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Title: Travels in Turkey and back to England

Author: Edmund Chishull

Author of introduction, etc.: Richard Mead

Release date: January 20, 2021 [eBook #64348]
                Most recently updated: October 18, 2024

Language: English

Credits: Turgut Dincer and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)


*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN TURKEY AND BACK TO ENGLAND ***

                                 TRAVELS
                                   IN
                                 TURKEY
                               AND BACK TO
                                ENGLAND.

                    By the late Reverend and Learned
                        _EDMUND CHISHULL_, B. D.
                     Chaplain to the FACTORY of the
                 Worshipful TURKEY COMPANY at _SMYRNA_.

                             [Illustration]

                                _LONDON_,
              Printed by _W. Bowyer_ in the Year MDCCXLVII.




[Illustration]




THE PREFACE.


_No books are generally more entertaining and instructive, than the
accounts of travels into foreign countries; and especially those, which
are written in the way of_ Journals. _For he, who reads such narratives,
is almost apt to fancy himself in company with the traveler, and to take
part with him in all his adventures; which at the same time that they
shew the peculiar temper, customs, and manners of different nations,
excite also a variety of passions, which by their succession please the
mind, and make the chief delight even in theatrical performances._

_Upon this account it is, that the_ Letters _of_ Busbequius, _during his
embassy in_ Turkey; _and the_ Journies _of our ingenious and learned
countryman Mr._ Maundrell, _thro several parts of the same vast empire,
which he has so accurately described; are repeatedly read, and always
with new pleasure_.

_Therefore, when Mr._ Edmund Chishull, _only Son of the late Reverend_
Mr. Chishull, _who was for some years chaplain to the_ Factory _of our
Worshipful_ Turkey Company _at_ Smyrna, _brought to me not many months
since the present_ Journal _of his Father’s_ Travels, _desiring me to
peruse it, and give him my opinion, whether it was a work worthy to
be published; I could not refuse his request but applied myself with
due care to read and examine it. And I was the more readily induced to
this, as I had thro a course of many years the happiness of a perfect
acquaintance with his father, even from his return home to his death; and
knew him, as well from his conversation, as his writings (particularly
that justly celebrated book of his_ Antiquitates Asiaticae) _to be not
only a man of uncommon learning, but likewise of great sagacity, and
indefatigable diligence_.

_And indeed my pains in the perusal of these papers were very well
rewarded. For besides an agreable amusement common to other writings of
this nature, they gave me very useful instruction as to several passages
in ancient historians, and other classic authors; and at the same time
illustrated many old inscriptions, several of which are now first
published, and others taken with greater exactness, than had been done
formerly._

_Hence I could not but persuade the young Gentleman to oblige the world
with this work, and to have it printed in such a manner, as his freinds
should advise him. Tho I easily foresaw, that the doing of this would
necessarily be attended with some difficulties; as Mr._ Chishull _had put
into writing those occurrences, which he thought worthy of his notice,
at such leisure minutes, as he could snatch from the constant fatigues
of his journey; and by that means had sometimes not only thrown many
things together without exact order, but often left the places cited
from ancient writers to be supplied out of their own works. And besides,
his hand being both small and hasty, was frequently not very easy to be
read; so that many of the words, as to the manner of spelling, appeared
doubtful and uncertain. This made it needful to have the whole first
fairly transcribed, and then to fill up the quotations. The former
task therefore I committed to a professed penman, and the latter I
undertook myself. In the doing of which I not only carefully compared the
transcriber’s copy with the original; but had recourse to the authors
themselves, and took out of them the several passages, to which the
references were made._

_When Mr._ Chishull _left_ England, _he was fellow of_ Corpus Christi
_college in_ Oxford, _and had a grant of the traveler’s place from the
president and society. He set sail from the_ Downs _September the 12,
1698, in the_ Neptune _frigate, Capt._ Thomas _commander, and arrived at_
Smyrna _November the 19 following. During the voyage, agreably to his
usual diligence, he constantly kept a_ Journal _of what then offered.
But as nothing very remarkable occurred at sea; for that reason the
account of his_ Travels, _which is here published, begins with a_ Journey
_undertaken by him some months after his settlement at_ Smyrna. _However
as in his passage he went on shoar first at_ Cadiz, _then at_ Messina,
_and after that in the island of_ Milo; _in each of which places he made
several observations, which he afterwards sent in a_ Letter _from_
Smyrna _to Dr._ Thomas Turner, _president of his college: that_ Letter is
_likewise now published at the end of this book_.

_But as he has generally remarked the situation, government, and other
curiosities, of the most considerable cities, thro which he passed; it
may seem strange, that no account is here given of_ Smyrna, _the place
of his residence, and where, as he himself tells us, he continued from
November 19, 1698, to February 10, 1701-2. This however was occasioned by
his design of treating upon that place in a more distinct and particular
manner; for which purpose there is a large number of minutes, or heads,
detached in a separate part of the book, relating both to the antient and
present state of the city; which were afterwards to have been filled up,
and inlarged. Tho as they are now left, nothing more appears, that can be
of any service to the public, than what here follows._

The antiquities now extant in this place are these. The _castle_,
which was _Roman_, and where _Dolabella_ beheaded _Trebonius_. The
large head of _Smyrna_ the _Amazon_ over the gate of the same. The
inscription relating to _Joannes Ducas_ over another gate of the same,
with the modern oriental _eagle_ on both sides. The small remains of
the _theatre_, in which _S. Polycarp_ was burnt, lately taken to pieces
to build the _Vizír kane_ of the place, and _bezesten_, or _market_.
The reliques of _St. John’s church_. The space and walls of an ancient
_cirque_. All which are on the said castle hill, which immediately
overlooks the city. The ruins of the _temple of Apollo_ at the foot of
mount _Corycus_, in an olive grove, and over the θερμὰ ὕδατα. The ruins
of the _temple of Aesculapius_, or _Neptune_, in the way to _Eshekléer_;
where was lately found the head of _Janus_, and another of _M. Modius_.
A rich and delicate pavement of _mosaic_ work by the sea side, towards
the north, at a place where the outer wall terminates in the shore; which
possibly is the remains of the _gymnasium_, or some heathen temple. The
several _inscriptions_ there lately found, reported in _Prideaux_, or at
the end of this book. The large _stones_ of a yard and half square in
a great and massy wall, now part of a _kane_ in the _Armenian_ street,
on all of which is marked the letter V, as large as the breadth of the
stone would permit. The remains of an old _Roman_ way, paved with broad
and massy stones, but smooth, in the road over the castle hill toward
_Ephesus_. The remains of the ancient wall encompassing the _pomoerium_,
or a large space of ground about two thousand paces distant all round
from the castle, or the city. The scarcity of antiquities now to be found
in _Smyrna_ arises from hence, that it furnished the greatest part of the
_Marmora Arundeliana_.

_The inscriptions here said to be_ reported in Prideaux, _are to be found
in the Doctor’s edition of the_ Marmora Arundeliana. _And as to those
referred to_ at the end of our author’s book, _such of them will be here
subjoined, as are not in the large collection designed by him for a_
second part _of his_ Antiquitates Asiaticae; _of which a few sheets only,
containing those which relate to_ Ephesus, _were printed by him a little
before his death, and the rest are now in my possession_.

In a very pleasant valley near the bank of the river _Meles_, scarce
thirty paces without the city.

    ΜΕΝΟΣ[1]
    ΙΕΡΟΝ
    ΑΦΡΟΔΙΤΗΣ
    ΣΤΡΑΤΟΝΙΚΙΔΟΣ[2]
    ... ΟΥ ΗΔΕ Κ[ΥΚ
    ΛΩΙ] ΤΟ ΠΑΡΑΠ[ΑΝ[3]
    ...ΚΕΙΜ]ΕΝΟΝ ΑΠΟ ΤΩΝ
    ..Π]ΛΕΘΡΩΝ ΚΑΤΑ
    ΤΑΣΣΕΤΑΙ ΕΙΣ
    ΤΑΣ ΙΕΡΑΣ[ΜΗ
    ΤΡΟΣ ΟΔΟΥΣ[4]

On a hill near the castle.

    Τ. ΦΛ. ΕΥΕΙΔΗΣ ΔΙΑΔΕΞΑΜΕΝΟΣ ΤΗΝ
    ΜΗΤΕΡΑ ΦΛ. ΑΦΡΟΔΕΙΣΙΑΝ ΕΩΝΗΣΑΜΕΝΗΝ
    ΤΟ ΜΝΗΜΕΙΟΝ ΠΡΟΣΚΑΤΕΣΚΑΥΑΣΕΝ ΕΑΥ
    ΤΩ ΚΑΙ ΦΛ. ΤΥΧΗ ΤΗ ΓΥΝΑΙΚΙ ΚΑΙ ΦΛ. ΠΕΡ
    ΣΕΙ ΤΩ ΥΙΩ · ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙΣ ΚΑΤΟΙΧΟ
    ΜΕΝΟΙΣ [Illustration]

On a square stone in the house of the English consul, being of a later
age.

    ΒΕΒΙΑ ΑΠΦΕΙΝΤΟ ΘΩΡΑΚΕΙΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΕΝϹΟΡΙΑ
    ΚΑΙ ΤΗΝ ϹΟΡΟΝ ΤΗΝ ΕΠΙ ΤΩ ΘΩΡΑΚΕΙΩ
    ΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΟΙΚΗΜΑΤΑ ΠΡΟϹΚΕΙΜΕΝΑ · ΟΙΚΟϹ ΚΛΕΙΜΑΞ[5] ΚΟΙΤΩΝ
    ΜΕΔΕΙΑΝΟΝ ΤΡΙΚΛΕΙΝΟΝ ΟϹΤΟΘΗΚΑΙ. [Illustration] Β. Ϲ.
    ΕΚΕΛΥϹΙϹ ΕΑΥΤΗ ΚΑΙ ϹΥΝΤΡΟΦΩ ΤΩ ΑΝΔΡΙ
    ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙϹ ΤΕΚΝΟΙϹ ΑΥΤΗϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙϹ ΕΚΓΟΝΟΙϹ
    ΑΥΤΩΝ. ΧΑΙΡΕ [Illustration] ΚΑΙ ϹΥ.

_What he has said in relation to the present_ Smyrna, _is as follows_.

_Smyrna_ is situated in the latitude of 38_gr._ 40_m._ in a deep bay, that
enters within the continent about ten leagues; and is so well defended by
the _Erythraean_ promontory, now cape _Kara Bornu_, and mount _Corycus_,
with the hills commonly called _Cordilieu_, and its own windings, that
it is every where a port, affording good depths and secure anchorage.
Immediately within the bay are seven islands, lying in length towards the
port of _Vourlá_, antiently _Clazomenae_, which of old were called the
_Peristerides_; and the biggest of them, _Megale_, is now by the English
named _Long Island_, over against _Fochia Vecchia_, or _Phocaea_. Cape
_Kara Bornu_, or _Black Nose_ (antiently the ἄκρα μέλαινα) afforded, as
_Strabo_ says, excellent mill stones; which is not unknown to the present
inhabitants, and therefore we there see several mills now employed.
Within two leagues and a half of the city the _Hermus_ enters the bay,
and there forms a bed of sand; which being met by a point of land from
the opposite shore stops up the haven by a very narrow chanel, thus
rendring it κλειστὸς, as _Strabo_ then expressed it. On the said point
stands a new and strong fort, called _Sangiac Castle_; because the _Grand
Signior’s_ colours are there exposed, on occasions that require it. From
hence we sail towards _Smyrna_, in a fair and long arm of the sea, which
imitates the pleasures of a canal; whilst the woody mountains on each
side, with the city at one end, and the castle at the other, conspire to
give a mutual beauty to one another.

_Had our author lived to finish his elaborate account of_ Smyrna, _from
the large materials he had collected for that design, it would doubtless
have been a very useful work, and thrown much light upon many passages in
ancient writers. And indeed every part of his_ Travels _must certainly
have received great advantage and improvements from his review. Tho I
question not, but in their present state they will meet with such a
reception from the public, as will reward the labours of the learned
Father, by a proper incouragement given to his industrious Son._

_I shall only add, that some intimation having been given of a_ Map,
_designed to be published with this book that was judged afterwards not
so necessary, as at first was apprehended; since there are so many maps
already extant of those countries, which make the subject of these_
Travels. _And therefore as the principal use of such a map would have
been to exhibit both the ancient and modern names of several places,
which are mentioned by our author; an_ Index _was thought more commodious
for that purpose. Besides, as he has occasionally introduced many Turkish
and other foreign words, without explaining them; this affords likewise
an opportunity for their explication. As the benefit of the reader has
been consulted in this alteration; so it is not to be doubted, but he
will find the advantage of it in perusing the work._

August 12, 1747.

                                                                 R. MEAD.

[Illustration]




THE NAMES OF THE SUBSCRIBERS.


  A.

  _Lord Viscount_ Andover.
  Swithin Adee, _D. M._
  _Rev. Mr._ William Allen, _of_ Lambeth.
  _Rev. Mr._ Altham, _Rector of_ Woodford, _in_ Essex.
  Edward Andrews, _Esq;_
  _Rev. Mr._ Benjamin Archer.
  _Rev. Mr._ Richard Arnald, _Rector of_ Thurcaston, Leicestershire.
  _Rev. Dr._ Astrey, _Treasurer of_ St. Paul’s.


  B.

  Richard _Earl of_ Burlington.
  _Countess of_ Burlington.
  John _Lord_ Berkeley _of_ Straton.
  _Dr._ Martin Benson, _Lord Bishop of_ Gloucester.
  _Dr._ Joseph Butler, _Lord Bishop of_ Bristol.
  _Rev. Dr._ Baker, _Residentiary of_ St. Paul’s.
  _Sir_ John Barnard.
  _Mr._ Savage Barrell.
  Thomas Lennard Barrett, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ Solomon Barton.
  _Mr._ John Baxter.
  _Mr._ Jos. Baxter.
  _Rev._ Robert Beachcroft, _M. A._
  _Mr._ Thomas Beale.
  William Belchier, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ George Bell.
  _Sir_ Edward Bellamy.
  _Captain_ Bennett.
  William Henry Bernard, _Esq;_
  Elias Bird, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ James Bird.
  _Mr._ Alexander Black.
  _Mr._ William Black.
  William Blackbourne, _Esq;_
  _Rev. Mr._ Blackbourne, _Vicar of_ Dagenham.
  _Sir_ Henry Blunt, _Bart._
  _Mr._ Richard Blunt.
  William Blunt, _Esq;_
  John Bond, _Esq;_
  Daniel Booth, _Esq;_
  _Mrs._ Bowles.
  Benjamin Bosanquet, _M. D._ _4 Copies._
  Samuel Bosanquet, _Esq;_
  _Mrs._ Bosanquet.
  Samuel Bracebridge, _of_ Linley, _Esq;_
  Thomas Bradshaw _of_ Upminster, _Esq;_
  Thomas Bramston, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ Edward Brice.
  _Rev._ John Brice, _A. M._
  _Rev. Dr._ Ralph Bridges.
  _Rev. Mr._ Bruce.
  _Mr._ Samuel Buckley.
  _Mr._ Samuel Burch.
  _Mr._ George Burrward.


  C.

  William _Earl_ Cooper.
  John _Lord Viscount_ Castlemain.
  _Lord_ Charles Cavendish.
  _Lady_ Colerane.
  _Dr._ Edward Chandler, _Lord Bishop of_ Durham.
  _Dr._ Robert Clayton, _Lord Bishop of_ Clogher.
  William Cartwright _of_ Ayno, _Esq;_
  _Rev. Mr._ Castle, _Vice-Chancellor of_ Cambridge.
  Cawley Humberston Cawley, _Esq;_
  John Cay, _Esq;_
  _Sir_ John Chapman, _Bart._
  _Mrs._ Chelton.
  _Mr._ Richard Cheslyn.
  Dennis Clarke, _LL. D._
  _Mrs._ Mary Clarke.
  _Mr._ Richard Clarke, _Jun._
  _Mr._ Thomas Clarke.
  _Rev._ John Cleeve, _B. D._
  _Mr._ George Collard.
  _Mrs._ Collard.
  Valens Comyn, _Esq;_
  John Conyers, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ Richard Cooke.
  John Cookes, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ George Cornwall.
  _Mr._ William Cramond.
  _Mr._ George Crawford.
  _Mr._ Gideon Crawford.
  _Mr._ John Crichlowe.
  _Mr._ David Crichston.
  Sir John Cross, _Bart._
  Thomas Crowe, _M. D._
  _Mr._ John Cruikshank.
  _Rev._ Mr. Alexander Cuningham.


  D.

  William _Duke of_ Devonshire.
  William _Lord_ Digby.
  _Mr._ Thomas Davison.
  Richard Dawson, _Esq;_
  _Mrs._ Alice Deacon.
  _Mr._ Thomas Delamotte.
  _Dr._ Patrick Delaney, _Dean of_ Downe.
  _Mr._ William De Santhuns.
  _Mr._ William Dillingham.
  _Mr._ Robert Dobson.
  _Mr._ Woodroof Drinkwater.
  William Dunster, _Esq;_
  _Mrs._ Dunster.


  E.

  John _Earl of_ Egmont.
  _Mr._ Thomas Eames.
  John Eaton, _Esq;_
  Peter Eaton, _Esq;_
  Richard Edwards, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ George Ellis.
  _Mr._ John Ellis.
  _Rev._ John Emerson, _A. M._
  _Mrs._ Elizabeth Esson.
  _Sir_ John Evelyn, _Bart._
  Anthony Ewer, _Esq;_
  _Rev. Mr._ Ewer.
  _Mr._ William Ewer.
  _Mr._ Thomas Ewer.
  _Mr._ George Exton.
  _Mr._ Joseph Eyre.


  F.

  _Sir_ Everard Fawkener.
  _Mr._ Felix Feast.
  Daniel Finch, _Esq;_
  _Rev. Mr._ John Finch.
  _Rev. Mr._ Philip Fletcher, _Dean of_ Kildare.
  _Mr._ Thomas Fletcher.
  _Rev. Mr._ William Fletcher, _Prebendary of_ Christ Church, Dublin.
  Martin Folkes, _Esq;_
  _Sir_ Andrew Fountaine.
  John Forbes, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ Thomas Forbes.
  Alexander Forrester, _Esq;_
  _Rev. Mr._ Thomas Foxley, _Rector of_ Stratford _by_ Bow.
  Aaron Franks, _Esq;_
  Napthaly Franks, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ James Fuller.
  Thomas Fytche, _Esq;_


  G.

  _Dr._ John Gilbert, _Lord Bishop of_ Landaff.
  _Dr._ Thomas Gooch, _Lord Bishop of_ Norwich.
  _Marchioness of_ Gray.
  _Lady_ Griffin.
  _Mr._ Daniel Gallon.
  George Garrett, _Esq;_
  _Mrs._ Gibson.
  _Mr._ Richard Gildart, _Jun._
  _Mr._ Francis Gillow.
  George Girardot, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ John Goddard, _2 Copies_.
  Peter Godfrey, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ Sherman Godfrey.
  _Mrs._ Thomasin Gouge.
  _Mr._ James Graham, _3 Copies_.
  _Rev. Mr._ Richard Graves.
  Charles Gray, _Esq;_
  _Rev. Dr._ Green, _Prebendary of_ Worcester.
  _Rev. Dr._ Grey, _Rector of_ Houghton Conquest, Bedfordshire.
  _General_ Guise.


  H.

  Philip _Lord_ Hardwicke, _Lord High Chancellor of_ Great Britain,
    _2 Copies_.
  _Lady_ Hardwicke.
  _Dr._ Thomas Herring, _Lord Archbishop of_ Canterbury.
  _Dr._ Matthew Hutton, _Lord Archbishop of_ York.
  _Dr._ Benjamin Hoadley, _Lord Bishop of_ Winchester.
  _Miss_ Hall _of_ Upton, _in_ Westham.
  _Sir_ Joseph Hankey.
  James Hannott, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ Edward Harding.
  _Mrs._ Harle of Raynham.
  _Mr._ John Harris.
  _Mr._ Robert Harris.
  _Mr._ Peter Hartopp.
  William Harvey, _Esq;_
  Robert Harward, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ John Hatch.
  _Mr._ Coen Haverkam.
  _Rev._ William Hawkins, _A. M. Fellow of_ Pembroke College, Oxford.
  _Mr._ Alexander Hay.
  _Rev._ Dr. Hayter, _Archdeacon of_ York.
  _Mrs._ Mary Heilman.
  _Mr._ William Heron.
  Andrew Hill, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ Edward Hillersdon.
  _Mr._ Roger Hogg.
  Robert Holford, _Esq;_
  George Holmes, _Esq;_ _F. R. S._
  Samuel Horsman, _M. D._
  Henry Lenoy Hunter, _Esq;_
  _Rev._ Dr. Thomas Hunt, _Canon of_ Christ Church, Oxford.


  I.

  _Mr._ George Jackson.
  Samuel Jebb, _M. D._
  Edward Ironside, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ Peter Jullian.
  William Jones, _Esq;_
  _Rev. Mr._ Tho. Juson, _Rector of_ Wanstead.


  K.

  _Dutchess of_ Kent.
  _Mr._ Richard Kee.
  Joseph Keeling, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ Benjamin Kenedy, _Apothecary at_ Horn Church, Essex.
  _Mr._ Thomas King.
  _Dr._ William King, _Principal of_ St. Mary’s Hall, Oxford.


  L.

  Thomas _Duke of_ Leeds.
  Thomas _Earl of_ Leicester.
  _Countess of_ Leicester.
  _Dr._ Samuel Lisle, _Lord Bishop of_ St. Asaph.
  _Hon._ William Lyttelton, _one of the Lords of the Treasury_.
  _Mr._ Daniel Lambert.
  _Mr._ James Leake.
  Joseph Letherland, _M. D._
  —— Legendre, _Esq;_
  David Lewis, _Esq;_
  William Lewis, _M. D._
  Smart Lethieullier, _Esq;_
  _Rev. Dr._ Robert Leyborne, _Principal of_ Alban Hall, Oxford.
  _Library of_ Corpus Christi College, Oxford.
  _Library of_ Brasen Nose College, Oxford.
  _Library of_ Corpus Christi College, Cambridge.
  Edward Lilly, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ William Lindsay.
  Walter Long, _Esq;_
  John Loveday of Caversham, _Esq;_
  Henry Lowther, _Esq;_
  _Rev. Mr._ Lunn, _Rector of_ Elsworth, Cambridgeshire.


  M.

  Charles _Duke_ of Marlborough.
  George _Earl of_ Macklesfield.
  _Lord_ Charles Maynard.
  _Dr._ Isaac Maddox, _Lord Bishop of_ Worcester.
  _Dr._ Matthias Mawson, _Lord Bishop of_ Chichester.
  _Mr._ William Macfarland.
  _Mr._ Alexander Mackintosh.
  _Mr._ Charles Mackintosh.
  _Mr._ John Mackintosh.
  _Mr._ Alexander Macrabie.
  _Mr._ Francis Magnus.
  _Rev._ John Mall, _A. M._
  _Rev. Dr._ Simon Manningham.
  _Mr._ John Manwaring.
  Henry March, _Esq;_
  John March, _Esq;_
  John March, _Jun. Esq;_
  _Mr._ Richard Markham.
  Robert Marsh, _Esq;_
  _Rev._ John Maryon, _LL. B._
  _Rev._ Joseph Mather, _D. D. President of_ Corpus Christi College,
    Oxford.
  _Mr._ Timothy Matthews.
  _Sir_ William Maynard, _Bart._
  Richard Mead, _M. D._
  _Mr._ Thomas Melmoth.
  Edward Melward, _M. D._
  _Rev. Mr._ Micklebourgh.
  _Mr._ Richard Molineux.
  _Mr._ William Monke, _2 Copies_.
  James Monro, _M. D._
  _Hon._ James Montague, _Esq;_
  George Montgomerie, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ Edward Moore.
  _Sir_ Charles Mordaunt, _Bart._
  _Mr._ Richard Morhall.
  _Rev. Dr._ Moss, _Canon Residentiary of_ Sarum.
  _Mr._ James Mount.
  Benjamin Moyer, _Esq;_


  N.

  _Lady_ Newdigate.
  Richard Naish, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ George Nelson.
  _Mr._ Thomas Nelson.
  Robert Nesbitt, _M. D._
  _Mr._ Gabriel Neve, _5 Copies_.
  John Newe, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ Richard Newman.
  _Rev. Dr._ Nicolls, _Chaplain in Ordinary to his_ Majesty.
  George Nodes, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ James Selwyn Noke.
  _Mr._ Godfrey Noke.
  _Mrs._ Dorothy Noke.


  O.

  Arthur Onslow, _Esq;_ _Speaker of the House of Commons_.
  _General_ Oglethorp.
  _Mr._ Edmund Orlabeer.
  _Mr._ Gustavus Ovey.


  P.

  Thomas _Earl of_ Pomfret;
  John _Earl of_ Portsmouth.
  _Countess of_ Portland.
  _Lord Viscount_ Palmerston.
  _Lady_ Palmerston.
  _Dr._ John Potter, _late Lord Archbishop of_ Canterbury.
  _Lord Chief Baron_ Parker.
  _Mr._ Clement Paillet.
  John Paterson, _Esq;_
  Robert Paul, _Esq;_
  _Rev. Dr._ Pelling.
  _Mr._ James Pennett.
  _Miss_ Barbara Pepys.
  Philip Percivall, _Esq;_
  _Rev._ Thomas Persehouse, _A. M. Chaplain to his Grace the Duke of_
    Gordon.
  _Messieurs_ Philips _and_ Wood.
  _Rev. Mr._ Roger Pickering, _2 Copies_.
  _Mr._ John Powell.
  _Rev. Mr._ John Powell, _of_ Raynham.
  Joseph Pratt, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ Richard Pratt.
  _Mr._ Andrew Pringle.
  _Mr._ Arthur Pullinger.
  _Mr._ Richard Pyott.


  Q.

  _Mr._ Thomas Quarme.


  R.

  _Mr._ Allan Ramsay.
  _Mr._ John Ratcliffe.
  Andrew Reid, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ William Richold.
  _Mr._ John Rigg.
  _Mrs._ Rigg.
  _Mr._ Christopher Roberts.
  Hugh Roberts, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ William Robertson.
  Francis Rock, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ Samuel Rossey.
  _Mr._ James Rogers.
  _Mr._ Giles Rooke.
  _Mr._ Robert Rose.
  _Rev._ William Rotherie, _A. M._
  Thomas Rawstorn, _Esq;_
  William Russell _of_ Stubbers, _Esq;_


  S.

  Anthony _Earl of_ Shaftsbury.
  _Dr._ Thomas Seeker, _Lord Bishop of_ Oxford.
  _Dr._ Richard Smallbroke, _Lord Bishop of_ Litchfield _and_ Coventry.
  _Mr._ David Salomons.
  _Lady_ Salter.
  _Rev. Dr._ John Savage.
  Mayer Schamberg, _M. D._
  Isaac Schamberg. _M. D._
  _Mr._ Richard Sclater.
  _Mr._ Isaac Scott.
  _Mr._ Thomas Scott.
  _Mr._ John Searle.
  George Augustus Selwyn, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ Richard Shergold.
  _The Hon. Mrs._ Shirley.
  _Mr._ Richard Shirley.
  _Mr._ James Short.
  _Mr._ David Simson.
  John Skinner, _Esq;_
  Matthew Skinner, _Esq;_
  Stephen Skinner, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ Smith _of_ Coventry.
  William Sotheby, _Esq;_
  George Spearman, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ John Spencer.
  _Rev. Dr._ Stebbing, _Chancellor of_ Sarum.
  James Stephens, _M. D._
  _Mr._ Edmond Stephens.
  _Mr._ John Strutt.
  _Mr._ George Stubbs.


  T.

  Richard _Earl of_ Tilney.
  _Dr._ John Thomas _Lord Bishop of_ Peterborough.
  _Dr._ Richard Trevor, _Lord Bishop of_ St. David’s.
  _Mr._ Abjon. Taylor.
  John Temple, _Esq;_ _20 Copies_.
  _Mrs._ Temple.
  _Mr._ Evans Thomas.
  _Mr._ Harry Thompson.
  Thomas Tickell, _Esq;_ _2 Copies_.
  _Mr._ John Tilly.
  _Mr._ John Tinney, _2 Copies_.
  _Mr._ Noah Titner.
  _Mr._ George Tollet.
  _Mrs._ Tollet.
  Richard Tonson, _Esq;_
  _Mrs._ Touchett.
  _Mrs._ Towne, _2 Copies_.
  _Miss_ Towne.
  Thomas Towers, _Esq;_
  _Mr._ William Turpin.


  V.

  _Sir_ Peter Vandeput.
  _Mrs._ Vanrixton.
  _Mr._ George Udny.


  W.

  _Dr._ Joseph Wilcox, _Lord Bishop of_ Rochester.
  _Mr._ Samuel Wade.
  _Mr._ John Wainwright.
  _Mr._ William Walker.
  _Mr._ James Wall.
  _Mrs._ Walter.
  _Mr._ John Ward, _Rhet. Prof. in_ Gresham College.
  Richard Warner, _Esq;_
  _Rev. Mr._ Langhorn Warren.
  _Mr._ Peter Warren.
  Philip Carteret Webb, _Esq;_
  John Westbroke, _Esq;_
  John Wilkes, _Esq;_
  _Rev. Dr._ Willson.
  William Woolball, _Esq;_
  Israel Woollaston, _Esq;_ _2 Copies_.
  Daniel Wray, _Esq;_
  Matthew Wymondesold, _Esq;_
  _Rev. Mr._ John Wyatt _of_ Felsted, Essex.
  _Rev. Mr._ Wyatt, _Vicar of_ West Ham, Essex.
  James Wytched, _Esq;_


  Y.

  _Dr._ Yarborough, _Principal of_ Brasen Nose College, Oxford.
  _Hon._ Charles Yorke, _2 Copies_.
  _Hon._ Philip Yorke.
  _Dr._ Young.

[Illustration]




[Illustration]




TRAVELS IN TURKEY AND BACK TO ENGLAND.




An Account of a journey round the ancient _Ionia_, from _Smyrna_, thro
_St. George’s_, _Magnesia_, _Durguthli_, _Sardis_, _Birghée_, _Tyria_,
_Ephesus_, and back to _Smyrna_, in the year MDCXCIX.


April xxi.

Eight of our nation having lately designed a visit to the church of
_Ephesus_, by name, Messieurs Whalley, Dunster, Coventry, Ashe, Turner,
Clotterbooke, Frye, and Chishull, we had first a general meeting, to
agree upon what was requisite to the resolution we had taken; at which
time Mr. Whalley kindly undertaking the care of our provisions, and the
government of our intended journey, we propos’d to make a circuit of our
way to _Ephesus_, that so we might have a larger satisfaction in the
sight of those delightsome places, for which _Asia Minor_ was always so
justly celebrated.

In prosecution of this design we intended to make our first _conáck_ at
_Norlícui_, to which place having this morning dispatched our baggage
upon mules, under the care of a _janisary_ and two servants, we ourselves
set forward about three in the afternoon, with another _janisary_,
_dragoman_, servants, and other requisites. Our company completed the
number of twenty three light horse. Six or seven other gentlemen of the
English factory were pleased to accompany us as far as _Norlícui_, where
arriving in less than two hours, we all found a kind and hospitable
reception from Mr. Benjamin Jones and his lady. After a short repast our
freinds returned back to _Smyrna_, and left us employed in providing for
ourselves and horses. This care had now taken up the evening, when it
being proposed, that morning and evening prayers should be constantly
read to the company during the whole journey, we all readily embraced the
motion. Hereupon we immediately put this design in execution, and then
pitched upon our lodging.


April xxii.

This morning a quarter before five we leave _Norlícui_, and proceed on
_Magnesia_ road in our way to _St. George’s_ village, expecting to see
the ceremonies, which the Greek Christians there perform on the twenty
third instant, which is the festival of that saint. And having ascended
the top of the adjoining hill, we there make an halt for our mules,
and take that opportunity of looking back, and enjoying the delightful
prospect, which this place afforded us. We had then the gap of _Nymphe_
on our left hand, and village of _Palamútcui_ on our right, which is
pleasantly seated on an ascent, under a grove of pine trees; but before
us lay extended the whole plain between the hills of _Tartalée_[6] and
_Cordilíeu_, being terminated with the view of the _Two Brothers_[7], the
city, castle, and bay of _Smyrna_.

We continue our journey over the hill, till arriving at an old burying
place, we begin to descend by a paved way to a large and high bridge of
stone, built over a small, but clear and purling river. From hence we
pass on to the groves of _Jacácui_, which is a village seated on the
right hand upon an ascending ground, and fronting the edge of _Tartalée_.
Here we again halted, and drank a dish of coffee, partly to wait for
our mules, and partly to entertain ourselves with a view of the plain of
_Nymphe_, into which we had a narrow prospect between the forementioned
village and the ridge of the opposite mountain. After this we ascend
a tedious and craggy hill, with which tho we were now considerably
fatigued, yet we had still courage enough to reject the proposal, which
was there made, of baiting, and taking the advantage of a fair commodious
fountain, which flows on our right hand from the top of the hill. We
therefore proceed about the space of an hour in tolerable good way, till
at the descent of the mountain we encounter a rugged and uneasy passage;
the road being either choaked up with loose stones, or else worn into
abrupt and descending steps. This obliged us to dismount, and lead our
horses down the precipice; where we nevertheless received some little
satisfaction, in observing the veins of red and white marble, with
which each side of this troublesome way is garnished. At the foot of
the hill we cross a rivulet, and quickly after repassing the same, ride
from thence strait forward in a covert and narrow bottom, which in less
than half an hour leads us into the plains of _Magnesia_. After a short
repast in this place we mount our horses, turning to the left out of the
road of _Magnesia_; and tho we were now not more than half an hour from
our intended _conáck_, yet we ride on by mistake too much to the right
hand; till, having advanced beyond the town and castle of _Magnesia_,
we come to a Turkish village, where we were directed almost back again
to _St. George’s_. Here we arrived about one a clock, and made it our
first business to pitch our tent for the use of our servants, whilst
we ourselves were received into a little house, which afforded us the
convenience of one chamber, and a _sophá_, for lodging.

After diner we took a walk about the village, and visited the low humble
church, which is here permitted to the Greek Christians. It has outwardly
the marks of no inconsiderable antiquity, and within it is the exact
model of the primitive Greek churches; consisting first of the πρόναος
or _outward chapel_, then the νάος or _body of the church_, with three
passages from the one into the other, and after all a chancel separate
from the nave by lattice work. We here observed no other ornaments,
than the pictures of _St. George_, the _Virgin Mary_, _St. John_, and
_St. Nicholas_, and another of our _Savior_ on the roof of the church,
which consists of a regular cupola. Before the altar lay the book of the
_Gospels_, with three or four copies of divine service; some containing
their ordinary _Liturgy_, and others adapted to peculiar months of the
year. The Greeks were now flocking hither to perform their devotions
before the picture of _St. George_; and the superstition of a woman was
remarkable, who prostrated her little infant at the feet of the saint,
and eagerly stroking the picture endeavoured to convey some hidden
blessing to the body of the child.


April xxiii.

This morning we mounted about nine a clock, when the Greeks were
preparing for the ceremony of the day. It was pleasant to see them flock
together to the number of some thousands, being of different sex, age,
and quality; but all equally regardless of the dirt and rain, which then
fell very plentifully. We followed them on horseback a little mile out
of the village to a large turpentine tree, under the shade and covert
of which they had placed the saints, which we had before observed in
the church; and there celebrated their mass. This was no other, than
what is ordinary in the rites of the Greek church; except only, that
it seemed to have some particular reference to _St. George_. It may be
here proper to observe, that as the priest made two elevations of the
elements, the one before, and the other after consecration; the people
equally adored them at the former, as well as at the latter[8]. Before
the consecration of the wine was completed, the priest mingled a little
warm water in the cup, and afterwards put the μαργαρίτης, or _consecrated
bread_, therein. All which he, and the deacon who assisted him, received;
and after the whole ceremony one of his assistants distributed two
loaves of unconsecrated bread[9] in little peices to the people, which
they received with as much hurry as superstition. The congregation now
break up, and carry back their saints in a tumultuous manner, one still
endeavouring to catch them from another; while he that carries them, runs
with what speed he can, and often strikes his head with the board, on
which they are painted, as a voluntary penance for his sins.

This ceremony ended, we turned aside to satisfy our curiosity with the
sight of the famous river _Hermus_, which flows scarce two bow’s shot
below the turpentine tree mentioned above. This large and noble river
yeilds an entertaining sight, especially when it abates something of
its usual fulness. It appears graced on each side with a sandy shelving
bank. The neighbouring pastures afford abundance of tamarisk, and on the
edge of the river asparagus is very plentiful. It may be observed, that
as the poets of old called it the _golden_[10], so the Turks at present
call it the _silver streamed Hermus_; either of which names it seems to
deserve from that bright and shining sand, which its water washes. But
though the sand be clear, yet the water is still thick and muddy[11], and
well answers some epithets of that nature, which are bestowed upon it in
ancient poetry.

It was now past midday, when we return to the village, and after the
refreshment of a diner prepare for our departure towards _Magnesia_. Our
way thither lay through the same plain, into which we entered yesterday
at one a clock; where the beauty and verdure of this campain countrey
made amends for the great rain, which annoyed us all this day, as well at
the Greek ceremony, as now in our way to _Magnesia_.

In two hours from _St. George’s_ we begin to enter _Magnesia_, not
without a just admiration of its delicious situation at the foot of
mount _Sipylus_; from whence it was antiently called _Magnesia ad
Sipylum_, to distinguish it from that other, which stood near the river
_Meander_[12]. Having rode into the city, we began to be in distress for
an house to receive us; for an uncertain recommendation, which we had
hitherto over credulously relied on, we now found to have miscarried.
This was observed by an _effendi_, who saw us pass under his window, and
therefore courteously acquainted us by his servant, that if we wanted
accommodations, we might be welcome to his house. We gladly embraced the
motion, and were conducted into a garden, where we were afforded the use
of a pleasure house, consisting of a large _sophá_ room, a kitchen, and
an open _kiosk_, with a beautiful fountain in the middle. The _effendi_
himself came down, and welcomed us to our apartment, adding withall,
that if we had any other freind to rely upon, he would not deprive us of
a better entertainment; if not, he bid us freely make use of what this
place afforded. Returning to his house he presented us with a lamb, and
desired to know, if there was any thing else, with which he was capable
of obliging us. By our _dragoman_ he likewise informed us, that the
_cadí_ of the city was at that time making him a visit, before whom it
might not be improper for us to shew ourselves; but at the same time
not to come empty handed. According to this motion we waited upon the
_cadí_ with two _okes_ of sugar, and as many of coffee. He received us
and our present very obligingly; and upon the _effendi’s_ invitation, we
there drank a dish of coffee in the company of several Turks, who seemed
to be of the better rank, and behaved themselves gentilely, that is,
according to the genius of this haughty people, with an agreable mixture
of civility and reservedness.

This ceremony performed, we returned to our garden, and there entertained
ourselves at supper with just and grateful reflections on the great
courtesy and hospitality of our landlord, whole name we had now learnt
to be _Mahomet effendi_. His habitation is very pleasant, yet not so
much for the splendid furniture of his house, as for that various and
diverting prospect, which it commands over the plain of _Hermus_; though
indeed this is an advantage, which by reason of the ascending situation
of _Magnesia_ is common to the meanest cottage in the city. It seemed
strange to us to observe several pieces of painted glass in the windows
of our _effendi’s_ house, inscribed in Turkish characters with the name
of the proprietor, together with some religious sentences of Mahometan
devotion. But we were much more surprized, when we were informed, that
it was the manufacture of this place; for it is stained with a beautiful
as well as deep and durable colour, and comes up to the perfection of
the best, we have seen in England. This gave us occasion to reflect on
the different fortune of arts and sciences, which, like men, seem to
take delight in shifting their station; for while other arts have now
left these places, and traveled westward, this alone in exchange for all
the rest seems to have retired into this, and is deplored as lost in
Christendom.


April xxiv.

We propose to spend this day at _Magnesia_, in order to observe what may
further occur there remarkable. To this end we were favoured with the
company of a _janisary_ by one _Mahmút agá_, to whom this morning we
made a short visit; he being the person, to whom at first we expected
to have been recommended. The _janisary_ conducted us to the two
principal _mosques_ of the city, to a religious college of _dervíses_,
to a madhouse, and to an old _seraglio_, where the young princes of
the Ottoman empire have formerly been educated. At the last of these
there remain only the reliques of two or three rich _tiváns_, and a
considerable number of stately old cypress trees, to witness the former
grandeur of the place. At the madhouse we could observe nothing besides
the bare walls of that hospital, and a brass mortar lying in the yard,
which seemed to be remarkable for an old Latin inscription, which it
bore, signifying that _it was made at Pisa_. The religious college is a
fair stone building, consisting of one quadrangle, and that encompassed
with a regular cloister, which is supported with pillars of the modern
Greek module. The two _mosques_, which we mentioned, are distinguished
from the rest, in that they are of royal foundation, an honour which is
signified by the two _minarées_ belonging to them; whereas the other
eighteen, with which this city is furnished, have but one a piece. Before
each of these _mosques_ there is a square and regular area, containing
a beautiful fountain in the middle, and enclosed on three sides with
cells of religious Turks. The front of the _mosque_ makes the fourth side
of the square, and is itself likewise adorned with a spacious portico
supported with stately pillars, of which some only are topt with modern
capitals. But as the capitals of the rest are of the old Corinthian
order, so all the shafts appear plainly to be ancient; some consisting of
natural and others of cast artificial marble, but both the one and the
other bound near the pedestal with rings of massy brass.

Before we could be admitted into the inside, we were obliged to comply
with the zeal of the Turks, who always leave their shoes at the entrance
of their _mosques_. Here we found them both much resembling one another,
excepting that one was richer than the other; and whereas the roof of
the other consisted of five cupolas, the roof of this was regularly
contracted into one. We had now the liberty to view several copies of
their _Alcoran_, and other books of Mahometan prayers, all curiously
written and adorned with golden figures. The windows are furnished with
excellent painted glass, full of flower work and religious inscriptions;
and from the roof hangs a multitude of lamps, together with bright balls
contrived to reflect the light, all of them well ranged in a beautiful
and artificial manner.

In each of the royal _mosques_ we further observed a splendid _kiblé_,
which is a part separate from the body of the _mosque_, and answering
to the altar of our Christian churches; it is adorned with a rich floor
and gilded roof, together with carving and mosaic work on each side,
but more particularly in the front, which is contrived to face _Mecca_.
Immediately to the right hand of the _kiblé_ stands a lofty pulpit, being
fourteen steps high, and consisting of a portal, rails, and canopy, all
of wrought marble. One thing was remarkable as well in these _mosques_,
as in that which we afterwards saw at _Ephesus_, though we know not
whether it has any mystical reference to the Turkish superstition; it
is a nich in the front of the _kiblé_, on each side of which stands a
fine slender pillar, hewn out of one entire stone, made without capital
or pedestal, but so fixed within the work both above and below, that it
remains moveable, and is turned about by the hand at pleasure.

This sight of _Magnesia_ was our employment before diner, but in the
afternoon we all attempted to ascend the castle hill on foot; which we
quickly found to be a more difficult and painful task, than we at first
imagined. The way was inexpressibly steep and craggy, and cost us an
hour’s labour, though we made all possible speed; nor after our return
could we blame the discretion of one of our companions, who thought
fit to retire about the midway. However having at length conquered the
ascent, our toil was well rewarded with the surprizing prospect of the
city, and adjacent plain; in the latter of which we could distinguish the
whole course of the _Hermus_ for many miles together, as also the places
where the _Amnis Phrygius_, or _Hyllus_, joins it[13].

The fabric of the whole castle is very strong, and the advantage of
a hill, which is on all sides a mile high, must have rendered it
impregnable, in an age which knew not the use of gunpowder. It was
formerly fortified with a considerable number of great guns, which are
now removed to the new castle, which defends the bay of _Smyrna_. Two
only remain on a bastion, that fronts the city; on both which we were
sorry to see the eagles of the Roman empire. No other apartment of the
castle is now kept locked, except a dungeon, in which there were twelve
prisoners, lately sent thither by _Osmánogli_. A sight of these miserable
wretches we desired of the _agá_, nor was he so scrupulous as to deny it
us. The same _agá_ likewise shewed us within the precincts of the castle
a poor Christian church, dedicated to the memory of _St. John_; where the
Greeks meet upon the day of his feast, and are at the constant charge of
two lamps, which burn there throughout the year. We had read and heard
of a collection of Roman arms, reserved somewhere in this castle; tho
being upon the place, nothing of this nature occurred to us. But _Solymán
effendi_, a most courteous and obliging person, whom we visited this
evening, as being the next neighbour, as well as brother of our landlord,
assured us, that having many years since had the curiosity to ascend the
castle hill, he then saw under ground the collection which we spake of,
consisting of headpieces, breastplates, shields, and the like.

The mountainous parts about _Magnesia_ were antiently famous for the
production of the loadstone[14]; tho indeed it is disparaged by
_Pliny_[15], and accounted less attractive, than that of other places.
However this probably was the city, from whence, as _Lucretius_ says,
that stone took the name of _magnet_[16]; as from the whole country of
_Lydia_ the touchstone likewise was called _lapis Lydius_[17]. This hint
gave us the curiosity to carry a sea compass up the castle hill, where we
had the satisfaction to see it point to different quarters, as we then
placed it upon different stones, and quickly after intirely to lose its
whole virtue; two effects which are natural to the magnetic needle, when
injured by the nearness of other bodies impregnated with the same quality.

Late in the evening we were now preparing for repose, and endeavouring
to forget the fatigue of the castle hill; when _Solymán effendi_, having
laid aside the badges of his character, and put on a more familiar
temper, returned our visit. We doubted not from the change of his habit,
and the unseasonableness of the hour, but he came to break a Mahometan
commandment, and _steal his kief_ (as the Turks pleasantly express it) in
the juice of the forbidden grape[18]. This was a tedious and ungrateful
task, with which nevertheless, by reason of his own and his brother’s
great civility, some of our company were forced to comply. Nor had the
wine he freely drank its desired effect, till towards two a clock in the
morning.


April xxv.

We begin to rise by five this morning, and after dispatching our
baggage take leave of _Mahomet effendi_, to whose singular humanity and
hospitality we had hitherto been so much obliged. As we were riding
thro the city, it was pleasant to recollect something of the ancient
history of this place, whose present state we had seen the day before.
It there occurred to us, that this was that _Magnesia_, which of all the
Asian cities[19] made the first submission to the Roman arms, after the
defeat of _Antiochus_ by _Scipio_. This likewise was that _Magnesia_,
which entered into a league offensive and defensive with the city of
_Smyrna_ in the reign of _Seleucus_ son of _Antiochus Theus_, whereby
the inhabitants of the one were mutually made free of the other city;
and whereas public monuments of this confederacy were by agreement of
both parties to be erected in different places, one of them, which was
set up by the _Smyrneans_, is now to be seen in the gallery at _Oxford_,
inscribed on a large flat marble pillar[20].

There now scarce occur any reliques of antiquity in _Magnesia_, except
that we observed several Ionic and Corinthian pillars in the court of
an old _mosque_, held in great veneration by the Turks for the burial
of _Hasánogli_, a person famous in the history of that nation. Over
one of the entrances into the same court there is to be seen a broken
inscription of an antient heathen temple, tho too high to be now legible;
and on a stone step, placed before the principal _mosque_ of the city,
we could read among other decayed words ΚΑΙΣΑΡΙ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΩ. The following
inscription likewise is of no contemptible antiquity, which we found on a
stone now lying in the staircase of the abovementioned _Solymán effendi_.

    ΣΤΑΤΙΩ ΚΩΔΡΑΤΩ ΑΝΘΥΠΑΤΩ[21] ΑΛΕΞΑΝΔΡΟΣ ΔΙΟ-
    ΓΝΙΤΟΥ ΕΠΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕ ΤΟ ΜΝΗΜΕΙΟΝ ΕΑΥΤΩ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙΣ
    ΙΔΙΟΙΣ ΕΚΓΟΝΟΙΣ ΜΗΔΕΝΙ ΔΕ ΕΞΕΣΤΩ ΑΠΑΛΛΟΤΡΙΩΣΑΙ
    ΑΥΤΟ ΕΚ ΤΟΥ ΓΕΝΟΥΣ ΜΟΥ ΕΑΝ ΔΕ ΤΙΣ ΑΠΑΛΛΟΤΡΙΩΣΗ
    ΥΠΕΥΘΥΝΟΣ ΕΣΤΩ ΕΙΣ ΤΟΝ ΚΑΙΣΑΡΟΣ ΦΙΣΚΟΝ Χ. Ρ. ϛ.

The said _effendi_ not only civilly informed us of this stone, but
when we had transcribed the words, he profered to send it after us to
_Smyrna_; adding, that if it was any piece of sanctity, he was unwilling
it should remain there to be trampled under foot.

Designing from hence for _Durguthli_, we continue our journey under
the foot of _Sipylus_, which about two hours from the city ends in a
stupendous precipice, consisting of a naked massy stone, and rising
perpendicularly almost a furlong high. It was not a little surprizing,
as we rode along under the foot of this hill, to observe a certain cliff
of the rock, representing an exact nich and statue, with the due shape
and proportion of an human body. For _Sipylus_ being the seat of the
transformation of the unhappy _Niobe_[22], there was ground of imagining,
that we had either met with her statue, or with that which was the first
occasion of the fable; at least it was not improbable, that this was the
work of some antient inhabitants of this place, who pleased themselves
in fashioning the natural rock into such a figure, as might preserve the
tradition of this celebrated poetic fiction.

Not far from hence we begin to leave the mountain on our right hand,
having the stream of the _Hermus_ in view on the left; and at a large
distance before us the snowy top of the mountain _Tmolus_. Our road now
lay thro a verdant and delightful plain, inriched by many advantages
of nature, and not negligently manured by the inhabitants. About the
fourth hour of this day’s journey we passed a bridge, erected over a
large river; which, as those of the country informed us, is now called
_Niphti_, or _Nymphe_, and may probably be the _Cryos_ mentioned by
_Pliny_, as one of the streams that feed the _Hermus_[23]. From
this bridge the road lies thro a less fertile plain, till within
the neighbourhood of _Durguthli_ it is again better cultivated, and
appropriated to the production of cottons. Near our entrance into the
town we cross a broad and sandy chanel, which in the winter season
conveys no inconsiderable current into the _Hermus_. We had here no other
to rely upon, than the accommodations of a public _kane_, where, after we
had fixed our lodgings, we found that we had arrived in six hours from
_Magnesia_; tho an hour is to be deducted for the rests, which we were
obliged to make for the security of our mules.

_Durguthli_ is a town purely of Turkish fabric, and therefore has nothing
to entertain the curiosity of any traveler, besides the management
of cotton wool; which is here prepared in great abundance, and so
transmitted to the market of _Smyrna_. As to this we observed, that they
first sift it from the dust and other refuse, which it contracts in
gathering, in a large wicker wheel; after this they separate the wool
from the cod, in which it grows; and at last they work it betwixt a
wooden and iron roller, which spinning upon one another in a rapid motion
draw in the wool, and leave the seed behind.

Walking up and down about the limits of our _kane_, we were accosted
by a Turk, who spake good Italian. He had been many years a slave in
_Legorn_, where he was a witness to the riches and splendor of Italy,
and other parts of Christendom. This gave him occasion to express a
just indignation against the haughty ignorance of the Turks; who, tho
they want all advantages of art, and appearance of true magnificence,
yet have the vanity to despise other nations, who enjoy both to a great
perfection. In other discourse with an Armenian priest we were informed
of a church, which by a peculiar grant of the _Grand Signior_ that nation
had newly founded in _Durguthli_. This was an instance, which seemed to
us observable; for tho Christianity is tolerated in Turkey, yet they
hold it inconsistent with their law to permit the erection of any new
churches, and allow only the liberty of repairing old ones.

We parted in the close of the evening, and repaired in good health to
our respective lodgings. But about two in the morning one of our company
awaked under an indisposition, which by degrees grew into a severe
and dangerous sickness; tho by timely opening a vein, and after that
enjoying a little repose, he recovered to the great satisfaction of the
whole company. However this discouraged us from proceeding, till another
night’s rest should confirm his health. Being thus detained a day at
_Durguthli_, we were informed of some antiquities to be seen among the
Armenian graves, on a mount adjoining to the town; whither when we had
repaired, we found a curious piece of _basso relievo_, brought, as they
said, from _Sardis_. But no ancient inscriptions appeared there, except
these imperfect words on a marble tombstone.

    .. ΥΡΗΛΙΩ ΚΟΤΤ ... Μ ... ΣΑ ΑΛΕΞΙΝΟΟΥ ... Ω ΕΚΤ .
    ΔΙΑΤΑΓΗΣ ..... ΚΑΡΜΟΥ ΤΩ ΙΔΙΩ ΦΙΛΩ ... ΕΥΕΡΓΕΤΗ


April xxvii.

Rising early this morning all of us, God be thanked, in perfect health,
we still resolve to enlarge our circuit; whence Mr. Coventry and Mr. Frye
apprehending too long a journey, determined to return to _Smyrna_. The
remaining part of our company proceed by break of day in the road for
_Sardis_. Just before we arrive at the fountain on our right hand, about
half an hour from our _conáck_, lies the village of _Ishmaeljá_. And in
an hour and an half from thence we observe _Urgánlui_ on the left. We
continue our journey thro a spatious and fertile plain, curiously beset
on each side the road with variety of round hillocks, which from their
number, figure, and situation, in so level a campain, appear plainly to
be artificial. They are undoubtedly the work of one or more numerous
armies; but whether they were at first designed to bury their heaps of
slain[24] (which was the original of those barrows[25], that occur in
many plains of England) or whether they were erected as thrones before
the pavilion of the general, which was usual in the Roman camp[26], is
not easy to determine.

About the fourth hour crossing a small river we have the village of
_Baricle_ on the left hand, and larger than that, the village of
_Achmetléer_ on the right. Not far from hence the road divides into two
paths for _Sardis_. The lower of these we chose, tho declining a little
too much to the left hand, and so passing by a few cottages, which are
called by the name of _Zericle_, we arrive in seven hours at _Sardis_,
one of which is now likewise to be deducted for the stay, which our mules
occasioned.

Instead of that _Sardis_, which antiently was the seat of the kings of
_Lydia_, afterwards in great renown, under the Persian, Grecian, and
Roman Empires, and at last honoured with the title of a Metropolitan
Christian church; we now find in the same place, at the foot of mount
_Tmolus_, a small Turkish village by the name of _Sart_. We here had
the liberty of a ruinous inconvenient _kane_, erected in this place for
the service of _caraváns_ from Persia; but we much rather embraced the
opportunity of pitching our tents under the covert of a few plane trees,
which spread a cool and grateful shade upon the bank of _Pactólus_. This
river is constantly mentioned as rising in _Tmolus_, and washing the
Walls of _Sardis_, particularly it is said by _Herodotus_ to run thro
the very market place of the ancient city[27]. Its chanel does not now
appear to be considerable, yet it deserved our particular notice for the
fame of its golden streams; a story celebrated not more by poets[28] than
historians, the latter of whom have imagined this to be the treasure,
whence _Croesus_ and his ancestors collected that mighty wealth.

Before the cool of the evening we visited the ruins of this once
flourishing city; and towards the western part observed the standing
walls of two or three spatious and lofty rooms, not unworthy the palace
of the ancient kings of _Lydia_. They were all arched towards the
foundation, and adorned as well as strengthened at each corner with hewn
stone; but the main part of the fabric consisted of a broad and durable
brick, which is likewise observable in most of the ancient ruins of
_Asia Minor_. From hence we passed thro heaps of rubbish, and tracks of
continued foundations, to the eastern part of the city; where stand the
pillars and front of another spatious building, the figure and situation
of which persuaded us, that they were the remains of the cathedral
church. A little southerly from hence we viewed the full extent of
another stately room, which however antient it might be, was nevertheless
raised out of ruins more antient than itself; as appeared from several
rich pillars, and architraves, confusedly placed among the rubbish of
the walls. About the distance of a furlong, full south of the antient
city, are to be seen the beautiful remains not of an amphitheatre, as
has been supposed, but rather of some royal palace. Here we observed six
lofty Ionic pillars, all of them still intire, except that the capital
of one is distorted by an earthquake. There adjoins to them a fair and
magnificent portal, the pilasters of which, being about twenty feet
high, and twelve feet distant from each other, are joined at the top by
one entire stone, which, by what art or force it was there erected, is
difficult to conceive; for tho _Pliny_[29] pretends to account for the
like difficulty in the architecture of the temple of _Ephesus_, yet that
passage gives but little satisfaction in the matter. There occurs nothing
else, that is remarkable about _Sardis_, besides the broken walls of the
castle on an adjoining hill; the ascent and prospect of which, however
magnified by Sir _Paul Rycaut_, we yet thought so inferior, to what we
lately had found at _Magnesia_, that it could not raise our curiosity
to undertake the climbing of that precipice, especially since we could
promise ourselves the same prospect to a greater advantage from the top
of _Tmolus_; and as for two or three broken inscriptions, which are
there extant, we were content to peruse them in Dr. _Smith’s_ printed
_Journal_[30].


April xxviii.

We had now determined our course for _Birghée_, towards which our way
lay over the mountain _Tmolus_. In pursuance of this design we mounted
quickly after three this morning, and by that time it was full day
we had ascended the first edge of the hill, where we halted to enjoy
the entertaining prospect of the plain of _Sardis_. We had here the
opportunity of viewing the castle hill, the antient seat of the city, the
whole course of the _Hermus_[31], and the full extent of the _Gygaean
lake_, about five miles in length, and three in breadth, mentioned in
all ancient accounts of _Sardis_; but what renders it most remarkable,
celebrated of old by _Homer_[32], and well described by _Strabo_ to
be about forty furlongs from the city[33]. This sight had now highly
satisfied our curiosity, when we turn to the right hand more into the
body of the hill, and contrary to our expectation rarely encounter any
difficult ascent, by reason of the artificial windings of the way.

_Tmolus_ is in general so pleasant, that it was easy to conceive ourselves
in a theatre, where the scene changes every half hour; for sometimes we
were surprized with an impending rock, sometimes with a perpendicular
precipice, and sometimes with the murmurs of a falling brook; the whole
being curiously garnished with trees, shrubs, and herbs of an infinite
variety.

In four hours we had at length conquered the highest eminence of the
mountain, whence we continue our journey thro a fruitful vale, enclosed
on each side with two lofty ridges of the hill. On each of these remains
a large quantity of snow, which, as it gradually melts, supplies a rapid
current, that descends hence into _Pactólus_. It was observable, that
the air of the whole vale was chilled to that degree by the neighbouring
snows, that it was still winter in this place; nor could we here discern
any buds or leaves on the same sorts of trees, which we had seen green
and flourishing on the kinder parts of the mountain.

This cool and refreshing vale lasted an hour, after which we begin to
descend the hill by a more steep and dangerous way, than we before had
mounted; but nothing was more disagreable, than so sensible a change
of air, which we now experienced, being as it were at once translated
out of the frigid into the torrid zone. Such was the difference betwixt
the valley we had left, and the southern part of the hill we were now
traveling. This heat being added to the laborious and tedious circuits,
without which the descent was absolutely impossible, brought us at length
by one of the clock almost half dead to _Birghée_. Nor were we capable of
being refreshed, either with the remembrance of that pleasant mountain,
we had passed; or with the view of the _Caýstrian_ plain, which we had
then before us.

The rich products of mount _Tmolus_ ought not here to be forgot[34],
which nature has furnished with that store and variety of plants, that it
may deservedly be termed the _physic garden_ of the universe. The valley,
which we mentioned, is enriched with a vein of marble, clear and pellucid
enough to contend with alabaster. Nor is it to be neglected, that on
the southern descent of the hill we traveled over a continued track of
stone, adorned with bright and shining particles resembling gold dust;
the occasion most probably of so many splendid epithets, which in antient
poetry are bestowed on the _Pactólus_.

_Birghée_ is a fair and considerable Turkish town, adorned with two very
handsome _mosques_; and pleasantly seated in the road from _Sardis_, at
the opposite foot of _Tmolus_. This makes it probable, it was the
_Hypaepae_ of the antients, that situation exactly answering to the
description, which _Ovid_ and _Strabo_ have left us of it[35]. We
were here received into a public _kane_, where we enjoyed an hearty
and entire repose; tho sweetened rather by the fatigue of the foregoing
day, than any entertainment or accommodation of the place.


April xxix.

We continued our journey by four a clock this morning thro the
_Caýstrian_ plain for _Tyria_, and had the satisfaction of fording that
celebrated river about three hours from our _conáck_. Not far from hence
we found a stone bridge of three considerable arches, built directly
along the bank of the river; and therefore now serving to no other
purpose, but only to witness that the stream had changed its chanel. Our
way lay from hence near the course of the _Caýster_, thro a fertile and
well cultivated champain; a place inexpressibly delicious, and which can
be equalled by nothing, but the sweetness of that immortal verse:

    Ἀσίῳ ἐν λειμῶνι Καϋστρίου ἀμφὶ ῥέεθρα. Iliad. β′. ℣. 461.

Or those of _Virgil_:

    _Pelagi volucres, et quae Asia circum_
    _Dulcibus in stagnis rimantur prata Cäystri._ Georg. i. 384.

It is inhabited by frequent villages, and enclosed on both sides with two
high and snowy mountains, namely _Tmolus_ on the right hand, and on the
left what _Strabo_ calls Μεσογειότης[36], or the _Midland hills_.

Soon after eleven a clock we arrived at _Tyria_, and _conácked_ in an
old, dirty, ruinous _kane_; having by this time learnt, that the weary
and thirsty traveler must repine at no reception, which he meets with in
Turkey. _Tyria_ yeilds a pleasant prospect, as we ride into the city,
gently ascending from the adjacent plain. The buildings are curiously
intermixt with trees and gardens, which extend the circuit of the place;
tho the number of its houses seems inferior to that of _Smyrna_. We
counted about fourteen _mosques_, one of which we observed to be royal,
that is, adorned with a double _minarée_. Having entered the town we
found the streets negligently kept, and meanly built; but at the same
time populous enough, not without the appearance of a considerable trade.
It is to be wondered that so large a city, standing in the very heart of
Asia, should have no remains of antiquity[37]. There are indeed two Greek
churches in the place, where the poor ignorant priests would persuade
both themselves and us, that this was the antient _Thyatira_; but we
thought it not fit to rob them of the satisfaction of this error, nor
puzzle them with any accounts of antient geography, or late experience,
that evince the contrary.

It is pretended in some journals, that two or three valuable inscriptions
are to be found in these churches, tho we were now eye witnesses of
the contrary; for there occur’d nothing in that, which they call the
Metropolitan church, but a defaced monument, whereon no intelligible
words were to be read, except ΧΡΗΣΤΕ ΧΑΙΡΕ. Over the entrance of the
other there is a piece of devotion, written in modern characters: but
more remarkable, in the body of the wall stands a large image of our
_Savior_, elegantly carved in porphyry; tho it now appears rudely
mangled, and seems to have felt the fury of the old angry _iconoclastae_.
In the hand is portrayed an open book, inscribed with this sentence
out of _St. John’s_ Gospel, viii. 12. Ἐγώ εἰμι τὸ φῶς τοῦ κόσμου. This
was an instance, which may perhaps appear to be singular, at least
it is contrary to the general practice, as well as persuasion of the
Greek church; for tho they have a superstitious fondness for religious
pictures, yet they abhor all imagery in _relievo_, and look upon it as
inclining to heathenism and idolatry.


April xxx.

By six this morning we set forward from _Tyria_ in our way for _Ephesus_,
and passing thro the extreme skirt of the city, we observe the
inscription of an ancient stone coffin, now converted by the Turks to
supply the use of a cistern. It has been defaced towards the upper parts
of the chest, and permitted us to read only these following words:

    ....... Η ΣΟΡΟΣ .......... ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΩ ......
    .... ΟΥΔΕΝΙ ..... Ε ..... ΑΙ .... ΜΕΤΑ .....
    ΚΟΜΙΣ ... ΜΑ .. ΕΝ .. ΤΟ .. ΤΟΛΜΗΣΑΣ ΤΙ ΤΟΙΟΥ-
    ΤΟ ΤΙΣΕΙ ΤΩ ΙΕΡΩΤΑΤΩ ΤΑΜΕΙΩ 𐆖. Β. Φ. ΚΗΔΟΝ-
    ΤΑΙ ΔΕ ΤΗΣ ΣΟΡΟΥ ΙΟΥΝΙΟΣ ΑΛΕΞΑΝΔΡΟΣ ΚΑΙ ΠΟΤΑ-
    ΜΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΚΛΗΡΟΝΟΜΟΙ ΑΥΤΩΝ ΖΩΣΙΝ ΤΑΥΤΗΣ ΕΠΙ-
    ΓΡΑΦΗΣ ΑΝΤΙΓΡΑΦΟΝ ΑΝΕΤΕΘΗ ΕΙΣ ΤΟ ΕΝ ΕΦΕΣΩ
    ΑΡΧΕΙΟΝ

Upon the borders of the road, about a mile from _Tyria_, there stands
a commodious fountain, and adjoining thereto a pleasant country house;
where, as we staid to drink, an hospitable old Turk offered us the
entertainment of the place. We were then obliged to refuse the favour,
but not without a fresh regret at the inconveniency of our last night’s
lodging, when we might have easily passed on to this advantagous _conáck_.

We hence travel some hours in a narrow and almost deserted vale, the
_Caýster_ still flowing on our right hand; till about one a clock we
draw near to the extreme edge of the _Alymán_, a large mountain lying
betwixt the city of _Ephesus_ and the village of _Giamobasy_, and here
ending in an abrupt precipice; on the top of which stands an old castle
now converted, as is said, into a college of _dervíses_. Near this
place the _Caýster_ mingles with a large and muddy lake, which most
probably was the _Stagnum Pegasaeum_, mentioned by _Pliny_[38], as having
communication with this river. The _Alymán_ we take to be the _Mons
Gallesius_ of the antients[39]; since the _Mimas_[40], for which some
have lately mistaken it, is the highest part of _Erythréa_, or that cape
land, which encloses the bay of _Smyrna_.

We now thought it more advisable not to reach _Ephesus_ till the cool
of the morning, but to pass this evening at _Kirkingécui_, a Christian
village, lying near two hours to the east of the city. In search of this
place our guide unfortunately led us to the left of the above mentioned
lake, up a steep craggy and almost impassible mountain; which when with
great difficulty we had conquered, and descended in a way almost as
tedious on the other side, we were acquainted by a traveler, that we
were out of our road either to _Ephesus_ or _Kirkingécui_. This struck a
damp upon our spirits, being now obliged to tread back so many unwelcome
steps in the heat of the day, despair of all present refreshment, and
fearful apprehensions of the miscarriage of our mules. It was therefore
voted necessary to hire the above mentioned traveler to conduct us to our
village, who accordingly led us by a long and tedious way almost under
the castle of _Ephesus_. But from hence we had an hour and an half of
pleasant and diverting riding, betwixt two shelving hills, watered at
the bottom with a purling brook; whilst on each side we were entertained
with a shady scene of bays, myrtle, oleander, Spanish broom, the plane
tree, Judas tree, the strawberry tree, lilach tree, and a multitude of
other delightful greens. The frequent stops and misfortunes of this
day’s journey had made it almost eight a clock, when we arrived at
_Kirkingécui_; where to our incredible satisfaction we found our tents
already pitched by our muliteers, who by an unknown and unbeaten path,
over two or three mountains, had at last fallen upon the village, more by
good fortune than any conduct of their own.


May i. 1699.

The village of _Kirkingécui_ is intirely Christian, and supposed to be
the miserable remains of the church of _Ephesus_. The παπᾶς, or _priest_,
here pretended to shew us a venerable manuscript of the _Evangelists_,
wrote, as he said, by _Prochorus_, one of the _seven deacons_, mentioned
in the _Acts of the Apostles_[41]. Upon inspection the character indeed
appeared antient, and possibly may be that of the sixth or seventh
century; but the book itself is nothing else but a _Lectionarium_, or
_Copy of the Gospels_, so portioned into lessons, according to the ritual
of the Greek church, that, begining at _St. John_ on Easter day, the
four _Evangelists_ are read out by the return of the year. The sight of
that manuscript, and of the small parish church, was the business of
this morning; after which we descended by the same pleasant road, which
we had traveled last night, and so arriving about ten a clock we take
possession of the public _kane_ at _Ephesus_[42].

The once glorious and renowned _Ephesus_ was seated in a fruitful vale,
encompassed almost round with mountains[43], at a small distance from the
_Caýster_, and about five miles eastward from cape _Trogilium_; where, at
the common charge of all _Ionia_, the _Panionia_, or _common councils of
Ionia_, were formerly celebrated. This vale rises advantagously in the
middle with two or three little hills[44], on which the several parts of
the antient city lay extended. The same spot of ground is still covered
with the rich remains of its former glory. Such are the massy walls, the
portals, the arches, the aqueducts, the marble chests, together with the
dejected cornishes, shafts, and capitals of many lofty pillars. But the
face of the whole yeilds a melancholy and disagreable prospect, being
overrun with an incredible quantity of rank and luxuriant weeds, which
serve only to corrupt the air, and to conceal the curiosities of the
place. This we found to be a disadvantagous circumstance, and such as
doubled the labour of this day in compassing the circuit of the city,
and tracing the uncertain footsteps of so many valuable antiquities. But
because these cannot so intelligibly be represented in the order, in
which we viewed them, we shall methodically consider _Ephesus_, as lying
in three distinct ruins of a Turkish, Christian, and Heathen city.

The freshest ruins of this place appear to be Turkish, and such as
witness, that it has been in considerable repute even under its last
barbarous conqueror; who also has changed the name of _Ephesus_ into that
of _Aiasalúck_. Here are to be seen the remains of five or six _mosques_,
besides one which is still used for Mahometan service. In several
places there occur the walls of ruined bagnios, tho they are incredibly
increased by the fabulous Turks, and reported to have been here to the
number of three hundred and sixty six. But that, which most plainly
evidences the late riches of the place, are the many beautiful monuments,
which we viewed among their burying places, most of them inscribed with
fair Turkish characters. Tis observable, that these are cut rising
from the plane of the stone, and not indented within the surface; which
is the constant fashion of the Turks in all their public monuments, in
opposition to the custom of other times and nations. It is not certain,
whether the new castle, which stands to the northward of the old citadel,
be of Grecian or Turkish fabric; however it is still kept in repair by
the Turks, and filled within the circuit of the walls with fifty or sixty
small cottages, which with two or three scattering tenements are the only
habitations of the present _Ephesus_.

For such monuments of Christianity, as are here visited by travelers,
we are beholden to the tradition of the neighbouring Christians; who
shew the place of _St. Mark’s_ and _St. Paul’s_ church, together with
the standing walls of that dedicated to _St. John_; which last apostle,
returning from his banishment in _Patmos_ upon the death of _Domitian_,
lived, and died, and was interred at _Ephesus_[45]. The church of _St.
John_, tho still entire, is however miserably transformed, and converted
into the profane use of a Turkish _mosque_. Like all other _mosques_ of
the better fashion, it has a square and spacious yard on the north side,
with three different entrances belonging to it. Those to the east and
west are reasonably well beautified, being adorned above the portals
with curious Turkish sculptures, and materials of rich polished marble.
From this yard we enter the _mosque_ by five wooden doors, all of which
are carved to an exquisite perfection. Within appear a splendid pulpit
and _kiblé_, both consisting of wrought marble, and the latter more
particularly imbellished with painting and gilding of great art and
variety. But what are most justly admired and celebrated by all, who
have traveled hither, are the four pillars of granate marble, standing
in a right line from east to west, and supporting two cupolas, that
compose the roof. They are so far disproportioned, that the least is
almost three, and the biggest near four feet diameter; besides which
the pedestals of some are quite covered with the floor, and all besides
one, which is of the compound order, have lost their antient capitals.
All these are circumstances, which unanswerably demonstrate, that these
pillars are now transported from their first places. And in truth, when
the whole fabric is diligently compared with all other Turkish _mosques_,
and this consideration further added, that there appears no sign of
an altar to the east, or door to the west end; it will be more than
probable, that nothing but the southern wall can be the remains of a
Christian church. About a mile to the south west of this place, and in
the midst of the antient city, stands an high wall, and adjoining thereto
a stately gatehouse, in which are these words, most curiously engraven:

        .... ACCENSO ....
    .... RENSI ET ASIAE ...

Together with this imperfect inscription are to be seen the defaced
figure of a man on horseback, and another of a serpent twisted round a
tree. This is by most adjudged to be a Christian ruin; and indeed if we
consider its beauty and grandeur, as it can be no very modern building,
so by reason of its misplaced carvings and inverted inscriptions it
cannot be very antient; but may conveniently be refered to those
times, in which Christianity began to flourish here. And after this
there will be room to put in another conjecture, and to guess from the
stateliness of the fabric, that it might be the place, where that famous
general council of almost two hundred bishops condemned the heresy
of _Nestorius_, in the year four hundred thirty one; tho his errors
are still living among the Indians and Chaldeans, two sects which are
numerous in the eastern parts of _Asia_[46]. Those other Christian
monuments, which are commonly shewn at _Ephesus_, are merely fabulous;
and serve only to cheat and abuse the curiosity of many travelers, who
undergo no little pains and difficulty in coming hither. Such are the
_cave of the seven sleepers_; the _font_, in which _St. John_ is said to
have baptized so many primitive Christians; and a square watch tower,
which ordinarily goes by the name of _St. Paul’s prison_. This last
stands upon a small hill, about a mile nearer the sea, than was the
_temple of Diana_; and is indeed worth visiting by those, who have not
so much superstition or credulity; for its situation gives a commanding
prospect over the stream of the _Caýster_, which here seems to rival the
_Maeander_, and plays with many wanton windings in the adjoining plain.

The chief heathen antiquities, that are to be seen at _Ephesus_, are
the remainder of the _old citadel_, and the foundation of the _temple
of Diana_. The former of these is an intire gate, with two broken walls
adjoining on each side, which being situated on a convenient ascent,
towards the north east of the ancient city, most probably was a sort
or citadel, that defended it on that quarter. This gatehouse has the
marks of considerable antiquity, tho it has been rebuilt from other more
antient ruins; as is evident from some misplaced stones, and broken
reversed inscriptions, that occur in the work. Among these are viewed
with great satisfaction three flat marble stones, curiously cut in _basso
relievo_; which tho of different design, and unequal breadth, are placed
in a line to adorn the arch of the gate.

The first of these marbles (reckoning from the left hand as we front
the gate) has been somewhat injured by time; but from the portraiture
of grapes and baskets, and four or five figures in gay and youthful
postures, it may be presumed to represent a _Bacchanal_.

The second marble is a military piece, consisting of many intire figures,
all cut in postures very bold and masterly, and such as undoubtedly are
the work of some noble hand. It designs a warlike horse surprized by
an enemy, with his rider lying at his feet; near which several persons
are carried captive by Roman soldiers. The chieftain stands by, and
is supplicated by a woman in a large loose mantle, whose intercession
seems to intercept the action. This has been by some refered to the
_destruction of Troy_, and by others to a Christian persecution; but with
greater probability it may be thought to represent the event of some
Roman victory.

The third marble is a sepulchral monument, and represents a dead person
extended, from his knees upwards, on a funeral bed; the chief mourner
sitting, and five other persons standing in a melancholy posture, and
lamenting over him. These likewise are very lively figures, and cut with
an inimitable perfection.

Of the _temple of Diana_ there are extant no considerable ruins, nor
any thing that is lofty and beautiful enough to bespeak it the remains
of that famous structure. But in a marshy ground, near the _Lacus
Selenusius_[47], betwixt the haven _Panórmus_[48] and the place of
the antient city, there stand two broken pieces of a massy wall, in
which both the present tradition, and accounts of antient geographers,
exactly conspire to prove them the small reliques of the temple. As
they themselves consist of square hewn stone, so they are surrounded
with heaps of the same materials, among which occur some lofty dejected
pillars of beautiful and splendid marble. Under the highest of these
ruinous walls there descends an artificial passage, which after two
or three short turnings proceeds in a straight line thro many narrow
rooms and alleys. This, tho dark and noisome, is customarily visited by
travelers, with the assistance of a candle and clue of thread; and is
called, by we know not what fancy, the _labyrinth of Diana’s temple_. But
as we observed the like under several large structures, some at _Sardis_,
and others at this very place; so it is notorious, that this is but the
ordinary method of strengthening any great foundation, and securing the
building by subterraneous arches. Returning from this cavity the traveler
has nothing else in view, but venerable heaps of rubbish, and uncertain
traces of foundations; and must be forced to supply his curiosity with
considering, that this was the place, where once stood and flourished
that renowned wonder of the world.

The first temple had been burnt on the same night, in which _Alexander
the Great_ was born; and this second was then rebuilding, when that
prince was residing at _Ephesus_, and pursuing his conquests in _Asia
Minor_. He contributed sumptuously to the expence, and afterwards
proposed to reimburse the whole, if the Ephesians would consent to
inscribe his name upon the fabric[49]. But those citizens had an ambition
equal to that of Alexander, and therefore diverted his desires by a
fulsom compliment, and the dedication of a famous picture; which was
Alexander himself armed with thunder, designed by the inimitable Apelles,
and valued at twenty talents of gold[50]. _Pliny_ has likewise told us,
that this temple was adorned with an hundred and twenty seven pillars,
each sixty feet high, thirty six of which were carved, and that by the
celebrated hand of _Scopas_. The whole structure was four hundred and
twenty five feet in length, and two hundred and twenty feet in breadth;
and was founded in this watry ground, out of a vain hope to secure it by
that means against time and earthquakes.

These are the most remarkable curiosities either of Turkish, Christian,
or Heathen antiquity, which in the space of this afternoon we observed at
_Ephesus_. Besides which we viewed many intire pillars of an aqueduct,
that passes over the plain from the southern hills; as also in two places
the uncertain footsteps of a theatre; and without the new castle a full
face[51], with two serpents (cut on a stone) whose heads meet over it,
and their bodies descend on each side. This monument is supposed to
represent _Diana_, in the two characters of _Luna_ and _Proserpine_.
But it is to be wished, that some curious traveler might remain two or
three days at _Ephesus_; during which time by removing the weeds, and
clearing the confused ruins, he might possibly discover many valuable
inscriptions; as by the benefit of a ladder he might take one or two from
the wall above mentioned under the Christian ruins, which to our great
dissatisfaction we found not legible from the ground.

Among the few imperfect inscriptions discoverable in so short a stay,
the name of P. VEDIVS ABOSCANTVS, with mention of his wife and daughter,
is once or twice repeated both in Greek and Latin. And ΑΤΤΙΚΟΝ ΗΡΩΔΗΝ,
or the name of that ingenious Roman, whose part is so entertaining in
the _Noctes Atticae_ of _Gellius_, is preserved on a fragment among the
pillars of the aqueduct. In the same place is frequent mention of _M.
Antoninus_, once particularly on occasion of an honour done by the city
to his daughter _Fadilla_.

    ΦΑΔΙΛΛΑΝ ΘΥΓΑΤΕΡΑ Μ. ΑΥΡΗΛΙΟΥ ΑΝΤΩΝΕΙΝΟΥ
    ΚΑΙΣΑΡΟΣ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΥ[52]

This distich likewise on the castle gate is remarkable for the word
_Ptelea_, an old name of _Ephesus_, which occurs in it.

    ΤΟΥΤΟΝ ΟΝ ΕΙΣΟΡΑΑΣ ΤΥΠΟΝ ΟΡΘΙΟΝ ΑΝΤΩΝΙΝΟΥ
    ΔΩΡΟΘΕΟΣ ΠΤΕΛΕΗ ΘΗΚΑΤΟ ΚΡΥΠΤΟΜΕΝΟΝ

An invaluable inscription this, if the thing, to which it relates, had
been found with it; for it seems to imply the hiding of a medal under the
stone, which bore the inscription, that so, when time should destroy the
building, the emperor’s face might be communicated to posterity.

Our way did not lead us by the aqueduct six miles from the city, in which
is to be seen that large Latin and Greek inscription, printed in Sir
George Wheler’s _Travels_[53]. Nor did we find those imperfect lines,
which he took from a stone half buried in the ground[54]. But there is
this perfect inscription on a stone near the gate of the old citadel,
with which we shall here finish our account of _Ephesus_.

    Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΕΤΕΙΜΗΣΕΝ ΠΟΠΛΙΟΝ ΑΙΛΙΟΝ ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΟΝ
    ΑΠΟΛΛΟΔΩΡΟΝ ΑΣΠΕΝΔΙΟΝ ΦΙΛΟΛΟΓΟΝ ΤΟ ΔΕ ΜΝΗ-
    ΜΕΙΟΝ ΚΑΤΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕΝ ΠΟΠΛΙΟΣ ΑΙΛΙΟΣ ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΟΣ
    ΖΩΙΛΟΣ Ο ΑΔΕΛΦΟΣ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΖΗ


May ii.

It was a rainy and tempestuous morning, when, as we lay yet a sleep
in the public _kane_, a terrible clap of thunder discharged itself
seemingly in the very room. The vehemence of the noise awakened us in
great astonishment; and our eyes were no sooner opened, but the whole
place seemed to be filled with a red blaze of fire. Each person was
first solicitous for the safety of his companions, and afterwards for
that of the horses, which were dispersed in their stations about the
door. But finding that we had received no detriment, either in our goods
or persons, we blessed God for our deliverance; and concluded by an
infallible argument, that the displosion must needs be extremely near us,
in that the light continued for some time after the sound.

We mount by six a clock, and now determine our return to _Smyrna_; to
which there lies a straight tho difficult and craggy road, over the top
of the _Alymán_; upon which account we thought it preferable to take the
way of the plains. This first led us over the bridge of the _Caýster_,
and then quickly after round the abrupt precipice of the _Alymán_, and
that old castle upon its edge, which we had before so much in view, as
we rode from _Tyria_. From hence we pass thro a variety of low woods
and pastures, which in themselves were pleasant and diverting; tho the
fountains being all dry about this quarter, we were much distressed for
want of water. About four hours and a quarter from _Ephesus_ we descry
on our left hand, on the rising of the hill, the deplorable remainder of
the castle of _Metropolis_; and at the foot thereof such apparent traces
of foundations, with variety of hewn marble, as permitted us no longer
to doubt concerning the place of that waste city. And it may be added,
that computing our way by hours, as _Strabo_ does by furlongs[55], we did
not greatly differ from his account, who places it at little more than a
third part of the distance betwixt _Ephesus_ and _Smyrna_. Not far from
hence we begin to approach a small, tho not shallow river, runing on our
right hand, which probably is the _Phyrites_ of _Pliny_[56] mingling,
as he describes it, with the _Caýster_, not far from the _Stagnum
Pegasaeum_, or that lake, which we before observed in our way from
_Tyria_ to _Ephesus_. Beyond this river we saw a large extended pasture,
overspread with the flocks, herds, and tents of _Turcmen_. They had here
pitched their station to the number of fourteen hundred; for as we staid
to taste their milk, and to view their habitations, they themselves gave
us this account, reckoning about two hundred tents, and seven persons
more or less appertaining to each. As the whole race of the Turks were
nothing else but a numerous colony, that swarmed from _Scythia_; so these
_Turcmen_ seem to be the peculiar descendants of the _Nomades Scythae_,
or _Shepherd Scythians_, and like them make it their employment to breed
and nurture cattle. To this end they never assemble in towns, or betake
themselves to houses; but flit from place to place, as the season of the
year directs, and seize without control the vast neglected pastures of
this desert empire.

In two hours and three quarters from _Metropolis_ we arrive at _Trianta_,
a small but pleasant village, seated on a dry soil, and enjoying a very
healthful air; where we proposed to _conáck_ this evening. An _agá_ here
hospitably accommodated us with the convenience of his country house, and
likewise treated us with a small collation after the Turkish fashion.


May iii.

By seven a clock we leave _Trianta_, crossing a little river within the
limits of the village, and at an hour’s distance another of the same
bigness; one or both of which, as they unite in the bottom of the plain,
must be the antient _Halésus_, that ran into the sea at _Colophon_. We
continue in a large and beaten road, leaving _Giamóbashy_ on our left
hand, till having _Sedícui_ now in view, we cross over a watry bottom
to shorten our way thither. Here we arrive about ten a clock, and stop
to refresh ourselves in the consul’s country house; where after a long
disuse of chairs, which are not the fashion of the Turks, we once more
had the pleasure of sitting down to diner.

Having mounted soon after three, the worshipful consul Raye, with
several gentlemen of our nation, did us the honour to meet us about
two miles distance from the village. On these therefore we waited home
the remainder of our way, and so returned before six a clock in good
health to _Smyrna_; having been much obliged to Mr. Whalley for his
care and conduct, as well as mutually to one another for that chearful
and unanimous temper, which sweetened all our travels, and deceived the
several fatigues of this laborious journey.

[Illustration]




[Illustration]




An Account of a voyage from _Smyrna_ to _Constantinople_, and a journey
back from thence to _Smyrna_, in the year MDCCI.


March xxvi.

This day I took my passage for _Constantinople_ on board the _King
William_ galley, captain Nehemiah Winter commander, and accordingly went
on board at six a clock in the evening; being favoured with the company
of Mr. Dunster, Mr. Turner, and Mr. Clotterbooke, who after a short
repast returned a shore. On the same ship imbarked for _Constantinople_
the _barút agá_ of _Smyrna_, with his _harém_, and a numerous family.


March xxvii.

We set sail this morning with a gentle gale, which served us as far as
_St. George’s_ island, that lies before the harbour of _Fochia Vecchia_,
that is _Phocaea_; betwixt which and the sand head, occasioned by the
discharge of the river _Hermus_, we came to an anchor at the approach of
the evening.


March xxviii.

We set sail early this morning with little or no wind, the whole day
continuing calm till towards the evening; when the gale began to grow
fresh, and favouring us all night advanced us betwixt the main land of
_Aeolia_ and the island of _Mitylene_, or _Lesbos_, leaving the bay of
_Cuma_, now called _Sotaléa_, upon our right hand.


March xxix.

This morning with a contrary and very gentle gale we turn betwixt the
island and the main, having a fair view of the harbour, city, and castle
of _Mitylene_[57]; the last of which seems to be large and well walled,
declining with a moderate descent on the side of a gentle hill. The
same coast of the island is stored with many pleasant and considerable
villages, well furnished with arable and pasture ground, and large woods
at a distance, said to abound with deer. This day we advanced no farther
than the isles of _Musconisia_, formerly _Arginusae_[58], situated
betwixt the continent of _Aeolia_ and the island of _Mitylene_. Here
therefore we came to anchor about midday, lying opposite to the mouth
of the _Idaean_ or _Adramyttian_ gulph, made by the two promontories of
_Cana_ on one side, and _Lecton_ on the other, and fenced towards the
continent of _Troas_ (for so that whole region may be called) with the
snowy and aspiring top of mount _Ida_.


March xxx.

This morning the wind springing fair about four a clock, we advance
betwixt the island of _Mitylene_ and the main of _Aeolia_, the narrowed
_bogáz_ is made by cape _Siguri_, antiently _Sigrium_, on the island
side, and cape _Babá_, formerly _Lecton_, on that of the main. Near
midday we begin to turn this latter cape, and thereby to gain the sight
of _Imbros_ and _Tenedos_; _Lemnos_ not discovering itself till some
hours afterwards, as we advanced with calm weather betwixt _Tenedos_ and
the _Trojan_ shore; when the low land of _Lemnos_, with the round and
exalted top of _Athos_ on the other side of it, gave us a delightful
prospect.


March xxxi.

This day turning to windward, we advance by nine a clock between the town
of _Tenedos_ and the _Trojan_ shore, the narrow distance of about six
or seven miles allowing us a distinct prospect of each. _Tenedos_ is a
middle sized compact town, fortified with a castle, seated immediately on
the shore, and fenced toward the land with a round hill; but exposed to
the sea without the advantage of any deep gulph, or commodious harbour.
The whole island is green and level, and has the appearance, as well as
reputation, of a rich and fertile soil. The wind not favouring us from
hence, we proceed slowly the whole day with calm and serene weather;
and turning betwixt _Tenedos_ and the _Phrygian_ continent, after
enjoying the delightful sight of the _Trojan_ campain on one side, and of
_Tenedos_, _Imbros_, and _Samothracia_ on the other, we anchored about
six in the evening under the celebrated promontory of _Sigéum_.


April i.

Early in the morning we endeavour to make sail from _Sigéum_, but being
taken in a dead calm, we were employed the whole day in warping, that so
passing the mouth of the _Hellespont_ we might lie (if occasion should so
require) sheltered by the new castle, and the point on which it stands.
Having with great fatigue made two or three warps, the wind at length
favoured us so far, as to advance us two leagues within the said new
castle of _Natolia_, when the captain thought it better to anchor, than
to proceed in so narrow a chanel and so dark a night.

At this place it will be most proper to set down my thoughts of _Troy_,
and the whole _Trojan_ shore, which for the space of three days I viewed
at a convenient distance in calm and serene weather from the poop of the
ship, feeding my eyes and mind with an eager and boundless curiosity.
That, which in a large sense was called of old by _Strabo_, as at present
by the modern Greeks, the campain of _Troas_, begins at the promontory
of _Lecton_, and then fronting the isle of _Tenedos_ ends in a delicious
green and level country, as far as the strait of the _Hellespont_. But
from the begining of this strait we sail by the main of that, which is
properly to be called the campain of _Troy_. And because our modern
travelers give a wild and indistinct account of this famous place, I
shall endeavour to describe the bounds, and situation of it, in as clear
and distinct terms as possible.

From cape _Sigéum_ (whence antiently was computed the entrance of the
_Hellespont_) you sail about five miles, till you come opposite to the
mouth of the _Scamander_; and from thence about two miles farther to a
small prominence of land, by the antients called _Rhoetéum_. Betwixt this
_Rhoetéum_ and _Sigéum_, the marine, which bent in an even uninterrupted
semicircle, afforded a commodious station for the Grecian fleet[59].
But as _Strabo_ well observes, that in his time the _Scamander_ began to
interrupt this station, by the sand it discharges on the shore; so it has
since gained more considerably on the sea, and formed that whole tongue
of land, on which is now built the new castle of _Natolia_. However in
the days of _Priam_ the shore was undoubtedly more regular, as well as
more retired. And opposite thereto in the adjoining continent, at such a
distance as would admit the engagements, the flights, the pursuits, and
the encampments of each army (as they are all described by _Homer_) we
are to conceive of the walls and buildings of antient _Troy_. But still
we must be cautious of pointing out, and distinguishing the very place;
since in the reign of _Tiberius Caesar_ we are assured by _Strabo_, that
there remained not the least footstep of antient _Troy_ to satisfy the
curiosity of the most searching traveler[60]. So vain are the accounts
of our modern _journalists_, who pretend to have seen the walls, the
gates, or other ruins of _Troy_; that, which now remains, being nothing
but the rubbish of new _Ilium_, or of that city once attempted there by
_Constantine_.


April ii.

We endeavour this morning to continue our voyage, but make no
considerable progress; because the gentle gale, that favoured us, could
not prevail against the current of the _Hellespont_, which perpetually
flows with a full and rapid course into the _Aegéan_ sea. We therefore
drive back, and content ourselves with coming to an anchor in the same
place, from whence we weighed this morning; taking the opportunity of
going to dine on the Asian shore. After midday a fresher wind advanced us
within a small distance from the old castles; where it again deserted us,
and obliged us to drop anchor a second time, to maintain the way we had
gained in opposition to the violent stream of this chanel.


April iii.

We continue anchored at the same place, being all this day entirely
becalmed. And the day following, the calm having changed into a contrary
wind detained us still at the same anchor. But however disagreeable this
interruption in the course of our voyage might prove to some others of
the company, the leisure of those two days was to me very grateful.
Nor could I esteem it any loss of time, but rather an advantage, on
account of the favourable and unexpected opportunity it afforded me of
visiting two so famous castles, together with the villages adjoining to
them[61]. Going ashore therefore in the captain’s pinnace to the town
on the Asian side (formerly called _Abýdos_[62], but by the Turks _Eskí
Natolia Hisar_) with great pleasure I walked about the place, but found
no footsteps of antiquity[63]. The town is large, but mean; yet famous
for a curious sort of earthen ware finely glazed, which is made here, and
vended in great quantities. The castle is intire, of a square figure,
with bastions projecting at each corner, and with one side flanks the
water on a level shore; where are to be seen betwixt twenty and thirty
vast guns, such as perhaps are no where else to be found, except in
some other parts of Turkey. They are of brass, and have a bore at least
three quarters of a yard diameter; and are charged with stone bullets of
the same dimensions, which lie at hand spherically cut. The charge of
powder, as I was informed on the place by the _barút agá_ of _Smyrna_,
is an hundred and five _okes_. From _Abýdos_ I crossed over in a small
wherry to _Sestos_[64], that is, from _Natolia_ to _Rumeli Hisar_, and
in the way observed the art of the boatman in avoiding the force of the
current, a circumstance mentioned by _Strabo_[65]. This town stands on a
precipice, descending steeply towards the sea shore; and is better built,
tho less, than _Abýdos_. It has a castle consisting of a triangular
tower, enclosed within an high wall of this [Illustration] figure, and
that again with another triangular wall, all surrounded with a deep foss.
In the same level with the water are mounted about thirty guns, of the
same or rather bigger size than those of _Natolia Hisar_; and by each lie
great heaps of stones, cut spherically to the dimensions of each canon.
In relation to this town of _Sestos_, and the tower of _Leander_, once
adjoining to the shore a little above the town, I remembered that request
of _Musaeus_:

                  Σὺ δ’ εἴποτε κεῖθι περήσεις,
    Δίζεό μοι τινὰ πύργον[66].


April v.

This morning a fresh wind favouring us at south west we set sail by six
a clock, and passing the forementioned castles, within a league on the
European shore, arrive at the town _Maitos_, antiently _Madytos_[67],
seated on a low land within a small recess of the sea, and inhabited
intirely by Greeks. The campain on each side is delightful to the
traveler, as well as fertile to the inhabitants; being for the most
part of a level situation, and in the neighbourhood of the villages it
possesses, well cultivated and distinguished into pastures. About three
leagues from _Maitos_ we view on the same shore two pleasant and well
situated villages, by the name of the _Lesser_ and _Greater Galata_.
Thence about the distance of two leagues we arrive betwixt _Lampsacus_
on the Asian, and _Callipolis_ on the European shore; the former a small
town, and the latter a city of no inconsiderable extent; so that now they
have changed their fortune, and that character, which they bore in the
time of _Strabo_[68]. About twelve leagues from _Callipolis_ lies the
island _Marmora_, exceeding high ground, abounding with rich veins of
durable and pretious marble; the same of which has given it the name of
_Marmora_, instead of the ancient _Proconésus_. Adjoining to this are two
lesser isles, _Kutali_ and _Alonia_, the latter eminent for the product
of excellent wines. Betwixt these islands and the beautiful Thracian
shore, which here graces the _Propontis_, we were advanced by a brisk and
favourable gale at the approach of the evening, and from thence are now
continuing our voyage, with the same auspicious wind, and hopes, if God
permit, to arrive at _Constantinople_ early by to morrow morning.


April vi.

Before ten last evening the wind having changed to our disadvantage, we
find ourselves this morning but little advanced from _Marmora_; however
by the benefit of turning to windward, we proceeded this day about the
distance of ten leagues. Every other tack brought us near to the Thracian
shore, and entertained us with a fair view of the most green and fertile
campain I ever yet beheld. By the same means we enjoyed the opportunity
of seeing the famous port and city of _Heracléa_, built behind a small
eminence, which protends itself into the sea, and forms an haven on each
side of the city. Not far from hence stands on the same shore the fair
town of _Selymbria_; near which the night now overtakes us, and deprives
us of that delicious prospect, which the whole day afforded us, of the
feilds of Thrace. It was on this day, that captain Winter wanting his log
line to be brought him from a chest in the great cabin, was not permitted
by the _barút agá_ to send any person down for it, by reason of his
_harém_ being there. At length he yeilded to let the captain’s son go, a
child of about eight years of age.


April vii.

Early this morning I betake myself to the enjoyment of the same diverting
prospect, whilst the ship, by the benefit of tacking, passes by _Grande_
and _Piccolo Ponte_; and so betwixt nine and ten of the clock comes to
an anchor within a short league of the _Seven Towers_, a castle which
forms the extreme point of _Constantinople_. Here we continued wind bound
the remainder of this day, because the narrowness of the chanel, into
which we were now to enter; and the force of the current, which runs very
rapidly out of the Thracian _Bosphorus_; did not suffer us to advance
against the violent north wind.


April viii.

This morning about nine a clock the wind, which changed nothing of its
point, yet abated so much of its strength, that it permitted us to turn
from the _Seven Towers_ along the bending walls of _Constantinople_, as
far as the _Seraglio point_. But the violence of the current prohibiting
us to make the harbour of _Galata_, the ship was again obliged to drop
anchor, and wait till she could either make sail with a fair wind, or
take the opportunity of a calm to be towed in by _hamáls_. We had not
long cast anchor, when my esteemed freind, Mr. Matthias Goodfellow, was
pleased to visit me on board the ship; and carrying me ashore in the
boat, which brought him, first introduced me to his excellency, the Lord
Paget, and then kindly allotted me a pleasant and convenient apartment in
his house at _Galata_.


April xiii.

This day I attended the funeral of Signior _Demetrasco_, chief _dragoman_
to the English ambassador, who tho by faith a Latin, yet by birth was
of the Greek nation. And accordingly in the way of burying proper to
this latter, I observed the manner of carrying the corps of the deceased
barefaced, clothed in his late usual habit, and supported by four of his
nearest relations; who were followed by women slaves, hired to make a
hideous pomp, by tearing their hair, extorting forced and counterfeit
tears, and repeating in a continual loud and frightful lamentation, ὦ
ἀφέντη μου; that is, _O my master!_


April xv.

I paid a visit to Signior _Rombarts_, a gentile and ingenious merchant
of the Dutch nation, at his house in _Curuchesmée_, a village on the
Thracian _Bosphorus_. Here I observed a _sophá_ room remarkably adorned
after the richest Turkish fashion, the roof formed into a cupola, and the
gilding and painting of the whole so splendidly curious, that it amounted
at first to the sum of four thousand _hungárs_, or two thousand pounds
sterling.


April xvii.

I took the opportunity of passing over the chanel to _Constantinople_, in
company of Signior _Wright_, the Dutch minister of this place, with whom
I visited the _mint_; the _Grand Signior’s_ lions; and the _mosques_ of
_Sultan Solymán_, _Sultan Bajazet_, _Sultan Achmét_, and the _Validée_.
That of _Bajazet_ and the _Validée_ are adorned only with two _minarées_,
that of _Solymán_ with four, and that of _Achmét_ with six. They all much
resemble one another, both in the inward and outward figure. They first
consist of a spatious court, enriched all round with fair and regular
cloisters formed by pillars, some of whose shafts are carved with white
marble, some with serpentine stone, and some with porphyry; but all
the capitals are of the modern Turkish figure. Next is the body of the
_mosque_, covered outwardly with domes, and supported inwardly with four
massy pillars, from the tops of which rises a regular cupola, forming
the roof of the whole _mosque_. Whoever exactly compares the beauty and
grandeur of these several _mosques_, will find that of _Solymán_ more
regular, and artificial in the outward frame; that of _Achmét_ more
magnificent in the whole, and on the outside more beautiful in the work
of the pillars; that of the _Validée_, tho less in bulk and extent than
the other two, yet more curious in the inward ornaments and workmanship
than either; and that of _Bajazet_, which is the oldest, inferior to
the rest both in bulk and beauty, except that some cast pillars, which
form the cloisters of the court, consist of a more polite, shining, and
pretious stone.

The same morning I visited the antient cirque of this city, a large
oblong space flanked on three sides with the houses of the city, and on
the fourth with the walls of the _mosque_ of _Sultan Achmét_. Therein
stand three pillars, the first of square stone, formerly covered with
gilded brass, at the end of the cirque, and supposed to have been the
goal of the _stadium_. It now declines much, having suffered greatly by
time, and openings in the several joints of the stones. The second pillar
is of wreathed brass, not above twelve feet high, lately terminated at
the top with figures of three serpents rising from the pillar, and with
their necks and heads forming a beautiful triangle. But this monument
was rudely broken from the top of the pillar by some attendants of the
late Polish ambassador, whose lodgings were appointed in this cirque,
opposite to the said pillar[69]. The third pillar is a long square stone,
or obelisk, decreasing gradually from its basis, till it ends almost in a
point. The matter is granate, or Theban marble; and each side is engraven
with birds, beasts, and other hieroglyphical figures[70]. This had once
lain upon the ground, and, as we may conceive from the inscriptions, a
considerable time; till _Theodosius_ erected it on a large and square
basis, adorned on each side with various images; and having fixt on the
top of this basis four brass supporters, on these he set the aforesaid
hieroglyphical Theban column. There is a Latin inscription on one side of
the basis, and a Greek one on the other, importing what I here mention
concerning the erection of the pillar. The Greek runs thus:

    ΚΙΟΝΑ ΤΕΤΡΑΠΛΕΥΡΟΝ ΑΕΙ ΧΘΟΝΙ ΚΕΙΜΕΝΟΝ ΑΧΘΟϹ
      ΜΟΥΝΟϹ ΑΝΑϹΤΗϹΑΙ ΘΕΥΔΟϹΙΟϹ ΒΑϹΙΛΕΥϹ
    ΤΟΛΜΗϹΑϹ ΠΡΟΚΛΟϹ[71] ΕΠΕΚΕΚΛΕΤΟ ΚΑΙ ΤΟϹΟϹ ΕϹΤΗ
      ΚΙΩΝ ΗΕΛΙΟΙϹ ΕΝ ΤΡΙΑΚΟΝΤΑ ΔΥΩ

The Latin thus:

    DIFFICILIS QVONDAM DOMINIS PARERE SERENIS
    IVSSVS ET EXTINCTIS PALMAM PORTARE TYRANNIS
    OMNIA THEODOSIO CEDVNT SOBOLIQVE PERENNI[72]
    TER DENIS SIC VICTVS EGO DOMITVSQVE DIEBVS[73]

The remaining verse, mentioned by Sir _George Sandys_, is now covered in
the ground[74].


April xxii.

This day having first visited Mr. _Schrever_ (then ill of the plague,
of which he died two days after) in a small boat of the countrey, in
company with Mr. Goodfellow and Mr. Evans, I made a tour up the Thracian
_Bosphorus_. This chanel we may conceive to begin from the point of
_Scutari_ on one side, and that of _Tophana_ on the other; from whence
in a winding figure, graced on each side with _seraglios_ of the chief
courtiers of this empire, and on the marine with almost continued
villages, as also two castles in the narrowest part, it extends about
eighteen or twenty miles, as far as the antient rocky isles of the
_Symplegades_, which seem to open and shut, as one advances to them in
the _Bosphorus_[75]. The largest of them is situated on the European
shore, and till lately bore an antient Corinthian pillar, to which a
vulgar error has given the name of _Pompey’s column_. It was erected not
on a regular basis of its own, but upon an antient heathen altar, that
now only remains; the shaft and capital of the pillar, which have lately
fallen, being yet visible in four pieces among the cliffs of the rock. On
the aforesaid remaining altar may be read this inscription in large Roman
letters.

    DIVO CAESARI AUGVSTO
    L. CL. ANNIDIVS
    L. F. CLAV. FRONTO[76]

Returning from this pillar we stept on the adjoining shore, to see the
large and lofty lantern there erected for the direction of mariners at
the entrance of this difficult strait. About four miles from hence, in
returning thro the chanel, we go ashore on the European side to visit a
famous convent of Greek priests, by the name of _Mauromolos_, seated in
the cliff of an hill, and enjoying a beautiful church, adorned with many
rich pieces of religious furniture; as books bound in covers of massy
silver; an ἁγία πύλη, or _sacred curtain_[77], wrought both richly and
artfully in silk and golden figures; and a set of painting not of the
vulgar sort, but regular and proportionable, the most curious of which
was done in Muscovy. These fathers are exempted from their _harách_, on
account of a present of excellent fair cherries, once presented to the
_Grand Signior_. Over a fountain, that serves the convent with water,
they have this device, not more proper for the place, than ingenious for
the contrivance, in making the same words read forwards or backwards:

    ΝΙΨΟΝ ΑΝΟΜΗΜΑΤΑ ΜΗ ΜΟΝΑΝ ΟΨΙΝ[78]

I was this day a witness of the strong current flowing towards the
_Propontis_ from the _Euxine_ sea, as I had before observed it to force
into the _Mediterranean_ from the ocean. Both which are taken notice of
by _Lucan_:

    _Quaque fretum torrens Maeotidos egerit undas_
    _Pontus, et Herculeis aufertur gloria metis,_
    _Oceanumque negat solas admittere Gades[79]._


April xxvi.

This day I crossed the water from _Galata_ to visit the antient
_Chalcédon_, where I saw the poor Greek church dedicated to _St.
Euphemia_[80]; and a little distant from the present village, the place
where was held the fourth general council. Returning we row under the
shore, to see the _Grand Signior’s_ beautiful _seraglio_ near _Scutari_.
When _Chalcédon_ was an eminent city, which is now reduced to a slender
village; _Scutari_, which by a contrary event is at present a fair and
spatious city, was a poor and ignoble village, tho it then had the name
of _Chrysopolis_, as we find by _Zosimus_[81].


April xxviii.

I retired to _Belgrade_, a small Greek village, seated about twelve
miles from _Constantinople_, and about five from the _Euxine_ sea; where
the English ambassador has a countrey seat. It is pleasantly situated
among large woods of oak, beech, chesnut, and other trees, and enjoys an
healthy air and water. Here I took the opportunity of riding to visit the
famous aqueducts of _Constantinople_, distant from this village about
six miles, which were built by _Valentinian_ the first[82], _accurante
Clearcho praefecto_, as _Cassiodorus_ says[83]; and afterwards repaired
by _Solymán_ the _Magnificent_, who exempted twelve adjacent Greek
villages from the customary tribute of this empire, for the care he
enjoined them of keeping these aqueducts in repair. The most remarkable
of them are three great and lofty fabrics, built over so many valleys
betwixt the adjoining hills, of which the longest has many but less
arches, and may possibly be the entire work of _Solymán_. The other
two have the appearance of a more antient and regular architecture,
consisting of two rows of arches one over the other; and those of the
second row enclosed by pillars cut thro the middle, so as to render
the fabric both passable like a bridge, and useful for the conveyance
of water. The more considerable of these two consists only of four
large arches, each twenty yards long, and something above twenty high,
supported by octangular pillars of about fifty six yards in circumference
towards the bottom. The village of _Belgrade_ is likewise honoured with
two royal _kiosks_, the one of the _Grand Signior_, the other of the
_Validée_; each situated in two delightful recesses of the neighbouring
wood, and adorned with natural avenues thro lofty groves of beech, oak,
and chesnut. At each of these _kiosks_ the waters of the public aqueduct
are gathered into fair and ample cisterns of hewn stone, from whence they
pass in arched chanels under ground to the royal city.


May vii.

After a pleasant retirement of ten days at _Belgrade_ I returned to my
lodgings at _Galata_, to take the opportunity of seeing the remaining
curiosities of _Constantinople_.


May viii.

I walked almost thro the extent of the whole city to visit the famous
pillar of _Arcadius_, a lofty and aspiring fabric, of the Doric order,
built with a wonderful regularity and exactness of architecture, bearing
on the basis, and on the whole shaft from top to bottom, various warlike
figures of men in arms, chariots, galleys, and other ornaments, which
in a spiral manner encircle the whole pillar; every figure being so
well proportioned to the distance, from whence it is seen, that those
at the top, the middle, and the bottom, appear to the eye exactly of
the same size. Returning from this pillar I passed by the old pillar of
_Aurátbasar_, defaced by the several conflagrations of the city, and
bound in several places with rings of iron by the care and charge of the
emperor _Manuel_, as is witnessed by this inscription on the top.

    ΤΟ ΘΕΙΟΝ ΕΡΓΟΝ ΕΝΘΑΔΕ ΦΘΑΡΕΝ ΧΡΟΝΩ
    ΚΑΙΝΟΙ ΜΑΝΟΥΗΛ ΕΥϹΕΒΗϹ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΩΡ

From this pillar I was desirous of passing thro _Atmeidan_, that is the
_hippodromus_, or _cirque_ above mentioned, to review the _mosque_ of
_Sultan Achmét_, and make a stricter observation on the three pillars
there erected. Here I was informed, that the brass serpentine pillar
was erected by the emperor _Leo_, as a charm against the noisom number
of serpents, which in his time infested the city; the same person
superstitiously affirming, that since the late defacement of this pillar,
by the breaking of the serpents heads, the city was again molested by
innumerable noxious serpents. At the foot of the old pillar, formerly
covered with brass, I read the remains of that inscription once taken
by Sir _George Sandys_, but since his time part of it buried with
earth, and part broken away; which is very erroneously printed in his
_Travels_[84]. On the basis of the hieroglyphical pillar I observed the
carved representation of the pillar it self, together with the figures of
men labouring to erect it.


May ix.

By the interest of a Greek, who serves the _bostangí bashá_ as his
surgeon, I was admitted in company of Mr. John Philips, an eminent
merchant, into the great _seraglio_ of _Constantinople_, where we passed
thro two courts, that form the entry of the palace; the first of which
has a small arsenal, furnished with arms and ammunition; the second has
piazzas on two sides, in which the _janisaries_ are wont to eat, and
opens at the upper end into the _diván_. From these two courts we were
permitted to walk round the full extent of the garden, on each side of
the palace. They are rude and wild places, affording nothing that is
entertaining, but that wherewith nature has furnished them, which is
an admirable situation rising into convenient ascents, and capable of
infinite improvement, if it were happily in the possession of a Christian
prince. The whole plat of ground, which they call the gardens of the
_seraglio_, is covered with cypress and other trees, thro which are cut
shady walks, where _kiosks_ are seen of various sorts; the most eminent
and remarkable of which is that called the _Blew kiosk_, fronting the
town of _Scutari_. This and the other called the _Alaí kiosk_, fronting
the city of _Galata_, are rich and splendid pleasure houses, covered
with a gilded cupola, and adorned in their several walls with Indian
tiles, and stately chimneypieces of solid brass. Passing thro the extent
of the _seraglio_ towards the extreme point, that looks up the Thracian
_Bosphorus_, you observe a Corinthian pillar consisting of white marble,
of which the ignorant Turks report a fabulous and ridiculous account; but
its true original is discovered by this inscription on one plane of the
basis:

    FORTVNAE REDVCI OB
    DEVICTOS GOTHOS[85]

On the opposite plane is likewise this religious device:

    +--+--+
    |ΙϹ|ΧϹ|
    |ΝΙ|ΚΑ|
    +--+--+

Near this pillar we were admitted thro a gate, which opens into a green
court, and that again into a garden kept in somewhat a regular order.
From hence we ascend by a few steps into an apartment of the _Grand
Signior_, where are two rich _kiosks_, a fish pond, a paved walk, and
an open gallery. Here we were shewn the lodgings, where the unhappy
princes of the empire are detained prisoners, as also the dark chambers
of the _ichoglans_, and the door that leads into the _harém_ of the
_Grand Signior_. There also are shewn two or three instances of the
strength and the activity of _Sultan Morát_; as a ponderous round stone,
which with one finger he is said to have lifted by a ring fixt therein;
likewise five thick and substantial sheilds, which being placed upon
one another were peirced thro by a cast of his _jiríd_ still sticking
in them; also several silver pellets thrown by him with that violence,
as to stick in an iron door. The above mentioned gallery is rich and
splendid, adorned with various gilding of flower work, and supported
with beautiful serpentine pillars. In the sides of one of the _kiosks_
are three orbicular stones of fine porphyry, the middlemost of which
is curiously polished, and thereby serves to reflect the prospect of
the _seraglio_ and adjoining city, in the nature of a looking glass. At
the further end of the garden of the _seraglio_ are the intire walls of
an antient Christian church, and near to that the aviary of the _Grand
Signior_, where I observed the hens of _Grand Cairo_, having blue gills
and feathers curiously coloured with grey circles, and in the center of
each a spot of black.

This day I retired again to _Belgrade_, for the advantage of its healthy
air and water, and the entertainment of its shady situation. Hence on
the twelfth instant I made a tour towards _Domuzderé_, and the shore of
the _Black Sea_, on which we rode for some space of ground, and returned
by that called _Ovid’s Tower_, thro a fertile tract of ground, curiously
varied with corn, grass, and shady woods.


May xx.

I returned again to my lodgings at _Galata_, and the next day crossed the
water in company with Mr. Goodfellow to _Constantinople_, where after
a visit to the _mosque_ of _Solymán_ the _Magnificent_, we obtained
leave to ascend one of the _minarées_, from which the _muezins_ call the
Turks to their _namáz_, being about an hundred and twenty feet high.
Here we took a delightful prospect of the whole situation and extent
of _Stambol_, as likewise of _Galata_, _Pera_, and _Scutari_, with the
neighbouring seas, canals, and land that encloses them. But the peculiar
happiness of this day was the employment of about two hours, which we
leisurely spent in viewing the stupendous church of _Sophía_[86], now
profaned by its conversion into a Turkish _mosque_. It chiefly merits
the regard of any curious traveler for the reliques of its rich mosaic
work; the variety of pretious marble[87], which adorns it, consisting of
serpentine, alabaster, and porphyry; and the architecture of its large
and flat tho sublime cupola[88], in which are still the entire figures of
_Christ_ and the twelve _Apostles_, and in the windows many inscriptions
in mosaic work from the _New Testament_.


May xxiii.

I returned again to _Belgrade_, as well for the opportunity of confirming
my health, as for continuing my respects to his Excellency the Lord Paget.


June vi.

I waited on his Excellency from _Belgrade_ to _Pera_, going first to
_Boiukderé_ and thence down the _Bosphorus_ by boat.


June x.

I waited on his Excellency, as well to wish him a good journey, as to
receive his commands for _Smyrna_.


June xiii.

I returned to the house of my esteemed freind, Mr. Goodfellow, in
_Galata_; and the day following took leave of the Dutch ambassador and
his family.


June xvi.

I made a visit by boat to the _Seven Towers_, now a prison for persons
of quality, since by the fate of war it has fallen into the hands of
the Turks, but antiently the _Porta Janicula_ of _Constantinople_. The
beautiful remains of this gate are still admirable, tho by the Turks
suffered to be almost concealed by a dead wall, and the shade of the
neighbouring trees. It is a regular and carved arch of white marble,
supported by two beautiful pillars, adorned in the pilasters with a
sculpture representing several military affairs, and flanked on each side
the pillars with twelve tablets of carved work extremely well performed,
which contain several poetical stories. Among the rest is _Hercules_ and
the _Nemeaean lion_, the beast prodigious and terrible, but confessing
its conqueror by an agreable posture; _Luna_ and _Endymion_; a winged
_Pegasus_, managed by some of the _Muses_; a pourtraiture of the known
combat of whirlbats; and an imperial figure, crowned by two celestial
machines.

Returning by boat along the walls of the city, I observed its crooked
figure and posture to the sea; and noted also the several square towers
variously interspersed at unequal distances, each bearing an inscription
much to the same purport, as may be seen by the following copy, which I
took of them in the boat.

On a tower near the _Porta Janicula_:

    ΠΥΡΓΟΣ ΒΑϹΙΛΕΙΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΚΩΝϹΤΑΝΤΙΝΟΥ ΠΙϹΤΩΝ ΕΝ
    Κ̅Ω̅ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΝ

On a tower in that part of the wall, which includes the _seraglio_:

    ΠΥΡΓΟϹ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΜΕΓΑΛΟΥ ΕΝ ΚΥΡΙΩ ΒΑϹΙΛΕΩϹ
    ΚΑΙ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟϹ.

Round the same _seraglio_:

    ΠΥΡΓΟϹ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΕΝ ΧΡΙϹΤΩ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟϹ

About the same place:

    ΠΥΡΓΟϹ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΜΙΧΑΗΛ ΠΙϹΤΩΝ ΕΝ Κ̅Ω̅
    ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΝ.


June xvii.

About midday I saw the ceremonies of the _dervíse_ convent of the order
called _Meuleví_ at _Pera_, consisting of their _namáz_, somewhat longer
than is ordinary at other times and places. After which followed a
sermon, that is, a gallimaufry of dreams and nonsense, pronounced by the
prior of the convent, as he sat cross-leg’d on the seat of a two elbowed
wooden chair. This was succeeded by their music in a gallery over the
door; during which about fourteen _dervíses_ led up a religious dance
in the area of their theatre (for such is the figure and contrivance of
it) in which they turn round almost in the same place with incredible
swiftness, without either weariness or giddiness, for the space of half
an hour. By this exercise their brain is so habitually fortified against
dizziness, that one of them was able to hand upon the half moon of a
_minarée_ belonging to the _Solymanjá_, and from thence to salute the
_Grand Signior_ at his palace of _Cushcui_, at the same time firing off a
pistol, and drinking a dish of coffee.

About five this evening I took leave of Mr. Goodfellow, and embarked
upon a boat manned with seven hands, which I had hired for ten dollars
to transport my self, my horse, and two servants from _Galata_ to
_Montagnia_, being the space of two leagues. When having a fair wind,
which by degrees increased, and exposed me to the fatigue of a nauseous
sea sickness, after midnight I entered the two capes, which form the
_Sinus Cianus_. In this bay is that famous fountain mentioned by _Virgil_:

                      _Hylan nautae quo fonte relictum_
    _Clamassent; cum littus, Hyla, Hyla, omne sonaret[89]._


June xviii.

By six this morning I landed safe at _Montagnia_, a small Turkish town,
which seems to have been the _Apaméa_ of the antients; _Cius_, or _Prusa
ad Arganthonium_, being now a little village, that lies farther towards
the utmost corner of the bay. Here I hire a guide and horse to carry my
self, servants, and baggage to _Prusia_, antiently _Prusa ad Olympum_,
where by God’s blessing I arrive safely about midday; and taking up my
lodgings in the great silk _kane_, I there determine to repose till to
morrow morning.

_Prusia_ is a large and fair city, situate at the foot of _Olympus
Mysenus_, a mountain of exceeding hight, and covered with perpetual
snow; which from its bowels furnishes the adjacent city with many large
and plentiful fountains, and by the same means gives nourishment to the
beautiful and flourishing trees, which intermix themselves with the
houses of the place. These are chiefly mulberries, which maintain the
industrious worm, that produces the white and lovely silk of _Prusia_;
which I here saw spun from caldrons of hot water, the several cods
yeilding at once three threads upon a wheel, turned by the person
who tends the caldron. Besides the several cold streams issuing from
_Olympus_, there flows from the same origin a plentiful sulphureous
chanel, which is collected into four hot natural baths much frequented,
and with marvelous success, as is here generally beleived. The several
fabrics of the baths are very stately, of which I shall describe that,
which is called the new one, for a specimen of the rest. It consists
first of a large oblong room paved with marble, enclosed all round with
free stone, and covered at the top with three noble cupolas leaded on
the outside. Round the inward walls of the room are _sophás_, about a
yard high, and two broad, sufficient for the undressing of three hundred
men. In the middle is a round stone cistern, overflowing with cold water,
which continually washes the pavement, and serves for other uses of the
bagnio. From this room you enter into a second moderately warm, having
on the sides oblong troughs of hot water, and in the middle a fountain
of cold; the walls, roof, and pavement being all of white polished
marble. From hence you are led by the attendants of the bagnio into a
third apartment of an orbicular figure, paved, roofed, and walled with
richer marble, that is, of more curious veins and various colours. The
pavement hereof is sunk into a round cistern about six yards diameter,
which is constantly full of hot water to the depth of about six feet,
and surrounded with a stone bench for the ease of those, who care not to
swim, or walk about the cistern. As the water constantly runs from thence
by passages at the bottom of the cistern, so is it continually supplied
by three large chanels, which from as many sides of the room yeild a
plentiful stream of water, almost scalding at the first touch.

Besides these baths there is not much remarkable in _Prusia_, except what
may be collected from the history of the place; as that it has the ruins
of a castle, built by one of the _Comneni_, as appears from the following
inscription:

          ΑΝΗΓΕΡΘΗ ΟΥΤΟϹ Ο ΠΥΡΓΟϹ
    ΠΑΡΑ ΤΟΥ ΕΥϹΕΒΕϹΤΑΤΟΥ ΗΜΩΝ ΒΑϹΙΛΕΩϹ
    ΘΕΟΔΟΡΟΥ ΚΟΜΝΗΝΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΛΑϹΚΑΡΙ
    ... ΜΗΝΙ ΟΚΤΟΒΡΙΩ

It was made the first capital of the Turkish empire by _Osmán_, or
_Ottoman_, the founder of that monarchy. And it has the monument not
only of the said _Ottoman_, but likewise of his immediate successors,
_Orchán_, _Solymán_, _Amurát_, _Bagazet_, and _Mahomet_ the first.


June xxi.

This morning about eleven a clock I set forward on my journey, in company
of a _caraván_ bound to several parts on the road to _Smyrna_. With these
I now travel three hours, and then _conáck_ with them upon a convenient
plat of grass, on the plains of _Prusia_. In the midway we cross the
river _Hippius_ runing thro these plains into the _Sinus Cianus_.


June xxii.

We travel this day to the left of the _Palus Artynia_, which being fed
from mount _Olympus_, extends itself the length of many miles, and shews
several little islands, in which are one or two compact Greek towns. At
length the lake vents itself by the chanel of the river _Rhyndacus_, at
which we arrive about six a clock this evening, and passing it at a long
wooden bridge, near the ruins of another built of stone, we take up our
_conáck_ on the opposite bank, in a village now called _Ulubat_, but
antiently _Apollonia ad Rhyndacum_.


June xxiii.

We ride eight hours, and then bait on the banks of a little river, which
runs towards those called the _Adrastian plains_. Three hours farther, at
the village of _Susegierlíck_ we cross the fair large and sandy chanel of
the _Aesépus_, and proceeding still two hours more we at length _conáck_
upon the hills.


June xxiv.

We this day pass a street called the _Irongate_, and in seven hours
arrive at the fair capacious _kane_ of _Mandahóra_, where are seven rude
porphyry pillars thought to be of _Trojan_ original. Here we repose
till towards evening, and then once more crossing the _Aesépus_, which
rising in _Ida_ continues its course under the houses of this village, we
proceed about an hour, and then lodge in a grassy plat about an hour to
the left of _Balihísar_.


June xxv.

Rising now a little after midnight we proceed seven hours, and then
resting in the woods till three in the afternoon, we pass by the usual
_conáck_ of _Kurugelchíck_, and one hour and an half from thence at
length lodge in a pleasant green spot of ground on the mountain _Temnus_.


June xxvi.

By four a clock we proceed, and having passed the _Temnus_, by seven
a clock we cross the chanel of the _Caicus_, which here is but small,
not being far distant from its fountain head. But an hour farther at
_Gelemba_ we again observe it now much enlarged, and runing by the _kane_
and houses of that place, from whence it bends its course on the left
hand to _Pergamus_. At this _kane_ we repose half an hour, and afterwards
in the plains two or three hours more; but about midday we again remount,
and in four hours cross the _Hyllus_, at a strait betwixt two hills; in
an hour after which, in the midst of a fruitful and delicious plain, we
arrive at _Thyatira_.


June xxvii.

I repose this day at _Thyatira_, which by the Turks is now called
_Akhísar_. My design in staying here was to observe the scattered remains
of architecture, which are to be seen in many places, together with
some inscriptions. The most remarkable of these is one published, but
erroneously, by Sir _George Wheler_[90]; which I copied from a stone
coffin, on which it is cut.

    ΦΑΒΙΟΣ ΖΩΣΙΜΟΣ ΚΑΤΑΣΚΕΥΑΣΑΣ ΣΟΡΟΝ ΕΘΕΤΟ ΕΠΙ ΤΟ-
    ΠΟΥ ΚΑΘΑΡΟΥ ΟΝΤΟΣ ΠΡΟ ΤΗΣ ΠΟΛΕΩΣ ΠΡΟΣ ΤΩΙ ΣΑΜ-
    ΒΑΘΕΙΩΙ[91] ΕΝ ΤΩΙ ΧΑΛΔΑΙΟΥ ΠΕΡΙΒΟΛΩΙ ΠΑΡΑ ΤΗΝ ΔΗ-
    ΜΟΣΙΑΝ ΟΔΟΝ ΕΑΥΤΩΙ ΕΦ ΩΙ[92] ΤΕΘΗ ΚΑΙ ΤΗΙ ΓΛΥΚΥ-
    ΤΑΤΗΙ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΓΥΝΑΙΚΙ ΑΥΡΗΛΙΑΙ ΠΟΝΤΙΑΝΗΙ ΜΗΔΕ-
    ΝΟΣ ΕΧΟΝΤΟΣ ΕΤΕΡΟΥ ΕΞΟΥΣΙΑΝ ΘΕΙΝΑΙ ΤΙΝΑ ΕΙΣ
    ΤΗΝ ΣΟΡΟΝ ΤΑΥΤΗΝ ΟΣ ΔΕ ΑΝ ΤΟΛΜΗΣΗ Η ΠΟΙΗΣΗ
    ΠΑΡΑ ΤΑΥΤΑ ΔΩΣΕΙ ΜΕΝ ΕΙΣ ΤΗΝ ΠΟΛΙΝ ΘΥΑΤΕΙ-
    ΡΗΝΩΝ ΑΡΓΥΡΙΟΥ ΔΗΝΑΡΙΑ ΧΕΙΛΙΑ ΠΕΝΤΑΚΟΣΙΑ ΕΙΣ
    ΔΕ ΤΟ ΙΕΡΩΤΑΤΟΝ ΤΑΜΕΙΟΝ ΔΗΝΑΡΙΑ ΔΙΣΧΙΛΙΑ ΠΕΝ-
    ΤΑΚΟΣΙΑ ΓΕΙΝΟΜΕΝΟΣ ΥΠΕΥΘΥΝΟΣ ΕΞΩΘΕΝ ΤΩΙ
    ΤΗΣ ΤΥΜΒΩΡΥΧΙΑΣ ΝΟΜΩΙ ΤΑΥΤΗΣ ΤΗΣ ΕΠΙΓΡΑΦΗΣ
    ΕΓΡΑΦΗ ΑΠΛΑ ΔΥΩ ΩΝ ΤΟ ΕΤΕΡΟΝ ΕΤΕΘΗ ΕΙΣ ΤΟ ΑΡ-
    ΧΕΙΟΝ ΕΓΕΝΕΤΟ ΕΝ ΤΗΙ ΛΑΜΠΡΟΤΑΤΗΙ ΘΥΑΤΕΙΡΗ-
    ΝΩΝ ΠΟΛΕΙ ΑΝΘΥΠΑΤΩΙ ΚΑΤΙΛΛΙΩΙ ΣΕΒΗΡΩΙ ΜΗΝΟΣ
    ΑΥΔΗΝΑΙΟΥ[93] ΤΡΙΣ ΚΑΙ ΔΕΚΑΤΗΙ ΥΠΟ ΜΗΝΟΦΙΛΟΝ
    ΙΟΥΛΙΑΝΟΥ ΔΗΜΟΣΙΟΝ[94]

About five in the evening I begin to move, having now left the _caraván_,
and purposing to travel all night towards _Magnesia_. Before it is dark I
again ford the _Hyllus_, and after that proceed over those fair plains,
in which _Scipio Asiaticus_ first won the empire of Asia for the Romans
by the defeat of king _Antiochus_[95], as we find it described by Livy.


June xxviii.

By nine a clock this morning I reach _Magnesia_, where I repose myself
the remaining part of the day with the following night. And then mounting
by five the next morning, after a refreshment of about three hours I
arrive at _Smyrna_ safe, and in good health, by three a clock in the
afternoon.

    Μόνῳ τῷ Θεῷ τῷ ὁδηγοῦντι δόξα.

[Illustration]




[Illustration]




An Account of a journey from _Smyrna_ to _Adrianople_, at the end of the
year MDCCI, and begining of MDCCII.


February x. _A. D._ 1701.

This day about nine a clock, being a very rainy morning, I began my
departure for _Adrianople_ together with Mr. Farington; being favoured
with the company of Consul Raye, Signior _Hochepied_, and nine or ten of
our nation, as far as _Hadgelar_, where we were detained this evening by
the rain.


February xi.

The rain continuing, we still remain at _Hadgelar_, in the house and
company of Signior _Laspaul_. Among the sepulchers adjoining to this
village, upon a stone pillar, are to be seen the four following imperfect
inscriptions, cut at different times.

    Β. Η. ΣΕΥ .. ΤΥΧΗΣ ... Π. ΣΕΒΗΡΕΙΝΑ ΣΕΒ.

    ΤΗΣ ΑΣΙΑΣ ΚΑΙ ΔΙΣ ΝΕΩΚΟΡΩΝ
    ΤΩΝ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΩΝ ΣΜΥΡΝΑΙΩΝ
    ΠΟΛΙΣ ΑΝΕΣΤΗΣΕΝ ΕΠΙ ΑΝΘΥΠΑΤΟΥ
    ΠΟΛΛΙΑΝΟΥ ΓΕΝΤΙΑΝΟΥ[96]

    FL. VALENTIANO
    ET FL. VALENTI
    VICTORR. S. P.

    CONSTAN ..........
    CONSTANT .........
    .. NORR. CAESS. D D
    ....... VI ....


February xii.

We set forward this morning by six a clock, and about midday journeying
to the left of mount _Sipylus_, and the fair city of _Magnesia_, we first
cross a small bridge over a river, which feeds the _Hermus_, and about
one a clock pass the _Hermus_ itself, on a bridge of an hundred and sixty
paces in length. From hence we ride half an hour on the silver banks of
that pleasant river, and thence over the plain to _Tartalécui_, where we
_conáck_.


February xiii.

We proceed on those fair plains, which lead towards _Thyatira_, and
within an hour of the town come to the _Hyllus_ or _Phrygius_, not now
passable at its usual ford; we therefore ride along its banks, and
crossing near to _Thyatira_ arrive there in six hours from our last
_conáck_. This city is seated in a pleasant and fruitful plain, well
watered and wooded, and rich in many productions, but particularly
that of excellent cottons. About the city I observed a great quantity
of misseltoe on pear and almond trees, so thick on some of them, as to
form the appearance of a true evergreen, covered with its own leaves and
branches. And the like I afterwards observed on an alder, not far from
_Sorrícui_. I here took these three Greek inscriptions, which have not,
that I remember, been observed by others; and were before omitted by me,
when at this place. The first of which is as follows.

                    ΑΓΑΘΗΙ ΤΥΧΗΙ
    ΟΙ ΠΕΡΙ ΤΟΝ ΗΡΑΚΛΕΑ ΤΩΝ ΠΡΩΤΩΝ ΓΥΜΝΑΣΙΩΝ
    ΚΑΙ ΚΑΤΑ ΤΟ ΑΡΧΑΙΟΝ ΤΟΥ ΤΡΙΤΟΥ ΝΕΑΝΙΣΚΙΟΙ[97] ΑΥΡ.
    ΘΗΣΕΑ ΝΙΚΗΦΟΡΟΥ ΘΥΑΤΕΙΡΗΝΟΝ ΝΙΚΗΣΑΝΤΑ ΕΝ-
    ΔΟΞΩΣ ΠΑΓΚΡΑΤΙΟΝ ΕΝ ΤΩΙ ΥΠΟ ΑΥΤΩΝ ΕΠΙΤΕΛΟΥ-
    ΜΕΝΩΙ ΕΠΙΝΕΙΚΩΙ ΣΕΒΗΡΕΙΩΙ ΑΓΩΝΙ ΥΠΟ ΕΠΙΣΤΑΤΗΝ
    ΑΥΡ. ΑΤΤΙΚΟΝ ΖΩΣΙΜΟΥ[98]

The second is this:

    ΛΙΚΙΝΝΙΟΝ ΡΟΥΦΙΝΟΝ ΣΥΓΚΛΗΤΙΚΟΝ ΥΙΟΝ ΛΙΚΙΝΝΙΟΥ
    ΡΟΥΦΙΝΟΥ ΟΙ ΠΕΡΙ ΤΟΝ ΗΡΑΚΛΕΑ ΠΡΩΤΩΝ ΓΥΜΝΑΣΙΩΝ
    ΝΕΑΝΙΣΚΟΙ ΚΑΙ ΚΑΤΑ ΤΟ ΑΡΧΑΙΟΝ ΤΟΥ ΤΡΙΤΟΥ.

The third thus:

    ΚΛΑΥΔΙΑ .... ΚΑΤΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕ ΤΟΝ ΒΩΜΟΝ ΜΟΣΚΙΛΙΑΝΩ
    ΤΩ ΤΕΚΝΩ ΜΝΗΜΗΣ ΕΝΕΚΕΝ ΕΑΝ ΔΕ ΤΙΣ ΜΕΤΑΘΗ ΑΥΤΟ
    ΥΠΟΚΕΙΣΕΤΑΙ ΤΩ ΦΙΣΚΩ 𐆖. Φ.

To these may be added the following military epitaph.

    C. IVL. CRE. S. CAEN. S. MILES
    XII L. VIXIT ANNOS XXXV
    MILITAVIT ANNIS XV FL CASTVS
    FRATER ET PRIMVS HERES EX TESTA
    MENTO IVSSVS POSVIT


February xiv.

We set out by eight a clock this morning, and at an hour’s distance from
the city once more cross the _Hyllus_ at the meeting of two opposite
hills, which shut in the plains of _Thyatira_. Hence we pass thro a
forest to _Gelemba_, an hour before which place occur caves with square
and regular doors cut out of solid rocks. At _Gelemba_ we lodge in the
great _kane_, by the door of which at the distance of ten or twelve
yards runs the famous _Caicus_. Here we drank a pleasant sort of Turkish
liquor, made of grapes steeped in water with flower of mustard seed.


February xv.

By break of day we set forward, and in one hour’s travel begin to mount
the foot of _Temnus_, a low but large and difficult mountain, and at
the same place cross the first branch of the _Caicus_, not far from its
fountain. We pass the rest of this day thro a stony road on the _Temnus_,
and upon the same mountain six hours from our _conáck_ lodge at the
unpleasant _Kurugelchíck_; where we were joined by two Turks, _Mustaphá_
and _Chalíl_, who accompanied us to _Adrianople_.


February xvi.

We travel still over the _Temnus_, and on our right hand discover a
large open vale on the top of the mountain, rich and well cultivated.
In somewhat more than six hours we had passed the _Temnus_, and enter
into a rich plain extended all along the backside of _Ida_, now _Cordág_;
at the foot of which, about four miles distant from the road we descry
the agreable seat of _Balihísar_. From this side of _Ida_ thro a rich
and fertile campain flows the river _Aesépus_, now called _Simow_ by the
Turks, which we cross by an old bridge at the village of _Mandahóra_, and
there take our _conáck_ in a large and convenient _kane_; which is more
to be noted for its seven large pillars of course porphyry, now employed
to support the roof of this barbarous edifice, but might possibly once
stand in some fabric of antient _Troy_, from whence _Mandahóra_ is
distant about ten hours.


February xvii.

By eight a clock we set forward from _Mandahóra_, leaving the _Aesépus_
to surround those hills on our right hand, whilst we proceed a shorter
way, over small hills and dales, to meet it again in six hours and a half
at _Susegierlíck_, where we were entertained in the public _kane_ with
excellent pike taken in that river.


February xviii.

We begin to bend our course more directly towards the _Hellespont_,
and in order thereto proceed over a tract of gentle mountains, which
_Homer_ calls πόδα νείατον Ἴδης[99]; now frequented with wild beasts,
but pleasant for the prospect they afford us on our right hand, whilst
we pursue with our eye the whole course of the _Aesépus_ almost as far
as _Mihalíck_, where it enters the sea. In three hours we pass by an old
village and adjoining castle called _Minyás_, which name it likewise
lends to the neighbouring plain and lake; the former of which I take to
have been antiently called the plains of _Zelia_, and the latter the
λίμνη Δασκυλίτις[100]. Not far from hence flows a river by the modern
name of _Mulvetelée_, passing into the adjoining lake; after which are
small hills and pleasant villages, till in five hours we descend into
the plains of _Zelia_, which are pleasant, fertile, and well cultivated.
Here we pass thro large fields of wallnut trees, which bring us in five
hours and a half to the banks of a fair and broad river; which I take
to be the _Tarsius_ of the antients, and by the Turks is now vulgarly
called _Tarza_. We were here obliged to ferry over with our horses three
together in a boat, the stream being not securely fordable. In one hour
and half from thence, thro a level and verdant campain to the left of the
above mentioned lake, we come to _Humumlée_, and there _conáck_. The lake
we leisurely viewed from our _conáck_, and could compute it to be about
thirty miles in circumference, being always full of water, and stored
with plenty of fish, among which it then furnished us with delicious
pikes. We were here informed, that the river, we lately passed, empties
it self into this lake, from whence by a new chanel it takes its course
to _Mihalíck_, where together with the _Aesépus_ it soon after falls into
the sea. And directly beyond this lake we then beheld the fair exalted
hills of _Cyzicus_, and the _Peninsula Cyzicena_.


February xix.

By six this morning we leave _Humumlée_, where we had been lodged not
inconveniently in a farmer’s house, and riding thro a continued campain
begin to view the snowy head of _Ida_. But in some time we again
lose sight of it, and in five hours from our setting out approach to
_Bozacgée_, seated in the _Adrastian_ plains[101]; and at the same place
to a large and fair river, by the Turks named _Bocléw_[102], which we
leave on our left hand, till in two hours we cross it by a dangerous
wooden bridge near _Sorrícui_[103], and there _conáck_.


February xx.

By six we leave _Sorrícui_, and proceed a little way, where a fair is
held at _St. Georgetide_, which continues for the space of ten days, and
is much frequented. We then mount a high and steep hill, which bears a
stately and extended wood of oak; the lower shrubs of which produce a
quantity of galls, and at the roots of these the ground is overspread
with an excellent and well scented sage. On the top of this hill in three
hours we have a near prospect of the sea, and isle of _Marmora_, with
one side of the _Peninsula_ of _Cyzicus_. By the fifth hour we begin to
descend on the other side into a pleasant and green plain, and by the
seventh arrive at _Dimotico_, a market town, vulgarly so called from the
corruption, as I suppose, of the antient _Didymotichos_. At this place
occurs a moderate river with a wooden bridge; and an hour beyond the
town a large one with a fair bridge of stone, built by the munificence
of _Sultan Mahomet_ the fourth. Here are to be observed the marks of a
royal way, denoted by two equal and regular barrows on each side, by
which lies the _Grand Signior’s_ road to the wars. Hitherto our way had
all along surrounded mount _Ida_, which often favoured us with the sight
of its hoary head, and many rivers flowing from its watry bowels. We had
now an hour farther to reach our _conáck_ at _Pismetlée_; but losing our
way, we were conducted by a cowherd (who was cudgel’d into this civility
by _Mustaphá bey_) to a small pleasant village an hour farther in our
journey, where being obliged to force our reception, we were thereupon
lodged in the _mosque_ of the place. This will appear an instance very
singular in Turkey, and was looked upon as an abomination by the _imám_
of the parish; who could not enter that place of his worship on the
following morning, without saluting us three times with _Stifer Alláh_,
that is, _God forbid_.


February xxi.

In an hard road betwixt barren hills we travel this day towards
_Jerdáck_, a village which is the _scale_ for passing the _Hellespont_,
seated within half an hour of the antient _Lampsacus_. This road led us
within four hours to the shore of the _Propontis_, along which we proceed
four hours farther to our _conáck_, where the sea contracts it self into
that strait chanel, betwixt _Lampsacus_ and _Callipolis_. Here we find
a large _kane_, in which are about twelve antient marble pillars, each
of one fair intire stone, some round, others chanel’d, and of various
orders; all which I conclude to have been undoubted reliques of the
antient _Lampsacus_. In the yard of the _mosque_ at _Jerdáck_ I took the
two following Greek inscriptions

    ΑΓΑΘΗ ΤΥΧΗ
    ΤΙ. ΚΛΑΥΔΙΟΝ ΦΛΩΡΟΝ ΠΥΚΤΗΝ ΝΕΙΚΗΣΑΝΤΑ ΕΝΔΟΞΩΣ
    ΠΑΙΔΩΝ ΑΓΩΝΑ ΤΩΝ ΜΕΓΑΛΩΝ ΤΥΧΕΙΩΝ ΑΓΩΝΟΘΕΤΟΥΝ-
    ΤΟΣ Γ. ΙΟΥΛ. ΕΛΕΩΝΕΩΣ ΥΠΟ ΠΑΙΔΟΤΡΙΒΗΝ ΚΛΑΥΔ.

    ΚΥΡΟΣ ΑΠΟΛΛΩΝΙΟΥ ΤΗΝ ΤΑΦΗΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΝ ΕΝΑΓΙΣΜΟΝ
    ΤΩ ΠΑΤΡΙ ΑΠΟΛΛΩΝΙΩ ΑΠΟΛΛΩΝΙΟΥ


February xxii.

By nine this morning we transport ourselves and horses by boat from
_Jerdáck_ to _Gallipoli_, and in three quarters of an hour arrive by
God’s blessing on the European shore; where we bid a joyful farewel
to that of Asia, after a severe sea sickness, which I endured in the
passage. At which time three years and three months had passed, since my
first arrival at _Smyrna_.

_Callipolis_, now called _Gallipoli_, was taken by the Turks in the reign
of _Orchán_, and _anno Hegirae_ 760. It is now a city considerably large,
but thinly peopled, and decayed in commerce; tho it still plentifully
enjoys that of cottons and aniseed. It stands upon a blunt point of land,
betwixt two small open bays, of which that to the north is exceeding
pleasant, and has on its green banks two fair Turkish sepulchers, the
newer and more magnificent being that of _Sinán pashá_. Adjoining is a
_kane_ of very gentile fashion, with a _mosque_, and other instances
of charity. The southern bay has the walls of the antient arsenal, for
the lodging of stores and galleys, which formerly wintered in this
place. Besides which the vast rocks, which lie before the town, are
very remarkable; being a strange but natural mixture of sand, pebbles,
and cockleshells, of which materials all the houses of the town are
built. Here I saw a stone figure of our _Savior’s_ baptism in the river
_Jordan_, with another of the _B. Virgin_, carved contrary to the
practice of the Greek church in _basso relievo_.


February xxiii.

We remain at _Gallipoli_ this and the following day, expecting Mr.
Farington’s _caraván_. The breadth of the _Hellespont_ is here much
inlarged, which at _Lampsacus_, according to _Xenophon_, was but fifteen
furlongs[104].


February xxv.

We set forward from _Gallipoli_ in a smooth and pleasant road, which
by degrees ascending begins quickly to show us the narrow _isthmus_ of
the _Chersonésus_, with the _Propontis_ on one side, and the gulph of
_Cardia_, or _Sinus Melas_, on the other, the extreme neck of land being
scarce three miles broad. Our road now inclines to the left hand, and so
brings us round the blunt end of the gulph, into which flows the fair
river _Melas_, which about the fourth hour from _Gallipoli_ we cross
at a regular and well built stone bridge. Hence we have a stony and
mountainous way to _Allalmalée_, a Christian village, where we _conáck_.
Before bed time we had here the company of the poor ignorant παπᾶς, who
among other things told us, that he lately gave the bishop of _Heracléa_
seventy dollars to ordain his son a priest.


February xxvi.

We depart from _Allalmalée_, and in two hours and a half arrive at
_Malgara_, where I observed a Turkish drink called _bozók_, being a
whitish thick beer made of millet seed. This is a large and pleasant
town, abounding in the production of honey, and bears the name of a lady,
who redeemed its security from plunder for a vast sum of money, from the
first Turkish conqueror. It is now reserved as a place of banishment
for the prime ministers of the empire. We proceed homeward till about
the sixth hour of this day’s journey, when having lost my watch the
preceding evening, we searched the company upon some suspicion we had
entertained of a _catergée_, who yesterday joined us; and accordingly
we find it concealed in the corner of his breeches. In ten hours we
arrive at _Derrícui_ a small Christian village, and there _conáck_. I
must not omit, that this day we discovered to the left the mountains of
_Samothrace_, the course of the _Hebrus_, and more forward the snowy top
of _Rodope_.


February xxvii.

In two hours from our _conáck_ we arrive at _Uzunkuprée_, a town which
has its name from the fair adjoining bridge of an hundred and sixty six
arches, and by _Saidino_ is called _Ponte d’Erchiene_[105]. We were
the full space of fifteen minutes in passing this bridge, and towards
the further end, which is the most conspicuous part, we observed ten
or twelve heads carved on the battlements, that enclose the bridge, in
memory, as it is said, of so many chief workmen strangled by _Sultan
Morát_ the first (who founded it) for building it so narrow, as not to
admit of two carts at once. In two hours farther we arrive at the sandy
and delicious banks of _Hebrus_, just opposite to the city and castle of
_Dimotico_, where _Sultan Morát_ began to seat the palace of his emperial
residence. From hence we pass along the bank of that slow, but then
plentiful river[106], and after two hours and a half take up our lodgings
in a cold inconvenient hovel at _Elchilée_.


February xxviii.

By five this morning we proceed in a level sandy road on the banks of
the _Hebrus_, where we observe a vast quantity of wild fowl, and by nine
arrive at the palace of my Lord Paget in _Adrianople_, being filled with
admiration at the beauty of the river, campain, and prospect of so fair a
city.

_Adrianople_ is seated on the _Hebrus_, at the place where it receives the
_Tunsa_ and the _Harda_. It is a fair and compact city, about five miles
in circumference, rising gently on the side of a small hill from the
banks of the _Hebrus_ and _Tunsa_[107]. What is there remarkable, may be
reduced to the _seraglio_, _mosques_, and _sharshées_. The _seraglio_ is
built in a flat and verdant plain, at the foot of the city betwixt the
_Hebrus_ and _Tunsa_, but more immediately upon the banks of the latter.
It is surrounded almost on all sides with a thick grove of beech and
elm, which within form the resemblance of a park, and outwardly yeild
a grateful prospect, in regard that the countrey about it is almost
wholly naked of wood. A square wall encloses the fabric, which is truly
mean, and of a confused intricate figure; but, as is commonly said,
well contrived for convenience. The matter is plain free stone, and the
covering of lead. Nothing can be more grateful to the eye, than the sight
of this level verdant situation; and yet in regard of its lowness, and
too near approach to the rivers, nothing more unwholesome. It seems to
stand in the very same place, where _Constantine_ gave that famous defeat
to _Licinnius_[108].

The _mosques_ observable in this place are those called _Eskijamí_,
the _Three Sheríffs_, _Sultan Bajazet_, and _Sultan Selím_. The first
of these is so called from its antiquity, which _Morát_ the first
here established, and converted to that profane use from a Christian
church, of which it still retains the intire figure. The second is to
be observed for the abundance of porphyry, which appears in the fabric,
and the various architecture of the four _minarées_, together with
many serpentine pillars, which support the porticos of the area. The
third likewise has many serpentine pillars round the area, and those
of interrupted veins and distinct materials, which seem to persuade
one, that they are of a cast substance. But the greatest beauty of this
city, and as some think of the whole empire, is the _mosque_ of _Sultan
Selím_ the second, built by him out of materials brought chiefly from
the ruins of _Famagusta_, in the island of _Cyprus_. Yet in regard that
the area is not square, nor supported with so rich or correspondent
pillars, excepting four that adorn the front, I esteem it inferior to
the two noble _mosques_ of _Solymán_ and _Achmét_ at _Constantinople_.
Otherwise it is a fair structure, built with great conformity of its
several parts, and like a theatre consisting of one stately room ending
upwards in a cupola. It is adorned with four regular and beautiful
_minarées_, each of which has two hundred forty four stairs leading into
the uppermost balcony. For in each of them are three balconies, that
imitate the capitals of pillars, between which the whole body of the
column is regularly chanel’d. One of these is famous for having three
staircases winding one within another, of which one opens into the three
balconies, another into the two highest, and the third only into the last
of all. From thence we once took the opportunity of viewing the several
parts and precincts of the city, the plat of the _seraglio_, the course
of the rivers, and the face of the countrey below, with the busy care of
the several mortals, wandering like so many ants on that spot of earth
then subject to our eye. Here I could not but pleasantly recollect those
_templa serena_ of _Lucretius_, _L._ i. ℣. 8.

    _Despicere unde queas alios, passimque videre_
    _Errare, atque viam palantes quaerere vitae._

Adjoining to _Sultan Bajazet_ I was shewn a madhouse or bedlam, which
is a noble building of a round figure, covered with a regular cupola,
and having a large area in the middle, and therein a cistern of water;
but conveniently divided all round into six chambers made archwise, and
opening on one side into the area. Here were kept three madmen, all
furnished with clean mats, and tied close down to the pavement by an
iron chain fastned about their neck for greater security.

The _sharshées_ are two long and fair porticos, walled with brick or
stone on each side, and securely arched over head, so as to resist fire.
The shorter of these adjoins to _Sultan Selím_, and is appropriated
to the shoemakers: but the other, being about four hundred paces long
and six broad, is filled with shops of various trades; all which are
shallow niches in the wall of equal hight and breadth, and in general
so regularly contrived, that the whole represents a beautiful and rich
gallery.

The whole way from _Gallipoli_ to this place lies thro a campain rich and
fertile, abounding with villages, and those almost all Christian. However
it wants the lovely fountains, frequent woods, and pretious shrubs of
Asia.


March iv.

Sir Robert Sutton, successor to my Lord Paget in his embassy to this
port, who arrived at _Adrianople_ about Christmas last, had now his
audience of the grand _vizír_. My Lord Paget, with the retinue of his own
family, and the English merchants now resident in this place, repaired
to the palace of his successor about twelve a clock. At the same time
came thither from the _vizír_, the _chiaush bashá_, with an horse richly
furnished for Sir Robert, and about thirty others for the use of his
retinue. From hence the two ambassadors conducted by the _chiaush bashá_,
and attended by a large retinue of the English nation, proceeded to the
palace of the _vizír_. Upon their arrival into the room of audience, the
_vizír_ soon entered, supported by his _kayá_ and the _reis effendi_,
and congratulated with acclamations from his whole attendance. He seated
himself in a corner of the _sophá_, and the ambassadors sat before him on
two stools. After the old ambassador had presented his successor, _Mauro
Cordato_, who is master of the ceremonies, and _dragoman_ to the _Ottoman
Port_, gave and returned the ordinary forms. Then Sir Robert delivered
his Majesty’s letter to the _vizír_, after which both ambassadors were
treated with coffee, sherbet, and incense, and the whole ceremony at
length concluded with the distribution of about twenty four _caftans_.
The _vizír_ is about sixty years of age, of short stature, and a meek
serene countenance; tho at this time somewhat moved with concern for the
loss of his only son of two years of age. At this ceremony he appeared in
the _selimée_ turbant, which is a cap of state, and was conceived to do
an honour to the audience. It resembles the form of a sugar loaf, only
indented at the bottom on four sides, and bound obliquely with a gold
ribban.


March x.

Sir Robert Sutton had his audience of the _Grand Signior_ at the
_seraglio_ of this place, whither he rode about seven a clock on a horse
of state, conducted as before by the _chiaush bashá_, and attended by
all the gentlemen of the English nation. At these audiences it is the
custom of the Turks to show somewhat of the discipline of their soldiery,
together with the process of their justice at the _diván_. And therefore
so soon as his Excellency entered at the first gate of the _seraglio_,
into a large and green court, some companies of the _janisaries_, ranged
on the opposite side, ran with a great but orderly agility, to seize
several dishes of their broth, placed at equal distances on the area
of the court; after which they were remanded by the _churbegées_, who
ran among the ranks, and instead of words of command ordered them by
a certain gentle hissing into their respective stations. During this
entertainment his Excellency advanced towards the _diván_, which is an
oblong ground room, opening on the front into a gallery, by which only it
is separated from the court above mentioned. It is surrounded on three
sides with benches, covered with embroidered silk, and the floor is laid
with carpets; otherwise it has no ornaments, nor embellishments of the
walls. On the middle of the principal bench, where it faces the door, sat
the grand _vizír_, having one crimson cushion under him, and another to
support his feet, by which only he is distinguished from other ministers
of the _diván_. On his right hand upon the same bench sat the _caimekám_,
and _Abdollá pashá_ son of the late _Mustaphá Kioprili_; but on his left
hand the two _cadileskérs_, the one for Europe, and the other for Asia.
The two side benches were took up on the right hand by the _nishangeé
bashá_, and on the left by the _tefterdár_. Sitting in this order, and
maintaining a profound silence, they dispatched several causes of _meum_
and _tuum_, in the sight of the ambassador and his retinue; in which
there was no other process, than the reading several succinct cases to
the _vizír_, together with the depositions of the witnesses, upon which
he pronounced his verdict, and the parties were immediately dismissed.
But in these, and other affairs of the like kind, the _reis effendi_ and
_teskergée bashá_ also assist; the former of which acts as solicitor
and secretary to the _diván_, and the latter is the gentleman usher,
who carries all messages and papers betwixt the _Grand Signior_ and the
_vizír_. In the mean time the _Grand Signior_, tho he is never personally
present in the _diván_, yet he is at his pleasure a witness and overseer
of all that passes there, by means of a lattice window, which looks out
of his apartments just over the seat of the _vizír_. These ceremonies
ended, there were brought in divers tables and placed before the _vizír_,
the _caimekám_, the _nishangée_, and the _tefterdár_; all which being
presently furnished with various Turkish dishes, the ambassador sat down
to eat with the _vizír_, and several gentlemen of the English nation with
the other ministers. After this repast (the _vizír_ having first demanded
leave for an audience) the ambassador and all the rest of the English
gentlemen retired into a distant part of the gallery, which fronts the
chamber of the _diván_, and other lodgings of the _seraglio_, where they
were all vested, and then sat down in order till the _diván_ arose, and
the several ministers proceeded to the apartments of the _Grand Signior_,
the latter preceding, and the _vizír_ closing the procession. Soon after
his Excellency was called to take his audience, to which himself, and
four gentlemen, who were permitted to follow him, were conducted by two
_capigées_, who led them on each hand, in a rude and hasty manner. By
these they were thus carried from the outward gallery into a square paved
court, and from thence into a railed entry, that landed them immediately
in a ground room, which was the presence chamber of the _Grand Signior_.
It was a small room, of a square figure, lined on the sides and floor
with crimson silk, and that embellished with an high and thick embroidery
of golden branches. In one corner was erected an high _sophá_ about
two yards square, adorned with four rich cushions, and an answerable
_minderá_, all of which were in a manner intirely covered with embroidery
of pearl. On this sat the _Grand Signior_, regarding the ambassador
in an oblique posture, and sinking so deep in the _minderá_, that his
thighs and legs were not to be distinguished. The other ornaments of
the room were two windows, each furnished with two cushions, answerable
to those of the _sophá_; and more remarkable than all the rest, a
royal chimney cloth, embroidered like the covering of the floor and
walls, but enriched beyond these with various large jewels set in the
corners of the work, such as pearls, diamonds, rubies, emeralds and the
like. The ambassador stood about three yards distance from the _Grand
Signior_, where he delivered himself to _Mauro Cordato_ in Italian, and
he interpreted his credentials immediately to the _Sultan_. But his
Majesty’s letter being handed to _Mauro Cordato_ by his Excellency, it
was by him delivered to the _nishangée_, by him to _Abdollá pashá_, and
by him to the _vizír_, who laid it before the _Grand Signior’s_ feet.
Upon this the _Sultan_ directed himself to the _vizír_ in these words:
“We esteem the King of England as our freind. On our part, all due regard
shall be had to the sacred capitulations made with him; and accordingly
be it your care to see them maintained.” This said, the ambassador was
dismissed the audience room, with the four gentlemen, who only were
permitted to attend the ceremony. Upon which all the English immediately
mounted at the outward gate of the _seraglio_, and there stood in rank
and order to see the _janisaries_ dismissed; which is done in a regular
but hasty manner, and seems to resemble the _decursio_ of the Roman
army. After this the several Ministers of the _diván_, begining with the
least, and ending with the _vizír_, made a pompous procession on horses
of state, adorned with broad guilded bridles, and housing of the French
fashion, wrought with nothing but entire thread of gold. After these
followed his Excellency on an horse and furniture of the same quality,
and so returned with the attendance of several _chiaushes_, and all those
of the English nation, to his own palace.

The habit of the several ministers of the _diván_ is exactly of the
same form with the _caftans_, which they ordinarily present; but the
matter is either silk, or fine grogran, fur’d with sable. Their turbant
is that called the _mugevezée_; but that of the _Grand Signior_ is the
same with the common _agás_, only distinguished by three small, but fine
and curious black feathers, with waves of ash colour, being the outmost
feathers on the wing of the _arguron_, a rare Muscovian bird. The present
made by the ambassador to the _Grand Signior_ consisted of sixty pieces
of different materials, as cloth, silk, sattin, velvet, and the like, all
of them at the charge of the company.


March xviii.

My Lord Paget had this day his audience of leave of the grand _vizír_,
where, besides the ordinary forms and ceremonies of coffee, sherbet,
incense, and _caftans_, the letters of the _vizír_ and _Sultan_ were
brought in by the _reis effendi_; and being by him reverently kissed
and delivered to the _vizír_, were by the _vizír_ kissed in the same
manner, and delivered to the ambassador, by whom they were kissed again,
and committed to Mr. Paget, who bore them respectfully on his two hands
during the whole procession to his Excellency’s palace. The _Sultan’s_
letter was enclosed in a cover of cloth of gold, about a foot broad, and
a yard long, being wrote on fine Persian paper made of silk.


March xix.

His Excellency had audience of leave of the _mufti_, a reverend person
about seventy years of age, somewhat corpulent, of an insolent and
proud aspect, well learned in the Turkish law and polity, and formerly
_hogia_ to the present _Sultan_. He is extremely covetous, and at the
same time prodigiously rich, having hoarded, as it is said, one great
part of the current gold of the empire, and likewise purchased many vast
and extensive possessions about _Erzerum_ and _Trebisond_, which is his
native countrey.


March xx.

His Excellency had audience of leave of the _caimekám_, a courteous,
affable, and obliging person, of no great estate or character, except
that his wife is sister to the _Sultan_. The same day, being Friday, I
saw the _Grand Signior_ riding from his palace to the _mosque_, where he
paid his public devotion. He was preceded by several _chiaushes_, then by
six led horses, and then by several _solácks_, habited in short vests,
and adorned with high caps of gilt silver. On each side of his horse
walked three _churbegées_, bearing on their heads so many beautiful white
ostrich feathers; and behind him followed on stately horses his _selictár
agá_, and _kyslér agá_. He is of a low stature, but broad and corpulent;
has a short neck, a large squat yellow fleshy face, a flat nose, a low
forehead, with cheeks remarkably long and squabby. In his coins he
stiles himself, _The mighty Sultan of the earth and sea, a Sultan son of
a Sultan, Sultan Mustafá Han, son of emperor Mahomet_.


March xxi.

His Excellency had audience of leave of the _nakéib effendi_, who is the
son of the _mufti_, and by patent the designed successor of his father.
He is about thirty years of age, of good parts and behaviour, naturally
arrogant, but made shew on this occasion of an affected courtesy.


March xxiv.

I this day saw the heads of five robbers brought from _Natolia_, and laid
at the gate of the _seraglio_, where by custom they are to remain three
suns. They are only the skins of so many criminals heads stuffed with
straw.


April ii. _A. D._ 1702.

His Excellency, my Lord Paget, now drawing near to his departure was this
day invited to the grand _vizír’s_, where among many singular tokens of
that esteem, which this court truely bears to his person and character,
he received a splendid feast, together with the present of a sable
vest to the value of two purses; as also a noble horse, and sumptuous
furniture, computed at three more.


April iii.

I saw the extravagant devotion of an enthusiastic sect of Turks which
they publicly acted in the manner following. After their ordinary midday
_namáz_ at a little _mosque_ of this city, they repaired to an adjoining
chapel, where were seated many Turks of different quality, who came
thither as spectators only, and to entertain their curiosity. These
several devotées, who were to act their part, were decently ranked in
circular seats, till the prior of their order entered, on which they
all rose to reverence him. He immediately seated himself in the corner
of the room, and with the whole fraternity struck up a religious hymn,
which they carried on in a decent, solemn, and harmonious manner. This
done, they rose upon their feet, to the number of about sixty persons,
and form’d themselves into a close ring, each one holding his hands on
the breast and neck of his foreman. In this posture they advanced round,
repeating with a deep and forcible voice, _Hú hú_; at the same time
stamping violently on the ground, and with great force throwing their
heads towards the center of the ring. Soon after two step’d within the
circle, and turn’d swiftly upon their heel; upon which the whole company
quickened their motion, and grew into a warmth and fury, which is rather
to be admired, than expressed in words. For two hours and an half they
acted a continual fury, sometimes huging one another in a cluster, at
other times kneeling in a confused company, and then runing round in a
circle without cessation[109], throwing about their hands, tossing their
heads, and repeating in hidious cries, _Hú héy_, _Alláh hulláh_, _Allá
hú_, or, _Allá héy_. As they grew hoarser and weaker, both their sound
and action exactly resembled the barking and snarling of dogs[110]; till
at length being covered with sweat, and worked up to the last pitch of
extasy, they concluded with certain versicles, which they repeated from
the mouth of the prior, and so dismissed us[111].


April iv.

My Lord Paget paid his last visit this morning to the _vizír kayá_, who
presented him with a gentile horse and furniture. In the afternoon he
likewise took his last leave of the _reis effendi_, who honoured him with
the like present, and dismissed him with expressions, that witnessed the
sincere and cordial respect he bore him. I shall conclude this narrative
with observing only, that about _Adrianople_ grows an excellent red wine,
which I take to be that mentioned by _Hesiod_ in his _Oper et Dies_, _L._
ii. ℣. 107, where he says: Πετραίη τε σκίη, καὶ Βίβλινος οἶνος.

[Illustration]




[Illustration]




An Account of a journey from _Adrianople_, thro _Bulgaria_, _Walachia_,
_Transylvania_, _Hungary_, _Germany_, _Flanders_, _Holland_, and thence
to _England_, in the years MDCCII and MDCCIII.


April viii. _A. D._ 1702.

This day about ten a clock my Lord Paget set out from _Adrianople_, and
began his journey homeward with a splendid equipage. First proceeded two
_chiaushes_, and six _janisaries_; then the three flags of the _arms of
England_, the _union_, and _St. George_, after these the gentlemen of
the horse, with thirteen led horses; next the _agá_, appointed by the
government to conduct his Excellency; who was followed by four coaches,
each drawn by six horses, in the last of which rode his Excellency
himself, and in the first some gentlemen, who accompanied him in this
journey; namely, Count _Gylderstope_ of Sweden, Mr. George Montague,
nephew to my Lord Hallifax, and his tutor Mr. _Gangain_.

For conveniency of carriage, and accommodations of the journey, his
Excellency was furnished with seventy one waggons, which were to attend
him to the extreme bounds of the Turkish empire, at the sole charge of
the Port. Tho this was but the least mark of esteem, which he received
from thence; as it may be reasonably computed, that they presented him
to the value of near twenty purses of money, since his last arrival at
_Adrianople_, in the following particulars. For the fitting up of his
palace in that city, five hundred dollars: for the cushions and other
furniture of two _sophá_ rooms, six hundred: for a stately horse from
the grand _vizír_, five hundred: for the rich furniture of the same, a
thousand: for a sable vest at the same time, a thousand: for an horse
and furniture from the _vizír kayá_, five hundred: for the like from the
_reis effendi_, five hundred: for fifteen mules from the government, at
about fifty dollars each, seven hundred and fifty: for seventy two horses
from the same, at thirty dollars each, two thousand one hundred and
sixty: and lastly for one hundred days _tain_, or _allowance_, from the
Port, at the rate of fifty dollars a day, making five thousand.

This day his Excellency and his retinue travel slowly about the space of
fifteen miles, and about three a clock arrive at a small village called
_Senigée_, where we find the waggons disposed in their several stations,
the apartments of each company alloted, and three tents (tho not pitched
this evening) ready for the service of his Excellency; which I here
mention once for all, as being the constant method of each following
_conáck_.


April ix.

From _Senigée_ we proceed this morning in three hours to _Cokúck
Derocut_, and from thence in the like time to _Boiák Dervent_, where we
find his Excellency’s tents orderly and conveniently placed, and all
things regularly disposed for this night’s lodging. Here we saw an old
Bulgar Christian, named _Staón_, aged one hundred and twenty years[112];
who told us, that he had all his life time been subject to great and
continual sickness, and had three times changed his teeth, once in his
infancy, and twice in his old age. They were now for the most part
intire, his senses of hearing and tasting very lively, and his sight but
little decayed; his beard and his eyebrows lately became perfectly black,
but the hair of his head milk white, and the skin of his breast like the
bark of an old weather beaten beech.


April x.

We travel this day from _Dervent_ to _Jenícui_, having hitherto found
the country to consist of a level campain, and a soil that promised
fertility, were it more happily furnished with inhabitants, water, and
wood.


April xi.

We now proceed from _Jenícui_ to _Pashácui_, so called from the residence
of _Achmét Gerai Sultan_, who is a Tartar prince, happily banished from
his own barbarous country to this fair and delightful village, situated
in a verdant plain, that is better furnished with wood, than the campain
we had lately passed; and watered with a small river, which seems to
rise from the bowels of mount _Haemus_, and bend its course towards the
_Tunsa_.


April xii.

From _Pashácui_ we arrive at _Comorwa_, a rich well cultivated village,
and plentifully supplied both with wood and water. In our way hitherto
from _Adrianople_ we sometimes observed drummers, placed in the nature of
watchmen, to give notice of the security of the road.


April xiii.

From _Comorwa_ we proceed in two hours and a half to _Dobral_, leaving in
view to the right hand a large Turkish town called _Cornibat_, famous for
dying, and preparing the fine purple and yellow leather of this country,
which it vends in great quantities. From _Dobral_ we begin to ascend
the foot of _Haemus_, where the way winds so artificially, as to take
away the difficulty of ascent. Here crossing a rapid river, which forms
its chanel in the body of the mountain, and thro a variety of diverting
shades and clifts, we arrive at length at an open plain on the top of the
hill, and therein at a true country paradise of Bulgar Christians called
_Challikcavák_[113]; where a new church has been lately obtained for the
inhabitants, by the interest of Count _Oetingh_, embassador extraordinary
from his Imperial Majesty. Here the damsels of the parish entertained
us this evening with a dance, which tho performed with no great art or
variety, yet had a certain plainness and simplicity, which was truly
grateful. The women here wear as ornaments, a sort of cravat consisting
of various silver coins, and large bossy silver bracelets; who dismissed
us the next morning with corn strewed in our way.


April xiv.

On the top of the hill we proceed for some time in a level road, thro
a stately grove of oaks; after which the way begins to descend, and
being shortened by the pleasure of the shady scene on each side, leads
unexpectedly into the adjoining plain. In this we travel about an hour,
near the foot of the delightful _Haemus_, and then find our quarters
ready to receive us at a Christian village, called _Trágoe_. And indeed
all the villages, which we had hitherto passed from _Adrianople_, were
intirely inhabited by Christians, who by nation are Bulgarians, but by
their faith of the Greek communion.


April xv.

We still continue our journey at the foot of the mountain, till in
an hour’s time we arrive at _Eskí Stambol_; from whence the way, now
leaving _Haemus_ at our backs, carries us in four hours more to the first
Turkish village, which had occurred in our progress, called _Boklar_.
Mount _Haemus_ being the limit, that divides _Thracia_ from _Bulgaria_,
or _Moesia Inferior_ of the antients, we made this day’s journey in
the latter; which hereabouts appears as pleasant, as a just mixture of
hills and vales, woods and lawns, arable and pasture ground can make
it. The above mentioned _Eskí Stambol_ is a name given by the Turks
to the remains of an ancient city (possibly the _Oescus Triballorum_)
which at the foot of _Haemus_ shews the intire tract of two walls; the
inward square, and of about a mile in circumference; the outward almost
circular, and containing the compass of five miles. But besides these it
has no reliques of carved work, or any inscription, that may give light
to the true name or history of the place. In one corner only of the
inward wall are several crosses, and an image of the Παναγία, or _Virgin
Mother_, barbarously cut, with two or three rude lines of modern Greek
characters, in which nothing but the word Βασηλίσαν, or _Queen_, was
now legible, and that corruptly written, as it is here copied. By the
abovementioned walls runs a small river from the _Haemus_, now called by
the Italians _Monte Argentato_, and by the Turks _Batkán_.


April xvi.

Over a country, which is truly rich, as well as pleasant, and curiously
varied by easy ascents and descents, we proceed in five hours from
_Trágoe_ to _Arnoútcui_; a village whose inhabitants are of the Greek
communion, tho its name implies them to be of Albanian original.


April xvii.

Thro a pleasant tract of country, containing a grateful variety of arable
ground, pasture, and woods, we arrive in seven hours at _Uzungée Alon_.
By the way we passed several villages, as likewise a large market town,
wherein are seven _mosques_, and a palace of the _pashá_ of _Nicopoli_,
which goes by the name of _Rásgrad_. The _cadí_ of this place, with an
_alaí chiaush_, and other officers, came an hour out of town to meet his
Excellency.


April xviii.

Thro a like country, only a little more woody, we continue our journey
to _Uppéer_. And from thence the day following, where we first begin to
see the _Danube_, we proceed thro a rich, pleasant, and well cultivated
country, till about twelve a clock we arrive at _Tutracán_, on the banks
of the river.


April xx.

We stay at this place, employed in the care of transporting his
Excellency’s equipage on the other side of the water; and in the mean
time cannot but reflect with pleasure on the agreable tract of ground,
which for five days we had passed thro in _Moesia Inferior_. A country,
which (however decried by Ovid, and disparaged by our modern geographers)
for the richness of its soil, variety of rising and falling ground,
elegancy of prospect, and a competent provision of wood and water, is
perhaps not to be paralleled by any other spot in the universe. But tho
the whole tract of this country, which descends gradually from the foot
of the _Haemus_ to the banks of the _Danube_, is rich both in arable and
pasture ground; yet the inhabitants seem excessive poor, and are defended
from the injuries of the weather by houses very meanly built.


April xxi.

His Excellency and his retinue this day pass the _Danube_, between
_Tutracán_ and the mouth of the _Argisch_, about eight in the morning,
at a passage about a mile broad. Upon landing, his Excellency was
complimented from the Prince of _Valachia_ by his cousin german Count
_Tomáso Cantacuzéno_, and was received by a guard of fifty men, and two
coaches of six. In the finer of these his Excellency rode about a mile
into _Valachia_, along the banks of the _Argisch_, and then alighting was
entertained under three rich tents, sent likewise by the Prince for his
reception.


April xxii.

His Excellency continued his journey about six hours thro the
_Valachian_, a country which on this side is exactly level, and
luxuriantly rich, but desolate for want of culture and inhabitants. In
the road we meet with wooden crosses, erected in many places to excite
the devotion of Christian travelers; as also a convent of monks about two
hours short of our _conáck_, near which the _Argisch_ receives the chanel
of the _Dembowitza_. At length we arrive at a miserable collection of
cottages, scarce deserving the name of a village, but blessed with the
convenience of a delicious and healthy water; where we find the tents
both of the Prince and his Excellency ready pitched for his entertainment
this evening. We were conducted hither by Count _Tomáso_, who undertook
the care of the public _tain_ to be furnished for his Excellency.


April xxiii.

We proceed four hours thro a pleasant wood, enriched with _lilia
convallium_, and other flowers; and at length pitch our tents at
_Popest_, which in the _Valachian_ language signifies the same as
_Priest-town_. Here about five in the evening his Excellency received an
express by Baron _Minsheim_ from Count _Rabutin_, with the most unhappy
news of the death of his Britannic Majesty, on the eighth past.


April xxiv.

About seven this morning his Excellency set forward, and prepared for his
entrance into _Bucurest_, which is distant about an hour and half from
_Popest_. Not far from his _conáck_ he was met by a rich coach from the
Prince of _Valachia_, complimented by his two eldest sons, and attended
with a guard of about five hundred men. His Excellency having mounted
the coach, preceded by the guard, made his entry about nine a clock;
when he was conducted to a spare palace of the Prince, near that of his
own residence, and entreated to use it as his own home. It is a fair and
gentile house, built of stone, and covered agreably to the custom of this
place with wooden tiles; and being furnished with apartments after the
Christian fashion, may be esteemed magnificent, when compared with the
barbarous edifices of the neighbouring Turks. From the front it looks
into a large garden, and from the right wing into another of somewhat a
lesser size; both which are agreable, and afford a convenience of shade
and verdure.

This afternoon the Prince came on horseback thro the lesser garden to
visit his Excellency, who met him at the garden door, and could scarce
prevail with him to precede in going up stairs. He returned in an hour,
and gave opportunity to his uncle, _Constantinus Cantacuzenus_, who has
the office of grand _stolnicho_, or _steward_, in this court, to pay my
Lord the same compliment. The name of the Prince is _Joannes Constantinus
Bassarabas_, who has enjoyed the principality about thirteen years,
having succeeded _Serbanus Cantacuzenus_, brother of the above mentioned
_Constantinus Stolnichus_. He is a promoter of good order and discipline
in the province, a reviver of architecture, and incourager of learning
both at _Bucurest_ and other places of the principality; into which he
has introduced two or three printing presses, and from thence published
several books useful for the instruction and edification of the Greek
church. He is about forty seven years of age, and has ten children,
four of them sons; the second of whom, being about fourteen years of
age, is well instructed in the Latin and Greek languages. He is of an
affable, mild, and courteous temper; generous, careful of the education
of his family, and a great encourager of religion; and therefore liberal
in his disbursements for printing and giving away books, erecting of
monasteries, adorning of churches, and other acts of piety. His uncle,
_Constantinus Cantacuzenus Stolnichus_, is an elderly person, who has
traveled over most parts of Europe; is skilled in the controversies of
their own church, as well as in the several liberal sciences; is also
well versed in politics, and by his counsels chiefly sustains the present
Prince, with the honour and interest of the principality.


April xxv.

By nine this morning his Excellency returned the visit to the Prince,
who received him at the head of the stairs, and entertained him at
first with a conference of about an hour and half long. After this his
Excellency was conducted into the dining room, where, at a long table
sumptuously spread, the Prince and his Excellency (the former on the
right hand) sat down to diner. On the side of his Excellency sat the
two eldest sons of the Prince, his son in law, with the other nobles
and officers of the court. On the side of the Prince sat in order the
retinue of the ambassador, with our conductor Count _Tomaso_ and others.
The feast was protracted at least seven hours, during which passed a
great variety of courses, consisting of excellent and costly dishes, with
plenty of exquisite wine, and many ceremonious healths; the principal
of which were to the _Grand Signior_, the _Emperor of Germany_, and
the _Queen of England_, all seconded with salvoes from the soldiery in
the adjoining court. Here we were made witnesses to a singular air of
courtesy, hospitality, and gentile behavior in the Valachian nobility;
but more particularly in the Prince himself, who drank to the health
and prosperity of each stranger at the table. At the conclusion of the
entertainment he veiled his Excellency with a rich silk robe of the
Valachian fashion, lined with an excellent sable fur, upon which his
Excellency and his retinue return to their own lodgings. The palace of
the Prince, with the apartments, and gardens adjoining, are truly noble
and magnificent; and tho not to be compared with those of some other
Christian princes, yet much preferable to those, in which the ignorant
Turks so ambitiously please themselves.


April xxvi.

This morning we had divine service and a sermon in his Excellency’s
family, and in the afternoon he paid a short visit to the Patriarch
of _Jerusalem_, but afterwards a much longer to the abovementioned
_Constantinus Cantacuzenus Stolnichus_. The Patriarch lodges in a large
_kane_, built by the present Prince; where are large apartments and
magazines for merchants, the rent of which may yeild about twenty purses
_per annum_, and is by the Prince consigned into that Patriarch’s hands
for the use of the _Holy sepulcher_.


April xxvii.

I visited the press of this place, where I found them printing some
pieces of devotion in Arabic, under the care of the Patriarch of
_Antioch_ to be distributed by him about his diocess. Beside this,
they were undertaking to print a large _folio_ of the famous _Maximus
Hieromonachus_, called Κυριακοδρόμιον, or _The course of the several
Sundays throughout the year_. On this occasion I there bought several
books, among which one containing all the _Liturgies_, _Hymns_,
_Rituals_, _Lessons_, and other devotional tracts, used on all occasions
in the Greek church through the course of the whole year.

This morning the Prince gave his Excellency another visit, which he
returned in the afternoon, and at the same time took leave, with a deep
sense of the generous, honourable, and affectionate treatment he had
received in this court. After his return from the Prince, he received
a visit of leave from _Constantinus Cantacuzenus Stolnichus_, who then
presented him with a gentile horse of the Valachian breed, and at the
same time two of the same breed and quality were sent him from the
Prince, upon which his Excellency answered the present of _Constantinus_
with a diamond ring, valued at three hundred pounds.

The same day I was favoured with a present of several Greek books, lately
printed in this province, from Κῦρ Γεώργιος Καστριώτης; as likewise of
some others from his Excellency _Constantinus Cantacuzenus_. Towards the
evening our curiosity led us half an hour out of town to visit a convent,
called in the Valachian tongue the _Catrochán_, and founded by the late
Prince _Serbanus Cantacuzenus_. It is accounted the most beautiful of
several in this province, founded by the present and preceding princes;
and therefore a short account of this may serve for a specimen of the
rest. It is situated on the _Dembowitza_, which washes it on two sides;
while the other two are adorned with a grove of lovely, close, and shady
oaks. The neighbouring pastures afford an entertaining prospect, whereas
the parts nearer to the convent are disposed into orderly vineyards, and
gardens. The fabric it self is an oblong quadrangle, built of regular
and massy stone, divided into cells for about forty monks, with lodgings
for the abbot, a common refectory, kitchin, and other public apartments.
But in the middle of the area is erected the chapel, of the exact figure
of the antient Greek churches, that is, distinguished into the νάρθηξ
or _porch_, πρόναος or _outward chapel_, νάος or _body of the church_,
βῆμα or _chancel_, and θυσιαστήριον or _altar_; the several parts being
regular and stately, supported with pillars, and covered with high
cupolas. The ornaments of painting, gilding, and embroidery are exceeding
rich; and the pictures so numerously disposed, as to possess every part
of the church in the inside, as well as the outside of the front. Here
is shewn the monument of _Serbán_ the founder, with his princess, his
brother, and other relations; whose pictures, among others, possess a
great part of the western wall. Here also are kept the two _horse tails_,
allowed by the Turks to be carried before this prince, together with the
_bandiéra_ of the province, and another called the _paschal colours_, in
which the whole _Trinity_ is profanely represented, and _God the Father_
expressed by the image of a reverend old man, looking over the body of
our _Savior_, as it hangs upon the cross.

_Bucurest_ is a large stragling town of a very peculiar make, the outward
parts very mean, consisting of houses, the greater part of which is
under ground like our cellars, and covered over at the top with straw
or bark of trees. The better sort of houses are about the palace of the
Prince, which are covered with handsome wooden tiles, the walls built
of substantial stone, and the yards and gardens always very wide[114],
enclosed with intire trunks of oaks set as near as possible to each
other. The streets appear like a continued bridge, being floored from
side to side with massy planks of ten yards long, and as many inches
thick; which work, however expensive it may seem, is continued thro all
the buildings of the place for the extent of some miles together. The
sight of the whole is agreable at a distance, by reason of the several
houses of the nobility, the palace of the Prince, and the number of
churches and convents. These last are all of one form, regularly built,
and rising with cupolas, wherein bells are often hung; which I mention,
as being the first I had heard since my arrival in Turkey.

The whole province is luxuriantly rich, abounding with woods and
pastures, but thinly inhabited, and that in caves and huts rather than
houses. Its chief income proceeds from wax, honey, hides, horses, the
mines of salt, and custom on some places of the _Danube_. By these it
is able to maintain its prince and barons splendidly, besides paying a
yearly tribute to the Turk, that is settled at three hundred and twenty
purses, which are equal to thirty two thousand pounds sterling, besides
three times that sum extorted beyond the compact. The lands of the
province are intirely in the hands of the Prince and barons; the rest,
who are rustics, being all either slaves or servants, whose persons or
service are at the disposal of the several nobles, on whom they depend.


April xxviii.

We proceed this morning from _Bucurest_, and after five hours travel take
up our lodging at a small village, called _Chrytshulest_. In the way we
stop a little towards the right hand to visit a gentile palace, which is
building by the Prince for his second son, situated on a pleasant lake.
And the day following, in seven hours from _Chrytshulest_, we pitch our
tents, and lodge near a small river, called _Ilsós_.


April xxx.

This day about twelve a clock we arrive at _Tergovist_, where his
Excellency and his retinue are lodged in the palace of the Prince. The
form and state hereof much resembles that of _Bucurest_; only it has the
advantage of a much finer garden, and therein of a beautiful stone summer
house; both which are regular, and may compare with those of the politer
Christendom. The town is pleasantly situated on the _Ialomitza_, beyond
which it enjoys the prospect of a beautiful tract of hills, which make
the boundary betwixt this province and that of _Transylvania_; but on the
other hand, the eye loses itself in an even boundless plain, encircled at
a large distance with stately woods. The city gives title to the chief
Metropolite of Valachia, and in like manner, till within these thirty
years, was the residence of their princes; when a rebellion against
the Turks being here formed by Prince _Ghika_, and the neighbourhood
of Transylvania contributing to render the place more suspected, his
successors were constrained to demolish it, and retire to _Bucurest_.
But within five years the present Prince has obtained fresh leave to
reestablish it, on condition he erects no fortifications in the place;
and accordingly it begins apace to be repeopled, while the Prince refits
his palace, embellishes his gardens, and invites the nobility to erect
their respective houses, that so they may attend him in those frequent
residences, which for the future he intends to make here.


May i.

We took the opportunity of the stay, we this day made at _Tergovist_, to
go after diner to a convent situated on the adjoining hills; which we
found well built of fair freestone, adorned with cupolas well carved in
lattice work of the same matter; but above all commanding a delightful
prospect over the subject plain, and city of _Tergovist_, which on
account of the palaces, the seats of the nobility, and the many fair
convents and churches there extant, affords an entertaining landskip.


May ii.

This day we travel four hours from _Tergovist_, and at length pitch our
tents in a pleasant place, surrounded with pendent woods, by the name
of _Isvóra_, not far from the stream of the _Dembowitza_, which yet
continued to flow on our left hand.


May iii.

This morning we proceed, and within half an hour arrive at the foot of
the mountains, where the _Dembowitza_ descends into the plain thro an
easy clift, which it perhaps has partly formed by the continual and rapid
course of its stream. Thro this plain we travel seven hours, in which
time we are obliged to cross the winding chanel of the river twenty times
or upwards; and being constantly diverted by the murmur of the falling
waters; by the shade of the shelving hills that form the vale, and by the
evenness of the ascent which imperceptibly leads us up the mountains, we
at length pitch in a fair meadow inclosed like a theatre with surrounding
trees and hills, where is a small village by the name of _Cotonést_.


May iv.

We continue our journey four hours thro the same sort of way, that is,
along a narrow shady vale, which conveys the winding waters of the
_Dembowitza_; which having crossed several times, we at length arrive
at the village of _Dragoslave_, and in half an hour farther at that
of _Rukar_, in the Greek map, Ῥούναλο, where we pitch and repose this
evening. This village is considerably large, consisting of houses all of
the Valachian fashion, that is, built round with trees laid even upon one
another, covered with an high and deep roof consisting of wooden tiles,
and within having no funnel or chimney to convey the smoke, but open only
in several parts of the roof to supply that defect.


May v.

Being now imperceptibly advanced almost as high as the snowy tops of the
mountain, which we see at a near distance impending over the village,
where we lodge, we are informed, that the remaining ascent for the
space of half an hour is very difficult, and that afterwards we are to
encounter a much more troublesome descent. His Excellency therefore
thought fit to repose here this day, and to take that opportunity of
sending before him his waggons, coaches, and the greatest part of his
baggage; that on the morrow, when he himself was to set forward, he
might pass with the greater ease. In the mean time, considering that
we then hoped to pass the limits, that separate the two provinces of
_Transylvania_ and _Valachia_, it will be here proper to set down such
general remarks, as occurred in traveling thro the latter.

This province was under the Romans from _Trajan_ to _Gallienus_, or
rather to _Aurelian_; who, tho he was born here, yet translated the
remainder of the Romans hence into _Moesia_ and _Pannonia_. When it
became tributary to the Turks by force of arms, it was glad to accept the
imposition of three hundred and twenty purses yearly; whilst _Moldavia_,
which voluntarily submitted to that yoke, was assessed at no more than
sixty. Ever since, the nomination of their prince has entirely resided in
the Turk, who nevertheless allows him all rights of sovereignty in the
principality, except that of declaring war, and coining his own money.
That which ordinarily passes in this countrey, is therefore either the
Dutch, or Venetian _lion dollars_; with the _quarts_ of Poland; and a
small Saxon coin, here called _bains_, of which one hundred thirty two
make a _lion dollar_. Justice is here performed according to the ancient
laws of the province, which are agreable to the Roman law. The power
and act of pronouncing sentence is wholly in the prince, after which,
as commonly in Turkey, the execution immediately ensues. For the better
adjustment of tribute, and other common duties, the whole province
is divided into seventeen counties, of which each is to furnish its
respective proportion. In time of war it ordinarily maintains twenty
thousand men, of which about the fourth part continue in pay in the time
of peace.

The natives ordinarily call themselves _Romans_, and their province
_Tzerra Romanesca_[115], being persuaded that they are descended of that
original. And in favour of this opinion they may allege their language,
which is a broken mixture of Latin and Italian, into which have been
accidentally adopted some few Turkish and Sclavonic words. They write
intirely the Cyrillian Sclavonic character, which seems to be a detortion
from the Greek. And these properties of their language, as well as the
character[116], they have in common with _Moldavia_; which two provinces,
together with _Transylvania_, constituted the ancient _Dacia_, the
two former _Ripensis_, and the last _Mediterranea_. The wines of this
province, especially about _Tergovist_, are exquisite fine. The Valachian
habit much resembles that of the Turks. Their religion is intirely that
of the Greek church, and the government of it subject to the Patriarch
of Constantinople. Their liturgic rites are performed either in the
Greek or Sclavonian tongue; tho I was assured, that in some churches the
Valachian was admitted, at least they have frequently the _Gospels_ and
other offices in that language, but the liturgy itself more rarely. The
churches of each parish, as well as chapels of the many monasteries,
which are seen here, are usually very fair, well built, richly adorned,
profanely painted, and for the most part furnished with bells; tho in
some places I have observed the wooden plank, which is common to the
Greeks in Turkey, where bells are not permitted. The νάρθηξ, or _porch_,
is generally daubed with superstitious representations of the punishments
of hell; and often the inward walls are profaned with some inconsistent
corporeal image of _God the Father_, a thing here permitted against the
professed principles and declarations of the Greek church.


May vi.

We proceed this day over the mountain, on a steep craggy rocky way,
lined on each side with an dismal shade, and sometimes looking down
into a frightful precipice. By half an hour after ten we arrive at the
limits of the two provinces, which are distinguished by a wooden cross
on the edge of the mountain, from whence the prospect begins to open
into _Transylvania_. Here my Lord was saluted from the government of
_Transylvania_ by Count _Michael Mikes_, as well as from the magistrates
of _Cronstadt_ by their deputy, and at the same time attended by a troop
of horse, with the colours of the Emperor, as his ordinary guard; upon
which the troop of _Cosacks_, which had hitherto guarded his Excellency
from _Tergovist_, returned home. In one hour and an half from hence we
descend the mountain, and at a narrow passage, where the river _Bozza_
finds its passage out of the snowy hills into the adjoining plain, we
arrive at the castle of _Bran_, a small fortress which defends this pass;
where his Excellency was saluted, as he passed, with three different
salvos of about twenty one guns. Within canon shot of this fort we find
a fair set of huts, ready pitched for the reception of his Excellency,
with a buttery, kitchen, and other accommodations, provided for his use
by the abovesaid Count _Mikes_; who now undertook the care of the public
allowance and conduct of his Excellency from this place, as far as
_Hermanstadt_.


May vii.

By six this morning we set forward from the castle of _Bran_, directing
our course for _Cronstadt_, being now about two Hungarian miles, or
twelve Italian, distant from it. In half an hour his Excellency was met
by major general _Glychensberg_, governor of the forces at _Cronstadt_
and the parts adjoining; together with lieutenant colonel _Graven_ of
the regiment of general _Rabutin_. The same civility he received from
the judge and other magistrates of the city, with whom, and the numerous
retinue which came along with them, we now proceed, making a train of
a mile long. In the mean time our road lay thro that spot of ground,
on which general _Heusler_ was defeated, and made prisoner by Count
_Tekely_ in the year sixteen hundred and ninety; as also thro the town
of _Rosnaw_, lying in the middle betwixt _Bran_ and _Cronstadt_, where
there is a considerable castle, which likewise saluted his Excellency,
as he passed, with three repeated salvos. About eleven a clock we enter
the city, the castle repeating continual salvos, which we find all in
arms, and the streets lined on both sides with musqueteers, as also
the whole soldiery drawn up in order in the market place. In this is
the house of general _Glychensberg_, where his Excellency was received
with all marks of respect and honour, and in an hour’s time invited to
a noble entertainment. After diner, by order of Count _Mikes_, we were
attended to our several stations, where a Transylvanian gentleman was
appointed to act as commissary, or _proveditóre_, in each respective
quarter. Particularly Mr. Paget and myself were favoured with the company
and attendance of one _Lodislaus Doeza_, a civil, intelligent, and well
behaved gentleman of the Helvetian confession. And this afternoon Mr.
Paget and I walked up the castle hill, from whence we had a prospect
of the city, which is almost triangular, enclosed with a stone wall,
situated in a narrow vale, under an high snowy clift of mountains, but
on one side looking towards a level and fruitful plain. It is surrounded
with three distinct suburbs, beautifully intermixed with gardens; and in
one part of these suburbs, which runs more within the hills, stands an
handsome Valachian church. A dreadful fire about fourteen years since
laid the whole town in ashes, and at the same time utterly consumed
the library of the school, which is here instituted for teaching of
philosophy and theology. The same calamity almost ruined the cathedral
church, of which now nothing but the outward case remains to testify its
former grandeur; the roof, which was of arched stone, being now only
covered with boards.

The general religion of this place is Lutheran; and the church above
mentioned is governed by a dean and thirteen capitularies, who enjoy
considerable rents from the thirteen parishes of the district of
_Cronstadt_, which are supplied by them. The ecclesiastical government
of the whole district is partly in this chapter, and partly in the
superintendent of _Cronstadt_; which office is sometimes distinct,
but for the most part held together with the deanry; and from this
superintendent appeals lie to the bishop of the whole province of
Transylvania.

The civil government of the town is in a judge elected every two years,
a senate, and a commonalty of an hundred men. The sentence of the judge
is final, and is governed by laws of the place model’d according to the
civil law. The city since the fire is fairly rebuilt, with a certain
regularity of walls and windows to the street, and the roofs are all
covered, as in _Valachia_, with wooden tiles. The common language is
Saxon; this being one of the cities, which belong to the great colony of
that nation, which makes one third of _Transylvania_.


May ix.

This morning we depart from _Cronstadt_ at six a clock by the way of
_Feketeholm_, which has a church fortified like a garrison. From thence
we proceed thro woods and hills to _Veledin_; where in a cold watery plot
of grass, surrounded with woods, we lodge this night in tents. Here I
took leave of Count _Tomáso_, who then presented me with two other books
from _Constantinus Stolnichus_.


May x.

General _Glychensberg_, who waited on his Excellency to this place from
_Cronstadt_, now returned thither. We proceed thro a troublesome way and
dark wood to _Sharkan_, which at length we find deliciously situated upon
a river, which a little way from hence enters the _Aluta_, now called
_Alt_. Here I lodged at the house of the minister, who was a Lutheran,
by name _George Sularius_; and, it being Sunday, I attended him to their
evening service.


May xi.

We set forward thro a fair, rich, and well cultivated country to
_Fogeras_, a large but scattered town, and there take up our station
by eleven a clock. His Excellency was here lodged in an house, which
belonged to Count _Tekely_, who was prime minister to the late prince
_Abaffi_, and slain in the defeat of General _Heusler_ near _Cronstadt_.
I had here some conversation with the chief pastor of the place, _Michael
Rozgoni_, a learned Calvinist, who had studied in Holland. At _Fogeras_
is a castle surrounded with a wide mote, and so strong, or at least so
fortunate, that it is said never to have been taken by force of arms.


May xii.

From hence we proceed in six hours to _Úcha_, a village inhabited
intirely by Valachs. And setting out early from thence the next morning,
by twelve a clock we reach _Porumback_, a most delightful village,
situated very near the banks of the _Aluta_; which river attended us for
these three last days journey, not far from our right hand, under the
adjoining hills. His Excellency was here met and complimented by general
_Rabutin_ from _Hermanstadt_, who came accompanied with Count _Seau_, the
Emperor’s chief commissary in Transylvania, and two other officers of
the imperial army. The General returned before diner, and left my Lord
well accommodated in a pleasant country house of Prince _Abaffi_; whose
barnes, and magazines of grain, with the adjoining fish ponds, and rich
meadows, that surround the farm, we viewed this afternoon with great
pleasure.


May xiv.

We leave _Porumback_, and are presently after upon the banks of the
_Aluta_, over which river his Excellency’s whole baggage, with the
horses, coaches, waggons, and other necessaries, were transported upon
flat bottomed boats. We proceed one Hungarian mile from our _conáck_,
and then his Excellency is again met by general _Rabutin_, and several
officers of the army, together with a train of five hundred persons,
consisting of two troops of horse with the magistrates and chief citizens
of _Hermanstadt_. After mutual compliments, my Lord takes his place in
the General’s coach, and so they both ride together another Hungarian
mile to _Hermanstadt_, attended with a numerous retinue of guards and
citizens into the town, where the canons continually kept firing, and
the inhabitants received them in arms. There his Excellency being first
lodged in a large and convenient house in the marketplace, very near the
palace of the General, about one a clock was conduced thither to diner,
where a sumptuous feast was prepared at two tables. At the first sat his
Excellency with his retinue, general _Rabutin_, his Lady, the Princess
of _Holstein_, with the Countesses _Seau_, _Bethlen_, _Mikes_, and some
others; as also the Counts _Seau_, _Bethlen_, _Mikes_, _Stanville_ of
Lorrain, _Costa_ of Piedmont, _Monticelli_, and Commissary _Belli_. After
diner his Excellency returned to his lodging, where he was now attended
by Count _Bethlen_, instead of Count _Mikes_, who was appointed to
conduct him from _Hermanstadt_ as far as _Clausenburg_. In the evening
the General complimented his Excellency with the command of the garrison,
during his stay in this place; and thereupon pressed him four different
times to give the watch word, which nevertheless he peremptorily declined.


May xv.

His Excellency staid this and the following day at _Hermanstadt_,
together with his retinue; where he continued to be treated in the same
gentile manner by the General.


May xvii.

This being Sunday, we had divine service and a sermon at his Excellency’s
lodgings, and then dined again with the General. And in the evening I was
favoured by my landlord, Mr. _George Reisner_, senator of the city (an
ingenious and learned person, who had studied ten years in Holland) with
his coach and company to visit his garden, beyond the walls and mote of
the city; near to which adjoins a famous large and intire crucifix cut
in stone, much adored by the papists of this country. The same gentleman
gave me notice of three Roman inscriptions which, as I was informed, had
been brought from _Ulpia Trajana_. The first was upon a stone coffin in
the market place, of which the following is a copy.

    T. VAREN. T. F. PAP. SABINIANO EQ. R.
    FLAM. LAVRENTINO ITEM FLAM.
    COL. SARMIZ. DEC. COL. SAR. ET APVL.
    E. M. V. OMNIB. EQVESTRIB. MILIT. PERFUNC.
    CORNEL. LVCILLA CONIVX PILA EXTRVC
    TA. SARCOFAGVM IN QVO VARENIA
    PROBINAQVE SABINIANI SOROR CONDITA
    ERAT ETIAM EIVS CORPORE CONLOCA
    TO SVPERPOSVIT[117].

The others were in the house of General _Rabutin_, upon the base of two
pillars, as I have here given them.

    I. O. M.
    M. ROMAN
    VS INCOL
    PVS
    EX VOTO.

    I. O. M.
    C. SEMPRONIVS
    VRBANVS
    PROC. Φ. AVG[118].

The same gentleman shewed me also the cathedral church of this place,
entertained me with the music of the organ, and presented me with a book
called _Breviculus de nationibus Transylvanicis_. Another on the same
subject was given me the day before by the _rector scholae Cibiniensis_,
which place with the adjoining library I then visited. This night I
likewise returned a visit to the reverend _Isaacus Zabanius, primarius
pastor Cibiniensis, et ecclesiae cathedralis decanus_, by whom and his
wife I was kindly entertained above three hours. He then gave me an
Answer, which he had formerly compiled, to _Campiani Rationes decem_.


May xviii.

By six this morning his Excellency and retinue leaving _Hermanstadt_
were attended by the General, and gentlemen above mentioned, beyond the
adjoining river, after which they all took a cordial leave; especially
lieutenant colonel _Graven_, to whom his Excellency presented a diamond
ring. We now proceed in our way, at which time I received an obliging
letter from Mr. Dunster, with an account of my successor’s arrival at
_Smyrna_ upon the seventeenth of _April_.

_Hermanstadt_ is a fair city, consisting of well proportioned houses,
regularly plaistered and covered with brick; and is incompassed with an
intire brick wall, and that again with the water either of a mote, or
river, which surrounds it. Over the gate, by which we entered, is the
statue of _Hermannus_, the founder of the place. It is designed to be
yet farther fortified by the Germans; for which end they are now marking
out the place of a citadel, which they propose to build so strong and
regular, as thereby to curb not only this city, but the whole province.
It is intirely inhabited by Saxons, and consequently by professors of
the Lutheran or Augustan confession. They have here three churches, of
which the cathedral is large and well adorned. The General, and German
garrison, which now consists of twelve hundred men, as likewise a few
other papists, are fain to be contented with a private chapel. General
_Rabutin_ is a comely, courteous, and facetious gentleman, of severe
discipline, and prudent management of the Imperial soldiery, which
thro this whole province, to the number of about ten thousand men, is
committed to his charge. He is of French extraction, and was forced to
fly while young, on account of a duel, from his native country to the
court of _Vienna_; where after long service he at length obtained favour
of the Princess of _Holstein_ then wife to Chancellor _Sinsendorff_; who
after that minister’s death condescended to marry him, and so raised him
to his present pitch of fortune. The civil government is in the hands
of the _Judex Cibiniensis_, whose jurisdiction reaches not only over
this city, but even the whole Saxon district. Next to him is the _Consul
Cibiniensis_, whose government is confined within the city. And besides
these there is a senate of about sixteen, and then a commonalty of
about an hundred men. The place in Latin is called _Cibinium_, from the
adjoining river _Cibin_.

Before eleven a clock we again take up our quarters at _Visakna_, that
is, _Saltzburg_, so called from the _salt mines_; which I visited this
afternoon, in company with the minister of the place, _Joannes Nagy
Borosnyai_ of the Helvetian confession. The salt is here dug, and
cut into stones (as they call them) of a square figure, and about an
hundred pound in weight. Being so prepared in the cavern, which at the
bottom extends itself very wide in the manner of a dome, they are drawn
up by cables, of which one winds round an adjoining machine drawn by
four horses, and the other unwinds at the same time. The pit itself is
square, lined within with planks, as far as the earthy soil reaches,
and extending afterwards to the depth of about an hundred yards. These
stones are afterwards laid up in magazines, to be transported on occasion
by the _Maros_ into the _Danube_, and thence vended into Turkey or
Germany for the use of the Emperor, who is the sole proprietor of all
the natural mines, with which this province abounds. The above mentioned
minister here gave me some _gemmae salis_, as pellucid as ordinary
crystal. He is a man well learned, and has traveled into many countries,
particularly England. At the same place I likewise received a present of
some _specimina metallica_, namely gold, cinnabar, antimony, and others;
which were sent me by a gentleman, named _Samuel Koloseri_, the Emperor’s
general inspector of the Transylvanian mines.


May xix.

We depart hence for _Tsanad_ and arrive there before twelve a clock; from
whence his Excellency designing for _Enyed_ by the way of _Balasfalva_,
Mr. Montague, Mr. _Gangain_, and myself take this opportunity of steping
out of the way to see _Alba Julia_, or _Wissenburg_. We therefore hire a
post calash by five a clock in the afternoon, and it being distant three
long Hungarian miles in dirty way, we scarce arrive there by twelve at
night, having near the city crossed the _Maurusius_ over a wooden bridge.
In our way thither we saw a gang of _Zingans_, or gypses, common in this
and the neighbouring provinces, as well as Turkey.


May xx.

His Excellency continued his journey this day to _Balasfalva_; and in the
morning we at _Abba Julia_ wait on the governor, Count _Banti_, a worthy
and courteous protestant nobleman, but for many years weakened and
tormented with the colic. We were conducted to him thro the room, where
the _comitia totius Transylvaniae_ are now held; and where Count _Seau_,
commissary for his Imperial Majesty, solicites the states for raising of
subsidies, and proposes other orders to them from the court of _Vienna_.
This done, we visit likewise Count _Seau_; who was so complaisant as
to shew us the castle where he dwells, being a magnificent palace, and
lately the residence of the princes of Transylvania. At the same time we
viewed the large Calvinist church adjoining thereto, which is a lofty
and stately fabric, but has suffered much from the Tartars, who defaced
the fair monuments, and burnt the tower, in the year sixteen hundred
and fifty eight. It is now fortified with a ditch and rampart, which is
likewise usual all over Transylvania. The above mentioned monuments are
of _Joannes Corvinus_, commonly called _Huniades_; of Queen _Isabella_,
and her son _Ladislaus_; of _Sigismund_, and _George Ragotzi_, together
with the famous _Gabriel Bethlen_. The same morning we paid a visit to
the bishop of the reformed church in Transylvania, who resides here,
and is likewise pastor of the place, by name _Stephanus Vespreni_. He
is an old man, seems decayed in his parts, and is troubled with a palsy
in his tongue. With him we saw the professor of the _Schola Albensis_,
which in the year sixteen hundred seventy two was translated hither from
_Patak_ in Hungary. He is a learned, curious, and laborious man, teaches
divinity, natural philosophy, the tongues, and mathematics; has traveled
into England and other countries, and is a great admirer of the English;
for which reason his study is full of our books, and he both writes,
and speaks, and even teaches our language once a week to his scholars.
His name is _Kaposi Samuel_, and was made _S. Theologiae Doctor_ by a
_diploma_ from the Prince of Orange. These visits performed, we repair to
Count _Banti’s_ to diner, where we were honoured with a splendid feast;
the governor keeping his chamber. There sat at table the Lady governess,
who is of the family of _Bethlen_, with Countess _Bethlen Samuel_,
Count _Bethlen Nicolas_ chancellor of the states of Transylvania, Count
_Apór_ treasurer, Count _Holler_ president of the states (the two last
papists) together with Count _Telchi_, _Joannes Sacks_ the _Judex regius
Cibiniensis_, with Count _Seau_, and some others. After diner we spent
some time with professor _Kaposi_, and at night supped with Count _Seau_.


May xxi.

His Excellency staid this whole day at _Balasfalva_; and we the morning
at _Alba Julia_, which was antiently called _Apulum_[119], where we
imployed ourselves in viewing some Roman sculptures, and copying the
three following inscriptions.

    I. O. M. ET DIIS
    PENATIBVS
    SCAVRIANVS

    MINERVAE TIB.
    JVLIVS NOVIA
    NVS II ... LEG.
    POSVIT

    PRO SALVTE DO
    MINI NOSTRI
    SANCTISSIMI AN
    TONINI PII AVGVS
    TI NYMPHIS NOVIS[120]
    SACRVM RVFRI
    VS[121] SVLPICIA ...
    LEG. XIII. G ...
    ANIO

At midday we dined with Count _Seau_, and by two a clock taking leave of
the governor, we set forward in a calash for _Enyed_[122], two Hungarian
miles distant from hence, where we arrived before seven, the road lying
all the way near the banks of the _Maurusius_.


May xxii.

We take a calash this morning, and proceed about an hour from _Enyed_ to
meet his Excellency, at the place where he crossed the _Maurusius_ by
flat boats; which done, we wait on him back to _Enyed_, and there arrive
about one a clock. After diner I visited the school and college of this
place, which is reputed the most flourishing of those, that belong to
the reformed Calvinist church in Transylvania. It has three professors,
one of philosophy, _Stephanus Kolosvari_, who has traveled into England;
another of divinity, _Stephanus Engedi_, a learned man, who gave me a
popish book, concerning the Emperor’s treatment of the reformed churches
in Hungary; and a third of the Greek tongue, logic, and history, _Fr.
Pariz-Papa_, a physician, who presented me with some printed tracts of
his own, and a manuscript _Itinerary_ of Dr. _Basire_ prebendary of
Durham, left by him in _Alba Julia_, where he professed divinity during
the late usurpation in England.


May xxiii.

We proceed three Hungarian miles from _Enyed_ to _Therda_, where we
arrive about one a clock, and find it a dirty ill built town, but
remarkable for its salt pits. It has two Calvinist churches, with one
appropriated to the Unitarians. The town stands upon the _Aranyas_,
antiently the _Chrysolas_, in which the _Zingans_ find gold dust,
principally after rain.


May xxiv.

It being Whitsunday, his Excellency halted this day, and in his lodgings
had divine service and a sermon. After diner we visit the salt pits,
which altogether resemble those of _Visakna_, except that the salt seems
somewhat clearer and stronger. Returning we find the following Roman
inscription.

    ISIDI
    ET SERAPI
    C. IVL. ANN
    ISONVS ...
    LEG. V. M. HO.
    ET FL. APO
    LINARIA ...
    EIVS V. L. S


May xxv.

We proceed three Hungarian miles to _Clausenburg_, the _Zeugma_ of
the antients, by the Hungarians called _Kolosvar_, and in Latin
_Claudiopolis_. Here Governor _Banti_ met my Lord half a mile out of the
town, and treated him at diner; after which taking leave, he presented
him with a set of six fine coach horses. It is a fair city with a broad
and straight street; but still retains on the houses and churches the
marks of a dreadful fire, which about five years since almost entirely
consumed it. It is seated upon the first branch of the river _Samos_, and
is entirely surrounded with an antient thick wall, on the inside of which
I was shewn the two following inscriptions, the latter whereof has the
characters beautifully cut.

    FORTVNAE AVG.
    V L P. MASCV
    LINVS VTE. EX
    SIGNIF. LEG. V. M.
    TE EC. COL. AP. PRO
    SA. SVA. TE. SVOR. PL

    D.      M.
    M. AVREL ... PAPIA .. AVG. COL. N. AP[123].
    VIXIT ANNIS LX
    AVRELIA BONA CONIVX MA
    RITO ER. H. CIENO ... VM[124] CV
    RAVIT

The Unitarians, who are one of the sects received in Transylvania, have
here established their principal seat. I conversed with one of them,
_Stephanus Stanizlo_, professor of philosophy, with whom I visited their
_plebanus_, or chief pastor, and saw their church and college. I likewise
visited the Calvinist pastor, as also their church and college, where I
saw _M. B. Nemethi_ their professor of philosophy, _Sam. Nemethi_ the
divinity professor being absent. In several public places of the city I
observed antient dates of time, particularly over one of the gates, where
the year was marked, with these characters, [Illustration] that is 1477;
and over the Unitarian college thus, [Illustration], which is 1476[125].
Here Count _Bethlen’s_ commission ending, his Excellency is provided for
by Baron _Vesselini_.


May xxvi.

We stay this day at _Clausenburg_. The next we proceed two Hungarian
miles to _Erdicurestúr_, where I lodge in a poor Valach house. And the
day following we make the like progress thro woods and narrow vales to
_Balashaza_, upon the river _Almasch_.


May xxix.

Two more Hungarian miles thro the like way bring us to _Zilak_, a
reformed Calvinist village, where I visited the chief pastor, _Stephanus
Foris Debreezeni_. Within half an hour of this place we passed certain
mountains very woody, but not exceeding high, which part Transylvania
from Hungary; after which we now enter into those parts of Hungary, which
lately gave part of his title to the prince of Transylvania.


May xxxi.

Passing two Hungarian miles thro a country more open and well improved,
we arrive at _Somlyo_; in which there is an old palace, once a seat of
residence for the kings of Hungary. Here the guards and commissary is
again changed, _Franciscus Trantzeni_, an Hungarian gentleman, now taking
that charge. As we continued in this town the following day, I had an
opportunity of conversing with the minister, whose name is _Zovány_.


June i.

We set forward three Hungarian miles to _Margarita_, and in the way
cross the _Krasna_, near which are the limits that terminate the parts
of Hungary. The soil is here luxuriantly rich, well varied with pasture
and intervening woods, and everywhere adorned with damask roses, growing
wild on short shrubs. Part of my time was here employed in discoursing
with the minister, _Johannes Banki_. But having now passed thro
_Transylvania_, as well as the parts of _Hungary_ subject to the same
government, it is here proper to recollect some general observations
relating to this province.

_Transylvania_, which for many years had been tributary to the Turks, and
consequently under the protection of that empire, which still allowed
them the choice and government of their own princes, was in the year
1687, under the conduct of the Duke of _Lorrain_, subjected to the arms
of the Emperor; and thereupon by capitulation they resigned themselves to
the Germans, under whom they have since continued, tho as yet the Emperor
has assumed no distinct title from thence. He has ordinarily in garrison
here about twelve regiments, which since the peace of _Carlowítz_ serve
rather to curb the inhabitants, than to awe the neighbouring Turk. To
this end they are now preparing a strong citadel in _Hermanstadt_, and
designing others in proper places, on pretence of charges due to these
forts and the standing militia. The Emperor exacts yearly severe taxes,
of which they generally complain, as being four times more than was
exacted by the Turk. For whereas they then paid the yearly tribute and
exaction of about two hundred thousand _floreni Rhenenses_, there is this
year particularly demanded from them, in the present assembly of the
government at _Alba Julia_, the sum of one million forty thousand six
hundred, which is charged for the following particulars. The

    _Quantum militare_,                        750,000.
    _Ad fortalitia_,                           100,000.
    _Debitum principis Duca_[126],              65,600.
    _Bonificationes superoneratis_,             60,000.
    _Ad salarium camellariae_,                  15,000.
    _Inevitabiles extraordinariae expensae_     50,000.

These subsidies are demanded at the assembly in the Emperor’s name,
by his commissary, Count _Seau_; and the care of levying and raising
it is incumbent on the governor, the chancellor, the treasurers, the
_assessores tabulae regiae_, with other officers and members of the
assembly. Thus the civil government of the province is committed to the
Transylvanian nobility, distinguished by the officers abovementioned; but
the military government is, in the hands of General _Rabutin_, who holds
the province to a rigid and exact obedience.

Transylvania is in the hands of three distinct people. First the
_Szekeli_, which are otherwise corruptly wrote _Sciculi_, _Siculi_,
or _Scytuli_[127]. The second are the _Saxones_. And the third are
the _Hungari_. The first and third of these speak the same Hungarian
language, and are _Hunns_ of the same original, only settled in this
country at different times. The _Saxons_ speak intirely the German Saxon
language, from which nation they are a colony, and settled here under
_Geysa_ the second King of Hungary.

They have each of them their distinct laws, customs, and privileges, and
are severally divided after this manner. First the _Szekeli_ into seven
_szeks_, namely: _Meros-szék_, _Udvarhel-szék_, _Harom-szék_, _Kesdi Orba
Sepsi-szék_, _Csik-szék_, _Gyorgy-szék_, and _Arangus-szék_. Over each of
these seats preside so many captains; and being a warlike robust people,
still retaining the ferity of the Scythians, of which the whole body of
the _Hunni_ was at first a colony, they have been always exempted from
taxes and duties to the government, except only the service of war upon
occasion under their respective captains. But of late the Emperor has
persuaded them to submit to the like taxes and duties, with all other his
Transylvanian subjects. On account of their not holding their lands of
the government, there is a peculiar custom obtaining among them, that in
defect of heirs their estate escheats not to the government, but to the
next neighbour.

The _Saxons_ have in like manner their seven seats alloted from their
first settlement, namely: _Szerdaky-szék_, _Szeben-szék_, _Brassoy-szék_,
_Medyes-szék_, _Segyvar-szék_, _Bestereze-szék_, and _Erdovidek-szék_.
Each of these seats have their capital city, called _Regia et libera
civitas_. Over this city, and the seat or district belonging to it,
presides a _judex regius_, called in their language, _konings rickter_.
But the authority and prerogative of the _Judex Cibiniensis_, that is of
_Hermanstadt_, extends itself over the several Saxon seats; except that
he of _Brassow_ or _Cronstadt_ pretends in many cases an exemption, which
has been allowed, because of its too great distance from the tribunal of
_Szeben_, or _Hermanstadt_. Besides the authority of this judge, there
is a subordinate government in each city by a senate, which ordinarily
consists of about sixteen, and a centumvirate or commonalty, tho it
seldom contains a complete hundred. Each in their several districts have
the _jus gladii_, and all other prerogatives of an intire jurisdiction.

The third and richer part of Transylvania, possessed by the _Hungarians_,
is supposed and called the seat of the only Transylvanian nobility; and
accordingly it is divided into seven _comitatus_, or residences, of
its several courts, namely: The _comitatus Huniadensis_, _Albensis_,
_Thordensis_, _Claudiopolitanus_, _Interior et Exterior Zolnokiensis_,
_Doboczensis_, and _Krasnaiensis_. Now each of these counties has four
_comites_, of which two are called _supremi_, and two _inferiores_; in
whose hands, together with other nobles under them, remain the whole
jurisdiction and possession of their respective counties; the other
inhabitants being not only tenants, but subjects, as they call them,
and in some manner slaves to their respective nobles, to whom they
ordinarily owe the work of three, and sometimes of more days in the week.

Besides these, the _Valachi_ are every where in great numbers intermixted
among the Transylvanian nations, but have no jurisdiction or dominion of
their own; and therefore they remain as nourishers of cattle, and in that
service slaves and subjects to the rest. And not only _Valachs_[128],
but likewise (tho in lesser numbers) there are found up and down in
Transylvania, Rascians, Muscovites, Armenians, Jews, and others.

Those called the received religions in Transylvania, that is, those who
above the space of an age have obtained the protection of their princes
under oath, and of the Emperor under articles upon their late subjection,
are four; the Roman Catholic; the Lutheran; the Calvinist, which is here
called peculiarly the Reformed; and the Unitarian. The first of these
is more frequent in _Szekulia_, but yet not so prevalent as to possess
even a tenth part of all Transylvania. The second, or Lutheran, is
common to all the Saxon nation in this province. The third flourishes
in _Szekulia_, and the _comitatus Hungarici_. The fourth prevails here
and there likewise in the same countries, but those who profess it are
not so numerous in either. However they have a flourishing college at
_Clausenberg_, together with a large church; tho neither for beauty,
nor the number of its communicants, equal to that of the Calvinist
confession. These several religions are well known, and distinguished
by their faith and principles, all over Europe. I shall therefore only
say this concerning the discipline of the three last, that their several
parishes collected into distinct dioceses are subject to their respective
seniors; and these seniors, in their order, are likewise subject to a
provincial bishop, who has his court, in which he judges matrimonial and
other spiritual causes, and has also the sole power of ordaining, as
likewise of calling and presiding over their yearly synod. And to this
synod there is adjoined a consistory, which is in the nature of an upper
house, and a council to the bishop.

The Lutheran churches are in many places splendid, adorned with organs
and pictures, and little differing from the form of our larger churches,
except that the altar is immoveable, and built of stone, and sometimes
too profusely painted. Their worship consists of forms of prayers, then
hymns, after these lessons and sermons, and lastly prayers and concluding
hymns. The worship of the Unitarians exactly corresponds with that of
the Calvinists. These latter have sermons twice a week, besides Sundays,
as also morning and evening service throughout the week, at which appear
large and devout congregations in many places. Their service is a metre
psalm, a prayer from the pulpit, and then concludes with another psalm.
They have a form of prayer, and an injunction of their bishop to make
use of no other; but the custom of most ministers has introduced the use
of their own premeditated devotions, and accordingly the people begin
to disesteem those, who confine themselves to the form. The Lutherans,
Calvinists, and Unitarians live peaceably with one another; but are not
admitted to each others communion of Christ’s body, without a special
declaration of conformity. The Lutherans in some places consecrate a
wafer, and in other places leaven bread. They likewise have auricular
confession, but abuse it not, as the Papists. Their main difference from
the Calvinists consists in their avowed corporeal ubiquitarian presence.
Among other known tenets of the Unitarians, by which they take away the
force of the Christian sacraments, tho they generally use infant baptism
not to give scandal to the Calvinists, yet they rather wish to delay it
till the age of twelve years or upwards, and often practice accordingly.

These three protestant religions remain as yet in the undisturbed
profession of their faith. But upon several late encroachments of the
Jesuits, and other priests, in confidence of the popish government, to
which they are subject; upon the withdrawing of the tithes usually paid
to the protestant ministers from the salt mines, and now given to popish
monks; and lastly upon the care, which is taken by the court of Vienna,
to supply all offices of the province with papist ministers: upon these
several accounts, I say, the whole reformed people of Transylvania,
especially the Calvinists, begin to be under great apprehensions,
and from the governor to the meanest gentleman, earnestly embraced
this occasion of recommending their cause to the good services of his
Excellency at the Imperial court; after which they implored the prayers
and good wishes of the church of England, and in many places took a
solemn melancholy leave of us, as if they were just entering upon a
martyrdom.

The religion of the Valachs, Muscovites, Armenians, Rascians, and others,
is that of their respective nations in their proper seats and countries.
And it may be farther noted in relation to the religion of Transylvania,
that as in Hungary, so here likewise, the Jesuits, who were before
excluded by a positive article, have now an express liberty of entering
and setling in this province. Nor can I omit to remark the great and
blameable facility both of the Calvinists, and Lutherans, in matters of
divorce.

After the religion of Transylvania, the natural soil of the country falls
under consideration; which is luxuriantly rich, well cultivated, full of
inhabitants, and conveniently distinguished with a sufficient quantity
of wood, hills, and water. The surface of the earth is almost every
where black, without the least stone to be observed in many places; and
in several tracts so fertile, as not to require the advantage of dung,
except only some parts of _Siculia_ where it is used. Besides all kinds
of grain, which grow on the surface of the earth, within it abounds
with veins of metals, minerals, and fossils of all sorts, particularly
of gold; so that, as I was informed by the Emperor’s inspector of his
mines, there was last year dug here to the value of twenty five thousand
_zechins_. But among other fossils the native cinnabar is most rare, and
the quicksilver which is here found to perfection. Salt is dug in several
places, in the manner described above[129]; by which a large revenue
accrues to the Emperor, to whom the property of all mines belongs. But in
the mean time the people suffer in the price of this commodity; for since
their late subjection to the Emperor, a stone of salt weighing about an
hundred pounds can scarce be bought for three florins, whereas heretofore
three stones of salt were sold for one florin. The money current in
Transylvania is that of the Emperor, the _quarts_ of Poland, with some
other coins. The reports related by some, who were eye witnesses,
concerning diverse particles of gold found in the products of their
vineyards, both here and about the celebrated mountain of _Tokái_, are
very remarkable; of which I shall only mention these following. A piece
of gold is said to have grown to a vine, instead of the green tendrel,
by which it takes hold of the adjoining trees, or other substance that
supports it. Pure gold was found in a grape, instead of its ordinary
natural stone. Small gold drops were observed to adhere to the skin of
a grape. And even an intire grape had been seen to consist of a perfect
coat of gold.

As to the temper and disposition of the inhabitants, they appear cordial
and hospitable, drink almost continually, and eat plentifully, are
unpolite but importunate in their civility, and even the vulgar sort
usually speak Latin; they are of a robust constitution, and principally
the _Siculians_, who have likewise a fierce and stately mein. Their habit
is a short waistcoat made very close to the body[130], and sleeves with
flaps to them, that come over the backs of their hands. Their breeches
are likewise close to their thighs, and from thence continued down in the
form of a stocking to their feet. But on their legs they commonly wear
yellow or red boots, to which are constantly fixed spurs, often three
inches long. Over their waistcoat, when they go abroad, they throw a
loose but short fur vest, which is either embroidered, or adorned with
silver loops, on each side before. The habit of the women, who for the
most part are beautiful and courteous, is a close narrow bodice, and
from thence petticoats, as usual with us in England; but over their arms
they wear loose linen sleeves, resembling those of a bishop’s rochet.
Their head dress is low, and among those of the better sort richly
adorned with pretious stones; much resembling some old English pictures,
particularly those of _Henry_ the eighth’s wives. They likewise wear
over their shoulders the same sort of fur vest, as the men; but the
inferior sort are usually drest, when abroad, in a long and loose black
mantle, reaching from their shoulders down to the ground, and all round
gathered into deep and numberless folds, not unlike the gowns worn by
the islanders in the _Archipelago_. Maids likewise wear a black ring of
velvet on their head, which they call a crown, and resembles the figure
of an hat without brims. With regard to matrons, their law formerly
admitted no proof of adultery, unless under the eye witness of twenty
four persons at least; which in a virtuous age was an egregious testimony
to the chastity of their women, but in a vitious one must needs prove too
great an encouragment to that heinous sin. The Hungarians and Siculians
have an odd fashion of shaving their head round the lower part, and
leaving the hair at the top, which afterwards they tie into a knot, and
let it hang over one or other of their temples. This custom they might
possibly have received of old from the Sicambrians (who once built the
city _Sicambria_, and settled a colony there) since they were antiently
famed for the like manner of knotting of their hair[131]. We may further
observe a certain infelicity of Transylvania, as well as the adjoining
parts of Hungary, in persuading themselves at least, that they are
infested with witchcraft. For women of all ages are yearly executed for
that crime, and this commonly upon evidence of their having threatned
mischief to their neighbours, their children, goods, cattle, or other
effects, and some correspondent effect, which has seemed afterwards to
happen. In the Saxon seats of Transylvania they often put them to that
vulgar trial of water; and I have heard it avowed by those, who have
declared themselves to have been eye witnesses, that some suspected
persons could never sink below the surface of the water, when others
immediately subsided to the bottom[132]. And in such cases the poor
afflicted, tortured, and now perhaps distracted person, confesses the
indictment, and then without the least repreive is committed to the
faggot. But as ignorant places have been always reputed most subject to
witchcraft, this very well suits the state of Transylvania; where every
petty district is the seat of its own judicature, and the power of life
and death is consequently lodged in illiterate and superstitious persons.


June ii.

But it is now time to proceed on our journey, in which one Hungarian mile
and a half carried us to _Szekhelyhíd_, where his Excellency lodged in
the house of a popish prelate, by name _Joannes Smitz_, of the order of
the _Praemonstratenses_, a gentile and agreable person. In his parlour,
where he had an altar and crucifix, I observed over the former a profane
picture of the _Holy Trinity_, representing an _Old Man_, with his _Son_
sitting betwixt his legs, and at the son’s feet the _Holy Ghost_ in the
shape of a _dove_.


June iii.

Three Hungarian miles and a half farther brought us this day to
_Debrecyn_, thro a rich soil, not destitute of wood, nor water; the
latter of which is plentifully found in this countrey, as also in
Transylvania and Valachia, by reason of its frequent and extended lakes;
tho fountains are scarce any where to be observed. This city has lately
obtained the privilege of being _libera et regia_ from the Emperor, in
consideration of its late grievous oppressions between the Turkish and
German forces; since which, like other free cities, it is governed by its
own judge, senate, and commonalty. It is large and populous, and sets up
for the bulwark of the reformed church in Hungary; which character it
maintains by its large and well disciplined college of almost two hundred
students, under the care of two eminent professors; one of divinity,
named _Johannes Koes_, who is likewise bishop or superintendent of the
province; and the other of philosophy, whose name is _Michael Vaári_. As
this college is kept in good repair, so the students are allowed their
constant diet, and the professors receive their salary, at the sole
charge of the city. There are likewise two spatious churches, served by
three able and learned pastors, _Thomas Veresedgyhazi_, _Michael Rapoti_,
and _Stephanus Patai_. The city is likewise furnished at the public
charge with a capacious and well stored dispensary.

Before his Excellency approached this place, he was complimented by
several messengers from the mayor, who commands the militia here, then by
the judge, senators, and others; and at length by the bishop, professors,
pastors, and scholars. With this retinue his Excellency entered the
city, which was orderly lined with arms as far as his lodgings. These
were appointed for him in the house of one _Stephanus Dobozi_, a rich,
generous, and learned gentleman; who among other public designs is now
undertaking to print a new version of the Hungarian _Bible_, to be
distributed among the reformed Christians of that kingdom.


June iv.

This being _Corpus Christi_ day, his Excellency continued at _Debrecyn_;
at which time I took the opportunity of visiting the bishop, professors,
and pastors of the town, the first of whom presented me with an
handkerchief of the Hungarian fashion. I was introduced to them by one
_Paul Gyongyóssi_, who met us in this place from a neighbouring cure.
He had lately traveled into England, and resided sometime in _Glocester
Hall, Oxford_, where he was known to my brother of dear memory. But in
his return home thro _Vienna_ his books were seized, to the value of five
hundred florins, by Cardinal _Colonicza_, archbishop of _Strigonium_; on
which account he now solicited the favour and interest of his Excellency.
He presented me with the _Canones Ecclesiae Reformatae Hungariae_.


June v.

This morning the judge and magistrates of _Debrecyn_ presented his
Excellency with a gentile sword, and two small vessels of the best
_Tokái_ wine. And after traveling one Hungarian mile and a half thro a
dead extended plain, void of tree or shrub, we came to _Ujvaros_. Here I
first took notice of the Hungarian sheep, which are distinguished from
most others by their horns, which are long, straight, and twisted; also
by their wool, which is exceeding coarse.


June vi.

Three Hungarian miles thro the same level and naked plain brought us this
day to _Csege_, which is a pass over the _Tibiscus_. In our way hither
we had in view on the right hand, at the distance of about five miles,
the celebrated mountain of _Tokái_, in compass about ten Hungarian miles,
and renowned for its generous wines. At the aforesaid _Csege_ we ferry
over the _Tibiscus_ in two large flat bottomed boats, thence we travel
for some time with the river on our right hand, and then strike into the
plain to _Csat_, a large village about one Hungarian mile from _Csege_,
where we fix our quarters.


June vii.

His Excellency stayed this day at _Csat_, at which time I had some
conversation with the minister, _Stephanus Szirák_, formerly a traveler
in England. Here I took notice of the fair, white, and stately cattle of
Hungary; and walked in the feilds, to enjoy a more distinct prospect of
the mountain _Tokái_.


June viii.

We proceed one Hungarian mile and a half thro the same plain to
_Proszlo_, which is situated on a large and diffused lake, supplied by
the _Tibiscus_, into which it empties itself. In our way hither, we left
at a near distance on our right hand the city _Agria_, and the mountains
denominated from thence.


June ix.

We move one Hungarian mile and a half forward in the same plain, and at
the same distance from the mountains of _Agria_, to _Alány_. Before diner
his Excellency with a retinue went an English mile from hence, in order
to visit a new country house and garden belonging to the worthy General
_Glychensberg_; who by donation from the Emperor possesses great part of
this village, as likewise of that where we lodged last night. I had here
an occasion to observe the Hungarian houses under ground, having unawares
like to have dropt into a chimney. We took notice likewise of a _plica
Polonica_ in the hair of his Excellency’s landlord; who told us, that
it being once cut off by his wife, he became perfectly blind for three
months, and did not recover his sight, till the _plica_ was grown out and
formed again. The same thing is common to most horses in this country.


June x.

From _Alány_ we go on this day two Hungarian miles to _Arokszalles_, thro
the same plain, the soil of which is as black as coal, and in most places
overrun with weeds and marshes for want of tillage. In the midway we
cross the small river _Both_, by which is a posthouse of the same name.
_Arokszalles_ is a popish village, the first of that sort we had seen
in Hungary. It belongs to the Prince of _Newburg_, Grand Master of the
_Teutonic_ order, who has bought lately of the Emperor a large compass
of ground on both sides the _Tibiscus_ for a million of florins. From
our quarters we have in view to the right of our road, at the foot of a
pleasant tract of mountains, the city _Gyongyossi_, lately taken from
the Protestants (as they told us at _Debrecyn_) by the injuries of the
Jesuits and other Romanists.


June xi.

We continue our journey one Hungarian mile to _Hatwan_, thro the
same plain, along the foss of an antient _Roman_ camp. The hills of
_Gyongyóssi_ are still at a near distance on our right hand, in which
four Hungarian miles from _Arokszalles_ is the famous gold mine of
_Kremnytz_, with others of silver, iron, and other minerals, in the same
neighbourhood. _Hatwan_ was lately a walled city, and is now inhabited
by Romanists, being the property of the Prince of _Solmes_, grand
master to the King of the _Romans_. The Emperor constantly employs five
hundred labourers in the mines of _Kremnytz_, tho of late years they are
said to fail. At _Hatwan_, as in all Hungary, I observed the method of
burying their corn in holes under ground, as _Hirtius_ remarks of the
Africans[133].


June xii.

At _Hatwan_ we immediately cross the small river _Zagywa_, and thence
proceed one Hungarian mile and half thro a pleasant variety of woods and
pastures, valleys and hills, to _Kerepes_; where at a neat German house
his Excellency staid to breakfast, and then went forward the same length
of way thro a naked, tho not so level a plain, to _Pest_. At his entry
here he is saluted by the canon from the opposite castle of _Buda_, and
lodged at the _Fountain_ inne. _Pest_ is now a small but compact city,
intirely built out of the ruins, to which it was reduced by the two late
sieges of _Buda_. Its antient wall, with the battlements and bastions, is
still intire, and incloses it in the figure of an half moon, terminating
on the banks of the _Danube_, which completes the remaining circuit of
the city. There are still extant three or four _minarées_ of Turkish
_mosques_, now devoted to Christian use. But what gives just offence both
to Turks and Christians is a new pillar, erected in the market place, and
bearing on its top a large stone sculpture of the _Trinity_; a figure as
common, as it is scandalous, in Germany.


June xiii.

This day his Excellency remained here, which gave Mr. Paget and myself
an opportunity of passing over to _Buda_ on a flying bridge, which is
maintained by the city _Pest_. The famous city of _Buda_ is the capital
of Hungary, and was the seat of its Kings till the year fifteen hundred
twenty nine, when by treachery it fell into the hands of _Solymán_ the
_Great_; since which it was several times attempted by the Christian
arms, but never successfully, till the year sixteen hundred sixty eight.
And it yet remains in the same condition, in which that terrible siege
had left it, with regard to its fortifications; but the private houses,
especially those of the _Rascian_ and _Water Town_, are again handsomely
rebuilt. That, which is called the _Upper Town_, is likewise begining to
be reinhabited, but not equally with the other two. The situation of the
whole city lies in the following manner. From the banks of the _Danube_,
which here runs N. W. and S. E. there arises a steep and oblong hill, the
length of about half a mile, and the hight of about two hundred paces,
on which stands, what is called the _Upper Town_. This on the N. W. end
has that famous castle, which was the palace of the Hungarian Kings; and
from thence the walls and other fortifications are continued round the
town. On both ends of the hill are two small valleys, each of which has
a large suburb; that on the N. W. end called the _Rascian_, and that
on the S. E the _Water Town_. The latter of these is larger, and much
better built; and extends itself not only in the valley above mentioned,
but likewise betwixt the _Danube_ and a great part of the hill, on which
the wall and _Upper Town_ is built. Just beyond the _Rascian Town_
is a steep and sharp rocky hill, which in case of a siege must needs
annoy the castle; and along the backside of the city wall is extended,
at a nearer distance, another rising ground, which must likewise gall
that side of the fortification. These therefore the Imperialists must
possess with proper forts, whenever they undertake to repair the wall
and castle of _Buda_; the present remains of which were shewn us this
morning by the lieutenant of the ordnance, the most remarkable whereof
were these which follow. The hall of the royal palace, in which the
carved windows, chimney pieces, and other decorations, shewed the work
of an excellent hand; and were embelished, among other devises, with the
arms of _Matthias Corvinus_. The several canons, mortar pieces, bombs,
and other artillery, which make the present ammunition of the castle.
The two breaches, one entered by the Bavarians, and the other by the
Imperialists, when they took the place. The wooden gate, hewn at the
bottom by the Imperialists, which action gave the last rout to the Turks.
The stone arched chamber, which they maintained to the last; tho the
Bavarians had been many days lodged in the next adjoining apartment, and
nothing but a single wall remained betwixt the two enemies. The well and
capacious cistern, sufficient to afford water for that numerous Turkish
garrison, which at first consisted of twenty four thousand men. What else
occurs observable in this place, is first the prospect, which we took
from the _Water Town_ of old _Buda_, or _Sicambria_ of the Romans, about
an English mile from hence, up the stream of the river. And secondly, the
famous sulphureous baths, exactly opposite to the city _Pest_, which are
supplied by a plentiful hot fountain, that runs from the steep rocky hill
before mentioned in the neighbourhood of the _Rascian Town_.

At midday we were invited to diner by the administrator, or chief civil
magistrate of the place. By his office he is president of the _camera
Budensis_, which consists of twelve officers, and enjoys great revenues,
as well as an entire jurisdiction for many miles round the city. His
Imperial Majesty has about fourteen hundred men in Garrison at _Buda_
and _Pest_, under General _Pefferhoft_, who was now gone to demolish the
fortifications of _Erla_; it being the Emperor’s design to divest this
country of all its lesser forts, which at this juncture might be a refuge
to any rebellious subjects. The whole country of Hungary to this place
is a black and rich soil, without one stone to be observed, except in
towns; and abounds with lakes. The wine of _Buda_ exactly resembles that
of _Bourdeaux_, and for these two last years, by an agent of the Earl
of _Nottingham_, has began to be imported into England, by the way of
_Breslaw_.


June xiv.

Early this morning we depart from _Buda_, when his Excellency was again
saluted by the guns of the castle. Three Hungarian miles thro a rich,
woody, and well watered country bring us to _Biéske_; a village where
the Protestant are most numerous, but were nevertheless deprived of the
parish church last year by the Romanists.


June xv.

Three more Hungarian miles carry us this day to _Koes_, thro a continued
wood, wherein are observable many curious trees, herbs, and flowers,
particularly the _fraxinella_; to say nothing of the damask roses,
hyacinths, _barbaréae_, _lilia convallium_, and some others, obvious in
our whole road thro Hungary.


June xvi.

From _Koes_, where his Excellency lodged the last night, in an house
of Count _Estzerhazi_, Palatin of Hungary, it is one Hungarian mile to
_Igmand_, at which we arrive by eight a clock this morning. And one mile
from thence toward the right hand we stop to see the city and fort of
_Komora_. In a post calash we arrive on the banks of the _Danube_ by ten
a clock, and passing over in a boat enter the city, which is seated on
the point of the island _Schut_, where it is washed on one side by the
_Danube_ itself; and on the other by that branch of it, which takes the
name of _Wag_, from that river falling into it not far above the city
_Komora_. The extreme point of this island is possessed by the castle and
fort, consisting of four bastions, and an angle at the farther end, which
represents the figure of a tortoise. Before the gate and drawbridge there
is a place of arms, and before that another strait fortification with two
bastions and an half moon, added by the present Emperor. This was the
last bulwark against the Turks, before the success of the last war, and
is called the _Virgin Fort_, in token of its having never been taken by
the enemy. To perpetuate the memory of this, the statue of a virgin is
erected in one angle of that bastion, which is on the left hand at the
entrance of the place. After this view of the castle we content ourselves
with a slighter view of the town, which appears neat and compact; and by
two a clock return to his Excellency’s quarters at _Igmand_, the whole
way lying over a green, naked, and level plain. In the castle of _Komora_
I found the three following inscriptions, two of them in Latin, and the
third in Greek, which are cut upon stone coffins.

    D.         M.
    M. VAL. VALERIANI LEG.
    IIII FL. VIXIT AN. XLII
    ET M. VAL. VLPIO EQ. PV
    BL. FIL. VIXIT AN. VIII SIMV
    L CONDITIS VLPIA PARA
    TIANE MARITO ET FILIO
    ET VLPIA VALERIA FILIA
    HEREDES F. C.

    D.      M.
    MEMORIAE IVLI
    AE EMERITAE QVAE VI
    XIT AN I̶I̶I̶ VALERIA MASO
    LENIA FILIAE PIISSIMAE

    ΠΑΛΜΥΡΙ ΕΥΨΥΧΕΙ ΜΕΤΑ ΠΑΤΡΟΣ


June xvii.

Our next stage, which was three Hungarian miles, brought us from _Igmand_
to _Rab_, thro a level country, and well cultivated. Half an hour before
we enter the town, his Excellency is met by a troop of _Hussars_ well
mounted, and each man carrying a small flag in his hand. _Rab_, which is
the proper government of the Prince of _Baden_, is pleasantly seated at
the confluence of the rivers _Rab_ and _Rabnitz_, which unite near the
walls of the castle, and then in one stream immediately fall into the
_Danube_. The castle is large, and well fortified with seven bastions,
four cavaliers, and proportionable outworks. It contains within an
ample space of ground, possessed with houses, and divided into streets,
which make the best part of the city, the rest being more scattered and
diffused on both sides of the _Rabnitz_. It is now about a century,
since this place was taken from the Turks by a stratagem of Count
_Schaurtzenburg_, who applying a petard to one of the gates in the night,
at one stroke blew open the great iron door, which flew many paces within
the town, and is now kept as a memorial of the fact in the cathedral
church. The Turks marched in the sight of this garrison to the siege of
_Vienna_, and received several shot from thence; and at their return,
had the Imperialists of this place known their defeat, they might have
intercepted their passage, by cutting down the bridges of the _Rab_.


June xviii.

His Excellency staying this day at _Rab_, I took the opportunity of
visiting _Stephanus Morsai_, the reformed minister of the place. And
about ten a clock Mr. Stepney, her Majesty’s Envoy Extraordinary at
_Vienna_, with the young Earl of Bridgwater, and his brother Mr. Egerton,
came to _Rab_ to meet my Lord Paget, and welcome him into these parts.


June xix.

This day, thro frequent villages and fruitful feilds, we continue our
journey two Hungarian miles to _Hungrisch Altenburg_, a small town with
fair buildings, enclosed with a wall, and seated on the river _Leyta_,
which at the distance of half a mile falls into the _Danube_. Here Mr.
Stepney, my Lord Paget, and some others proceed directly to _Vienna_.


June xx.

Three Hungarian miles, thro a delicious and well tilled country, in
sight of _Presburg_ castle, we proceed to _Pruck_; just at the entrance
of which we cross the _Leyta_, and by that means pass out of _Hungary_
into _Austria_, of which _Pruck_ is the first town in this road. It is a
considerable compact place, neatly built with an appearing magnificence,
which they affect by building their houses high and uniform towards the
street. It has a castle and a strong wall, tho not sufficient against
the present art of war. In the market place is a pillar, that bears a
profane image of the _Trinity_, the _Father_ in the figure of an old man,
the _Son_ standing at his right hand, and the _Holy Ghost_ in the shape
of a _dove_ hovering betwixt their heads. Here is an handsome convent of
Augustin friars, and in the market place a new church not yet finished,
which promises something both beautiful and magnificent.


June xxi.

This day, being Sunday, we continue at _Pruck_, when I took an occasion
of walking by the banks of the _Leyta_, in pleasant and delightful
meadows.


June xxii.

Four German miles from hence bring us to _Schweka_, a neat village
near _Eberstorff_; where is a palace of the Emperor, and a large park,
enclosed by the _Danube_ and the _Schweka_.


June xxiii.

By three in the afternoon his Excellency moves from hence, and in an
hour and a half, at the distance of two German miles, happily arrives at
_Vienna_; where he is lodged in the suburbs, betwixt the _Caristhian_
gate and the _Favorita_, in a palace of Count _Sterembergh_. After the
repose of a day or two his Excellency had a separate audience of the
Emperor, and Empress, the Archduke _Carlo_, and the four Archdutchesses.
And being visited by most of the nobility, courtiers, and ministers of
the place, he afterwards took occasion of returning their respective
visits.

_Vienna_ is seated on a point of land, made by the confluence of the river
_Wien_ and a branch of the _Danube_, which latter here enlarges itself
about a thousand paces from its main chanel. The city is of a moderate
circumference, scarce containing more than four thousand paces within
the circuit of the walls; but round these, at a large distance, are
extended many diffused suburbs, by means of which it may be placed among
the larger cities of Europe. The fortifications are effective, regular,
and intire; a large uninterrupted glacis, a strong pale, a deep and
wide foss, a substantial curtain lined with brick, thirteen bastions,
and as many ravelins, with six well defended gates. Answerable to these
there are two arsenals within the city; one for ammunition and artillery
belonging to the Emperor, and the other for small arms belonging to
the citizens. The streets, tho few of them broad, are yet all of them
fair and moderately straight, ranged on each side with lofty houses
of four or five stories high, built with a good appearance, tho not
really magnificent; for they shew a regularity of architecture in their
windows, cornishes, and water tables, but the materials are only brick
walls incrusted in imitation of freestone. Among the buildings of the
city are interspersed several oblong piazzas, adorned with fountains,
tho of no great art or curiosity. Yet there are two squares, each of
which exhibits a considerable public monument; one being the pillar of
the _Blessed Virgin_, and the other that of the most _Holy Trinity_. The
former of these is a brass column, adorned round the four corners of
the basis with as many figures of angels, and on the chapiter bearing
a noble statue of the _Madonna_, with her feet resting on a dragon. It
was begun by the last Emperor, and finished by the present; and exhibits
four religious or superstitious inscriptions, the chief of which is a
triumphant declaration of the immaculate conception, as now confirmed by
a papal verdict, and hence forward to be received as an article of faith.
The latter pillar, called that of the _Holy Trinity_, is a magnificent
column of marble and freestone rising sixty six feet high, almost in the
form of a pyramid. It was the work of ten years, finished in 1692, at
the expence of a hundred thousand florins, and erected by the present
Emperor in commemoration of this city, and the dukedom of _Austria_,
being delivered from the plague in the year 1679. It is adorned in
three corners with these inscriptions, _Deo Patri Creatori_, _Deo Filio
Redemptori_, _Deo Spiritui Sanctificatori_; and in three other places
with larger devotions and dedications, composed by his Imperial Majesty.
From the basis it rises in continual orbs and protuberances of clouds,
surrounded with several intire angelic figures, out of which are seen
the wings and heads of others. But on the top is represented in gilt
brass the _Most Holy Trinity_: the _Holy Ghost_, as a _dove_, irradiated;
the _Son_ in an human figure, holding a cross; and the _Father_ at his
left hand, with no marks of majesty, but clothed in a loose gown, like
an old man, bearing a globe in his right hand. At the bottom is the
Emperor himself, kneeling indeed in a posture of devotion, but otherwise
represented with more marks of honour and majesty, than the _Divine
Being_ which he adores. The figure of _God the Father_ is very frequent
in Austria, and variously expressed, some times in a nightgown and cap,
and at other times with a papal crown.

The cathedral church of this place is dedicated to _St. Stephen_, and
is a stately antient building, having an high tower adorned throughout
with crotchets so strong, that it withstood several canon shot in the
late siege. It is now repaired, and bears in the work the date of that
year, which was 1683. On the spire it has a cross rising from between the
wings of the _Roman eagle_, instead of the _half moon_, which stood there
before by compact with _Solymán_ the _Magnificent_. The inside of the
church is divided into three isles, at the upper end of which are many
magnificent altars, with at least thirty more dispersed about the pillars
and other corners of the church. Near the principal of these the walls
are almost covered with pictures and sculpture, superstitiously dedicated
on occasion of so many vows there made; which I call therefore, in the
words of that ingenious heathen poet, _Tabulis sacer votivis paries_.
Over the great altar is placed the picture of the Madonna, by the name
of _Sta. Maria de Boes_, brought not long since from Hungary on occasion
of its having shed tears; of which, I saw one at _Sancta Margarita_,
who pretended to be an eye witness. The anniversary of the day it was
brought to _Vienna_, and of that, on which it wept, are celebrated by
a public feast, when the Emperor likewise hears mass on the occasion.
There is likewise another miraculous image of the _Virgin_ at the lower
north door of the cathedral, which is daily so thronged with worshipers
on their knees, that it gives offence to the bishop of this city, who
is endeavouring to suppress the picture, as well as the abuse. In this
door is a white stone, worn considerably by the touch of all that enter
there, as being thought to be one of those, with which _St. Stephen_
was martyred. Round the body of the church are frequent monuments well
carved, and some sculptures of the _History of the Gospel_, which can
scarce any where be exceeded. There is likewise a new saint, whose statue
of stone has been lately erected on all the bridges of _Vienna_. He
is styled under his picture, _S. Joannes Mepomienus, Martyr_, who was
drowned by a King of Bohemia for not discovering a confession of the
Queen.

Besides this cathedral there are four or five parochial churches,
of which the most remarkable is that of _St. Michael_; but among
such a multitude of conventual churches, and each of these furnished
with a large number of altars, the parochial are in a great measure
obscured. The most splendid convents of the place are first, that of
the Dominicans; after this the Benedictines, formerly belonging to the
_Scotch_; then two belonging to the Jesuits, of which one is called the
_Domus professa_, the other the _college_; next the Minorite Franciscans,
then the Angustines, and lastly the Capuchines. Of these the Minorite
Franciscans have in their chapel a pattern of the _Scala sancta_; the
Augustines the _Capella aulica_, and the pattern of the _Temple of
Loretto_; the Capuchines a small but pretty chapel in one side of their
church, wherein are buried the deceased of the Imperial family. The roof
of the church belonging to the college of Jesuits is now newly painted
in perspective, that is inimitable, by _P. Pozzo_ of that society; who
likewise did the celebrated perspective in the church of that society at
_Rome_.

_Vienna_ was made the seat of the Imperial family by _Ferdinand_ the
second, who translated it from _Gratz_. The imperial and royal palaces
belonging to this place are, one old one in the city, usually called the
_Bourg_; another in the suburb opposite to the Corinthian gate, called
the Favorite; a third at _Eberstorff_, two hours distant from the city;
and a fourth at _Luxemburg_, at the distance of two hours and a half.
All these are plain, but capacious and convenient buildings; and the
Emperor divides his residence betwixt them, according to the different
seasons of the year. But at _Schonbran_, about two English miles distant
from _Vienna_, is a new palace as yet in some measure unfinished; which
is built for the King of the _Romans_ after the Italian mode, adorned
in the pinacles with statues, a gentle ascent and spatious stairs up to
the entrance, beautified with a regular garden behind, and on the front
two ranges of stables and offices, that form a regular square court.
The rooms and apartments within are stately and well proportioned, and
the doors and chimney pieces richly built with Polonian marble. Besides
these, in the way to _Eberstorff_ are to be seen the stately remains of
the palace, called _Neugebac_; which was destroyed by the Turks in the
late siege, and is not yet repaired. However there appears a regular
front, consisting of proper pillars; and in some apartments of this
ruined house are kept several wild beasts of great curiosity. These, with
some others at _Schonbran_, I took an opportunity of viewing, and shall
here give a brief account of them. At _Neugebac_ are two _lions_, one
of which is about five years old, but the most stately and majestic as
can well be seen. Three _cassawares_, a species of bird without wings,
the body of the size and shape of a sheep, the legs long and thick in
proportion, the neck tall with a blue but blunt crest, the feathers black
and exactly resembling those of an ostrich. Three _tigers_, one of a
large and unusual size. Two _leopards_ well spotted, their ears short,
their head like that of a cat, but their body more approaching to a
mongrel greyhound; they are swift, and hunt hares, or other creatures,
which are thrown into their walk. Several _lynces_, nothing different (as
I am informed) from the panther; they are spotted with larger circles
than a tiger or leopard, and much resemble a wild cat, but exceed it in
size. An _hyaena_, much resembling a mastif, but the nose more round
and contracted, a large belly, and a brindled spotted skin. A _beaver_,
which is a little amphibious animal, of a flat figure, with a short neck
and legs, a soft and thick fur, and a bare tail. These which follow, are
at _Schonbran_. Several _wild goats_, the males with large horns, and
therefore by the antients called _aegoceros_. Two _ostriches_, the one
five, the other fifteen years old, the head higher than the ordinary
stature of a man, the feathers black, except on the tail and tip of the
wings, where they are milk white, the thighs perfectly bare, the legs
long and substantial, the feet divided into two broad pulpy claws, which
are thought poisonous, and in figure somewhat resembling those of a
camel, whence they are called in Latin _camelostruthi_. Two _antilopes_.
A she _elk_, a timerous animal, which is made much like an hind, with
a broad excrescent mouth. Three _uri_, in the figure of a bull, but a
thicker and shorter neck, with the appearance of prodigious strength, and
one of them, very large. But concerning these two last species a fuller
account may be seen in _Caesar_, _De B. Gall._ _Lib._ vi. _cap._ 5.

There are three libraries in this place. One is called _Bibliotheca
Windhagiana_, which belongs to the Dominican convent. Another is at the
college of Jesuits, which is larger and better collected. But the third,
which exceeds them both, and perhaps all others in these parts of the
world, is that, which belongs to the Emperor at his palace in this city.
In the Dominican library I saw a monstrous human _foetus_ kept in spirits
of wine; with another dried and stuffed, which is double in all its
parts, as having two heads, four hands, four legs, and two trunks as far
as the navel, where they unite into one body. But what I observed in the
_Caesarian_ library will deserve a more distinct relation, which I shall
give in the following particulars.

The most eminent _Greek Mss._ in the _Catalogue_ of _Nesselius_, with
other curiosities by him mentioned, and particularly the pictures
belonging to the _res vestiaria_ of the antients; all which may be seen
in the catalogue which I had there with me.

Besides what occurs in the _Nesselian Catalogue_, the antient _Ambrosian
Ms._ of part of _Livy_, which is clear and legible; tho the contrary is
asserted by Dr. _Brown_[134]. It is the oldest copy now extant of that
author, and tho it ends with _Lib._ XLV; yet there is added at the bottom
of the page, _Liber_ XLVI _incipit feliciter_, as if it was extant at
that time, which is conceived by _Lambecius_ to be about a thousand years
since.

The _Ms. German Bible_ of the Emperor _Wenceslaus_, in the margin of
which, among other curious pictures relating to the sacred story, he is
himself painted in more than fifty places, as washing in his _bagnio_,
where he was once prisoner; together with the _bagnio_ girl, who
furthered his escape, and whom afterwards he so passionately loved.

A copy of the _golden bull_, containing the constitutions of the empire
by _Charles_ the fourth, in the first year of his empire. It is now a
great curiosity, and was written for the use of the Emperor _Wenceslaus_,
but forty years after the original published at _Waremburg_ in 1356, and
still reserved at _Augsburg_.

An elegant, tho not very antient _Ms._ of _Cicero’s Orations_, with
another more antient of _Ovid’s Metamorphoses_.

The _Letter_ of the present _Tartar Han_ to the present Emperor, finely
wrote on a long roll of silk.

A printed book of the _Confucian philosophy_ in the _Sinese_ character
and language, published by the Jesuits.

A _Ms._ book of _Latin letters_, written by the present Emperor to
_Lambecius_, in a neat and elegant stile; in which he always begins
with, _Chare Lambeci_. To this is affixed the following _Epigram_ on the
present King of France by the said Emperor, attested by _Lambecius_ to
have been written by the Emperor in his presence at _Luxemburg_, 17 May
1666.

    _Bella fugis, sequeris bellas, pugnaeque repugnas,_
      _Et bellatori sunt tibi bella tori._
    _Imbelles imbellis amas, totusque videris_
      _Mars ad opus Veneris, Martis ad arma Venus._

The celebrated _Ms._ of _Jacobus Strada_, antiquary to _Maximilian_
the second, concerning antient medals; consisting of eight volumes in
this order: Vol. i. and ii. _De nummis consularibus._ Vol. iii. _De
Latinis, a Julio Caesare ad Nervum._ Vol. iv. _De iisdem, a Nervo ad
Alexandrum Severum._ Vol. v. _De iisdem, ab Alexandro Severo ad Claudium
Secundum._ Vol. vi. _De nummis Graecis a Julio Caesare ad Nervum._ Vol.
vii. _De iisdem, a Nervo ad Alexandrum Severum._ Vol. viii. _De iisdem,
ab Alexandro Severo ad triginta illos sub Gallieno tyrannos._ This
work contains a collection of fair and choice medals, all exquisitely
delineated by a pencil, each of which fills a whole page in _folio_; but
the explication added by the author shews him to have been more laborious
than learned, and discovers many notorious mistakes, as well in the
tongues, as the history, to which the medals relate.

Two fragments, one in the _Greek_, the other in the _Latin tongue_,
written on antient bark.

The case of this library is very mean, being unfurnished with seats and
benches, and divided into four or five distinct apartments, besides
another more separate from the rest, in which are kept all prohibited,
that is, controversial books in divinity, together with the small
remainder of _Matthias Corvinus’s_ library brought from _Buda_. But it
is still a greater disadvantage to this library, that since the death of
_Nesselius_ it has for two years been without a librarian, and therefore
is difficult of access, and not without a considerable fee. This defect
is attributed to the great scarcity of learned men in these parts,
especially those of the Roman faith; for which reason the two preceding
librarians, _Lambecius_ and _Nesselius_, being before Lutherans, were
obliged to renounce their faith, when they accepted that employ.

Over against the library is a long gallery, adjoining likewise to the
palace, wherein is contained the Emperor’s treasury. A noble and truly
royal collection is here of innumerable curiosities, both of art and
nature, with vast riches in silver, gold, pretious stones, and jewels.
But this likewise has the disgrace of being meanly exposed to sale, nor
is it ever shewn under the exorbitant fee of twenty five florins; however
I obtained two opportunities of viewing it, in the latter of which I took
a large and distinct catalogue of the chief rarities deposited there,
which would be too large to be here inserted.

The university of this place is a numerous society, appropriated to
several distinct nations, particularly those of the empire, and the
Emperor’s hereditary dominions; but it is remarkable for nothing but a
low contracted institution, and administered wholly by the Jesuites,
except that they refuse the office of _rector magnificus_, as being an
expensive honour. The schools are tolerable and convenient apartments,
adjoining to the Jesuits college; but the particular students are lodged
privately, as every one’s circumstances and conveniency best serve him.
But what they call the _academy_ is in its kind more flourishing than
the university; being a society instituted at the charge of the whole
province of Austria, to instruct the young gentry and nobility in riding,
fencing, dancing, the modern tongues, heraldry, history, and other polite
arts. Their riding school is a noble room; and adjoining thereto is a
stable of about forty managed horses, for the maintaining of which their
instructor in horsemanship receives ten thousand florins annually from
the public.

The present Imperial family ordinarily residing in this palace consists
of the Emperor; the Empress _Leonora_; the King and Queen of the
_Romans_; Archduke _Charles_; with the four Archdutchesses, _Marta
Elisabeth_, _Maria Anna_, _Maria Josepha_, _Maria Magdalena_. Of these
the Emperor has now passed sixty two years of his age, the King of the
_Romans_ twenty four, and the Archduke will be seventeen in October next;
the two elder of the Archdutchesses have been some time marriageable, but
the two younger are in their state of childhood. The Emperor is of a mild
disposition, and conscientiously just, except where influenced by popish
principles; he reasons solidly, has a happy memory, is both a lover and
composer of music, skilled in the Hungarian, Sclavonian, and French
tongues, and has an elegant taste of the Italian and Latin. Both he and
his Empress appear truly devout in their way, which they testify by many
instances of diffusive liberality and charity, as likewise by their
frequent walks in processions, and daily visiting and dining in religious
convents. Their garb, especially that of the Empress, is exceeding plain;
their coaches and liveries of the old fashion; and their ceremonious
dress is the habit and mode of Spain. Only they have now and then, what
they call their _Gala days_, in which there is a great resort to court,
and none appear there but in suits of gold and silver embroidery. So that
it is the wisdom of this government, which has little reason to brag of
its riches, to make this sort of luxury necessary, at a time when its
more wealthy neighbours have either by prudent choice, or wholesome laws,
wholly retrenched these superfluities. But to return to the character
of the family. The Emperor is not only devout, but even bigoted to
the Romish church, and fondly addicted to the priests, especially the
Jesuits. The King of the _Romans_ on the contrary is severely imbittered
against them, but the Archduke is inclinable to tread in his father’s
steps. The Empress will sometimes undertake pilgrimages on foot to some
famous shrine, or image, in the adjoining country; and promises herself
no doubt great benefits from that painful superstition.

The King of the _Romans_ was gone to the siege of _Landaw_ before
our arrival; but the remainder of the Imperial family I had frequent
opportunity of seeing, particularly at their supper, or the operas, which
are sometimes acted in a theatre at the _Favorite_. It is their custom
to salute the Emperor by bowing the knee. Their table is truly moderate,
and a remarkable example of temperance and parsimony. Their operas are
excessive dull, the action mean and trivial, and therefore more agreable
to the low genius and relish of this place. Another occasion, that
offered me the sight of the Emperor and the Archduke, was at a certain
sport, with which in summer time they frequently divert themselves. They
send out a large and expensive train of carts, laden with tents, canvas,
poles, and other utensils, into one of their adjoining parks. There in an
open green a tent is pitched for the Emperor and his retinue, round which
a large and long space of ground is enclosed with high rails of canvas.
When the Emperor is arrived, and ready to begin his diversion, a rank
of huntsmen sound their horns, the rails drop at one end, and the grand
_cacciatóre_ rides out with his attendants to drive in an herd of deer,
enclosed near at hand for this purpose. This done, they are forced up to
the Emperor’s tent, till at the distance of about twenty yards they stand
in a throng together. Hereupon his Imperial Majesty takes a well poised
carbine, rests it upon a fixt support, then applies a perspective glass
to the barrel, and discharges among the herd; and thus, with the help of
the Archduke, he stuns, or maims perhaps, a dozen at twice as many shots.
At length they sit down to diner, there talk over their diversion, and
give this ignoble slaughter the name of a hunt.

During my stay at _Vienna_, I had the opportunity of three accidental
but remarkable sights. The first of these was the execution of a woman
by decollation, whose head the executioner struck off, as she sat in a
chair, at one blow, levelled against the back part of her neck, with
a two handed stroke, and a broad two edged sword. At these executions
there assists, as in Italy, a number of about twenty persons, called
the _confraternity of the dead_, habited in black, with masks, broad
brimed hats, and mourning staves. They are a fixed society, composed
of citizens of the middle rank, on whom their confessors impose it, as
a piece of penance, to assist _incognito_ on these occasions. But most
remarkable was the fact and behaviour of the criminal, who was about
twenty six years of age, and in the absence of her husband, now three
years imprisoned at _Presburg_, had admitted the embraces of a young man,
whom she passionately loved, but at length discovered to be upon the
design of marrying another woman. After the most earnest but fruitless
endeavours to divert his intention, she invites him one morning to a walk
beyond the _Favorite_, and in a remote place enticing him to kiss her,
takes occasion to shoot him in the head. This done, she immediately
resigns herself to justice, reveals the whole fact, and implores her
speedy dispatch; that so she might have his company in the other world,
without whom she could not live in this. She walked with a fresh
undaunted countenance to the place of sentence, which tho before designed
and notified accordingly, yet is never formally pronounced till the time
of execution. From thence she returned to the place of her death, sat
down in the chair, and then received the stroke, without ever wavering
her body, changing her complexion, or dreading the blow she was to feel.
At these executions they often catch the blood of the criminal, as good
against the falling sickness[135].

Another ceremony that occurred, while I resided here, was the investiture
of the Duke of _Saxony_, and other inferior Princes of that circle,
now at length demanded of his Imperial Majesty, at the _Favorite_, on
the eighth of August. The five several representatives of the Elector
and other Princes kneeling before the Emperor, who was seated on a low
throne, did fealty in behalf of their respective patrons, rehearsed
their pedigrees and title to their principalities, and requested of his
Imperial Majesty to be invested in their several dignities. This being
granted to them, they then took the proper oath at the feet of the
Emperor; afterwards kissed the handle of a sword, which he held forth to
each of them; and at last retiring to their first places, there on their
knees they recognized the authority of his Imperial Majesty, and so were
dismissed.

The third solemnity was a pompous procession, undertaken to accompany the
bones of three Saints, namely, _Sancta Victoria_, _Sanctus Alexander_,
and _Sanctus Justus_, from _St. Stephen’s_ to the chapel of the Emperor’s
palace in the city. They were newly brought from Italy, where being
observed by Prince _Leichtenstein_ in his late embassy to _Rome_, and
found to have some relation to Hungary, of which two of them were
natives; they were thought proper to be transmitted to _Vienna_, and
accordingly purchased very dear, one of them standing him in no less
than four thousand florins. In this procession marched all the religious
orders, ranked in their several fraternities, except that the Jesuit
disposed themselves promiscuously among the laity. After the monks and
friars followed the meaner people, to the number of about two thousand;
then the gentry, tho in a smaller number; after them a few of the
nobility; then the Archduke and Emperor; and last of all the Empress
and Archdutchesses. Each person of this numerous train maintained a
decent gravity, except the Archbishop of _Vienna_, who being dressed in
his episcopal robes and mitre walked like a horse in gaudy trappings,
flinging about his legs, surveying his rich vestments, and looking up to
the ladies and other spectators, who admired him from the windows, under
which he passed.


August xxvii.

This day I went in a calash, together with Mr. Montague and Mr.
_Gaugain_, to _Petronel_, a village on the _Danube_, about twenty
four English miles from _Vienna_, seated in the place of the antient
_Carnuntum_, where _M. Antoninus_ held his capital quarters to bridle
the _Marcomanni_ for the space of three years, and then retiring on
account of his indisposition to _Vindobona_ died there. While we were
on the road, I was entertained by those gentlemen, with a relation of
what they had seen the day before. Count _Sherradin_ of _Bohemia_ had
several times shot a pistol bullet into a mark of the size of a florin,
at the distance of forty yards. And at this he is said to be so expert,
that his pages will venture to hold a florin between their thumb and
forefinger, which he dextrously uses to strike without hurting them.
The like is sometimes practised by the present King of _Poland_, tho he
once broke the fingers of a page in making the experiment. We here saw
the remains of a triumphal arch, the _fornix_ of which is yet intire;
erected, as is thought by _Nesselius_ and _Lambecius_, on occasion of
that _Pannonian_ expedition of _Tiberius_, which is so much celebrated
by _Paterculus_[136]. The inhabitants here shewed us various Roman
coins, tho none of any noted value. The village now belongs to Count
_Traun_, who is descended from _Babo_, count of _Abensberg_, who had
forty children by two lawful wives; thirty two of which, being sons,
were presented by him to the Emperor, _Henry_ the second, who prefered
them all. Count _Traun_ has here a stately palace, called the _Castle_,
where we saw the story of the thirty two sons of Count _Babo_ painted at
large[137]. The house is moted round, as is usual all over this country.
In the inside is a noble hall, well painted in the roof, and at the
entrance of the gate is fixt an antient Latin inscription, which I have
here transcribed.

    SILVANAB. ET
    QVADRIBIS[138] AVG. SACRVM
    C. ANTONINVS VALENTINVS
    VET. LEG. XIIII. G. MVRVM A FV
    NDAMENTIS CVM SVO INT
    ROITO ET PORTICVM CVM
    ACCVBITO VETVSTATE CONLA
    BSVM IMPENDIO SVO RESTITV
    IT GENTIANO ET BASSO COS.


August xxix.

His Excellency with his whole family retired this day from _Vienna_ to
_Baden_, a small town, yet enclosed with an old wall, and celebrated
for its baths, which are of pure sulphur. They rise in several places
about the town, without any mixture of steel or other mineral, and are
there collected into several square cisterns railed about with wood;
where people of different quality bathe in distinct bagnios, and in some
cases with good success. The town is seated four hours from _Vienna_, at
the foot of the hills, which I take to be the _Pannonian Alps_. In this
place Mr. Paget and I used the constant exercise of walking morning and
evening, where I experienced a happy restoration of my health, once much
debilitated in Turkey. _Gloria in excelsis Deo!_


September xxv.

His Excellency now sent Mr. Paget and myself to see the castle of
_Luxemburg_, situated in the way betwixt _Baden_ and _Vienna_. It is a
mean building, in the form of a small quadrangle, and moted round. I
observed several curious pictures in it, one particularly fine of the
_seven liberal sciences_, in the dining room of the Emperor; another
of the present _King of France_, when about four years of age; a third
of _Charles the fifth_; a fourth of _Matthias Corvinus_ and his father
_Huniades_. The dining room is observable for an accident of thunder,
which, while the Emperor and his family were at diner, entered the room
at one quarter, passed in a semicircle about the table, and made its way
thro the opposite wall with great explosion; while the Emperor remained
in his seat with a remarkable calmness and serenity of mind. Adjoining to
this building is a delightful park enclosed with pales; and nearer to the
house a thick grove of elm and oak, in which is a long walk, and avenues
so cut, as to resemble all the streets of _Vienna_.


September xxix.

This day Mr. Paget and I by the direction of his Excellency went to see
a glass house, newly erected in the hills adjoining to this place, at
the distance of about three hours. Our way thither lay thro a delicious
vale, which conveys a small river, is graced with green meadows on each
side, and above these with rising hills, adorned with a variety of trees,
but particularly pines and firs. I here observed the several curiosities
of that art and manufacture, which, tho frequent in England, I had never
before seen. Returning home we stept a little to the left hand, to visit
a convent of _Cistercian_ monks, by the name of _St. Cross_, founded
in the year 1131, by _St. Leopold_, Marquess of _Austria_. During the
late siege of _Vienna_ it was burnt by the Tartars (the common fate
of all this country for thirty or forty Holland miles round _Vienna_)
but soon after rebuilt by its own abbot, _Clement Scheffer_, in a more
stately and splendid manner. Here reside an abbot, a prior, and about
sixty monks, all royally maintained by noble revenues belonging to the
monastery. They are neatly and gentilely dressed, lodged in pleasant
chambers, have their public appartments alike magnificent, a fine garden,
and prospects beautified with vistos and avenues cut in the adjoining
woods. The abbot was then absent, but the prior and librarian treated us
at supper, where we were served with seven or eight dishes, the best old
wines, and conversation far from monkish. The librarian particularly was
pleased to ridicule the custom of signing all the doors of this country
with C. M. B. which the people fondly esteem a charm against fire and
thievery; but he, as he said, instead of _Cuspar Malcheir Bulkasar_, was
wont to interpret these letters _Cax Mundus Beelzebub_. At the same time
I could not but be highly offended at a certain jocular freedom, with
which he treated the _Holy Scripture_, saying with a profane mirth, when
he delivered to us a glass of wine, _Transeat a me calix iste_; and when
he had tossed off his own, _Consummatum est_. In truth we here saw not
any token of popish zeal or superstition, as is usual in other places,
no crucifixes, or images of the _Trinity_, _Virgin_, and the like; but
instead of these, the whole Imperial family excellently well painted,
and these in rooms, which for grandeur exceeded any, that the Emperor is
master of in his palaces about _Vienna_. Here they favoured us with a
lodging after a gentile and candid entertainment, and dismissed us in the
like manner by eight a clock the next morning. Their library was mean,
but the case very neat; tho the library had been much larger before the
destruction by the Tartars. However I saw here a good Latin _Ms._ of
the _New Testament_, without the _Epistles_ of _St. Peter_, _James_, or
_John_; and the _Apocalypse_ placed immediately after _St. John’s Gospel_.


October iv.

My Lord and his family now returned from _Baden_ to _Vienna_, where he
lodged within the city in the house of _C. Stratman_, at the rate of five
hundred florins a month. At _Baden_ I was able to observe nothing, except
some small matters relating to country affairs. As their way of making
wine in the field, where they mash the grapes in broad open tubs, and tun
it into large casks, as they lie in the cart. The manner of enclosing
their vineyards with high poles joined at the top, and burnt at bottom
to secure them from corrupting by the moisture of the ground. The manner
of drawing sometimes with asses, and at other times with oxen, joining
the harness to their horns without the use of yokes. I observed likewise
their custom of calling a public officer upon the death of any animal;
before which they dare not touch the carcass, he only being impowered
to carry it away to a certain place, and there flea it, for which he
receives three florins. This officer is called the _hound slayer_,
because twice a year he is obliged to kill all the dogs both in town and
country, that are found without a collar, which is thought an institution
against spreading of infectious diseases.


October v.

This day I waited upon Mr. Stepney, who among other papers from England
shewed me that traiterous Epigram, written in praise of _Sorrel_, or the
horse, from which his late Majesty received his fatal fall.


October xxv.

There was brought to his Excellency’s house a male child, seven years
of age, born at _Rigetsch_, three miles and a half from _Papa_, of a
beautiful countenance, but without legs or thighs; and the left hand
deformed, but the right intire. It walks, and raises itself with ease,
while its trunk supplies the use of one leg, and the right hand that of
the other. The hips terminate in a round figure, not unlike a woman’s
breasts, and have in the middle an excrescence exactly resembling a large
nipple. The child is healthy and lively, and from the crown of the head
to the extremity of the trunk is three palms and a half long.

I had now, in company of several English gentlemen, an opportunity of
seeing the Emperor’s collection of pictures, which is exposed at the
price of twelve florins. It consists of three long galleries, with four
or five large and square chambers. The whole number of pieces amounts
to a thousand six hundred and sixty three, performed by the best hands
of Europe, particularly these which follow: _Albert Durer_, _Anton.
Correggio_, _Bassan_, _Palma_ senior and junior, _Prugel_ senior and
junior, _Paul Veronese_, _Bronzini_, _Franck_ senior, _Paduanino_, _Jo.
Bellino_, _Poussin_, _Gerome Poss_, _Portononi_, _Spagnoletto_, _Raphael
Sancio_, _Giorgioni_, _Titian_, _Tintoretto_, _Van Ach_, _Holbein_,
_Rubens_, _Van Dick_, _John de Heem_, _Pauditz_, and others. Among these
there was one piece of _Raphael_, which seemed to excel the rest, being
_a saint holding a crucifix_, which belonged to the cabinet of King
_Charles_ the first of England, and was sold by _Oliver_ to this court
for twelve thousand florins. Besides this collection of pictures, there
is another set of rarities, preserved in a cabinet at one end of the
third gallery, and consisting of _intaglios_ and _cameos_; among which is
a large head of _Domitian_ in agate; a series of gold medals, and among
them two of _Otho_, to which is added a _Pisennius Niger_ in silver of
the third size. In the same cabinet are several small statues of brass
and stone, among the rest those of _Venus_ and _Hercules_; and likewise
several antient busts, particularly of _Plato_ and _Aristotle_; with
divers sepulchral lamps, urns, and other remains of antiquity. To say
nothing of the curiosities found in the tomb of _Childeric_ the first by
_Leopold William_, Archduke of _Austria_, and uncle to this Emperor, at
_Tournay_ in the year 1657. Among these are some remarkable gold coins of
that time, with the repeated emblem of flies or bees, the wings of which
at a distance give the figure of a _flower de lys_, and are supposed to
be the real arms of France, tho this resemblance has occasioned their
being mistaken for that flower. But more especially is to be remembred
the order of antient busts ranged on one side of the three galleries,
among which are several heads of _Emperors_, and _Satyrs_, with one of
_Socrates_; as likewise an intire figure of _Magna Mater turrita_, with
a _lion_ under her chair, a _tympanum_ in her left hand, and _patina_ in
her right; which cost this court a thousand florins at _Rome_.


November iii.

I went to visit Mr. _C. Boét_, a famous painter in enamel, who had
a salary from his late Majesty, whose picture, with those of other
confederate Princes, drawn by him he now shewed me. But that which is
most remarkable, he is at present working for this court the largest
piece, that ever was known in enamel, being an oval of eighteen inches
by fifteen; which contains the figures of the Emperor and Empress, King
and Queen of the _Romans_, with the Archduke, the four Archdutchesses,
and the two young Daughters of the King of the _Romans_. He was sent
for hither by his late Majesty on purpose for this work, for which when
finished he is by compact to receive four thousand ducats of gold. The
materials of it are a copper plate covered with a white enamel, which
being hardened in the fire, is afterwards painted over in colours of a
peculiar composition, with oil of lavender and rosemary; and then again
put into the fire to receive a gloss, and additional hardness; after
which it is liable to no accident, but that of breaking. It may be
observed, that all the red colours in this work are made of gold.


November vi.

This day by order of his Excellency I waited on the two young _Messieurs
Olmeus_ and others, in order to see the Emperor’s treasury the third
time, and thereby perfected my catalogue of those rarities. And his
Excellency being then preparing for his departure, the Emperor presented
him with six thousand dollars.


November viii.

His Excellency with his retinue now set forward from _Vienna_ towards
_Holland_, and proceed two german miles to _Entzersdorff_. A little
before the midway we cross the _Danube_ over a wooden bridge four hundred
paces in length, and continue near the banks of the river to the above
mentioned town. And as we continued there the following day, I walked
down to the banks of the _Danube_, where it flows under the castle of
_St. Leopold_, near _Cloyster Newburg_, and in the extreme point of _Mons
Cetius_.


November x.

This day we proceed two German miles and a half further to _Stockeran_,
and there meet C. _Schlick_, Mr. Stepney, Mr. Montague, and Mr.
_Gangain_, with whom we proceed three miles and a half further to our
lodgings at _Holibrun_. And from thence his Excellency, with the said
company, the next morning goes out an hour to Count _Sereny’s_, there to
wait on the King of the _Romans_, now returning from the campaign on the
_Rhine_. By one a clock the King and Queen arrived at the Count’s, where
his Excellency had an audience of both their Majesties; after which they
sat down to table, and his Excellency and company dined with the court,
and afterwards returned to _Holibrun_.


November xii.

This day we advance about five miles further in _Austria_, and then
crossing the _Teya_ enter into _Moravia_, now called _Makren_, and take
up our quarters at _Znaim_, the _Medoslanium_ of Ptolemy. This is a fair
and fortified town, tho of the old fashion, upon the river _Teya_, which
runs hence into the _Morawa_, antiently the _Marus_, and with that into
the _Danube_. In the year 1645 this town was taken and pillaged by the
Swedes. It has two market places, in each of which is a good fountain;
and in one of them the image of the _Virgin_, erected on a fair pillar,
and inscribed with a new sort of _Gloria Patri_, that is, LAVS DEO,
MARIAEQVE VIRGINI, SANCTISQUE SVIS. There are likewise several convents,
of Capuchines, Dominicans, Jesuits, and Premonstratensians; and it is
remarkable for excellent endive.


November xiii.

We stay this day at _Znaim_, and the day following proceed three German
miles to _Budwitz_, thro pleasant woods of fir, with fertile open
feilds. And moving from thence the next morning, three more German miles
carry us thro _Babitz_ and _Drumna_ to _Pernitz_, by a pleasant way,
thro a country sometimes open and well tilled; and at other times thro
delightful woods of pine or fir, intermixt with juniper and a few birch;
but scarce any other shrubs or trees in the whole country. At _Pernitz_
is a convent of _Paulins_, so called from _Sto. Francisco di Paula_, a
strict order, that eats no flesh nor fish throughout the year. In this
place live several Jews, who are bound to wear blue ruffs, as a mark of
distinction.


November xvi.

Two German miles thro woods of fir and arable ground bring us to _Iglaw_.
This city, reasonably well fortified, has a large and clean market place,
round which the houses have false fronts, and are handsomely painted
on the outside with pleasant landskips or histories. At the upper end
of it is a statue of the _Virgin_ on a column, like that at _Znaim_;
both seeming to be an imitation of that at _Vienna_. We bait an hour at
_Iglaw_, and then pass on one German mile to a small village, called
_Steken_. But immediately beyond the wall of _Iglaw_ we pass a river of
the same name, and there enter into _Bohemia_, whence we continue our
way over a large lake, with a road cast up betwixt the two branches of
it, and delicate woods of fir adorning its banks. This wood is of large
extent, and seems to be a continuation of the _Sylva Hercynia_ in this
country, now called _Behemerwaldt_.


November xvii.

We stay this day at _Steken_, where I had leisure to observe in general
concerning _Moravia_, that the country is fertile and well tilled, except
where it is overrun with pine or fir woods. The people are all slaves
to the lords of the several mansions; but this extends only to their
labour, not the property of their gain. The language of the place is
_Behemish_, a dialect of the _Sclavonian_; but at inns and other public
houses they ordinarily speak _Tuysech_. The government it divided into
five districts, of which there are as many captains, but the command of
the whole province is committed by the Emperor to Count _Thorn_. The
river _Morawa_ is likewise called _Mark_ by the Germans; which latter
name seems to relate to the antient inhabitants, the _Marcomanni_ (who
with the _Quadi_ were here settled) as the former name does to the
_Moravians_. Through the whole extent of the country we frequent meet
with large lakes, at the distance perhaps of an English mile.


November xviii.

This day we proceed one mile and a half to _Tuytschenbrodt_, an old
fortification on the river _Sazawa_, and from thence two miles to
_Habern_, in a wood on the right hand. _Tuytschenbrodt_ was the place,
where General _Zeiska_ beat the Emperor _Sigismund_, and by that defeat
drove him out of Bohemia.


November xix.

One mile brings us this day to _Janikaw_, and two more from thence to
_Czaslaw_; the place where _Ferdinand_ the second narrowly escaped being
assassinated by an Italian, hid for that purpose in an oven. Half a mile
farther carries us to a small hamlet, called _Wasser Cratz_. Of these
towns _Janikaw_ is the place, where the battle was fought betwixt the
Swedes and Imperialists in 1645; and _Czaslaw_, where General _Zeiska_
lies buried.


November xx.

From _Wasser Cratz_ we proceed one quarter of a German mile, and then
having the city of _Kuttenberg_ on our left hand, a little farther in
the road we pass by two Imperial mines, where they are now at work, and
dig up a mixt oar, consisting of copper, lead, and silver, a specimen of
which they then shewed us. At one mile and a half from our last lodging
we come to _Kottin_, and there breakfast. Then proceeding another mile
and a half, we arrive at _Blanyan_. From _Kottin_ flows the river _Elb_,
which takes its name about five miles below that place, and is there
scarce navigable. As we travel, we keep it in sight on the right hand,
and the woods still on the left.


November XXI.

Two miles and a half from _Branyan_ carry us to _Oval_, thro an open
arable country, with a continued tract of woods on our left hand. In the
midway we bait at the poor town of _Bohaimsbrodt_. But the day following
for two miles and a half we pass thro a pleasant grove of birch and pine,
and afterwards thro open ploughed feilds to _Prague_.


November xxiii.

His Excellency staying this day at _Prague_, I took that opportunity of
viewing every thing I could of that noble city, which is thought to be
the largest in Germany. It is inclosed with one intire wall, two third
parts of which are regularly divided into curtains and bastions; but the
remaining third is old and defenceless. Tho indeed the whole town is
commanded by ascending ground, that no fortification can make it long
defensible. The _Muldaw_, a large and rapid river, divides it into two
parts, which are again joined by a fair and stately bridge of stone,
seventeen hundred feet long and thirty five broad, supported by twenty
four arches. Both parts of the city are adorned with great variety of
magnificent buildings, the most remarkable of which I visited in this
order.

Adjoining to the _Star_ inn, where his Excellency lodged, is the new
convent of Irish _Cordeliers_; and in the same neighbourhood are two
seminaries, one called that of the _Archbishop_, and the other that of
_St. Norbert_, patron of this kingdom; both which profess academical
learning, but in societies distinct from the university of the place.

Hence the way leads us to the townhouse, a large and stately building,
which at one corner has a piece of clock work, giving the motions of the
seven planets. On one side of this opens a fair piazza, with two curious
pieces of workmanship. The first of these is a statue of the _B. Virgin_
trampling on the _Dragon_, erected on a stone pillar, on the pedestal
of which are four _Angels_ defeating the like venomous monsters. This
implies a triumphant declaration of her immaculate conception, and
imitates that work before observed at _Vienna_. The second curiosity is a
fountain of carved marble, with a basin of twelve sides, on which are cut
very beautifully the twelve signs of the _Zodiac_.

From hence we pass to a college of Jesuits, a noble and spatious
building. The church is a fine fabric, and prodigiously rich; the
cloister large, and adorned with agreable pictures; among the rest are
large tables divided into little squares, containing the short history
and pourtraiture of the eminent persons of their order for preaching,
missions, and conversions, among whom are a great number of English.

The same way leads us to the bridge above mentioned, and thence to
another college of the Jesuits; but the third, and most splendid of this
order, is in that part of _Prague_ called the new city, which we had not
an opportunity of seeing.

We now turn to the right hand, and in an eminent part of the city are
brought to the Emperor’s palace, old and irregular in outward appearance,
but within its precincts is the old cathedral church, an handsome Gothic
building of the year 923, as appears by an inscription on the chief
altar. The stateliness of the old architecture, with the richness as well
as beauty of the modern ornaments, make it a venerable pile. They have
here a picture of the _Virgin_, which is pretended to be of _St. Luke’s_
hand. At the gate entering into this palace there is another in sight,
which is the residence of the Archbishop.

From the cathedral we are carried to the _Capuchin_ cloister, which
consists of a small but most beautiful quadrangle. Round the four
sides, under a fair portico, are painted thirty different copies of
so many of the most eminent and miraculous images of the _Virgin_,
each in the proper garb, posture, and colours of the originals; and
the remaining space of the wall beneath is filled with votive tables,
in acknowledgement of favours received from each picture. I thought
this collection observable, in that it is an apparent instance of the
different representations of the _B. Virgin_, who is not invoked under
the same character in all places, and on all occasions; but according
to the fancy of the first painters, and the superstition of the late
devotees, is split into so many distinct objects of worship; as the Lady
_de Victoria_, _de Litera_, _de Consilio_, _Crysostomiana_, _Cyrilliana_,
_Bernardina_, _Lauretana_, _Eremitana_, _Cellensis_, _Passaviensis_,
_Wranoviensis_, _Hallensis_. As this shews how polytheism crept in among
the heathen, who first of all worshiped God under so many distinct
attributes, and afterwards as so many distinct beings; so it argues
greater superstition in the church of Rome: for instead of the several
characters of _Venus_, as _Cypria_, _Cytherea_, _Victrix_, and others; or
of _Diana_, as _Aricinia_, _Leucophryne_, _Taurica_[139]; we have many
more of _Sta. Maria_. In the middle of this quadrangle is an handsome
imitation of the chapel of _Loretto_ with the _Virgin_ and our _Savior_
above the altar in the complection of _Moors_; and on the outside walls
are various religious stories elegantly represented.

From hence we proceed to the celebrated cloister of Premonstratensians,
called the _Shawhoff_ in which above an hundred persons are maintained
in a princely manner. I was here shewn a rich chapel, wherein before the
incursion of the Swedes were many large and curious statues of solid
brass, particularly those of the twelve _Apostles_; which by Count
_Koningsmarck_ were converted into canon, when he took this part of the
city, tho he was soon again repulsed. In the middle of the church, in
a stately open monument, is preserved the body of _St. Norbert_, the
founder of this order. Over the tomb is suspended a gilt crown of a
prodigious size, the diameter of the rimb being at least three ells.
After the chapel I saw their library, which is neat and well filled,
but with books in the taste of the last age. They have here a monkish
contrivance of a wheeling desk with six sides, on each of which may lie
several books, so as to be turned round in their order, without falling
off in the motion. From the library we passed to their private chapel,
wherein is a crucifix, which the monk, who shewed it us, attested to have
seen illuminated in the night, while no candle was in the room. In an
adjoining gallery is a large statue of our _Savior_, which they affirm to
have once sweat blood about the neck, and shew the marks thereof still
remaining. From hence we are carried to their winter refectory, a large
and regular stove room, well contrived for warmth and beauty at the same
time. But their summer refectory is a pattern of beauty, proportion,
and magnificence, being paved with black and white marble, with three
large windows on one side, and round the walls about twelve large
pictures of eminent persons of their order; and the whole is exceedingly
well contrived, both for the entertainment of the mind, and repose of
the body. They shewed us likewise another large room, with a numerous
collection of their most meritorious members in little squares; and last
of all the chambers of the monks, with two adjoining gardens, one for the
fathers, the other for the brethren of the society, which completed the
pleasure of the sight.

Next to this convent we went to see a Jewish synagogue, of which there
are eight in this place, the number of that nation amounting to above ten
thousand, who for distinction sake are all obliged to wear a blue ruff.

On the stately bridge over the _Muldaw_ are to be observed several
curious statues of the _Virgin_; of our _Savior_; and of the new _Saint_
lately set up in all parts of this kingdom, as well as on all the bridges
of _Vienna_, being a curious piece of cast brass with this inscription:

    DIVO IOANNI NEPOMENENO ANNO MCCCLXXXIII
    AB HOC PONTE DEIECTO EREXIT MATTHIAS L. B.
    DE WVNESWITZ ANNO MDCLXXXIII.

He was here drowned for not revealing to the King of Bohemia a confession
of his Queen.

The famous university of this place, which in the time of _John Huss_
consisted of forty thousand students, is not even now so far diminished,
but that when they have occasion to assault the Jews, or other citizens,
they can muster about twelve thousand. They consist of young persons,
not collected into regular societies, as with us, but lodging in private
houses, from whence they repair to the public schools at the appointed
hours of lecture. There are three of these schools, one in each part of
the city, where all academical learning is professed by the ablest of the
Jesuits; for these have the sole direction of the university, and are
the only rich prevailing persons in Bohemia, particularly in the capital
city, where they amount to the number of a thousand.


November xxiv.

This day we leave _Prague_, and proceed four miles, thro an open ploughed
country, to _Sloney_. In the way we receive the confirmation of the
good news, which we first heard at _Iglaw_; that seventeen Spanish
galleons in the port of _Vigo_ were fallen under the power of our grand
fleet, eleven being taken, and six sunk; and that the whole squadron of
_Chateaurenault_, being twenty nine men of war, were either sunk or taken.


November xxv.

His Excellency continues yet at _Sloney_, a small but walled town, with
a large market place, as usual in these parts. It was formerly a seat
of protestants, and therefore barbarously destroyed by _Ferdinand_ the
third. The day following we intend for _Launa_, three miles from hence;
but the place being taken up for the quarters of five thousand Saxon
soldiers, now moving against Bavaria, we lodge at _Clamston_, half an
hour short of it; where we continue two days, by reason of a great
quantity of snow, which then fell.


November xxix.

Leaving _Clamston_, at the distance of one quarter of a German mile we
pass under the walls of _Launa_, and there cross the _Egra_ by a long
wooden bridge, covered with a penthouse, as is usual in this country.
From thence we come to _Bitin_, the estate of Prince _Lobcowitz_, where
we bait one hour; and from thence proceed to _Deplitz_, the estate and
seat of Count _Clery_, remarkable for an hot bath.


November xxx.

His Excellency from hence designed the straight road, by the way of
_Framstein_, _Friburg_ (where are silver mines, and the tombs of the
electors of Saxony) _Waltheim_, _Coldick_, _Walcowitz_, and so to
_Leipsick_. In the mean time he permitted me to quit his retinue, in
order to see _Dresden_. With this intent I take a post waggon from
_Deplitz_ to _Peterswaldt_, the distance of two miles, in which I pass
the hill of _Kaiasberg_. From _Peterswaldt_ I take a new post, and soon
after I have left the town pass the boundary of _Bohemia_ and _Saxony_;
and at two miles end changing post at a little village not far from
_Pirn_, by this third post I come under its walls, and presently am upon
the banks of the _Elbe_, along which I ride about half an hour, and then
quitting the river arrive about five a clock at _Dresden_, being in all
six miles from _Deplitz_. It being now dark, I repair immediately to my
lodgings at the house of one _Leonard Serert_, betwixt the two market
places, a civil host, who spoke both French and Italian. The way from
_Peterswaldt_ to _Dresden_ is very agreable, being interspersed with
woods of fir. The villages are better built, and more populous, than
those of _Bohemia_; where indeed neither towns nor villages are thin,
but the people very few, and those dejected with a sense of poverty and
slavery, occasioned partly by the tyranny of the church, and partly by
the constitution of the government, which makes the peasants slaves to
their Lords, as in _Moravia_.


December i.

I continue at _Dresden_ this and the three following days, to observe the
curiosities of the place. It is a neat well built town, with straight
and fair streets, compact but not large, enclosed within a regular
fortification, and a deep foss constantly filled with water. It stands
upon the _Elbe_, over which it has a noble bridge, almost as long as that
of _Prague_, supported by eighteen arches, and on each side affording
a delightful prospect along the bending chanel of the water. By this
bridge the city is joined to a neat suburb, called _Old Dresden_, the
residence chiefly of merchants, among whom I found two Englishmen, Mr.
Northleigh and Mr. Dealing, by both whom I was kindly treated. _Dresden_
was always the residence of the Electors of Saxony, till this present
Elector was chosen King of _Poland_. However it is the ordinary seat
both of the Electress, and the Prince, who is six years old; but both
of them happened to be absent now. The Deputy of the Elector is the
Prince of _Furstemberg_, who is of the Popish religion, but the whole
town is intirely Lutheran. They have three churches, _St. Cross_, _Sta.
Sophia_, and the chapel of the court. _St. Cross_ is a large antient
Gothic building, well adorned in the inside, particularly with a carved
and stately altar. The number of ministers is about twelve, whose revenue
is very small, and therefore the people here complain, that they make
up that defect by the abuses of confession. The palace is a fair stone
building, consisting of two courts, of which the first is large and
regular, adorned both within and without with very good carving, and
painting in _fresco_, which deserves regard, particularly one part of it
that fronts the street, and represents a _Roman triumph_. The gardens
are likewise curious, and the riding school is remarkably spatious; but
what obscures every thing else in _Dresden_, and perhaps all others of
the same kind in Germany, is the _kunstkammer_, with the arsenal, and
stable of the Elector. Each of these are shewn to strangers at the price
of three florins, the curiosities of which I reduced into a catalogue.
On the bridge at _Dresden_ is erected a curious brass _crucifix_, not
inferior to that of _Prague_ in the workmanship, but far exceeding it
in design, and bearing an inscription, that disavows all superstitious
worship.


December iv.

At six a clock this evening, it being then very dark, I take a passage
in the ordinary post chaise for _Leipsick_, paying four florins for the
space of thirteen German miles. By ten at night we come to _Misten_,
and there cross the _Elbe_ over a large covered bridge. The benefit of
the star light gives me opportunity to observe some part of the town,
particularly the castle seated on very high ground. Hence we continue our
journey all night, till about ten a clock the next morning we come to
_Wurzen_, where we dine; and then ferrying over the _Muldaw_, now a large
and rapid river, after having endured a cold and severe snow all the day,
we arrive at _Leipsick_ about five a clock in the afternoon, where I
provide myself with a private lodging.


December vi.

This morning his Excellency and his retinue arrive at _Leipsick_ by
eleven a clock, and lodge at the _Golden hen_ in the high street, to
which place I therefore now remove myself.

_Leipsick_ is a neat and compact place, well built, the streets almost
straight, and conveniently wide. The market place is a regular
quadrangle, surrounded with fair and lofty houses, among which is the
town hall, or court of justice. Not far from the market is another small
square, at one end of which is a new and spatious room, to which we
ascend by stone steps. This serves for an exchange, where the merchants
meet. The city has three large churches, one of _St. Nicholas_, another
of _St. Thomas_, and a third called the _New Church_. These are all
well beautified within, especially that of _St. Nicholas_, the altar
of which is a neat pile, representing in good sculpture the burial and
resurrection of our _Savior_, his shewing his wounds to _St. Thomas_ and
the other disciples, and over the whole his ascension in a cloud. At
the upper end of the two outward isles are painted two good pieces of
perspective. The town has no public buildings, besides an old castle,
and a new hospital; the latter of which serves both for the reception of
lunatics, and also a house of correction for vagabonds. The fortification
is regular, and of the new fashion, but not of any great importance;
however it has a foss, that may be filled with water upon occasion from
the _Pleiss_, which washes the walls of the city.

The town is governed by a senate of twenty three, of whom three, called
_Burgomasters_, have the prime authority; and by a chief magistrate, who
has the title of _consul_, and is chosen annually. The present consul is
one _Romanus_, a young gentleman of great fortune, and vast designs; who
is erecting a noble palace in the city, built of free stone. Among the
senators are several persons of quality, who have fair estates, and a
learned education.

There is a good library belonging to the city, lately purchased at
the expence of the senators, and which they daily improve by new
accessions. Among the citizens of this rank and character I contracted
an acquaintance with Mr. _Wagner_, who speaks good English, and has been
long preparing a comment on the obscurities of Barclay’s _Euphormio_,
concerning which he has commissioned me to make several enquiries.
Another person of the like learning and civility is Mr. _Graevius_
(brother to the eminent critic in Holland) who has the care of the
city library, and favoured me with the sight of it. These with many
other particulars, that might be mentioned, are arguments of a rich
and flourishing city; which is occasioned partly from the confluence
of students to the university; and partly from the benefit of three
celebrated fairs of fourteen days each, which are annually kept here, and
furnished with merchandizes of all sorts, not only from the several parts
of Germany, but likewise from Italy, Hungary, France, Holland, England,
and other countries.

The staple commodities of the town are the linen manufacture, and a
natural blue earth, which is dug only in some metalic mines of Saxony,
and which to the vast advantage of this place is exported from hence
to England, Holland, and elsewhere, for the use of dying. As to the
execution of justice, adultery is here a capital crime, but in this case
the criminal must be convicted by his own confession, to which they
oblige him by force of torture. The beauty of the city, which appears
to a good advantage by day light, is however not lost in the night, by
means of their new lamps, which are ranged in an orderly manner, stand
very close to each other, and are kept with great neatness. The gardens
of the principal gentlemen, and merchants here resident, are without the
fortifications; and being as well exceeding rich, as beautified with
great art, add a noble ornament to the place.

The university is in a flourishing state, and has a true taste of polite
literature, especially as to philosophical studies. Tho I know not
whether they merit that character with regard to classical learning. It
is not now so numerous as formerly; because _Hall_, which within these
ten years has been erected into an university by the King of _Prussia_,
depriving them of their numbers, has reduced them perhaps from three
to one thousand students. They have six colleges, called _Paulinum_,
_Petrinum_, _Majorum_ and _Minorum Principum_, _Rubrum_, and _B. Mariae
Virginis_. Each of these have their _praepositus_, and some few stipends.
But when we mention academical colleges abroad, we must fall much below
the idea of those, with which we are so happily acquainted at _Oxford_
and _Cambridge_. In these colleges are their auditories, or schools,
of public lectures for philosophy, and the three superior faculties.
These are regularly taught by their respective professors, of which
the university is furnished with six in divinity, five in law, four in
physic, and nine in philosophy, humanity, and history. Besides these,
several of the more eminent doctors, and elder students, have their
private lectures, to which the younger resort at their pleasure, and
this with greater frequency and better success, than to the lectures
publicly established. The degrees in philosophy are that of batchelor and
master of arts; in the faculties, of licentiate and doctor. Persons of
note in the university, whom I visited, were Dr. _Efficke_ professor of
divinity; and Dr. _Otto Menchenius_ professor of moral philosophy, who
is likewise the editor of the _Acta Eruditorum_, of which I purchased
an intire set from the year 1682 to this present time, consisting of
twenty five volumes in _quarto_. Other eminent persons, with whom I
had a more frequent conversation, were Dr. _Goëtze_, Dr. _Menchenius
junior_, and Mr. _Olearius junior_. The two former are doctors of law,
and the latter professor of humanity. To these I may add Mr. _Thomas
Fritsel_ bookseller, a person who has made an useful tour over Europe;
speaks several modern languages, as well as Latin; and to whom I was
obliged for a particular mark of courtesy, and the present of several
useful books. Not only he, but the three gentlemen last mentioned speak
good English, which language is much esteemed and studied in this place.
Dr. _Menchenius_ shewed me the little work of _Alcyonius De exilio_,
which I was glad to see, because it is said to have been compiled out of
_Cicero’s_ treatise _De gloria_; which the plagiary for that reason took
occasion to suppress. Dr. _Goëtze_ among several fair manuscripts, and
old editions of classic authors, shewed me a neat but antient satyr _On
the Pope and Court of Rome_. It is a manuscript, as yet unprinted, in
Elegiac verse, entitled _Eironeia Gaufridi_. He has also a curious and
fair manuscript of _Columella_, another of a Greek _Menologion_, a very
old _Greek Testament_, printed in Spain, with the Latin in the margin;
but exactly referring in every word by cautious notes from the known
to the unknown language, lest the monks of that time should have taken
γενέσεως to signify _liber_, and βίβλος _generationis_. In another old
Spanish book, concerning the antiquities of that country, he shewed me
a copy of the old Gothic character; in which it is observable, that the
vowels are generally incorporated with the consonants, which they follow.

In the two libraries of this place, the one belonging to the university,
the other to the senate, I took notice of the following curiosities.

In the former I observed two celebrated pictures of _Luther_ and
_Melancthon_, both taken after their death. Several specimens of what
they called _moneta bracteata_, lately found in Saxony; but which I take
to have been only leaves of silver covering a mass of inferior metal.
An old manuscript of _Homer_, with large _Scholia_, which they here
think have never been published. The draught of an old _idol_ worshiped
in Germany; the original of which was a short brass image of an human
figure, hollow within, and contrived to make an artificial wind issue out
of his mouth, like the globes of that sort now become so common.

In the library of the senate I observed an Egyptian _mummy_. Several
Roman _urns_ and _funeral lamps_. Saxon _urns_, like others which I
observed at _Dresden_ and elsewhere, full of thin fragments of bones;
in one of which were found several small iron and brass instruments,
and upon a thin plate of brass the two following letters, ⲱ. ⲉ. A fine
collection of coins. A good manuscript of _Theocritus_. A noble specimen
of the rich silver mines in Saxony, in a mass about three feet long and
two broad, the whole of which almost is pure metal.

Adjoining to the _Collegium Paulinum_ is the university church, where
they have prayers on festival days. It is full of antient and modern
monuments, all of good work. This university took its rise from the
dispersion of the _Hussites_, and the banishment of _John Huss_ himself
from _Prague_. And by its first constitution it is appropriated to four
nations; the _Misnians_ (of whom _Leipsick_ is the metropolis) the
other hereditary countries of the Elector of _Saxony_, the _Bavarians_,
and the _Poles_. The chief magistrate annually elected here is called
_rector magnificus_, as in other German universities; and in him, with
his subordinate officers, rests the sole government and jurisdiction of
this learned body. The present _rector_ is Dr. _Cyprianus_, professor of
divinity.

It was in _Leipsick_, that I first observed the Lutheran manner of
communicating. The priest and the deacon, who assists him, are habited in
surplices, copes, and sleeves, like those of the Greeks and Romanists.
The service is chanted by the priests standing, and the people round
about at a distance, but in the same posture. The consecration being
ended, the communicants draw near, and on the north side of the altar
approach the priest, who delivers into the mouth of each of them still
standing the consecrated wafer. The communicants from thence walk round
the back part of the altar, and so come to the deacon, from whom they
likewise standing receive the cup, and thence return orderly to their
proper places. In the mean time, while the species are delivered by
the priest on one side and the deacon on the other, two choristers
habited likewise in copes and surplices attend each, holding under
them a rich pall of velvet, or other stuff, to receive any particle
of the elements, which may fall accidentally. This done, they likewise
chant a thanksgiving service in a standing posture, and so depart. The
ecclesiastics of the place wear large white ruffs, not only in time of
divine service, but likewise as their ordinary habit when in public; and
with this a round cloth cap, like that lately alloted to the commoners in
the university of _Oxford_.

These are the principal observations I had leisure to make at _Leipsick_,
where his Excellency staid from the sixth to the fourteenth of this
month. On this day therefore we proceed on our journey five German
miles to _Hall_ over an open arable country. This is an antient city,
founded and perfected by the several _Othos_, Emperors of Germany. It
is now large, but meanly built, tho famous for its salt pits, from
whence it has the name of _Hall_. In these they work night and day with
an uninterrupted diligence, nor ever cease, but in the time of divine
service on Sundays. It is situated on the river _Sala_, which name
corresponds with that of the city.

The King of _Prussia_, as has been said, Sovereign of the place, opened
an university here some years since, which at present flourishes with
about a thousand students, and several professors of eminent note, among
these are _Strychius_, _Thomasius_, and _Franckius_. The last is the
person, who sent me formerly into Turkey several little tracts of his
own composition, which had been translated into Latin and Italian, in
order to be distributed here. I therefore visited him this evening, and
discoursed with him upon his famous project of an ample charity; by which
he maintains above six hundred children of both sexes, and that by no
other fund, than collections gathered by his own industry. Three hundred
of these, being boys, he has reduced to a college, which he now calls the
_Orphanotrophium_. It is an handsome building, well contrived for the
reception of so many poor orphans, for their diet, lodging, schooling,
clothing, and afterwards their removal to some proper calling. He has
here a printing house for the use of the society, and from thence have
now been published several treatises, of which he presented me with two,
concerning the _Jewish_ history, and the ecclesiastical government of
_Bohemia_. The King of _Prussia_, who is thought the principal supporter
of this great charity, has lately authorized the _Orphanotrophium_
under an ample patent, and allowed both the society, and the founder
of it, several honourable and advantageous privileges. By this great
undertaking Mr. _Franck_ proposes to lay a scheme and foundation for the
reformation of manners, and better advancement of learning at the same
time. But as he is one of the primary _Pietists_ in all Germany, the
opposite party among the Lutherans in these parts, who in distinction
call themselves the _Orthodox_, cease not to calumniate both him and his
design. Tho how justly, God only knows. He delivered me a packet for Mr.
_Ludolf_, and commissioned me to salute Dr. _Bray_, and Mr. _Woodward_
of _Stepney_, with whom he corresponds in relation to this intended
reformation.


December xv.

From _Hall_ we now pass to _Koendern_, and by the way cross the _Sala_
in a ferry boat at _Alsleber_, leaving _Eisleben_, the birth place of
_Luther_, a little on the right hand. The day following we continue our
journey from _Koendern_ to _Aschersleben_, leaving _Paidleburg_ in sight
on the left hand. And the next day we move forward to _Halberstadt_,
palling from _Upper_ into _Lower Saxony_ in this day’s journey.
_Halberstadt_ is a large town, subject to the King of _Prussia_, having
about fourteen churches, which are pretty equally divided betwixt
Protestants and Papists.


December xviii.

This day we leave _Halberstadt_ and proceed to _Hessen_, a small village
belonging to _Rodolphus Augustus_, Duke of _Brunswick_; who has here an
old moted house, with a pleasant garden, and a fountain of brass work,
which for the variety of animals there artfully represented, and the
device of the whole, deserves to be remarked. We continue here the two
following days, and then set out for _Wolfembutel_, where we arrive at
night, and lodge in the suburbs.


December xxii.

His Excellency departed this morning from _Wolfembutel_ with a design
to go directly to _Hildesheim_; upon which I desire leave to take a
different road, in order to see _Brunswick_, _Hanover_, and _Hamburg_.
However I spent this day at _Wolfembutel_, in observing what was curious
there.

The town is pleasantly seated on the river _Ocker_, in a place not so
intirely level as the other parts of _Lower Saxony_, but enjoying a
variety of rising and declining ground, with a convenient mixture of
woods, which hitherto we observed to be intirely wanting from _Leipsick_
to this place. The city is compactly built, has fair and large streets,
tho no very stately edifices, and is well fortified with a regular
wall, and a double foss. It has two remarkable churches, one of which
is the cathedral, an old Gothic building, adorned with a variety of
sculpture and statues; and the other is a new church, lately erected by
the present Duke of this place, in a peculiar form. It has an ascent
at the front by a handsome staircase on two sides, and then opens into
a perfect oval, which is supported by six stately pillars, and covered
with a cupola. Directly facing the door is a piece of good work in
sculpture, representing the _Virgin_, and other religious figures; and
under this in a small orbicular desk, which appears as an ornament of
the work, is seen the pulpit. Underneath is a table of wood, set so
distinct from the wall, that it cannot properly be called an altar, and
at each end are two high steps for the kneeling of the communicants.
For the Lutherans, who in some places communicate standing, do the same
in others kneeling; and the notion of an altar, with the posture of
receiving, are in their opinion things indifferent. The castle of this
place (which alone is properly _Wolfembutel_) is just without the wall
of the city, and is the residence of the Duke. He has here an academy
for the use of young gentlemen of all nations, where they are instructed
in the arts of fencing, riding, dancing, and other exercises. But what
is most remarkable, in the precincts of the castle is the celebrated
library, founded by _Christianus Augustus_, the father of this Prince.
It consists of two large and spatious galleries, ranged all round with
books, and filled in the middle with a double row of desks, which in the
inner gallery likewise contain shelves for books of lesser volumes. It
was collected with great assiduity, and at a vast expence, by the said
Prince; who himself employed his pains intirely in this design, and
wrote the several catalogues digested in various orders, and consisting
of eight volumes in _folio_, with his own hand. The present librarian
is the famous Mr. _Leibnitz_, who at this time did not reside upon the
place; but an assistant of his shewed the library, and observed to me
the following curiosities. A collection of printed _Bibles_, the largest
and most curious, which are any where to be found. A large manuscript
_English Bible_ in _folio_, which seems very antient and begins thus: _In
the erste made God of nought the hevens and the ery, and the ery forsooth
was vein and veyd, and darknesses weren upon the face of the zee._ At
the bottom of the first page is wrote _Lumley_ in later characters. A
manuscript _Greek Testament_; and two printed copies, one of _Aldus_
and the other at _Hagenoa_, in which is wanting that famous testimony
of _St. John_ concerning the three, that bear witness in heaven. An
antient manuscript of _St. Jerome’s Bible_, written about four hundred
years since, by one who subscribes himself _Abbas Gaufridus Vitulus_;
and at the end of the same has delineated himself, with the head of a
_calf_. A manuscript _Aethiopic Testament_, given by father _Kircher_
to the founder of the library. A copy of the _Psalms_, written in those
characters, which are called _Ciceroniani_ and _Cyprianici_. A voluminous
collection of modern _Histories_, in four hundred manuscript volumes in
_folio_; among which are thirteen called _Chroniques d’Angleterre_. The
whole number cost the Duke two thousand four hundred crowns; but it is
thought, he purchased them much to dear. A fair turning desk with six
leaves, like that before described in the Praemonstratensian library at
_Prague_. A fair _Herbal_, with each flower delineated in its proper
colours. A roll of the _Pentateuch_, and a vail now used by the Jews in
reading the _Law_. Several reliques of _Luther_, as his spoon, drinking
glass, leaden inkbottle, and a _Letter_ in his own hand to one of his
contemporary bishops, in which he sends the salutes of his wife in
these words: _Salutat te, Dominus meus, Ketha reverenter._ Two books
written by Prince _Christian_ himself, founder of the library: one _De
ludo scacchia_, in the German language; the other in _folio_, called
_Cryptographia_, treating of cyphers and other secret devices, in the
title of which he calls himself _Gustavus Selenus_, meaning _Augustus
Luneburgicus_. A fair edition of the _vulgate Latin Bible_ by _Aldus_ at
_Venice_, which reads in _Genesis_ iii. 15, _Ipsum conteret caput tuum_,
instead of the usual _ipsa_.

The present Duke _Antonius Ulricus_, and his brother _Rudolphus
Augustus_, who resides at _Brunswick_, have the title of _Brunswick_ and
_Lunenburg_ in common with their eldest brother the Duke of _Zell_, and
their nephew the Duke of _Hanover_. But their proper government is the
territory of _Brunswick_ and _Wolfembutel_ which they govern by joint
name and authority, both being equally sovereign in each. _Rudolphus_
is about seventy two years of age, plain and unaffected in his carriage,
insomuch that sometimes he takes a private journey to _Hamburg_ where he
walks the streets in the disguise of a country gentleman. But _Antonius_
is a more polite and accomplished prince, affecting the French behaviour
and education; for which end he here maintains the academy above
mentioned He is courtly, and condescending, and greatly beloved by his
subjects. He is now about sixty three years of age, and has two sons;
of which he, who shall live to be his heir, will jointly inherit the
authority and dominions both of his father and uncle _Rudolphus_.


December xxiii.

This morning I take the post waggon for _Brunswick_, which is seated on
the same river as _Wolfembutel_, in a watry plain, having a large extent,
but narrow streets, and houses of the old fashion almost intirely of
wood, most of which have a date over the door of three or four hundred
years standing. The stadthouse is of the same or greater antiquity, and
adorned with a variety of statues on the outside. The town is fortified,
but neither with great regularity nor strength. The castle is the
residence of the Duke, being an old decayed building. I staid here from
nine in the morning till three in the afternoon, where I found the mum,
for which this place is so celebrated, not so good, as that they export
for sale. It is made only of malt well brewed, and the liquor boiled a
second time in an equal quantity of the same. However the art is peculiar
to this place, and cannot be imitated at _Wolfembutel_, tho it is so very
near. Nor, on the other hand, can the excellent beer of _Wolfembutel_ be
equal’d here. They are likewise famous for a large sort of sausage, which
is made of raw meat and spices.

At three a clock I depart for _Hanover_ by the way of _Peine_, with
an intention, as is here the custom, to travel all night. In the way
betwixt seven and eight a clock (which at this time of the year had been
entirely dark, unless for the benefit of the moon) the post horses tired
in an open feild, and refused to stir a step farther; by which means we
were detained above an hour, till the postilion procured others from
a neighbouring village. I was then in company of an Italian man and a
French woman, whose company somewhat relieved the affliction of this
accident. By twelve a clock we reach _Peine_, and after half an hour’s
refreshment the Italian and I proceed for _Hanover_, thro a wide and
watry common.


December xxiv.

By eight a clock this morning I arrive at _Hanover_, where I wait on
Mr. _Cresset_, and his chaplain Mr. _Lombard_. And being invited by the
former to diner, we no sooner rise from table, but news was brought, that
my Lord Paget, having changed his mind, had turned out of the road for
_Heldesheim_ to this place; to whom therefore I repair at his lodgings
without the gate of the city.


December xxv.

Tho this was _Christmas_ day, his Excellency had nevertheless no service
in his family. And the day following I made a visit to Mr. Scott, Sir
Chumley Deering, Mr. Wright, and some others. The next day being Sunday,
his Excellency had service in his family. At five a clock in the evening
I was introduced by Mr. Scott, and lady Belmont, to kiss the hand of
the Princess Dowager _Sophía_, who did me the honour to discourse with
me half an hour about the state of Turkey. The same night a tragedy was
acted at the theatre of the court, and afterwards the _Mariage forcé_
of _Moliere_; which I then saw, for the opportunity of seeing at the
same time the Prince Elector, the Prince his son, and the Princess his
daughter, with the Electress Dowager, who were all present.


December xxviii.

His Excellency proceeds in his way to _Osnaburg_; but I continue still at
_Hanover_, with an intention to take post for _Hamburg_, and dine this
day with Mr. _Cresset_. The day following in the afternoon I visit the
library and cabinet of Abbot _Gerhardus_, otherwise called _Molanus_. His
cabinet consists of a vast collection of modern coins, particularly those
of Germany, among which he has intire sets of the houses of _Brunswick_
and _Saxony_. He has likewise a rich and numerous collection of medals of
all the European kingdoms, stampt upon the most celebrated occasions; and
many of them are gold, some of which weigh an hundred ducats, and others
but little less. Those of _Sweden_ seemed to me the noblest both for the
work and device, particularly one of _Gustavus Adolphus_, upon marching
his army over the frozen _Baltick_, with this inscription: NATURA HOC
DEBVIT VNI. Another of _Charles_ the eleventh, with the reverse of the
_North star_, and inscribed: NESCIT OCCASVM. Those of the house of
_Hanover_ are likewise curious, particularly one of the Princess Dowager,
stampt by her about fourteen years since; the reverse a _sun_ setting
without a cloud, and the words: _Senza turbarmi al fin m’accosto._
Another of the young Prince _George Augustus_, the reverse a _fountain_
springing up in a strong perpendicular column of water, with this legend:
VIS INSITA DVCIT IN ALTVM. Besides these he has a good collection of
antient medals; the most remarkable of which were _Julianus_ the first;
and _Antinous_ of the first size, if genuine, the reverse a _sheep_.

By eleven a clock this night I depart in the post waggon for _Zell_,
and in the way make these observations on _Hanover_, and the persons I
saw there. The town is moderately large, fair, and compact, seated on
the _Leine_, and reasonably well fortified. The palace of the Prince is
old, and mean in outward appearance, but within beautiful and splendid.
The clergy here is but meanly esteemed, and more meanly provided for;
except that Abbot _Gerhardus_ has an income (the sole remainder of church
lands not sequestered) to the yearly value of eight hundred pounds
sterling. By this preferment he is superintendent of the whole clergy in
the territories of the Duke of _Brunswick Hanover_, and is by the same
incapable of marrying. The Elector is a sage, discreet, just, and sober
Prince. The Princess his mother is courteous, affable, condescending,
and prudent; well versed in the Dutch, English, French, and Italian
languages; and gay and vigorous to a miracle at the age of seventy two.
The young Prince is brisk, affable, and ingenious. The Princess, daughter
to the Elector, comely, ingenious, lively, and her courteous behaviour
charms all, who converse with her. Mr. _Cresset_, who has long resided as
Envoy to this court, and those of _Zell_, _Brunswick_, and _Wolfembutel_,
is a wise and pious gentleman, has a family well governed, and lives much
to the honour of himself and his country.


December xxx.

By seven a clock this morning I arrive at _Zell_, where I remain the rest
of the day, and take that opportunity of seeing the castle; as likewise
the venerable old Duke, _William George_, now eighty years of age; to
whom I was admitted by the favour of Mr. _Robbeton_ and Mr. _De la
Forest_, two gentlemen who here shewed me great civility.


December xxxi.

I set forward from _Zell_, and lodge this night at a post house, in a
small village called _Sorndorf_. The country is here pleasant, with a
variety of fir, oak, and other wood, but for the most part barren, and
overrun, with heath.


January i.

From _Sorndorf_ I reach _Harburg_ by twelve a clock this day, dine there,
and then take boat for _Hamburg_ cross the _Elbe_. The river is here
above a German mile broad, and interspersed with various islands. In the
evening I delivered Mr. _Cresset’s_ recommendations to Mr. Aldersey,
who thereupon received me courteously, and procured me a good lodging
from Mr. Townly in the English house. I was detained here to the twenty
eighth of this month, partly by the extremity of the frost, which had
made the _Elbe_ now unpassable; and partly by the kindness of our English
merchants, who reside in this place.

_Hamburg_ is a free imperial city, chief of the _Hanse_ towns, and seated
on the north side of the _Elbe_, where it receives the _Alster_. The
figure of it is semicircular, being almost straight towards the _Elbe_,
which it receives by many chanels into the very heart of the city. Some
of these chanels serve as harbours to the ships, others to convey goods
to the magazines of merchants, and others to bring water to the houses,
particularly of the brewers, who have cranes to draw water into their
vessels. It is about two Italian miles in length, and above five in
circumference. The streets are well paved, tho narrow, and the houses
beautiful in the front, especially in the _Wantrum_, the _Green_, and
_Catherine_ street. The fortifications are substantial, consisting
intirely of ramparts of earth, covered with grass, and not faced with
brick. They are constantly maintained in good repair; tho it is commonly
objected to them, that the inward works are too high, so that being
raised too much above the outward, they are exposed to the first attack
of the enemy. There are six gates, all beautiful and stately buildings;
that particularly, which is called the gate of _Altena_, because it leads
to that place, is said to have cost an hundred thousand crowns. The
strength of the city was lately tried, in the year 1686 (If I mistake
not) by the King of _Denmark_, who then laid siege to it, tho without
success. He had depended upon the treachery of two principal burgers,
who had promised to admit him into the town; but their treason being
accidentally detected, and they put to the torture, the matter was soon
confessed, and they deservedly executed. The head of one of them is still
exposed on an iron Spike over the _Steingate_. In confidence of this
concerted treachery that Prince came so unprovided, that he could invest
no more of the town, than that which faces _Altena_ which gave occasion
to the Holland _gazeteer_ to say, that the King of _Denmark_ had besieged
the eighth part of _Hamburg_. During the siege he was baffled even by the
small castle, called _Sternfort_, about a mile distant from the town;
which by a line of communication they releived every day at twelve a
clock, and so maintained it against the enemy. To add to the strength
of the city they are now building a new detached work, consisting of an
intire rampart, to be continued from the east side of the _Alster_ to the
_Elbe_, which is a noble fortification, and will at the same time guard
and enlarge the space of the city. It is divided into the _New_ and the
_Old City_, the former of which is the more stately and beautiful of the
two.

The religion of this place is Lutheran, in which the government is so
strict, as to admit of no other religious assembly, except that of the
church of England, which is allowed to the English company. The city is
divided into five parishes, that of _St. Catharine_, _St. Peter_, _St.
James_, _St. Nicholas_, and _St. John_. To each of these are dedicated
so many fair and spatious churches, all well adorned with sculptures,
paintings, organs, and altars. That of _St. Catharine_ exceeds the rest,
and is particularly remarkable for a noble stone pulpit, the whole
consisting of the bed marble, carved into the figures of the twelve
_Apostles_, and other religious devices; for several large inimitable
pieces of painting in _fresco_ against the north wall; and for a
stately organ, supposed to be the largest and finest in the world. It
has fifty four stops, and consists of five thousand pipes, all gradually
proportioned from the biggest, which is three fourths of an English
yard in diameter, to the least, no larger than the last joint of ones
little finger. In the same church is admirably well painted the _Temple
of Solomon_ in perspective. Besides these parish churches, there is the
cathedral, commonly there called the _Dome_; and a new church in the
middle of the _New City_. The _Dome_ is now almost out of use, except
for some occasional sermons; and the porch, with the several isles, are
possessed by booksellers shops: tho this is what is likewise common
to the porches, and other outward apartments, of the most frequented
churches. The five parish churches, and that of the _New City_, have
each of them their pastor, and besides him two or three chaplains; so
that the number of clergymen here amounts to above twenty, of which one
is superintendant over them, and the clergy of the whole territory. This
however is very small, as not reaching down the river _Elbe_ farther than
the limits of _Altena_, a large town within half a mile of _Hamburg_,
belonging to the King of _Denmark_. On the other sides it is encompassed
with the dominions of the Duke of _Holstein_, at the distance of two or
three miles; only up the _Elbe_ it has a narrow tract of ground subject
to the city, for the space of twenty miles, in which are some small
villages, that acknowledge its jurisdiction. The church lands belonging
to the cathedral are now possessed by burgers, or others of the city; but
under the same titles, by which they formerly belonged to the church,
as _dean_, _canons_, and others. Which sequestration, as it seems to be
a sacrilegious usurpation; so their continuing the right under the same
titles, is only a monument and confession of the crime.

The government of the city is by a free and sovereign jurisdiction of
their own, which is lodged in three orders of men, the burgomasters, the
senate, and the burgers. The burgomasters are four persons chosen out
of the senate, of which two are yearly regent. The senate consists of
about twenty, chosen as vacancies happen out of the burgers. The burgers
compose the whole body of the citizens, ranked under their five distinct
parishes. This government some what resembles that of antient _Rome_,
by consuls, senate, and people; and is excellent in itself, but very
liable to be perverted by the prevalency of any of the parts, of which
it consists. This is at present seen in the case of _Hamburg_, where
the burgers by reason of their multitude, and the seditious spirit of
inferior persons, have so far usurped the power of the place, that they
terrify the senate, and stop all public proceedings, which are not to
their relish. Particularly they are now so obstinate, as to refuse their
consent to the supply towards the war, required by the Emperor, and to
other public levies of the city, till they can extort the consent of
the senate for restoring one Dr. _Meyer_ to his pastoral office of _St
James_. This is a violent seditious man, suspected of an ill life, but
of a ready overbearing eloquence in the pulpit; who, about five years
since had quitted his pastoral office in _Hamburg_, for another like
charge, and superintendency in _Pomerania_. His parishioners now recall
him to his cure at _Hamburg_, which he publicly declines; but privately
encourages, and thereby occasions a lamentable faction and sedition in
the town. His own and two other parishes press his return, and refuse to
treat of other business, till the senate shall consent thereto. But they
being duly cautious of admitting so dangerous a person into the city,
who is now more particularly suspected of intriguing against them, in
dependence on the King of Sweden, will never admit thereof; especially as
he insists upon returning in his own rank, and in prospect of the same
seniority, he before obtained in the place.

The burgomasters of this place never appear in public, but in a peculiar
dress; which consists of an high crowned hat made of cloth, plated
thick and strong in numerous folds; with a large ruff; and a black
velvet coat ending at the knees, and plaited from the middle. There
are likewise several other antient habits used by all public persons,
even to midwives, dressers of the dead, and those who bear the corps to
funerals. The habit of their divines is a round black cap, a ruff, and
a gown without sleeves. All these may commonly be seen at once in the
solemnity of a funeral, which they here affect to make very pompous for
all persons, even those of little children. The burgomasters, senators,
divines, lawyers, physicians, and as many of all sorts, as they can
procure, attend the corps from the house to the church; for which they
are each paid a certain fee, the chief about a florin, and inferiors
proportionably. It is observable, that the bearers of the corps have a
peculiar step, all moving their leg at the same time croswise from one
side to the other.

This city wholly subsists by trade, which it still enjoys to a great
degree. But they now complain, that they begin to be robbed of their
former flourishing commerce by _Lubeck_ and _Bremen_, and even the poor
town of _Altena_, which with regret they see rising under their walls.
Here is the staple of linen from Germany; cloth from England; and wines
from Spain, France, and the Rhine. Of this last the city preserves a
vast stock in public cellars; the largest of which, being a magazine of
_Rhenish_ wine, I visited one evening, and was there assured, that they
have the wine of every year since 1623; and accordingly we then drank of
three sorts, 1623, 1664, and 1678. At the same time I tried the perfect
clearness of the loaf sugar of this place; which they purify to such a
degree, that it does not discolour the cleared _Rhenish_ wine.

The English company, which upon the decay of _Antwerp_ removed to this
place, is a regular, gentile, and hospitable society of merchants.
They were here granted large privileges, which they still enjoy; tho
at home our English parliament has lately infringed those, which they
had permitted them. Their goods from England are imported free of
custom, except that they pay a trifle as an acknowledgement. Their own
jurisdiction, and religion, is freely granted them. The town first
presented them with a large piece of building, which they obliged
themselves to keep in perpetual repair. In this there is a public chapel;
and an apartment, which they call the _Ordinary room_, where all the
company, who are unmarried, dine and sup at one table, and the deputy
governor and assistants meet upon public occasions. Adjoining to it is
the house of the deputy governor, the minister, and the secretary; all
likewise given by the town, and maintained by them. The governor of this
company at present resides in England; but the other officers, as the
deputy governor, secretary, and assistants, to the number of twenty four,
are all resident upon the place, and dispatch all business relating to
the society; which is contrary to the custom of the Turkey company, the
governing part whereof always resides in England. The deputy governor and
secretary are chosen, or confirmed, either quarterly or yearly; and the
same is practised with the minister, whose salary, besides the benefit
of an house, is two hundred pounds a year. The number of merchants,
assistants, and others, may here amount from thirty to forty persons;
and with their wives, children, and servants, their congregation (which
is very regular) is seen on Sunday from an hundred and fifty to two
hundred persons. My conversation during my stay at _Hamburg_ was chiefly
among these; and I had more particularly the friendship of Mr. Free,
deputy governor; Mr. Aldersey, secretary; Mr. Emerson, minister; Mr.
Stratford, Manning, Lethieullier, and Remington merchants; and their
respective families. I preached every Sunday, while I continued here;
and received many tokens of favour from the whole company; particularly
on the sixteenth of January, a present of a silver tankard, value forty
crowns. At the same time I had the honour of being known to Mr. Wyat, her
Majesty’s resident at this place, and deputed likewise to the _Hanse_
towns of _Bremen_ and _Lubeck_.

There is a good and well furnished library belonging to this city, which
adjoins to the church of _St. John_. And during my stay here I had the
opportunity of conversing with _Jo. Albertus Fabricius_, a person of
great learning, and famous for some works he has already published. I
visited likewise _Mynhéer Langerman_, a druggist, who shewed me some
curious _ores_; and _pieces of eight_, fished up from a Spanish wreck;
with the _piedra de puerco_, about the size of a large nutmeg, which is
found in the bladder of some hogs in the _Philippine_ islands, a great
sudorific, and esteemed a sovereign remedy against intermitting fevers.
One stone is usually valued at a hundred ducats.

The night I visited the wine cellar at Mr. Manning’s house, we saw a man,
named _George Po_, born at _Prague_, who eat raw flesh, glass, paper,
and above all things raw flax and tow, which he devoured very greedily,
and called it his chief delicacy. He likewise swallows large stones, and
accustoms himself to devour all unnatural substances, even perukes; tho
of this last he is now somewhat cautious, since his twin brother died by
eating one at _Halberstadt_. A senator’s wife of this city maintains an
opera house, where they have a prodigious large stage, and great variety
of well painted scenes. Here Mr. Lethieullier one night entertained us
to our great satisfaction. At the same place, and belonging to the same
woman, is shewn the famous model of _Solomon’s Temple_, being the exact
resemblance of that fabric, as described by the best authors, expressed
in every part by carved wood work to the hight of an English yard,
and all the inward apartments perfectly exhibited to the eye, as the
workman takes it to pieces for the satisfaction of the spectators. This
ingenious machine cost no less than ten thousand dollars.

The inhabitants of _Hamburg_ are censured as proud, formal, and
ceremonious; the magistrates as addicted to vice, libertinism, and
self interest; and the people as turbulent, and seditious; whence many
prognosticate ill to the trade, and future power of the city. The
language, which they here speak, is called the _Plat Dutch_, being a
medium betwixt that of Germany and Holland.

During my stay here, I was informed of a detestable practice, frequent
among many melancholy and disordered persons of this place; who being
weary of life, and apprehensive of the sin of self murder, rather choose
to murder some innocent child, and by that means to be brought to
capital punishment, by which they attain their desire of death, with the
advantage, as they imagine, of a previous time for repentance, without
the guilt of their own hand. At the same time they esteem the child,
whom they choose to sacrifice, to be without any guilt of conscience, as
having not yet arrived to years of discretion[140]. This tragedy happens
every year, as many experienced witnesses among our merchants assured me;
and they attribute the frequency of the practice to the great facility of
their confessors, in affording peace and fair promises to all sorts of
dying penitents.

Another tragedy lately acted at _Hamburg_ was of a monstrous virago, born
in the dukedom of _Zell_, who by an unnatural disposition of her uterine
parts was capable of acting the part of a man; and accordingly she made
it her practice in rambling from place to place to marry at each a young
woman, several of whom she had murdered. With her last spouse, whom she
had let into all her mysterious impiety, she murdered one of her former
wives; as likewise a man, whom they had cajoled for sometime into their
company, and whose head they afterwards boiled for venefical uses, as
they pretended. But being caught and tortured, they confessed this black
history of their life, and were executed here about a year since.

The campain about the neighbourhood of _Hamburg_ is green, and well
distinguished with wood and shade; but at a farther distance, like other
parts of _Lower Saxony_, it is a dull and unfruitful heath. The immediate
circuit of the walls affords delicious walks, all kept in good repair,
and adorned on each side with rows of trees, kept in a beautiful order.
Sometime after we had received the account of the capture of the Spanish
galleons at _Vigo_, happening to have a leisure hour, I amused myself in
writing the following short poem upon that agreable subject.

        _Erit altera, quae vehat Argo_
    _Delectos heroas._ Virg. Ecl. iv. ℣. 34.

    _Hactenus Argoos cecinisti, Graecia, nautas,_
      _Et rudis aethereo pinus in axe micat;_
    _Altera Britannas nunc implet Iberia puppes,_
      _Terraque Phrixeam Cantabra mittit ovem._
    _Alter es Aeëtes, Lodoix, vinctusque sopore_
      _Aeterno serpens Gallica classis erit._
    _Aesoniden, Ormonde, refers; et forte puella,_
      _Quae tibi Medeam praestet, Ibera fuit._
    _At quantum Argolicae praeluxerit Angla juventae,_
      _Sit memor aeterno carmine fama loqui._
    _Unica tunc unam decoravit praeda carinam;_
      _Millia nunc referunt vellera mille rates._
    _Anna, parens orbis, pretiosam carpere lanam_
      _Incipe, et augusta fila novare manu;_
    _Protinus optato flavescent saecla metallo,_
      _Et fluet e fusis aurea vita tuis._


January xxviii.

Resolving at last to take leave of my good friends at _Hamburg_, _Mynhéer
Platia_, with two other merchants, and myself, hire a post waggon for
_Holland_. We set forward by seven a clock in the morning, and continue
our way two German miles up the river, by the village of _Offensey_ to
_Blankeness_; there we cross the _Elbe_, and proceed to a town called
_Buxtchude_ in the dominion of _Sweden_, and by night arrive at a poor
house in the wood called _Arnswoldt_. Here we drive in with our waggon,
and alight at the same room, which was to receive us and our horses,
and be at the same time our chamber and parlour, and the kitchin of our
old landlady, who was smoked like a ham of bacon. We found her with her
houshold, brooding over a fire hearth in the middle of this apartment,
common to her self and cattle. Over which there was no chimney, but a
wooden rack well stored with bacon, where the smoke was employed to
prepare the provision of the year, without wasting itself at the funnel
of a chimney. We are laid on a large heap of straw[141], whilst the cows
are chewing the cud on each side, and lulling us to sleep. It was here I
first saw the black bread of this country, called _bonpournickel_; and
was told, that this with plenty of swines flesh, and the thick water of
this flat country, were the only dainties of the place. However, it was
our good fortune not to be reduced to that diet; for we fared well on our
hamper, which we brought with us from _Hamburg_.


January xxix.

Leaving this disagreable place very early, we arrive at the gates of
_Bremen_ late at night, and are therefore obliged to lodge in the
suburbs, till we could enter the town the next morning. It is a large
and fair city, free of the empire, and one of the most considerable
_Hanse_ towns, seated on the _Weser_, or _Visurgis_. Here we baited at
the wine cellar over against the Exchange, where there is a magazine of
good _Rhenish_, inferior in nothing but the quantity of vessels, and
largeness of the stock, to that of _Hamburg_. We then proceed by nine a
clock (after I had visited Mr. Willet, an English merchant) and on the
farther side of the town cross the river under a noble gate, which in
an inscription calls this VETVSTISSIMVS VISVRGIS TRAIECTVS. The _Weser_
is here fair, wide, and almost straight, affording a reception for the
vessels belonging to the town; but those of a greater burthen are obliged
to remain some leagues lower. At this river we now leave _Lower Saxony_,
and enter the circle of _Westphalia_. In an hour and a half we come to
_Delmenhorst_, an old town and castle belonging to the King of _Denmark_.
From thence we proceed to _Wildeshusen_, a town in the dominion of the
Elector of _Hanover_, where we lodge.


January xxxi.

We go on this day to _Klopperburg_, a town of the _Lower Bishoprick_ of
_Munster_; from whence in a little time we reach the banks of the _Hase_,
and in a few hours more the town thence called _Haselun_, where we take
up our lodging that night.


February i.

We had hitherto found _Westphalia_ a desolate and wild country, overrun
with heath, except here and there adorned with small groves of stately
oak, in the middle of which we commonly found a single farm house,
enclosed with rude pales like a park, which in summer time must be truly
pleasant. In several places by the road side are seen posts, with iron
boxes on the top, for the receipt of charity, as if the land it self
confessed its poverty. However in this day’s journey the appearance
began to alter, for about ten a clock we arrived at _Lingen_, a pretty
compact and well built town, which lately belonged to King _William_,
but now to the King of _Prussia_. The neighbourhood is well stored with
woods; the skirts of the town adorned with frequent gardens, and alleys
of trees orderly planted; and the whole place by a show of riches and
beauty confessing, as it were, the benefit of a moderate and protestant
government.

Just beyond the limits of this town we cross the _Ems_, or _Amasia_, by
a ferry boat, and afterwards continue our journey to _Northern_, the
first town of the _United Provinces_, in the limits of which we now pass
out of _Westphalia_ into _Overissel_. After a short bait we proceed
to _Otmarsh_, and there lodge. This is the first place, since I left
_Hamburg_, where I was offered a bed, having hitherto slept in my cloaths
upon the straw.


February ii.

We now proceed by the way of _Almeloo_, and so to _Deventer_, over the
plains, where his late Majesty delighted sometimes to hunt. These plains
are covered with heath, and therefore afford not so good riding; but
at the same time they are enclosed within long tracts of hills rising
gently, which give the sportsman a convenient sight of the chase.


February iii.

We stop this day at _Deventer_, and put up at a public inn, where we dine
with some Danish officers; and after diner I pay a visit to the learned
_Gisbertus Cuperus_, who entertained me very obligingly, shewed me his
library, coins, inscriptions, and other curiosities. In his library were
several large volumes of letters, written by him in the name of the
states, or on other public occasions. Among his coins was one with the
title of IMP. VNICVS. And among his inscriptions this which follows:

    MACSVSANO HERCVLI SACRVM
    FLAVIVS SVMMVS MAGISTRATVS

He seemed to think this was _Hercules_ of _Mackshusen_, a town not far
distant from hence. I continue the following day at _Deventer_, and from
thence write to my freinds at _Hamburg_.


February v.

From _Deventer_ I now proceed in three hours to _Loo_, where I was
entertained for some hours in viewing the house and gardens of his late
Majesty, and then go forward to a village called _Fortshausen_, where I
take up my lodging. The next day I continue my journey to _Amersford_,
where I dine, and by four a clock reach _Utrecht_.


February vii.

This and the two following days I remain at _Utrecht_, where I now first
visit, and contract a very agreable acquaintance with Mr. _Paul Foley_,
student of that university; who the day after obliged me with his company
in a _treck schuyt_ to _Leyden_, where I view the physic garden, and
adjoining galleries of natural rarities; the academy, anatomy theatre,
great church, and other curiosities of the place. And the next morning I
take the like passage for _Rotterdam_.


February xii.

This day I went to the _Hague_, where at length I again met his
Excellency; having seen _Delft_ and _Ryswick_ in the way. At _Delft_
particularly I was entertained with a sight of the great church, and
fine monument erected there in memory of _William_ the first, Prince of
_Orange_. And the next day I continue to attend his Excellency at the
_Hague_.


February xiv.

This day, being Sunday, I depart from the _Hague_, with his Excellency,
Mr. Paget, and Mr. Foley, in a _treck schuyt_, by the way of _Leyden_,
for _Amsterdam_; where we put up at the _Oude Heeren logement_. And
staying here the two following days, after paying a visit to Mr.
_Marcus_, I amuse myself with viewing the magazine of the admiralty, the
stadthouse, and spinhouse; the hospital of boys and girls, with that of
old women; the rasphouse, and other public buildings.


February xviii.

I return this day to _Leyden_, and there see Mr. _De la Faye_, brother
of the English minister of that place; and with him visit _Jacobus
Gronovius_, professor of eloquence and history, and at this time
_rector magnificus_; from whom I receive a copy of _Mynhéer Cosson’s_
inscriptions, among which are some not published in the _Memoria
Cossoniana_.


February xix.

We now leave _Leyden_, and go back to _Rotterdam_, where his Excellency
is lodged at the _Doole_ for about eight days, and then removes to
_Winestreet_. During this time I become acquainted with Mr. Richard Davis
on the _Heering vliet_, the chief promoter of the new episcopal English
church, now building at the upper end of that _vliet_. I observe whatever
is remarkable here, particularly the statue of _Erasmus_, and the house
of his birth; and likewise pay a visit to _Mons. Bayle_.


March vi.

I attend his Excellency to the _Hague_, and the next day, being Sunday, I
go to _Rotterdam_, there preach to the episcopal congregation, and return
to the _Hague_ that evening. The day following I walk from thence to the
_House_ in the wood, which is a fine summer retirement, neatly built, and
furnished with good painting, by _Frederic Henry_, Prince of _Orange_.


March x.

I depart with Dr. _Timeni_ for _Leyden_, where I now propose a long stay.
And here I contract an acquaintance with Mr. _Neufville_, an ingenious
and polite gentleman, master of a good library, and a curious collection
of antiquities. With him also and Dr. _Timeni_ I visit several of the
professors, as _Gronovius_, _Perizonius_, and _Triglandius_; and see
likewise the library, and especially the manuscripts of this university.
Among other curiosities in the _museum_ of Mr. _Neufville_, I observed
the following inscriptions, cut in marble tablets.

    CONSIMILES FRATRVM TRABEAS GESTAMINA HONORVM
    TERTIA QVAE DEERANT ADDIDIMVS TITVLIS.

This, which follows, is on a stone opposite to the former.

    DILECTAE PROBVS HAEC PERSOLVO MVNERA MATRI
    RESTITVENS STATVIS PRAEMIA QVAE DEDERAT[142].

    D.       M.
    P. CAESIO EVTYCHETI
    FIL.B.M.Q.V.A.XXII.M.X.D.XXIV.
    H. III. FONTEIVS EVTYCHES
    ET LEPIDVS PARENTES D.

    .... RIO CVRATORI VIAE
    .. ET ALIMENTORVM
    ..I PVBLICAE AECIANENSIVM
    .. RICVLANORVM
    .. OVINCIAE ASIAE
    .. ARIO O. K. FLAMINI

    COS. AQVARVM ET M .........
    ELECTO AD IVDICAND. SACR ..
    RECTORI ITALIAE REG. IR ....
    CVRATORI COLONIAR. SPL ....
    LVGDVNENSIVM CAL .........
    CALENORVM XIIVIR ROM ....

This, which follows, was on a gemm.

    ΔΡΑΚΩΝ
    ΘΕΑΓΕΝΟΥΣ
    ΑΛΚΙΜΟΣ
    ΤΟΞΟΤΗΣ
    ΑΘΗΝΑ.

On the opposite side was a bent bow, with a quiver and arrow, as likewise
a serpent twining about the bow; and on the right side was ingraven the
word ΑΝΤΙΨΙΛΟΥ.


March xvii.

I now desire my dismission from the family of his Excellency, and hire a
lodging for myself. And such was his generosity, that two days afterwards
he was pleased to send me the residue of my salary, with half as much
more, as was then due, at the rate of eighty pounds a year.


March xxvi.

I see the curious work in cut paper by a woman at _Rotterdam_. And three
days afterwards going to _Delft_, I visit Mr. _Leewenhoek_, and see his
microscopes, with many curious discoveries upon insects, and other minute
animals. The same day I pass to the _Hague_, to gratify my curiosity in
viewing such things, as before had escaped my observation.


March xxx.

The wind setting fair for England, I hasten to _Rotterdam_, to take leave
of his Excellency, who embarked at two a clock. Here I purchase a large
number of books, and other necessaries, to a considerable value.


April ii.

I quit my lodgings at _Rotterdam_, and remove to the _Hague_. The
day following I visit the church of _Launsdone_ where I found this
inscription under two brass basins: _Margareta, Hermani Comitis
Henebergae uxor, filia Gulielmi Caesaris, anno_ MCCLXXVI 365 _enixa
est pueros etc. sicut in hac tabula ex vetustis tam manuscriptis, quam
typis excusis, chronicis positum ac enarratum est_. The same afternoon
I pass on to _Honstardyke_, where I see the _orangery_ four hundred and
fifty yards long; the East India _buffalo_, male and female; the aviary,
in which is a white peacock, the birds called _lepelaars_, and variety
of foreign ducks and geese; the stable of foreign beasts, among which
is the _mamót_ of East India (like a stag, but with twisted horns) and
a _cassaware_; the gardens, in which are several beautiful statues,
particularly one of a _gladiator_; the house consisting of one intire
quadrangle within two good galleries, the Queen’s japan cabinet, and the
King’s well furnished with curious paintings.


April xvii.

I now return again to _Amsterdam_, by the way of _Gouda_, in company with
Mr. _Vandeput_. Here we stop to observe the excellent painted glass in
the several windows of that church; and then proceeding in our passage
by the _treck schuyt_ arrive at _Amsterdam_ by six a clock next morning,
and after diner make a visit to Dr. _Cockburn_. The next day we are
introduced by the Doctor to see Mr. _De Wild’s_ cabinet, richly furnished
with coins, gems, sculptures, and statues. Among the rest of his
curiosities he has an excellent piece, representing the _Massacre_ of the
_De Witts_, a good brass _Otho_, and a fine _Venus Anadyomene_. The day
following the Doctor procured for us the like favour from Mr. _Vincent_,
whose cabinet consists of a very numerous and well disposed collection of
animals and shells.


April xxii.

Mr. _Cockburn_, son of the Doctor, Mr. _Vandeput_, and I, divert
ourselves, by making a short excursion to _Sardam_, in _North Holland_,
remarkable for the great number of windmills that surround it, and the
large quantity of timber, which always lies there ready prepared for
building of ships. We return in the evening to _Amsterdam_; and the next
day I purchase of _Mynhéer Visscher_ a set of _Geographical Charts_,
both _Old_ and _New_; and then visit _Mynhéer Uilenbroek_, a curious
gentleman, possessed of a very large and well chosen library, as also a
cabinet of coins and other rarities.


April xxiv.

I depart for _Harlem_, and there visit the learned _Antony Van Dale_, by
profession a physician, in opinion an anabaptist. He entertained me very
obligingly with a sight of the neat gardens, costly tulips, and other
amusements of that place. In discoursing with him on divers subjects
of learning, he seemed in some things over sceptical, questioning
particularly the authority of the _Apocalypse_. I go the same night to
_Leyden_, and from thence the next day to _Rotterdam_.


April xxviii.

Returning again to _Harlem_, Mr. _Van Dale_ carries me to visit _Mynhéer
Koolaert_, a merchant, and father of a beautiful daughter, named
_Hester_, about seventeen years of age, born deaf and consequently dumb;
but taught to speak (tho not very articulately) by one Dr. _Amman_, who
has published a book upon that art, of which the young lady gave me a
copy in _Dutch_, and her father another in _Latin_. She asked me after
Mr. _Rombouts_ of _Constantinople_; and I answering he is dead, she
discerned what I said by the motion of my lips. By the same means she can
discourse at large with her mother even in the dark, by feeling her lips
when speaking. She writes well, and paints curiously. And her mother is
an excellent Latinist. The same day Mr. _Van Dale_ shewed me a specimen
of the first printing, kept in the town house of this place; and in the
market place the inscription, asserting that invention to _Harlem_:

    MEMORIAE SACRVM
    TYPOGRAPHICA ARS ARTIVM OMNIVM CONSERVATRIX
    HIC PRIMVM INVENTA A L. COSTERO HARLEMENSI MCCCCXXIIX.

The next day I leave _Harlem_, and return to _Amsterdam_.


May i.

This morning, with Dr. _Cockburn_ and Mr. _Vandeput_, I visit the
learned Mr. _le Clerc_. He shewed me the _Thesaurus linguae Latinae_
of _Rob. Stephanus_, improved by manuscript notes of the author’s own
hand; as also _Irenaeus_, _Lib._ v. _cap._ 2. concerning the presence in
the sacrament; and complained of Mr. _Grabe_, as misrepresenting the
church of England in his notes. In the afternoon, in company with Mr.
_Vandeput_, I review the cabinet of _Mynhéer Uilenbroek_; and by his
leave copy the two following sepulchral inscriptions, one in Latin, and
the other in Greek, the former of which is peculiarly remarkable for the
corruption of the language.

    D.      M.      S.
    NON. SVFECERAT. VNO. DOLORE.
    MISEROS. BIBERE. PARENTES.
    QVOD. IAM. VNAM. NATAM. OMISER
    ANT. ANTE. ECCE. NVNC. ET. ALIAM.
    SAEPELITAM. VNO. DOLOREM.
    QVOD. IAM. PROPE. NYPPTVM. MYSERAE.
    DEFVNCTAE. SVNT. AMBAE. SET.
    QVI. DOLOR. ABS. TE. NOBIS. HARMO
    NIA. RVFA. RELICTVM. EST. VT. ANNI
    S. XIII. M. VI. D. XXVI. NOBISCVM. AD
    VIXERIS. VNA. ET. NOS. OPTAMVS.
    AD. VOS. PROPERARE. PARENTES.
    EGO. PATER. HARMONIVS. JANVA
    RIVS. CVM. BESTA. MATREM.
    QVAE GEMVIT. VIBET. ET. DOLET. CLO
    DIA. TROPHIME. NEC. DVBITA
    MVR. ENIM. VITA. CARERE. MO ....

    ΗΛΥΘΕΣ. ΟΥΚ. ΑΒΟΑΤΟΣ. ΕΝΙ. ΤΡΙΣΣΑΙΣ. ΔΕΚΑΔΕΣΣΙΝ.
      ΘΕΥΔΟΤΕ. ΤΑΝ. ΖΩΟΙΣ. ΟΙΜΑΝ. ΟΦΕΙΛΟΜΕΝΑΝ.
    ΚΑΙ. ΣΕ. ΤΟΝ. ΕΝ. ΣΠΟΝΔΑΙΣΙ. ΓΕΓΑΘΟΤΑ. ΠΟΥΛΥ. ΜΕΤ. ΑΣΤΩΝ.
      ΜΑΤΗΡ. ΑΙΑΖΕΙ. ΜΥΡΟΜΕΝΑ. ΠΡΥΤΑΝΙΝ.
    ΠΕΤΡΟΣ. Ο. ΔΕ. ΞΕΙΝΟΙΣΙ. ΒΟΑΣΕΤΑΙ. ΩΣ. ΑΙΔΑΛΟΣ.
      ΑΣΦΑΛΕΣ. ΑΝΘΡΩΠΟΙΣ. ΟΥΘΕΝ. ΕΝΕΙΜΕ. ΤΥΧΑ.
    ΕΙΗΣ. ΤΟΙ. ΣΥΜ. ΠΑΤΡΙ. ΚΕΧΑΡΜΕΝΟΣ. ΟΦΡΑΝ. ΕΣ. ΑΨΩ[143].
      ΣΩΣΤΡΑΤΟΣ. ΕΝ. ΦΘΙΜΕΝΟΙΣ. ΜΥΡΙΟΝ. ΑΙΝΟΝ. ΕΧΗ.


May iii.

Mr. _Vandeput_, Dr. _Cockburn’s_ youngest son, and myself, hire a
couple of chaises, and make a journey into _North Holland_. We pass
_Monnikedam_, the _Beemster_, and so to _Alckmair_; where we observe
the beautiful and clean streets, the stadthouse, the church, and noble
picture there of the year 1504, the delightful woods, and artificial
walks. We return that night, but not without being imposed on by the
owner of our chaises.


May xi.

Having continued thus long at _Amsterdam_, enjoying the company of my
good friends, and amusing my self with the variety of entertainments,
which this place affords to strangers, I now depart for _Naerden_ in the
_treck schuyt_ by the way of _Muyden_, whither I am kindly accompanied
by Mr. _Le Jolle_. There I arrive by two a clock, and having viewed that
complete and compact fortification, I depart at six in a post chaise
for _Utrecht_, where I arrive by nine, and lodge without the gate. In
the morning I repair to Mr. _Foley_, and am by him invited to lodge in
his apartment. He carried me to visit _Holthenus_, a learned divine
and minister of the place, who had then the care of the new edition of
_Gruter_; and has a good collection of coins, among which was observable
_Nerva_ of the largest size, the reverse a palm tree, with the legend
FISCI IVDAICI CALVMNIA ABLATA.


May xiv.

Mr. _Foley_ and my self hire a traveling chaise and pair at _Utrecht_,
with which we proceed to _Amerford_, and from thence to the King’s house
at _Loo_, where we arrive by three a clock in the afternoon. And upon our
return to _Utrecht_ the day following, I begin to think of _England_, and
accordingly prepare my self for a voyage by the first convenient passage.

[Illustration]




[Illustration]




_To the Reverend Dr._ Thomas Turner.


Reverend Sir,

Your great goodness will excuse the tardiness of this letter, when I
assure you, that I have been long ambitious of collecting any thing, that
might deserve your notice; tho hitherto I have been successless in that
desire. Many things indeed have occurred observable to me; but I could
not hope at the same time, that they might appear such to you. For it is
common with unexperienced travelers to be transported with pleasure and
admiration, when their accounts are not able to raise the same affections
in their freinds; either because they converse with men of better
judgment, or because the most valuable relations must needs be heard with
a greater coldness, than the things were seen. But notwithstanding these
discouragements, I have lately looked back upon my _Journal_, to see if
any thing might there appear remarkable at this distance; and tho a short
voyage by sea must be barren of all real curiosity, yet for the subject
of this letter I shall now trouble you with some of the things, which I
observed at _Cadiz_, _Messina_, and _Milo_, the three only places, where
we touched in our passage hither.

In _Cadiz_, as in most other parts of the Spanish dominions, there is
nothing very curious, but in their churches or convents; and this, when
once seen, is to be deplored, rather than admired. For when you first
come into the town, you are not so much struck with a face of religion,
as with the notion of a certain politic game, where the priests are
soon discovered to be the only winners. Since in the whole place there
is nothing fat and well favoured, but the clergy. The rest of the
inhabitants appear meagre, wan, and melancholy, being mostly employed
either in repairing to mass, or returning from it; sometimes counting
their beads, and at other times perhaps lugging an heavy Saint in their
arms. And therefore, were they not supported under this condition by a
certain natural pride, which is fed partly with the real history of their
former state, and partly with a romantic imagination of their present
grandeur; they would soon become so sensible of their slavish poverty and
superstition, as either to break their own hearts, or that yoke, which
oppresses them.

There are several religious houses in this city, one of Franciscans,
another of Dominicans, a third of Augustins, and a fourth of Capuchins;
besides some nunneries, and a fifth convent called the _Mercy_, being
founded for the redemption of Christian slaves. There is likewise an
hospital, named the _Hospital of St. John of God_; where we saw a large
and decent infirmary for sick and wounded persons, whether natives or
foreigners. There is nothing much remarkable in these places, besides the
altar pieces of their chapels, which are every where gaudily and richly
furnished; but those particularly of the cathedral church, and Dominican
convent, are adorned with tables of wrought and massy silver. On the
walls is seen abundance of painting and imagery, the device of which is
for the most part offensive, or ridiculous. An instance of the latter was
the picture of _St. Michael_, with a pair of scales in his hand, weighing
the merits of departed saints: of the former, the pourtraiture of _God
the Father_, in the shape of an _old man_; with many other blasphemous
representations of the _Trinity_. Either in their vestries, or their
chapels, there is commonly the _Saint_ of their order pourtrayed at
large, in a gaudy habit, and inclosed in a case of glass. Other lesser
images of Saints they expose in holes of the wall, where it faces the
town; and to these the devouter part of the people pay their several
occasional oraisons, as they pass the streets. This large multitude of
altars and saints, which every where appears at _Cadiz_, could not but
remind me of what the priestess in _Petronius_ sais: _Utique nostra regio
tam praesentibus plena est numinibus, ut facilius possis deum, quam
hominem invenire_[144]. But not to tire your patience with the many odd
pieces of superstition, which occur in every corner of the city, I shall
give you a relish of the whole in the two following instances.

The first of these is a specious inscription over the entrance to a
private house, occasion by the following accident. In a late solemn
procession upon _Corpus Christi_ day there happened a storm of rain,
which was in danger of offering some disrespect to the host; and
therefore they thought convenient to give it shelter in the next house,
they could step into. Among these zealous people this was construed such
a blessing to the man and his family, that the house is ever since looked
upon as sacred; and the owner has been at a considerable charge to erect
a pair of marble pillars at the entrance into his porch, adorned with
carving, and inscribed after this magnificent manner: “That in the year
1692, _Innocent_ XII being Pope, _Charles_ II King of Spain, _Buzzia_
Bishop of Cadiz, and _Don Velasco_ governor of the same Herculean city.”
_Cum arca vera, panem angelicum carnem factum continens, triumphali
processionis pompa, die festo_ Dominici Corporis _deduceretur, et,
saeviente turbine, irreverentiae periculum immineret; harum aedium
dominus_, Didacus de Barias, _exivit obviam absconditae majestati, et
fidei Centurionis aemulus procidit, indignum se profitens, cujus tectum_
Dominus _subiret, eumque honorifice in oratorio suo suscipere meruit.
Quare, Deo favente, sacra catholica majestas cooperari volens domui
huic praeeminentiae praerogativam concessit, etc._ This accident has
rendred _Didacus de Barias_ a meer Saint, and his house a most inviolable
sanctuary, in the esteem of the poor Spaniards. Tho our English merchants
well know him to be a rank Jew, who being therefore liable to death by
the law of Spain, was always forced to live under disguise, and now
gladly embraced this opportunity of passing for a zealot. The Jews indeed
have formerly been very insolent in Spain. One of the last instances
of which was a certain indignity of a shoemaker, who buried a crucifix
under the place, where his customers tried on their shoes, that by this
stratagem he might oblige Christians to stamp upon the cross. But this
nation being since banished that kingdom under the pain of the severest
death, they, who still covertly remain so, are obliged to profess
themselves of the popish faith, which they can do without any great
regret; it being easy to be of two religions, where both consist only in
external show and ceremonies.

The other memorable piece of superstition is to be observed in the
convent of the Capuchin friery, who within these three years have
acquired an extraordinary esteem, by means of a certain lady, who
acknowledged herself cured of a dangerous malady by virtue of their
intercession. This was an hint, which they thought very improvable;
and have therefore since set up for such a stock of merit, that their
cloister is already filled with waxen figures of legs, arms, heads,
women’s breasts, and other offerings, of so many maimed and distempered
persons, whom these Saints have restored by their peculiar interest
in heaven. One particularly, who was indebted to them for a more than
ordinary blessing, has erected a stately monument on that account, before
the entrance into their convent. It is an handsome Ionic pillar, made
of white marble, inrailed with a large square of stone, in the front of
which is a crucifix, and an image of the _Virgin_, under the title of
the _Triumphant Lady_. And this new figure is already become such an
idol, that the zealous gossips of the town will often approach it upon
their knees, at near the distance of a furlong.

Having been detained about a week at _Cadiz_, we set sail October 11,
1699, and by the favour of a fortunate west wind were advanced within
nine days near the entrance of the _Faro_ of _Messina_; where we lay
becalmed two or three days, under the island of _Stromboli_, as after
our departure from _Messina_ we did likewise under mount _Aetna_. Each
of these was an opportunity of entertaining our sight with the dreadful
curiosity of those burning mountains; where we observed the _crater_ of
both to cast up a continued pillar of smoke, and at repeated distances
a terrible red blaze of fire. Afterwards being favoured with a gentle
gale, a pilot came from the city to steer us thro the difficult strait
of _Scylla_ and _Charybdis_. Here I was curious to observe the situation
of these places, especially because the latter is used in a confused
and uncertain sense in classic authors. But upon a diligent view of the
place it self, and a companion of some clear expressions in antiquity,
the best judgment I could form of it was this, which follows. In
_Thucydides_[145], and other good historians, _Charybdis_ signifies
the whole strait betwixt _Sicily_ and _Calabria_; but in _Homer_[146],
_Virgil_[147], and other poets, it is restrained to that peculiar
whirlpool, which flows under the opposite rock of _Scylla_. Betwixt these
two we found the current so various, that our ship was obliged to stand
five or six different ways in a few minutes sailing; and at the same time
it was surprizing to hear the waves bubble in a continued hideous noise,
well expressed in the poets by the barking of dogs round the bowels of
_Scylla_.

As we lay at anchor at _Messina_, we were presented with a delightful
landskip, which the narrow winding of the _Faro_, the verdure of the
opposite shores, the wall, the citadel, and town itself afforded. The
front of the whole city is one continued pile of buildings, extending
three quarters of a mile in length, from the Viceroy’s house to that
called the _French bastion_. It intirely consists of free stone,
being raised four story high, adorned with carved windows, balconies,
battlements, and other ornaments, all answering to each other with an
exact regularity. No house has any doors to the sea, but the entrance
is at large gates, which front so many streets of the city, placed at
equal distances, and each of them inscribed with some religious device.
This range is contrived, as for ornament, so likewise for defence; it
being at the bottom of a prodigious thickness, so as to withstand a
siege, and decreasing proportionably towards the top. The whole running
in a bend, which is every where equidistant from the sea, represents a
curvilineal amphitheatre. The inner part of the city does not answer to
this magnificence of the front; tho there often occur many single pieces
of great art and curiosity. Such as the _King’s statue_ on horseback,
exactly resembling that of our late King _Charles_ at _Windsor_. The
_Statue_ of _Don John of Austria_, in memory of the victory obtained by
him at _Lepanto_ in 1571. The beautiful structure of a public _fountain_,
adorned at the bottom with four large and masterly figures, representing
_Nilus_, _Iberus_, _Tiber_, and _Euripus_. But more curious than the rest
is a figure of _Neptune_ on the mole, cast in solid brass, and attended
on each side with two very natural representations of the monsters
_Scylla_ and _Charybdis_.

But it was not so entertaining to observe these, as deplorable to see,
what St. _Paul_ bewailed at _Athens_, a city wholly given to idolatry
and superstition. It affords a melancholy consideration to any serious
spectator, to be witness to so many vain and hypocritical addresses made
to the images and altars, which abound in this deluded place. For this
brings the like scandal upon Christianity, as was so offensive under
the ranked heathenism, and too truly exposes the subjects of it to that
derision of _Lucretius_:

    _Nec pietas ulla est velatum saepe videri_
    _Vertier ad lapidem, et quascunque accedere ad aras_[148].

They are here furnished with nunneries and monasteries to the number
of sixty odd, most of which are loftily built, and add the greatest
grace to the structure of the city. In the college of _St. Nicholas_ I
observed the pictures of our five _Jesuits_, who were executed for the
popish plot, with a specious account when, and how, they were crowned
with martyrdom for the profession of the faith in _England_. In the
nunnery of _Sta. Maria della Scala_ they shew a stone sculpture of the
_Virgin_ and our _Savior_, which they verily beleive to have been taken
from the life. In the cathedral church there are twelve noble figures
of the _Apostles_, exquisitely carved in clear and costly marble. The
isle, which composes the body of the church, is ranged on each side with
thirteen stately pillars, twelve of which are antient of the Corinthian
order, brought formerly from a temple of _Neptune_, that stood near
the promontory _Pelórus_. There are here three gaudy altars, that want
nothing, which art or expence could contribute to adorn them; for below
they are set with work of _lapis lazuli_, and above are covered with
cupolas of true mosaic. But over the high altar, at the east end of the
cathedral, is preserved in golden characters, and embellished with a rich
variety of other ornaments, one of the greatest delusions in all popery.
It is a letter, which according to the tradition of this church was sent
to the _Messanians_ by the _B. Virgin_, upon their conversion by St.
_Paul_, soon after he touched at _Rhegium_. It is reasonably concise, and
therefore I shall venture to trouble you with the words, as faithfully
transcribed.

    _Maria Virgo, Joachim filia, Dei humillima, Christi Iesu
    crucifixi mater, ex tribu Juda, stirpe David, Messanensibus
    omnibus salutem, et Dei Patris Omnipotentis benedictionem._

    _VOS omnes fide magna legatos ac nuncios per publicum
    documentum ad nos misisse constat. Filium nostrum, Dei
    genitum, Deum et hominem esse fatemini, et in caelum post
    suam resurrectionem ascendisse_, Pauli _Apostoli electi
    praedicatione mediante, viam veritatis agnoscentes. Ob quod vos
    et ipsam civitatem benedicimus, cujus perpetuam protectricem
    nos esse volumus. Anno Filii nostri_ XLII. _Ind._ 1. 3 _nonas
    Junii_. _Luna_ XXVII. V. _Ex_ Hierosolymis.

                          Maria Virgo.

                         _Quae supra hoc chirographum approbavit._

You see, that he, who had the impudence to forge this imposture, had
likewise the stupidity to date it by two _epochas_, the latter of which
did not commence before the reign of _Constantine the Great_, and the
former not till that of _Justinian_. The Hebrew original they confess
not to be now extant. And as to this, which they call the authentic
translation, it would be impossible to beleive them serious in venting
so foul a cheat; but that they pompously expose it to all the world in
their metropolitan church, and celebrate it by a yearly feast, and public
rejoicings of a whole month’s continuance; that it has been confirmed by
repeated indulgences from the court of _Rome_; and that at the west end
of the church there are divers solemn inscriptions, importing, that in
some general calamities of _Sicily_, there particularly specified, the
_Virgin_ still protected her _Messina_, according to her most faithful
promise in the _Holy Letter_. This naturally brings to one’s mind the
antient devotion of the same place towards _Ceres_ and _Proserpina_, as
mentioned by _Cicero_, when he says: _Vetus est haec opinio, quae constat
ex antiquissimis Graecorum literis et monumentis, insulam Siciliam totam
esse Cereri et Proserpinae consecratam. Hoc cum ceterae gentes sic
arbitrantur; tum ipsis Siculis tam persuasum est, ut animis eorum insitum
et innatum esse videatur_[149]. It is to be wondered at, that these
people have not yet registered an accident, of which as to the fact our
English merchants were eye witnesses, namely; that in the late repeated
earthquakes of _Sicily_ in 1693 the tower of this cathedral, which stands
at the west end distinct from the body of the church, was so distorted
by one shock, that it stood very dangerously in an oblique declining
posture; but that about a week afterwards another shock restored it to
its former true perpendicular situation.

After five days spent in viewing these and other curiosities of
_Messina_, we set sail the thirtieth of October, and by the ninth of
the next month were obliged by contrary winds to stand into the port of
_Milo_. This isle, known to the antients by the name of _Melos_, and
esteemed the largest of all the _Cyclades_, is deservedly famous for its
fair and commodious harbour; which entring at a narrow chanel afterwards
enlarges itself circularly into a lake, rather than a bay; being
always calm, and spatious enough to receive a fleet of an hundred and
fifty sail. I went ashore at this place with the greater satisfaction,
considering that among other antiquities it lays claim to _Socrates_ and
_Aristophanes_. It has a city of the same name, inhabited at present,
like the other islands of the _Archipelago_, chiefly by Greek Christians,
who have been burthened in the late war by a cruel tax of sixteen
thousand dollars to the Venetians, as well as to the Turks; but by the
benefit of the present peace, as its tribute to the former wholly ceases,
so that to the latter is much mitigated. It is observable, that in every
cultivated feild about the town, there stands a small Greek chapel,
constantly adorned with the painted images of the _Virgin_ and _St.
George_; and thither the zealous women of the place often retire with
a priest, to say some supererogatory masses for the benefit of their
private relations, whether dead or living. In a cave on the island there
is a natural hot bath, which has proved very successful in many malignant
maladies. Walking on the strand I observed another of the same nature,
like that of _Licinius Crassus_, mentioned by Pliny, _Lib._ xxxi. _cap._
2. The heat of this was so great, that I could not bear to keep my hand
in it. The same shore affords a vein of black sand, of which we there
gathered a quantity very clear and beautiful for the use of writing.

After a stop of four or five days at _Milo_, we had a very entertaining
passage thro the isles of the _Archipelago_, and on the nineteenth of
the same month arrived, by God’s providence, in good health at _Smyrna_;
where I often remember, how many ways I stand indebted to you, which will
be always gratefully acknowledged by,

                             _Reverend Sir_,

                                   _Your_ etc.

                                                             E. CHISHULL.

_Smyrna, June 13, 1700._


_FINIS._

[Illustration]




FOOTNOTES


[1] ΤΕΜΕΝΟΣ.

[2] Deest forsan ΛΗΙΟΝ.

[3] De _Venere Stratonicide_ vid. _Tacit. Annal._ _Lib._ iii. _cap._ 63.

[4] Vid. ἱερὰ ὁδὸς, apud _Harpocrat._

[5] ΚΛΕΙΜΑΞ, _scalare_, de quo vide _Reines. Inscript. antiq. Class.
sept. num._ xvi.

[6] _Tartalée_ seems to be the _Mastusia_ of the antients, well describ’d
by _Pliny_, _Lib._ v. _cap._ 29, to lie _a tergo Smyrnae_.

[7] The _Two Brothers_ are two eminences of _Mons Corycus_, concerning
which see _Strabo_, _Lib._ xiv. p. 670.

[8] This practice of the Greek church, at the first elevation of the
elements, is what gives just offence both to the Roman and Reformed
churches; for tho of late they have generally embraced the doctrine of
transubstantiation, yet by this act they pay a divine worship to the
bread and wine even before this pretended conversion into the body and
blood of _Christ_. Not but that this observation may be well improved
to evince the novelty of this persuasion among the Greeks; and to shew,
that both these ceremonies were at first but a meer bodily respect to the
elements, and implied nothing of a divine adoration.

[9] To such as are not conceiv’d always worthy, or ready to communicate,
the Greeks after the celebration of their _Liturgy_ distribute the
ἀντίδωρον, or _bread barely blessed_, but not consecrated; which they
conceive to be a symbol of the body of the _Virgin Mary_, and to be given
instead of that of _Christ_.

[10]

    _Nec pulcher Ganges, atque auro turbidus Hermus,_
    _Laudibus Italiae certent._ Virg. Georg. ii. 137.

[11]

    _Non illi satis est turbato sordidus auro_
    _Hermus._ Mart. L. viii. Ep. 77.

[12] Liv. Lib. xxxvii. cap. 37. _Circa Magnesiam, quae ad Sipylum est,
posuit castra._ Idem cap. 44. _A Magnesia, quae ad Meandrum est, et ab
Epheso legati ad dedendas urbes venerunt._

[13] Καταφέρεται δ’ ὁ Πακτωλὸς εἰς Ἑρμὸν, εἰς ὃν καὶ ὁ Ὕλλος ἐμβάλλει,
νυνὶ Φρύγιος καλούμενος. Strabo, Lib. xiii. pag. 626.

[14] _Magnesia ad Sipylum, a qua magnes lapis ferrum attrahens nomen
sortitus est; ut idem a Lydia Lydius, et ab Heraclea Heraclius dictus
est._ Hill _in Dionys. Periegesin_. Tho he seems to be mistaken in
confounding this stone with the touchstone, or _lapis Lydius_.

[15] Nat. Hist. Lib. xxxvi. cap. 16.

[16]

    _Lapis hic ut ferrum ducere possit,_
    _Quem magneta vocant patrio de nomine Graii,_
    _Magnetum quia sit patriis in finibus ortus._ L. vi. ℣. 608.

[17] _Auri argentique mentionem comitatur lapis, quem coticulam
appellant; quondam non solitus inveniri nisi in flumine Tmolo, nunc vero
passim; quem alii Lydium, alii Heraclium vocant._ Plin. Lib. xxxiii. cap.
8.

[18] Like what _Aristides_ says: Ὁ φίλοινος οὐχ ἡγεῖται ζημίαν, εἰ μηδεὶς
αὐτῷ πίνοντι συνείσεται. Orat. Platonic. prim. pag. 182. edit. P. Steph.

[19] Liv. Lib. xxxvii. cap. 44. _Legati ab Thyatira et Magnesia ad
Sipylum ad reddendas urbes venerunt_, says this historian, immediately
after the action betwixt _Scipio_ and _Antiochus_. This action is at
large described by _Appian_ as well as _Livy_, as happening betwixt
_Thyatira_ and _Sardis_, upon the banks of the _Amnis Phrygius_, near
_Magnesia ad Sipylum_; which is not the _Hermus_ (as some have thought)
but a river running into the _Hermus_, which _Homer_ and _Herodotus_ call
_Hyllus_, as _Strabo_ relates in the passage cited above, _p._ 9.

[20] See _Marm. Oxon._ ed. ab H. Prid. pag. 1.

[21] This _Statius Quadratus_ was that very proconsul, in whose presence,
and by whose authority, _St. Polycarp_, bishop of _Smyrna_, was burnt
alive in the amphitheatre of that city. His name is falsely written
Τάτιος Κ. in the _Alexandrian Chronicle_, and Στράτιος in the _Epistle of
the church of Smyrna_. But this stone confirms that correction, which has
been made by bishop _Pearson_ and _Valesius_. It likewise favours that
learned argument maintained by bishop _Pearson_, Dissert. ii. cap. xvi,
xvii. pag. 291, by which he places this proconsulship and the martyrdom
of _St. Polycarp_ in the tenth year of _Antoninus Pius_, _A. C._ 147.
For in the fourth year of _M. Antoninus_, to which the _Alexandrian
Chronicle_ refers it; as also in the year 167, to which it is referred
by _Eusebius_ and _Valesius_; there were two _Caesars_, concerning whom
_Eutropius_ says: _Tunc primum Rom. respublica duobus aequo jure imperium
administrantibus paruit, cum usque ad eum singulos semper habuisset
Augustos._ Lib. viii. cap. 5. But this inscription mentions only one
_Caesar_, in the singular number. And as for that _Quadratus_, whom
_Bucherius_ and _Usserius_ will have proconsul in _Asia_ in the year
169, his name was not _Statius_, but _T. Numidius_. See also mention
of _Quadratus_ in _Aristidis Orat. Genethliac. in Apellam_; and in his
_Sermon. Sacror._ iv.

[22] Καὶ γάρ τ’ ἠΰκομος Νιόβη ἐμνήσατο σίτου, etc.

    Νῦν δέ που ἐν πέτρῃσιν, ἐν οὔρεσιν οἰοπόλοισιν
    Ἐν Σιπύλῳ, ὅθι φασὶ θεάων ἔμμεναι εὐνὰς
    Νυμφάων, αἵτ’ ἀμφ’ Ἀχελώϊον ἐῤῥώσαντο,
    Ἔνθα, λίθος πὲρ ἐοῦσα θεῶν ἐκ κήδεα πέσσει.

_Hom. Iliad._ ω. 602. On which passage the _Scholia_, usually ascribed to
_Didymus_, have the following remark: Θρηνοῦσαν οὖν τὴν Νιόβην ἀφάτως τὸ
τοιοῦτον δυστύχημα, Ζεὺς ἐλεήσας εἰς λίθον μετέβαλεν, ὃς καὶ μέχρι νῦν
ἐν Σιπύλῳ τῆς Φρυγίας ὁρᾶται παρὰ πάντων πηγὰς δακρύων προϊέμενος. And
_Pausanias_, _Attic._ _Lib._ i. _cap._ 21. says: Ταύτην τὴν Νιόβην καὶ
αὐτὸς εἶδον ἀνελθὼν ἐς τὸν Σίπυλον τὸ ὄρος. Ἥδε πλησίον μὲν πέτρα καὶ
κρημνός ἐστιν, οὐδὲν παρόντι σχῆμα παρεχόμενος γυναικὸς, οὔτε ἄλλως, οὔτε
πενθούσης· εἰ δέ γε ποῤῥωτέρω γένοιο, δεδακρυμένην δόξεις ὁρᾷν καὶ κατηφῆ
γυναῖκα.

[23] Plin. Lib. v. cap. 29. _A Smyrna Hermus amnis campos facit, et
nomini suo adoptat; oritur juxta Dorglaeum Phrygiae civitatem, multosque
colligit fluvios, inter quos Hyllum et Cryon._

[24] See mention of these by _Herodian_, under the name of πολυάνδρια, in
his description of that massacre of the Alexandrians by Caracalla, _Lib._
iv. _cap._ 17. _edit. Oxon._

[25] The sense of the word _barrows_ or _burroughs_ is by _Verstegan_
deduced from _burying_, and therefore well answers the Greek πολυάνδρια.
Chap. vii. p. 211.

[26] Thus Lucan, _Stetit aggere fultus Cespitis_. Lib. v. ℣. 316.

And _Tacitus_, Annal. L. i. cap. 17. _Congerunt cespites._ See _Lipsii
not._

[27] Ὅς σφι ψῆγμα χρυσοῦ καταφορέων ἐκ τοῦ Τμώλου διὰ μέσης τῆς ἀγορῆς
ῥέει, καὶ ἔπειτα ἐς τὸν Ἕρμον ποταμὸν ἐκδιδοῖ, ὁ δὲ ἐς θάλασσαν. _Lib._
v. _cap._ 101. And _Strabo_ says, _Lib._ xiii. _p._ 625. Ῥεῖ δ’ ὁ
Πακτωλὸς ἀπὸ τοῦ Τμώλου, καταφέρων τὸ παλαιὸν χρυσοῦ ψῆγμα πολύ· ἀφ’ οὗ
τὸν Κροίσου λεγόμενον πλοῦτον, καὶ τῶν προγόνων αὐτοῦ διονομασθῆναί φασί.

[28]

    _Passaque ab auriferis tellus exire metallis_
    _Pactolon, qua culta secat non vilior Hermus._ Lucan. Lib. iii. ℣. 209.

[29] Lib. xxxvi. cap. 14. _Summa miracula, epistylia tantae molis attolli
potuisse_, etc. See mention of this difficulty in Wotton’s _Reflections
upon ancient and modern learning_, pag. 67. edit. 1694.

[30] _Epistolae quatuor_, _pag._ 136, 137.

[31] Ἕρμος, says _Strabo_, Lib. xiii. pag. 626. ἐξ ὄρους ἱεροῦ τῆς
Δινδυμένης εἰς τὴν Σαρδιανὴν φέρεται, κατὰ τὰ συνεχῆ πεδία, μέχρι τῆς
θαλάττης.

[32]

    _Iliad._ β′. ℣. 863 Τὼ Γυγαίη τέκε λίμνη,
    Oἳ καὶ Μῄονας ἦγον ὑπὸ Τμώλῳ γεγαῶτας.

[33] Ἐν δὲ σταδίοις τεσσαράκοντα ἀπὸ τῆς πόλεως ἐστὶν ἡ Γυγαία μὲν ὑπὸ
τοῦ ποιητοῦ λεγομένη. _Strab._ ubi supra.

[34] Ὑπέρκειται τῶν Σάρδεων ὁ Τμῶλος, εὔδαιμον ὄρος. _Strabo_, Lib. xiii.
pag. 625.

[35]

    Ovid. Met. Lib. xi. ℣. 150. _Riget arduus alto_
    _Tmolus in ascensu; clivoque extensus utroque_
    _Sardibus hinc, illinc parvis finitur Hypaepis._

Ὕπαιπα δὲ πόλις ἐστὶ καταβαίνουσιν ἀπὸ τοῦ Τμώλου εἰς τὸ τοῦ Καΰστρου
πεδίον. Lib. xiii. pag. 627.

[36] Ὁ μέν γε Τμῶλος ἱκανῶς συνῆπται, καὶ περιγραφὴν ἔχει μετρίαν,
ἐν αὐτοῖς ἀφοριζόμενος τοῖς Λυδίοις μέρεσιν· ἡ δὲ μεσόγαιος εἰς
τὸ ἀντικείμενον μέρος διατείνει μέχρι Μυκάλης. _L._ xiii. p. 629.
And a little after: Τῷ δὴ Καῦστριανῷ πεδίῳ μεταξὺ πίπτοντι τῆς τε
Μεσωγειότητος, καὶ τοῦ Τμώλου, συνεχές ἐστι πρὸς ἑὼ τὸ Κιλβιανὸν πεδίον.

[37] The modern name _Tyria_ well answers to the antient Τυριαῖον which
_Xenophon_ mentions as a well inhabited city, not far from Καΰστρου
πεδίον. _De expedit. Cyri_, L. i.

[38] Lib. v. cap. 29. _Ephesus alluitur Cäystro, in Cilbianis jugis orto,
multosque amnes deferente, et stagnum Pegasaeum, quod Phyrites amnis
expellit._

[39] This is plain from _Strabo_, who having finished his account of
_Ephesus_, and proceeding from thence towards _Smyrna_, says, Εἶτα τὸ
Γαλλήσιον ὄρος, καὶ ἡ Κολοφὼν, _etc._ Lib. xiv. pag. 642.

[40] This likewise appears from _Strabo_, who tells us, that betwixt
_Erythrae_, or the western part of that cape land, and the _isthmus_,
which joins the same cape land to the continent, stands the mountain
_Mimas_. Μεταξὺ τῶν Ἐρυθρῶν καὶ τοῦ ὑποκρήμνου Μίμας ἐστὶν, ὄρος ὑψηλόν.
_Ibid._ _pag._ 645.

[41] Chap. vi. ℣. 5. _De Joannis autographo, Ephesi servato, vid. Pfaffii
Dissert._ p. 154.

[42] Οἱ ἐξ Ἐφέσου εἰς Σάρδις εἰσὶ τεσσεράκοντα καὶ πεντακόσιοι στάδιοι.
_Herodot._ Lib. v. cap. 54.

[43] The mountains, that enclose the city and plain of _Ephesus_, are
_Gallesius_ to the north, _Mycale_ to the south, and _Pactyas_ to the
east.

[44] _Ephesus attollitur monte Pione, alluitur Caystro._ Plin. Lib. v.
cap. 29.

[45] Concerning this church see _Procopii_ Ἀνέκδοτα, _p._ 12. and Ἰουστ.
Κτισμ. _pag._ 45, where it is said to have been rebuilt by an order from
_Justinian_.

[46] See F. Simon’s _Histoire critique de la creance et des coûtumes des
nations du Levant_, chap. 7, 8.

[47] Plin. _Lib._ xxxvi. _c._ 14. _In solo id palustri fecere._ And
_Lib._ v. _c._ 29. _Templum Dianae complexi e diversis regionibus duo
Selenuntes_, that is, two _Selenusian_ lakes.

[48] Strabo, _Lib._ xiv. _pag._ 639, _et_ 642. Εἶτα Πύγελα πολίχνιον
(which now is called _Scala Nova_) εἶτα λιμὴν Πάνορμος καλούμενος, ἔχων
ἱερὸν τῆς Ἐφεσίας Ἀρτέμιδος· εἶθ’ ἡ πόλις. And again: Μετὰ δὲ τὴν ἐκβολὴν
τοῦ Καΰστρου λίμην ἐστὶν ἐκ τοῦ πελάγους ἀναχεομένη· καλεῖται δὲ
Σεληνουσία, καὶ ἐφεξῆς ἄλλη σύῤῥους αὐτῇ.

[49] These particulars, as collected out of several authors, are to be
seen in _Supplem. in Q. Curt._ _Lib._ ii. _cap._ 7.

[50] See these and other particulars in _Plin._ _Lib._ xxxvi. _cap._ 14.

[51] This is the face of the moon _aspide cincta comas_. See _Thes. Rom.
Ant._ _Vol._ v. _p._ 779.

[52] Herodian. _Lib._ I. _cap._ 39. Ἡ δὲ πρεσβυτάτη τῶν Κομμόδου ἀδελφῶν
(Φαδίλλα ἦν ὄνομα αὐτῇ) εἰσδραμοῦσα, _etc._

See likewise _Grut._ _pag._ MLXVI, _n._ 13. and _Fabrett._
_Inscriptiones_, _pag._ 746.

[53] _Pag._ 255. But the reader may see it more perfect in the few
sheets, which were printed, of the second part of _Antiq. Asiat._

[54] See pag. 254.

[55] Ἐξ Ἐφέσου μέχρι Σμύρνης ὁδός ἐστιν ἐπ’ εὐθείας τριακόσιοι εἴκοσι
στάδιοι· εἰς γὰρ Μητρόπολιν ἑκατὸν καὶ εἴκοσι στάδιοι, οἱ λοιποὶ δὲ εἰς
Σμύρναν. Strab. Lib. xiv. p. 632.

[56] Lib. v. cap. 29. _Ephesus alluitur Câystro multos amnes deferente,
et stagnum Pegasaeum, quod Phyrites amnis expellit._

[57] _Mitylene_, made more remarkable for those words of the _Lesbians_
to _Pompey_, then fled hither:

    _Fac, Magne, locum, quem cuncta revisant_
    _Saecula, quem veniens hospes Romanus adoret._
                        Lucan. Lib. viii. ℣. 114.

[58] See _Strab._ _Lib._ xiii. _pag._ 615.

[59] Hence _Virgil_, _Culic._ ℣. 312.

    _Omnis ut in cineres Rhoetei litoris ora,_
    _Classibus ambustis, flamma superante, daretur._

See likewise _Xenoph._ _Hist. Graec. L._ i. _in prin._ ὡς ἤνοιγε περὶ τὸ
Ῥοίτειον. And _P. Mel._ L. i. c. 18. _Extra sinum sunt Rhoetea littora._

[60] Lib. viii. p. 599. Οὐδὲν ἴχνος σώζεται τῆς ἀρχαίας πόλεως.

And in like manner, _Lucan_, _Lib._ ix. ℣. 968.

                      _Tota teguntur_
    _Pergama dumetis, et jam periere ruinae._

[61] _Polybius_ makes the breadth of the _Hellespont_ here to be no more
than two furlongs, _Lib._ xvi. _p._ 735.

[62] In some modern prints _Aidos_. The most memorable siege of this
place by king _Philip_ of _Macedon_ is related by _Livy_, _Lib._ xxxi.
_cap._ 17.

[63] Γενόμενος δὲ μεταξὺ Τρωάδος καὶ τῆς ἀρχαίας Ἰλίου, καὶ τόπον εὑρὼν
εἰς πόλεως κατασκευήν ἐπιτήδειον, θεμελίους τε ἐπήξατο, καὶ τείχους τὶ
μέρος εἰς ὕψος ἀνέστησεν· ὅπερ ἄχρι νῦν ὁρᾷν ἔνεστι ἐπὶ τὸν Ἑλλήσποντον
πλέουσιν. Zosim. Lib. ii. pag. 105. ed. Oxon.

[64] _Europamque Asiae, Sestonque admovit Abydo._ Lucan. Lib. ii. ℣. 674.

[65] _Lib._ xiii. _pag._ 59.

[66] _Her. et Leand._ ℣. 23, 24.

[67] _Callipolis quoque ac Madytos dedita, et castella quaedam
ignobilia._ Liv. Lib. xxxi. cap. 16.

[68] Lib. xiii. p. 589. Ἡ Λάμψακος ἐπὶ θαλάττῃ πόλις ἐστὶν εὐλίμενος καὶ
ἀξιόλογος. Et mox: Ἐν τῇ στεῤῥᾷ τῆς Χεῤῥονήσου πολίχνιον ἐστὶ Καλλίπολις.

[69] Concerning these monuments particularly see _Gyllius_,
_Constantinop. topogr._ _Lib._ ii. _c._ 12, 13.

[70] Concerning the interpretation of which, together with an history
of the _Rom. obelisks_, see _Ammian. Marcell._ _Lib._ xvii. _c._ 4, and
_Smith_, _Constantinop. brev. notit._ _p._ 117.

[71] Πρόκλῳ in Anthologia, _Lib._ iv. _p._ 488.

[72] See _Zosim._ _Lib._ iv. _p._ 265.

[73] See _Cang. Constant. Christian._ _Lib._ ii. _pag._ 105.

[74] _L._ i. _p._ 34. of his _Travels._

[75] Concerning these see _Pliny_, _Lib._ iv. _cap._ 13.

[76] See _Gruter_, _pag._ ccxxviii, and _Wheler_, _pag._ 207.

[77] See _Du Fresne_, _Glossar. Graec. Tab._ i. _oper. praemiss._

[78] This is part of an epigram, Εἰς Διομήδους τάφον, Antholog. _Lib._
vi. _p._ 563.

[79] _Lib._ iii. ℣. 277. Concerning the current of the _Maeotis_ see
_Polybius_, _Lib._ iv. _p._ 307; and of that at _Gades_, Mr. _Halley’s
Discourse_ in _Le Clerc’s Physic._ _L._ ii. _c._ 8.

[80] Concerning the antient situation of _Chalcédon_ see _Zosim._ _L._
ii. _p._ 100, and of this church, _L._ v. _p._ 314, and _Evagr._ _L._ ii.
_c._ 3.

[81] _Lib._ ii. _pag._ 106.

[82] For _Valentinian’s_ building these aqueducts see _Socrates_ by
_Valesius_, and _Niceph._ _Constantin. Hist._ _vol._ ii. _p._ 418.

[83] In his _Chronicon_.

[84] _Book_ i. _pag._ 34.

[85] In relation to this inscription the medal of _Belisarius_ may be
observed, on the reverse of which are the words DEVICTIS GOTHIS.

[86] See Eusebius’s _Life of Constantine_.

[87] An account of the like rich marble work may be seen in _Stat._
_Sylv._ _Lib._ i. _c._ 5. where he describes the bath of _Claudius
Etruscus_.

[88] The particulars of each are described in the exact and faithful
account of _Grelot_, which may be compared with that of _Procopius_.

[89] _Eclog._ vi. _vers._ 43.

[90] Pag. 232 of his _Travels_.

[91] Idem forsan ac σαββατείῳ apud _Joseph. Antiq. Jud. edit. Oxon. p.
722. l. ult._

[92] ΕΦ Ω. vid. _Grut._ _pag._ DCCXLIX. _num. 4._

[93] Αυδηνᾶιος, ὄνομα μηνὸς παρὰ Μακεδόσιν, ὁ Ἰανουάριος. _Suidas._

[94] In this inscription the Ι is always added to the last vowel of the
dative singular, which in small letters is now usually placed under it.

[95] _Lib._ xxxvii.

[96] Vid. _Marmor. Oxon._ p. 297, _ed. Prid._

[97] By this and the following inscription we find, there were several
schools here, where young persons were trained up to athletic exercises
in honour of _Hercules_. For as _Lipsius_ observes, _Saturnal. Serm._
_L._ iii. _c._ 23. _Athletis et gladiatoribus Hercules praeesse
putabatur, qui facta ejus et robur aemularentur. De athletis lapis
Graecus Romae indicat; in quo aliquoties nominati_, οἱ περὶ τὸν Ἡρακλέα
ἀθληταὶ, id est, _Herculanei athletae_. So in other inscriptions we have
οἱ περὶ τὸν Διόνυσον τεχνῖται, artists employed in the rites of _Bacchus_.

[98] In this inscription the Ι is added to the last vowel of the dative
case, as in that above, pag. 53.

[99] _Iliad._ γ. ℣. 339.

[100] See _Strabo_, _Lib._ xii. _pag._ 550.

[101] See _Homer_, _Iliad._ β. _in catalog._ ℣. 335.

[102] This river must be the _Granicus_, which seems to bend its course
towards the _Peninsula_ of _Cyzicus_.

[103] While I was absent from the _conáck_, some Turks brought medals
to be sold, which I lost the opportunity of purchasing, because Mr.
Farington suspected them to be spies.

[104] Ἔπλευσαν ἐς Αἰγὸς ποταμοὺς, ἀντίον τῆς Λαμψάκου, διεῖχε δὲ ὁ
Ἑλλήσποντος ταύτης σταδίους ὡς πεντεκαίδεκα. _Hist. Graec. L._ ii. _p._
455. _edit. Leunclav._

[105] _Pag._ 42.

[106] The _Hebrus_ is large and full in winter, yet carries but a slow
stream, which in the summer time is scarce able to flow. Hence _Ovid._
Heroid. ii. ℣. 115.

    _Et sacer admissas exigit Hebrus aquas._

But _Virgil_, who, as appears from his geography of _Troy_, was not so
well acquainted with these parts, says: Aen. i. ℣. 321.

    _Volucremque fuga praevertitur Hebrum._

[107] _Zosimus_, Lib. ii. p. 95. ed. Oxon. Καθ’ ὃ τωνος εειος ποταμὸς τῷ
Ἑβρῳ συμβάλλει.

[108] _Ibidem._

[109] See _Pythagorae Symbolum_, Προσκυνεῖν περιφερόμενος, _apud Lil.
Gyrald. Tom._ ii. _p._ 669. _edit._ 1696.

[110] So _Justin_ describing the rites of Bacchus, with which the
soldiers of _Alexander_ were inspired says: _Exercitus ejus repentino
impetu mentis in sacros dei ululatus instinctus, cum stupore regis, sine
noxa discurrit._ Lib. xii. c. 7.

[111] See this sect described, and called _Tzophilar_, by Hottinger,
_Hist. orient. pag._ 365.

[112] Concerning the longevity of the _Aemimontian_ Thracians see _Amm.
Marc. L._ xxvii. _c._ 4.

[113] Here I happily attained that wish of _Virgil_, Georg. Lib. ii. ℣.
488.

    _O, qui me gelidis in vallibus Haemi_
    _Sistat, et ingenti ramorum protegat umbra!_

[114] _Suam quisque domum spatio circundat, sive adversus casus ignis
remedium, sive inscitia aedificandi. Ne caementorum apud illos, aut
tegularum usus._ Tacit. De m. G. c. xvi.

[115] Aur. Victor. Epit. cap. XL. _Galerius ortus Dacia Ripensi, quem
locum Romulianum ex vocabulo Romulae matris appellarat._

[116] The Sclavonian character is twofold; one said to be invented by
_St. Hierom_, which is now used by the Rascians and Bosnians; the other
by _St. Cyril_, proper to Valachia, Moldavia, Muscovy, _&c._

[117] This inscription was first published by _Reinesius_, _Class._ vi.
_n._ 90. and from him by _Sponius_, _Miscell. erud. antiq._ _p._ 294. But
both of them vary somewhat from the reading here given.

[118] It is probable these stones might all come from _Ulpia Trajana_,
formerly called _Sarmazegethusa_, concerning which see _Zamosius_, in
_Analect. Antiq. Transyl._ _c._ 4.

[119] Ovid. ad Liviam, ℣. 387.

    _Danubiusque rapax, et Dacius orbe remoto_
    _Apulus, huic hosti per breve Pontus iter._

[120] Sabina, NOVA CERES; _et_ Julia Pia, NOVA VESTA: _Bonarot. Observ._
_p._ 4. NYMPHAE AVGVSTAE, _Spon_, _Recherch. d’Antiq. Diss._ xxix. p.
481. Saxopol. in Dacia, NYMPHIS SALVTIFERIS SACRVM.

[121] In libello inscript. _Analecta lap. Transylv. prov._ legitur
RVFFINVS, sed reclamante lapide.

[122] In Latin _Enyedinum_, or _Aniadinum_, from the _via Annia_,
mentioned in an inscription in _Zamosius_, _c._ v.

[123] Forte COLON, AP. ut in _Zamosii Inscript._ _cap._ 7. COL. APVL. et
COLONIAE APVLENSIS.

[124] Forte CENOTAPHIVM.

[125] The like cyphers I afterwards saw at _Vienna_, near _Porta Rubra_;
where I took notice of the following date, [Illustration], which in our
modern characters is 1467.

[126] His designed ransom, after his death in Poland, was unjustly
detained in this province.

[127] Concerning the antient characters of the Siculians, and their
manner of writing downwards like the Sinese, see _Zamos._ c. 3.

[128] So great is the aversion of these _Valachs_ to the killing of
calves, that to redeem one taken by General _Robutin_, they offered him
the choice of all their children.

[129] See pag. 92.

[130] _Veste non fluitante, sed stricta, et singulos artus exprimente._
Tacitus De moribus Germanorum, cap. xvii.

[131] So Martial, Spectac. Epigr. 3. _Crinibus in nodum tortis venere
Sicambri._

And Tacitus says the like of the _Suevi_, De morib. Germ. c. 38. _Insigne
gentis obliquare crinem, nodoque substringere._

[132] This trial of water, as well as that of fire, is authorized by the
laws of _Ladislaus_, King of Hungary. _Decret. S. Ladislai_, _Lib._ ii.
_cap._ 28.

[133] _Est in Africa consuetudo incolarum, ut in agris, et in omnibus
fere villis, sub terra specus condendi frumenti gratia clam habeant;
atque id propter bella maxime, hostiumque subitum adventum praeparent_:
De bello Africano, cap. 65.

[134] _Travels into divers parts of Europe_, p. 145.

[135] Vid. _Plin._ _Lib._ xxviii. _c._ i. et _Harduin._ in loc.

[136] _Lib._ ii. _cap._ 96 _et_ 114.

[137] See _Imhof._ _Lib._ x. _cap._ 16.

[138] _Spon_, who has published this inscription, observes, that by these
QVADRIBIS might be meant, _seminumina quadriviis praesidentia; quales in
biviis et triviis_ Hermi _seu_ Mercurii _ab antiquis culti_. Miscell.
erud. antiq. pag. 84.

[139] Vid. Apul. De Iside: _Cujus numen unicum multiformi specie, ritu
vario, nomine multijuge totus veneratur orbis._ Metam. Lib. ii. pag. 280.

[140] See an instance of this in _Sweden_, reported in the _Huetiana_, p.
124. N. LIV.

[141] Ovid. Fast. L. i. ℣. 205.

    _Nec pudor in stipula placidam cepisse quietem,_
    _Et foenum capiti supposuisse, fuit._

[142] These two are published both in _Grut._ but each of them with some
little variation. _pag._ CCCLII, _n._ 5. and _Fleetwood_, _pag._ 152.

[143] ΟΦΡ ΑΝ ΕΣ ΑΔΩ.

[144] _Cap._ 17.

[145] _Lib._ iv. _parag._ 24.

[146] _Odyss._ M. ℣. 235.

[147] _Aen._ iii. ℣. 420.

[148] _Lib._ v. ℣. 1197.

[149] _In Verr._ iv. _cap._ 48.




_ERRATA._


    Page 15. line 5. read _Achmetléer_.
         24.      4.      not.
         44.     29.      _Aurátbasar_.
         76.     13.      _alaí chiaush_.
         77.     28.      _lilia_.
         88.     33.      thither.
         92.     29.      _Judex_.
         93.     32.      _Banti_.
        108.      9.      _Glychensberg_.
        133.     20.      _Ferdinand_.
        142.     20.      by.
        168.     10.      ALIAM.

Transcriber’s Note: The errata have been corrected. Originals read:
_Achmetcléar_; nor; _Aarátbasar_; _alaí, chiaush_; _lillia_; hither;
_jndex_; _Banfi_; _Glychebsberg_; _Ferdinard_; be; AILAM.




[Illustration]




AN INDEX of NAMES and THINGS.


  A.

  ABAFFI, a prince of _Valachia_, Pag. 89.

  ABYDOS, see ESKI NATOLIA HISAR.

  ACHMETLEER, a village on the road from _Smyrna_ to _Sardis_, 15.

  ACHMET GERAI _Sultan_, a Tartar prince, 73.

  ACHMET _Sultan_, his mosque at _Constantinople_ described, 40, 45, 64.

  ADRAMYTTIAN _gulph_, made by the two promontories of _Cana_ and _Lecton_,
      33.

  ADRASTIAN PLAINS, so called from the town _Adrastia_ in _Mysia Major_,
      52.

  ADRIANOPLE, by the Turks called _Edrine_, a city of _Thrace_ on the
      river _Hebrus_, described, 63.

  ADULTERY, what proof it requires in _Transylvania_, 104.

  AESEPVS, now SIMOW, a river flowing into the _Propontis_, 52, 58.

  AETNA, a burning mountain in _Sicily_, described, 173.

  AGA, a name of respect among the Turks, which properly signifies _lord_
      or _master_; from the modern Greek word ἀγὰς, as some have thought,
      9.
    It is also an additional title given to several officers, who attend
      the _Grand Signior_, 69

  ΑΓΙΑ ΠΥΛΗ, or the _sacred curtain_, which incloses the choir in the
      Greek churches, 42.

  AGRIA, a city in _Hungary_, 108.

  AIASALUCK, see EPHESUS.

  AKHISAR, see THYATIRA.

  ALAI CHIAUSH, a messenger of ceremony, 76.

  ALAI KIOSK, a pleasure house of the _Grand Signior_ in the great
      _seraglio_ at _Constantinople_, described, 45.

  ALANY, a village in _Hungary_, possessed chiefly by General
      _Glychensberg_, 108.

  ALBA JULIA, see WISSENBURG.

  ALCYONIVS, his book _De exilio_, said to be compiled out of _Cicero’s_
      treatise _De gloria_, 143.

  ALEXANDER _Sanctus_, his bones carried in procession at _Vienna_, 124.

  ALCKMAIR, a town in _North Holland_, 168.

  ALLAH, a name of _God_ among the Turks, 71.
    See _D’Herbelot_.

  ALLALMALEE, a Christian village in _Thrace_, 62.

  ALMASCH, a river in _Transylvania_, 97.

  ALMELOO, a town in _Overissel_, 161.

  ALONIA, an island in the _Propontis_, famous for excellent wines, 37.

  ALSLEBER, a town in _Upper Saxony_, 146.

  ALSTER, a river, which runs into the _Elbe_ at _Hamburg_, 152.

  ALT, a river in _Transylvania_, 89.

  ALTENA, a town near _Hamburg_, subject to the king of _Denmark_, 154,
      156.

  ALUTA, see ALT.

  ALYMAN, a mountain in _Ionia_ betwixt _Ephesus_ and the village
      _Giamobasy_, probably _Mons Gallesius_ of the antients, 21.

  AMASIA, see EMS.

  AMERSFORD, a town in the province of _Utrecht_, 162, 169.

  AMMAN _Dr._ taught deaf and dumb persons to speak at _Harlem_, 167.

  ANATOLIA, see NATOLIA.

  ANTIOCHVS _King_, where defeated by _Scipio Asiaticus_, 53.

  ANTONINVS _Marcus_, the Emperor, died at _Vindobona_, 125.

  APAMEA, see MONTAGNIA.

  APOLLONIA ad _Rhyndacum_, see ULUBAT.

  APVLVM, see WISSENBURG.

  AQUEDUCTS of _Constantinople_ described, 43.

  ARABIC _figures_, their form, as expressed in a date 1477 at
      _Clausenburg_; and 1467 at _Vienna_, 97.

  ARANYAS, antiently _Chrysolas_, a river in _Transylvania_, 96.

  ARCADIVS the _Emperor_, his pillar at _Constantinople_ described, 44.

  ARCHBISHOP of _Vienna_, his behaviour at a procession, 125.

  ARGINVSAE, see MUSCONISIA.

  ARGISCH, a river of _Bulgaria_ runing into the _Danube_, 77.

  ARGURON, a Muscovian bird, 68.

  ARMS of _France_, see FLIES.

  ARNOUTCUI, a village in _Bulgaria_, 76.

  ARNSWOLDT, a wood in _Lower Saxony_, with a poor inn described there,
      159.

  AROKSZALLES, a popish village in _Hungary_, 108.

  ASCHERSLEBEN, a town in _Upper Saxony_, 146.

  ATHOS, a mountain in _Macedonia_, 33.

  ATMEIDAN, the Turkish name for the _hippodromus_, or _cirque_, at
      _Constantinople_, 44.

  AUGUSTINES, their convent at _Vienna_, 117.

  AURATBASAR, a place at _Constantinople_, which signifies the _market
      of women_, where stands an antient historical pillar, with a Greek
      inscription upon it, 44.

  AUSTRIA, divided from _Hungary_ by the river _Leyta_, 114.
    And from _Moravia_ by the _Teya_, 131.


  B.

  BABA, the name of a cape, formerly called _Lecton_, in the _Aegean_
      sea, 33.

  BABITZ, a town in _Austria_, 132.

  BABO, _Count_ of _Abensberg_, his numerous ofspring, 125.

  BADEN, a town near _Vienna_, celebrated for its baths, 126.
    Their manner of making wine, enclosing vineyards, and drawing
      carriages, 128.
    Their custom upon the death of any animal, _ib._

  BAJAZET _Sultan_, his mosque at _Constantinople_, 40.
    And at _Adrianople_, 64.

  BAIN, a small _Saxon_ brass coin, somewhat more than our farthing,
      current in _Valachia_, 85.

  BALASFALVA, a town in _Transylvania_, 94.

  BALASHAZA, a town in _Transylvania_, 97.

  BALIHISAR, a town of _Mysia Minor_, 52.

  BANDIERA, a _banner_ or _standard_, 81.

  BANTI _Count_, governor of _Wissenburg_, 93.
    His present to L. Paget, 96.

  BARICLE, a village on the road from _Smyrna_ to _Sardis_, 15.

  BARROWS, or _hillocks_, in _Ionia_, between _Durguthli_ and _Sardis_,
      remarkable for their number and figure, 14.

  BARUT AGA, a Turkish officer, who has the charge of the gunpowder, 32.
    His treatment of captain Winter, 38.

  BASHA, an additional title given to such officers, as attend the
      _Grand Signior_, 45, 66, 67.

  BASIRE _Doctor_, prebendary of _Durham_, professed divinity at
      _Wissenburg_ during the troubles in England, 95.
    Left his _Itinerary_ there in manuscript, _ib._

  BASSARABAS _Joannes Constantinus_, prince of _Valachia_, his character
      and family, 78.
    His palace at _Bucurest_, 79.
    He entertains L. Paget, _ib._
    His palace at _Tergovist_, 82.

  BATHS at _Prusia_ described, 50.
    Near _Buda_, 111.
    At _Baden_, 126.
    In the island _Milo_, 177.

  BATKAN, a river flowing from mount _Haemus_ in _Thrace_, 75.

  BEAVER, one at _Neugebac_ described, 118.

  BEEMSTER, a place in _North Holland_, 168.

  BEES, see FLIES.

  BEHEMERWALT, see SYLVA HERCYNIA.

  BEHEMISH _language_, a dialect of the _Sclavonian_, 133.

  BELGRADE, a village in _Thrace_ near _Constantinople_, 43.

  ΒΗΜΑ, the _chancel_ in Greek churches, 81.

  BENEDICTINES, their convent at _Vienna_, 117.

  BEY, a Turkish word, signifying _lord_, 60.

  BIBLE, a ms. in the _German_ language, with a remarkable picture, in
      the Imperial library at _Vienna_, 119.
    Another in old _English_; a third of _St. Jerome’s_, written by
      _Abbas Gaufridus Vitulus_; with a _Greek Testament_, and two
      printed copies, which all want the remarkable passage in the
      first _Epistle_ of _St. John_; an _Aethiopic Testament_ ms; a
      roll of the _Pentateuch_, as now used by the Jews; and a _vulgate
      Latin Bible_, printed by _Aldus_, with a remarkable reading: all
      in the Duke’s library at _Wolfembutel_, 148.

  BIESKE, a village in _Hungary_, 111.

  BIRGHEE, a town near mount _Tmolus_ in _Ionia_, 18.

  BITIN, a town in _Bohemia_, the estate of Prince _Lobcowitz_, 138.

  BLANKENESS, a village in _Lower Saxony_, 159.

  BLANYAN or BRANYAN, a town in _Bohemia_, 133, 134.

  BLEW KIOSK, a pleasure house of the _Grand Signior_, in the great
      _seraglio_ at _Constantinople_, 45.

  BOCLEW, a river in _Mysia minor_, 59.

  BOET C., a famous painter in enamel at _Vienna_, 130.

  BOGAZ, a _strait_, or narrow sea, between two lands. Also an _isthmus_,
      or neck of land, between two seas, 33.

  BOHAIMTSBRODT, a town in _Bohemia_, 134.

  BOHEMIA, separated from _Moravia_ by the river _Iglaw_, 132.
    From _Saxony_ near the town _Peterswaldt_, 139.

  BOIAK DERVENT, a town in _Thrace_, 73.

  BOIUKDERE, a town near _Constantinople_, signifying the _great vale_, 47.

  BOKLAR, a Turkish village in _Bulgaria_, 75.

  BONPOURNICKEL, a sort of black bread used in _Lower Saxony_, 160.

  BOROSNYAI _Joannes Nagy_, an _Hungarian_ divine, 92, 93.

  BOSPHORVS, by the Turks called _Bogas_, flows constantly into the
      _Propontis_, 38, 42.

  BOSTANGI BASHA, the _Grand Signior’s_ chief gardiner, and keeper of
      the palace at _Constantinople_, 45.

  BOTH, a river in _Hungary_, 108.

  BOURG, a palace in _Vienna_ so called, 117.

  BOY born at _Rigetsch_ in _Austria_ without legs or thighs, but healthy
      and lively, 129.

  BOZACGEE, a village in the _Adrastian_ plains, 59.

  BOZOK, a Turkish drink, described, 62.

  BOZZA, a river, which rises between _Valachia_ and _Transylvania_, 86.

  BRAN, a castle on the borders of _Transylvania_, described, 86.

  BREMEN, the chief city of the Dutchy so called, and a _Hanse_ town, in
      _Lower Saxony_, 156, 157.
    Described, 160.

  BREVICVLVS _de nationibus Transylvanicis_, the title of a book so
      called, 91.

  BRIDGES, one of stone at _Uzunkuprée_ described, 62.
    A wooden one of four hundred paces over the _Danube_ between _Vienna_
      and _Entzersdorff_, 131.
    A stone one at _Prague_ described, 134, 137.
    In _Bohemia_ usually covered with a penthouse, 138.
    One at _Dresden_, 139.
    Another at _Misten_, cross the _Elbe_, 140.

  BRUNSWICK, the chief city of that dutchy, described, 149.
    Their way of making mum, _ib._

  BUCUREST, a town in _Valachia_, 81.
    Its streets floored with plank, 82.

  BUDA, the metropolis of _Hungary_, described, 109, 110.
    Its government, 111.

  BUDWITZ, a town in _Austria_, on the borders of _Bohemia_, 132.

  BULGARIA, antiently _Moesia Inferior_, divided from _Thrace_ by mount
      _Haemus_, 75.
    The soil rich, but the people poor, 76.
    Separated from _Valachia_ by the _Danube_, 77.

  BUXTCHUDE, a town in _Lower Saxony_, in the dominion of _Sweden_, 159.


  C.

  CADI, a Turkish officer, properly a justice, 6.

  CADILESKER, a lord chief justice among the Turks; of which there are
      two, one for _Europe_, and the other for _Asia_, 66.

  CADIZ, in _Spain_, described, 170.
    Remarkable instances of superstition there, 171.

  CAFTAN, a vest or garment of honour among the Turks, 65.

  CAICVS, a river of _Mysia Major_, described, 52, 57.

  CAIMEKAM, a Turkish officer, who acts as deputy to the prime _vizír_
      in his absence, 66, 69.

  CALLIPOLIS, see GALLIPOLI.

  CALVINISTS, their worship in _Transylvania_, 102.

  CAMELOSTRVTHI, see OSTRICHES.

  CANA, a promontory of the _Adramyttian_ gulph, 33.

  CANON, see ESKI NATOLIA HISAR.

  CANTACUZENO _Thomaso_, his reception of L. Paget, 77.

  CANTACUZENVS _Constantinus Stolnichus_, uncle to the Prince of
      _Valachia_, his character, 79.

  CAPIGEES, messengers extraordinary from the _Grand Signior_, into
      whose presence they conduct ambassadors, 67.

  CAPUCHINS, their convent at _Vienna_, in which are buried the imperial
      family, 117.
    Their cloister at _Prague_ described, 135.
    Their convent at Cadiz, 172.

  CARAVAN, a company of pilgrims, or other persons, who travel together
      in Turkey, with a guard for their security, 51.
    See Dr. _Pococke_, V. ii. par. i. p. 30.

  CARDIA, or _Sinus Melas_, a gulph on the west side the _isthmus_ of the
      _Chersonésus_, 62.

  CARNVNTVM, see PETRONEL.

  CASSAWARE, a sort of bird without wings, 118.

  CATERGEE, a Turkish word signifying a _mule driver_, 62.

  CATHARINE _Saint_, her church at _Hamburg_ described, 153.

  CATROCHAN, a convent near _Bucurest_ in _Valachia_ described, 81.

  CATTLE of _Hungary_, fair, white, and large, 107.

  CAYSTER, a river in _Ionia_, 19, 21.

  CAYSTRIAN, plain in _Ionia_ described, 19.

  CETIVS, a mountain in _Austria_, 131.

  CHALCEDON, a town in _Bithynia_ opposite to _Constantinople_, some
      account of it, 43.

  CHALLIKCAVAK, a town on the borders of _Bulgaria_; the ornaments of the
      women, and their manner of dismissing strangers, 74.

  CHARYBDIS, see SCYLLA.

  CHATEAURENAULT, the _French_ admiral, his whole squadron sunk or taken
      at _Vigo_ by the _English_, 138.

  CHERSONESVS, the _peninsula_ of _Thrace_, 61.

  CHIAUSH, a pursevant or messenger of the Turkish court, 69.

  CHIAUSH BASHA, the chief officer of the Turkish _chiaushes_, or
      messengers, who carries a silver staff, 65.

  CHRISTIANVS AVGVSTVS Duke of _Brunswick_, founded the library at
      _Wolfembutel_, and wrote the catalogues himself, 147.

  CHRONIQUES D’ANGLETERRE, XIII volumes ms. in the Duke’s library at
      _Wolfembutel_, 148.

  CHRYSOLAS, see ARANYAS.

  CHRYSOPOLIS, see SCUTARI.

  CHRYTSHULEST, a village in _Valachia_, 82.

  CHURBEGEE, a captain of the _janisaries_, 66.

  CIANVS _sinus_, a bay in _Bithynia_, in which was the famous fountain,
      where _Hylas_ was drowned, 49.

  CIBIN, a river of Transylvania, from which the city _Cibinium_ (or
      _Hermanstadt_) receives its name, 92.

  CIBINIVM, see HERMANSTADT.

  CICERO’S _Orations_ ms. in the Imperial library at _Vienna_, 120.

  CIVS, or _Prusa ad Arganthonium_, now a small village of _Bithynia_, 50.

  CLAMSTON, a town in _Bohemia_, 138.

  CLAVDIOPOLIS, see CLAUSENBURG.

  CLAUSENBVRG, a city in _Transylvania_ described, 96.
    Inscriptions there, 97.

  CLOYSTER NEWBURG, a town in _Austria_, 131.

  COKUCK DEROCUT, a town in _Upper Saxony_, 138.

  COLONICZA _Cardinal_, archbishop of _Strigonium_, 107.

  COLVMELLA, a curious manuscript of him in the possession of Dr. GOETZE
      at _Leipsick_, 143.

  COMNENVS _Theodorus_, built a castle at _Prusia_, 51.

  COMORWA, a village in _Thrace_, between which and _Adrianople_ drummers
      are placed in the road, like watchmen, for security, 74.

  CONACK, a resting place or lodging, 2.

  CONFRATERNITY _of the dead_, persons who attend the public executions
      at _Vienna_, 123.

  CONFUCIAN _philosophy_, published in the _Sinese_ language by the
      Jesuits at _Vienna_, 120.

  CONSTANTINE _the Great_, defeated _Licinnius_ near _Hadrianople_, 63.

  CONSTANTINOPLE, by the Turks called _Istambol_, from a corruption of
      the Greek εἰς τὴν πόλιν, as some have conjectured. See _Cantem._
      p. 51.
    The mosques there described, 40.
    The antient cirque, _ib._
    Inscriptions there, 41, 46, 48, 49.
    The aqueducts, 43.
    The great _seraglio_, 45.
    Its figure towards the sea, 48.

  CORDAG, see IDA.

  CORDILIEU, a hill near _Smyrna_, 2.

  CORN, in _Hungary_ buried under ground, 109.

  CORNIBAT, a Turkish town in _Thrace_, famous for dying purple and
      yellow leather, 74.

  COSSON _Daniel_, his inscriptions, 163.

  COTONEST, a village _Valachia_, 84.

  COTTON WOOL, how managed in Turkey, 13.

  CRESSET _Mr._ envoy to the court of _Hanover_, his character, 151.

  CRONSTAD, a city in _Transylvania_, described, 87.
    The religion, civil government, and language there used, 88.

  CROSS _Saint_, a rich convent of Cistercian monks near _Baden_, 127.
    A church so called at _Dresden_, 139.

  CRUCIFIX, in a chapel of the Premonstratensians at _Prague_, said to
      have been illuminated in the night, 136.
    Another on the bridge at _Dresden_, bearing an inscription, that
      disavows all superstitious worship, 140.
    One laid under foot at _Cadiz_, by the stratagem of a Jew shoemaker,
      172.

  CRYPTOGRAPHIA, a book written by _Christianus Augustus_ Duke of
      _Brunswick_, 148.

  CSAT, a village in _Hungary_, 107.

  CSEGE, a town in _Hungary_, having a pass over the TIBISCUS, 107.

  CVMA, see SOTALEA.

  CVPERVS _Gisbertus_, his library and _museum_, 162.

  CURIOSITIES, at _Vienna_, 129.
    At _Leipsick_, 144.

  CURUCHESMEE, a village on the Thracian _Bosphorus_, which signifies _a
      dry fountain_, 39.

  CUSHCUI, a palace of the _Grand Signior_, very near _Constantinople_.
      The word signifies the _Bird village_, 49.

  CYPRIANUS _Dr._ rector of the university at _Leipsick_, 144.

  CYRILLIAN _Sclavonic character_ described, 85.

  CYZICVS, a city of _Mysia minor_, 59.

  CZASLAW, a town in _Bohemia_, where general _Zeiska_ lies buried, 133.


  D.

  DACIA MEDITERRANEA, now _Transylvania_, 85.

  DACIA RIPENSIS, now _Moldavia_ and _Valachia_, _ib._

  DE BARIAS _Didacus_, his house at _Cadiz_ esteemed a sanctuary, for
      sheltering the _host_ from a storm of rain, 172.

  DEBRECYN, a free city in _Hungary_, described, 105, 106.

  DELFT, a city in Holland, 162.
    A monument there in memory of _William_ I. Prince of Orange, 163.

  DELMENHORST, a town in _Westphalia_ subject to the King of Denmark, 160.

  DEMBOWITZA, a river in _Valachia_ runing into the _Danube_, 77, 83, 84.

  DEPLITZ, a town in Bohemia, the estate and seat of Count _Clery_, 138.

  DERRICUI, a Christian village in _Thrace_, 62.

  DERVISES, Turkish _monks_ of several orders. Their college at
      _Magnesia_, 7.
    The ceremonies of those called _Meulevi_, 49, 70.

  DESK _for books_, a wheeling one at _Prague_, 136.
    At _Wolfembutel_, 148.

  DEVENTER, the chief town in _Overissel_, 161.

  DE WILD _Mr._, an account of his cabinet, 166.

  DIANA’S _temple_ at _Ephesus_, its remains, 27.

  DIMOTICO, a market town in _Mysia Minor_, corruptly so called from the
      ancient _Didymotichos_, 60.

  DIVAN, the grand council room, or court of justice, among the Turks,
      45, 66.

  DOBOZI _Stephanus_, a learned gentleman of _Debrecyn_ in _Hungary_, who
      is publishing a new version of the _Bible_ in that language, for
      the use of the Reformed churches there, 106.

  DOBRAL, a town in _Thrace_, 74.

  DOMUZDERE, a place near _Constantinople_, signifying _the vale of
      hogs_, 47.

  DON JOHN _of Austria_, his statue at _Messina_ in memory of the victory
      at _Lepanto_, 174.

  DRAGOMAN, a Turkish word signifying _an interpreter_, from the modern
      Greek δραγούμανος, or δραγώμανος, 2.

  DRAGOSLAVE, a village in _Valachia_, 84.

  DRESDEN, a royal city of _Upper Saxony_, described, 139.

  DRUMNA, a town in _Austria_, 132.

  DRUMMERS, placed as watchmen in several parts of _Thrace_, 74.

  DURGUTHLI, a Turkish town in _Ionia_, where cotton wool is manufactured,
      13.
    An Armenian church newly founded there, _ib._
    A Greek inscription there, 14.


  E.

  EARTHQUAKE, a remarkable effect of one at _Messina_, 176.

  EBERSTORFF near _Vienna_, in which there is a palace of the Emperor, 117.

  EFFENDI, from a corruption of the Greek word αὐθέντης, is a title of
      respect given to persons among the Turks; used sometimes by itself,
      and at other times subjoined either to their name, or the office
      which they bear, 6.

  EFFICKE _Dr._ professor of divinity at _Leipsick_, 142.

  EGRA, a river in _Bohemia_, 138.

  EIRONEIA _Gaufridi_, an antient _Satyr_ in ms. on the pope and court
      of _Rome_, in the possession of Dr. _Goëtze_ at _Leipsick_, 143.

  EISLEBEN, a town in _Upper Saxony_, famous for the birth of _Luther_,
      146.

  ELBE, a river in _Bohemia_ described, 133, 152.

  ELCHILEE, a town in _Thrace_, 63.

  ELK, at the Emperor’s palace at _Schonbran_, described, 119.

  EMPEROR _of Germany_, his treasury, 121.
    Present family, _ib._
    Character, 122, 127.
    Manner of hunting, 123.
    Investing the princes of the empire, 124.
    Pictures and rarities, 129, 130.
    Palace at _Prague_, 135.

  EMS, or _Amasia_, a river in _Westphalia_, 161.

  ENGEDI _Stephanus_, professor of divinity at _Enyed_, 95.

  ENTZERSDORFF, a town in _Austria_, 131.

  ENYED, a town in _Transylvania_, where the Calvinists have the most
      flourishing school and college in that country, 95.

  EPHESVS, now called _Aiasaluck_, its situation, 23.
    Its ruins described, _ib._
    The castle, and _St. John’s_ church, 24.
    Remains of the old citadel, and _Diana’s_ temple, with other reliques
      of antiquity, 26, 27, 28.

  ERDICURESTUR, a town in _Transylvania_, 97.

  ERZERUM, a city of _Armenia_, 69.
    So called from _erz_ land, and _Rum_ Roman, _Cantem._ p. 75.

  ESKIJAMI, a mosque at Adrianople, so called from its antiquity; _eskí_
      signifying _old_, and _jamí_ a temple, 64.

  ESKI NATOLIA HISAR, or, the _Old Asian Castle_. It is the antient
      _Abydos_ in _Mysia_, 36.
    Brass guns in the castle with a bore three quarters of a yard
      diameter, _ib._

  ESKI STAMBOL, a city of _Bulgaria_, possibly the _Oescus Triballorum_
      of the antients, 75.

  ESTZERHAZI _Count_, Palatin of _Hungary_, 112.

  EVPHORMIO of _Barclay_, a comment upon it by Mr. _Wagner_ of _Leipsick_,
      141.


  F.

  FABRICIVS _Jo. Albertus_, his character, 157.

  FALLING SICKNESS, the blood of persons executed esteemed a remedy for
      it at _Vienna_, 124.

  FARO of _Messina_ described, 173.

  FAVORITE, a palace of the Emperor at _Vienna_ so called, 117.

  FEKETEHOLM, a town in _Transylvania_, with a church fortified like a
      garrison, 88.

  FERDINAND II _Emperor_, made _Vienna_ the Imperial seat, 117.
    Destroyed the town _Sloney_ in _Bohemia_, 138.

  FLIES or BEES, the emblem of them supposed to be the real arms of
      _France_, 130.

  FOCHIA VECCHIA, antiently _Phocaea_, a harbour near _Smyrna_, 32.

  FOETUS _human_, double in all its parts as far down as the navel, kept
      dry and stuffed, in the _bibliotheca Windhagiana_ at _Vienna_, 119.

  FOGERAS, a town in _Transylvania_, with a castle, which was never
      taken by force, 89.

  FORIS DEBREEZENI _Stephannus_, chief pastor at _Zilak_ a Calvinist
      village in _Transylvania_, 97.

  FORTSHAUSEN, a village in _Gelderland_, 162.

  FOUNTAIN, in the town house at _Prague_, described, 135.
    In the Duke of _Brunswick’s_ palace at _Hesden_, 146.
    At _Messina_, 174.

  FRANCISCANS _Minorite_, their convent at _Vienna_, 117.

  FRANCKIVS, a professor in the university of _Hall_, his scheme for an
      ample charity, 145.

  FRIBURG, a town in _Misnia_, subject to the Elector of _Saxony_, 138.

  FRITSEL _Thomas_, a noted bookseller at _Leipsick_, 143.


  G.

  GALA DAYS, so called at _Vienna_, on which the court appears in its
      greatest splendor, 122.

  GALATA _Greater_ and _Less_, two villages in _Thrace_ near _Callipoli_,
      37.

  GALATA, a town and port near _Constantinople_, 39.

  GALLESIVS MONS, see ALYMAN.

  GALLIPOLI, antiently called _Callipolis_, a city in _Thrace_ near the
      _Hellespont_, 37.

  GELEMBA, a town of _Mysia Major_, upon the river _Caicus_, 52, 57.

  GEMMAE SALIS, pellucid like crystal, 93.

  GEORGE _Saint_, an island near _Smyrna_, 32.

  GEORGE _Saint_, a village near _Smyrna_, with an antient Greek church, 3.

  GERHARDVS _Abbot_, otherwise _Molanus_, his coins and medals, 150.
    Income and authority, 151.

  GEYSA, see SAXONS.

  GHIKA, a prince of _Valachia_, who formed an insurrection against the
      Turks, 83.

  GIAMOBASY, a village in _Ionia_ near mount _Alymán_, 21, 31.

  GLYCHENSBERG _General_, governor of the forces at _Cronstadt_, 87.

  GOETZE _Dr._ his manuscripts, _etc._, 143.

  GOLD, remarkable accounts of its lodging in vines and grapes in some
      parts of _Transylvania_, and upon mount _Tokaí_ in _Hungary_, 103.

  GOLDEN BULL, containing the constitutions of the empire by _Charles_
      the fourth, 119.

  GOTHIC _character_, an account of it, 143.

  GOUDA, a town in _Holland_, 166.

  GRABE _Ern._ Mr. _Le Clerc’s_ complaint of him, 167.

  GRAEVIVS _Mr._ keeper of the public library at _Leipsick_, 141.

  GRAND SIGNIOR, his manner of receiving ambassadors, 66.
    His person described, and manner of riding to a mosque, 69.
    His titles, 70.

  GRAND VIZÍR, chief counsellor or representative of the _Grand Signior_,
      his manner of giving audience to ambassadors, 65.
    His person described, _ib._
    Entertains the L. Paget, 70.
    As to the inferior _visírs_, his assistants, see _Wilson’s Seraglio_,
      p. 610, 611.

  GRANICVS, see BOCLEW.

  GRAVEN _Lieut. Col._, 87.
    Receives a present of a diamond ring from L. Paget, 91.

  GREEKS, their church at _St. George’s_, 3.
    Their devotion, 4.
    Manner of celebrating the Eucharist, _ib._
    Churches at _Tyria_, 20.
    They abhor all imagery in _releivo_, 20, 61.
    Their funerals, 39.
    Famous convent called _Maurómolos_, 42.
    Numerous chapels about the town _Milo_, 176.

  GUNS, see ESKI NATOLIA HISAR.

  GYGAEAN LAKE, near _Sardis_, 17.

  GYONGYOSSI, a city in _Hungary_ taken from the Protestants by the
      Jesuits, 108.

  GYONGYOSSI _Paul_, a Hungarian divine, who formerly resided at
      _Oxford_, 106.


  H.

  HABERN, a wood in _Bohemia_, 133.

  HADGELAR, a village near _Smyrna_, so called from its being the first
      rendevous of the _hadjées_ or _pilgrims_ in their annual journey
      from _Smyrna_ to _Mecca_, 55.
    Inscriptions there, _ib._

  HAEMVS, a mountain in _Thrace_, 74.

  HAGUE, a town in _Holland_, 162.
    Prince of _Orange’s_ house in the adjacent wood, 164.

  HALBERSTADT, a town in _Saxony_, 146.

  HALESVS, a river in _Ionia_, discharging itself into the sea at
      _Colophon_, 31.

  HALL, a city of _Suabia_ described, with the university, 145.

  HAMAL, a Turkish name for a _boatman_ or _porter_. In the modern Greek
      χαμάλ, 39.

  HAMBURG, a free Imperial city, and chief of the _Hanse_ towns, seated
      on the north side of the _Elbe_, 152.
    Besieged in 1686 by the king of _Denmark_, 153.
    The religion, government, dress, funerals, and trade of the
      inhabitants, with the English company of merchants there, _ibid._
    Famous for Rhenish wine and fine loaf sugar, 156.
    An account of the opera house, and a model of Solomon’s temple, 157.
    The language and manners of the inhabitants, 158.
    The detestable practice of melancholy persons, and infamous character
      of a monstrous virago there, _ib._

  HANOVER, the chief city of that electorate, described, 151.
    An account of the Electoral family, _ib._

  HARACH, a _pole tax_ laid upon Christians by the Turks, 42.

  HARBURG, a town in _Lunenburg_, 152.

  HARDA, a river running into the _Hebrus_ at _Adrianople_, 63.

  HAREM, a Turkish word for _women_, or the _womens apartment_, 32, 38.
    In the Arabic language it signifies _things forbidden_.

  HARLEM, a town in _Holland_, which claims the invention of printing, 167.

  HASANOGLI, the _mosque_ at _Magnesia_, where he was buried, held in
      great veneration by the Turks, 11.

  HASE, a river in _Westphalia_. 161.

  HASELUN, a town in _Westphalia_, _ib._

  HATWAN, a town in _Hungary_, 109.

  HEBRVS, a famous river of _Thrace_, 62.

  HELLESPONT, now called the _Dardanells_, flows perpetually into the
      _Aegean_ sea, 35.
    Its breadth, 61.

  HENS of _Grand Cairo_ described, 46.

  HERACLEA, a city of _Thrace_, 38.

  HERMANNVS, founder of _Hermanstadt_, his statue there, 92.

  HERMANSTADT, a city in _Transylvania_, L. Paget’s entertainment there,
      90.
    Inscriptions there, 91.
    Its government, 92.

  HERMVS, a famous river in _Ionia_ described, 5, 56.

  HESSEN, a small village in _Saxony_, the Duke of _Brunswick’s_ house
      there, 146.

  HEUSLER, _General_, defeated and taken by Count _Tekely_ near _Rosnaw_
      in _Transylvania_, 87.

  HILDESHEIM, a city of _Lower Saxony_, 146.

  HIPPIVS, a river near the city _Prusia_, 51.

  HOGIA, a Turkish word signifying a _learned man_, an _instructor_, or
      _teacher_, 69.

  HOLIBRUN, a town in _Austria_, 131.

  HOLTHENVS _Edvardus_, a learned divine of _Utrecht_, who was then
      publishing the new edition of _Gruter_, 169.

  HOLY SEPULCHER, certain rents at _Bucurest_ in _Valachia_ consigned for
      the use of it, 80.

  HOMER, an old manuscript of him in the university library at _Leipsick_,
      143.

  HONSLARDYKE, a palace of K. _William_ near the _Hague_, 166.

  HORSE TAILS, two allowed by the Turks to be carried before the prince of
      _Valachia_, 81.

  HOST, see DE BARIAS _Didacus_.

  HOUND SLAYER, his office at _Baden_, 128.

  HOUR in _traveling_, about three English miles, 5.
    See Dr. _Shaw’s_ _Preface_ to his _Travels_, p. ix.

  HOUSES in _Hungary_ made under ground, 108.

  HU, HU, that is, _he be_, or _he who is_; with the Turks meaning _God_,
      71.
    See _D’Herbelot_, and _Wilson’s Seraglio_, p. 764, 786.

  HUMUMLEE, a village in _Mysia Minor_ near the lake _Minyás_, 59.

  HUNGARI, a people of _Transylvania_, 99.
    Their government, 100.
    Religion, 101.
    Customs, 104.

  HUNGARS, a gold coin in Turkey, worth about ten shillings sterling, 39.

  HUNGARY, divided from _Transylvania_ near the village _Zilak_, 98.
    Its soil rich and abounding with lakes, 111.
    Divided from _Austria_ by the river _Leyta_, 114.

  HUNGRISCH ALTENBURG, a town in _Hungary_, situated on the river _Leyta_,
      114.

  HVNNI, a colony of _Scythians_, now settled in _Transylvania_, 99, 100.

  HYAENA, one at _Neugebac_ in _Austria_ described, 118.

  HYLLVS, a river near _Thyatira_, 52.


  I.

  JACACUI, a village near _Smyrna_, 2.

  JALOMITZA, a river in _Valachia_, 83.

  JANIKAW, a town in _Bohemia_, memorable for the battle in 1645 between
      the Swedes and Imperialists, 133.

  JANISARIES, a body of the Turkish infantry. The word signifies _new
      soldiers_, as they were the last order introduced. They make the
      _Grand Signior’s_ foot guard, and the _spaheés_ the horse, 2.
    The manner of their dismission from duty, 68.

  ICHOGLANS, youth born of Christian parents, and educated by the Turks
      in the _seraglio_ for public offices of the state, 46.

  IDA, now _Cordág_, a mountain near _Troy_, 33, 58, 59, 60.

  JENICUI, a town in _Thrace_, 73.

  JERDACK, a village in _Mysia Minor_ near _Lampsacus_, 60.
    Two inscriptions there, _ib._

  JESUITS, their convents at _Vienna_, 117.
    And colleges at _Prague_, 135.
    Where they have the direction of the university and public schools,
      137.
    Pictures in St. _Nicholas’s_ college at _Messina_ in honour of those
      five, who were executed in _England_ for the popish plot, 174.

  JEWS at _Pernitz_, their mark of distinction, 132.
    and at _Prague_, 137.

  IGLAW, a city in _Moravia_, 132.
    Houses there with false fronts, _ib._

  IGLAW, a river in _Moravia_, 132.

  IGMAND, a town in _Hungary_, 112.

  IIRID, a Turkish _javelin_. The modern Greeks write it τζιρήδ. 46.

  ILFOF, a small river in _Valachia_, 82.

  ILIVM, see TROY.

  IMAGES, see STATUES.

  IMAM, a Turkish priest, who daily says public prayers. From the Greek
      word ἐφημέριος, by the modern Greeks corrupted into ἡμάμ, 60.

  IMBROS, an island in the _Aegean_ sea, near the _Chersonésos_, 33.

  INN, see ARNSWOLDT.

  INSCRIPTIONS _Greek_, one at _Magnesia_, 11.
    At _Durguthli_, 14.
    At _Tyria_, 20.
    Three at _Ephesus_, 28, 29.
    One at _Constantinople_, 41.
    At the convent _Maurómolos_, 42.
    Upon _Aurátbasar’s_ pillar at _Constantinople_, 44.
    On a tower near _Porto Janicula_, 48.
    Others near the _seraglio_, 49.
    One at _Prusia_, 51.
    Others at _Thyatira_, 53, 56, 57.
    At _Hadgelar_, 55.
    And at _Jerdáck_, 60.
    One at _Komora_, 112.
    Another belonging to Mr. _Neufville_ at _Leyden_, 165.
    And another to Mr. _Uilenbroek_ at _Amsterdam_, 168.

  INSCRIPTIONS _Latin_, one at _Ephesus_, 25.
    At _Constantinople_, 41.
    Upon one of the _Symplegades_, 42.
    Two in the great _seraglio_ at _Constantinople_, 46.
    Others at _Hadgelar_, 55.
    And at _Thyatira_, 57.
    Three at _Hermanstadt_, 91.
    And at _Wissenburg_, 95.
    One at _Therda_, 96.
    Two at _Clausenburg_, 97.
    And at _Komora_, 112.
    One at _Petronel_, 125.
    Another belonging to Mr. _Cuper_ at _Deventer_, 162.
    Others to Mr. _Neufville_ at _Leyden_, 164.
    And one to Mr. _Uilenbroek_ at _Amsterdam_, 168.

  JOHN _Saint_, his church at _Ephesus_, 24.
    And hospital at _Cadiz_, 171.

  IRONGATE, a place so called in _Mysia Minor_, 52.

  ISHMAELJA, a village in _Ionia_ near _Durguthli_, 14.

  ISVORA, a pleasant place incompassed with woods in _Valachia_, near
      the river _Dembowitza_, 83.

  JVSTVS _Sanctus_, his bones carried in procession at _Vienna_, 124.


  K.

  KANES, public places in Turkey, both on the road and in towns, with
      a mosque usually in the middle, enclosed for the lodging of
      travellers, 8, 13, 80.
    See _Maundrell_, pag. 1.
    These buildings seem to have been very antient in the East, and
      alluded to _Jerem._ ix. 2. where by the Septuagint they are called
      σταθμοί.

  KAPOSI _Samuel_, professor of the _Schola Albensis_ at _Wissenburg_,
      teaches the English language to the students, 94.

  ΚΑΣΤΡΙΩΤΗΣ Κῦρ Γεώργιος, a Grecian at _Bucurest_ in _Valachia_, 80.

  KAYA, a deputy of the _grand vizír_, 65.

  KEREPES, a town in _Hungary_, 109.

  KIBLE, or KIBLAH, that part in a Turkish _mosque_, whose prospect is
      towards _Mecca_, to which they always turn, when they pray, 8.
    See Dr. _Shaw’s Travels_, p. 284.

  KIEF, a Turkish word, signifying _delight_ or _pleasure_, 10.

  KING of _France_, an epigram upon him by the _Emperor_, 120.

  KING of _Poland_, his dexterity in shooting, 125.

  KIOSK, a Turkish pleasure house, 6.

  KIRKINGECUI, a Christian village near _Ephesus_, 21, 22.

  KLOPPERBURG, a town in the bishopric of _Munster_, 161.

  KOENDERN, a town in _Upper Saxony_, 146.

  KOES _Johannes_, professor of divinity at _Debrecyn_ in _Hungary_, 106.

  KOES, a town in _Hungary_ remarkable for the many curious trees, herbs,
      and flowers, which grow near it, 111.

  KOLOSERI _Samuel_, inspector general of the emperor’s mines in
      _Transylvania_, 93.

  KOLOSVARI _Stephanus_, professor of philosophy at _Enyed_, 95.

  KOMORA, a city in _Hungary_, 112.
    Inscriptions in the castle, _ib._

  KONINGSMARK _Count_, brass statues of the twelve Apostles at _Prague_
      converted by him into canon, 136.

  KOOLAERT _Mr._ merchant of _Harlem_ an account of his daughter, who was
      born deaf, being taught to speak, 167.

  KOTTIN, a town in _Bohemia_, 133.

  KRASNA, a river in _Hungary_, 98.

  KREMNYTZ, a town in _Hungary_, famous for mines of gold and other
      metals, 109.

  KUNSTCAMMER, or _arts chamber_, the Elector of Saxony’s repository of
      rarities at _Dresden_ so called, 140.

  ΚΥΡΙΑΚΟΔΡΟΜΙΟΝ, see MAXIMUS _Hieromonac_.

  KURUGELCHICK, or the _dried lake_ a village on mount _Temnus_ in _Mysia
      Major_, 57.

  KUTALI, a small island in the _Propontis_ near _Marmora_, 37.

  KUTTENBERG, a city in _Bohemia_, 133.

  KYSLER AGA, the _chief eunuch_ so called by the Turks, 69.


  L.

  LAMBECIVS, keeper of the Imperial library at _Vienna_, turned Papist in
      order to qualify himself for that imployment, 121.

  LAMPSACVS, a town in _Mysia Minor_, 37, 60.

  LANDAW, a city of _Alsace_, 122.

  LANGERMAN Mr. a druggist at _Hamburg_, his curiosities, 157.

  LAPIS LYDIVS, so called from _Lydia_, a country in _Asia Minor_, 10.

  LATIN _Letters_ in ms. writen by the present emperor to _Lambecius_,
      in the Imperial library at _Vienna_, 120.

  LAUNA, a town in _Bohemia_, 138.

  LECTIONARIVM of the four Evangelists at _Kirkingécui_ near _Ephesus_, 22.

  LECTON, see BABA.

  LEEWENHOEK Mr. his curious discoveries upon insects, _etc._, 165.

  LEIBNITZ Mr. librarian to the Duke of _Brunswick_ at _Wolfembutel_, 147.

  LEICHTENSTEIN _Prince_, purchased the bones of three Hungarian Saints
      in Italy, and conveyed them to _Vienna_, 124.

  LEINE, a river in the Electorate of _Hanover_, 151.

  LEIPSICK, a city in _Upper Saxony_ described, 140.
    Its government, 141.
    Commodities, university, _etc._, 142, 144.
    The habit of the ecclesiastics, 145.

  LEMNOS, an island in the _Aegean_ sea, 33.

  LEO the _Emperor_, his superstition, 45.

  LEOPARDS at the palace of _Neugebac_, near _Vienna_, described, 118.

  LEOPOLD _Saint_, a castle on the _Danube_, near _Cloyster Newburg_ in
      _Austria_, 131.

  LEPELAR, a sort of stork, 166.

  LESBOS, see MITYLENE.

  LEYDEN, a city in _Holland_, 162.

  LEYTA, a river in _Hungary_, 114.

  LIBRARIES.
    _Windhagiana_ and _Imperial_ at _Vienna_, 119.
    Premonstratensian at _Prague_, 136.
    The Duke of _Brunswick’s_ at _Wolfembutel_, 147.
    Those at _Leipsick_, 143.
    And _Hamburg_, 157.

  LICINNIVS, see CONSTANTINE.

  ΛΙΜΝΗ ΔΑΣΚΥΛΙΤΙΣ, a lake in _Mysia Minor_, now called _Minyás_, 58.

  LINGEN, a town in _Westphalia_, described, 161.

  LION DOLLARS, coins current in _Valachia_, 85.

  LIVY, an account of an antient manuscript, which seems to have contained
      more books of that author, than the present copies, 119.

  LOAF SUGAR, see HAMBURG.

  LOO in _Gelderland_, K. _William’s_ house and gardens there, 162, 169.

  LUBECK, an _Hanse_ town in _Lower Saxony_, 157.

  LUTHER, a picture of him at _Leipsick_ taken after his death, 143.
    Reliques of his in the Duke’s library at _Wolfembutel_, 148.

  LUTHERANS, their churches and manner of worship in _Transylvania_
      described, 101, 102.
    Their manner of communicating, 144, 147.

  LUXEMBURG near _Vienna_, an Imperial palace there, 117.
    The castle described, with a remarkable instance of thunder, which
      happened in it, 126.

  LYNCES, at the palace of _Neugebac_ near _Vienna_ described, 118.


  M.

  MACKSHUSEN, a town in _Overissel_, 162.

  MADONNA, see MARY.

  MAGNESIA _ad Sipylum_, city of _Lydia_, 5, 56.
    Its manufacture, 6.
    A seraglio, madhouse, college of _dervíses_, and royal _mosques_
      there described, 7, 8.
    Gave name to the _magnet_, 9.
    Inscriptions there, 11.

  MAGNET, see MAGNESIA.

  MAHOMET _effendi_, his courtesy to the travelers at _Magnesia_, 6.

  MAHOMET IV. _Sultan_, a stone bridge built by him near _Dimotico_ in
      _Mysia Minor_, 60.

  MAITOS, antiently _Madytos_, a town in the _Chersonésus_, described, 37.

  MAKREN, see MORAVIA.

  MALGARA, a town in _Thrace_, described, 62.

  MAMOT, an East Indian animal, like a stag, with twisted horns, 166.

  MANDAHORA, a village on the river _Aesépus_ in _Mysia Minor_, described,
      52, 58.

  MARCOMANNI, see MORAVIA.

  MARGARET, _Countess_ of _Henneberg_, said to have had 165 children at
      a birth, 165.

  MARGARITA, a town in _Hungary_, 98.

  MARK, see MORAWA.

  MARMORA, an island in the _Propontis_ described, 37.

  MARVS, see MORAWA.

  MARY _Virgin_, her pillar at _Vienna_ described, 115.
    Her picture said to have shed tears, 116.
    A miraculous image of her, _ib._
    A new sort of _Gloria Patri_ inscribed to her, 131.
    Her statue at _Prague_, 134.
    Picture pretended to be done by St. _Luke_, 135.
    Numerous titles, 136, 173.
    A stone sculpture of her and our _Savior_ at _Messina_, beleived to
      have been taken from the life, 174.
    Her letter to the _Messanians_, 175.

  MAUROMOLOS, a Greek convent on the European side of the _Bosphorus_,
      described, 42.

  MAVRVSIVS, a river near _Wissenburg_ in _Transylvania_, 93.

  MAXIMVS _Hieromonachus_, a famous Greek monk, author of a book called
      Κυριακοδρόμιον, 80.

  MEANDER, a river in _Ionia_, 5.

  MEDOSLANIVM, see ZNAIM.

  MELANCHOLY persons, their method to get rid of their lives at _Hamburg_,
      158.

  MELANCTHON, a celebrated picture of him at _Leipsick_, taken after his
      death, 143.

  MELAS, a river in _Thrace_, flowing into the gulph _Cardia_, 62.

  MELOS, see MILO.

  MENCHENIVS _Dr. Otto_, professor of moral philosophy at _Leipsick_,
      and editor of the _Acta Eruditorum_, 142.

  MENCHENIVS _Junior_, doctor of law at _Leipsick_, 143.

  MENOLOGION, a Greek manuscript in the possession of Dr. _Goëtze_ at
      _Leipsick_, 143.

  MEPOMIENVS, or NEPOMENENVS _Sanctus Joannes_, a new saint at
      _Vienna_, 117.
    A brazen statue and inscription erected there to his memory, 137.

  MERCY, a convent at _Cadiz_, founded for the redemption of Christian
      slaves, 171.

  ΜΕΣΟΓΕΙΟΤΗΣ, or _Midland hills_, in the _Caystrian_ plain, 19.

  MESSINA, a city on the coast of _Sicily_, described, 173.
    The cathedral, monasteries, _etc._, 174, 175, 176.
    _Ceres_ and _Proserpina_ antiently worshiped there, 176.

  METROPOLIS, an antient city of _Lydia_, whose ruins are described, 30.

  MEULEVI, an order of Turkish monks, whose ceremonies are described,
      49, 70.

  MEYER _Dr._, a turbulent divine of _Hamburg_, 155.

  MICHAEL _Saint_, his church at _Vienna_, 117.
    A remarkable picture of him at _Cadiz_, 171.

  MIHALICK, a town in _Mysia Minor_, where the river _Aesépus_ discharges
      itself into the sea, 58.

  MIKES, _Count Michael_, received L. Paget on the borders of
      _Transylvania_, 86.

  MILE _Hungarian_, equal to six _Italian_, 87.

  MILO, antiently _Melos_, one of the _Cyclades_, with a city of the same
      name, described, 176.
    The birth place of _Socrates_ and _Aristophanes_, _ib._
    Hot baths there, 177.

  MINAREE, a steeple, or _tower_, joining to a Turkish _mosque_, from
      which the _muezin_, or _chanter_, calls the people to prayers, 7.

  MINDERA, a Turkish _mattress_, filled with cotton or wool, 67.

  MINISTERS of the _diván_, their habit, 68.

  MINYAS, a village and castle so called in _Mysia Minor_, 58.

  MISSELTOE, its manner of growing about _Thyatira_, 56.

  MISTEN, a town in _Upper Saxony_, 140.

  MITYLENE or _Lesbos_, an island in the _Aegean_ sea, 32, 33.

  MOESIA INFERIOR, see BULGARIA.

  MOLANVS, see GERHARDVS _Abbot_.

  MOLDAVIA, by submitting to the Turks was taxed lower than the
      neighbouring countries, 85.

  MONETA BRACTEATA, lately found in _Saxony_, described, 143.

  MONNIKEDAM, a town in _North Holland_, 168.

  MONTAGNIA, a Turkish town in _Bithynia_, which seems to be the _Apaméa_
      of the antients, 50.

  MONTE ARGENTATO, see BATKAN.

  MORAT I. Emperor of the Turks, converted a Christian church at
      _Adrianople_ into a mosque, now called _Eskijamí_, or the _Old
      mosque_, which yet retains the antient form, 64.

  MORAT _Sultan_, his strength and activity, 46.

  MORAVIA, now called _Makren_, 131.
    Antiently the seat of the _Marcomanni_ and _Quadi_, 123.
    The country fertile, but the people slaves, _ib._
    Speak the _Behemish_ language, _ib._

  MORAWA, antiently the _Marus_, a river in _Austria_, 131.
    Called _Mark_ by the _Germans_, 133.

  MUEZIN, or _chanter_, who calls the Turks to their prayers, 47.

  MOSQUES, buildings for the publick worship of the Turks, in the form
      of our churches, 7.
    See Dr. _Shaw’s Travels_, p. 283.

  MUFTI, the primate, or chief ecclesiastic, and of greatest authority
      among the Turks; whom they are bound to consult in all causes of
      importance, whether ecclesiastical, civil, or military, 69.

  MUGEVEZEE, a sort of _turbant_ worn by the officers of the _diván_, 68.

  MULDAW, a river, which runs thro _Prague_, 134.

  MULVETELEE, a river near the village _Minyás_ in _Mysia Minor_, 58.

  MUM, see BRUNSWICK.

  MUSCONISIA isles, situated between the continent of _Aeolia_ and the
      island of _Mitylene_, 33.

  MUYDEN, a town in _Holland_, 169.


  N.

  NAERDEN, a town in _Holland_, 169.

  NAKEIB _effendi_, the chief of the _sheriffs_ or descendants of
      Mahoment, 70.
   _Sheriff_ in _Cantemir_, p. 216, signifies _an holy person_.

  NAMAZ, the common and daily _prayers_, which the Turks are injoined to
      repeat five times in twenty four hours, 47.

  ΝΑΟΣ, the _body_ of a Greek church, 81.

  ΝΑΡΘΗΞ, the _porch_ of a Greek church, 81.

  NATOLIA, or ANATOLIA, antiently _Asia minor_, 34, 35.

  NEMETHI _M. B._ professor of philosophy at _Clausenburg_, 97.

  NEIMETHI _Sam._ professor of divinity at _Clausenburg_, 97.

  NEPOMENENVS, see MEPOMIENVS.

  NEPTUNE, see STATUES.

  NESSELIVS, keeper of the Imperial library at _Vienna_, turned Papist in
      order to qualify himself for that imployment, 121.

  NESTORIVS, the place where his heresy was condemned, 25.

  NEUFVILLE _Mr._ his character, and curiosities, 164.

  NEUGEBAC, an imperial palace near _Vienna_, 118.

  NICHOLAS _Saint_, his church at _Leipsick_ described, 141.
    And college at _Messina_, 174.

  NIPHTI, or NYMPHE, a river near _Magnesia_, some account of it, 12.

  NISHANGEE BASHA, an officer, who sets the Grand Signior’s _tura_, or
      _name_, to all orders sent from the _Porte_, 66.
    See _Wilson’s Seraglio_, p. 610.

  NOMADES SCYTHAE, see TURCMEN.

  NORBERT _Saint_, patron of _Bohemia_, 134.
    His tomb in the church of the Premonstratensians at _Prague_, 136.

  NORLICUI, a village near _Smyrna_, signifying the _pomegranate village_,
      2.
    The word _gui_, is a dissyllable, and denotes a village. Leunclav.
      _Hist. Turc._ p. 406.

  NORTHERN, a town of the _United Provinces_, at the confines of
      _Westphalia_ and _Overissel_, 161.

  NYMPHE, a plain near _Smyrna_, 3.


  O.

  OCKER, a river in _Lower Saxony_, 147.

  OESCVS TRIBALLORVM, see ESKI STAMBOL.

  OETINGH _Count_, a christian church built at _Challikcavák_ in _Thrace_
      by his interest, 74.

  OFFENSEY, a village in _Lower Saxony_, 159.

  OKE, a Turkish weight of about two pounds three quarters _avoir de
      pois_, 6.
    See _Rycaut_, V. iii. p. 12.

  OLEARIUS _Mr. junior_, professor of humanity at _Leipsick_, 143.

  OLYMPVS MYSENVS, a mountain near the city _Prusia_, described, 50.

  OPERA HOUSE, see HAMBURG.

  OPERAS, an account of those at _Vienna_, 122.

  ORANGERY, see HONSLARDYKE.

  ORGAN, a remarkable one at _Hamburg_ described, 154.

  ORPHANOTROPHIVM at _Hall_, founded by Mr. _Frank_, 145.

  OSMAN, see OTTOMAN.

  OSMANOGLI, that is, _Osman’s son_, or descendant, 9.
    See _Leunclav. Hist. Turc._ _p._ 418.

  OSTRICHES, at _Schonbran_ described, 118.

  OTMARSH, a town in _Overissel_, 161.

  OTTOMAN, made _Prusia_ the first capital of the Turkish empire, 51.

  OVAL, a town in _Bohemia_, 134.

  OVID’S _Metamorphoses_, ms. 120.

  OVID’S TOWER, a ruinous stone building not far from the _Bosphorus_,
      on the European side, 47.


  P.

  PACTOLVS, a river near _Sart_ or _Sardis_, described, 15.

  PAGET _Lord_, ambassador from K. _William_ to the Porte, the manner of
      his audience of leave at _Adrianople_, 69, 70.
    Entertained by the _grand vizír_, 70.
    Presents given and received by him, 70, 71, 72, 80, 92, 96, 107,131.
    His equipage and retinue, 72, 77, 78, 90, 106.
    Entertained by the Prince of _Valachia_, 79.
    His reception upon entering _Transylvania_, 86, 87.
    At _Rab_, 113.
    At _Vienna_, 115.
    Audience of the King and Queen of the _Romans_, 131.

  PAIDLEBURG, a town in _Saxony_, 146.

  PALACES, those of the Prince of _Valachia_ at _Bucurest_ and _Tergovist_
      described, 79, 82.
    Of the Emperor at or near _Vienna_ and _Prague_, 117, 118, 126, 135.
    Count Traun’s at _Petronel_, 125.
    King of _Poland’s_ at _Dresden_, 140.
    Duke of _Brunswick’s_ at _Hessen_ and _Wolfembutel_, 146, 147.
    That of the Elector of _Hanover_, 151.
    Of the Prince of _Orange_ in the wood near the _Hague_, 164.
    And at _Honslardyke_, 166.

  PALAMUTCUI, a village near _Smyrna_ described, 2.

  PALVS ARTYNIA, a lake fed from mount _Olympus_, described, 51.

  ΠΑΝΑΓΙΑ, or _Virgin Mother_, her image described, 75.

  PANNONIAN ALPS, near _Baden_, in _Austria_, 126.

  PAPER, a fine sort made of silk, 69.
    Curious work cut in it by a woman at _Rotterdam_, 165.

  PARIZ PAPA _Fr._ professor of Greek at _Enyed_ in _Transylvania_, 95.

  PASCHAL COLOURS, described, 81.

  PASHA, the governor of a Turkish province, 76.

  PASHACUI, a village in _Thrace_, 73, 74.

  PATRIARCH of _Jerusalem_, his residence at _Bucurest_ in _Valachia_, 80.

  PAUL _Saint_, his prison, a tower at _Ephesus_ so called, 25.

  PAULINS, an order of monks, who never eat flesh nor fish, 132.

  PEINE, a town in the dutchy of _Brunswick_, 149.

  PELORVS, a promontory of _Sicily_, 175.

  PENTATEUCH, see BIBLE.

  PERA, a town near _Constantinople_, 47.

  PERGAMVS, a city in _Mysia Major_, 52.

  PERNITZ, a town in _Moravia_, 132.

  PEST, a city in _Hungary_, described, 109.

  PETERSWALDT, a town in _Bohemia_, 138.

  PETRONEL, a village on the _Danube_, 125.
    Remains of antiquity, and Count _Traun’s_ palace there described,
      125, 126.

  PHOCAEA, see FOCHIA VECCHIA.

  PHRYGIVS, or HYLLVS, a river near _Thyatira_, 56.

  PHYRITES, a river between _Ephesus_ and _Smyrna_, 30.

  PICTURES, fine ones in _Luxemburg_ castle, 126.
    At _Vienna_, 129, 130.

  PIEDRA DE PUERCO, an account of it, 157.

  PIETISTS in _Germany_, 146.

  PIRN, a town in _Upper Saxony_, 139.

  PISMETLEE, a town in _Mysia Minor_, 60.

  PLAT DUTCH, the language of _Hamburg_, a _medium_ betwixt that of
      _Germany_ and _Holland_, 158.

  PLEBANVS, the title of the chief pastor of the Unitarians at
      _Clausenburg_ in _Transylvania_, 97.

  PLEISS, a river in _Misnia_, 141.

  PLICA POLONICA, on the head of a man at _Alány_ in _Hungary_; the
      effects of cutting it off, 108.

  PO _George_, born at _Prague_, his strange voracity, 157.

  ΠΟΔΑ νείατον Ἴδης, a tract of mountains near _Susegierlíck_, described,
      58.

  POMPEY’S column, see SYMPLEGADES.

  PONTE D’ERCHIENE, see UZUNKUPREE.

  PONTE _Grande_ and _Piccolo_, two bridges near _Constantinople_, 38.

  POPEST, or PRIEST TOWN, a town in _Valachia_, 77.

  PORPHYRY _pillars_, at _Mandahóra_, 58.

  PORTA JANICVLA, see SEVEN TOWERS.

  PORUMBACK, a village in _Transylvania_, described, 89.

  POZZO _P._ a Jesuit at _Vienna_, famous for painting, 117.

  PRAGUE, the metropolis of _Bohemia_, described, 134.
    The town house, a church and college of Jesuits, Emperor’s palace,
      Capuchin cloister, cloister of Premonstratensians (called the
      _Shawhoff_) and university, described, 134, 135, 136, 137.

  PREMONSTRATENSIANS, see PRAGUE.

  PRIEST TOWN, see POPEST.

  PROCESSION at _Vienna_ described, 124.

  PROCHORVS, a manuscript of the _Evangelists_ said to be written by
      him, 22.

  PROCONESVS, see MARMORA.

  ΠΡΟΝΑΟΣ, the _outward chapel_ of a Greek church, 81.

  PROSERPINA, see MESSINA.

  PROSZLO, a village in _Hungary_, 107.

  PRUCK, a town in _Austria_, described, 114.

  PRVSA _ad Arganthonium_, see CIVS.

  PRUSIA, a city at the foot of mount _Olympus_, antiently called _Prusa
      ad Olympum_, to distinguish it from _Prusa ad Arganthonium_, 50.
    The manner of spinning silk there, _ib._
    Its baths, _ib._
    A Greek inscription there, 51.

  PSALMS, a copy of them in the characters called _Ciceroniani_ and
      _Cyprianici_, 148.

  PURSE, a summ of money in Turkey equal to an hundred pounds sterling, 82.


  Q.

  QVADI, see MORAVIA.

  QUARTS, coins current in _Valachia_, 85, 103.


  R.

  RAB, a town and river in _Hungary_, 113.

  RABNITZ, a river in _Hungary_, _ib._

  RABUTIN _General_, his character, 92.

  RASGRAD, a palace belonging to the _pashá_ of _Nicopoli_, 76.

  REIS EFFENDI, the _high chancellor_ in Turkey, 65.

  REISNER _George_, senator of _Helmanstadt_, 90, 91.

  RHEGIVM, a town on the coast of _Naples_, 175.

  RHENISH WINE, see HAMBURG.

  RHOETEVM, near Troy, described, 34.

  RHYNDACVS, a river in _Phrygia_, 51.

  ROBBERS, how treated in _Turkey_, 70.

  RODOLPHVS AVGVSTVS, Duke of _Brunswick_, his house at _Hessen_, 146.
    His government and character, 148, 149.

  RODOPE, a mountain in _Thrace_, 62.

  ROMANVS, consul of _Leipsick_, 141.

  ROSNAW, a town in _Transylvania_, 87.

  ROTTERDAM, a city in _Holland_, 163.

  RUKAR, a village in _Valachia_, described, 84.

  RUMELI HISAR, or the _Roman Castle_, the antient _Sestos_ in _Thrace_,
      36.
    So called from _Rum-yli_, the part of the Romans (the later Greeks
      taking on them the name of Ῥωμαῖοι) and _hisar_ a castle. See
      _Cantem._ p. 75.

  RYSWICK, a village in _Holland_, 162.


  S.

  SACRED CURTAIN, see ΑΓΙΑ ΠΥΛΗ.

  SALA, a river in _Suabia_, 145.

  SALT PITS, at _Saltzburg_, 92.
    _Therda_, 96.
    And _Hall_, 145.

  SALTZBURG, a town in _Transylvania_, so called from the _salt pits_
      there, 92.

  SAMOS, a river in _Transylvania_, 96.

  SAMOTHRACIA, an island opposite to the mouth of the _Hebrus_ in
      _Thrace_, 34.

  SARDAM, a town in _Holland_, some account of it, 166.

  SARDIS, a city in _Lydia_, now called _Sart_, 15.
    Its ruins described, 16.

  SART, see SARDIS.

  SAXONS, settled in _Transylvania_ under _Geysa_ the second king of
      _Hungary_, 99.
    Their government, 100.
    And religion, 101.

  SAXONY, the manner of the Duke’s investiture by the Emperor, 124.

  SAZAWA, a river in _Bohemia_, 133.

  SCACCHIA _ludus_, a book written upon that subject by _Christianus
      Augustus_, Duke of _Brunswick_, 148.

  SCALA SANCTA, twenty eight stairs, up which our _Savior_ was led to
      _Pilate’s_ house, which were sent to _Constantine the Great_ from
      _Jerusalem_ by his mother _Helen_, and are now kept at the church
      of _St. John Lateran_ in _Rome_, 117.
    See _Lassel’s Travels_, _Par._ i. _p._ 113.

  SCALE, or _port_, for passing the _Hellespont_ at _Jerdáck_, 60.

  SCAMANDER, a river near _Troy_, runing into the _Hellespont_, 34.
    Described, 35.

  SCHAURTZENBURG _Count_, his stratagem in taking the town _Rab_, 113.

  SCHONBRAN, near _Vienna_, the Emperor’s palace there, and _menagerie_,
      118.

  SCHUTZ, an island in the _Danube_, 112.

  SCHWEKA, a village and river in _Austria_, 114.

  SCIPIO ASIATICVS, see ANTIOCHVS.

  SCLAVONIC language, 85.

  SCUTARI, antiently _Chrysopolis_, a city in _Bithynia_ opposite to
      _Constantinople_, described, 43.

  SCYLLA and _Charybdis_ described, 173, 174.

  SEA COMPASS, its effects on the castle hill at _Magnesia_, 10.

  SEAU _Count_, 89.
    His castle at _Wissenburg_ described, 94.

  SEDICUI, a village near _Smyrna_, 31.

  SELICKAR AGA, the chief sword bearer to the _Grand Signior_, 69.

  SELIM _Sultan_, his _mosque_ at _Adrianople_ described 64.

  SELIMEE _turbant_ described, 66.

  SELYMBRIA, a city of _Thrace_, not far from _Heracléa_, 38.

  SENIGEE, a village in _Thrace_, 73.

  SERAGLIO, a Turkish palace, an old one of the _Grand Signior_ at
      _Magnesia_, 7.
    That at _Constantinople_ described, 45.
    And at _Adrianople_, 63, 66, 67.

  SESTOS, see RUMELI HISAR.

  SEVEN TOWERS, a castle at _Constantinople_, 38.
    Described, 48.

  SHARKAN, a town in _Transylvania_, described, 88.

  SHARSHEES, porticos at _Adrianople_ for the reception of particular
      trades, 65.

  SHEEP of _Hungary_, their horns long, straight, and twisted; and their
      wool exceeding course, 107.

  SHEPHERD SCYTHIANS, see TURCMEN.

  SHERIFF, see THREE SHERIFFS.

  SHERRADIN _Count_, his dexterity in shooting, 125.

  SICAMBRIA, see BUDA.

  SIGEVM, a promontory near _Troy_, 34.

  SIGRIVM, see SIGURI.

  SIGURI, a cape in the island _Lesbos_, 33.

  SILK, see PRUSIA.

  SIMOW, see AESEPVS.

  SINAN _pashá_, his sepulcher at _Gallipoli_, 61.

  SINVS CIANVS, 49.

  SINVS MELAS, see CARDIA.

  SIPYLVS, a mountain near _Magnesia_, 5.
    Described, 12.

  SLONEY, a town in _Bohemia_, 138.

  SOLACKS, the _Grand Signior’s_ body guard, 69.

  SOLOMON’S _temple_, see HAMBURG.

  SOLYMAN EFFENDI, his account of Roman arms reserved in _Magnesia_
      castle, 9.
    His civility to the travelers, 10.

  SOLYMAN _Sultan_, his _mosque_ at _Constantinople_, called the
      _Solymanjá_, described, 40.

  SOLYMANJÁ, see SOLYMAN _Sultan_.

  SOMLYO, formerly a seat of the kings of _Hungary_, 98.

  SOPHA, a Turkish room, having the floor covered with a carpet, and a
      mattress on both sides, and at the upper end, about a yard broad
      and a foot high, over which cloth is laid, or other rich stuff,
      and cusheons next the wall to lean upon, 3, 39.

  SOPHIA, princess dowager of _Hanover_, 150.
    Her character, 151.

  SOPHIA _Saint_, her church at _Constantinople_, now turned into a
      Turkish _mosque_, described, 47.

  SORNDORF, a village in _Lunenburg_, 152.

  SORRICUI, a village on the river _Bocléw_ in _Mysia Minor_, 59.

  SOTALEA, antiently _Cuma_, a bay in _Aetolia_, 32.

  STAGNVM PEGASEVM communicates with the river _Cayster_, 21.

  STAMBOL, or ISTAMBAL, the Turkish name for _Constantinople_, 47.

  STANIZLO _Stephanus_, professor of philosophy at _Clausenburg_ in
      _Transylvania_, 97.

  STAON, a Bulgarian Christian, aged 120 years, who had three times
      changed his teeth, 73.

  STATUES, one of our _Savior_ in the cloister of the Premonstratensians
      at _Prague_, affirmed to have sweated blood, 136.
    A brass one of an old German idol described, 143.
    One of Neptune at _Messina_ described, 174.
    Another of our _Savior_ and the _Virgin_, believed to have been taken
      from the life, _ib._

  STEKEN, a village in _Bohemia_, 132.

  STEPHEN _Saint_, his church at _Vienna_ described, 116.
    A stone preferred there, as one of those, with which he was martyred,
      117.

  STERNFORT, a small castle near _Hamburg_, 153.

  STIFER ALLAH, in the Turkish language, _God forbid_, 60.

  STOCKERAN, a town in _Austria_, 131.

  STOLNICHO, a Valachian word, signifying a _steward_, 78.

  STRADA _Jacobus_, his manuscript of antient medals in the Imperial
      library at _Vienna_, 120.

  STROMBOLI, a burning island near _Sicily_, an account of it, 173.

  STRYCHIVS, a learned professor at Hall, 145.

  SUSEGIERLICK, a village on the river _Aesépus_ in _Mysia Minor_.
      The word signifies the _Water ox_, or _Buffalo town_, 52, 58.

  SUTTON _Sir Robert_, ambassador to the _Porte_, his manner of audience
      of the _grand vizír_, and _grand signior_, 65, 66.
    His present to the _grand signior_, 68.

  SYLVA HERCYNIA, now called _Behemerwaldt_ in _Bohemia_, 132.

  SYMPLEGADES, islands near the entrance of the Thracian _Bosphorus_, 42.
    A pillar on one of them falsely called _Pompey’s column_, _ib._
    An inscription on the basis of it, _ib._

  SZEKELI, a people of _Transylvania_, 99, 104.
    Their religion, 101.

  SZEKHELYHID, a town in _Hungary_, 105.


  T.

  TAIN, a Valachian word for an allowance, 77.

  TARTALECUI, a village in _Lydia_ between _Magnesia_ and _Thyatira_,
      signifying the _board village_, from the trees, which are there
      sawed into boards, 56.

  TARTALEE, a hill not far from _Smyrna_, 2.

  TARTAR HAN, his letter to the Emperor, 120.

  TARZA, antiently _Tarsius_, a river running thro the plains of _Zelia_,
      in _Mysia Minor_, described, 58, 59.

  TEFTERDAR, or DEFTERDAR, from the Greek διφθέρα, the _skin_ or _vellum_
      on which they write, 66.
    This officer has the whole management of the external revenue among
      the Turks. _Cantem._ p. 146.

  TEKELY _Count_, defeated general _Heusler_, 87,
    but was slain in that defeat, 89.

  TEMNVS, a mountain in _Aeolia_ described, 52, 57.

  TENEDOS, an island, with a town of that name in the _Aegean_ sea,
      opposite to _Mysia_, 33.

  TERGOVIST, a city in _Valachia_, and a convent near it described, 83.

  TESKERGÉE BASHA, secretary to the _Grand Signior_, 67.

  TEYA, a river in _Austria_, 131.

  THEOCRITVS, a manuscript of him in the senators library at _Leipsick_,
      144.

  THERDA, a town in _Transylvania_, remarkable for its salt pits, 96.
    An inscription there, _ib._

  THESAVRVS LINGVAE LATINAE of R. _Stephanus_, with ms. notes of his own
      writing, in the possession of Mr. _le Clerc_, 167.

  THOMASIVS, a professor in the university of _Hall_, 145.

  THRACE, its shore described, 38, 41.

  THRACIAN _Bosphorus_ described, 41, 42.

  THREE SHERIFFS, a _mosque_ at _Adrianople_ so called, 63, 64.
    These _sheriffs_ are galleries, from whence the _ezan_, or _sacred
      hymn_, is sung; and are so called from the word _sheriff_, which
      signifies _holy_. _Cantem._, p. 215, 216.

  ΘΥΣΙΑΣΤΗΡΙΟΝ, the _altar_ of a Greek church, 81.

  THYATIRA, a city of _Lydia_ described, 53.
    Greek inscriptions there, _ib._

  TIBISCVS, a river in _Hungary_, 107.

  TIVAN, a Turkish word for a _ceiling_, 7.

  TMOLVS, a mountain in _Lydia_, 15.
    Described, 17, 18.

  TOKAI, a mountain in _Hungary_, famous for its generous wine, 107.

  TOPHANA, a town near _Constantinople_, opposite to _Scutari_, at the
      entrance of the _Bosphorus_, 41.
    It is so called from _tope_, or the foundery of canon. Dr. _Pococke_,
      vol. ii. par. ii. p. 135.

  TRAGOE, a Christian village in _Bulgaria_, 75.

  TRANSYLVANIA, its former state, 98.
    Taxes exacted by the Emperor, 99.
    Its inhabitants, government, and religion, _ib._
    Soil, minerals, and coin, 103.
    The disposition, habit, and customs of the people described, 104, 105.

  TRAUN _Count_, his descent, and palace at _Petronel_, 125.
    An inscription there, 126.

  TREBISOND, a city of _Capadocia_, 69.

  TRIANTA, a village between _Ephesus_ and _Smyrna_, 31.

  TRINITY, represented in stone at _Pest_ in _Hungary_, 109.
    On a pillar at _Pruck_ in _Austria_, 114.
    In brass at _Vienna_, 115.

  TROAS, a country in _Asia minor_, 33.

  TROGILIVM, a cape near _Ephesus_, 23.

  TROY, its antient situation uncertain, 35.
    The ruins of new _Ilium_ mistaken for it, _ib._

  TSANAD, a town in _Transylvania_, 93.

  TUNSA, a river running into the _Hebrus_ at _Adrianople_, 63.

  TURCMEN, or TURCOMEN, who, and their way of living, 30.

  TURKS, their genius, 6, 13.
    Leave their shoes at the entrance of their _mosques_, 8.
    Permit no new Christian churches to be built, 13.
    Their manner of cuting inscriptions on stones, 24.
    Use no chairs, 31.
    Liquors used by them, 57, 62.
    Their ceremonies at giving audience to an ambassador, 65.
    Their custom of treating robbers, 70.
    Extravagant devotion of one of their sects, _ib._

  TUTRACAN, a town in _Bulgaria_ on the _Danube_, 76.

  TUYTSCHENBRODT, a fortification on the river _Sazawa_ in _Bohemia_,
      where the Emperor _Sigismund_ was defeated by General _Zeiska_, 133.

  TWO BROTHERS, hills near _Smyrna_, 2.

  TYRIA, a city in _Ionia_ described, 19.
    With the Greek churches there, 20.


  V.

  VAARI _Michael_, professor of philosophy at _Debrecyn_ in _Hungary_, 106.

  VALACHI in _Transylvania_, their condition and way of life, 101.

  VALACHIA, the country described, 77, 82.
    Courtesy of the nobility, 79.
    The prince nominated by the Turk, 85.
    Its former state, _ib._
    Taxes imposed by the Turks, _ib._
    The current coin, _ib._
    Administration of justice, _ib._
    The language, religion, churches, and dress of the inhabitants, 86.

  VALIDEE, a _mosque_ at _Constantinople_ so called, 40.

  VANDALE _Antony_, a physician, his character, 167.

  UCHA, a village in _Transylvania_, 89.

  VELEDIN, a village in _Transylvania_, 88.

  VESPRENI _Stephanus_, bishop of the Reformed church in _Transylvania_,
      94.

  VICTORIA _Sancta_, an account of carrying her bones in procession, 124.

  VIENNA, the capital city of _Austria_, described, 115.
    The cathedral church, 116.
    Other churches and convents, 117.
    Palaces and libraries, _ib._
    University and academy, 121.
    A remarkable execution of a woman there, 123.
    The investiture of the Duke of _Saxony_, 124.
    A pompous procession, _ib._

  VIGO, an account of the victory obtained there by the English fleet, 138.
    A Latin poem on the same, 159.

  VINCENT _Mr._ of _Amsterdam_, his cabinet, 166.

  VINEYARDS, how inclosed at _Baden_, 128.

  VIRGIN, see MARY.

  VIRGIN FORT, at _Komora_ in _Hungary_, so called because never taken by
      the enemy, 112.

  VISAKNA, see SALTZBURG.

  VISVRGIS, see WESER.

  UJVAROS, a town in _Hungary_, 107.

  VIZÍR, see GRAND VIZÍR.

  VIZÍR KAYA, see KAYA.

  ULRICVS _Antonius_, Duke of _Brunswick_ and _Lunenburg_, his government
      and character, 148, 149.

  ULUBAT, a village in _Mysia_, formerly _Apollonia ad Rhyndacum_, 52.

  UNITARIANS, their worship in _Transylvania_, 102.

  UPPEER, a town in _Bulgaria_, 76.

  URGANLUI, a village between _Durguthli_ and _Sardis_, 14.

  URI, three at _Schonbran_ in _Austria_ described, 119.

  UTRECHT, the chief city of the province so called, 162.

  UZUNGÉE ALON, a town in _Bulgaria_, 76.

  UZUNKUPREE, a town in _Thrace_, so called from its _long bridge_,
      _cuprée_ signifying a bridge, 62.


  W.

  WALCOWITZ, a town in _Bohemia_, 138.

  WALTHEIM, a town in _Bohemia_, 138.

  WASSER CRATZ, a small hamlet in _Bohemia_, 133.

  WAY, a branch of the _Danube_, 112.

  WENCESLAVS _Emperor_, a remarkable story of him, 119.

  WESER, or VISVRGIS, a river between _Lower Saxony_ and _Westphalia_,
      described, 160.

  WESTPHALIA, a country in _Germany_, some account of it, 161.

  WILDESHUSEN, a town in _Westphalia_, subject to the Elector of
      _Hanover_, 160.

  WILLIAM GEORGE, Duke of _Zell_, his age, 152.

  WINE, an excellent sort about _Adrianople_, 71.
    How made at _Baden_, 128.

  WISSENBURG, a city in _Transylvania_, the Calvinist church there
      described, 94.
    Latin inscriptions there, 95.

  WITCHCRAFT, how tried in _Transylvania_ and _Hungary_, 105.

  WOLFEMBUTEL, a town in _Lower Saxony_, described, 147.
    The cathedral, new church, and castle, _ib._
    Famous for excellent beer, 149.

  WURZEN, a town in _Upper Saxony_, 140.


  Z.

  ZABANIUS _Isaacus_, divine of _Hermanstadt_, who published an answer
      to _Campiani Rationes decem_, 91.

  ZAGYWA, a river in _Hungary_, 109.

  ZECHIN, or CHEQUIN, a gold coin in _Transylvania_, about 9_s._ 6_d._,
      in value, 103.

  ZEISKA _General_, see TUYTSCHENBRODT and CZASLAW.

  ZELIA, plains in _Mysia minor_, now called _Minyás_, 58.

  ZELL, a city of _Lunenburg_, 152.

  ZERICLE, a village in _Lydia_ on the road from _Smyrna_ to _Sardis_, 15.

  ZEVGMA, see CLAUSENBURG.

  ZILAK, a Calvinist village in _Transylvania_, 97.

  ZINGANS, or _gypsies_, 93.
    Find gold dust in the river _Aranyas_, 96.

  ZNAIM, antiently _Medoslanium_, a town in _Moravia_, in which is a
      pillar inscribed with a new kind of _Gloria Patri_, 131.

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