CURIOSITIES of GREAT BRITAIN.

ENGLAND & WALES

Delineated.

Historical, Entertaining & Commercial.

Alphabetically arranged

By Thomas Dugdale. Antiquarian.

assisted by WILLIAM BURNETT.civil engineer.
—1835—

Drawn by J. Satmon     Engraved by E. Mansill
KNARESBOROUGH CASTLE.
Drawn & Engraved for Dugdales England & Wales Delineated.

Drawn by J. Marchant.    Engraved by D. Buckle.
THEBERTON HOUSE THE SEAT of THO.^S GIBSON ESQ.
Drawn & Engraved for Dugdales England & Wales Delineated.

CITY OF DURHAM,
DURHAM.
Drawn & Engraved for Dugdales England & Wales Delineated.

THE QUEEN'S PALACE, PIMLICO.
MIDDLESEX.
The birth place of The Prince of Wales, born, Nov.^r 9. 1841, also of the Princess Royal, born. Nov.^r 21, 1840.
Drawn & Engraved for Dugdales England & Wales Delineated.

WESTMINSTER ABBEY.
Drawn & Engraved for Dugdales England & Wales Delineated.

YORK.
OLD BRIDGE OVER THE RIVER FOSS.

PENRICE CASTLE.
GLAMORGANSHIRE
Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.

TRETWR.
BRECKNOCKSHIRE.
Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.

NEW POST OFFICE.
S^t. Martins le-Grand
LONDON.
Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.

NEW ROYAL EXCHANGE.
LONDON.
Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.

DUNSTABLE PRIORY CHURCH,
(WEST FRONT.)
BEDFORDSHIRE.
Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.

PLYMOUTH SOUND.
FROM MOUNT EDGCOMBE.

MANERBEER CASTLE,
PEMBROKESHIRE.
Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.

West Tower of
GOODRICH CASTLE,
HEREFORDSHIRE.
Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.

Drawn & Engraved by J. Grey
CARLISLE CASTLE,
CUMBERLAND.
Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.

BANK OF ENGLAND.
LONDON.

CITY OF BRISTOL,
GLOUCESTERSHIRE AND SOMERSETSHIRE.
Among the numerous distinguished individuals to whom Bristol has had the honour of giving birth, are Lilly, Chatterton, M^rs. Mary Robinson, M^rs. Hannah More, Southey, Sebastian Cabot, the first discoverer of the continent of America, & many others.

KNARESBOROUGH CASTLE,
YORKSHIRE.
About a mile down the river from this Castle, is S^t. Robert's Cave, the scene of the murder committed by Eugene Aram, which was discovered thirteen years afterwards.

BATTERSEA BRIDGE.
SURREY.
Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.

BATTLE ABBEY.
SUSSEX.
Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.

LLANTHONEY ABBEY.
MONMOUTHSHIRE.
Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.

COWBRIDGE,
GLAMORGANSHIRE.
Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.

VALE OF TAFF.
Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.

LAUGHARNE CASTLE,
CAERMARTHENSHIRE.
Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.

RUNNEY MEAD, OR MAGNA CHARTA ISLAND.
NEAR EGHAM, SURREY.
This place is celebrated in history as the spot where the assembled barons in 1215, obtained from King John, the grant of Magna Charta.

KIRKSTALL ABBEY, NEAR LEEDS.
YORKSHIRE.
Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.

GOLDSMITH'S HALL.
FOSTER LANE, CHEAPSIDE, LONDON.
Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.

MIDDLESEX HOSPITAL.
Charles Street Mary-le-bone.
This Hospital was instituted for sick & lame patients in 1745. The present substantial building was completed in 1835.

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ENGLAND & WALES

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ENGLAND & WALES
With its Railroads & Canals.

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BEDFORDSHIRE.

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BERKSHIRE.

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BUCKINGHAMSHIRE.

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CAMBRIDGESHIRE

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CHESHIRE

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CORNWALL.

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CUMBERLAND.

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DERBYSHIRE.

CURIOSITIES OF GREAT BRITAIN.

ENGLAND AND WALES DELINEATED:

HISTORICAL, ENTERTAINING, AND COMMERCIAL.

[A] ABBERBURY, or Alberbury, a parish and township, partly in the hundreds of Cawrse and Deythur, in the county of Montgomery, and partly in that of Ford, in the county of Salop. Warine, sheriff of this county in the reign of Henry I., founded an abbey for black monks, a cell to Guardmont, in Limosin, which, at the suppression of alien priories was bestowed by Henry VI. upon the college founded by Archbishop Chiechley. Benthall, Eyton, Rowton, Amaston, and Wollaston, are all townships of this parish. At Glyn, in this parish, is the celebrated Old Parr's cottage and birth-place, who lived in the reigns of ten kings and queens. Old Parr's cottage, which has undergone but little alteration since his time; it is timber-framed, rare, and picturesque, within view of Rodney's Pillar on Bredden Hill, in Montgomeryshire. In Wollaston Chapel is a brass plate, with his portrait thus inscribed: "The old, old, very old man, Thomas Parr, was born at the Glyn, in the township of Wennington, within the chapelry of Great Wollaston, and parish of Alberbury, in the county of Salop, in 1483. He lived in the reigns of ten kings and queens of England, viz. King Edward IV., King Edward V., King Richard III., King Henry VII., King Henry VIII., King Edward VI., Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, King James I., and Charles I.; he died in London, (sixteen years after his presentation to Did penance at the age of 105. King Charles,) on the 13th of November, 1635, and was buried in Westminster Abbey, on the 15th of the same month, aged one hundred and fifty-two years and nine months. At the age of one hundred and five, he did penance in the church of Alberbury, for criminal connexion with Catherine Milton, by whom he had offspring."

[B] ABBEY-HOLM is a small town in the ward of Allerdale. The original consequence of this little town was derived from an abbey of Cistercian monks, founded here, about the twelfth century, by Henry I. of England, as the crown rolls imply. Its benefactors were many in number, and by the magnificent grants and privileges with which it was endowed, it acquired so much importance, that during the reigns of Edward I. and II. its abbots, though not mitred, were frequently summoned to sit in parliament. The abbey was pillaged and burnt during the incursion of Robert Bruce, but afterwards rebuilt with great magnificence; few vestiges, however, of its monastic buildings now remain. From the ruins the Parochial Chapel was formed, and there yet stands a part of the church in its original form. During the reign of Henry VIII. the abbey was chiefly dilapidated; the church continued in good condition till the year 1600, when the steeple, one hundred and fourteen feet high, suddenly fell down, and by its fall destroyed great part of the chancel. Its total ruin was nearly accomplished by an accidental fire five years afterwards. This fire took place on April 18, The Abbey destroyed by the accidental firing of a daw's nest. 1604, and was occasioned by a servant carrying a live coal into the roof of the church, to search for an iron chisel; the boisterous wind blew the coal out of his hand into a daw's nest, by which the whole was ignited, and within less than three hours it consumed both the body of the chancel and the whole church, except the south side of the low church, which was saved by means of a stone vault. Almost due-west from Abbey-Holm, in a strong situation near the sea coast, are some remains of Wulstey Castle, a fortress, which was erected by the abbots to secure their treasures, books, and charters from the sudden depredations of the Scots. "In this castle," observes Camden, "tradition reports, that the magic works of Sir Michael Scot (or Scotus), Michael Scot, the magician. were preserved, till they were mouldering into dust. He professed a religious life here about the year 1290, and became so versed in the mathematics, and other abstruse sciences, that he obtained the character of a magician, and was believed, in that credulous age, to have performed many miracles." The story of Michael Scot forms a beautiful episode in Scott's "Lay of the Last Minstrel," the notes to which furnish some curious information respecting that extraordinary personage. Sir Michael Scot, of Balwearie, we are told, flourished during the thirteenth century, and was one of the ambassadors sent to bring the Maid of Norway to Scotland, upon the death of Alexander III. Scottish legends. His memory survives in many a legend; and in the south of Scotland, any work of great labour and antiquity is ascribed either to the agency of auld Michael, of Sir William Wallace, or the devil. The following are amongst the current traditions concerning Michael Scot:—He was chosen, it is said, to go upon an embassy, to obtain from the King of France satisfaction for certain piracies committed by his subjects upon those of Scotland. Instead of preparing a new equipage and splendid retinue, he evoked a fiend in the shape of a huge black horse, mounted The fiend horse. upon his back, and forced him to fly through the air towards France. When he arrived at Paris, he tied his horse to the gate of the palace, and boldly delivered his message. An ambassador with so little of the pomp and circumstance of diplomacy was not received with much respect, and the king was about to return a contemptuous refusal to his demand, when Michael besought him to suspend his resolution till he had seen his horse stamp three times: the first stamp shook every steeple in Paris, and caused all the bells to ring; the second threw down three of the towers of the palace; and the infernal steed had French King's concession. lifted up his hoof to give the third stamp, when the king rather chose to dismiss Michael, with the most ample concessions, than to stand to the probable consequences. Another time, it is said that, while residing at the tower of Oakwood, upon the Ettrick, about three miles above Selkirk, having heard of the fame of a sorceress, called the Witch of The witch of Falsehope. Falsehope, who lived on the opposite side of the river, Michael went one morning to put her skill to the test, but was disappointed by her positively denying any knowledge of the necromantic art. In his discourse with her, he laid his wand inadvertently on the table which the hag observing, suddenly snatched it up and struck him with it. Feeling the force of the charm, he rushed out of the house; but as it had conferred on him the external appearance of a hare, his servant, who waited without, hallooed upon the discomfited wizard his own greyhounds, and pursued him so close, that, in order to obtain a moment's breathing to reverse the charm, Michael, after a very fatiguing course, was fain to take refuge in his own common sewer.

[A] ABBOTS BROMLEY. The hobby-horse dance, an ancient custom, was observed here till the civil war.—Ten or twelve of the dancers carried, on their shoulders, deers' heads, painted with the arms of Paget, Hobby-horse dance Bagot, and Welles, to whom the chief property of the town belonged. The horns yet hang up in the church, but the custom is now discontinued. The parish includes Bromley, Bagot's liberty, and Bromley Hurst township. Bagot's park is the deer-park of Lord Bagot, whose seat is at Blithefield.

[B] ABBOTSBURY consists of a single parish, divided into three streets, nearly in the form of the letter Y, lying in a valley surrounded and protected by bold hills near the sea. There is a tradition that this Tradition of St. Peter place was called Abodesbyry by St. Peter himself, in the infancy of Christianity, but it is more probably supposed to have derived its name from the magnificent abbey, originally founded here, in the early part of the eleventh century. The ruins of the abbey (which was once large and splendid, but is now nearly demolished), consist of a large barn, a A ruined abbey. stable, supposed to have been the dormitory, a porch which belonged to the conventual church, the principal entrance, a portion of the walls, and two buildings conjectured to have been used for domestic purposes. The barn, which, when entire, was the largest in the county, is now so dilapidated, that only a part of it can be used. The church, in which Orcus and his wife, the founders, were buried, is, with the exception of the porch and a pile of ruins under some neighbouring elms, totally destroyed; but the numerous chantries and chapels which belonged to it sufficiently prove its ancient magnificence. On an eminence, at a short distance from the town, stands a small building called St. Catherine's St. Catherine's chapel, a sea mark. Chapel, which is supposed to have been erected about the time of Edward IV., and which from its height and lofty situation, serves both for a sea and land mark. Abbotsbury Church appears to have been built a short time before the reformation; the pulpit is pierced by musket balls, said to have been fired by Cromwell's soldiers, at the officiating minister, whom, however, they missed. But it is more likely to have occurred at the time of Sir Anthony Astley Cooper's attack on the royalists, at the siege of Sir John Strangeway's house, in 1651. About Wild fowl decoy, and swannery. a mile to the south-west of Abbotsbury, is the "decoy," where great quantities of wild fowl are annually taken. But the object which most engages the attention of strangers, in the neighbourhood of this town, is the celebrated "swannery," which, not long since, was the property of the Earl of Ilchester. In the open or broad space of the fleet are kept six or seven hundred swans, formerly one thousand five hundred, including hoppers—a small species of swans, who feed and range, and return home again.

[A] ABBOTTS LANGLEY. Before the Conquest, and till the dissolution of the monasteries, this place was in the possession of the abbots of St. Albans. About the time of Henry I., Nicholas Breakspear, Englishman made Pope. a native of this place, was advanced to the rank of cardinal, and at length became pope, by the title of Adrian IV.; being the only Englishman that ever attained that dignity. He died, not without suspicion of poison, in 1158.

[B] ABER (which signifies the mouth of a river, port, or harbour) is situated on the river Gwyngregyr, which here discharges itself into the Irish Sea. The native Welsh princes had a palace at this place, some remains of which are shewn as the residence of Llewelyn ap Ferry to Anglesea. Griffith. It is one of the ferries to Anglesea, and a convenient place from which to visit the formidable Penmaen Mawr mountain. The passage from hence across the Laven Sands to Beaumaris is by no means safe, as the sands frequently shift; but the large bell of this Laven sands dangerous. The bell constantly tolled in foggy weather. village is constantly rung in foggy weather, in the hope that its sound may serve to direct those whom imperious necessity obliges to cross under all disadvantages. Two miles from this pleasing village, following the banks of the stream, which flows through highly picturesque scenery, there is a most romantic glen, and a very fine waterfall; the upper part Romantic glen, and waterfall. of this cataract is sometimes broken into three or four divisions, by the rugged force of the impending cliff, but the lower one forms a broad sheet, and descends about sixty feet, in a very grand style.

[C] ABERAVON is situated at the mouth of the river Avon, on Swansea Bay, and has a harbour for small vessels. Although no charter exists for a market, one has been held here, more than a century past. There is a ridiculous belief, amongst the people of this place, that every Christmas Day, and that day alone, a large salmon presents himself Singular account of a Salmon. in the river, and allows himself to be caught and handled by any one who chooses; but it would be considered an act of impiety to detain him.

[D] ABERCONWAY is an ancient fortified town, beautifully situated upon the estuary of the river Conway. The town is nearly of a triangular shape, and is thought by some to have been the Conovium of The Conovium of the Romans. the Romans. The annals of this place commence no earlier than with the history of its castle, which was erected in 1284, by command of Edward I., as a security against the insurrections of the Welsh. Soon after its erection, the royal founder was besieged in it, and the garrison almost reduced by famine to surrender, when they were extricated by the arrival of a fleet with provision. At the commencement of the civil wars, it was garrisoned on behalf of the king, by Dr. John Williams, Archbishop of York. In 1645 he gave the government of the castle to his nephew, William Hookes. Two years after, Prince Rupert superseded the Archbishop in the command of North Wales. He endeavoured to obtain redress from the king, but failed. Enraged at this injury, he joined Mytton, and assisted in the reduction of the place. The town was taken by storm, August 15, 1646, but the castle did not Town taken by storm, in 1646. surrender till November 10. This fortress remained in tranquillity till a grant was made of it, by King Charles, to the Earl of Conway and Kilulta; when he had scarcely obtained possession, before he ordered an agent to remove the timber, iron, lead, and other materials. It was held on lease, by Owen Holland, Esq. from the crown, at an annual rent of six shillings and eightpence, and a dish of fish to Lord Holland, as Curious tenure—6s. 8d. and a dish of fish. often as he passed through the town. Thus, unprotected, it has suffered material injuries from wind and weather, and is reduced to a state of rapid decay. The ruins are remarkably picturesque, and very extensive. The town was surrounded by high massive walls, twelve feet thick, strengthened at intervals by twenty-four circular and semi-circular towers; these, with the four principal gateways, remain in tolerable preservation. There are scarcely any remains of the Cistercian Cistercian Abbey, founded by Llewelyn ap Jorwerth in 1185. Abbey, founded by Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, in 1185. The church contains a few modern monuments, belonging to the family of the Wynnes, formerly of this place. The font appears ancient; it is composed of black marble, curiously carved, and supported by a cluster of pilasters, standing upon a pedestal. In Castle Street is a very old house, called the college, which has a singular window, decorated with several coats of arms of the Stanley family. A day school is also kept in an ancient mansion, called Plas Mawr, situated near the market place, which was erected in 1585, by Robert Wynne, Esq. of Gwyder. The river Conway rises out of Llyn Conway, at the south extremity of the county, in the mountains of Penmachno. The ferry is of importance, as it lies upon one of the great roads from London to Ireland, but is justly considered a dangerous The ferry considered dangerous; loss of the Irish mail and 14 passengers, in 1806. passage, and many are the accidents which have occurred. On Christmas Day, 1806, the boat conveying the Irish mail coach, was lost, and all the passengers, including the coachman and guard, were drowned, except two. At the Ferry-house a noble bay is formed where the tide enters the river. In this view, indeed, there are all the ingredients of a sublime and beautiful landscape. Few rivers, in England or Wales, in so short a course as twenty-nine miles, present so great a variety of beautiful scenery. Below Luna Hall, the falls of the Conway exhibit Falls of the Conway present a noble cataract, shooting from a solid rock. a noble cataract, about fifty feet; the stream of water, shooting directly from one aperture in the solid rock to a considerable distance, descends into a rocky basin, surrounded by hanging woods. One mile below this town, at Trefriw, the river becomes navigable, and contributes to the supply of the surrounding county. In Conway town there still exists Pearl fishery and suspension bridge. a pearl fishery, and a chain suspension bridge has been recently erected in lieu of a dangerous ferry. The vale of Conway teems with interesting objects. Upon the west side is the abrupt termination of the Snowdon chain, down the declivities of which, through innumerable chasms, fissures, and channels, rush the superfluous waters of the lakes above, to mingle with the parent ocean. The principal employment of the poor, in this neighbourhood, is gathering the different species of fuci, commonly Manufactory of barilla. called sea-wreck, thrown up by the tide, or growing upon the breakers. This wreck they put into a kind of square fireplace, made upon the sand, and heat it till it becomes a liquid and forms a cake; when further baked or burnt it resembles cinders, and is called barilla or impure fossil alkali; in this state it is sold to manufacturers of soap and glass.

[B] ABEREDWY. This delightful village derived its name from its situation, near the junction of the River Wye and Edwy. Nothing in nature can exceed the beauty of the neighbouring scenery. The Edwy descends through lofty walls of rock; in some places, broken into crags, which frightfully overhang the abyss. Near the place are the ruins of a castle, the retreat of the last native Welsh Prince, Llewelyn ap Ruined castle—the retreat of Llewelyn, the last native Prince of Wales. Gruffydd. The object of Llewelyn's journey to Aberedwy was to consult the chief persons of the district, upon the best means of successfully opposing the King of England, then invading Wales. On his arrival he found himself disappointed. Instead of meeting with friends, he was surrounded by the enemy. Edmund Mortimer and John Gyfford, acquainted with his route, marched from Herefordshire, with their troops to meet him. The enemy were numerous—resistance was in vain—Llewelyn withdrew to Builth. The mountains being covered with snow, he caused the shoes of his horse to be reversed, in order to His horses shoes reversed. baffle pursuit, but the treacherous smith betrayed him. Llewelyn broke down the bridge of Builth, but was closely followed by the English forces, who fruitlessly attempted to gain it. Sir Elias Walwyn Betrayed by his smith. crossed the river, with a detachment, about eight miles below, at a place called Little Tom's Ferry Boat, and coming unexpectedly on the Welsh army, routed them. Llewelyn himself was attacked and slain, unarmed, in a narrow valley, not two hundred yards from the scene of action. Adam Francton, the murderer of Llewelyn, took no notice of His army routed, and himself slain. his victim, but joined in the pursuit of the Welsh. Returning with the view of plundering the slain, he discovered the wounded person was no other than the Prince of Wales; for on stripping him, he found a letter in cipher and his privy seal. The brutal Francton, overjoyed that the Welsh prince had fallen into his hands, cut off his head, and sent His head sent to the King of England. it to the King of England, and thus perished the last native Prince of Wales.

[C] ABERFORD is situated upon the River Cock, on the great northern road, on the banks of which river was fought the famous battle of Towton, in 1461, so called from a village in the vicinity. The town consists of a long straggling street, in the north of which are the remains of a Norman Here the famous battle of Towton was fought. fortification, called Castle Carey; and the whole is in the line of the ancient Roman road. This town is curiously situated, as respects township: the west side is in Aberford-cum-Parlington; the east of the same end is Lotherton-cum-Aberford, and the north of the river is Aberford alone.

[D] ABERGAVENNY, (the ancient Gobanium of the Romans,) and its Gobanium of the Romans. environs, have strong claims to the traveller's attention. Its castle and delightful terrace overlook the rich vale of Usk; its church, abounding in costly sculptured tombs, its beautifully variegated mountains, all conspire to render this place particularly attractive. This town was once fortified, and many portions of the work remain, particularly Tudor's Gate. Tudor's Gate. The western entrance is furnished with two portcullises, and remarkable for the beautifully composed landscape seen through it. The style of building which forms the remains of this fortress marks its origin to have been subsequent to the Norman epoch. Excursions are frequently made to Blaenavon Iron Works, about six miles distant, Blaenavon Iron Works. 4000 men employed. which employ upwards of four thousand men. The mountainous territory containing these mineral treasures of iron, was demised by the crown to the Earl of Abergavenny, and is held under a lease by Hill and Co. A principal excursion from Abergavenny is that which leads northwards to Llanthony Abbey, a majestic ruin, seated in Llanthony Abbey, a majestic ruin in the black mountains. a deep recess of the black mountains, at the very extremity of Monmouthshire. Abergavenny is a place of much resort, being the thoroughfare from the west of Wales to Bath, Bristol, and Gloucestershire. Its principal manufacture is flannel, and its annual fairs for cattle are well attended.

[A] ABERYSTWITH, a market town and seaport in the hundred of Glenaur Glynn, and also a township in the parish of Llanbadarn Vawr. It is situated at the confluence of the rivers Ystwith and Rhyddol, at which the former falls into the sea in the bay of Cardigan. The building of a castle, of which some vestiges remain, is attributed to Edward I. It stands on a craggy eminence projecting into the sea at the west of the town, and affords a magnificent view of the whole line of Welsh coast within the bay of Cardigan. The streets are steep and uneven.—The houses, which are principally formed of dark slate, present a very singular appearance. For some years past its celebrity, as a summer retreat and bathing-place, has been annually increasing, which is greatly Fine bathing place. contributed to by the beauty of the neighbourhood, and the commanding prospects around. The roads to it have been made excellent, and the customary amusements of plays and assemblies during the season add to the attractions for summer visitants. There was formerly a herring fishery, and the practice of fishing is still carried on with considerable advantage by the natives. About seven miles north of Aberystwith, on the sea coast, a considerable extent of land, has, by drainage, been Twelve miles of embankment. recovered; twelve miles of embankment have been formed; and two navigable cuts, with a road of three miles and a stone bridge completed.

[B] ABINGDON, at the very edge of the county of Berkshire, was called Shovesham, by the Anglo-Saxons, until the foundation of the Monastery of Benedictine monks. abbey, from which period it began to assume the name of Abbandeen, or the Town of the Abbey. This monastery, the monks of which were Benedictines, was founded by Cissa, an Anglo-Saxon monarch, in 675. During the reign of Alfred it was demolished by the Danes, and remained in ruins till King Edgar partly restored it, in 954. Ethelwold, the abbot at that time, erected and embellished the church, and his successors contributed to its increase. After the Conquest, the wealth and grandeur of the abbey were equal to any similar foundation in England. William the Conqueror kept Easter in the abbey, A.D. 1084; William the Conqueror kept Easter, and his son was educated here. Jeffery of Monmouth buried in the abbey. and here was educated his youngest son, Henry, surnamed Beauclerc, afterwards King Henry I., in whose reign, one of the most eminent characters who received sepulture within the abbey, was the celebrated Jeffery of Monmouth, author of the British History,—a work, from which some of our best poets have derived materials for their sublime compositions. Shakspeare's Lear, and Milton's Comus, were both supplied from Jeffery's history. He flourished in the reign of Henry I. Among the natives of Abingdon, whose talents have rendered their possessors eminent, was Sir John Mason, a statesman of the sixteenth century. His memory is the more worthy to be revered, because, from a very obscure origin, his genius and perseverance Sir J. Mason, born here—his father a cow-herd. advanced him to the rank of privy-counsellor, ambassador to France, and chancellor of the University of Oxford. His father was a cow-herd and his mother, sister to one of the abbey monks, who attended to his early tuition, and sent him to Oxford, where he became a fellow of All Souls' college. While in this situation, the liveliness of his temper occasioned him to be chosen to compliment Henry VIII. on his visit to the University, in the year 1523, which being executed in a most graceful manner, engaged the favour of the monarch, who promoted him to the honourable offices above-mentioned. He died in 1566, and was buried in St. Paul's cathedral.

[A] ACKWORTH is a parish and township, in the upper division of Osgold Cross Wapentake, nominally divided into higher and lower Quakers' school. Ackworth. It is celebrated for its Quakers' School, which was purchased in 1777, with eighty-five acres of land, from the trustees of the Foundling Hospital, and rendered a seminary for the children of the more humble class of Friends. The number of pupils, is one hundred and eighty boys, and one hundred and twenty girls.

[B] ACONBURY. At this place a nunnery of the order of St. Augustine was founded by Margery, wife of Walter de Lacey, in the reign Nunnery. of King John. The Cliffords were large benefactors to this house, which, at the dissolution, possessed £75. 7s. 6d. per annum. There are some remains yet standing, occupied as a farm house. On the summit of Aconbury Hill, a bold and extensive eminence, well wooded, and commanding a charming view over the adjacent county, are traces of a large encampment.

[C] ACTON BURNELL is celebrated for the remains of an ancient castle, founded by Robert Burnell, bishop of Bath and Wells, a man of eminent abilities, first treasurer, and afterwards chancellor of England, who was much employed by King Edward I. in Welsh affairs. He died at Berwick, in 1292, and was buried in the cathedral at Wells. The castle is a quadrangular building, with a square tower at each corner. The hall in which King Edward I. held his parliament, in 1283, was Edward I. held his parliament here in 1283. 183 feet long, by 41 broad, but the gable ends only remain. The Statutum de Mercatoribus enacted here, is from that circumstance better known as the Statute of Acton Burnell. The successor of the bishop, at the castle, was Sir Edward Burnell, son of Philip Burnell and Maud, daughter of Richard Arundel. He served in many actions in Scotland, under Edward I., and always appeared in great splendour, attended by a chariot decked with banners of his arms. He was summoned to parliament from the fifth to the eighth year of Edward the second's reign, and died in 1315. In 1346, the castle came into the possession of Nicholas Lord Burnell, who died in 1382, and is buried in the church under an altar tomb, inlaid with his effigy in brass. In the reign of Henry VI. the Lovell Lord Burnell's effigy in brass on the altar tomb. family were in possession of this estate, which was forfeited by Lord Lovell, in consequence of his adherence to King Richard III. Henry VII. being seated on the throne, granted Acton Burnell, together with other estates in this county, to Jasper Tudor, Earl of Bedford; after whose death it reverted to the crown, and Henry VIII. granted it to Thomas Howard, Earl of Surrey, distinguished for his valour at the battle of Flodden. Sir Humphrey Lee, of Langley, in this parish, was created a baronet, May 3, 1620. Acton Burnell Park is now the residence of Sir Edward Joseph Smythe, Bart. whose family have been seated here from the time of Charles II., when Sir Edward Smythe, of Esh, in Durham, The seat of Sir E.J. Smythe. created a baronet, Feb. 23, 1660, married the daughter and heiress of Sir Richard Lee, Bart. of Langley. The mansion, on a verdant lawn, bordered by a shrubbery, presents a handsome elevation of fine white stone, having a noble Ionic portico, under which is the carriage entrance. Behind the house is the deer park, on a finely wooded eminence, affording one of the most beautiful prospects in the county. The chapelry of Ruckley and Langley is in this parish.

[A] ADDINGTON is on the borders of Kent. Addington Place, a seat erected by Alderman Trecothick, in 1772, was purchased in 1807, for the residence of the Archbishop of Canterbury. The manor of Addington is held by the feudal service of finding a man to make a mess, called Gerout, in the king's kitchen, at the coronation, and serving it up in Coronation custom. his own person at Westminster Hall. In the reign of William the Conqueror, Addington appears to have been held by Tezelin, cook to the king, which accounts for the origin of the required culinary service. The Archbishop of Canterbury is now the claimant of the service alluded to. Near the village is a curious cluster of tumuli, or mounds Cluster of tumuli. of earth raised over the bodies of the slain, about twenty-five in number, of inconsiderable height. One of them is nearly forty feet in diameter, two are about half that size, and the rest very small.

[B] ADDLE. The church in this town is considered to be one of the most perfect specimens of Roman architecture remaining in England. In 1702, the traces of an ancient Roman town, with fragments of urns, Roman architecture. and of an aqueduct of stone were found in the adjacent moor.

[C] ADDLINGFLEET. A parish and township in the lower division of Osgold Cross, including the townships of Fockerby, Haldenby, and Eastoft. The village is situated very near the junction of the Trent with the Humber, the latter river being one of the largest in the kingdom, formed by the united waters of the Trent, Ouse, Derwent, Aire, and other minor streams. At this part it is about a mile broad, it is the Abus of Ptolemy. It runs towards the east, washing the port of Hull, where it receives the river called by the same name; from thence, taking a south-easterly direction, it expands itself into Boundary between Yorkshire and Lincolnshire. an estuary nearly seven miles across, and mingles with the German ocean. This river, which, with very few exceptions, receives all the waters of Yorkshire from the Ouse, and the greater part of those from the midland counties from the Trent, commands the inland navigation of very extensive and commercial parts of England; namely, those of the Mersey, Dee, Ribble, Severn, Thames, and Avon; it also forms the boundary between Yorkshire and Lincolnshire.

[A] ADLINGTON. Through this township runs the Leeds and Liverpool Canal. It contains several coal mines. Adlington Hall, the seat Seat of Sir. Robert Clayton, Bart. of Sir Robert Clayton, Bart., was rebuilt about 1780; it stands in a low situation, on the borders of an extensive park, and contains some very good pictures, amongst which is a head of Charles I., taken after death. Ellerbeck Hall is the seat of John Hodson, Esq. In this neighbourhood is Park Hall, the seat of R.P. German, Esq. The inhabitants of Adlington are chiefly employed in the cotton manufactories of the vicinity.

[B] ADWALTON formerly possessed a market which is now disused. On Adwalton Moor, a battle was fought, in 1642, between Battle fought here in 1642. the Earl of Newcastle, commanding for the king, and the parliamentary general, Lord Fairfax, in which the latter was defeated.

[C] St. AGNES is situated on the Bristol Channel. The town and parish, including a considerable mining district, is thickly strewed with the cottages of the miners. It is more frequently called Lighthouse Very high and strong light-house. Island, from a very high and strong light-house erected here, to warn the mariner from the rocks, which are more numerous about this than any other of the Scilly Islands. This building is upwards of sixty feet high, and stands on the most elevated ground. The light is produced by twenty-one parabolic reflectors of copper, plated with silver, and having each an argand lamp in its focus. The reflectors are disposed of in three clusters, of seven in each cluster, and the frame in which they are fixed stands perpendicularly to the horizon, on a shaft united to a machine below, which makes the whole revolve every two minutes. By this motion the light progressively sweeps the whole horizon; and by its gradual intermission and increase, it is readily distinguished from any other. Its brilliancy is also extraordinary; and by these combined efforts its benefits are greatly increased, as the seaman is at once rendered completely sensible of his situation. This light was designed by the ingenious Mr. Adam Walker, (lecturer on natural and experimental philosophy,) under whose inspection it was constructed. The light-house itself is of stone, and was erected, as appears from an inscription over the door, by Captain Hugh Till, and Captain Simon Bayley, in the year 1680. The charges attending the light are defrayed by the Trinity House. At St. Agnes is a pilchard St. Agnes' beacon. fishery. St. Agnes' Beacon, six hundred and sixty-four feet above the level of the sea, is formed out of an ancient cairn, or tumulus of stones; near which, a summer-house has been built, from whence is a fine view of St. Ives, and an extensive sea prospect. Near the same spot is St. Agnes' Well, of which many miraculous stories are in circulation, from its presumed holy and sanative properties.

This place gave birth to John Opie, whose persevering genius Birthplace of John Opie, the painter. advanced him to the highest rank in his profession. He was born at Harmony Cot, in May 1761. The opening years of his existence indicated that he must plod through life in the dull occupation of a carpenter, as successor to his father and grandfather. He distinguished himself at a very early period, for originality and strength of mind, and at twelve years of age commenced an evening school in St. Agnes, teaching arithmetic and writing, and reckoning amongst his scholars some who had nearly doubled his years. His first humble attempts at First attempts at portrait painting. portrait painting were with a smutty stick, against the white-washed wall of his paternal cottage, where he exhibited, in dark colours, very striking likenesses of the whole family. His next step was to draw with ochre on cartridge paper. He was apprenticed to his father, but from some unascertainable cause was turned over to a sawyer; and it was literally in the bottom of a saw-pit that Dr. Walcot, better known by the appellation of Peter Pindar, (who had previously seen and admired some of Opie's rude drawings,) first beheld this untutored Genius fostered by Dr. Walcot. child of genius, under whose patronage he was protected, and his fame promoted. After visiting Exeter, (where he was persuaded to change his surname, which originally was Hoppy, to that of Opie,) finding his success was commensurate with his abilities, it was soon determined they should be brought to act in a wider sphere; and, in 1780, the Doctor and his pupil repaired to London, where not agreeing as to the mode of living together, they separated, and although their attachment had been cemented by long-continued kindness, subsequently to Anecdotes of Opie. this period, yet they were never after cordially united. The opinion Opie entertained of the services which he had received from the Doctor, may be gathered from the following curious note of hand, which was said to be in the possession of the latter: "I promise to paint, for Dr. Walcot, any picture or pictures, he may demand, as long as I live; otherwise, I desire the world will consider me as a ... ungrateful son of a ..., John Opie." It is not certain that he ever deviated from this voluntary obligation, but it is matter of pleasant remark, that he always made his friend pay eighteen-pence for the canvass! Opie was as fortunate in Introduction to the King. London as he had been at Exeter. To Pindar, however, he was indebted for his introduction to public notice. Through him his pictures were shown to Mrs. Boscawen, by whom Opie was introduced to the late Mrs. Delaney, who procured for him the notice of King George III. An opportunity was contrived for the royal family to see his picture of the The Old Beggar Man; soon after which, Opie was honoured with a command to repair to Buckingham House. The artist's account of this interview was given in the following characteristical manner to Walcot, who has often been heard to relate it with great humour. "There was Mr. West," said Opie, "in the room, Opie's relation of his interview with royalty. and another gentleman. First, her majesty came in; and I made a sad mistake in respect to her, till I saw her face, and discovered by her features that she was the queen. In a few minutes his majesty came hopping in. I suppose," said Opie, "because he did not wish to frighten me. He looked at the pictures and liked them; but he whispered to Mr. West—'tell the young man I can only pay a gentleman's Royal economy. price for them.'" The picture which his majesty bought was that of A Man Struck by Lightning. The price given was £10, with which Opie returned to the Doctor full of spirits. His friend, when he heard the story, said, "Why, John, thou hast only got £8. for thy picture." "Indeed, but I have though," cried Opie, "for I have got the £10. safe in my pocket." On this he showed him the money. "Aye," rejoined the Doctor, "but dost thou know his majesty has got the frame for nothing, and that is worth £2." "D—- it, so he has," cried Opie—"I'll go back and knock at the door, and ask for the frame; D—- it, I will." He was actually about to put his resolve into execution, till dissuaded by the Doctor. Popularity naturally followed this notice of royalty. The ladies, however, soon deserted him, as his likenesses were not flattering; for where Nature had been niggardly, Opie refused to be liberal. He afterwards became better acquainted with the art of pleasing them; a change which has been attributed to Mrs. Opie, who used to stand over him, and endeavour to make him sensible of the graces of the female form. It was in the year 1786, First known as an exhibitor at Somerset House, 1786. that Mr. Opie became known as an exhibitor at Somerset House; soon after which he aspired to academical honours, and ultimately attained the rank of Royal Academician, and afterwards succeeded Fuseli, in the professorship of painting. He was twice married, but at what period his first hymeneal union occurred we are not informed—it was inauspicious. His second marriage, which took place on May 8, 1798, was more fortunate; and in the society of the late Mrs. Opie, the amiable author of many beautiful and interesting literary compositions, he enjoyed a delightful relief from the toilsome duties of his profession. Mr. Opie was in the daily acquisition of wealth and fame, and rapidly advancing to the very zenith of popularity, when his mortal career was suddenly closed by death, on Thursday, April 9, 1807, in the Died in 1807. forty-sixth year of his age. "As a portrait painter he has great claims to praise, particularly in his men, which are firm, bold, and freely delineated, and occasionally well coloured. His women are heavy, inelegant, and chiefly accompanied with a hardness that destroys all beauty."

[A] St. ALBANS is situated on the river Ver, or Muss, and consists of three parishes; parts of two of which, extend beyond the limits of the Originally the British metropolis. borough. It is said to have been the site of the ancient British metropolis of Cassibelanus, and is very near that of the ancient Roman Verulam, mentioned by Tacitus, being the same as the Saxon Watlingceaster, so called because seated on the road called Watling-street. It was here that Queen Boadicea made her celebrated assault on the Romans, and failed, after an immense slaughter of seventy thousand men. In 795, Offa, king of Mercia, erected an abbey here, in memory of St. Alban, the British protomartyr, who was born here in the third century. He served in the Roman army, but was converted to Christianity by a monk, named Amphilabus, and suffered during the Dioclesian persecution, A.D. 303. The abbey subsequently obtained great privileges, and became very rich, the revenues at the dissolution amounting to upwards of £2500. per annum. Monastic foundations had their origin in this country, about the time of St. Augustine, who came from Rome, to convert the Pagan Saxons to Christianity; and when Offa ascended the throne of Mercia, about twenty great monasteries had been founded in England, and about the same number of episcopal sees established. Offa's zeal prompted him to do what many of his crowned predecessors King Offa's extraordinary vision, which induced him to build the abbey. had done; but being undetermined whom to select as the patron saint of his establishment, it is recorded that, while at the city of Bath, an angel appeared to him in the silence of the night, desiring him to raise out of the earth the body of Alban, the first British martyr, and place his remains in a suitable shrine. Even the memory of Alban had been lost for three hundred and forty years; but the king assembling his clergy and people at Verulam, an active search was made for his body with prayer, fasting, and alms; when it is said a ray of light was seen by all to stand over the place of burial, similar to the star that conducted the magi to Bethlehem. The ground was therefore opened, and, in the presence of the king, the body of Alban was found. Offa is said to have placed a golden circle round the head of the St. Alban's body found after a lapse of 494 years; a golden circle placed round his head. deceased, with an inscription, to signify his name and title, and immediately caused the remains of the saint to be conveyed to a small chapel, without the walls of Verulam, as the town was then called, until a more noble edifice could be raised for its reception. This is said to have occurred on the 1st day of August, 791, four hundred and ninety-four years after the martyrdom of Alban. Offa afterwards made a journey to Rome, and obtained the desired privileges of his intended foundation, with great commendations for his zeal and piety, from the pope, when he undertook to build a stately church and monastery, to the memory of St. Alban. From this abbey the town originated, which early obtained considerable importance. The abbey church, which claims particular attention for its size, beauty, and antiquity, is constructed of Roman brick, to which age has given the appearance of stone. A stone screen, erected before the communion table, in 1461, is much admired for the richness and lightness of its sculpture. The tombs of the founder, Offa, and that of Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, are shown here; and, not Duke of Gloucester's body found nearly entire. many years ago, the leaden coffin, containing the body of the latter, was opened, and the corpse found nearly entire. The Roman antiquities discovered on the site have been very numerous. The effect of the venerable abbey, when seen from a distance, is extremely imposing; situated upon an eminence, its massive towers rise majestically above the houses of the ancient town, which is well, known to have derived its first importance from the Romans, since which, it has increased chiefly under the protecting influence of successive abbots of this rich and powerful monastery. The prospect of its mouldering ruins, forces upon the mind a melancholy train of reflection on the instability of all human institutions.

[A] ALCESTER is situated at the confluence of the two small rivers, Alne and Arrow, having a bridge over each. It is supposed to have been a Roman station; Roman coins, urns, and similar relics, A Roman station. having been frequently found here. The Roman way of Icknield Street also passed through it, and from its situation it is deemed the Alana of Richard of Cirencester. It was anciently a borough by prescription, Many relics of antiquity found. and of some note in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, when it became the property of the Beauchamps, and afterwards of the Grevilles. The church is a fine gothic structure; the market is well supplied with corn; and the manufacture of needles is very extensive. Here is a Free School, founded by Walter Newport, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and various alms-houses and small charities, originating in different benefactors. Traces of the site of Traces of an abbey founded by King Stephen. an abbey, founded in the reign of King Stephen, to the north of the town, are still visible.

[D] ALDEBURGH is pleasantly situated in the valley of Slaughton, and bounded on the eastern side by the sea, which has made considerable encroachments, and nearly washed a street away. The river Ald runs on the south side, and forms a convenient quay. The town is mean in construction, and chiefly inhabited by fishermen and seafaring people. Soles, lobsters, and other fish are abundant. It is remarkable as the birth-place of the late Rev. George Crabbe, emphatically styled Birth place of the Rev. George Crabbe, the poet. Biographical sketch of his life. the Poet of the Poor, who was born December 24, 1754. His father was an officer in the Customs, and at first gave him an education, merely suitable to follow the same pursuit; but when his prospects brightened, he removed his son to a classical seminary, where he was instructed for a surgeon and apothecary, to which profession he was in due time apprenticed, but relinquished all views of establishing himself in practice. At a very early period he became a versifier; and among his precocious attempts was a prize poem, on Hope, which was inserted in the Lady's Magazine, then published by Mr. Wheeble. Crabbe came to London, in 1778, with £3. in his Crabbe's arrival in London, 1778. pocket, and made versification his chief study. His first published work was The Candidate, a poem, in quarto, which came into the world anonymously, in 1780, and was favourably received. A short time afterwards, his poverty and poetry induced him to seek the His first published work well received. patronage of Edmund Burke, to whom he submitted a large quantity of miscellaneous composition; he had no introduction to Mr. Burke, excepting his own letter, stating his circumstances; no recommendation but his distress, and yet his application was attended with success. His patron introduced him to some of the first men in the country, and soon after became the means of benefiting his fame and fortune; he selected from young Crabbe's works, The Library and The Village, suggesting at the same time certain corrections and improvements. Among the eminent persons to whom he was thus introduced, was the Right Hon. Charles James Fox, Sir Joshua Reynolds, at whose mansion he first Crabbe's introduction to eminent persons. beheld, and was made known to, Dr. Johnson, who gave the young poet his opinion of The Village. Mr. Burke having directed Mr. Crabbe's views to the church, in 1781 he was ordained a deacon by the Bishop of Norwich, and priest by the same dignitary in the following year; he was next appointed domestic chaplain to the Duke of Rutland at Belvoir Castle. As Mr. Crabbe had not received a university education, he was offered a degree by Trinity College, Cambridge, but eventually received the grant from the Archbishop of Canterbury, at Lambeth, and thus became a Bachelor of Laws. Burke also Promoted to the church. introduced Mr. Crabbe to Lord Chancellor Thurlow, who presented him to rectories in Dorset and Lincoln consecutively. He had previously a curacy at Strathorn, a village near Belvoir Castle, where he married and became a father; he was universally respected for his talents and virtues, and died at Trowbridge, at seven o'clock in the morning of Died at Trowbridge 1132. the 8th of February, 1832. The publications of Mr. Crabbe have placed him high on the roll of British Poets.

[B] ALDINGTON. Elizabeth Barton, commonly called the Holy Maid of Kent, a religious impostor, lived in the reign of Henry VIII. She was a servant at Aldington, and having been for a long The History of the Holy Maid of Kent. time afflicted with convulsions, which distorted her limbs and countenance, and threw her body into the most violent agitations, acquired a power of counterfeiting the same appearances whenever she pleased. Richard Master, who then held this living, with other ecclesiastics, thinking her a proper instrument for their purpose, induced her to pretend that all she said and did, was by a supernatural impulse, and taught her to act her part in the most perfect manner. Thus she pretended to be honoured with visions; to hear heavenly voices and most ravishing melody; she declaimed against the wickedness of the times, against heresy and innovations; exhorting all persons to frequent the church, to hear masses, to make frequent confessions, and to pray to our lady, and all saints. This artful management, with her apparent piety, virtue, and austerity of life, completely deceived even Sir Thomas More, Bishop Fisher, and Archbishop Warham, the last of which appointed commissioners to examine her, to whom she was instructed to say, in her counterfeit trances, that she should never recover till she went to visit the image of the Virgin Mary, in a chapel dedicated to her in this parish, which was done. After that she pretended that she was called to be a nun, and the Archbishop being fully satisfied with the reports, had her placed in the nunnery of St. Sepulchre, Canterbury, Holy Maid of Kent. where she alleged she had visions and revelations of a divine nature, so as to completely impose upon the public. The main object of the priests, her managers, was directed publicly to announce how God had revealed to her, "that in case the king should divorce Queen Catherine of Anjou, and take another wife during her life, his royalty would not be of a month's duration, but that he should die the death of a villain," which created considerable excitement, and much controversy: encouraged by the lenity of the government, the ecclesiastics in this conspiracy, resolved to publish the revelations of the nun throughout the kingdom. They had communicated them to the Pope's Ambassadors, and exhorted Queen Catherine to persist in her resolutions. At length this The imposture detected. confederacy became a serious affair, and Henry ordered the maid and her accomplices to be examined in the Star Chamber, where they confessed all the particulars of the imposture; and afterwards, upon a scaffold erected at Paul's Cross, were compelled to hear their confession publicly read; they were confined in the Tower until the meeting of parliament, by whom the whole affair was pronounced to be a conspiracy against the king's life, and crown. The nun, and her confederates, were Herself and confederates executed at Tyburn. eventually attainted of high treason, and executed at Tyburn, April 20th, 1534, where she confessed the imposture, laying the blame on her accomplices, the priests; craving pardon of God, and the King.

[A] ALDSTONE MOOR, in Leath Ward, is situated on the borders of Northumberland, in the most picturesque and romantic part of the Picturesque and Romantic scenery. county. The town itself stands upon a hill, at the bottom of which runs the river Tyne. The immediate vicinity abounds in lead-mines, on estates which once belonged to the Derwentwater family. On the attainder of the last earl, they were granted in aid of the support of Greenwich Hospital, from the trustees of which national institution, the mines are at present leased. Satin spar is found in this parish; there is also a pool on Gildersdale Fell, the slime of which is used for painting The slime of a pool use for painting yellow. yellow. About three miles from the town, are the earthworks of Whitley castle, where relics of antiquity have frequently been discovered.

[B] ALDWORTH is pleasantly situated on a hill: here was anciently a mansion belonging to the family of De La Beche, the site of which is now Beach Farm. In the churchyard is a remarkable yew-tree, the Remarkable yew-tree, nine yards round. trunk measuring nine yards in circumference, at upwards of four feet from the ground. The church is celebrated for its very ancient monuments, nine in number, disposed in enriched arches on each side, and Church celebrated for ancient monuments. in the centre of the interior; these are supposed to belong to the De La Beche family, and from the costume of the figures upon the tombs, may be referred to the fourteenth century; six of them are knights in armour; two are females, and one in the common habit of the time; some of the knights are represented lying cross-legged; these had vowed, or accompanied a crusade; the workmanship is excellent, and the attitude and expression of each of the figures that remain perfect, are exceedingly graceful, but several of the monuments are now considerably mutilated. The font is very ancient, and remarkably plain, but very capacious, and somewhat singular in its form.

[A] ALFRETON, is situated about two miles from the commencement of the moors, which extend so widely in this county. The town is Built by King Alfred. supposed to have been built by King Alfred, and to derive its name from him. The spot is shown where the house stood in which he lived. The inhabitants are principally employed in a stocking manufactory, and in the neighbouring collieries. Earthenware is also made in this place, and the Monday market, for corn, is considerable. In 700 Roman coins found here. Greenhill Lane, near this town, seven hundred Roman coins, were discovered by a labourer employed in repairing a fence.

[B] ALLERTON MAULEVERER, is situated in a very beautiful part of Yorkshire. The park now in the possession of Lord Stourton, consists of about four hundred acres, in which is a superb mansion; the land is Extensive park and mansion. very rich, and charmingly diversified by a variety of hills, dales, and groves, which are considerably enlivened, and receive much additional beauty, from a very fine expanse of water. An octagonal tower has Picturesque tower. been built on a lofty hill, finely shaded with trees; it consists of two rooms, and is approached by a double flight of steps, each of which, as well as the terrace around the building, are protected by iron palisades. From this commanding situation, all the various beauties of the park are seen to the greatest advantage, and many extensive and diversified prospects are enjoyed. Here was a priory of Benedictine Here was a Priory of Benedictine monks. monks, founded by Richard Mauleverer, in the reign of Henry II., which was dissolved about three centuries afterwards by King Henry VI. The manor was the seat of the Mauleverer family for more than five hundred years, when Sir Richard, the last heir, who died unmarried, left the estate by will to his mother, who, afterwards by marriage, conveyed it to the Arundel family, and from them it became the property of the Honourable, William Monkton Arundel, Viscount Galway, whose son, the late Lord Galway, sold it in the year 1786, to the late Duke of York, who afterwards occasionally resided in the park, with George IV., then Prince of Wales. The estate, comprising four thousand five hundred and twenty-five acres, was sold by the Royal Duke to Sale of the estate by the late Duke of York, for £110,000. Colonel Thornton, for £110,000; and was, in 1805, resold by that gentleman to the late Lord Stourton, father of the present proprietor. The mansion stands on a gentle elevation; it was erected by his Royal Highness the Duke of York, and has since been considerably improved.

[A] ALLINGTON. Situated in the hundred of Larkefield, in the lathe of Aylesford, near the river Medway. Allington Castle was originally built in the Saxon times, by a noble family denominated The castle. Columbary, but was razed afterwards by the Danes. The manor was given after the conquest to Bishop Odo, (in whose time there was Mansion given to Bishop Odo. a church at Allington,) and on his disgrace, to the great Earl Warrenne, who is stated to have had the castle rebuilt, which, however, seems to be doubtful, as the famous Sir Stephen Penchester, constable of Dover Castle, in the reign of Edward I., and then owner of this manor, had a license to fortify, and embattle, his mansion-house here. It passed afterwards to the Cobham family; and from them to the Brents, by whom it was alienated to Sir Henry Wyatt, a descendant from Sir Henry Wyatt deprived of seventeen manors and his liberty, for treason. a worthy Yorkshire family; who, besides losing seventeen manors, was deprived of his liberty for engaging in the plot against Richard III. in favour of the Earl of Richmond; but when success had crowned the attempts of the latter, he was released by the new king, knighted, made banneret, a knight of the bath, and a privy counsellor. He made this castle his residence; and here was born his accomplished son and successor, Sir Thomas Wyatt. This gentleman who was equally renowned, as a scholar, a soldier, and a statesman, (in consequence of which he was considered to be "the delight of the muses and mankind") made this a "fair seat," and was visited here by Henry VIII., Sir Thomas Wyatt, was an accomplished scholar, soldier and statesman. (as his father Sir Henry had also been,) with whom he was a great favourite; though he appears in some degree to have unintentionally excited his jealousy, through the admiration which his accomplishments had raised in the breast of the fascinating Anne Boleyn. He died in his thirty-eighth year, at Sherborne, in Dorsetshire, of a violent fever. His son Sir Thomas Wyatt, the younger, being deprived of his estates and life, for treason against Queen Mary, this castle and manor became vested in the crown, and were granted, on lease by Elizabeth, to John Astley Esq., master of her jewels, in her eleventh year. His son, Sir John Astley, afterwards had the whole granted to him by the queen's letters patent, dated in her twenty-sixth year, and from Parish consists of one house, a church, and a cottage. his family it was transferred to that of Lord Romney, and is now the property of the present earl. The remains of the castle are particularly curious and interesting, but give the idea rather of a fortified dwelling, than of a place of strength. The moat still exists, as does the entrance gateway, which was erected by the Cobhams. Besides the castle and parsonage, (a mere cottage,) there is only one house in this parish; though Sir Stephen de Penchester is recorded to have procured a grant of a market weekly, and a three days annual fair for his manor of Allington.

[A] ALMONDBURY is situated near the river Calder, in the upper division of the wapentake of Aybrigg. Here is a grammar school, Grammar school founded by James I. founded by patent from James I. and endowed with about £120 per annum. This place is noted for its extensive woollen manufactories. It was anciently called Albanbury. In the neighbourhood traces of an ancient castle, on an eminence, are still discernable. It is supposed, by some antiquarians, to have been the Campodonum of the Ancient castle.Campodonum of the Romans. Romans, and subsequently a royal seat of some of the Saxon kings.

[B] ALNWICK, is on the high road from London to Berwick, and usually regarded as the capital of the county. It is situated partly in the southern division of Barnborough Ward, and partly in the eastern division of Coquetdale Ward. It is built irregularly, on the declivities of a hill, near the river Alne, over which a handsome stone bridge was erected by the late Duke of Northumberland, which bears the Percy crest on the parapet; there is also another bridge, of one arch, lower down the river; these two bridges serve as boundaries to the fine lawns surrounding the castle. At the head of Pottergate is a tower or clock-house, built in 1786. An abbey of Premonstratension canons An abbey of monks, founded in 1147. was founded at Alnwick by Eustace St. John, in the year 1147. It was pleasantly situated on the northern margin of the Alne, the site of which was granted, in 1549, to Ralph Sadler, and Lawrence Wennington, after which it became the seat of the Brandling family, and also of the Doubleday family, by whom it was sold to the Duke of Northumberland. A fine gate house still remains, on which the Percy arms is visible. This town has a spacious market place, and a considerable town hall, in which the sessions and county courts are held. It is paved, watched, and lighted, under an act passed in 1821. Although the county town, the assizes are held at Newcastle. Alnwick Castle has been for many centuries a fortress of great Fortress of great strength. strength, and the family mansion of the Percys'; it stands on an eminence on the south side of the Alne, opposite to the town, and commands a beautiful view of the country. The walls are flanked with sixteen gothic towers, the battlements of which, are ornamented with figures of ancient warriors: it is very celebrated in border history, and was peculiarly fatal to the kings of Scotland, of whom Malcolm II. and his son Edward, The fall of Malcolm II. and his son Edward. fell before it; and William, surnamed the Lion, was taken prisoner. The castle has lately undergone a complete repair; great attention having been paid to the restoration of the gothic ornaments in their original style. The chapel has been rendered extremely beautiful, by the introduction of a ceiling, in imitation of the celebrated one of King's College, Cambridge. There is also a handsome window, on the model of one at York Minster, and the walls are painted in the manner of those of the cathedral of Milan. The tenants of the estate at Alnwick, in the year 1818, erected a monument to the memory of Monument to the memory of the late Duke of Northumberland. the late Duke of Northumberland, who died in 1817, and was buried in Westminster Abbey. The Percy column, as it is called, stands on a beautiful knoll, adjoining the road on the southern entrance to the town; it rises without a pedestal, and may be seen in every direction, it is eighty-three feet in height, but may be ascended easily by a circular flight of stairs within. There is an immemorial custom continued here on the proclamation of the several Curious customs in Alnwick. fairs; divers adjacent townships, which are free of toll in the borough, by this service, send their deputies to attend the bailiff, on the eve of the fair, when he makes proclamation; after which they keep watch all night in every part of the town, and this is the most perfect remains of watch and ward retained in any part of this country. It is said that King John, having endured considerable inconvenience from the miry state of the roads, in humorous revenge, directed that for the future, the freemen of Alnwick, should be made in the following manner, which is still observed.—On St. Mark's day, those who Making freemen at Alnwick through a muddy pool. are to be made free, assemble in the market place, dressed in white, with white caps, and a sword by their side. They proceed on horseback from this place to the town moor, headed by the four chamberlains, attired in the same manner, where they alight and rush through a muddy pool; having performed this ceremony, they change their soiled garments, and return to the town. Here is a free school, supported by a revenue arising out of the tolls, and various minor charities.

[A] NEW ALRESFORD, is in the north division of the hundred of Alton: seated on the river Itchin, at no great distance from its source. It was anciently a more populous place than at present, the navigation Formerly a populous place. of the river, having at one time extended from Southampton to this town; whereas, it now ceases at Winchester. Alresford is divided into two parishes, of which that of Old Alresford is deemed the mother church. The town, which formerly sent a member to parliament, is governed by a bailiff and eight burgesses; and the petty sessions are held here. There is a manufacture of linseys of some consequence, but generally speaking, the trade is much decayed. At Tichbourne Tichbourne Hall, seat of Sir H. Tichbourne. Hall, about two miles distant, the seat of Sir H. Tichbourne, there has been bestowed annually, on Lady Day, from the reign of Henry II. a gift to every applicant of twopence in bread or money; of which bounty, in some years, no less than seventeen hundred persons have partaken.

[A] ALTON is seated on the river Wye; it is a pleasant open town, consisting of three streets, of which the principal contains some handsome houses. It is governed by a constable appointed by the magistracy, and a petty sessions are held in the town. The district around is celebrated for the superiority of its hop plantations, and Celebrated for hops, and manufactures in serges and other worsted fabrics. possesses manufactures of druggets, serges, and other worsted fabrics, which are dyed in the wool. It was at Alton that Sir William Waller, in December 1643, obtained some advantages over the forces of Lord Hopton, who had taken his post in the town, the regiment commanded by Colonel Bowles retreated to the church, but not having time to barricade Church converted to a fortress. the doors, threw down their arms, and surrendered; but the Colonel himself, refusing quarter, was slain on the spot. Amongst the celebrated men to whom this town has given birth, may be mentioned William de Alton, a Dominican Friar, who lived in the time of Edward II., and wrote on the universality of the pollution of mankind by original sin. John Pitts, the Roman Catholic Biographer, who was born in 1560, and died in 1616; and William Curtis the Botanist, who was born about 1746, and died in 1799.

[B] ALTRINGHAM is a very neat market-town in the parish of Bowden, and hundred of Bucklow, near which the Duke of Bridgewater's canal passes from the Mersey at Runcorn, to Manchester; it Yarn, cotton, and worsted manufactories possesses several factories of yarn, cotton, and worsted, and the vicinity supplies the markets of Manchester well with fruit and vegetables. This town was anciently a fee for the barons of Dunham Massey, one of whom granted to it a guild mercatory in the thirteenth century.

[A] ALVECHURCH is situated in the middle division of the hundred of Halfshire; it was formerly a borough and governed by a bailiff, chosen annually at the court of the lord of the manor. The church is a large Church of Anglo Norman architecture. structure of Anglo Norman architecture, but the tower is modern. It however contains many ancient monuments: a hospital was founded here by Nicholas Lewkenor, of Hadsor, in 1580. The bishops of the county formerly had a palace here. Bishop Brain, Chancellor of England, in the reign of Edward III., to whom the Black Prince, wrote a circumstantial account of the battle of Poicters, died here in 1361. Bishop Latimer put it in repair in the reign of Henry VIII., it seems to have been merely a timber building. It has not been inhabited by any Bishop since the restoration, and was nearly a century ago, entirely pulled down, when the park was converted into farms. The river Arrow, which rises in the Lickey Hills, runs through the parish, towards Dilapidations of time. Beoley Park, and Warwickshire; and the Ikenield Street, also passes it. This town formerly consisted of several streets, but is now fallen into decay, it however, receives some benefit from the Worcester canal, which passes it, and joins the Stratford-and-Avon canal, at King's Norton.

[B] ALVESTON. This parish contains the vestiges of two Roman Two Roman camps. camps; the one on the top of a hill called Oldbury, near the Severn; the other called Castle Hill; in both which places, various relics of antiquity have been discovered.

[C] AMBLESIDE is seated on the decline of a hill, at the extremity of the romantic lake Winandermere, of which a branch passes through the town. It is held by Horsley, to be the site of the Roman Dictus. Site of the Roman Dictus. It is scarcely in the power of language to do justice to the romantic beauties of this neighbourhood; perhaps the most beautiful scenery in England, is to be found in its vicinity. Here is an extensive manufactory of woollen cloth.

[A] AMERSHAM, or Agmondesham is situated on the Misbourne, a branch of the river Colne. The town which is seated in a vale between two wooded hills, consists of a long street on the road from Uxbridge to Wendover; it is intersected about the centre, by a cross street from Chesham to High Wycombe, at the point of which stands the church. The market is held in the Market House, or Town Hall, built by Sir William Drake, about 1680; it is a brick building supported by pillars Town Hall, built by Sir W. Drake, 1680. and arches, with a lanthorn and clock, and said to be the handsomest in the county. Amersham was a parliamentary borough by prescription, but by the Reform Bill of 1832, is now disfranchised. The church was extensively repaired in 1778, in the chancel of which are monuments of the family of the Bents of Leicestershire, who had a seat in the parish; and a monument of Henry, son of Sir Patrick Curwen, Bart., who died in 1638; and also several monuments of the Drake family, in the chancel and the adjoining mausoleum; among which are those of Montague Gerrard, by Sheemaker, and the wife of the late Mr. Drake, by Henry Cheere. About a mile northward from the town, is Shardeloes Park, the seat of Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt Drake: the estate was formerly in the Shardeloes park. possession of the Brudenell's, which family terminated in a peeress, and brought Shardeloes to the Cheynes; afterwards it became the seat of William Totehill, Esq., where he entertained Queen Elizabeth in Entertainment of Queen Elizabeth. one of her progresses. Francis Drake, of East Sherwin, Surrey, who was one of the gentlemen of the bedchamber to James I., married Jane, the daughter and heiress of William Totehill, Esq. The mansion is beautifully situated on the brow of a hill, overlooking an immense sheet of water, covering thirty-five acres, and commands a delightful prospect, particularly towards the east, where the town of Amersham, and the surrounding eminences, covered with wood, present a very picturesque appearance. The gardens, formerly much admired for Picturesque views. their beauty, were originally formed by Sir William Drake, about 1666, but have been modernized by Richmond, for the late proprietor. Here is also a Free Grammar School, the scholars of which are entitled to three exhibitions in Corpus Christi College, Oxford, bequeathed by Dr. Challoner, a canon of Windsor, in 1620; and likewise four alms houses, with other minor charities. The manufactures are chiefly lace, sacking, and all kinds of white cotton, wrought by machinery; and the markets are well attended.

[B] AMESBURY, or Ambresbury, is situated on the river Avon, and is said to derive its name and origin from an abbey, founded by the British Prince Ambrosius; which abbey was subsequently changed Founded by the British Prince Ambrosius. into a convent of Benedictine monks, of which some remains are still to be seen. In the parish, and about two miles from the town, is the celebrated British monument, known by the name of Stone-henge. Antiquaries differ in their opinions as to the probable application of this structure; the majority, however, deem it to have been a druidical Stone-henge. temple, or a grand tribunal of justice. Out of twenty-four enormous stones, of which the outer circular range appears to have been formed, seventeen are still standing, and seven on the ground; of the inner circle, eleven out of the nineteen of which it was formed are still upright, and the remainder prostrate. The distance of the inner circle from the outer one is about eight feet, forming a walk between the two of about three hundred feet in circumference; the stones are from eighteen to twenty feet high, from six to seven feet broad, and about three feet thick, and there is an appearance of the whole having been surrounded with a trench, over which were three passages. There are numerous barrows and tumuli around it, where many skeletons and military weapons have been discovered. Conjecture has been at a loss to ascertain the means by which such solid masses could have been conveyed, and placed in so elevated a situation without the aid of machinery. It stands near the summit of a hill; even at the distance of half a mile the appearance is awful; but on a nearer approach, the eye is still more delighted with the greatness of its contour. On entering the building, either on foot or horseback, these Its awful appearance. ruins fill the mind with astonishment, which it is impossible for the pen adequately to describe. Other buildings have fallen by piece-meal—here a single stone is a ruin. As you advance farther, the greatness of every part, and the singular construction of the whole, causes additional surprise. Some authors suppose that this noble temple does not owe its defacement so much to the introduction of Christianity, as to the rude and barbarous hands of the neighbouring peasantry, who have carried away the stones for their own purposes. At a house which occupies part of the ancient nunnery, Nunnery of St. Augustine. a society of nuns of St. Augustine, from Flanders, have taken up their abode, probably attracted by the supposed sanctity of the situation. Near the town stands the once celebrated house of the Dukes of Queensbury, built by Inigo Jones, and subsequently improved by the Earl of Burlington. The neighbourhood abounds with clay used for making tobacco pipes, and the river Avon supplies a very much admired species of fish called loach. In the vicinity is a camp, called Vespasians. It consists Camp of 39 acres. of a triangular area of 39 acres, defended by a ditch and vallum, and bounded on two sides by the Avon. This may have been occupied by the Romans, but its construction and position indicate a British origin.

[A] ALMWICH, a seaport town in the parish of the same name, in the hundred of Twerclyn. It is situated on the north coast of the Island of Anglesey; and from a small village (in consequence of the discovery of a rich copper-mine in the Parys mountain) has been augmented into a considerable town: the appearance of this celebrated mountain is very rude; it is bare of vegetation, in consequence of the suffocating fumes which issue from it. The Romans are supposed to have obtained copper ore From this place the Romans obtained copper ore. from this place, as many vestiges of what, it is imagined, were their operations, are still traceable. The great riches of the site were not, however, discovered until March 2, 1768, by the lessees of Sir Nicholas Bayley, afterwards Earl of Uxbridge; and equally successful was the Rev. Edward Hughes, proprietor of another part of the same ridge. The substance of the mountain being ore, it has not been worked in the usual way, by shafts and levels, but by direct excavation. "Nature," Mr. Pennant observes, "hath been profuse in bestowing her mineral favours on this spot, for above the copper ore, and not more than three-quarters of a yard beneath the common soil, is a bed of yellowish greasy clay, from one to four yards thick, containing lead ore, and yielding from six hundred to a thousand pounds weight of lead from one ton; and one ton of the metal Lead ore which yields silver also. yields not less than fifty-seven ounces of silver. Mixed with the earth are frequently certain parts, of the colour of cinnabar; whether these are symptomatic of the sulphurous arsenical silver ores, or of quick-silver, I will not pretend to decide. Something interferes with the successful smelting of this earth in the great, insomuch that it has not yet been of that profit to the adventurers, which might reasonably be expected from the crucible assays of it." From this mountain arises a mineral water, which turns the syrup of violets red, without any signs of chalybeate. To enumerate the Various minerals. mineral substances found from time to time would prove a tedious employment, and perhaps an unimportant one. The following are the principal and most useful:—1. Yellow sulphurated copper ore; 2. Native copper, in small quantities; 3. Sulphate of copper, both chrystallized and in solution; 4. Sulphate of lead, containing a small portion of silver; 5. Black ore, containing copper with galenea, calamine, and some silver; 6. Native sulphur. Not far from Parys Mountain is the port whence the ore brought The port, a chasm between the rocks. from the mines is transported to Liverpool and Swansea; it is a chasm between two rocks, large enough to receive thirty vessels, each 200 tons. The two companies employ fifteen brigs, from 100 to 150 tons burden, besides sloops and other craft. The articles exported from these copper mines are principally a coarse copper from the smelting-house, a richer copper ore, dried precipitate of copper from the vitriol pits, refined sulphur, ochre, alum, and green vitriol. Though much improved by the copper companies, this port is so exposed to the swell of the ocean, as to make it difficult and dangerous of access, during the prevalence of high northerly winds.

[A] AMPNEY DOWN. The church of this place is very curious, and is said to have been built by the Knights Templars, about the year 1260. The church built by the Knights Templars. Under the window at the south-end of the transept, is the tomb of Sir Nicholas de Villiers and his lady, with their effigies, represented under an arch. The knight is represented as a crusader, in mail and surtout, with his legs crossed, his feet resting on a lion, and his right hand on the hilt of his sword; on his left arm is a shield bearing the Cross of St. George, charged with five escalop-shells. This figure is of hard blue stone; that of the lady is of free-stone, and much mutilated. Below the effigies of the knight is a mutilated inscription in the Saxon character. An ancient mansion, built by the family of the Hungerfords, in the reign of Henry the Eighth, was repaired and modernized, as to its exterior, a few years ago. It belongs, with the manor, to the family of Eliot, of Port Eliot, in Cornwall.

[B] AMPTHILL is situated between two hills in the centre of the county. Here is an obelisk of Portland stone, forming a receptacle for a pump; and also a Gothic cross, which was erected in 1744, to the memory of Catherine of Arragon, by the Earl of Upper Ossory, who was then proprietor of Ampthill Park, at a former period the residence of that ill-treated Queen. Under a pear-tree in Ampthill park Sir Philip Sydney wrote part of his Arcadia. This park, which lies to the west of the town, is now the seat of Lord Holland; it was constituted a royal domain by Henry VIII., who conferred a name on the annexed estates, the "Honour of Ampthill;" the old castle in which Queen Catherine resided, stood on a more elevated ground than the present mansion, which is a magnificent structure, with wings, and a flight of steps leading to a handsome hall; the park, which is now united with that of Houghton, is spacious, and presents several most delightful prospects. At the entrance of Ampthill Park there is a pear tree, under which it is reported that Sir Philip Sydney wrote a part of his Arcadia.

[A] AMROTH. The castle of Amroth, now modernized, from the house formerly called Eare Wear, was in the 15th century, a settlement of the Elliott's. The present proprietor is Captain Ackland, by purchase, from a female representative of the Elliotts. The most judiciously assimilating additions have been made so as to give it every appendage of convenience and luxury. The antique porch is nicely preserved. The conservatory and grapery are entered from the dining-rooms, which was once a vaulted roofed ale cellar, or castle prison. A portion of this vault remains unaltered. From the lawn is a beautiful and interesting view of Tenby. The View of Tenby. church of Amroth, on the road to Ludchurch, is situated on a limestone rock, which has been reduced on every side, and is remarkable for a curiously disposed tower.

[B] GREAT AMWELL is supposed to have derived its name from Emma's Emma's Well, one of sources of the New River Well, a pure water-fountain that issues from a hill, and forms one of the sources of the New River. Here is a monument erected by Mr. Milne, to the ill-requited Sir Hugh Middleton, in a small islet formed by the said river. Sir Hugh, notwithstanding the assistance afforded him by Parliament, and the City of London, ruined himself by procuring supplies of water to the metropolis. Great mystery envelopes the latter period of his life. It is traditionally reported that he retired to the village of Kemberton, Indigence of Sir Hugh Middleton. near Shiffnall, in Shropshire, where he resided some time in great indigence, under the assumed name of Raymond, and it is said that during such residence he was actually employed in paving the streets. The poet Warner, author of "Albion's England," lies interred here. The church is situated on an eminence, the picturesque beauty of which has been justly celebrated by the admirable poet, usually denominated Scott of Amwell, from his residence in the village, and the title of his poem.

[C] ANCASTER. This parish is situated on the great Roman road, called Ermin-street, and bears strong evidence of having been a Roman station; many authors unite to fix here the ancient Causennæ. It occupies a low situation, and at the north end flows a small brook. From the vestiges which remain of military works it has certainly been a place of great strength. A great number of coins, and other antiquities, have been found here in such quantities, as to become a source of considerable emolument to the inhabitants of the place; so much so, that at one time many became extensive dealers in them. These coins are of various Emperors. Several Mosaic pavements. mosaic pavements have also been discovered here. It is highly probable from these circumstances, that Ancaster was the Causennæ of Antoninus. About the town are several quarries of stone, which is found very near the surface. Ancaster once gave the title of Duke to the head of the Bertie family, but that Dukedom is now extinct.

[D] ANDOVER, situated on the river Anton, is supposed to have been the Andaoreon of the Romans; and this opinion seems to have been countenanced by the remains of several ancient encampments in the neighbourhood, and by the Roman road, which runs from Winchester to Cirencester, and passes through the town. The antiquity of the corporation is as remote as the reign of John, but the present charter was granted by Queen Elizabeth; the town is extensive, and two of the streets are handsome and wide. There is a spacious town-hall, supported by arches, under which the weekly market is held. The church, situated at the north of the town, is a large Gothic building, consisting of a nave, side aisles, and chancel, with a transept on the north, and a low tower rising from the centre; it existed in the time of the Conqueror, and is dedicated to St. Mary. Within Weyhill Fair. four miles of the town is held the great annual fair of Weyhill, which, as it lasts for a week, causes much circulation of money in Andover. In addition to the many small Roman encampments in the immediate neighbourhood, there is a very large one on the summit of Bury Hill, about two miles to the S.S.W.

[A] ANGLESEY (Isle and County of), forms one of the six counties of North Wales, and is situated at the north western extremity of the principality. It is watered on three sides by the Irish sea, and separated on the eastern side from Caernarvonshire, by the serpentine strait of Menai, from three-quarters to half a mile broad. Its form is irregular, being indented with many small bays and creeks, which gave it some maritime importance under its native princes. It has received numerous appellations from the ancient Britons; the most approved of which was Mon, signifying remote, Latinised by the Romans into Mona, the "nurse of Wales," from its fruitfulness; and changed by the Saxons into Angles-ey, or the Englishman's Island. It was the principal establishment of the Originally the principal establishment of the Druids. Druids in Britain, until this island was invaded by the Romans, A.D. 59, under Suetonius Paulinus, who ordered their groves to be cut down, and stationed a garrison to insure obedience. The climate of Anglesey is mild, and the sea-breezes render the weather more temperate here than in the other counties of North Wales, although from the same cause it is less clear: that portion of the island which borders on the Menai, the site of the terrific Druidical groves, is richly wooded. The interior, on the contrary, owing to the great scarcity of fuel, has been rendered nearly devoid of wood; and the greater part of the island possesses little of hill and dale beyond a gentle and undiversified undulation of surface; its general aspect is uninviting and cheerless. The land, however, is good, and under proper management very productive, as respects both tillage and pasturage. About 25,000 head of black cattle (exclusive of sheep and hogs), are Annual exportation of cattle. annually supplied to the English market, where they are much admired for their flavour and tenderness, occasioned by the short bite of the pasturage on which they feed. Before the erection of the suspension bridge, the passage of the numerous droves of cattle at the five authorized ferries of the Menai, was a very extraordinary sight; they were made to swim over, guided by the drovers in boats. Butter, cheese, hides, tallow, wax, and honey, form also great articles of trade here; throughout the island there are but few manufactures of any importance. The shore abounds in some of the most highly prized marine productions, and is especially celebrated Prized for its marine productions. for the variety and beauty of its sea shells. Anglesey is as interesting to the antiquary, as to the natural philosopher. The ancient British vestiges are very numerous; comprising no less than twenty-eight cromlechs, or Druidical altars, together with circles, monumental stones, entrenchments, and other remains of a similar description, both British and Roman, which will receive attention in their proper places; several of the parish churches (of which the whole, seventy-four, stand near the coast), with various monastic remains, also deserve examination on the score of antiquity. Mona, now Anglesey, was the chief seat of the Druids, A.D. 59. Suetonius Paulinus, in the reign of Nero, was invested with the command of Invasion of the Romans an army, and prepared to signalize his name by victories over those barbarians. Finding this island the chief seat of the Druids, he resolved to attack it, and bring into subjection a place which was the centre of their superstition, and which afforded protection to all their baffled forces. The Britons endeavoured to obstruct his landing on this sacred island, both by the force of their arms, and the terrors of their religion. The women and priests were intermingled with the soldiers upon the shore; and running about with flaming torches in their hands, and tossing their disheveled hair, they struck greater terror into the astonished Romans by their howlings, cries and execrations, than the real danger from the armed forces was able to inspire. But Suetonius, exhorting his troops to disregard the menaces of a superstition which he despised, impelled them to the attack, drove the Britons off the field, burned the Druids in the same fires which those The Druids burnt in the fires they had prepared for their enemies. priests had prepared for their captive enemies; destroyed all their consecrated groves and altars—and having thus triumphed over the religion of the Britons, he thought his future progress would be easy in reducing the people to subjection; but in this expectation he was disappointed. The circumference of the island is seventy-six miles. The sea-passage from Holyhead to Dublin, is about sixty miles, which is now traversed by steam packets daily. Next to agriculture, and the rearing of cattle, mining affords most employment to the labouring population; a great number of persons are also engaged in fishing and catching wild-fowl, round the coast. It comprises 200,000 acres of land.

[A] ANSLEY became the property of the Ludford family, by purchase, in 1613. Ansley Hall, an irregular but commodious residence, the manorial seat of John Newdigate Ludford, Esq., is situated in an extensive park, A hermitage and Chinese temple. rich in natural and artificial beauties, containing a hermitage erected with the materials of an ancient oratory, in which Warton, who visited it in 1758, left his beautiful verses, beginning:—

Beneath this stony roof reclined,
I sooth to peace my pensive mind.

On an insulated spot is also a Chinese temple, or cell, which contains a monument of the Purefoy family, removed from Caldecote Church in 1796. Ansley church has some remains of Saxon and early Norman architecture, and a square tower of remarkable beauty at the west end.

[A] ANSTEY. In this village are the remains of a castle, built in the Ruins of a Castle. reign of the Conqueror, by Eustace, Earl of Boulogne, for the purpose of keeping the English in greater subjection; it was demolished in the time of Henry III., and the parish church formed of its materials. The moat surrounding the mount upon which the keep was built, with additional works made in the reign of King John, still remains. In the south aisle of the church is an ancient monument, with the effigies, as traditionally reported, of Richard de Anstre the founder. The Roman road called Ermine Street, passes through this village.

[B] ST. ANTHONY, consists of the two manors of East and West Anthony, formerly in the Dawney family, but now in that of the Carews. East Anthony House, the seat of the Right Hon. Reginald Pole Carew, M.P., is situated on a branch of the Lynher Creek, nearly opposite Trematon Mount Edgecomb. Castle. It is a large square building, of Pentuan stone, finished by Gibbs the architect, about the year 1721. This mansion contains a respectable collection of old portraits, amongst which is one of Richard Carew, the historian, with a device of a diamond on an anvil, with a hammer suspended over it. The church contains several monuments well Seat of the Carew family. deserving attention. Besides numerous memorials of the Carew family, there is in the chancel, the form of a lady, on a brass plate, beneath an elegant gothic canopy, in memory of Margery Arundell, who died Lady of the Manor in the early part of the fifteenth century. Sir Alexander Carew, a gentleman of large property, and one of the representatives of the county, at the commencement of the civil wars, being averse to the measures of the court, and having been intrusted by Parliament with the command of St. Michael's Island and Fort, he attempted to deliver them into the King's Sir A. Crew beheaded. possession; but the design being discovered to the Parliament, he was suddenly seized and carried prisoner to Plymouth, and there the women were so enraged against him, that it was with difficulty he was rescued from their vengeance. From thence he was conveyed by sea to London, where he was expelled by the Commons, and being tried by a court-martial, was found guilty and beheaded on Tower Hill, December 23, 1644. West Anthony, or St. Jacobs. This is a very pleasing village, which has risen into importance from its proximity to the towns of Devonport, Plymouth and Stonehouse; it is a favourite residence of the officers connected with the dockyards and navy at these important towns. Near this place is Mount Edgecomb, the residence of the Earl of that title; it is celebrated for the beauty of its situation, near the sea, and being a much admired stroll for the inhabitants of, and visitors to Plymouth.

[C] APPLEBY is situate on the river Ancholme, which rises in the wolds near Market Raisin, whence, it takes a northerly direction near Glandford Bridge, it is navigable to the Humber for barges of small burden. That very ancient British road—the Ermine-street—passes through the village. This line of road was afterwards adopted by the Romans; it enters the county to the west of Stamford, and preserving nearly a due northerly direction, passing through the city of Lincoln, continues its course to the banks of the Humber; it is cast up to a great height, and is in some places seven yards in breadth.

[A] APPLEBY, a populous village, which connects the four counties of Leicester, Derby, Stafford, and Warwick. Here is a free grammar school for 100 boys, founded by Sir John Moore, in 1697.

[B] APPLEBY. This town is situated on the river Eden, by which it is almost surrounded, and by some antiquaries it is supposed to occupy the site of the Roman station Aballaba. It has been the county town since the reign of Edward the Confessor. It is governed by a Mayor, Aldermen, and capital Burgesses; the Mayor having authority to arrest for any sum without limitation. Appleby did send two representatives to Parliament, but has been disfranchised by the Reform Bill. It has many times been assailed by the Scots, who burnt it in 1388; and in 1598 it Burnt by the Scots. suffered seriously by a pestilence, from which time it has never recovered its former size and consequence. The town at present consists of one broad street, built irregularly on the slope of a hill, at the upper part of which stands the castle, which is of early Norman, if not of Saxon origin; and at the lower end the parish church. The ancient market houses or cloisters, were pulled down in 1811, and a handsome gothic building, erected by Smirke, in their stead. Here are also a town-hall and gaol; and at each end of the town stands a stone obelisk or cross. Appleby received charters from Hen. II., John, and Hen. III., all which were given up to James II., since which period it has subsisted as a borough by prescription. Crackenthorpe Hall, a manorial residence in this parish, was from the earliest period of authenticated record, the mansion of the Machels, a Saxon family, who eventually alienated it to the late Earl of Lonsdale. Near this seat, which is at present neglected, is a Roman camp 300 yards long and 150 yards broad, with three entrances, and a watch tower or fort, at the distance of bow-shot. Appleby has produced some eminent characters, among whom should be noticed Thomas de Veripont, Bishop of Carlisle, in 1255. Thomas de Appleby, Bishop of Carlisle, in 1363. Roger de Appleby, Bishop of Ossory, Eminent characters born here. in 1404; and Dr. Christopher Potter, Provost of Queen's College, Oxford, Prebendary of Windsor, and Dean of Worcester; the last named was vice-chancellor of Oxford when the civil wars of Charles I. broke out, and sent all his plate to the king, stating that he would drink as Diogenes did, from the hollow of his hand, before his majesty should want. Here is a free Grammar School, richly endowed, which is open to all the children of the town upon paying 2s. 6d. per quarter to the Master; and also five scholarships, founded by the Earl of Thanet at Queen's College, Oxford, and entitled to participate in five exhibitions of £60. per annum at the same college, on the foundation of Lady Elizabeth Hastings. An Hospital for thirteen widows, founded by the celebrated Anne, Countess of Pembroke and Montgomery, heiress of the Cliffords, the possessors of the castle for several centuries; by the marriage of whose eldest daughter it became the property of the family of Tufton, Earl of Thanet. The main portion of the present castle which is of a square form, was built in 1686 out of the ruins of a part of the former, by Thomas, Earl of Thanet. Appleby Castle survived the attacks of the Parliamentary Army, under the Appleby castle. influence of its owner, the aforesaid Countess Anne, but was compelled to yield in 1648. The church of St. Lawrence, which was partly built by the same spirited lady, contains a noble monument to her memory. The market is one of the best supplied with corn in its vicinity. It however possesses but little trade, and no manufacture of importance.

[A] APPLEDORE is situated on the banks of the river Rother, in the hundred of Blackburn, lathe of Scray, and was a place of some maritime Principally inhabited by Graziers. consequence in the reign of Alfred. The town is at present chiefly inhabited by graziers and others employed in the marshes, to which it is very near. The church is built on the foundation of a castle or fort, which had been erected by the Danes, who sailed up to this town in the year 893.

[C] APPLETHWAITE. All the fisheries on the lovely lake of Winandermere belong to the inhabitants of this thriving village, and subject Lake of Winandermere. only to a tithe of the fish caught to the Rector of Winandermere, who makes composition for the same, by a sum prescribed by each boat. The red char, esteemed so great a delicacy, is said to be peculiar to the lakes of Winandermere and Ullswater; this delicious fish is taken in nets Grand Regatta. during the months of October and May, when they are potted and sent to different parts of the kingdom. About the beginning of September a grand regatta is given on the lucid waters of the lake, attended by families of the first distinction.

[D] APPLETON. This village was the birth place of the famous physician and chemist, Edmund Dickinson, who was born in the year 1624. At 20 years of age he went to the university of Oxford; in 1655, (he published a work to prove) that the Greeks borrowed the story of the Pythian Apollo, Birth place of the learned Edmund Dickinson and all that related to the Oracle of Delphos, from the Holy Scriptures. In consequence of some excellent cures, he was appointed Physician to Charles II., and afterwards became a convert to the doctrine of the Transmutation of Metals; and wrote a work, the object of which is to prove, "that the method and mode of the creation of the universe, (according to the principles of true philosophy,) are strictly and concisely laid down by Moses." He died in 1707.

[E] APPLETREWICK. In this village was born William Craven, the founder of the noble House of Craven, who by his industry and good House of Craven. conduct arose from an humble station to the dignity of Lord Mayor of London—a proof of the advantages attendant on industry.

[A] ARBORFIELD, in the hundred of Sonning. In this parish, near the church, is an ancient Manor-house, well worthy of the observation of the Antiquary; it was built by the family of the Standens, who were Lords of the Manor in the 17th century. The last male heir of this ancient family Molly Mogg. was Edward Standen, the person alluded to in the popular ballad of Molly Mogg.

[B] ARDINGLEY. In the parish church are several monuments of the ancient families of the Wakehursts and Culpeppers; one of which is a tomb to the memory of Nicholas Culpepper and his lady, who died in the beginning of the sixteenth century. This monument bears his portraiture with that of his wife and eighteen children. Nicholas Culpepper, the celebrated Culpepper, the herbalist and astrologer. herbalist and astrologer, was born in London in 1616, and after receiving his education at the university of Cambridge, was apprenticed to an apothecary. He came to London and settled in Spitalfields about 1642. He commenced a war with the College of Physicians, by accusing them of deceit and ignorance, and published a translation of their "Dispensary," giving an account of the supposed virtues of each drug, and the complaints in which they were used. He was also author of the "Herbal," which is written with much clearness, and distinctly explained. It passed through many editions. From the tenor of his writings, it may be gathered that he joined or at least favoured the Jesuits.

[C] ARDSLEY. The birth place of James Nayler, a Quaker, who was remarkable both on account of the extravagance of the delusions which for J. Nayler, the Quaker, a remarkable fanatic; some time possessed him and his followers, and the excessive severity of the punishment which was inflicted upon him. He was the son of an industrious little farmer, who supported his family by the cultivation of his own estate. About the age of twenty-two he married, and removed into the parish of Wakefield, where he continued till the breaking out of the civil wars in 1641. He then entered into the parliament army, and served as a soldier eight or nine years, at first under Lord Fairfax, and becomes a soldier. afterwards as quarter-master in major-general Lambert's troop in Scotland; till, being disabled by sickness, he returned home about the year 1649. At this time he was a member of the Independent party, and continued so till the year 1651, when the preaching of George Fox made him a convert to the communion of the Quakers, as they are called. Among them he soon commenced preacher, and, according to their judgment, acquitted himself well both in speaking and writing.

In the beginning of the following year he imagined he heard a voice, calling upon him to renounce his kindred and his father's house, and go into the west, promising that God would be with him. In obedience to this voice, which he believed to be the voice of God, he went about preaching from place to place, and greatly increased the numbers of the new sect. Towards the close of the year 1654, or early in 1655, he came to London, where he found a meeting of Friends which had been established by Edward Burrough and Francis Howgill, among whom he so greatly distinguished himself by his preaching, that many drew invidious comparisons between him and his brethren, which created uneasiness and differences in the society. To such a length did these proceed, that some women, admirers of Nayler, assumed the liberty of interrupting and disputing with Howgill and Burrough in the midst of their preachings, and thus disturbed the peace of the meetings. For this conduct they were reproved by these preachers; upon which they complained so loudly and passionately to Nayler, that he was weak enough to take their part, and was so intoxicated with their flattering praises, that he became estranged from his best friends, who strongly disapproved of and lamented his conduct. In the year 1658 we find him in Devonshire, where he was committed to Exeter Committed to Exeter Jail for blasphemy. jail for propagating his opinions. Here he received letters from some of his female admirers and others, written in the most extravagant strains, calling him the everlasting Son of righteous—the Prince of peace—the only begotten Son of God—the fairest among ten thousand, &c., and some of his followers kneeled before him in the prison, and kissed his feet. It is but justice, however, to the Quakers in general to mention, that they had now disowned Nayler and his adherents.

Soon afterwards Nayler was released from imprisonment, and intended to return to London, but, taking Bristol in his way, as he passed through Glastonbury and Wells, his deluded attendants strewed their garments before him. When they came to Bedminster, about a mile from Bristol, Extravagant conduct of his admirers. they carried their extravagance to the highest pitch; for they formed a procession in imitation of our Saviour's entrance into Jerusalem, in which a man walked bare-headed before Nayler, and a woman led his horse, while other women spread their scarfs and hankerchiefs in the road, and the company sung, "Holy, holy, holy is the Lord God of hosts; Hosanna in the highest! holy, holy is the Lord God of Israel!" In this manner these mad people made their entrance into Bristol, marching through the mire and dirt, to the amazement of some, and the diversion of others; but the magistrates thought proper to interfere, and, after what had passed, committed them to prison. Soon afterwards they were sent to London and a committee was appointed by parliament to examine witnesses against Nayler, upon a charge of blasphemy, for admitting religious worship to be paid ti him, and for assuming the names and incommunicable titles and attributes of our blessed Saviour. Before the committee, he did not deny what was alleged concerning the extraordinary proceeding in Exeter jail, and at his entrance into Bristol; while defending himself by maintaining that the honours which he received were not shown to him, but to Christ who dwelt within him; and if they were offered to any other than to Christ, he disowned them.

However, the committee having made a report to the house on the fifth of December, declaring the charge well founded, on the following day he was sent for, and heard at the bar; and on the eighth they resolved that "James Nayler is guilty of horrid blasphemy, and that he is a grand impostor, Condemned by the House of Commons for blasphemy. and a great seducer of the people." The next business to be determined on was, the nature of the punishment to be inflicted on him; which occupied the debate of the house, both on forenoons and afternoons, till the 16th of December, many members being for putting him to death, (and losing their vote, as secretary Thurloe informs us, only by fourteen voices,) while many other members totally disapproved of the severity which was used against him. At length, on the following day, after a considerable debate, the majority came to the resolution, "That James Nayler be set in the pillory, in the Palace-yard, Westminster, during the space of two hours, on Thursday next; and be whipt by the hangman through the streets from Westminster to the Old Exchange, and there likewise be set with his head in the pillory, for the space of two hours, between the hours of eleven and one on Saturday next; in each place wearing Cruel sentence—his tongue bored with a hot iron. a paper, containing an inscription of his crimes: And that at the Old Exchange, his tongue be bored through with a hot iron; and that he be there also stigmatized in the forehead with the letter B: That he be afterwards sent to Bristol, and be conveyed into and through the said city on horseback, with his face backward, and there also publicly whipt the next market-day after he comes thither: And that from thence he be committed to prison in Bridewell, London, and there to labour hard till he be released by parliament; and, during that time, be debarred the use of pen, ink, and paper, and shall have no relief but what he earns by his daily labour."

On the eighteenth of December, the first part of it was carried into execution with the greatest rigour; but he was brought into a state of such extreme weakness by his cruel whipping, that, upon repeated applications to the parliament, his punishment was respited for one week. The His punishment respited Protector was then addressed, and wrote a letter to the house, which, though it occasioned some debate, obtained no resolution in favour of the prisoner. On this the petitioners presented a second address to Cromwell; but, it is said the influence of the ministers prevented its effect.

On the twenty-seventh of December, the remainder of Nayler's sentence was executed at the Old Exchange. Afterwards he was sent to Bristol, where he was publicly whipt, from the middle of Thomas-street, over the bridge to Broad-street. From Bristol, he was brought back to Bridewell, London, where he was confined about two years; during which his mind recovered from the frenzy which had governed it, and he felt deep humiliation and sincere repentance on account of his past conduct.

After the protector's death, Nayler was released from prison, and went to Bristol, where, in a public meeting, he made a confession of his offence His contrition and death. and fall, in a manner so affecting as to draw tears from most of those who were present, and having afforded satisfactory evidence of his unfeigned contrition, was again received into the communion of his friends.

Nayler did not long survive his enlargement, for having left London in October 1660, with the intention of going home to his wife and children at Wakefield, he was taken ill in Huntingdonshire, where, it is said, he was robbed and left bound in a field. Whether he received any personal injury is not known, but being found towards evening by a countryman, he was carried to a friend's house, at Holm, near King's Ripon, where he expired in the month of December, when about 44 years of age. The expressions uttered by him about two hours before his death, both in justice to his name, which is so conspicuous in the history of the reveries of the human imagination, and on account of their own excellence, ought not to be omitted in the memoirs of his life.

"There is a spirit which I feel," said he, "that delights to do no evil, nor to revenge any wrong, but delights to endure all things, in hopes to enjoy its own in the end. Its hope is to outlive all wrath and contention, and to weary out all exaltation and cruelty, or whatever is of a nature contrary to itself. It sees to the end of all temptation: as it bears no evil in itself, so it conceives none in thoughts to any other. If it be betrayed, it bears it, for its ground and spring is the mercies and forgiveness of God. Its crown is meekness, its life is everlasting love unfeigned, and takes its kingdom with entreaty and not with contention, and keeps it by lowliness of mind."

His writings were collected together, and published in an octavo volume in 1716.

[A] ARKENGARTH-DALE contains lead mines, which were worked in the reign of King John, and they are still so valuable, that a few years Valuable lead mines. ago the produce was estimated at 2000 tons annually; the inhabitants are chiefly miners.

[B] ARLSEY, or ARSLEY. This village was anciently a market town. In "Doomsday Book," (a book made by order of William the Conqueror, in which all the estates of the kingdom were registered;) its market on Wednesday is recorded, and the tolls valued at 10s. per annum. A fair was held here so long past as the year 1270; but both the market and fair have long been disused. An ancient entrenchment near An ancient entrenchment. the road to Baldock, called Etonbury, was probably the original site of the castle occupied by the Lords of the Manor. This castle appears to have a place of considerable strength. Amongst the ancient monuments in the church is one erected to the memory of Richard Edwards, who is called on his epitaph, the last Grand Reader of the Temple.

[C] ARMATHWAITE. Near this village is a castle, situated on the of the delightful river Eden, in a deep vale; the building from its monastic gloom, appears rather to have been calculated for seclusion than security. The front has been modernized, and is built of hewn stone. Its antiquity has not been ascertained, certain it is the Skeltons resided here as early as the reign of Henry VIII. The most romantic and picturesque scenery surrounds this lovely spot. A magnificent hill throws its solemn shade on the tranquil surface of the river, here broadened into a lake like form. Amongst other grand masses of rock is a projecting crag Rendezvous of wild cats of a bold and grotesque form called the Cat Glent, the rendezvous of many wild inhabitants of the feline tribe; beyond these is a mill and a few sequestered cottages. From this spot the river Eden is no longer tranquil, but rushing down a cataract pours in sonorous violence over a bed of opposing rock, whose immovable crags whirl the stream into eddies as it passes them in its fury. Near this place a nunnery was established by William Rufus, Nunnery founded by William II. who like other profligates, "trembled amidst his impiety," and was willing enough to secure a chance of heaven, provided it could be obtained by any other means than virtuous practice. At the dissolution of Monasteries, owing to the frequent hostilities between the Scots and English, their income amounted to only 18 guineas per annum.

[D] ARMITAGE is situated on the river Soar, in the hundred of Offlow, South, including the hamlet of Handsacre. The entrance to the church is very curiously built in the Saxon style, and the chapel is separated from the nave by a handsome arch. The Grand Trunk Canal passes through a A remarkable tunnel. very noble subterraneous cavern or tunnel, in this parish. The town received its name from having been the residence of a hermit.

[E] ARMLEY. This township is in the parish of St. Patrick, and the liberty of Leeds. It is situated on the banks of the Leeds and Liverpool Canal, and of the river Aire, on which there are a number of mills employed in various branches of the clothing trade. An object once of great antiquarian curiosity, called Giants Hill, which was a Danish fortification, is now scarcely traceable, in consequence of its having been cut through to form the Leeds and Liverpool canal.

[A] ARRINGTON. This village was anciently called Ermington. It is near Lord Hardwicke's Park. At this place, in the year 1721, the skeletons of sixteen human bodies were found in digging for a water course, Sixteen skeletons found here. within two feet of the surface of the ground. Some pieces of iron much rusted, conjectured to have been pieces of swords were also found. It is supposed the skeletons were the remains of persons who had been killed in endeavouring to obtain possession of the pass over the river Cam, during the civil wars.

[B] ARTHURET. This village is situated on a point of land which in early times was said to have been called Arthur's Head, from whence the name is derived. In this place was both born and buried, Archibald Armstrong, Jester to both King James I., and Charles I. By an incident suitable to his profession, his funeral took place on "All Fools Day," the A merry jester buried on "All Fool's Day." first of April. He was banished the court for speaking too freely of Archbishop Laud's measure of introducing the Liturgy into Scotland, which had produced a considerable tumult. On the arrival of the news of these riots in England, Archy facetiously asked his grace, "Who's the fool now." The joke was bitterly resented by the prelate, who procured an order of council to banish him from the court, for speaking disrespectful words of the Archbishop of Canterbury. This parish is bounded partly by Solway Frith, and forms part of the debateable lands so celebrated in Scottish history; these lands and the celebrated Solway Moss, we shall have occasion to speak further of in the course of the work.

[C] ARUNDEL, is situated on the declivity of a hill, on the north bank of the river Arun, over which there is a bridge. It consists of two principal streets, one of which runs north and south, and the other westward from the point of the union. Many of the houses are built in the castellated style. The church, situated at the north end of the town, originally belonged to a priory of Benedictines, and is supposed to have been founded soon after the conquest of Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Arundel. It is a handsome gothic building with transepts, from the centre of which rises a square tower, with a wooden spire. Some beautiful monuments of Beautiful monuments in the church. the Earls of Arundel may be seen; and one, more magnificent than the rest, is of alabaster, a calcareous earth, which differs from marble, in being combined not with carbonic, but with sulphuric acid. This monument is erected to the memory of Thomas Fitz-Alan, and Beatrice, his countess, a daughter of John, King of Portugal. The charter by which the town is governed, was granted by Queen Elizabeth. It formerly sent two members, but by the Reform Bill, it now sends but one; the ten pound householders are calculated at 380. The borough comprises the parish of Arundel and the returning officer is the mayor. Here was formerly a harbour sufficient to contain vessels of one hundred tons burthen, but it has suffered great damage by the sea. Great quantities of Quantities of Sussex oak shipped from this place. timber for ship building, are still shipped from this place, which has but little trade, yet it is much benefitted in summer by the numerous visitors who resort to it for sea bathing. Of the castle, which stands on the north-east side of the town, mention is first made in the will of King Alfred, who bequeathed it, with the town, to his nephew Adhelm. A popular Tradition ascribes the foundation of the castle to a giant. tradition ascribes the foundation of it to Beris, "a giant of ancient times," in confirmation of which opinion a tower is still pointed out, called Beris Tower. The Conqueror gave it to his kinsman Roger de Montgomery, whom he also created Earl of Arundel, which title belonged to three persons of this family, till Robert Bellesme was outlawed by Henry I. for the assistance he gave to that monarch's brother, Robert. The castle was then settled on Queen Adeliza, who, after the death of her royal consort, gave her hand to William de Albini, one of the most accomplished men of his age. Here the dowager-queen performed the rites of hospitality towards the Empress Maud, in the attempt of that princess to ascend the throne. The last male heir of the name of Albini, died in 1243, when the castle and manor of Arundel fell to his sister, Isabel, whose husband, John Fitz-Alan, made the castle his residence, and assumed the title of Earl of Arundel. The fourth in descent from him forfeited his life and estates, in the attempt to ruin the Despensers, favourites The king presided at the execution of one of its lords. of Edward II.; but the estates were restored to his son, whose successor, in the reign of Richard II., being accused of a conspiracy to seize the king, and put to death the lords of the council, was beheaded; the king presiding at the execution. His son, Thomas Fitz-Alan, was reinstated by Henry IV.; but, he dying without issue, in 1415, the castle devolved to his cousin, Sir John Fitz-Alan, who laid claim to, and obtained the title, on which an act was passed, that the possession of this castle and honour conferred the dignity of Earl without creation. The last Fitz-Alan died in the 22d of Elizabeth, leaving a daughter, who married Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, thus carrying the earldom and estate into that family, to whom they still belong.

Concerning the true period of the foundation of this castle, many conjectures have been entertained. On account of the bricks inserted in the walls of the keep, it has been attributed to the Romans; but such a proof The great antiquity of the castle. is not allowed by the best antiquaries. Its pretensions to the era of the Saxon kings are more explicit. The more ancient parts are the keep or citadel, and the towers which flank the gateway, and connect the whole by means of a sally port. The keep stands upon an artificial mound, the height of which, from the fosse, is one hundred and ten feet on one side, and eighty on the other. Of its external wall, the height is thirty feet, supported by projecting ribs or buttresses. It is eight feet thick, with a wall on the inside, guarded by a parapet as many feet high. The diameter of the room which is faced with Norman or Caen stone, is sixty-seven feet by fifty-nine. There are also Roman bricks placed in the herring-bone fashion, which is observable in most Saxon buildings. In the centre is a subterraneous room and passage; and in a tower attached to the keep, is a well three hundred feet deep. The approach is by a time-worn staircase, and over a narrow pass, commanding the entrance to the building, which bears the marks of a portcullis. The more ancient one towards the east still retains a very rich Saxon door-case. In the tower above the present entrance, was a small chapel or oratory, dedicated to St. George. The The castle dungeons of remarkable depth. tower and gateway facing the base court of the castle are apparently co-temporary with the keep. The other towers are built with flint. The dungeons are on the right and left of the gateway. They consist of eight wards, protected by a draw-bridge from the castle moat. The lower wards are very deep, and partly filled up with rubbish. The foundation walls of these dungeons are not known, although efforts have been employed to discover the length and depth of these frightful abodes. The Empress Maud's apartments are in the tower, above the old gateway. They consist of three bed-rooms. The Saxon keep may justly be termed the ivy-mantled tower, for the walls are literally covered with its leaves. The late Duke of Norfolk was very partial to this retired spot. Here are several remarkably curious owls, elegant, and extremely large; some of them Remarkable owls measuring across the wings, from eight to ten feet. Their plumage is particularly beautiful, and their eyes brilliant. The late duke purchased them from North America. There are many traces of ancient remains about the keep or tower. The spot where the boilers stood, for the purpose of melting the lead to pour down upon the besiegers, and those used for culinary purposes, are still visible. The marks of cannon balls discharged against the tower during the siege of the parliamentary forces, are observable in many places. The ground plan of the present castle nearly resembles that of Windsor Castle, in the exact proportion of nine to fourteen. When the late Duke of Norfolk took possession, the castle was little better than a heap of ruins, but his Grace has restored it to its original magnificence. The building is of free-stone, from the quarries in Yorkshire; and those of a brown cast were carefully selected, in order that they might assimilate in colour with the old remains. The new walls have The late Duke of Norfolk restored the castle to its ancient magnificence. risen upon the ancient model, and correspond with the old ones in solidity of fabric, as well as dignity of ornament. An entire new front of massy stone, which differs materially from the others, particularly in exhibiting the insignia of the Howards, mixed with those of their predecessors, and two colossal figures of liberty and hospitality, ornament the grand entrance. In raising this front, the late duke had the opportunity of enlarging the mansion, and gaining the space now occupied on the basement story, by a long range of servants' offices, including a new kitchen, with two fire places, bake-house, scullery, the steward's and housekeeper's rooms, &c. The cellars are of immense length. The duke weekly employed from 100 to 200 labourers, mechanics, and artists, in the improvement and decorations of this noble edifice, for upwards of twenty-five Employed from 100 to 200 labourers for 25 years. years. The arrangements were formed entirely from his own ideas, and in the progress of the plan, he was exclusively his own architect. On the west wing is a beautiful sculptured basso relievo historical representation of King Alfred receiving the report of the jury, as established in his reign. The costume and draperies are finely carved in stone. The interior of the castle is fitted up with great taste and effect. The richest mahogany has been used in almost every decoration. The walls being more than six feet thick, form a kind of frame for each window, which is five feet deep on the inside, and the whole of this spacious case is lined with mahogany. The window frames which hold the magnificent plate glass panes, three feet each in height, are of the same material; and the solid mahogany doors are held in cases of the thickness of the inner walls, perhaps, four feet deep, all lined with pannels of the richest grain.

In the Barons room the following inscription appears:—

"CHARLES HOWARD, DUKE OF NORFOLK,
EARL OF ARUNDEL,
in the year of Christ, 1806,
in the 60th year of his age,
dedicated this stone
To Liberty, asserted by the Barons,
in the reign of John."

On the 15th of June, 1815, a great festival took place for celebrating the centenary of the signing of Magna Charta. There was a splendid assemblage of the nobility and persons of distinction. Complete suits of ancient Festival to celebrate the signing of Magna Charter held here. armour, with swords and spears, forged in ancient times, and for very different purposes, were either suspended from, or hung around the walls; and every adventitious aid was adopted to give state and majesty to this celebration of the magnanimous conduct of the Barons of England. Nearly three hundred distinguished guests sat down. The head of the table was ornamented with a noble baron of beef, surmounted by the ducal coronet, and the banners of the illustrious house of Norfolk.

The castle occupies a mile in circumference, and the beautiful domains which surround this magnificent structure, are more than seven miles and The times when the castle may be inspected by visitors. a half in circumference, enclosed with a strong fence railing. The grounds are well laid out, in gardens, shrubberies, and plantations. There are three agreeable towers in the park; High Horn, commanding an extensive prospect; and Mount Pleasant, covered with ivy, overlooking the beautiful vale of Sussex. The late duke built another tower, facing the road to Petworth, called the White Ways. The castle is open to the inspection of visitors on the first Sunday in the month after divine service, and on every Monday in the year.

When the buildings on the Norfolk estate adjoining the Strand, London, were erected, it was legally settled, that the whole of the rents, should be expended Estates in London devoted to keep it in repair. for the sole purpose of keeping up Arundel Castle; this has always been acted upon. The original rents having long since fallen in—and the increased income that has been produced by that cause, joined to the general increase of rents in that quarter, has been so great, that it now requires very great ingenuity to contrive the means of laying out all that money according to the directions of the original entail; and this is the real cause of the magnificent style in which that ancient baronial castle is still supported. The estate thus mentioned, comprises the whole of Surrey-street, Arundel-street, Howard-street, and Norfolk-street, which are the entire property of the Norfolk family.

[A] ST. ASAPH. This city is seated on the decline of a pleasant eminence, between the rivers Clwyd and Elwy, which renders the first appearance striking, though it contains little more than one street. The church stands in the lower part of the town, and serves for the use of the parishioners, the cathedral not being used for parochial purposes; the latter was built about the close of the fifteenth century; it consists of a choir, a nave, two aisles, and a transept. During the protectorship of Cromwell the palace and cathedral were much injured by the post-master, who made great havoc The font of the cathedral used for watering horses. in the choir of the cathedral, using the font as a trough for watering his horses; and by way of venting his spleen on the clergy, tied up calves in the bishop's throne. Several very eminent men have been bishops of St. Asaph, including Dr. Isaac Barrow, William Beveridge, and Samuel Horsley, the former of whom founded an alms-house for eight poor widows. Bishop Hughes, who died 1600, founded, and endowed the Free Grammar School. The neighbourhood possesses several land proprietors who have given great encouragement to agriculture, amongst whom may be included Dean Shipley, who stimulated the practical farmers to emulation, by premiums, and other encouragement. To this spirited dignitary, so well known in the history of the law of libel, a very handsome monument has been erected in the cathedral.

[B] ASBY, once called Askeby. This parish consists of four manors. The church is ancient, its beauty has been much disfigured by repairs; it has even been diminished in size, as appears by an arch now filled up in the north wall. At Sayle Bottom are several tumuli—some circular, others rectangular. At Garthorne Hall, a tumulus was found to contain human bones and a large sword, and another containing three entire skulls. Pate Hole, in this parish, is a remarkable cavern in a limestone rock, Pate Hole, an immense cavern. consisting of two galleries, one 430 yards long, towards the north east, the other, 230 yards long, making a large sweep from the extremity of the first to its middle; together, they resemble the letter P. At the end of the first gallery is a lofty dome, and a pool 20 yards long, 6 broad, and 3 deep; and in the second are two perpendicular chasms of unknown extent, from whence proceed in rainy seasons torrents of water, which fill the cavern and discharge themselves from its entrance. The noise of these operations resemble at first gentle music, but increases to the pitch of the loudest. In one part is a petrifying spring, which always stands at one temperature.

[A] ASHE is situated in Musbury parish, which lies in the hundred of Axminster, two miles east by north from Colyton. It is the birth place of the celebrated John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough: this distinguished The birth-place of the celebrated Duke of Marlboro'. erson was born here in the year 1650. He received only an indifferent education, for his father took him to court at the age of twelve years, when he became page, as his sister, Arabella, became mistress to the Duke of York. In 1660, he obtained a pair of colours in the Guards. His first service was at the siege of Tangier, and, on his return from thence, he became the favourite of the Duchess of Cleveland, who gave him £5,000 with which he purchased an annuity for life. He afterwards served under the great Turenne, who was so pleased with his person and bravery as to call him the handsome Englishman. At the siege of Maestricht he so distinguished himself, that the King of France publicly thanked him. On his return he was made lieutenant-colonel, gentleman of the bedchamber, and master of the robes to the Duke of York, whom he attended to Holland and Scotland; and about this time married Miss Jennings, maid of honour to the Princess, afterwards Queen Anne. In 1682, he was shipwrecked with the Duke of York, in their passage to Scotland, on which occasion his royal highness expressed the greatest anxiety to save his favourite. The same year he was made a peer, by the title of Baron Eymouth, in Scotland; and when James came to the crown, he was sent to France to notify the event. In 1685, he was created Lord Churchill, of Sandridge. The same year he suppressed Monmouth's rebellion, and took him prisoner. He took Monmouth prisoner in the reign of James II. He continued to serve James with great fidelity, till the arrival of the Prince of Orange, and then left him, for which he has been stigmatized, and perhaps not unjustly, with base ingratitude. His own apology was a regard for the religion and constitution of his country. He was created Earl of Marlborough by King William in 1689, and appointed commander of the English army in the low countries. He next served in Ireland, and reduced Cork, with other strong places. In 1692, he was suddenly dismissed from his employments, and committed to the Tower: he was, however, very soon released, but the cause of this disgrace was never clearly explained. After the death of Queen Mary he was restored to favour; and at the close of that reign he had the command of the English forces in Holland, and the States chose him captain-general of their forces. On the commencement of the reign of Anne, he recommended a war with France, and his advice was adopted. In the first campaign of 1702, he took a number of strong towns, particularly Liege. In the following year he Created a Duke by Queen Anne. was created a Duke. In 1704, he joined Prince Eugene, in conjunction with whom he conquered the French at Hochstedt, took Marshal Tallard prisoner, and brought him to England, with 26 other officers of rank, 121 standards, and 179 colours. He then received the grant of the manor of Woodstock. In 1706, he fought the famous battle of Ramilies. This battle accelerated the fall of Louvain, Brussels, and other important places. He arrived in England, and received fresh honours from the Queen and Parliament. Blenheim house built for him. Blenheim house was ordered to be built, and a pension of £5,000. a year was awarded him. In 1709, he defeated Marshal Villars at Malplaquet. In the year 1711, he returned to England with additional laurels, but was soon after dismissed from his employments. To add to this unjust treatment, a prosecution was commenced against him for applying the public money to his private purposes. Indignant at such conduct, he went into voluntary banishment till 1714, when he landed at Dover, amidst the acclamations of the people. George I. restored him to his military employments, but he retired from his appointments to Windsor, and died in 1722. His remains were interred with great pomp in Westminster Abbey. His Died in the 8th year of the reign of Geo. I. Duchess outlived him several years. She was a woman of a strong mind, but overbearing passions. Her letters have been printed, and display uncommon sagacity, blended with a great share of vanity. The mansion house in which the Duke was born, now in a state of ruin, was rebuilt shortly after the civil wars, by Sir John Drake, whose daughter had married Sir Winston Churchill.

[A] ASHBOURN is very pleasantly situated in a rich valley on the eastern side of the Dove, over which is a stone bridge. It is divided into two parts by a rivulet, which is called Henmore, the southern part of which is termed Compton, the ancient Campdene. From the descent of the hill on the Derby road, the view of the place as it presents itself embosomed amongst the hills is beautifully picturesque. It is a neat town, but there is nothing remarkable in its buildings. At the time of the conquest it was a royal manor, and subsequently became a part of the Duchy of A royal manor of the Saxon Kings made part of the Duchy of Lancaster. Lancaster, until it was sold by Charles I. It is supposed that the church, which is dedicated to St. Oswald, was finished in the thirteenth century; in it are many monuments to the Cockaines, Bradburns, and Boothby's, successively possessors of the manors. Sir Thomas Cockaine and other natives, founded a Free Grammar School, in the reign of Elizabeth, for children of the town and neighbourhood, and also a second for the poorer class of children of both sexes. Here are also a chapel and a neat row of alms-houses, founded in 1800 by a native named Cooper, who made a fortune in London, for six poor men and women, and several other hospitals for decayed house-keepers, including one for the maintenance of four clergymen's widows. A very considerable trade is carried on here in cheese and malt, many horses and cattle are sold at its fairs. Much lace is made here, and a great many persons are employed in the iron and cotton factories in the neighbourhood. The romantic and beautiful glen of Dovedale is within a short distance. This town is one of the polling places for the southern division of the county.