Title: Historical Guide to Old Charlottesville
Author: Mary Rawlings
Release date: September 15, 2015 [eBook #49980]
Most recently updated: October 24, 2024
Language: English
Credits: Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
Compiled by
Mary Rawlings
Honorary President of
The Albemarle County Historical Society
Copyright 1958
Mary Rawlings and Velora C. Thomson
CHARLOTTESVILLE, VIRGINIA
COURT SQUARE
1828
CHARLOTTESVILLE, VIRGINIA
Floyd Johnson Courtesy of Alb. Co. Hist. Soc.
Albemarle County Courthouse. Built 1803. J. Rawlings Thomson
Upon the forming of the County of Albemarle in 1745, its boundaries included what are now Buckingham, Amherst, Nelson, and Fluvanna Counties, with parts of Appomattox and Campbell—the Blue Ridge being the Western line. The county seat was then placed in Scottsville on the James, but with final boundary adjustments in 1761 it was felt necessary to remove the court house to a more central site. Thus Charlottesville was not a town of natural growth, but a political creation. It was formed by Act of Assembly, November 5th, 1761, to take effect January 1st, 1762. The name was bestowed in honor of Princess Charlotte, bride of George III.
The Court House Square was owned by the County, and adjoined the town on the North. A court house was erected promptly, but for some years town growth was slow, and as late as 1779 the village was said to contain only about a dozen houses. In 1835 it consisted of “about 200 handsome and comfortable dwellings, generally of brick, 4 houses of worship, 3 large hotels, 1 tavern, 2 book stores, 2 druggist stores, and about 20 mercantile establishments.”
The court house and its environs now constitute Old Charlottesville, and some account of the locality will be found in the ensuing pages.
The first Charlottesville Court House, built in 1762, was of wood, and reproduced that of Henrico County; the cost 375 pounds, ten shillings. It stood near the site of the Confederate statue and faced down Court—now Fifth—Street.
In that small structure both Jefferson and Monroe, as fledgling lawyers, practiced that profession. Both were youthful magistrates—although public life early broke this tie for both of them. There are no records of Mr. Jefferson’s sitting on the bench, although he did take depositions. Mr. Monroe sat regularly for six months in 1799, just previous to becoming Governor.
As the Revolutionary War drew to its end the little building knew a brief notoriety. Before the threat of Cornwallis, Governor Jefferson and the Legislature refugeed, May 24, 1781, to re-convene in Charlottesville. The Legislature met in the Court House, the overflow occupying the Swan Tavern across the street. Cornwallis dispatched in pursuit his “hunting leopard,” Col. Banastre Tarleton, with a troup of 180 cavalry and 70 mounted infantry.
These reached the village on the morning of June 4th, to find that a warning had preceded them. The members had left town for Staunton: they were pursued and seven captured. The Jeffersons—the family by carriage, Mr. Jefferson on horseback—refugeed to Enniscorthy, the Coles plantation in Southern Albemarle.
The warning was brought by John Jouett, captain of militia, and a native of Charlottesville, his father being the owner of Swan Tavern. Chancing to be in Cuckoo Tavern in Louisa County as the legion swept by on the main road, he suspected their destination and rode swiftly by a shorter route, covering the forty-odd miles in time to arrive several hours before the enemy. This was the famous “Jack Jouett’s Ride,” which in dash, and political importance, surpassed that of New England’s Paul Revere.
In Charlottesville the British troops destroyed military stores amounting to 1000 new muskets, 400 barrels of powder, several hogsheads of tobacco, and a quantity of soldiers’ clothing. A more serious loss was the burning on the court house green of the County records, which covered the foundation of the County. As the uniform of the legion was white, faced with green, and that of the infantry red, the village must have presented a dramatic appearance during these hours.
Upon the 5th, Tarleton with his prisoners, withdrew towards Tidewater, his movements being hastened by rains which flooded the streams, and by the gathering of local militia. Jouett’s gallant action received State recognition. A resolution of the General Assembly, December 14, 1786, reads: Colonel Meriwether directed, “to procure an elegant sword for Capt. John Jouett on the best terms he can for the Contingent Warrents.”
The main portion of the present court house was built by order of court, 1803. A committee of three produced the plan. (Mr. Jefferson was not one of these, but is said to have approved the design.) We do not know the style of the original portico; the present entrance and T-front are post-Civil War. The grounds held the usual whipping post, stocks, and pillory, and as late as 1857 the whipping post was restored.
The court house long served as the town’s public building, and the denominations used it in rotation. Writing about this in 1822, Mr. Jefferson says:
“In our Richmond there is much fanaticism, but chiefly among the women. In our village of Charlottesville there is a good degree of religion, with but a small spice of fanaticism. We have four sects, but without either a church or a meeting house. The court house is the common temple, one Sunday in the month to each. Here Episcopal and Presbyterian, Methodist and Baptist, meet together, join in hymning their maker, listen with attention to each others’ preachers, and all mix in society in perfect harmony.”
Mr. Jefferson was a frequent worshipper, riding down from Monticello and bringing a light cane which opened into a seat—his own invention. It was not unusual to see on this green a president and two ex-presidents in friendly talk with neighbors. Mr. Madison, who lived some twenty-odd miles off in Orange County, was a close friend of the Albemarle two: they were called “the great trio,” as in close harmony they governed the United States for some twenty-four years. Mr. Madison was a member of the University Board, and, oddly enough, president of the Albemarle Agriculture Society.
An interesting old document, originally deposited in the court house was the will of Thaddeus Kosciusko, the gallant Pole who came to America to fight in the Revolution. He left it with Mr. Jefferson, and appointed him executor. When Jefferson heard of his death in 1817 he had the will recorded in the office of the Albemarle Circuit Court, where it remained on file until May, 1857. It was then transmitted to the Secretary of the Commonwealth, to be deposited in the State Library.
Mr. Jefferson’s own will, executed here, contained many interesting and touching features. Although overwhelmed with debts, he freed five of his servants. This portion reads as follows:
“I give to my good, affectionate, and faithful servant, Burwell, his freedom and the sum of three hundred dollars to buy the necessaries to commence his trade of painter and glazier, or to use otherwise as he pleases. I give also to my good servants, John Hemings and Joe Fosset, their freedom at the end of one year after my death, and to each of them respectively, all of the tools of their respective shops or callings, and it is my will that a comfortable log house be built for each of the three servants so emancipated, on some part of my lands convenient to them with respect to the residence of their wives, and to Charlottesville and the University, where they will mostly be employed.—I give the use of an acre of land to each during his life.—I humbly and earnestly request of the legislature of Virginia a confirmation of the bequest of freedom to these servants with permission to remain in this State where their families and connections are, as an additional instance of favor, of which I have received so many manifestations in the course of my life, and for which I now give them my last solemn and dutiful thanks.” (Two boys were to receive their freedom upon coming of age.)
Until towards the middle of the 1800’s this court house was the sole voting place in Albemarle County. Elections were held on court days. Only “Freeholders”—white, adult males owning at least twenty-five acres of land with a building on it—had the franchise. The secret ballot was unknown. Candidates were required to be present throughout the election, and by popular custom they were expected to furnish a “treat” for their followers. These supplies of food, and especially of drink, became an expense which friends sometimes had to share. Rum punch was the usual drink, although cider was also offered.
The procedure was as follows: the voting was by voice. A long table was placed in the court room. At the center of this sat the High Sheriff; on either side of him were a few of the county Justices; then at the two extreme ends were the respective candidates, each with a clerk who recorded his party’s votes. The room was open to the crowd. Singly, each voter advanced before the bench. If unchallenged, the Sheriff asked his 6 choice and the man named his candidate. The candidate then usually rose, bowed, and expressed his thanks: “I thank you, Sir”; “You honor me, Sir.” The crowd at the same time expressed its feelings in cheers or sharp retorts. (See The Freeholder, Charles S. Sydnor, Chapel Hill Press.)
It is interesting to know that Jefferson and Monroe both voted in such elections many times. This method continued until after the death of both men.
On one occasion, April 1810, Mr. Jefferson came down hurriedly from Monticello and lobbied on this green for Monroe, who at that time was undergoing a brief decline in popular favor. The contest was for the State Assembly. The local party had gone so far as to decide to nominate another man; Mr. Jefferson’s intervention, however, nipped this in the bud; the proposed candidate withdrew at Jefferson’s solicitation; Monroe was substituted and elected.
Coming momentarily down to the War-Between-the-States era, Virginia’s famous cavalry officer, Col. John S. Mosby, is doubly connected with this building. Mosby came to Albemarle as a small boy, grew up near town, and attended the University. While a student, he—in an altercation—shot and seriously wounded a man. He was tried in this building and sentenced to a year in prison; but he was pardoned after serving seven months.
During the war, as “Ranger Mosby,” he had a brilliant guerrilla career. In March, 1865, about a month before the surrender, he happened to be in Charlottesville at the time of Sheridan’s raid through the town. He was warned that Sheridan would enter from the West. He obtained civilian dress. Believing he had time, he entered a Main Street shop. However, the Union troops had spread out and a small company was entering from the North, down Park Street, at that very time. A running colored boy warned Mosby of his danger; hearing the words ‘Park Street,’ he supposed he was to escape in that direction. Rushing for his horse, he entered Fifth Street on the dead run. Reaching Jefferson Street he found the company was already at the court house and disbanding. Dashing through unrecognized he cleared High Street at one jump, ‘with mud splashing to Heaven,’ and escaped down Park Street after all.
Sixth Street. Eastern Boundary of Village. J. Rawlings Thomson
These old, early nineteenth-century houses have a grave and quaint charm of their own. At the corner of Park and East High Streets stands a large red brick building now known as the Park View Apartment, 350 Park Street. It was erected in 1851 “for the purpose of a town Hall.” Up to that time the lot had served as a playground for men and boys, and was known as the Battery. Later, the hall became the Levy Opera House, but with the coming of the movies its public functions declined.
The Red Land Club now occupies the site of one of the old buildings of the village, the famous Swan Tavern. The exact date of the tavern’s building is not known; the lot was bought 8 in 1773. The building was a wooden structure with its painted sign of a swan hanging over the door. It was the home of the Jouett family. Jack Jouett, hero of the famous ride, lived here, and here the refugeeing members of the Virginia Legislature convened in 1781. In 1812 the tavern became known as the War Office, as military matters connected with that war were handled here. Following this, it gradually fell into decay and in 1832 collapsed. The present brick building was then erected.
Farish House. Now Old Wing of Monticello Hotel. J. Rawlings Thomson
Number Nothing (now Numbers 240-242 Court Square) is the original house on this lot. It was built in 1820; a double store, separately owned and handled. The name comes from the fact that at first the lot was intended for a horse lot. When it was sold the other lots had been numbered in rotation; a sequence was impossible, so Number Nothing was chosen. 9 Traditions of the slave trade cluster here. Until some forty years ago there was on its Southern side, at the curb, a large stone, some eighteen inches high, by fifteen inches wide, and thirty long, which was known as the slave block. Here the village auctioneers long functioned, and doubtless when slaves were brought in, their dealers made use of these facilities. A fragment of an old sign may still be deciphered on this wall: “... and Bros. Auction Rooms.” The stone was unintentionally removed during recent street repairs.
223 Court Square was built in 1815 as a store. Next, where Number 222 now stands, formerly stood two small wooden buildings. The first was a small, one-room affair, the village library. Mr. Jefferson made substantial contributions of books from his great collection. A few of these volumes, bearing both his signature and the stamp of the library, are preserved in the Alderman Library at the University.
The second little house was the shop of a Swiss watch-maker, who was induced to settle here by Mr. Jefferson, who at intervals brought in other European artisans: Italians to introduce wine-making, an Italian coach-builder, and stone-cutters to carve the capitols at the University.
On the Square’s South side stood the famous Eagle Tavern. Its site is now the East wing of the Monticello Hotel. For almost two centuries this spot has been the site of a house of entertainment, and has never had any other use.
The date of the first building is not recorded. The lot was cut off and sold in 1765; the village then was two years old, and the lot was new. When sold for the second time, in 1791, it is described as a tavern. The building probably followed the first purchase.
The Eagle Tavern was a wooden, two-and-a-half story building, with the sign of the eagle displayed. A deep porch covered its front, and on this travelling peddlers habitually sold their goods: saddles, boots, dry goods, etc. This for some decades was an important item in the supplies of the village, but after 1835-36 it died away.
Later, this wooden structure was replaced by the present low brick building. The name became Eagle Hotel, and so continued until 1863, when it became the Farish House.
Of its use before the coming of the railways we are told that on court days 200 or more persons dined here, and in the stables and lot 250 horses were fed. Reminiscing, an early citizen wrote:
“In 1833 the price of board and lodging was ten dollars per month. The public room was a spacious hall, having in it a large open fireplace.... In one corner of this public room was the bar, having shelves on which were ranged decanters and bottles of the ardent—the elixir of life.... Our farmers sat down to a superb dinner, and cheerfully paid the landlord fifty cents for it—not as in the present times, when many bring snacks in their pockets and eat them while sitting at a fire kept up by the landlord for the guests of the hotel.”
As late as the 1790’s public dances were given here, and were attended by high and low, the different classes keeping to themselves, though without friction. (This mingling was doubtless due to the scarcity of music.) Here, too, the political parties celebrated their victories with great dinners, and endless speeches and toasts.
An old book gives this somewhat disconcerting glimpse of the village in 1818:
In passing through the place in 1818, Dr. Conrad Speece attempted to preach at night in the court house, but nearly failed, due to the insufficient light, and the rudeness of the boys. He spent the night at the tavern, and such were the sentiments uttered by the prominent gentlemen, and such the conduct of the young men frequenting the tavern, that he said the next day: “When Satan promised all the kingdoms of the world to Christ, he laid his thumb on Charlottesville, and whispered, ‘except this place, which I reserve for my own especial use’.”
This old hostelry in its day housed all the great men of the vicinity, and a great many from a distance.
Charlottesville was occupied by Sheridan’s Cavalry, U.S.A., arriving March 3rd, 1865, and leaving on the 6th. Their entry was from the West, and troops encamped in many sections of the town: “above the University,” South of the University (Piedmont), Belmont, Park Street, what is now Locust Grove, etc.
A committee from the University secured guards for that institution and it was uninjured. There was no burning in the town with the exception of the Woolen Mills, East Market Street, which had furnished material for Confederate uniforms. All approaching bridges were destroyed. Searching homes for hidden arms was almost universal, and there was considerable looting, followed in some instances by mobs of negroes and disorderly whites. A detailed, edited letter in the Magazine of Albemarle County History, Vol. 14, gives the following information:
“As a general thing the citizens suffered little. Parties were sent out in all directions, and did an immense amount of damage. Our country friends suffered dreadfully. Corn, meat, flour, hay, horses, and negroes were in great demand.... I suppose the County has lost many hundred horses, and from 1500 to 2000 negroes. Some families lost almost everything they had, their household stuff being taken away or destroyed.... Hundreds of watches must have been carried out of the County. Poor Mrs. Harper (Farmington) not only lost in servants and horses, but had her house ransacked from garrett to cellar.... Her pictures were spared, her wines, of course, all taken.... I told my servants they had my full consent to go, ... but none of mine left.” (Quartered in his home, 713 Park Street, were Col. Battersby, 1st N. Y. Lincoln Cavalry, his Hungarian orderly, and a negro servant.) “He and his orderly appeared to be perfect gentlemen and conducted themselves in all respects as our guests.” He furnished guards for two neighbors. “Col. Battersby had a fine Newfoundland dog.... He returned to my house the day after 12 his master left, and is now with me. I have written to Col. Battersby and sent my letter to Richmond to go by flag of truce.” Family tradition states that shortly after Appomattox the orderly came for the dog.
Col. Sheridan’s headquarters were successively No. 408 and No. 522 Park St. Major-General Wesley E. Merritt was quartered at 303 East High Street, and Major-General George A. Custer at The Farm—the beautiful house designed by Jefferson, now 1201 East Jefferson Street. It was at the time the home of Capt. Thomas L. Farish, C.S.A.
Capt. Farish was on Adjutant-General duty in South-side Virginia. He obtained leave to return to Albemarle for the protection of his family. He was captured in civilian dress and taken to the custody of Gen. Custer—in Farish’s own home. Receiving him, Custer said, “Capt. Farish, in these unusual circumstances, I don’t know whether it is my duty to ask you to take a seat or yours to ask me.” The civilian dress classed Farish as a spy, and Sheridan sentenced him to death by hanging. Workmen erected a scaffold beneath one of the giant white oaks on Farish’s lawn. Custer made persistent remonstrance, and in a discussion which lasted until midnight, obtained a change of sentence to parole. (See Farish’s narrative, Weekly Chronicle, Charlottesville, August 4, 1876—Alderman Library.)
At the close of the war the country was under military government. The civil courts were closed, right of public assembly denied, and the usual further restrictions. Government headquarters were in Richmond, and Military Commissioners controlled the separate counties under direction from the central offices. This occupation continued for two years. Albemarle was fortunate in the character of the U. S. Army officers who filled this difficult role. On the first of these—Captain Linn Tidball—several anecdotes remain. He was strict with the populace, but also with his soldiers, and more than once disciplined them for “unnecessary harshness in the discharge of duty.” One small incident was as follows:
A group of soldiers stationed at the Farish house (now the old wing of the Monticello Hotel), for a while amused themselves hanging out a Union flag so that it impeded the sidewalk before the building. They would then force all passers-by to halt and salute. War feeling was still too high for this to be accepted; the populace boycotted that walk and passed in single file down the middle of the street, with eyes straight ahead. After a few days this came to the attention of the officer. The flag was removed and the men reproved, on the grounds that to use the flag for purposes of malice or sport was degrading to its honor.
Another story:
One regulation was that Confederate uniforms might not be worn in public. This worked much hardship on the newly-returned soldiers, who had no other clothing and no means of procuring any. A committee waited on the Commissioner and requested some modification. His order was that all military buttons and insignia be removed from the coats, and the grey could then be used until it could be replaced. Some time later a young mountaineer was brought before him. The youth, in Confederate uniform, had fought in the streets with Union soldiers. When these soldiers had testified, the officer asked for the young man’s statement. He said he had never heard of any regulations 14 about his uniform. He was walking along and a soldier halted him and began to roughly cut off his buttons. “I thought he wanted them for his girl back home, and I knocked him down. Then them other fellows come up and they got me down.” The officer called for the severed buttons, gave them to the youth and said: “Take these home and give them to your girl. She may want to keep them. Have her sew plain buttons on your jacket, and in future, young man, don’t be so handy with your fists.”
Also, this officer showed exceptional confidence in the community. A distressing problem for the county was to provide for the returned men who lacked the essentials for resuming work and a normal life. A committee of three prominent men, headed by Col. Thomas Jefferson Randolph, grandson of Jefferson, visited the officer and asked permission to hold a public meeting for discussion of the situation. Col. Randolph stated that the committee would be personally responsible for the good conduct of the crowd, and would vouch for the propriety of all speeches. The officer not only gave his consent—he stated he would allow it to take place without guards. The meeting was held in the old Levy Opera House, now the Park View Apts., on the corner of Park and East High Streets. The contract was strictly observed on both sides.
It is interesting to note the sectional adjustment achieved in only a decade. On July 21, 1876, Memorial Services commemorating the first battle of Manassas were held in Charlottesville by the 19th Virginia Regiment. Tents were pitched in the court house yard, and banners stretched across the streets inscribed with appropriate mottoes. At the banquet, one toast was: “The American Union.” Col. R. T. W. Duke, C.S.A., responded, “May it endure for all time.” See Charlottesville Chronicle, July 28, 1876. Alderman Library, University of Virginia.
Monticello. Gitchell’s Studio
The home of Thomas Jefferson, designed and built by himself upon land inherited from his father—Colonel Peter Jefferson, member of the House of Burgesses and Lieutenant-Colonel of the County. The leveling of the mountain top began, 1768. Due to successive additions and alterations, completion of the buildings was later than 1809. Following the burning of Shadwell, his father’s home, Jefferson moved to Monticello (the Southwest Out Chamber) in 1771 and in 1772 brought his bride there. She was Martha Wayles Skelton, a young widow of twenty-three, distinguished for beauty and a graceful carriage. It was an exceptionally happy marriage, ended after ten years by her death. Of six children, only two daughters survived infancy. Both left descendants.
In 1781 Monticello was raided by British Tarleton’s troops, in pursuit of the refugeeing Governor and Legislature. Forewarned, the family escaped. There was no property damage. Upon his visit to America in 1824, Lafayette was a guest here, and a great public reception in his honor was held on the lawn.
Monticello remained Jefferson’s much loved home until his death there, July 4, 1826, aged eighty-three. Due to financial stress, it was sold in 1830 for $7,000. In 1836 it was purchased by Commodore Uriah P. Levy of the United States Navy for $2,700. With the exception of the Civil War period, when it was confiscated by the Confederate Government, it remained in the Levy family until sold to the Monticello Memorial Foundation, 1923. Much of the original furniture and many personal relics are on display.
Home of James Monroe, twice Governor of Virginia, U. S. Senator, Secretary of State and War, Minister to France and to England, and twice President of the United States. James Monroe was born in 1758 at his father’s home, Monroe’s Creek, Westmoreland County, Virginia. He studied at Williamsburg, served with distinction in the Revolutionary War, and practiced law for eighteen months in Fredericksburg. His removal to Albemarle was the fulfillment of a long-cherished plan, as his pleasant letters to Mr. Jefferson show. One reads as follows:
Ash Lawn. The “Cabin-Castle”. J. Rawlings Thomson
August 19, 1786. “I shall leave this (N.Y.) for Virginia. I have not relinquished the prospect of being your neighbor.... The house for which I have requested a plan may possibly be erected near Monticello. To fix there and to have yourself in particular, with what friends we may collect around for society, is my chief object, or rather the only one which promises to me ... real and substantial pleasure.” Writings of James Monroe, Stanislaus Murray, Hamilton, Vol. I, p. 158.
Mr. Jefferson’s reply is also pleasant.
“To Colonel Monroe from Jefferson, December 18, 1786. Paris. When I return, 18 which will be early in the Spring, I shall send you ... the plan of your house. I wish to heaven you may continue in the disposition to fix it in Albemarle. Short (Washington’s Minister to Holland) will establish himself there, and perhaps Madison may be tempted to do so. This will be society enough, and it will be the great sweetener of our lives.” Papers of Thos. Jefferson, edited by T. J. Randolph, Vol. II, p. 69.
In August, 1789, Monroe removed to his first Albemarle purchase—an 800-acre farm just west of Charlottesville. A portion of this tract is now included in the site of the University of Virginia, and known as Monroe Hill. This farm proved a disappointment, and in 1793 he bought the Carter tract. This adjoined Monticello on the north and William Short’s estate—then Indian Camp, now Morven—on the south. Monroe named his new home Highland, but by later changes of ownership it became North Blenheim and then Ash Lawn.
Due to Monroe’s prolonged absences—Washington, France, England—the development of the estate was delayed. Jefferson, and Monroe’s uncle, Joseph Jones, Chief Justice of Virginia, had oversight of planning and building. The exact date of the moving in is given in a letter from Monroe.
“November 22, 1799. I was yesterday at Monticello, where Mr. Jefferson informed me he proposed a visit to you ... I told him it would ... immediately appear throughout the nation. He declined the trip ... in the persuasion an interview might be had, by your making me a visit, in my new home, to which I move tomorrow.” Writings, Vol. III, p. 158.
As is well known, Monroe’s life was straitened by debt. Under this pressure, he wrote to Jefferson as early as 1814 of a plan to sell either his Loudon estate or that in Albemarle, adding:
“intending however, not to sell that in Albemarle unless the price be such as to indemnify me for the sacrifice I shall make in relinquishing a residence of 26 years’ standing, as mine has been, and near old friends to whom I am greatly attached.” Writings, Vol. V, p. 287.
The sale finally took place, January 1st, 1826, the price 19 being $18,140. The Monroes then resided at Oak Hill in Loudon County. In 1828 Mr. Monroe removed to New York City, where his death occurred, July 4th, 1831. His body was re-interred at Richmond, Virginia, July 5th, 1858.
Ash Lawn’s widely known boxwood garden is held, by local tradition, to have been designed by a French landscape artist who during Monroe’s presidency was engaged in work for Washington City. Certainly the old formal planting and the size of the slow-growing dwarf box (suffruticosa) do not clash with this belief.
The garden now is dominated by a marble statue of Monroe. This was presented to the president’s home upon the hundredth anniversary of his death, by the sculptor Attilio Piccirilli, whose work may be also seen in the capitol in Richmond and the Metropolitan Museum in New York.
Michie’s Old Tavern. J. Rawlings Thomson
This authentic eighteenth century tavern was moved, 1927, from its original site on the Buck Mountain Road in North Albemarle to its present location on Monticello Road. Before-and-after photographs show that while some later tamperings were done away with, the original structure was scrupulously preserved—with the exception of the cellar, whose massive slave masonry it was not possible to transport or reproduce.
This tavern bears the name of William Michie, son of the John Michie of Louisa County who in 1746 bought a one thousand, one hundred and fifty-two acre tract in that region from John Henry of Hanover County, father of Patrick Henry. John Michie made his home in this region in a great river bend, and named it the Horse Shoe. His sons shared in the development of the tract, and John Michie’s will, 1777, provided that each son should be confirmed in ownership of the acres he had brought under cultivation, before equal distribution of the remainder.
William Michie inherited in the Buck Mountain section, lived there, and on November 11, 1784, petitioned the court for “License to keep ordinary in my house.” William Michie became a large landowner, served as Magistrate and Sheriff, and died in 1811.
This old building displays an interesting exhibit of the accustomed furnishings of that period.
Lewis and Clark Statue. 1919.
Among the munificent gifts of Paul Goodloe McIntire to his native town—parks, playgrounds, public library; gifts to the University of Athletics, Fine Arts, Medicine, etc.—the most obvious are the statues in the city.
Sculptor, Charles Keck. Unveiled, November 21, 1919. This work is of the romantic school. It is a three-figure group; Meriwether Lewis, William Clark and Sacajawea, the young Indian guide with her papoose. In beauty of design and of execution it will repay prolonged scrutiny. The pedestal with its carved symbolism should not be overlooked.
Our present Main Street is the Colonial Three-chopt Road, which led from Richmond, passed Boyd’s Tavern and crossed the Rivanna at Secretary’s Ford—now the Woolen Mills (East Market Street). Crossing Mechum’s River it struck in a straight line for Woods’ (now Jarman’s) Gap. It was in use prior to 1746. Though not associated with the expedition, it was felt appropriate to place the explorers on a great early artery and facing into the West.
Young Meriwether Lewis—he was only thirty-five at death—was born in Albemarle in 1774. He was ‘Albemarle of Albemarle.’ The Lewis family was already old Virginia stock when Robert Lewis took up large holdings in what is now this county. He was Meriwether Lewis’s grandfather. He owned the handsome estate of Belvoir, near Cismont, and some ten thousand acres in other parts of the county. Meriwether Lewis’s mother was a granddaughter of ‘the great Landowner,’ Nicholas Meriwether, who came up from tide-water where he owned 23 large estates, and in 1727 patented in one body 17,952 acres, this being the first patent lying within the bounds of present Albemarle. Eight years later he made an addition of more than a thousand acres, adjoining, which became his home. He was Lewis’s great-grandfather. These were families of high standards and public service—vestrymen, magistrates, officers in the militia and the Revolution.
Our explorer’s birthplace, Locust Grove, was west of Charlottesville about seven miles. The name and site remain; the original house was burned. The village of Ivy is near it.
Meriwether Lewis was Jefferson’s secretary when the government determined upon exploration of the lands just purchased from France. He brilliantly headed this expedition—from St. Louis to the mouth of the Columbia River, 1803-06. Upon his return, Jefferson appointed him Territorial Governor of Louisiana. In 1809, while journeying to Washington city, he died by gunshot at an obscure country inn in Tennessee—whether by his own hand or that of others was not definitely known. A monument to him was erected at this spot by the Legislature of Tennessee, 1848.
By a few years, William Clark, joint explorer of the Pacific Coast, failed to be of Albemarle birth. Jonathan Clark of King and Queen County, Virginia, in 1734 took out holdings in the county. His dwelling was a plain house on the Stony Point Road very near the site of Buena Vista, the McMurdo residence. He had two famous grandsons; the elder, George Rogers Clark, was born in that cabin. The younger, William, was born in Caroline County where his father had inherited substantial property. William Clark’s later life was successful. He was appointed by Jefferson Territorial Governor of Missouri, and later became U. S. Agent for Indian Affairs. Died, 1838.
It is perhaps not always realized that Albemarle was the Louisiana Purchase. Three of the actors in this great drama—Jefferson, 24 Lewis and Monroe—lived here within a ten-mile radius. A circle with that diameter would include Monticello, Ash Lawn and Locust Hill. As members of a small and closely integrated social class these men knew each other intimately in private life. Despite the difference in age, Jefferson and Lewis had attended the same private classical school; Monroe had at one time studied law under Jefferson’s supervision.
Monroe came to Albemarle in 1789 and made it his home until his retirement from public life. His choice of home was dictated by his oft-expressed desire to be near Jefferson, their friendship being early formed and life-long. Thus, when this chance to acquire a vast territory arose, the men who handled it knew fully the respective qualities of each actor.
Sculptor, Charles Keck. Unveiled, October 19, 1921. This dynamic equestrian figure, of the romantic school, already ranks among the world’s “great action” sculptures. It is known that the artist, at its inception, came to Albemarle to study Virginia-bred horses and the Virginia seat in the saddle. A local horse-fancier demonstrated these points. The beautiful pedestal is enfolded in the superb wing-sweep of two symbolic forms—Faith and Valor.
Thomas Jonathan Jackson—Virginian by birth, graduate of West Point, distinguished in the Mexican War—resigned from the regular army, 1851, and became a Presbyterian elder and a professor of natural philosophy and artillery tactics at the Virginia Military Institute in Lexington. Ten years later, at the outbreak of the War-between-the-States, he entered the Confederate army and rose to a rank second in authority only to Lee. His military genius was fully recognized abroad, and his campaigns have long been studied in England’s military schools. General Jackson was killed, 1863, at the battle of Chancellorsville through the blunder of his own men. His age was thirty-nine.
Stonewall Jackson Statue. 1921.
George Rogers Clark Statue. 1922. J. Rawlings Thomson
Sculptor, Robert Ingersol Aitkin. Unveiled, January 6th, 1922. This seven-figure group portrays the mounted Conqueror of the North West in conference with a standing Indian chief, who shares the central focus. Their attendants complete the vital and finely balanced conception. A surrounding planting of pine suggests a forest atmosphere.
This frontier military leader was born in Albemarle County, 1752, on the Stony Point Road. His family removed to Caroline County when he was five years of age, and he early migrated to Kentucky. Upon the coming on of the Revolution he threw himself ardently into the protection of the exposed northwestern regions. At Williamsburg he presented their dangers to the Assembly and obtained a military commission 27 for their defense against British and Indian forces. He was in chief command and rose to Brig. General. During this period, 1778-1783, he was a popular idol and was called “the George Washington of the West.”
His later life was tragically darkened by debts contracted for the necessities of his men and never made good by Virginia. Political intrigue and calumny added to his misfortunes. He died in poverty and neglect near Louisville, Kentucky, 1818.
Sculptor, Leo Lentelli. Unveiled, May 21, 1924. This equestrian figure of Lee is in monument style. The block which it occupies was from 1929 the Southall-Venable home.
Lee Statue. 1924. J. Rawlings Thomson
Miniature Model of Lee. 1937. J. Rawlings Thomson
Robert Edward Lee was born, 1807, at Stratford, Virginia, of distinguished ancestry. The family’s founder came to Virginia in the reign of Charles I, and became the colony’s Secretary of State and a member of the privy Council of Virginia.
A graduate of West Point (later its Superintendent), and distinguished in the Mexican War, Lee had resigned from active service when Lincoln offered him command of the Federal forces in the field. With a heavy heart he declined. (He had earlier freed his slaves.) Writing on the eve of the crisis, he said “—I can anticipate no greater calamity for the country than the dissolution of the Union.... Still a Union that can only be maintained by swords and bayonets ... has no charms for me. If the Union is dissolved and the Government dispersed, I shall return to my native State and share the miseries of my people, and, save in defense, will draw my sword no more.”
After the war, Lee set himself to heal the wounds of his people. He refused public office and became President of Washington College (now Washington and Lee) in Lexington. Died, 1870.
“Lee’s high character, his moral courage, his noble nature, and his mastery of the art of war, make him a notable figure in history.”
Sculptor, Henry M. Shrady. Presented by the Honourable and Mrs. Alexander Wilbourne Weddell through the Richmond Chapter of the United Daughters of the Confederacy. 1937. This charming equestrian figure of the Confederate General, by Shrady, was executed as the first step in a heroic statue commissioned by Mr. McIntire. The sculptor’s sudden death prevented the fulfillment of this contract, but Charlottesville is fortunate in owning this model of the artist’s noble conception.
In the 1870’s the town’s postmaster lay in his final illness. In the manner of the day a friend sat beside his bed and extolled the blessedness of heaven. The old gentleman assented quietly, adding, “but I believe I should prefer to compromise and remain in Charlottesville.”
