Title: It's Fun to Sew a Cotton School Dress
Author: Theta Johnson
Release date: January 27, 2020 [eBook #61261]
Language: English
Credits: Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Lisa Corcoran and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE
OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY, CORVALLIS
PHASE 3
4-H CLUB SERIES L-87
Prepared by
THETA JOHNSON
Clothing Specialist, Extension Service
Utah State University
Logan, Utah
Read this book from cover to cover before you start your project.
This project is for you who have learned the lessons of Clothing Phases 1 and 2. You are now ready to do more advanced sewing.
Third phase clothing features clothing for school and play. It includes points on health and good grooming for you to study and use. You will learn to stretch the life of your clothes. Take turns leading discussions and giving demonstrations for your club. Look at “Tips for Easier Sewing,” page 13. They will aid you in improving your sewing.
Make one of these articles:
This will help you review what you learned in the other projects and to get the feel of using the sewing machine.
Make one of these articles:
Your county extension agent will give you a clothing record sheet and a sheet for your 4-H Club story for this year. Place them in front of last years’ records. Keep your records as you go. You may record the articles you make other than those that are required for your project, unless you have made them for some other program or class. Keep a record of the activities you participate in (such as tours, demonstrations, judging, camps, and exhibits) for your permanent record.
Give a demonstration at one of your club meetings. Show others what you have learned. When you show another club member how to tie a knot or sew on a button, you are giving a “demonstration.” Things that are done or seen are remembered longest and clearest. Work alone or with a partner. Plan to enter a community or county demonstration contest. Ask your leader for help on how to give a demonstration. Choose a topic you will study in your project.
You will have fun making and buying clothing for school or play. Plan this project with your leader and your mother. Remember that mother is a partner in this project. Talk to her about what you want to make and show her this project book. She will be glad to give you suggestions and help you make a wise selection if she knows what you are to make.
First you will study how to buy and care for your anklets.
The first article you will make is to help you review what you learned in your last project and to help you get the feel of the sewing machine again. There is a wide choice—select something that you can make in a short time. Complete this article before you start your dress or skirt and blouse.
The second article is to be the main part of your project. Here you will learn many new sewing methods. Select something you have not made before. Choose something that will teach you two or three new tricks in sewing, but be careful to avoid dresses with many details such as collars, cuffs, and sleeves on one pattern.
It is important that you learn to select your own clothing. Why not start with buying your anklets? You will wear anklets for many occasions—sports, school, and best. Select them for the occasion for which you intend to wear them.
You will find anklets made of many fibers—cotton, rayon, nylon, wool, or a combination of these fibers. Each of these fibers makes the anklets feel and wear differently. Cotton anklets are soft and absorbent. They are comfortable to wear. A good quality cotton anklet holds its shape and wears well.
Rayon anklets are not as soft or as absorbent as cotton and may not wear as well. Nylon anklets are made of staple yarn (silk-like) and of spun yarn (wool-like). They give long wear but are not as comfortable as cotton. This is because they are not as absorbent. Wool socks are usually worn by athletes and people whose feet perspire a lot, because they are absorbent. They will hold a lot of moisture and not feel wet.
A combination of cotton and nylon makes a desirable anklet. You will find anklets made of cotton with toes and heels reinforced with nylon for longer wear. Blends of nylon and cotton or other fibers are also used. Anklets are made of many new and different kinds of yarns and knits to add patterns and stretch. New finishes are also used. Some finishes help to hold the shape and control shrinkage. The finish may require special care and washing.
A good anklet is closely knit, has a top which will hold its shape, and the cuff is knitted to the foot. It comes in colors which harmonize with your dresses or sweaters and skirts. It is “fast color” and will not fade.
To be comfortable anklets should be one half inch longer than your foot. Short socks are injurious to your feet. They do not wear as long as properly-fitted ones.
Visit your store to study the newest types of socks for teenagers.
Good care will help your anklets to last longer. Wash your socks after each wearing. Use a mild soap or detergent and warm water. Have the water as hot as you can comfortably hold your hands in. Rinse the socks thoroughly in clear water and hang them by the toes to dry. White socks may be washed with the family laundry. Always wash dark-colored ones by hand.
Study the care of your hair for your good grooming lesson. Learn to comb, brush, shampoo, and arrange it. Invite the beautician or hair dresser in your community to talk at a club meeting. She will be glad to show you how to care for and style your hair. Have her show you how to make pincurls, waves, or rolls.
Shiny, clean-looking hair adds to your good looks. It shows the condition of your 3 health. Poor health, lack of rest, or poor food can make your hair look dull. But more often, dull hair is due to lack of care. You can add to the luster of your hair by shampooing it often. Brushing will also add to its beauty.
The base of any good hair style is a good shampoo. There is no set time for a shampoo. Shampoo your hair when it is soiled. You may want to shampoo it every five days if your hair is oily. Every week may be often enough if it is dry.
Use plenty of warm water and a good shampoo when you wash your hair. Shampoos are made for oily, normal, and dry hair. Ask the beautician which one is best for your hair. Rinse thoroughly to remove the shampoo and to add luster to your hair.
Since your hair is a frame for your face, a nice arrangement adds to your good looks. Hair worn in a simple style is easy to manage. Good hair styling is important. If your hair is shaped properly, it will take the shape of the cut. Your hair styling will then be beautiful and becoming.
Here is a trick for finding your hair style. When your hair is wet, mold it around your face and try several parts. Try curving your part. It is more interesting than a straight one. Always bring out your beauty spots. If you have a beautiful hair line, display it.
Hair is styled for the individual. Try new hair styles. There are many designed for girls your age.
Brush your hair regularly with a boar-bristle brush for stimulation and to cleanse your hair. Brush your hair carefully. Too vigorous brushing may break the ends of your hair. The same is true of combing.
Set your hair in pincurls as often as is necessary to have your hair look well-groomed. Comb your hair thoroughly when it is dry. Set the waves or curls by combing through the hair slowly. This gives you control of your hair.
There are many attractive clothing patterns in our current fashion books. Choose a style you like and feel you can make. Be sure it has lines that are becoming to your figure and size. You may need a style that is entirely different from the one your girl friend needs. Your mother and leader will be glad to help you make a choice. This is probably the first time you have used a pattern. Select one that has only a few pieces. Avoid details such as collars, set-in sleeves, and yokes. Select a pattern you can wear to school.
The size pattern you will need is determined by your bust measurement.
After you have selected your pattern, study the chart on the back of the envelope. It will tell you how much fabric you need and what trimmings to buy. Buy your pattern and fabric at the same time.
When you select your fabric, the important thing to think about is: What am I going to make from this fabric? When and where will I wear it? Then choose the right design, color, and weight for your pattern.
You will want fabrics that are pretty, fun to sew, and fun to wear.
What colors do you like best? Usually the colors you like are the ones that flatter you. Hold the fabric to your face to see how you will look in it. Does it make your hair, eyes, and skin look prettier? Will it go with other colors of the clothing you already own? Is it a color you can wear to school this fall? Is it a color you can find thread and trimming to match? It is the color for you if it meets all these requirements.
Study the fabrics for the size, color, and placing of the design in the fabric. Do you want to count the number of spots on it? Is the design too large or too small? A design that is small with interesting colors without one part of the design being brighter than all others will make the prettier dress or apron.
Larger, brighter, and bolder designs and colors make attractive beach robes and bags. You will find it more difficult to make an attractive dress or apron from plain colors, plaids, and stripes. Plain colors show every mistake you make and plaids and stripes are difficult to match. Border prints are used for pleated or gathered skirts. Try to match the design at the seams.
Cotton fabrics are beautiful and there are many types of fabrics made from cotton. Learn to recognize at least five: Percale, broadcloth, sail cloth, cotton satin, and terry cloth. There are many interesting novelty fabrics on the market. They have different weaves and finishes. When you visit the store see if you can find at least three novelty fabrics—embossed cotton, woven stripes, and a pattern weave.
I KNOW THESE FABRICS—DO YOU?
New finishes make cottons more crease resistant and easier to wash and iron. But finishes sometimes make fabrics harder to sew and press. You will find a finished cotton will make a crisper looking dress and will be worth the extra work it takes to press the seams while you are making it.
Read the information on the label on the end of the bolt. It will tell you if the fabric is color fast, shrink resistant, crease resistant, and either hand-or-machine washable. A good cotton fabric has all these features.
Examine a torn end of the fabric. If the ends and designs are uneven, look for another piece of fabric. An uneven fabric with a finish cannot be straightened and you will not be able to cut your dress on the straight of the grain. Crush the fabric in your hand. Select one that is soft and difficult to wrinkle.
Plan a shopping tour with your club. Take your mother with you so she can help you select fabrics for your projects.
Select all the fabrics you need for your project at one time. Choose colors and fabrics 5 that look good together. Remember that you will be wearing your blouse with your skirt so they must look well together. The bag or scarf you make must also harmonize with your skirt and blouse or your other clothes.
Also think about the time you will finish your dress and select a style and color that will be pretty then.
Before you go shopping, make a list of all the things you will need to buy for your project—equipment, fabrics, thread. If you did not have a tracing wheel and paper last year, you may need them this year. Make it a habit to buy everything you need in one trip to the store.
| Fabrics for— | Check what you need | |
|---|---|---|
| Dress or skirt | ||
| Beach bag or robe, scarf, or apron | ||
| Thread to match | ||
| Fasteners, hooks and eyes | ||
| snaps | ||
| zipper | ||
| buttons | ||
| velcro | ||
| Pattern, size | ||
| Scissors | ||
| Pins, dressmaker | ||
| Measuring gauge | ||
| Needles—7-9 sharp | ||
| Thimble | ||
| Tape measure | ||
Study the instruction sheet carefully before you unfold your pattern. This will help you know each piece of your pattern as you unfold it. When unfolding it, put your initials on each piece.
You will find an arrow on each piece of the pattern that tells you how the pattern is to be placed on your cloth. This mark is called the “grain line.” Learn to recognize marks for fold, seamline, darts, tucks, hems, center front and center back, buttons, and buttonholes.
When you can recognize all the marks on your pattern, trim off the edges and pin it together. Have your leader check it for fit. She will help you make any alterations that are necessary.
Study your fabric. You will find there are threads running lengthwise (warp threads) with other threads woven in and out of these (crosswise or filling threads). Each of these threads should be straight, not curved or slanted. If the end of the fabric has not been torn, pull one thread near the end that will go all the way across the fabric. Cut along this line.
Now if the ends of the fabric are not even, have your leader or mother help you straighten the cloth by pulling on the bias, as is being done in the picture.
When the cloth is straight, pin the edges together. Now pin the pattern to your cloth.
Crease-resistant fabric cannot be straightened.
You need a large smooth surface for pinning and cutting. A big table is best, but you can use a clean floor.
Study your pattern layout. Fold your cloth and pin your pattern as suggested. Place the big pattern pieces on first. See that the line that shows the straight of the grain is placed exactly on the lengthwise “grain” or thread of the cloth.
Measure from the selvage to this line, making sure the distance is equal at all points. Pin at each end of mark as measurements are made. Now pin around the edge of your pattern. Place the pins at right angles to the edge.
Have your leader check the pattern on your cloth before you cut.
Use long sharp shears. Take long strokes to give an even edge. Cut close to the pattern.
Cut notches out, not into your seam allowance.
Before you remove the pattern, mark all darts, tucks, seams, buttons, and buttonholes. Ask your leader to show you how to make tailor’s tacks or how to use dressmakers’ tracing paper. Use the lightest-colored paper that will show on your cloth. Page 13 tells you more about guide lines.
Before you start to sew, check the machine stitch. Your seams will not hold if the stitch is not perfect. Try your machine stitch on a double piece of cloth. Stitch on the bias and the straight. Does the stitch look the same on both sides? If not, have your leader adjust the tension while you watch to see how she does it.
For a review of what you learned about the sewing machine in your other projects, practice sewing on a sample of your fabric until you get the feel of the machine. When you can run the machine smoothly, make one of the following articles for practice—scarf, draw-string bag, apron, or swimming robe.
A cloth guide on your machine will aid in making the stitching straight. Place a strip of colored scotch tape on the machine ⅝ inch, or the width desired, from the needle if a gauge is not available. Keep the edge of the cloth along the inside of the tape or guide as you sew. Watch the edge of the tape not the machine needle.
The pressure foot is a good gauge for edge stitching. It is easy to stitch close to the edge of a hem if you let the edge of the cloth follow the inside of the presser foot. A ⅛ inch seam can be made by letting the edge follow the outside of the presser foot.
You may make a draw-string bag to review what you learned last year. This may be any size. It can be used for your sewing, swimming suit, as a hand bag, or for many other purposes.
Fabric: Percale, sail cloth, denim, terry cloth, or towel. If you use a towel, select one approximately 14 x 23 or 18 x 28.
Lining: Plastic bag.
Cording: Cotton or nylon cording.
First decide how long and how wide you would like to have your bag. Make it just large enough for the purpose you plan to use it for. Don’t make it too large.
1. Pull threads to straighten material and cut on these lines.
2. Cut two pieces of cloth for the bag, the size you want your bag to be. If you have enough cloth, you may cut one piece twice as long and eliminate the bottom seam. When a towel is used, remove the hems at both ends.
3. Place the two pieces with right sides together or fold through the center if one piece is used.
4. Pin or baste sides leaving the top open.
5. Measure from the top or open end of the bag ½-inch and mark with chalk.
6. Take another measurement from the top, this one 4 inches down and mark.
7. Stitch a ½-inch seam from top to first mark, and fasten or back tack thread. Stitch below second markings. Leave the space between markings open on both sides of bag.
8. Make a ¼-inch slash in the seam at lower markings and finish openings with ½-inch hems.
9. Make a 2-inch hem at top. Stitch through the center of the hem to make a 1-inch wide casing and heading. If you are making a swimming bag, why not line it with plastic. Either use a sheet or plastic bag. Make it the same size as your bag.
At this point place the plastic under the hem. Pin or baste into position. Turn right side out. Stitch hem. Use long stitches 6 or 8 to an inch when sewing plastic. Small stitches will cut it.
10. Make or buy the cords for your bag. Make two cords ¾ inch wide finished, 1 yard each in length. (See apron sashes—Phase 2.) You may buy cotton or nylon cord. For a small bag use size 100; use size 150 for a large bag.
11. Run cords through casing. Start each cord at opposite ends. Sew ends of cord together or tie a knot.
12. Box the bottom of the bag. Fold from corner so that side and bottom seams are together. Mark and stitch across triangle.
Swimming is now a popular sport in Oregon so you may want to make a swimming robe.
You may make one like the one pictured or select an easy-to-make pattern from your favorite pattern book. Or, adapt an overblouse pattern. Just cut it long enough to cover your swim suit.
Here is an easy one to make. It is mostly hems.
Fabric: Approximately 1⅔ yards of terry cloth, sail cloth, percale, denim, or other absorbent cotton.
1. Fold fabric in half lengthwise.
2. Measure in from cut end 17 inches and mark.
3. Measure down from top 12 inches to mark arm hole. Then measure across end 2 inches on each side of mark. Cut along these marks. This marks the top of the side dart.
4. Mark dart. Measure 4 inches from bottom and mark. Then mark from this point to top ends of dart. (See diagram.) Make final marks for darts with tailor’s tacks or dressmakers’ tracing paper.
1. Fold robe through dart and armhole. Pin and stitch shoulder seams. Make shoulder 10½ inches long. Measure from arm hole. Make a 2-inch seam.
2. Pin underarm dart—2 inches wide at underarm and slope to a point 4 inches from bottom. Stitch. (See darts page 13.)
3. Press a 1½-inch hem all around robe including shoulder seams and armholes (see phase 1). To make hem turn edge back 2 inches and press, then press ½ inch under to make 1½ inch hem.
Press, pin, and stitch hems in this order: First—front; second—neck; third—armscye; fourth—bottom.
Stitching the hems in this order will leave the ends of the hem open so a draw-string can be placed in the top and bottom hem. If a draw-string is not used, the front hem may be made last.
4. Reinforce underarm with bias or hem tape.
Machine stitch around edge.
If you did not make an apron or scarf in your second year of club work, you may choose to make one of these now. Turn back to your second-year outline for these instructions.
If you have completed and judged your small article, you are ready to start your main article. You may make a skirt and blouse, or a dress. You talked this over with your mother and leader at your first meeting. By now you should have your fabric and pattern and all the other things you will need to make your chosen article.
If you make a blouse, select a pattern which will be easy to make. Choose a pattern with few pieces and without set-in sleeves or collar.
Follow the directions in your pattern for making your blouse. Learn what all the markings mean. Stay-stitch the bias edges. Page 13 tells you how to stay-stitch.
Select cloth for your blouse that will look good with your skirt. Be sure the cloth is firm, pre-shrunk, and colorfast.
Select fabric that is colorful and gay for your skirt. Closely woven cloth will be easy to sew and will hold a sharp crease.
You will need from 3 to 3½ yards of fabric for your skirt. The more fabric you try to gather in your skirt the harder it will be to make. For the girl of average height cut your skirt as follows:
Cut or tear a 6½-inch strip from one side of your skirt fabric. Measure in from the selvage edge. Use this for the skirt band and pockets. There will be some left over.
Tear off the selvage edge from the large piece.
You may have to cut the band from the end of your fabric instead of the side if you are tall and need the extra length.
The above method of cutting gives you one seam on the placket side.
Sometimes the design in the fabric will be more attractive if the skirt is cut in several lengths. When this is necessary, you will have three or four seams in your skirt. This may make a difference in the amount of fabric you will need, so decide how you will cut your skirt before buying your fabric.
5″
1¼″ SEAM
Pin the short edges together to make the side seam. Make the seam 1¼ inches wide. It is to be used for the placket. When finished the placket will be on the left side.
Stitch the side seam. Stitch the seam from the bottom up. At a point 5 inches from the top, turn and stitch half way across the seam. Turn both edges of the seam toward the front section and press.
5″
TRIM TO ⅝″
Trim the seams. Start at the bottom of the wide seam and trim it to ⅝ inch wide up to the placket. Do not trim above this point.
1. Baste and stitch a ¼-inch hem on the back edge of the placket.
¼″ HEM
SKIRT BACK
2. Fold the front edge of the placket even with the seam line. Press. Now fold again to make a complete hem. Baste.
⅝″ FOLD
SKIRT FRONT
3. Pin placket together, stitch from the top to the bottom of the placket, turn and stitch across the end on top of first stitching. Pull threads through and tie ends. This is a strong, easy-to-make placket.
¼″ HEM
BACK
⅝″ HEM
FRONT
Skirts look best with hand-stitched hems. Make the hem before placing the band on the skirt. Unless you have poor posture, it will hang even. Decide how long you would like your finished skirt to be. Be careful not to make it too short. Measure from the top edge to the length you would like the skirt to be and press in the hem. Turn the top edge of the hem under ½ inch. Your skirt will be prettier if you make a wide hem—3 inches or wider.
When the hem has been carefully pressed and put in place, ask your leader to show you a hand hemming stitch.
Make a long stitch on your machine. Use size 50 top thread and heavy duty for bobbin thread.
Using the guide on your machine, stitch around the top of your skirt ¼ inch from the edge. Make two more rows ¼ inch apart. You are now ready to make your skirt band.
1. Measure your waist. Add 2½ inches. This will give you the length needed for your skirt band. Cut your band 6½ inches wide.
2. Press a ½-inch fold along one side of your band. From the folded edge divide the rest into three sections. This gives three 2-inch sections. Make the section with the ½-inch fold slightly shorter than the other two sections. Press.
3. The section with the ½-inch fold is the front of your band. Stitch criss-cross through the back part of the band. You can stitch straighter if you make a guide or pattern. Cut a strip of waxed paper the length and width of your band, 24 x 2 inches.
Fold it in six equal sections. Then fold it diagonally; then diagonally again. Open the paper and pin it to the band and follow the creases in the paper. This will give practice on starting and stopping the machine and on turning corners. Tear the paper away after the stitching is completed.
4. Stitch a ½-inch seam at the ends of the band. Turn and press. Do not sew the ½-inch fold at bottom of band into the seam.
Divide both your skirt and the skirt band into eight equal parts to help you make the gathers even in your skirt. Do not include the placket or 1-inch overlap at the end of the band. Mark with colored threads. Mark the skirt band so the extension or extra length will be on the back of the placket. The front of band will be even with the front edge of the placket.
Pin and stitch band to skirt.
Pin the pieces together, right side of skirt to right side of band. Match dividing marks that you have made. Gently pull on the gathering threads at the side seams, the center front and the center back. Pull the threads until they are the same length as the band. Work with the gathers until they are even. Baste and stitch along half-inch fold on the skirt band.
Fold the double section of your band toward the back and baste the edge of the band to the skirt. Baste it so the folded edge hangs just below the stitching you just made on the front side of the band. Machine stitch from the front side of the band. Place the stitching as near the edge of the band as you 12 can. Press before you stitch. Pressing will flatten the seam and make stitching easier.
Press your skirt. Use a dampened cheesecloth and an iron set for ironing cotton, or use a steam iron. A skirt must be well pressed and fresh looking to be pretty.
See Phase 2.
You may make a four-gored skirt. If you do, you will need a pattern. Follow the instructions on the guide sheet.
This is your first dress. Avoid set-in sleeves, collars, yokes, and gussets. Use cotton fabrics. Study the instruction sheet in your pattern and follow it as closely as you can. Know what every mark on the pattern means before you start to sew. This will make it easier for you.
Pin your cloth so it is straight. Place the pattern on the “straight of the grain” and cut with long, even strokes. Cut all the notches pointing out.
After the cloth is cut, transfer the marks onto the fabric before removing the pattern. Use a tracing wheel whenever possible. Use tailor’s tacks on white or pastel colors.
Stay-stitch around all the bias and curved edges as soon as you remove the pattern.
Remember to press as you sew. Press each seam as it is made. Pressing makes sewing easier and improves the looks of your dress.
Hem your dress on the sewing machine if it has a full gathered skirt or by hand on flared or straight skirts or on plain colored fabric. Use a matching thread.
Once again, score your own and other club members’ work. Record your judging on your own work in your record book. These are the points to use in judging.
| Your score | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. | Fabric or trimming used | 25 | |
| Is it suitable for school or play? | |||
| Will it launder? | |||
| Will it wear well? | |||
| 2. | Workmanship | 35 | |
| Are they well made? | |||
| Are seams, hems, finishes good choices? | |||
| 3. | Design and color | 20 | |
| Are design and color attractive? | |||
| Are they right for you? | |||
| 4. | Condition of article | 10 | |
| Is it clean? | |||
| Is it well pressed? | |||
| 5. | Value of garment | 10 | |
| Is there good value for the time and money spent? | |||
| Total | 100 | ||
It takes very little time to trace the markings for darts, seams, and buttonholes from the pattern on the fabric if dressmakers’ carbon and a tracing wheel are used. Trace the markings while the pattern is still pinned to the fabric. Place the carbon waxed side to wrong side of fabric. Both sides may be marked at the same time. Use white or light-colored paper wherever possible. Dark colors have a tendency to work through to the right side. Trace all pattern markings that are essential to making the dress—darts, notches, pleats, openings, and buttonholes. Use a ruler to trace straight lines. Make a bar at ends of darts and tucks. Use tailor’s tacks for white or pastel fabrics.
Using tailor’s tacks
Use double thread of darning cotton to make tailor’s tacks.
Before taking your first stitch make a hole in the pattern with the point of your needle. Take one stitch through pattern and double thickness of fabric, then go over with another stitch, leaving loop and long end.
After all marked stitches have been made, remove pattern, separate fabric carefully, and clip threads between the two layers of fabric.
One of the most important steps you take to keep the cloth from stretching out of shape is to stay-stitch the edges. Stitch along the curved and bias edges. These edges would be the neck, shoulders, waist, armscye, and upper hip line. Stay-stitching is done on each piece separately, through a single thickness. Stitch ½ inch from the edge of the cloth, or ⅛ inch from seamline.
The purpose of the dart is to shape the fabric to the body. After the dart is properly marked, pin the two markings together and stitch from the large end of the dart to the point. Near the point, guide the fabric so that the stitches will be only a thread or two from the edge of the fold. Fasten the threads by back stitching or by tying the threads.
Sew from the highest to the lowest point or from the widest to the narrowest point, 14 as shown by arrows on the diagrams to prevent stretching during stitching.
The life of your clothing is determined by the kind and quality of its seams. There are many types of seams and seam finishes. Each one has a special purpose.
The plain seam is the most commonly used and is the first step in making other types of seams. The plain seam is made on the wrong side of the garment. To make a plain seam, place the right sides of the fabric together. Pin and sew a seam the desired width. This is usually ⅝ inch. Follow the instructions in your pattern. Use this seam on your blouse, skirt, and dress.
Finishes are used on fabrics to prevent the edges from fraying. Use one of the following finishes:
Use pinking shears, if you are able to handle them. Trim off only the very edge of your seam. Be very careful.
After the plain seam is pressed open, machine stitch along each edge of the seam. This is a stronger finish than the pinked edge.
The selvage may be left as a seam finish on your skirt. Clip the selvage every 2 or 3 inches. The clip should be no deeper than ⅛ inch. A deeper cut will ruin the seam.
Your seams are not complete until you have pressed them. Remember, always press a seam before joining it to another seam.
Edges that cannot be hemmed may be finished with either bias or fitted facings. Facings can be turned to the right or wrong side of an article. They may be part of the decoration if used on the right side.
1. Stay-stitch neck and shoulders.
2. Insert a basting line to mark center front and back of the facing and blouse. Use darning cotton.
3. Sew shoulder seams of blouse and facing. Press.
4. Press a ¼ inch hem around the facing. Miter the corners and stitch.
5. Pin facing to blouse, matching shoulder seams and centers. Baste centers of front and of back together.
6. Machine stitch
a. Stitch around the neckline, ⅝ inch seam. b. Stitch center front. Start at point ¼ inch from center fold, stitch to point B. B. is almost on center fold. Turn, take 3 small stitches (14-16/inch), turn again, and stitch to point C, ¼ inch from center fold.
7. Cut along center fold to point B. Trim neck seam to ¼ inch and clip seam every ½ inch.
8. Trim off corners at neck openings.
9. Turn facing and press. After facing edge is finished, tack it to the shoulder seam of blouse.
If the facing is to be used for decoration, the edge of the facing will be stitched to the blouse or dress.
You made straight hems on your scarf and on your apron last year. Here is a general review on how to make a hem. If you need more help, see your last year’s bulletin.
Make a fold ¼ inch wide; press. Fold this over and press again. Pin and stitch.
Make ¼-inch fold along the edge. Then measure the width your hem is to be when finished. Pin, press, and stitch.
1. Use a yardstick or other device to measure the distance you want your skirt from the floor. Mark with pins, about 3 inches apart around the skirt.
2. Fold along the pin-line. Pin and baste along edges of hem. Pin top of hem to skirt.
3. Try the dress on to check length and evenness of hem.
4. Trim hem to desired width. The width of the hem is determined by weight of fabric and fullness of skirt.
Suggested widths—
| Moderately flared and medium weight | 2 to 3 inches |
| Straight skirt of sheer fabric | up to 4 inches |
| Heavy skirts of wool or cotton | 2 inches or less |
| Flared skirts | 1½ inches |
| Circle skirts | ¼ inch or rolled |
5. In circular skirts the top of the hem is always much fuller than the bottom of the hem. To avoid a bulge, draw this fullness to lie flat against the skirt. Lengthen the stitch on the machine and sew around top of the hem ¼ inch from the edge. Place another row of stitches ¼ inch from the first row. Pin the seams and centers of panels and draw the bobbin thread until the top part of hem is only slightly larger than the skirt. Ease in the fullness. This step is not necessary on straight skirts.
6. Make a ¼-inch fold at the top of the hem. Machine stitch along edge. Pin and baste in place. Hem on the machine or by hand. Use matching thread.
1. Fasten thread securely in the hem.
2. Take a stitch directly across from the spot where you first placed your thread. Then take a ½-inch stitch through the top of the hem.
3. Take a stitch in the skirt in the same spot where you pulled needle from the hem.
4. Repeat for each stitch.
This stitch hides the threads in hem and wears well.
What type of fasteners does your pattern suggest? You have skill enough now to make any one of several types. Remember, choose the kind of fasteners you can make yourself and do them the very best you can.
You have already learned the method of sewing on buttons, snaps, and hooks and eyes. If you use any of the fasteners, sew them on securely. See Phase 2. Make your buttonholes with a machine attachment.
A zipper may be necessary if you make a dress. Read the instructions that come with your zipper and study your pattern for help in putting it in your dress.
You might like to put belt loops on your dress at the side seam if your dress has a belt. Worked loops are fun to make.
1. Use matching double thread.
2. Hold the belt in place on dress and loop thread back and forth across it three or four times. Take a knot stitch each time you sew into fabric.
3. Remove the belt.
4. Work across the threads with blanket stitch. Keep stitches close together.
Select a belt for your dress at your local store or have one made to match your dress. You will learn to make belts when you have had more experience in sewing.
Your record book is important. Are you enjoying keeping a record of the things you make and do? Have you recorded the articles you have made? Have you recorded the activities you have participated in on your permanent record? How complete is this chapter of your 4-H Club story? Are there other things you should add—while you can still remember?
Are you keeping a scrapbook of pictures and newspaper clippings to round-out your 4-H Club story? Are you keeping other kinds of things such as certificates and ribbons in your scrapbook? If you belong to more than one club are you keeping all of the things that have to do with each project together?
Showing others what you have made can be fun. Plan with your club to have a display for your mothers and fathers. Share with them the things you have learned in making your projects. If you exhibit at the fair your exhibit will be the main article you made. Be sure that it is clearly labeled so that it can be returned to you.
There are many opportunities to share the things you have learned with others by giving demonstrations. Watch for these opportunities—other than your club meetings.
Select one of the demonstrations you prepared for your club or prepare a new one. Here are a few suggestions from which you might choose.
1. Have you kept your record book up to date and had it signed?
2. Have you studied health and good grooming?
3. Have you made two or more articles?
Keep this bulletin. You will need it for your next project. When you have completed all the 4-H clothing projects, you will have a complete sewing book.
Cooperative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics, F. E. Price, director. Oregon State University and the United States Department of Agriculture cooperating. Printed and distributed in furtherance of Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914.
12M—September 1961.