A history of the Brazil

PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR,
AND PUBLISHED BY LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN,
PATERNOSTER-ROW.

Were the writer of the following Work a well-known and admired member of the Literary Community he would still be fortunate in the permission of having it dedicated to your Lordship, as your Lordship’s literary, scientific, and commercial knowledge, correct judgement, and amiable qualities, more than the influence of elevated birth and rank, would confer upon it increased recommendation. But coming forward as I do, an unknown contributor to the stock of general knowledge, I am peculiarly happy in having so high a passport to the notice of the Public, in a Work which professes to communicate new information respecting a portion of South America, now more than ever interesting to the commercial, political, and scientific worlds. Whatever faults it possesses, the pains I have taken to obtain authentic information will, I trust, render it not unworthy of their and your Lordship’s notice. If the style in which I present the new fruit, gathered from the branches of the tree of knowledge that are spread in a far country, is not considered interesting, the fruit itself will be found, I hope, acceptable and useful.

The object of this Work is to describe the state of the Brazil, from its first discovery down to the present time;—to trace distinctly the boundaries of the twenty-two provinces which it comprises, their sub-divisions into comarcas or districts, and their rivers; to enumerate the povoaçoes or establishments in each province, consisting of cities, towns, (and the dates they were so erected by his present Majesty, or previously,) freguezias, (parishes,) arraials, aldeias, (villages,) presidios, (garrisons,) hermitages, &c. with the nature of their agricultural productions, the composition of their inhabitants, whether whites, mulattos, mamalucos, mesticos, Christianized Indians, or Africans.

The numerous tribes of savage Indians, still existing in this region are also described; with the mountains, minerals, and leading objects in the animal and vegetable worlds. The state of the government, revenue, society, and minor subjects are investigated, and more particularly the present commercial relations between Great Britain and the Brazil. The friendly assistance I experienced from many persons in South America, as well as from some governors and ex-governors of provinces, has furnished a portion of the authentic materials of the Work.

My first intention in undertaking it was to have adhered to a geographical and commercial account of the country, but as the recent publication of Padre Manoel Ayres de Cazal, (in producing which he had been many years engaged,) furnishing me, not only with copious information upon the first subject, but also upon its history, civil and natural, I conceived that it would not be unacceptable to the British reader to give an abridged account of each province, from their first colonization, combined with their geography, productions, commerce, &c.

Upon the history of this country, however, the work of Mr. Southey is complete, and does as much honour to the talent of that gentleman as to his unwearied research. The labour, even with all his facilities, which such an undertaking must have required, cannot but have been very considerable.

Padre Cazal, who is a man of some talent, enjoyed decided advantages, it will be allowed, from his ecclesiastical situation, in arriving at full and authentic intelligence, as to the present condition of the towns, productions, &c. derived from Government documents, his own personal research, the diaries of Certanistas, (persons traversing the interior,) and from numerous individuals, who might not have been disposed to grant the same privileges to any one differently circumstanced. In the many instances wherein I have had opportunities of putting the veracity of his statements to the test I have found them correct and impartial. No doubt can fairly exist as to the perfect authenticity of the whole, additionally confirmed as it is, by Mr. Southey’s having had recourse to the same authority in the latter part of his third volume.

The general reader may not be peculiarly interested with that portion of this publication which details the towns and their productions, and in which monotony is unavoidable, although they will be valuable as references for the merchant and many others, as, with the evidently growing commerce of this fine country, already taking off annually three million of British manufactures, each of those places will progressively become more and more important.

The plates, which are amongst the best in their style, are executed, by an able artist, upon stone, from sketches taken on the spot; and the map is formed by myself from the materials of the Work. The Appendix is explanatory of the objects in Zoology and Phytology, which would not have been generally understood by their native designations; and I must here apologize to the reader for not presenting them in scientific nomenclature.

CHAPTER I.
	Page
Voyage from England to Rio de Janeiro	1
CHAP. II.
From the first discovery down to the arrival of the Royal Family there, and its present division into provinces—The general character of the Indians	12
CHAP. III.
PROVINCE OF RIO DE JANEIRO.
Its colonization—contests with, the French and Tamoyo Indians—expulsion of the French—foundation of St. Sebastian—boundaries—division into comarcas—mountains—principal rivers—lakes—bays—capes—islands—mineralogy—zoology—phytology—cities and towns—boundaries, towns, and productions of the comarcas of Ilha Grande and Parahiba Nova—boundaries of the comarca of Rio de Janeiro—the metropolis—situation—English burial-ground—streets—royal mode of riding—compulsory homage upon the occasion—churches—convents—Gloria Hill—female convents—visit to one—fountains—visit to the aqueduct—squares—palace—public buildings—public garden—library—manufactories—theatre—roads leading from the city—palace of St. Christovao—troops of miners and others from the interior—Gaza de Don Pedro—royal mill, shacara, and stables—fire-works—Beija Mao—fidalgos and higher orders of society—splendour of churches—royal chapel—religious festivals and observances—funeral processions—catacombs—the host—state of society—markets	31
CHAP. IV.
PROVINCE OF RIO DE JANEIRO—continued.
Population of the capital—negroes—nocturnal clamour of reptiles—vampire hat—state of literature—jealousy—dead bodies—military—bank—revenue—imposts—diamonds—visit to Campinha—tenure of lands—proof of fertility—Swiss emigrants—visit to the cascades of Tejuca—commerce—judicial procedure—pauta and convention—new exchange—foundation of English church—towns, villages, and productions of the comarca of Rio de Janeiro—boundaries, productions, rivers, lakes, and povoaçoes of the comarca of Cape Frio—boundaries, Indians, rivers, lakes, towns, and sugar-works of the comarca of Goytacazes—boundaries, Coroado Indians, and povoaçoes of the comarca of Canta Gallo	72
CHAP. V.
PROVINCE OF RIO GRANDE DO SUL.
Colonization—boundaries—climate—aspect and productions—contests between Spaniards and Portuguese—divisionary line between these two powers—opposition by the Indians of the seven missions—their defeat—revived contests between Spaniards and Portuguese—mountains—rivers—lakes—capes and ports—islands—mineralogy—phytology—zoology—large fazendas for breeding cattle—mode of management—sheep-flocks—use of the laço and balls—towns, nature of exports, villages, &c. including those of the district of Monte Video	110
CHAP. VI.
PROVINCE OF PARANNA.
Boundaries—climate—productions—Matte the most lucrative—first discoverers—proceedings of the Spanish Jesuits—Guarani Indians formed into reduções, or villages—nature of those missions—expulsion of the Jesuits—delivery of the missions to other ecclesiastics—their decay—mountains—mineralogy—rivers and lakes—phytology—zoology—towns, parishes, &c.—remaining establishments of the Jesuitical missions	134
CHAP. VII.
PROVINCE OF URUGUAY.
Foundation of aldeias, called missions, by the Spanish Jesuits for the Tappe Indians—flourish till the expulsion of that sect—subsequent decay—war between the Spaniards and Portuguese—conquest of the seven missions by the latter power in 1801—governor sent—boundaries—mountains—rivers—phytology—zoology—names and population of the seven missions at their conquest	145
CHAP. VIII.
PROVINCE OF ST. CATHARINA.
Boundaries—colonization—productions—mountains—mineralogy—phytology—zoology—rivers, lakes, and ports—towns, parishes, &c.—agricultural establishments—population—islands—delightful climate	151
CHAP. IX.
PROVINCE OF ST. PAULO.
Boundaries—first settlement—mountains—mineralogy—rivers and ports—islands—phytology—zoology—Bugre Indians, dwellings and customs—character of the Paulistas—division into comarcas—comarca of Curytiba—towns and productions—comarcas of St. Paulo and Hitu—towns and productions	162
CHAP. X.
PROVINCE OF MATTO GROSSO.
First explorers—gold discovered—two brothers appointed for the purpose of exacting the fifths on gold—their atrocious conduct—people attracted here by the fame of gold—destruction of a party by the Indians—Payagoa and Guaycuru Nations discovered—their alliance—their fatal attacks upon the Portuguese—their disunion—continued hostilities of the Guaycurus—conflicts with them—attempts to make peace with the Indians—treachery of the Guaycurus—severe drought—arrival of a governor—promotes the navigation to Para—extent and boundaries—division into districts.—District of Camapuania—mineralogy—phytology—rivers—zoology—various Indian tribes—povoaçoes.—District of Matto Grosso—mountains—mineralogy—phytology—zoology—rivers—capital.—District of Cuiaba—mineralogy—phytology—zoology—rivers—povoaçoes—Indians.—District of Bororonia—Indians—rivers—lakes.—District of Juruenna—Indians—rivers—forts.—District of Arinos—Indians—rivers.—District of Tappiraquia—Indians—rivers.—Lands of these districts fertile and auriferous	189
CHAP. XI.
PROVINCE OF GOYAZ.
First discovery of gold—attempts of Bueno to find the Goya Territory—settlements —boundaries—extent—mineralogy—zoology—phytology—cattle and gold its exports—principal rivers—comarcas—Julgados.—District of Cayaponia—limits—Indians—rivers.—District of Goyaz—limits—mountains—capital—povoaçoes.—District of Nova Beira—limits—Indians—rivers—povoaçoes—Indians reduced to peace—aldeias established for them.—District of Tucantines—limits—rivers—Indians—povoaçoes.—District of Parannan—limits—rivers—povoaçoes.—District of Rio das Velhas—limits—rivers—Indians—povoaçoes	231
CHAP. XII.
PROVINCE OF MINAS GERAES.
Boundaries—extent—climate—discoverers of its mines—mountains—rivers—mineralogy—zoology—phytology—exports—comarcas and towns.—Comarca of Villa Rica—limits—mountains—rivers—capital—povoaçoes.—Comarca of Rio das Mortes—limits—mountains—rivers—povoaçoes.—Comarca of Sabara—limits—mountains—rivers—lakes—povoaçoes.—Comarca of Serro Frio—limits—rich in diamonds—mountains—rivers—povoaçoes.—Diamond district—Tijuco—seat of diamond junta	258
CHAP. XIII.
PROVINCE OF ESPIRITO SANTO.
Extent—boundaries—misfortunes of its donatories—spirited resistance of the Indians—partial cultivation—principally possessed by Indians—mountains—mineralogy—zoology—descents of Indians to the coast—phytology—rivers and ports—povoaçoes.—Island of Ascension	288
CHAP. XIV.
PROVINCE OF PORTO SEGURO.
Boundaries—prosperity of its first donatory—reversion to the crown in a bad state—present partial cultivation—Indians—mountains—mineralogy—zoology—phytology—rivers, lakes, and ports—povoaçoes—abrolhos	297
CHAP. XV.
PROVINCE OF BAHIA.
Boundaries—Caramuru—first donatory—cruel war of the Indians—the capitania forsaken—return of the donatory—shipwreck—slaughter of all but Caramuru—governor-general—foundation of St. Salvador.—Comarca of the Ilheos—originally a capitania—extent—fertility—mountains—mineralogy—phytology—zoology—rivers and lakes—povoaçoes.—Comarca of Jacobina—extent—mineralogy—mountains—rivers—phytology—zoology—povoaçoes.—Comarca of Bahia—extent—mountains—mineralogy—phytology—zoology—islands—rivers—povoaçoes.—St. Salvador—churches and convents—public buildings—Sepulchre of Caramuru’s wife—negroes—commerce—produce—exports in 1817 and 1818—state of society—adoption of a new constitution	309
CHAP. XVI.
PROVINCE OF SEREGIPE D’EL REY.
Colonization—reduction of the Indians—extent—mountains rivers and lakes—mineralogy—zoology—phytology—povoaçoes	347
CHAP. XVII.
PROVINCE OF PERNAMBUCO.
Voyage from Rio de Janeiro—first donatories—taken by the Dutch—restoration—reversion to the crown—Indians—boundaries—mountains—colony of negroes—mineralogy—zoology—phytology—rivers—islands—comarcas of Ollinda, Recife, Alagoas—povoaçoes—ouvidoria of the certain of Pernambuco—rivers—towns—Recife, or Pernambuco—Ollinda—Mattutos—state of society—apathy—environs—revolution in 1817—military government—adoption of a new constitution—holidays—produce—inspection—sugar engenho—contribution-fund—population—Fribourg House	355
CHAP. XVIII.
PROVINCE OF PARAHIBA.
Extent—capitania of Itamaraca—slow advancement—taken by the Dutch—restoration—capes and ports—rivers—mountains—zoology—phytology—povoaçoes—capital—British establishments—produce	394
CHAP. XIX.
PROVINCE OF RIO GRANDE DO NORTE.
Contests with Indians—conquest—taken by the Dutch—restored—extent—sterility of soil—capes and ports—mineralogy—mountains—zoology—phytology—rivers and lakes—povoaçoes—island of Fernando de Noronha	404
CHAP. XX.
PROVINCE OF SIARA.
Colonization—boundaries—Indians—taken by the Dutch—restored —mountains—mineralogy—zoology—phytology—rivers and lakes—povoaçoes	412
CHAP. XXI.
PROVINCE OF PIAUHY.
Boundaries—first settlers—cattle fazendas—mountains—mineralogy—rivers—towns	424
CHAP. XXII.
PROVINCE OF MARANHAM.
First donatory—shipwreck of persons intended for its colonization—establishment of the French—retaken—foundation of capital—taken by the Dutch—retaken—agricultural company—boundaries—rivers, ports, and islands—mineralogy—phytology—zoology—Indians—povoaçoes—city of Maranham—commerce—exports of produce	433
CHAP. XXIII.
PROVINCE OF PARA.
First settlement—contests with Indians—slavery of the Indians—their liberation—Boundaries—mineralogy—phytology—zoology—ports and rivers—Igaruana Indians.—District of Para-Proper—capital—buildings—exports—English establishments—adoption of a new constitution—towns.—District of Xingutania—limits—in possession of Indians—rivers—towns.—District of Tapajonia—limits—rivers—Indians—towns.—District of Mundrucania—rivers—principally possessed by the Indians—their different customs—towns	448
CHAP. XXIV.
PROVINCE OF SOLIMOES.
Jurisdiction—origin of its name—boundaries and extent—partially known—division into six districts—rivers—various Indians—customs—povoaçoes	477
CHAP. XXV.
PROVINCE OF GUIANNA.
Boundaries—islands—rivers—towns—Indians	485
CHAP. XXVI.
Conclusive observations	498
Appendix	501

CHAPTER I.
Voyage from England to Rio de Janeiro.

On the 11th of March, 1819, I took my departure, in the brig Echo, Captain Henderson, from the River Thames, and on the 18th, after contending with adverse winds, arrived in Portland Roads, where we took shelter till the 21st. On our departure from thence we were favoured with a fair wind for only a short period; and on the 24th it opposed us from the westward with such violence, that it rendered our attempts to beat out of the Channel abortive. We were in consequence obliged to submit to the only alternative of running for safety to Falmouth Harbour, and remained there till the 2d of April. Perhaps few situations can be conceived more irksome than this. To a mind made up for departure, every delay is deemed a misfortune in proportion as the object in pursuit is of desirable attainment, and especially in the consideration of its prolonging the time that is to re-unite us to those we love best. A light breeze from the north-east enabled us to clear the Channel on the 3d.

This part of a voyage from England, though trifling in point of distance, is regarded by sailors as pregnant with impending dangers and difficulties, the Channel being so situated that the prevailing westerly winds, at certain seasons of the year, render the egress extremely intricate. The constant[2] anxiety of the captain and crew till we passed the Islands of Scilly, contrasted with the happy security which they then evinced, were proofs of the importance they attached to it. The feelings of Englishmen on quitting the British shores must be various, and, in many instances, exquisitely interesting in pensive reflections. As for myself, the animated attachment for my native land and those so dear to me left behind produced a melancholy, heightened by the surrounding oceanic scene, which, on the other hand, was alleviated not only by a humble reliance upon that Almighty, in whose paternal hands is the greater or less share of happiness of all his creatures, but also by the hope of a successful issue attending the voyage—

We were favoured with a propitious breeze, which continued steady, at the rate of seven, eight, and nine miles an hour. On the 12th, we passed between the Island of Madeira and the African coast: the vicinity of the former, although we did not see it, was announced by the appearance of sea gulls, the only birds I had hitherto noticed, excepting one swallow and the mother cary’s chicken, not unlike the former at a distance, but rather larger, having white feathers above the tail and under the belly, the rest of a brownish cast. It is said to hatch and carry its young on the water, and is seen, I understand, in every part of the Atlantic as well as the Indian and Pacific Oceans. We met with the swallow in about 40° north latitude and 15° west longitude; it made several attempts to alight upon the vessel, but was prevented by the dog; apparently fatigued, it continued its flight in a northerly direction. This is a phenomenon attending the migration of those birds, favouring the opinion that they visit some southern or tropical climate, during the cold season in England, and is opposed to the hypothesis advanced by some of their immersion in ponds, and by others of their taking refuge in old walls and ruins. That they assume such a state of torpitude as the first would infer is very improbable.

On the morning of the 14th of April, we discovered the high peaks of three of the Canary Islands at a great distance, Grand Canary bearing south-west, and Lanzarote and Fortaventura south-east. The world of waters which had hitherto, from its varied and sometimes terrific agitation, filled the imagination with awe, was now changed into a pacific, but grand expanse, that soothed and absorbed the mind with its tranquil magnificence; and the weather, which had been cold and gloomy, was changed into a balmy mildness and enlivening[3] sunny clearness. Towards the evening, we came close up to the north-west side of Fortaventura, a long island, exhibiting a rugged tumulous combination of peaks and mountains, rising irregularly one over another, of the most barren and cheerless aspect. In vain the sun extended his genial rays over its sterile wastes, where no salutary plant appeared to take root, or the least verdure to quicken. With the assistance of the glass, I could not discover one single hut or human being along the whole face of it. There is a small port on the opposite side, where the produce, as well as that of Lanzarote, is barilla. The wind having changed, a passage could not be accomplished round either end of this island. The signal of “about ship” was given, and we stood for some hours to the northward. Pursuing a southerly course again next day, we came, at noon, close up with land, which, during the morning, a thick haze had obscured. The sun now bursting forth, presented to our view the island of Grand Canary, with its town of Palmas, furnishing a contrast of a very pleasing nature to the island already mentioned. Its romantic and commanding peaks of immense altitude had their tops concealed in clouds, which the lustre of the sun seemed unable to dispel. Its amphitheatre of mountains, adorned with lively patches of green from their very summits, fertilized by increasing cultivation, and in the most luxuriant verdure, down to the verge of the sea, concurred, with the town of Palmas, and a large village extending some distance along the parterre, with detached houses in the same direction of an elegant appearance, to render the scene peculiarly animating and lovely. The town of Palmas, which does not appear large, and the harbour, which is capacious and safe, are commanded by batteries, stationed along a range of mountains to the north of the town. Teneriffe and most of the other islands draw their supplies of corn and cattle from Grand Canary. As we proceeded along its shores, and before the close of the evening, we perceived that its cultivation was not general. The next day, the Peak of Teneriffe was indistinctly seen through the clouds that hung upon the horizon; the height, for which it is so celebrated, is apparently diminished by the elevation of the circumjacent mountains. A north-east trade wind now wafted us forward with considerable rapidity, rendered more agreeable by the delicious weather and salubrious atmosphere diffused around. The familiar and accustomed possession of the prime bounties of nature must be always gratifying to those whose senses and whose imagination are even in tolerable vigour; but to an Englishman, blest with a sound constitution, and over whom the vicissitudes of life had not, as is too often the case, cast a mantle of despondency, to deaden present pleasure and darken future prospects, and who[4] had so recently emerged from a dreary atmosphere, the enjoyment of this, to him, new-born paradisaical climate, resembled more a feeling of sudden and happy enchantment, than an elemental and natural delight, with which Providence had blessed a particular portion of the globe.

On the 22d, we made the Cape de Verd Islands, and took our course betwixt the islands of St. Anthony, St. Vincent, St. Lucia, and St. Nicholas, to the westward, Sal and Bonavista being to the eastward of us. The isle of Sal is frequented by the Americans for salt, which is collected upon it.

On the 23d, we ranged along the north-east side of St. Yago, the largest of the Cape de Verd Islands, but it was so completely enveloped in opaque clouds, that we could see no object distinctly upon it. It is, I believe, more verdant than any of the others, possessing groves of cocoa-nut trees, and bananas. The volcanic wastes of the island of Mayo, lying to the eastward of St. Yago, were not obscured by a single cloud, and the industry of man did not appear in any part of it to have subdued the sterility of nature. It was completely bare of vegetation, except an impoverished brushwood. I could only discover two or three solitary cocoa-nut trees; notwithstanding, at the end of this island nearest to us, there was a small town, possessing some apparent neatness, but without a single tree or any shelter to refrigerate the scorching rays of the sun. I observed a flag projecting from a window, which probably was the house of the governador: there was not an inhabitant to be seen, they were, no doubt, indulging in a sesta. The officers of a British ship of war, who had just come to anchor off the town, were preparing to go on shore, and might perhaps rouse some of them from their lethargy. This was a ship of about 20 guns, and we imagined she belonged to the Sierra Leone or African station, in which those islands might be included. No fortifications were visible any where, and it may be inferred, that the mother country regards so little the importance of those islands, that no precautions were ever adopted for their defence. The fogs by which they are usually obscured are attributed by some to vapours arising from the salt lakes; but as the same general law may be supposed to govern such condensations of fog, common to them as well as to the Canaries and other islands of a high elevation, I should be more disposed to think that they originate in the profuse exhalations in those latitudes, and in the increased power of attraction attached to the volcanic materials of which those accumulated masses of land are composed, thereby more effectually drawing around them this gloomy mantle. And, although I am not informed as to the circumstance, it is probable that the density and quantum of haziness are much greater when the sun[5] is in the northern tropic, and diminishes as he recedes towards the southern. From the Cape de Verds, the same favouring gale continued to swell our sails. In traversing this tropic, the heavens present the most beautiful and romantic pictures, and the ocean some of its gayest inhabitants for contemplation. It is here the rapturous scene of the celestial spring. Towards the evening’s sun especially, the firmament is seen glowing with purple, orange, and every beauteous, delicate, and rich colour, of such transparency and matchless brilliancy, that cannot be imagined, as it is never seen in a northern latitude. The diffusion of such an infinite variety of warm tints and other hues, mingled in elegant groups, around the whole horizon, enhances the vigorous power of the sapphire back-ground, or rather the rich blue ethereal canopy to which they form a deep edging, or grand and resplendent fringe. In vain would the most accomplished artist attempt its delineation; he could only look up with admiration and amazement, and, lost in wonder, the hand would be found to refuse guidance to his pencil.

When the beautiful and sublime scenes I have ineffectually attempted to give a faint idea of, fade away in the shades of night, and are succeeded by the glory of the stellar hemisphere, turn the eye to the deep, and a blaze of marine illuminations, frequently seen around the ship, in some degree compensates for their loss. This effect is occasioned by the small blubber fish floating near the surface, and Solomon, in all his glory, was not arrayed like these. The brilliant appearance, in these waters, of the bonita, albacore, pilot fish, &c. is only surpassed by the extraordinary change and rapid suffusion of delicate colours succeeding each other during the dying moments of the dolphin. The flying fish are seen in large numbers, taking their flight from the water, alarmed by the approach of the vessel, or the pursuit of the dolphin and other fish, to which they are a prey. The nautilus, commonly called by sailors “the Portuguese man of war,” moves on in slow majesty, with its sail above the water, and secure from the attacks of its neighbours by its poisonous qualities: it lowers and erects its sail at pleasure, which is something like the slice of a large lemon, only that the rind is of a pinkish hue, and the other parts nicely shaded. Here also is the shark, which may be called the destroying demon of the ocean, skulking “about, seeking whom he may devour,” with understood horror of purpose both by man and the marine inhabitants. His approach is soon[6] announced by a general hue and cry from the sailors, who are among his deadliest foes. All are instantly up in arms. Their animated and entire devotion to their purpose, in which every feeling is interested, can scarcely be equalled by the pleasurable emotions of a sportsman at the moment a fox is breaking cover. Every artifice is used by throwing out pieces of pork at the end of ropes, which he voraciously follows to the side of the ship; the weapons of death are ready; and, after striking him, and a struggle ensuing to get him on board, if, by any effort of his strength, he break away, which I have seen, great is the sullen vexation and disappointment shown by the crew. He is usually accompanied by three or four pilot fish, about the size of a whiting: they are extremely beautiful, and appear in the water as if fastened upon his back, near the head.

On the 23d of April, in 12° 34′ north latitude, I was, for the first time in my life, under a vertical sun, now by degrees moving through the northern tropic, and gradually dispensing his benign influence to the regions of the north.

On the 1st of May, in 2° north latitude, and 22° west longitude, an officer from the Rockingham, Captain Waugh, a free trader from the East Indies, boarded us, to solicit some trifles they wanted, and particularly newspapers, which their passengers, including some ladies, he stated, were extremely desirous to see. There was a peculiar pleasure in having even a transient intercourse with a ship at sea, and being enabled to relieve, in any degree, their wants. The social feelings, the fellow sympathies of man, were revived with renewed vigour by the idea of our having, on the wide and solitary ocean, been mutually so long separated from our own proper element and exposed to the perils of the deep, and by the new sight of our countrymen, after having been confined to the view only of those within the compass of the few yards that enclosed the space of the brig. It increased the kindly emotions in the awakened thoughts of absent country, and especially of the dear family circle of home.

About this time we lost the north-east trade wind, which was succeeded by calms and squalls, that detained us seven or eight days near the Line. Nothing can be experienced in a voyage much more unpleasant than this vicissitude of weather. The irksomeness of a calm near the equator is rendered almost insupportable[7] by the ardent rays of the sun; every one seems to languish: several, and often many hours drag heavily on, while the vessel makes no progress, and only experiences a disagreeable motion by the heaving of the glassy ocean, its surface not being in the least ruffled by a breath of air. In the mean time, an elemental war is brooding. A black and pitchy cloud is seen awfully and slowly moving on, with fury in its train; all is alarm; with haste the sails are lowered. The sullen langour of the atmosphere is succeeded by the “maddening tempest,” so suddenly and with so little warning, that sometimes, before every precaution can be taken, the sweeping impetuosity lays the vessel instantaneously upon her side, and, in that situation, she is hurried forward with immense velocity. These conflicting winds are as quickly followed by solid torrents of rain. In a short period, all is tranquillity again, and the returning sun, in burning radiance, annihilates the last breeze that feebly curled the face of the ocean. The same scenes alternately present themselves. During the night these sudden squalls are the most dangerous, as their approach cannot be so well ascertained.

On the first day that we were becalmed, notwithstanding the advances we occasionally made by the transient operation of those gusts, we found our latitude 1° 43′ north, and the preceding day it was only 1° 23′. This can only be accounted for by the strong northerly currents now prevailing here; and hence it would appear, that the same invariable law of attraction governs them as well as the winds. The squalls I have mentioned also came from the south and south-east, and the winds beginning at this time to blow here, issue from the same quarter, in consequence, no doubt, of the sun being in the northern tropic. If he creates a vacuum in his vicinity by the rarefaction of the air, which induces a great influx from the southern and northern hemispheres of the atmosphere, in like manner the exuberant evaporations from the sea may produce a rushing of the waters to supply what is lost (pro tempore) by vapours. Various causes, however, operate to prevent an uniform appearance in this respect, such as the occasional counter-attraction of the moon and other celestial bodies, of continents and other lands, as well as a prevailing repulsive power in nature. Still if those effects could be minutely followed through their various ramifications, it might be found that the winds and currents originate in the combinations I have ventured to suggest. Is it not possible, that the calms near the equator at this period may arise from the equally poised contention of the south-east and north-east winds meeting, and that the former, in the sun’s march through the northern tropic, will gradually gain upon the latter in extent of[8] dominion proportioned to the sun’s declination, and vice versa as he recedes through the southern tropic, or, more properly speaking, in the earth’s oblique revolution round the sun? The rust, which at this time constantly showed itself upon my razors, was probably owing to some peculiar corrosive properties in the atmosphere, or it might have arisen from some saline moisture insinuating itself every where imperceptibly.

But to attempt to comprehend or explain the extraordinary operations in the grand work of nature, in this and other latitudes, has in many instances baffled the keenest sagacity and most laborious research. Secondary causes of the phenomena in nature are often beyond the clearest ken of human intellect, how then are the faculties of the mind bewildered in the contemplation of the great First Cause! How lost and absorbed in adoration of the Divine source, the essence of all those wonderfully diversified appearances! The hand moves the pen with which I now write; I can trace the power that impels it—the cause of this effect, to the immediate impulse only, that is, to the muscles in the arm, that, arising thence, connect themselves with the hand. But can I go back any further? Can I ascertain what it is that produces this admirable power in the muscles, this secondary cause? Reason here discovers its confined limit as to remoter and efficient causes, but, bounding at once over these concealed regions of knowledge, sees and acknowledges the great original source of all finite existence, and in the power of thinking, and in the movement of his bodily frame, man feels that

He has an undeniable and practical evidence of the existence, power, and goodness of an invisible and eternal Being, from whom all creation has emanated.

On the 6th of May, we crossed the Line in 23° west longitude. The calms and squalls were succeeded by cloudy weather and light breezes from the south and south-east, which in a few days assumed the steadiness of the trade wind, but not accompanied with that beautiful serenity and brightness of sky, which we experienced whilst in the north-east trade wind. Neptune and his wife Amphitrite did not make their appearance; or, to speak without mythological allusion, the usual ceremonies on crossing the Line were not observed, owing, I presume, to the fatigue and exhaustion sustained by the sailors, in consequence of the variable weather.

On the 22d of May, we discovered, at a distance, Cape Frio, a discovery [9]which always fills with joy the breasts of those making a voyage to this part of the world. And no wonder. For having launched out upon the wide immeasurable ocean, where uncertainty and dangers always accompany him, man, at this refreshing sight, feels reassured of his safety, and obtains a promise of the eventual success of his voyage. Besides, he experiences a rich glow of mind at viewing the natural element of his support and existence, and a feeling of deep interest on beholding, if for the first time, a new portion of the world. From this promontory, the coast swells in a north-east direction to Cape St. Roque, forming the most easterly portion of territory in South America. Rio de Janeiro lies exactly west from, and in the same latitude with, Cape Frio, at a distance of about eighty miles. The coast betwixt them presents a continued appearance of rugged mountains, and through every aperture they are seen undulating in accumulated alpines far back into the interior of this vast continent. Tremendous precipices, at every opening of the nearer mountains, strike the imagination with wonder, snowy clouds occasionally obscuring the contracted valleys at their feet, and resting in detached and airy vapours upon their sides, whilst their summits and other parts are brightened by the purest atmosphere and sunshine. This scene conveys to the European traveller a grand idea and foretaste of the peculiar magnificence of size and aspect, with which nature has displayed herself in the new continent. After proceeding about forty miles along this shore, a view is commanded from Cape Frio to Gavea, or the Parrot’s Beak, a distance of near one hundred miles. The entrance, through a narrow inlet amongst the mountains, to the bay of Rio de Janeiro, is pointed out by one of a singular shape, resembling a sugar-loaf, the strata of which it is composed appearing to run perpendicularly. Here is presented one of the most picturesque and beautiful scenes that can well be imagined. Abrupt and towering precipices of wild and fanciful shapes, universally robed in verdant shrubs of various kinds, surround this fine bay, containing nearly one hundred islands, to the circumference of which the eye cannot extend. The bases of these mountains, consisting of granite, are beautified with numerous sweeping crescents of more perfect cultivation, edged with white cottages and houses, from whence narrow valleys, adorned with orange trees, are seen winding amongst the mountains. The clear, sunny, and smiling face of nature; the verdant islands, which look in their loveliness as if they were intended for the abode of beings more refined in intellect and more pure in heart than weak and erring man; the shipping dispersed about the bay, the city seen at a distance, combined with an airy and elegant aqueduct, which conveys from the mountains water for the supply of the town, all impressing the[10] idea of social happiness, of the comforts and elegancies produced by science and civilized society, are, after a long and consequently tedious voyage, welcome sights to the aquatic traveller, re-enlivening his spirits, and, in the anticipation of the enjoyments of his proper element, land, are the beginnings of the compensation it affords him for the privations he has been enduring at sea. A little higher up, on the opposite side to the sugar-loaf, is the fort of Santa Cruz, where ships for a few minutes bring to, and answer various questions. From hence a signal is made, which is repeated from a hill close by the town, announcing to what country the ship arrived belongs. The vessel then cast anchor off the island of Fort Villegagnon, to which place she despatched a boat to bring on board a serjeant and two soldiers, who remained as a guard, till nearly a day was consumed before the captain of the port, a military officer, a doctor, &c. had, one after the other, come off in boats, at their pleasure, to visit the ship, creating an unnecessary and tedious delay. At last, the vessel moved on to the vicinity of the Isle das Cobras, from whence, after a custom-house guard had arrived, the soldiers conducted the Captain and myself to the palace and other offices, where the ship’s name, &c. were given in. On here taking leave of the brig, I must do justice to my feelings by observing, that I received the most friendly attention from the Captain, whose gentlemanly and well-regulated conduct were highly honourable to him.

On landing, the prepossession regarding this place gives way to an impression by no means favourable, produced by narrow streets, crowded with negroes, whose black faces and savage songs, which they howl out as an encouragement to each other under the burdens and loads which they drag along, fill the mind of the stranger, unaccustomed to such scenes, with dejection. The fairy visions in the bay, too recent yet to have disappeared from the imagination, vanished at such discordant sounds and uncouth appearances; and suffering, rather than satisfaction and enjoyment, appeared to be resident here. The discordant sounds afforded, perhaps, some consolatory relief to the poor negroes, by dividing their attention in some degree from their toil. They were an effort of nature, ever fertile in resources under calamity, to drive away care; but they were on that account a proof of their misery. They thus imparted a trifling gratification to the sable sufferers, but they penetrated mournfully to my heart, unused as I was to such misery-elicited minstrelsy, for it was slavery under a temporary attempt at disguise. “Disguise thyself as thou wilt, still, slavery!” said I, with Sterne, “still thou art a bitter draught! and though thousands, in all ages, have been made to drink of thee, thou art no less bitter on that account.”

The human frame will seldom bear, without injury, its transmission to a climate very dissimilar to that to which its birth and previous residence have accustomed it. Thus the English residing here exhibit in their appearance the effects of this tropical climate, and, although they are otherwise in health, there is a debility manifest in their countenances, something resembling the appearance of a person in a state of convalescence after illness.

I waited upon Henry Chamberlaine, Esq. the British charge d’affaire, with a letter of introduction from a nobleman, and discovered, at that interview, that my expectations of entering actively upon the functions of a public situation were not likely to be realized; I therefore adopted the determination, to which my mind was pre-disposed, of devoting my time to the acquirement of such intelligence, regarding the vast regions of the Brazil, as circumstances would admit of. Houses of public accommodation may be said scarcely to exist in this city, and are of such inferior order, that strangers are peculiarly fortunate if they are received into the residence of a friend. The liberality and frank hospitality of a merchant, to whom I brought a letter of introduction, relieved me from any inconvenience on this score. Previously to my entering upon a general description of this city, and the several provinces composing the Portuguese possessions in South America, of which it is now the metropolis, it may not be irrelevant to give some account of the first discovery of this widely-extended continent.

The honour of discovering the new world, it is well known, justly belongs to Christopher Columbus, a pilot of Genoa, although it derives its name from Americanus Vespuccius, a Florentine navigator, who performed two voyages to this hemisphere, under the auspices of his Castilian Majesty, and two others by order of Emanuel, King of Portugal. The latter voyages the Portuguese writers flatly deny, and attribute the promulgation of a story so devoid of truth to the arrogance and pride of Vespuccius; nor, in fact, does his relation respecting this point appear to be supported by any collateral testimony. A mere accidental occurrence, indeed, induced Columbus first to entertain the idea of launching out upon unknown seas. The master of a caravelleon, named Francisco Sanches, about the year 1480, arrived at Madeira, where Columbus then was, in a most pitiable condition, with three or four sailors only remaining, and nearly exhausted, in consequence of a tremendous tempest which had assailed their ungovernable bark, and driven them to a remote western longitude, where they saw, or fancied they saw, land. It was in those days imagined, that the eastern coast of Asia was the western boundary of the Atlantic Ocean, and Columbus was persuaded, that the land which Sanches had seen was the island of Japan, or some other island upon that coast, and which was then only arrived at by navigating around the coast of Africa. The novel circumstance stirred up in his mind the most animating presentiments;—the glory of opening to India a shorter and more easy passage, by proceeding directly across the Atlantic, inspired Columbus with enthusiasm, and he flattered himself, that the disclosure of his ideas would produce ready concurrence in furnishing the adequate equipments for the enterprise. He proceeded to Genoa for the purpose of proposing his plan, but it was regarded there as a chimera. He submitted the same proposition to John II. of Portugal, whose subject he then was, which was rejected by the votes of some chosen geographers. He next directed his way to the court of Castile, where the learned ones entertained the same sentiments[13] upon the subject as the cosmographers of Lusitania, and where, perhaps, he would have been equally unsuccessful had not the spontaneous offers which Luiz de Santangal made to provide all the money requisite for the expedition, and the voluntary proposal of Don Pedro de Mendonca to contribute one-eighth of the expenses, overcome every difficulty. He sailed from Palos, with three caravelleons under his command, on the 3d of August, 1492, and, passing the Canaries, directed his course to the westward, till the 11th of October, when he descried an island, which he called St. Salvador, now one of the Bahama Islands. He was much disheartened at having traversed so much of the ocean with so little success; but he continued, however, the voyage, and discovered the Island of Cuba, of Hispaniola, now St. Domingo, and left 38 men there in a wooden fort. He then retraced his way back, and arrived at Lisbon on the 6th of March, 1493. Columbus made three other voyages across the Atlantic, under the protection of Ferdinand V. His second voyage was commenced from Cadiz, on the 25th of September, 1493. He re-visited the Island of Hispaniola, discovered Jamaica, and a great many other islands to the southward of Cuba, and which, for its fertility and picturesque beauty, he denominated the garden of the kingdom. Upon his third voyage, in 1498, he saw the island of Trinidad, at the mouth of the Oronocos, on the 1st of August. He afterwards disembarked on various parts of the coast of Paria, returned to Hispaniola, and then to Europe. He sailed again from Cadiz on the 9th of May, 1502, a third time visited Hispaniola, and continued to navigate onward till he discovered the Island of Guanaia, near Cape Honduras, and subsequently explored all the coast of the continent, from Cape Gracias to Porto Bello.

Some persons, however, affirm that it is a great injustice to attribute the honour of discovering this hemisphere to either of those navigators, when it is certain that the oriental Syberios, called Choukes, were in the habit of passing the Straits of Bhering, to the American continent, in the summer season, from time immemorial. The Danes discovered Greenland about the end of the tenth century, and the Norwegians colonized it in the following one; and if this land is not a portion of the continent, it is at least an island belonging to it.

Having briefly described the first discovery of the American continent, it will now be in unison with the object of this work, to invite the attention to an investigation of the circumstances resulting from the discovery of that portion of it more immediately under consideration, and which has excited endeavours on my part, very inadequate to render justice to a subject of such prodigious magnitude. The Portuguese imagine (and the inscriptions met with in the Brazil[14] would appear to corroborate the notion) that their countryman and ancestor, Pedro Alvarez Cabral, was the first discoverer of that country; but this honour indubitably belongs to the celebrated Spanish pilot, Vincente Yanez Pinson, the companion of Columbus in his first voyage across the Atlantic; and who, it is affirmed, would not have acquired the fame of first descrying the new world, had not the despondency which was clouding his mind, in the progress of that voyage, been dispelled by the animating hope of success with which Pinson encouraged him. In virtue of a commission granted to Vincente Yanez Pinson, by the Castilian court, he quitted his native shores in pursuit of undiscovered countries, in the month of December, 1499. He shaped his course more to the southward than his late commander, Columbus; and on the 26th of January, 1500, discovered land in about 8° south latitude, having crossed the Atlantic in as short a period as the voyage is commonly accomplished in at this day; evincing an undaunted spirit and disregard to the prevailing practice then existing amongst navigators, of taking in all sail and lying to during the night. The discovery of this new land must have been highly consolatory and gratifying to his feelings; he gave it, therefore, the name of Cape Consolation, which can be no other than Cape St. Augustine, situated about twenty miles to the south of Pernambuco. Pinson vainly went through the ceremony of taking possession of the country for the Spanish crown. The natives which they saw were exceedingly shy, and they endeavoured without success to accomplish any intercourse with them. He proceeded northward, towards Cape St. Roque, with his ships, and, again landing upon the intervening coast, his people had several rencounters with a horde of savages very different to the first they had seen. These Indians used the bow and arrow, and attacked the Spaniards with great spirit and dexterity. This reception induced Pinson to continue his course along the northern coast of the Brazil; and, after proceeding as far as the Oronocos, he returned to Europe without any manifest advantage resulting from this undertaking. Although he was unfortunate in losing some of his ships on the homeward voyage, he displayed considerable nautical skill in conducting his vessels in safety along the most difficult and dangerous part of the Brazilian coast.

During the period that Pinson was thus occupied, Portugal was fitting out a fleet with much pomp and parade in the river Tagus, not with any project of discovering a new territory, but in consequence of Don Vasco da Gama having arrived at Lisbon, with certain intelligence of having ascertained the navigation to India, round the Cape of Good Hope. The Portuguese King, Emanuel, determined to send a fleet to establish friendship and a treaty of commerce[15] with the King of Calcutta, and to create a factory in the same city. Merchandise of the best taste was selected for the outward cargo, and the ships were to be laden in return with spices. For the command of this fleet, which consisted of ten caravels, and three larger vessels, a fidalgo was chosen, called Pedro Alvarez Cabral. The number of persons on board amounted to twelve hundred well selected and well armed. The fleet was prepared in front of the Rastello, now called Belem; and it was determined that it should sail on the 9th of March, 1500. At the vespers preceding, which was on Sunday, the King went with all the court to open mass, in the hermitage of our Lady of Belem, (or Bethlehem,) which site is occupied at this day by the magnificent monastery of P. P. Jeronymos. Diogo Ortiz, Bishop of Ceuta, delivered a discourse upon the object of the expedition; and, during the service, a flag was placed upon the altar, with the cross of the order of Christ, which the Bishop, with imposing ceremony, consecrated; and the King, with his own hands, delivered it to Cabral, who was near his Majesty during the ceremonies. The funçaō being finished, the colours were carried in procession, accompanied by the King, to the beach, where Cabral and most of the captains kissed his hand, and at the same time a grand salute was fired by the whole fleet. This was considered the most powerful and brilliant armament that had ever sailed from Portugal for distant countries. The other captains were Sancho de Thoar (with succession to Admiral Cabral), N. Coelho (who had been with Vasco da Gama), S. de Miranda d’Azevedo, A. G. da Sylva, V. d’Athayde, S. de Pina, N. Leytao, P. d’Athayde, L. Pirez, Gaspar de Lemos, the celebrated Bartholomew Dias, discoverer of the Cape of Good Hope, and Diogo Dias, his brother, who were to remain with the factory to be established. There were, besides, seven Franciscan friars, subordinate to one named Frey Henrique, who was afterwards bishop of Ceuta, eight chaplains, and a vicar, to administer the sacraments in the factory of Calcutta. Ayres Correa was appointed factor, or head of the establishment; and G. Barboza, and Pedro Vas de Caminho, escrivaōs, or writers.

On the 14th of March, the fleet passed the Canaries; and after having seen the island of St. Nicholas, one of the Cape de Verds, on the 22d, they discovered that the vessel of V. d’Athayde was missing. Cabral took every pains to fall in with it again, but without effect. He continued his voyage, and in order to avoid being detained by the calms peculiar to the coast of Africa, and to profit by the prevailing north-east trade wind, they stood so much to the westward, that, on the 21st of April, (the last Oitava of Pascal,) they met with signals of land, (which were certain floating plants,) and late on the following day, in latitude 17° south, they saw a large round mountain with smaller hills, which were the highest portions[16] of the Serra, now called Aymores, mostly covered with wood. Cabral made a signal to the other ships to approach the land, and by sun-set they anchored in 19 fathoms, about six leagues from it. From respect to the oitavario,[1] Cabral gave the mountain the name of Mount Pascal, which it yet retains; and the land he called Vera Cruz. The following day they sailed towards the land, and came in front of the mouth of a river now called Rio de Frade (River Friar); and remained half a league distant from it during the night, with some difficulty, in consequence of a strong south-east wind setting in. Captain N. Coelho examined the river the same day, which was found incapable of receiving even the smallest vessels of the fleet; and the wind not being favourable to coast towards the south, Cabral ordered the fleet to navigate northward, and despatched Affonso Lopez, his pilot, in one of the smallest caravels, to proceed nearer the beach, and to examine the first part he met with.

The squadron having coasted on about ten leagues, met with the bay of Corôa Vermelha, otherwise Cabral, where, towards the evening, the caravels nearest entered. Affonso Lopez, who was sounding the port, met with two young Indians in a canoe, whom he carried to the admiral, who had anchored with the larger ships a league from the reefs, which were at the entrance of the bay. They were next morning placed upon the beach dressed in Portuguese clothes, accompanied by a degradado, or criminal, in order to observe the mode of living which prevailed amongst the natives.

The fleet remained here eight days, during which time mass was celebrated twice by Frey Henrique; the first, on Easter Sunday, upon an island (its name is now Corôa Vermelha) within the bay, in sight of a great number of Indians assembled upon the continental beach; the other, on the 1st of May, at the foot of a grand cross, which had been erected upon the main land, with the arms of King Emanuel, in testimony of the solemn possession which in his name had been taken of this new land of Vera Cruz.

There is a letter in the naval archives at Rio de Janeiro, written by P. V. de Caminho (one of the escrivaōs already mentioned) to King Emanuel, giving a minute detail of all the circumstances attending the stay of the armament in this port, which Cabral called “Porto Seguro,” in noticing which, the above letter, written in language differing from that of the present day, says, “Acharam hos ditos navios pequenos huum a recife com huum porto dentro muyti boo, e muyti seguro com huuma muy larga entrada, e meterem-se dentro.” Also, “entraram toda las naaos e amcoraram-se em simco, seis bracas, ha qual amcorajem[17] demtro he tam grande e tam fremosa, e tam segura, que podem jaser demtro neela mais de duzentos navios e naaos.”[2] He says the Indians were quite naked, and their bodies painted with various colours. They wore pendants of white bone from their ears. Their cheeks were in like manner ornamented with bones, and their lips slit, into which similar ornaments were also introduced. They used bows and arrows. The two natives who came on board, when they saw the gold embroidery upon the collar of Cabral’s coat, danced, put their hands to the ground, and then to the collar: they showed the same feeling in regard to silver; from which it was inferred that those precious metals were not unknown to them. This letter also says, “Mostraram lhes huum papagayo pardo que aquy ho capitam tras; tomaram no logo na maao; mostraram lhes huum carneyro, non fezeram delle mençam; mostraram lhes huuma galinha, e asy aviam medo dela, e nom lhe queriam poeer ha maao.”[3] The Portuguese offered them bread, dressed fish, and other things, which on tasting they put out of their mouths; also wine, which they did not like, and would not take it a second time. They established a friendly intercourse with those Indians, from whom they received in exchange for trifling articles, fruits, farinha (or flour) of the mandioca, maize, &c. This writer, with many of the captains, went a league and a half up the country, where they met with a body of Indians, who had nine or ten houses rudely built of wood covered with grass; each house had two small entrances, and was large enough to receive thirty or forty persons. It consisted of but one apartment, without any division. They bartered with them things of no value for large and beautiful red parrots, two small green ones, and other things. They went on shore again the next day to get wood and wash linen, when they found sixty or seventy Indians, without bows or any thing else, upon the beach, which number soon increased to two hundred, all without bows and arrows. They mixed amongst the Portuguese, and assisted them to collect wood and put it on board the boats. That Cabral considered this land an island is evidenced by the conclusion of the letter. “Beijo haas maaos de[18] V. A. deste Porto Seguro da vosa Ilha da Vera Cruz. Hoje, Sesta feira primeiro dia de Mayo, 1500. P. V. de Caminha.”[4]

On the 2d of May, this fleet sailed from Porto Seguro, and proceeded on its voyage to India, leaving two degradados behind, who were seen lamenting and crying upon the beach, and the men of the country comforting them, demonstrating that they were not a people devoid of pity.[5] One of them soon learnt the idiom of the Indians called Tupininquins. He served as interpreter to the first Portuguese who arrived there, and afterwards returned home. Some of the Portuguese writers are piqued at the Spanish authors, Berredo and Antonio Galvum, for pretending, as they say, that their countryman, Vincente Yanez Pinson first discovered the Brazil; and they bring, as testimony against the Spaniards, the following statement of Robertson. “Vicente Yanez Pinson, one of the admiral’s companions in his first voyage, sailed from Palos with four ships; he stood boldly towards the south, and was the first Spaniard who ventured to cross the equinoctial line; but he seems to have landed on no part of the coast beyond the mouth of the Marignon, or River of the Amazons.” Robertson does not make a positive assertion that Pinson did not land upon any other part of the Brazilian coast, nor does he enter into particulars or give any dates. The river Amazons is the north-western boundary of the Brazil; and even if he only landed at the mouth of this great river, he of course landed upon the Brazilian territory, and was unquestionably the first discoverer of it. Conceding to the Portuguese the passage which they adduce from Robertson, it offers no contradiction to the circumstances and dates already detailed of Pinson’s voyage, which show him to have anticipated the Portuguese at least three months in this discovery. Cabral despatched Gaspar de Lemos from Porto Seguro, to announce to the King this new land, which had been taken possession of in his Majesty’s name. It is said that Lemos coasted northward as far as Cape St. Roque, to ascertain the extent of this territory which they had considered an island. Emanuel was so delighted with the discovery of Vera Cruz, that he resolved to send out another squadron to explore more minutely its extent; and it appears that three caravels were ordered[19] to sail upon this project from the Tagus, on the 1st of May, 1501, but there is a considerable doubt who was the commander of them; some say it was Americanus Vespuccius, others, that it was Gonsalo Coelho. Cabral met this squadron at Goree on his return from India, but the commander’s name is not mentioned. “Che gamos ao Cabo da Boa Esperance dia de Pascoa e encontrando alli bom tempo, continuamos a viagem, e aportamos junto a Cabo Verde em Bezenegue, onde encontramos tres caravellas, que El Rey de Portugal mandara para descubrir a terra nova que tinhamos achado hindo para Calecute.”[6] Francisco de Cunha, author of the Geographical Description of Portuguese America, states that (“Gonsala Coelho fora o primeiro explorador da Costa Bazillica depois de Cabral e Lemos,”) Gonsalo Coelho was the first explorer of the Brazilian coast after Cabral and Lemos. Americanus Vespuccius, in his own manuscript, asserts that he undertook two voyages for the King of Portugal, this being the first. It is difficult to arrive at a fair conclusion from this conflicting testimony, whether he or G. Coelho had the command of those three caravels. The Portuguese deny positively that it was Vespuccius; and a French writer of “the General History of Voyages” peremptorily falsifies all that Vespuccius has advanced upon the subject. “Les relations d’Americ Vespuce contienent le recit de deux voiages, qu’il fit sur la même côte (du Brezil), au nom d’Emanuel, Rio de Portugal; mais les dates en sont fausses, et c’est en quoi consiste l’imposture; car il est prouvé par tous les temoignages contemporains que dans le tems qu’il nomme, il étoit emploie à d’autres expeditions.”[7] Antonio Galvum mentions the expedition but not the commander. All the evidence however, regarding this squadron, concur as to the time of its sailing, and arrival at the Brazil on the 17th of August. After a long and tempestuous voyage, they made land near Rio Grande, to the south of Cape St. Roque, where they met with Indians of a savage nature and decidedly cannibals. Several people from the Portuguese ships were seized by them, roasted over a large fire in presence of their[20] countrymen, with loud shoutings and rejoicings. The cannibals were so expert with their bows and arrows, that this fleet was considerably annoyed by them, and induced to coast on to the latitude of 8° south, near Pernambuco, where they met with friendly Indians,[8] and established an intercourse with them. After a few days, they continued their voyage along the coast, and met with a kind reception every where from the natives, who allowed them to land and make their observations without injury upon the country and its productions. They described the natives as being exceedingly well made, and universally attached to the custom of perforating their faces and ears, and wearing bones and stones as ornaments. They coasted on to 32° south latitude, and, standing out to sea, reached as high a latitude as 52° south, where, in consequence of a tempestuous lebeccio, they were compelled to return, and arrived at Lisbon in September, 1502, having lost two vessels.

Another expedition of six caravels sailed from Lisbon on the 10th of June, 1503, with the avowed object of prosecuting still further the examination of Vera Cruz. A variety of contradictory statements render it doubtful who was the real commander of this squadron, although the balance of testimony in this, as in the former case, is much in favour of Gonsalo Coelho. Americanus Vespuccius again alleges that he accompanied this fleet, and with two ships proceeded forward to the coast of the Brazil, leaving the other four vessels at an island, some of them wrecks; and he says those four vessels were all lost through the want of ability on the part of the commander, whose name he does not disclose. A work published at Paris, attributing the command of the three first caravels to Vespuccius, continues thus:—“El Rey D. Manuel extremamente affeicoado a Vespucio deu lhe o commando de seis navios com os quaes sahiu a dez de Mayo, 1503, e passou ao longo das costas d’Africa, e do Brazil, com o intuito de descubrir uma passagem pelo occidente para as Ilhas Mallucas, como ao depois se-descubriu: depois d’apportar na Bahia de todos os Santos, navegou athe os Abrolhos e rio Curababo, como nāo tinha mantimentos senāo para Vinte mezes, tomou a resoluçao de voltar a Portugal onde chegou a dezoito de Junho, 1504.”[9] Maneol Ayres de Cazal supposes Christovam Jacques to[21] have been the commander, and Francisco de Cunha says, that the King “Mandou logo preparar outra armada de caravellas que entregou a Christovam Jacques, fidalgo de sua casa e com o titulo de Cap-Mor, o mandou continuar n’este empressa descubrindo aquella costa, sahui armada, e seguindo viagem chegou a costa, sondando baixos e rios pondo padroes d’armas Portuguezes, foi dar a huma bahia, aque poz o nome de Todos Santos, e depois deligencias se recolhou a Portugal.”[10] But Damian de Goes assigns the command to Goncallo Coelho. “No mesmo anno de 1503 mandou Goncallo Coelho com seis naus a terra de St. Cruz com que partiu de Lisboa a hos dez dias de mez de Junho; das quaes por ainda terem pouca noticia da terra perdeu quatro, e has outras duas trouxe aho regno com mercadorias da terra que entam nam eram outras que pau vermelho que chamam Brazil, e papagaios.”[11]

The testimony of three writers attribute the command of these six caravels to three distinct individuals; but, from a fair investigation of each statement, that of Goes, who assigns the command to Coelho, appears more consonant with truth and the intentions of the King, than the other two relations. The collateral supporter of Vespuccius’ claim, represents the object of the expedition to be for the discovery of the Moluccas, which certainly does not coincide with the desire of an immediate and continued exploration of St. Cruz, (or Vera Cruz,) that seemed to actuate his Majesty solely in fitting it out; nor does this account say any thing of the loss of four of the caravels, which is generally admitted. Cunha, who gives the command to Jacques, most probably alludes to the armament which that person had under his orders in the[22] year 1516, when he proceeded to the Brazil, and then entered the bay of All Saints.

Assuming that G. Coelho was the admiral of these caravels, on traversing the Atlantic they were driven by a severe gale to 3° south latitude, where a loss of four was sustained upon some rocks in the proximity of an island, which beyond a doubt was Fernando de Noronha, situated in 3° 50′ south latitude. The two remaining vessels continued their course to the coast of Vera or St. Cruz, and made land near a magnificent bay (Bahia), which they entered, and gave the appellation of Todos os Santos, (being All Saints Day.) They coasted on southward, constantly approximating to the land, where the shore presented no obstacles, minutely inspecting all its remarkable rivers, ports, capes, and headlands, the adjacent islands, and the coast generally, as far as Cape Virgins, near the Straits of Magellan. They erected stone pillars, bearing the arms of Portugal, in some of the most conspicuous situations. They left at Porto Seguro, a colony consisting of a part of the persons who had escaped from the shipwrecked vessels, with two Franciscan missionaries, and returned to Portugal laden with Brazil wood. This wood had now acquired such reputation in Europe, that the name of St. Cruz, otherwise Vera Cruz, given to the country by Cabral, was lost in the denomination which it universally received of the Brazil, (or Brazil wood country.)

In the same year, 1503, before the explorer Coelho reached the land of Vera Cruz, Don Affonso d’Albuquerque arrived upon the coast, having left Lisbon, on the 6th of April, with a squadron under his command for India: the latitude or part of the Brazil that he saw is not stated, but he observed the cassia and verniz trees. (“Buona somma di cassia et di vernizo, altro di momenti non abiamo compreso”—Ramuzio.) Shortly after Coelho’s return, a contract was granted for the Brazil wood, and the colony began to be frequently visited by the caravels of the contractors.

The King of Castile despatched Juan Dias de Solis, in the year 1509; and it is said the celebrated pilot Vincente Yanez Pinson accompanied him, to take possession of a part of the newly-discovered country, and in pursuance of this project they erected crosses upon different parts of the coast. The King of Portugal remonstrated against this proceeding as an intrusion upon his share of the division of undiscovered countries, which Alexander VI. had very artfully assigned to those two nations. Feelings of bitter regret cannot but arise in the mind, on contemplating, at the present day, this fine and fairest portion of the new world, placed in such hands by an imaginary partition of[23] unknown lands. Had this best and richest region of America fallen to the share of the English, French, or Dutch, it would no doubt have assumed a very different appearance, compared with its actual state. That this would have been the case is evident, from the present immensely superior condition of the Anglo-American states, the territory of which was colonized at a later period than Brazil, and whose soil is in general so inferior to the latter country. The occasion of the difference may be mainly attributed to the very opposite genius of the governments and religion under the English and Portuguese; the free and wise character of the former giving every facility to talent and industry of all descriptions, while the ignorant and oppressive nature of the latter, especially in relation to the commercial restrictions, which, till the arrival of the King, had unfortunately existed, and in the domination of the priesthood over the consciences and property of the people, operating as a paralysis on agricultural, commercial, and scientific enterprise, and upon all the beneficial pursuits of the mind. It is now, however, pleasing to observe, that a very striking change has and is taking place in these matters, the views of his present Majesty being favourable to the amelioration of the country.

In 1510, a Portuguese ship was wrecked at the entrance of the Bay of All Saints. The greater part of the crew escaped, and twenty-five years afterwards nine sailors were found living amongst the Indians. Another account affirms that they were all seized by the natives and devoured excepting Diogo Alvarez, a man of distinguished family, who contrived to make himself useful to those cannibals; and acquired the name of “Caramura”—“a man of fire,” on his first discharging a gun, which he had saved from the wreck.

In 1513, George Lopez Bixorda presented to King Emanuel three Brazilian Indians, whom he had brought home in a contract vessel. They were dressed with feathers, according to the fashion of their tribe.

The King of Castile ordered Solis upon a second expedition, in the year 1515, with a view of discovering a western passage to India. In the prosecution of this voyage he discovered a large river, which he called the River Solis. This name was very improperly superseded by the appellation of Prata, or Plate, (the Silver River.) He lost his life upon its banks by the hands of the Indians, who slew him with their clubs, and roasted and devoured him within sight of his countrymen. In justice, the river ought to have retained his name. His death frustrated the object of the voyage, and the ships put back, took in Brazil wood near the island of Itamaraca, and returned to Spain. The Portuguese[24] again demanded satisfaction for this infringement, which was at last amicably adjusted.

Christovam Jacques, in the year 1516, entered the bay of All Saints with a squadron of caravels, and in the course of exploring its extensive limits, its rivers, and creeks, he fell in with two French ships, which had previously entered the bay, and were loading with Brazil wood, of which they had a considerable quantity on board, as well as parrots and monkeys. He engaged the vessels, and after a spirited defence they were destroyed. Subsequently, it would appear from the testimony of a letter of donation to Pedro Lopez de Souza, (who chose Itamaraca for part of his grant,) and by one which John III. ordered to be written to Martim Affonso de Souza, that Christovam Jacques was employed in establishing a factory upon the channel which separates the island of Itamaraca from the continent, destined to facilitate the exportation of Brazil wood, and to impede the attempts of other nations who might visit that quarter in quest of it.

Diogo Garciam, a Portuguese pilot in the service of the Castilian court, arrived near the mouth of the river Paraguay, in the year 1527, and found there the ships with which Sebastian Caboto had sailed from Cadiz, with the intention of proceeding to the Moluccas by the straits of All Saints, now Magellan’s. He learned that the captain had gone up the Paraguay, then River Solis, and proceeded with two launches much above the confluence of the Parana in pursuit of him. He found him engaged in the construction of the fort of St. Anna, where they mutually agreed to give to the river Solis the name of the river Prata, in consequence of seeing small pieces of that metal in the possession of the Indians. Herrera states, that Diogo Garciam, on his way to the river Solis, entered the bay of St. Vincente, (then the River Innocentes,) where a Portuguese, who had been shipwrecked, provided him with refreshments; also, that Garciam anchored off the island of Patos, at the present day St. Catherine’s, where the Indians furnished him with some provisions. He carried with him sixty men, in two brigantines, to the fort of St. Anna; and before his departure he despatched one of the largest vessels of his squadron to St. Vincente, to take in a cargo, which he had agreed with the Portuguese mentioned, to be sent to Portugal. It is probable that this individual was either Joam Ramalho or Antonio Rodriguez, whom Martim Affonso de Souza found there five years afterwards. It would appear that some Portuguese had been established at St. Vincente some years; and the evidence of Herrera,[25] that some Indians had been shipped from thence to Portugal in 1527, would tend to demonstrate that a factory had existed there previous to the arrival of Martin A. de Souza, (the first donatory,) and which factory had conceded to Pedro Goes the power of shipping to Portugal a certain number of aboriginal Indians, free from all the duties which it was customary to pay. (Forros de todos os dereitos, que custamavam pagar.) If this factory existed, neither the period of its commencement is evident, nor by whom it was established.

The intelligence which the ship of Garciam brought to Portugal, in the year 1528, that the Spaniards had formed an establishment upon the river Plate, induced King John III. who wished that river to become the divisionary line, to despatch an armament, in the year 1531, under the command of Martim Affonso de Souza, with orders to erect fortifications and to distribute lands to those who wished to establish themselves in the country. The fleet, after having made and recognised Cape St. Augustin, navigated along the coast and entered the bay of All Saints, where they discovered and captured two French vessels. Joam de Souza, captain of one of the ships composing the armament, was sent to announce to the King this circumstance. Martim Affonso continued his voyage to the south, and after refreshing at Porto Seguro, he found out and entered the bay of St. Luzia, to which he gave the name of Rio de Janeiro, in consequence of discovering it on the 1st of January, 1532. Prosecuting the voyage, and always keeping as near land as possible, he gave to the most remarkable and important places, the names of the saints on whose days he discovered them. Having passed the island of St. Sebastian, on the 20th of the same month, he proceeded to that part of the port where it is supposed the factory was situated, and of which no doubt he was previously informed. It appears, however, after various operations upon the northern bar of the port to establish there the colonists, who wished to remain in the land, he changed his plan and removed them to the southern bar. He spent eleven months in the execution of various measures upon the coast, and it was the month of December before he arrived at the river Plate; for the sun, say the Portuguese, was on the tropical line of Capricorn. (O sol chegou ao tropico de Capricornio.) Not meeting with any Spanish settlements upon any part of the coast, he returned to the colony at the southern bar of the bay of Santos, augmenting it considerably, by giving lands to all individuals who determined to settle there, in pursuance of the orders he had received. He sent eighty men into the interior, for the purpose of discovering or making a conquest of the mines of Cannanea. The entire party were murdered by the Carijos Indians.

In the same year that Martim Affonso sailed from the Tagus, a Portuguese squadron captured and conducted to Lisbon a ship of Marseilles, which had been laden with Brazil wood, at Pernambuco, where they demolished the Portuguese factory of Itamaraca, founded by C. Jacques, and left sixty Frenchmen in their place. This information induced the King to send Duarthe Coelho Pereyra to expel the French, which he accomplished, and removed the factory to the margin of the river Hyguaraçu, a few miles distant from the first situation. This new establishment was the origin of the town of Hyguaraçu, to whose mother-church the same D. C. Pereyra, being then the donatory of the captaincy of Pernambuco, gave for patrons the saints Cosme and Damian, in gratitude for the expulsion of the French on the day of those saints, in the year 1531. It may be here remarked, that very little progress, up to this period, would appear to have been made by the Portuguese for the colonization of this country, now known to them thirty-two years, and which they had assumed the right of calling and considering their own.

King John III. at last roused by the attempts which the French merchants were making to form establishments near the places now called Pernambuco and Bahia, also by the formation of colonies, which the Spaniards were promoting on the banks of the Paraguay, determined to people this continent; and, in order to facilitate the colonization, he divided the coast into certain large portions of fifty leagues, which, under the denomination of capitanias, (captaincies,) were to be bestowed on individuals distinguished by their services to the crown; and who were to go personally, or to send colonists, in ships, at their own cost, receiving an uncontrolled jurisdiction over these royal donations. The historian, Joam de Barros, who was one of the donatories, and was presented with the district of Maranham, affirms that the country was partitioned into twelve captaincies; but there were actually only nine, as five portions which he probably took into his account, were divided betwixt Martim Affonso de Souza and his brother Pedro Lopez de Souza, who were the two first donatories that settled in the Brazil. Martim Affonso, who has been previously mentioned, received a considerable tract of country contiguous to St. Vincente, where we left him endeavouring to form a colony. Pedro Lopez chose his quantum of territory in two lots, one near his brother’s, called St. Amaro, and the other denominated Itamaraca, at a very inconvenient distance from the first, situated not far from Pernambuco, which latter capitania, as has been already stated, became the portion of Duarthe Coelho Pereyra. The lands adjacent to the southern Parahiba river were conceded to Pedro de[27] Goes. The country betwixt the great river St. Francisco, which was the southern boundary of Pernambuco, and Bahia, was allotted to Francisco Pereira Coutinho. The next portion of territory, proceeding southward, was denominated the Capitania dos Ilheos, running north and south from the Rio dos Ilheos, (River of Islands,) and granted to Jorge Figueiredo Correa. Cabral’s Porto Seguro was included in the range of coast which formed the capitania of the same name, and was a donation to Pedro Campo Tourinha. Espirito Santo (Holy Spirit) was the appellation given to the next in rotation, and obtained by Vasco Fernandez Coutinho. Rio de Janeiro was not colonized for some time afterwards. This mode of allotment was not calculated to maintain a long duration. The captains possessed despotic jurisdiction over the colonists, many of whom were degradados, or criminals, consequently less adapted to live in harmony, and the whole being at the mercy of the former, complaints were frequent; so that, after a lapse of about seventeen years from its commencement, this system was terminated by a royal revocation of the power of the captains, followed by the appointment of Thomé de Souza, a fidalgo, as governor-general of the Brazil, who arrived at Bahia, the bay of All Saints, in April 1549, with instructions to build a city, which was to be called St. Salvador. The fleet was accompanied by some Jesuits, who thus obtained in the Brazilian regions, those means of improving the condition of the Indians, and of the country in other respects, which has been so honourable to their Trans-Atlantic character, and which presents so pleasing and striking a contrast to their conduct in Europe, filled as that conduct was with “treasons, stratagems, and spoils.” With the mother-country, this colony passed under the dominion of the Spanish crown, in the year 1580, for a period of nearly sixty years. The Dutch possessed themselves of Pernambuco in the year 1630, and ultimately of the whole country from the great river St. Francisco to Maranham, which they retained till the year 1654. The last Philip, just before the Brazil reverted to the Portuguese, conferred the title of Viceroy upon the governor-general at Bahia, who then was the Marquis of Montalvam, and which honour all his successors enjoyed. The seat of the vice-regal government was transferred by Don Joseph I. from Bahia to Rio de Janeiro, in 1773, which expired on the arrival of the royal family in that country, in the year 1808. Don John IV. gave the title of Prince of Brazil to his eldest son, Prince Don Theodosio, which descended to all the hereditary princes of the house of Braganza, till the 17th of December, 1815, when the Prince Regent, (now Don John VI.) raised that country into a kingdom.

The Brazil is of such prodigious extent, that it will be impossible for it to arrive even at a medium state of perfection under the dominion of one government. Its prominent boundaries, now that Monte Video is in the possession of the Portuguese, may be geographically considered the river Amazons and the Atlantic on the north; the river Plate on the south; the ocean on the whole of its prolonged range of eastern coast; and the great rivers Madeira, &c. running north; the Paraguay and Uruguay stretching south to the river Plate, on the west; although the two provinces of Solimoes and Guianna, north of the Amazons, and actually subordinate to the governor of Para, carry its northern boundaries, politically speaking, almost as far as the Oronocos, making its length upwards of forty degrees. Its greatest width is about thirty degrees, from Cape St. Augustin to Point Abuná, upon the margin of the river Madeira.

This vast region, comprising nearly two millions of square miles, is now divided into twenty-two provinces, including the two mentioned above, viz.

The zoology and phytology of this country extend to such an infinity of objects, that they would form a separate history of themselves. They, as well as mineralogy, will be partially treated upon in the topography of each province. In reference to the first subject, it may be here observed, that a very considerable portion of the Brazil is still occupied by Indians, consisting of a vast number of nations, more or less numerous, and generally divided into tribes or hordes, wandering about in a state of nudity, the principal part of their time employed in hunting, gathering honey, and such fruits as nature spontaneously produces. They believe in the immortality of the soul and a Creator of all, whom they commonly denominate Tupan, and, like many other barbarians, their adoration is divided between the good and evil spirit, which latter they call Anhanga. No state of government is found amongst them; each tribe has its elective captain, who directs them only on occasions of assaults and in forming ambuscades against an enemy. Each nation has its peculiar idiom,[29] but there is one exists amongst them denominated the general lingua, which is the Tupinamba. At this day many tribes retain the ancient custom of perforating their faces and using pieces of wood as ornaments. In contracting marriages, the degree of relationship is not respected. Polygamy is admitted amongst particular individuals only, in a very few nations. Divorcements are generally very rare amongst them. They are acquainted with no liberal art, and have a great antipathy to civilization. Thousands of instances have occurred, in which they have preferred fleeing from it back again into the woods, in pursuit of their former rude habits. The governor of one of the comarcas of Minas Geraes related to me an instance of an Indian who, instructed in the Catholic faith, had actually entered upon the functions of a priest, and who, notwithstanding, was afterwards induced, from the natural bent of his mind, to abscond and rejoin his uncivilized tribe. Their inherent indolence is conspicuous, and they have but little consideration in life beyond the acquirement of their daily sustenance. Frequent instances occur of their assassinating some of the Portuguese, for whom they lie in ambush. The Portuguese almost universally provide themselves with fire-arms, on traversing the districts inhabited by the Indians, at which they are greatly terrified. Such as live upon the banks of auriferous rivers or lands, and come in contact with the Portuguese, will give pieces of gold for trifling articles of European manufacture, particularly knives, the metal of which they consider of such value, that, in sharpening them, they do not use a whetstone, but a piece of wood, in order that the blade may experience as little diminution as possible by the operation. Few Indians are seen in any of the seaport-towns of the Brazil. Some are employed in the bay of Rio de Janeiro, rowing boats in the service of the government. They appear to keep themselves quite distinct, and do not mix with any other class of people. They are not tall, but their early occupation of hunting has given to their limbs much strength and agility. A fine proportion of form is their general characteristic, and they possess great muscular powers. Their features are regular, and there is an universal resemblance between them and the various tribes. They are of a copper-colour, with strong, lank, black hair, which is permitted to hang over their ears, necks, and foreheads, adding something to the sombre aspect of their countenances, which are sad even to an extreme. If they were capable of learning from history, and appreciating with feelings of patriotism the force of such an event, it might naturally appear to be a dejection originating in the corroding idea of the conquest of their country by strangers; but this apparent characteristic melancholy[30] can only be the result of, and founded upon, their former habits of life and precarious mode of subsistence; which having once contracted, and possessing an innate aversion to civilized intercourse, may never totally disappear. There is nothing ferocious in their physiognomy; on the contrary, they seem very inoffensive. I never saw them indulge in any gaiety, rarely laughing, and speaking seldom. They are expert rowers, and on a transient cessation from their labour, exhibit no disposition to hold converse with each other, nor curiosity or interest in the objects and bustle around them. The Jesuits were undoubtedly the best class of ecclesiastics who have hitherto visited the Brazil, not only, as has been observed, in initiating the Indians into Christianity, but in the general pursuit and encouragement of literature. The missions, for which they were so celebrated, will come under consideration in treating of the provinces where they instituted them; also the establishments of Christianized Indians, as well as the numerous savage tribes existing at the present day.

As the colonization of the capitania of Rio de Janeiro did not occur till after the Brazil was placed under the jurisdiction of a governor-general, and no allusion having been made to that event in the course of these preliminary observations, besides having long assumed the highest rank amongst the provinces of the Brazil, it naturally presents itself first in order, as well as the circumstances arising out of a residence in its capital, for our consideration.

Joam de Solis, who has been already mentioned, entered the bay of Rio de Janeiro, in the year 1515, on his second voyage to South America; and about four years afterwards Fernando de Magellan, and Ruy Falleiro, a famous Portuguese mathematician who accompanied him, also remained a short time in it, bestowing upon it the name of St. Luzia. Martini Alfonso de Souza, who was engaged in an exploration of the whole coast, went into the bay on the 1st of January, 1532, and very improperly gave it the name, which it yet retains, of Rio de Janeiro, (River of January,) evincing, what would not be supposed to be possible, that he considered it a river. No attempts were made, however, to form any settlements here till the year 1555, when M. Villegagnon, a Frenchman, who had rescued Queen Mary from Scotland, with his comrades, took possession of the second island, after passing the entrance into the bay. His avowed object was that of propagating Calvinism in the new world. On this island, which took[32] and still retains his name, he constructed the fort of Coligni, in honour of the excellent man and famous admiral, Gaspar de Coligni, his patron and warm supporter in establishing this colony, to which, in the following year, he despatched a further succour of three ships of war and near three hundred persons. King John III. of Portugal, receiving intelligence of this event, ordered Duarthe da Costa, then governor-general at Bahia, individually, to make himself acquainted with the actual state of the Protestants; but no attempts were made to displace them till after the death of the King, when Dona Catharina gave instructions to Mendo de Sa, the successor of Duarthe da Costa, to expel them, sending him two armed ships, with some caravels, which the governor augmented by some ships of war and two caravels that were in the port, and putting on board all the people he could assemble, personally embarked with the squadron. He visited all the intervening capitanias of the coast, and received on board all those who were willing to accompany him. The French defended themselves vigorously against the attacks of this fleet; but not being able to remedy the destruction and havoc which they sustained from the more powerful ships of the Portuguese, they retired by night to the continent, uniting themselves with the Tamoyo Indians, whose friendship they had previously conciliated. Mendo de Sa collected the artillery which the French had left, and, with one of their ships, which he found in the port, he returned to Bahia.

Intelligence was received afresh that the Protestants continued to frequent the bay of Rio de Janeiro, and were successively becoming more strongly fortified in the continental situations they had taken up. The crown of Portugal, now discovering of how much importance it would be effectually to take possession of and colonize this fine port, which having no donatory or forces to impede the establishment of whatever enemy might think proper to proceed there for that purpose, resolved to despatch Estacio de Sa to Bahia, with two galliots, and there to receive from his uncle, Mendo de Sa, the governor, such an accession of force as would enable him to extirpate the French. Estacio de Sa, having augmented the squadron as much as circumstances would allow, arrived at Rio de Janeiro in 1565, and took up a station near the Sugar-Loaf Mountain, at the place now called Villa Velha; but in various attacks, which he made upon the united French and Indians, fortune was never decisively propitious to him. This circumstance induced Mendo de Sa to prepare, in the bay of Bahia, an armament, which consisted of three galliots, commanded by Christovam de Barros, two ships of the crown, which were cruizing on the coast, and six caravels. This auxiliary force he accompanied in person to the[33] assistance of his nephew, visiting, as before, the intervening capitanias, and offering to convey, gratuitously, all families who might wish to people the future colony; and, in consequence, a great many did accompany him. He arrived on the 18th of January, 1567, but deferred the attack till the 20th, that day being St. Sebastian’s, under whose auspices he meant to begin and carry on the enterprise. Two years had previously passed in useless and indecisive contention, which, in two days, Mendo de Sa brought to a successful termination, by possessing himself of the forts Urussumiri and Paranapucuy, not, however, without his followers feeling the effect of the arrows of the Tamoyos, which often transfixed the shield to the arm that supported it. Amongst others, Estacio de Sa received a wound from one of them, of which he expired a few days afterwards. The French escaped in four ships which they had in the harbour; and Mendo de Sa did not allow much time to elapse before he removed the first establishment to the situation now forming a ward or district of the present capital, denominated Misericordia, and there marked out its commencement. In honour of his patron saint, he gave it the name of St. Sebastian, which has given way to that of Rio de Janeiro now more generally used. The governor assigned to the celebrated Jesuit, Nobrega, ground, in the midst of the city, for a college, which he endowed for the support of fifty brethren. Having occupied himself near a year and a half in arranging every thing necessary for the continuation and security of the new city, he returned to the capital in June, 1568. He left for governor his nephew, Salvador Corrêa de Sa, whose administration was short, as well as that of Christovam de Barros, who succeeded him by royal patent, and whose jurisdiction over the affairs of the capitania terminated in 1572, when King Sebastian divided the state into two governments; the city of St. Sebastian becoming the capital of the southern division, which was delivered to Dr. Antonio Salema, with power over the capitanias from the river Belmont, southward. The same sovereign, becoming sensible of the inconvenience resulting to the crown from this partition, ordered that the general executive government should revert to its anterior state; and nominated, as successor to Salema, the said Salvador Corrêa de Sa, with patent of captain-general, dated the 10th January, 1576, and who remained in this situation until the year 1598. None of those who followed him governed during so long a period, with the exception of Sandozo Gomes Freyre d’Andrade, who discharged the duties of the appointment from the year 1733 to 1763, and which expired only with his life in the course of the latter year.

This province, which acquires its name from the magnificent port of its[34] capital, now comprehends the ci-devant capitania of St. Thomé, half of that of St. Vincente, and a portion of Espirito Santo. It is bounded on the north by the latter, from which it is separated by the river Cabapuâna, and by the province of Minas Geraes, from which it is divided by the rivers Preto and Parahiba, and in part by the serra of Mantiqueira; on the south by the Atlantic Ocean, which also washes its eastern limits; and on the west by the province of St. Paulo. It is estimated to be sixty leagues in length, from east to west, near its northern extremity; and twenty-three leagues of medium width, reckoning from the fortress of St. Cruz, at the entrance of the bay of Rio de Janeiro, to the river Parahibuna, and to have fifty leagues of southern coast, from Cape Frio to Cape Trinidade, which is near three leagues to the west of Point Joatinga. It is divided by the Organ Mountains into two parts; Northern, or Serra-Acima, (Mountains above,) and Southern, or Beira-Mar, (Sea-coast,) which latter is subdivided into four, and the former into two districts or territories, as follows:—

A line drawn from south to north, commencing at the fort of Lage, at the entrance of the port of Rio, passing up the middle of the bay, by the river Inhumirim upwards, and on to the origin of the Piabanha, descending by it to the Parahiba, divides the province into east and west.

Mountains.—All the districts of this province, with the exception of Goytacazes, are picturesquely mountainous, and present an infinite variety of novel, sublime, and wondrous scenery, of which no verbal description can give an adequate representation. The Organ Mountains, so called from the similarity which their pyramidical heads, in various parts, bear to the front of an organ, are the principal. That portion of them which assimilates more distinctly to the object from which the whole range derives the name is an approximation of precipitous pointed masses, separated by profound winding and narrow valleys, through which romantic openings the way leads from Beira-Mar to the district of Canto-Gallo, without having to ascend any comparatively high elevations in traversing them. This is, indeed, the region of solemn and poetic sequestration. Its unchanged and primeval condition would appear to afford a suitable retirement for such as have acquired a calamity-induced distortion of the mind,—a misanthropical distaste to society and the world.

The Macacu, otherwise Serra-Grande, (Great Mountain,) the mountains of St. Anne, of Sambe, of Tapacora, and of Urussanga, are situated in that extremity betwixt the districts of Rio de Janeiro and Cape Frio; the Mount of St. Joam, a league above the emboucheur of the river of the same name, the Serra Jarixina, about twenty miles north-west of the capital, and that of Bocaina, in the district of Parahiba-Nova, constitute, together with the Organ Mountains, those of the greatest altitude in the province.

Rivers.—It cannot boast of any very large or magnificent rivers, although it is irrigated by innumerable streams descending from the mountains. The river Parahiba is the only considerable one, originating in a small lake, situated upon a southern portion of the Serra Bocaina, a continuation of the Organ range, and about five leagues to the north of Paraty. It runs at first under the name of Paratinga, parallel with the mountains prolonged in piles from the south-west, in a line with the coast; enters the province of St. Paulo, where it receives the small river Jacuhy, by the left bank, a little above the town of St. Luiz, and somewhat below it, by the same margin, the river Parahibuna, which rises in the serra of Ubatuba. At this confluence it takes the name of Parahiba, approximates the sea a little to the west of the meridian of the capital, then turns towards the north-north-east, flowing along the base of Serra Itapeva, and by the town of Jacarehy. After a course of twenty leagues, with little variation, it inclines to the east and east-south-east, watering the towns of Thaubate, Pindamonhangaba, Guaratingueta, and Lorena; again turns towards the province in which it has its source, approaching it within five leagues; bathes the town of Rezende; inclines to the north-east, gathering the river Pirahy, (which comes in a northern course from its origin in the serra of Ilha Grande,) and many leagues lower, having taken an easterly direction, it receives the Parahibuna which is its largest confluent, by the left margin, and the afore-mentioned Piabanha, by the right. This part is designated Tres Rios, (Three Rivers.) Ten leagues below, the Pomba enters it by the northern bank, which flows from the western part of the Serra Frecheira principally in a south-east course, through a stony bed, rendering the navigation difficult even to canoes. A little lower it receives the Bengálas, which brings with it various other streams. Soon after this junction, it descends the precipitous fall of St. Fideles, to which point barks ascend. Eight leagues lower down, the Muriahe empties itself into it by the northern margin. Six leagues may be computed from this confluence to the emboucheur of the river Parahiba, and from thence to the fall of St. Fideles, which is the first advancing up the river, seventy-two islands[36] are numbered; and above this fall they are still more numerous. Its waters are precipitated by a great many falls, which run principally through a stony bed, and are discharged into the Atlantic, on the eastern coast of the province. This river does not bring with it to the ocean so large a volume of water as might be imagined from its vast extent, which may be accounted for by its running principally betwixt two cordilleras, (the Organ Mountains and the Mantiqueira with their branches,) the greatest interval of which does not exceed twenty leagues, and almost all its tributary streams are poor and inconsiderable. Eight leagues below Lorêna, where it has already assumed the appearance of a large river, its course is contracted by a long wall of rock, of more than sixty feet high and six hundred yards in extent, reducing its channel to the width of about ten yards. It abounds in a great variety of fish. The adjacent territory, on both banks, from its source to its mouth, is considered to be well adapted for the growth of the sugar cane, and the very small part of it which is cultivated, is appropriated to that purpose; but the far greatest proportion yet remains in a state of wild nature, and although perhaps granted to different donatories, its impenetrable woods form the native retreat of the Indian and the ounce, each still asserting the claim of possession. The river Maccahe, which has a course of fifteen leagues, affording ten leagues of navigation to a fall, rises in the Organ range, and winds amongst mountains and woods, till it encounters the St. Pedro, formed by various small streams in the vicinity of Serra Frade. Three leagues may be computed from this confluence to its emboucheur, which is in front of the islands of St. Anna, thirty miles north of Cape Frio, dividing that district from Goytacazes. The river St. Joam rises in the skirts of the rock of Canudos, with the name of Aguas Claras, (Clear Waters,) more considerable, and affording navigation for a greater space than the Maccahe, runs like it amongst woods and mountains, and disembogues about seven leagues to the south-west of it, bathing the southern skirts of the mountain of its name. Large quantities of timber are exported by it. The rivers Curubichas and Bannanal join it by the left bank, the Bacaxa, which issues from the Serra St. Anna with the appellation of Rio do Oiro, (the Gold River,) unites it on the right by two mouths, having formed, a little higher, a large lake, into which the Capivari, coming from the same serra, empties itself. Below this confluence, little more than three leagues, the Ipuca disembogues, rises near the Maccahe, and forms a considerable island. After it the Lontra, and ultimately the Doirado, near which there is a remarkable production, called the jiquitiba tree, its trunk being fifty-six spans in circumference. All three[37] are navigable, and incorporate themselves with the river St. Joam, by its northern margin.

The river Guandu takes its name at the confluence of the St. Anna with the das Lages, the courses of which are in an opposite direction to this point; the first issues from the Organ Mountains, near the heads of the river Piabanha, and runs south-west till it encounters the other, which flows north-east from its origin in the frontier serra of Ilha Grande. The Guandu passes the royal palace (ex-Jesuitical) of St. Cruz, and discharges itself by two mouths into the bay of Marambaya. The early possessors of this part of the country, in order to evitate the damage which they sustained by the inundations of this river, submerging the extensive and fine campinhas (plains) of the southern part, opened a trench of two miles long from it to the small river Taguahy, which runs in a parallel direction, and by this mode discharged the excess of water which the banks of the Guandu could not contain at the period of the floods. The western mouth, or that of Taguahy, is little more than a league distant from the proper one of the Guandu: barks navigate both. The river Mambucâba, which is a fine river, even beyond the point where the tide reaches, issues from the serra of Bocaina, and disembogues in front of the bar of Cayrussu.

Lakes.—Lakes are numerous in this province. The principal are situated in the districts of Cape Frio and Goytacazes; many of them are surrounded by marshy lands, and none possess, in any point of view, the attractions peculiar to such diffusions of inland water in Europe. The lake of Jacaré-pagua, or Jaracapauha, is narrow and about four leagues long, parallel with and very near to the beach. It abounds with fish, receives some small streams, and has an outlet to the sea at its eastern extremity. It is situated at the eastern base of the picturesque and lofty mountain of the Gavea, about two leagues to the west of the Sugar-Loaf. At its opposite base is the beautiful and highly pleasing cascades of Tejuca.

The lake of Roderigo de Freytas is of a circular form, and half a league in diameter; is about two miles distant from the bay of Bota-fogo, and five from the capital. In its vicinity is the mother-church of the parish of St. Joam Baptista; also the royal manufactory of gunpowder, and a botanical garden of trees and exotic plants. The tea plant is here cultivated, and, unquestionably, would prosper in this climate with proper attention; but this establishment, upon the whole, is miserably neglected. The lake of Marica, which is a league and a half in length, from north-east to south-east, and little less in[38] width, communicates with that of Cururupina, nearly of equal length from east to west, and about the same width from north to south. They both approach very much to a triangular form. The channel which unites them is called the river Bambuhy, and forms a small lake in the centre. The Cururupina is the eastern one, and its extremity is near Negra Point, which is at an equal distance betwixt Cape Frio and the Sugar-Loaf Mountain. The rivulet of Bananal, and that from which it takes its name, are the largest streams that enter it. The Marica, under which name the small one is also comprehended, receives at its southern end the Baccahi, which half a league above its mouth traverses the lake Braba, about a mile long. The small river Itapitiu enters its northern extremity. It is prolonged in a parallel line; and at a short distance from the sea, to which it opens a passage in the winter or rainy season, possesses a great abundance of excellent fish, and, in consequence, furnishes a branch of the dizimos (a tax of one-tenth) of the province. The lake of Piratininga, three-quarters of a league from east to west, and proportionably wide, is about a mile distant from the Sacco, or Gulph of St. Joam de Carahi; it is also abundant in fish, and is separated from the sea by a sand-bank, through which a passage is opened in the rainy season, to prevent its inundating the adjacent country. Near half a league to the east of Piratininga is situated the lake Itaypu, a mile and a half long, and of proportionable width; and betwixt it and the sea is the parish of the same name, the church of which is dedicated to St. Sebastian. Its inhabitants are fishermen and cultivators of mandioca and sugar.

Bays.—This province can boast of two as fine ports as any in the world, the bays of Rio de Janeiro and of Angra dos Reys (King’s bay, or creek.) The first is upwards of twenty leagues from Cape Frio, and, of all others in South America, merits most properly the denomination of a bay; its narrow entrance, embosomed in lofty scenery of the beautiful and sublime, being about eight hundred and fifty fathoms in width, and fourteen in depth, while the bay itself, which is six leagues in length, almost north and south, four at its greatest width, and thirty-two in circumference, is beautified with a great number of islands, and has depth for the reception of the largest fleets. It may be said to be divided into two emboucheurs, as the island of Lage, occupied by a fort of the same name, is situated about the centre. The entrance of the bay is commanded by the additional fort of St. Cruz, on the east, and the batteries of St. Joze and St. Theodozio, on the western side, near an immense naked rock, already mentioned, which is ninety-seven fathoms in perpendicular altitude, and[39] is in the form of a sugar-loaf, and so denominated. The fort of St. Cruz is situated at the base of a high rugged mountain, called Pico, in consequence of its having a pointed termination. From hence signals are made to the city, announcing all vessels as they appear upon the horizon. The two principal bays that branch from it are, Bota-fogo, behind the batteries of St. Jose and St. Theodozio, and the larger one of Jurufuba, to the north of Fort St. Cruz. Upon the beach of the latter is situated the parish of St. Joam de Carahi. The first discovery of this bay and the origin of its improper name have been already alluded to; its more appropriate and primitive name was Nitherohy. Lery, who was there with Villegagnon, says, that the Indians then called it Ganabara; but the first is the most suitable, “nithero” signifying concealed, or hidden, and “hy” water, as it is only on arriving in front of the inlet that the bay is discovered, being previously concealed by mountains. This bay is the receptacle of a vast number of rivers, principally inconsiderable; but, as they are the medium of an easy conveyance to the capital of the productions in their vicinity, it may not be unimportant to describe those of the most consequence. Two leagues and a half, in a direct line, or four by the road towards Campinha, is the mouth of the river Iraja, which issues from one of the small lakes, and affords navigation with the tide to its port of the same name. A quarter of a league to the north of the preceding, the Miriti enters the bay, increased by the junction of the Inhamuahi, (which issues from the Serra Bangu,) and the Pavuna, about two leagues and a half distant from its mouth. It traverses a country in a great measure marshy, and is only navigable for the space of three miles, in a direct line to the port which takes its name, where cases of sugar, and the produce of St. Joam and Our Lady of Apezentacâo, are put on board the bay boats. About a league to the north of it is the Sarapuhi, which originates in the Serra Cachoeira. Its banks are serpentine, and it is only navigable for about a league. The dwellers in the parishes of St. Antonio and Jacutinga export their productions by it. The Iguassu, a mile further to the north-east, has its source in the Serra Tinguá; is navigable for four leagues; brings with it to the bay the waters of the Iguare, which issues from one of the lakes, and affords navigation for a mile to the port bearing its name. Also the Maraby, flowing from the Serra Boa-Vista, and navigable to the port of Couto, three leagues above its mouth. It also receives the Dos Ramos, navigable for a space of eight miles, to the skirts of the Serra Mantiqueira, in which it originates. The river Inhumirim enters the bay about half a league further, and is navigable for three leagues: one of its confluents, the Jaguamirim, flows from the morasses, and affords[40] navigation for six miles; another, the Saracuruna, descends from the serra of its name, and is navigable only for a league; also the Figueyra, which comes from Serra Frade. Boats go up very near to its origin, where it has the name of Cayoába. By the Inhumirim, (the source of which is little distant from the Piabanha,) the miners, amounting to no great number, comparatively, descend by boats to the capital, and return in the same way, with manufactured articles, up its channel to the port of Estrella, where they leave the mules to recruit for the return journey; but the major part of these people, as well as others, proceed the whole way with the mules. The port of Estrella is a flourishing place, (being on the main way to the mines,) with some little commerce, and has a chapel of Our Lady, situated in the angle of the confluence of the aforesaid Saracuruna, four miles from the bay.

From the Inhumirim there is a channel to the river Pilar, the last confluent of the Iguassu. Little more than two leagues to the east-north-east of the Inhumirim, and in front of the small island of Guayanna, the Suruhy, issuing from the Organ Mountains, discharges itself into the bay, and, like the others, admits of the navigation of boats up its channel for about seven miles. It receives the Goya, which comes from one of the morasses. All the productions of the adjacent country are excellent; and there is, perhaps, no soil better adapted for banana groves, which are cultivated here with great care. Half a league further is the mouth of the Iriry, which originates in marshy ground, and is only navigable for two miles.

About two miles to the east of the Iriry, is the emboucheur of the Magéassú, which descends from the Organ Mountains, bathes the town of the same name, and affords navigation for ten miles. The Guapimirim, is about two miles from the Magé. Its course is about six leagues, and originates in the same mountains.

About two miles from hence is the principal of two mouths by which the Macacu enters the bay. It is one of its largest streams, and is navigable for fifteen leagues. Alligators of a very large size inhabit its banks, and take shelter amongst the high reeds which grow in the water. Its source is in the Organ Mountains, near the rock called Canudos, and it is united on its right margin by the rivers Guapiassu, Cabucu, and Varge; on its left by the Cacerebu and the Aldeia. The Guapiassu, which is the most considerable, comes from the same mountains as the Macacu; and, a little before its incorporation with that river, communicates with it by a channel called Rio dos Morros (River of Rocks.) There is a quarry of pedra sabāo, a peculiar stone, near its heads,[41] which is excavated in large pieces, and sawn for the purpose of forming the mouths of furnaces in engenhos, or sugar-works, being considered of eternal duration. The principal confluent of this tributary river is Piracinunga, the main branch of which originates between the high points of the Organ Mountains. Betwixt the rivers Macacu and Guapiassu there is a certain portion of territory, comprising about two leagues, the most fertile in the district, which was bequeathed, in 1718, by André da Costa, as a legacy to some poor persons, with inalienable succession, and an annual pension of two missas, (masses,) for each house. This colony has now arrived at the number of twelve hundred individuals, and this bequest would maintain ten times as many, with adequate industry. The Guaxindiba flows from the Serra Taypu, and, describing numerous windings and turnings, enters the bay about two miles from the Macacu. The Emboassu, disemboguing four miles further, has its source in the Serra St. Gonçalo, and is navigable with the tide for a short distance.

The islands with which this bay is ornamented are numerous, but of inconsiderable extent. The principal is the isle of Governador, which is little more than two leagues long, from east to west, and proportionably wide. It is of an irregular form, having many headlands, and small creeks, and forms the parish of Our Lady of Ajuda. The parishioners are generally agriculturists and labourers. It is situated almost in the middle of the bay. The isle of Bom Jesus, but better known by the name of Frades, is about two miles long, from east to west, and of trifling width. It is the site of a convent of lazy Franciscans, which has a handsome and commanding appearance. The King visits the island occasionally, on the celebration of some particular religious festivity. He spent two or three days with the friars in the summer of 1819. It is not far distant from his palace of St. Christovao. The island of Paqueta possesses more natural charms than any other in the bay, and is situated near its northern extremity. It is about three miles long, from north to south, and of inconsiderable width. Its whole extent constitutes the parish of Bom Jesus do Monte (Good Jesus of the Mount.) A considerable quantity of the timber and branches of the mango tree is exported to the capital for firewood.

Angra dos Reys, the other bay alluded to, is much larger than that of Rio, presenting less regularity, with three entrances open to the south, formed by two islands, Ilha Grande and Marambaya, lying in a parallel line with the coast. The western entrance, denominated Cayrussu, is situated betwixt Ilha Grande and Joatinga Point, on the continent. Bom-Abrigo (Good Shelter) was the name given by the first discoverers to this point. The entrance is eight miles wide,[42] possessing thirty fathoms of depth. The central entrance is betwixt the said island and that of Marambaya, from which latter it derives its name. It is five miles wide, with little less depth than the first. The eastern entrance, denominated the Bar of Guaratiba, is narrow and of little depth. The rivers Guandu and Mambucaba are the principal amongst a great many whose courses terminate in this bay, which can boast of some excellent roadsteads. Ilha Grande is four leagues long, with a proportionable width, having many high mountains covered with wild and verdant woods, and numerous fountains of crystalline water, which produce two abundant streams. This bay has various recesses, which are so many secure anchorage places; the creeks of Abraham, Estrella, and Palmas are the best. This island, which lends its name to the frontier territory of the continent, has a fertile soil, and is partially cultivated. In the year 1811, its population amounted to three thousand souls, at which period the parish called St. Anna was created: a central chapel, of the same name, serves it for a mother-church. In the creek of Abraham there is a village, which, most probably, at a future day, will become the capital of the island. The island of Marambaya is high and rocky, and overspread with wood. The whole of its cultivation and population arises alone from the establishment of two sugar works upon it; and it possesses a hermitage of Our Lady of Griefs (das Dores.) From this island, a narrow sand-bank stretches to the east for six leagues, as far as the bar of Guaratiba, and is covered in the greatest part with vegetation.

Over the bay of Angra dos Reys, a vast number of islands are scattered, amongst which may be enumerated the Supituba, Cunhambyba Grande, Jorge, Palmeira, Algodao, Barra, Caeyra, Redonda, Rafael, Cavaco, Pimenta, and another, also called Jorge, which are each from about a mile to two miles in length. The Gipoya, about six miles long, has some indigo works and fisheries; the Bomfim, very small, has a hermitage of the same name; the Tacoativa, Jacarahy, Paixao, Francisco Nunes, Barro, Pedreiro, Bayacica, Cana, Porcos, Sappe, Boqueirao, Redonda, Buzios, Casca, Brandao, Coco, Algodao, Ferreira, Cavaco, Jappam, Papagayos, Cobras, Sandre, and St. Joam are all small. The majority of these islands are partly cultivated and peopled.

Capes.—Cape Frio is the only remarkable cape of the province. That of St. Thomé is situated about twenty leagues north-north-east from it. The principal projecting points are Negra Point, nine leagues to the west of Cape Frio; Buzios Point, four leagues to the north-north-east of the same cape; and Guaratiba Point, near the bar of its name. The mother-church of the parish of St. Salvador is beautifully situated upon a small eminence in front of the bar of Guaratiba. Its[43] district is twenty miles long, and fifteen wide. In the year 1804, it contained four thousand three hundred and forty inhabitants, dispersed over the parish, the vicar’s house being almost the only one in the vicinity of the church.

Islands.—The islands of this province are numerous, but the greater part inconsiderable, and principally within the two bays already described. Outside of the bar of Rio de Janeiro are the three islands of Palmas; also the islands of Redonda, Comprida, Raza, Cagada, Lage, Catunduda, Toacinho, Pay, and May; the whole of which are small, uninhabited, and extremely barren, except in verdant shrubs and brushwood.

Mineralogy.—This province has some mines of gold, and possesses veins of iron. The rocks of granite are very large and remarkable, being of one solid piece, from whence entire obelisks might be hewn of an immense size. Aqua-marinas are met with; and a variety of different earths, some considered equal to that with which the Chinese manufacture their porcelain.

Zoology.—In this province are found all the domestic and wild animals belonging to the adjacent provinces, with a sort of Sahium monkey, hairy, and of a gold colour. Amongst the birds are remarked various sorts of the beautiful sahy, not met with northward.

Phytology.—This province affords a variety of timber for the purposes of building, cabinet-work, and dying. The tree called here anduassu is nearly fifteen feet high, and two in diameter, grows rapidly, and only in the vicinity of the sea. The Indians make an aperient medicine from its fruit, with which they cure the dropsy. Oil is extracted from it for burning lights, and for the composition of blue ink, and a blue dye. The tatagyba, which is the morus tinctoria of Linneus, affords an excellent yellow dye, extracted by the boiling of its wood in water, with the addition of a portion of alum. The grumixameira is a tree which produces a most excellent fruit, similar to a cherry in appearance, but of a finer flavour. I brought some of its seed to England, but am yet uncertain whether it will prosper in our climate. A small tree produces a clove, said to be superior to that of the Moluccas. The camphor tree, the cane of Madagascar, some African grasses, and a delicate species from Hindostan, have been recently naturalized here. Canes of such thickness and height grow upon the margins of the Suruhy, that ladders are made of them to hang the highest temples with decorations for festivals. In many situations ferns are met with, not differing in the least from those of Europe, except in the immense quantities which grow in uncultivated grounds. In the woods adjacent to Andrahi, near the road leading to the cascades of Tejuco, there is one which has grown, amongst other vegetation of wild trees[44] and brushwood, to the perpendicular height of eighteen feet. In some woods, a sort of almond tree is met with, with fruit almost spherical, and of the magnitude of a hen’s egg. Cocoa trees are not very abundant, owing to an insect which gnaws the sprout after it grows to any size, and prevents their arrival at the perfection they otherwise would. European horticulture succeeds better here than in the northern provinces. The mango tree is only abundant in the suburbs of the capital, and rarely fructifies to perfection. Oranges grow spontaneously, and consist of various sorts; the selectas, which are large, and the tangerinas, both of the most delicious qualities. The coffee tree, having been naturalized here, during the government of Conde de Bobadella, by the attention and care of a magistrate, multiplies prodigiously, and is now one great branch of the riches of this province. The cotton tree does not prosper universally. Apple, pear, cherry, and apricot trees do not succeed. Fig trees grow rapidly, and produce fruit in perfection; but they have an enemy in a little insect, which introduces itself very frequently into the pith, and dries it up. Amongst an infinity of other productions may be enumerated jalap, ipecacuanha, called here poaya, trees of gum, of sangue de drago, (blood of dragon,) of oil of capaiba, and of Peruvian balsam. The cultivation of cochineal is now little attended to.

Cities and Towns.—The cities and towns in this province are remarkable for their small number and general insignificance, considering its extent and capabilities. The same observation is applicable to all the other provinces, and to some infinitely more so. In this province may be reckoned two cities and twelve towns, having no good roads or regular communication with each other by land, but mere tracks and bridle-ways constituting an intricate and difficult medium of intercourse. But we hail, with no common satisfaction, the improvements that will necessarily succeed to the change that has taken place in the system of government in the mother-country, and which has already begun to operate a like change in the provinces of Brazil.

The deplorable want of roads, and all the other facilities of husbandry, commerce, and enjoyment, is the natural consequence of the state of penury and ignorance in which the inhabitants, generally, of this region are involved, by a system that cannot too soon give way to the more enlightened policy which appears to be dawning upon them. This good work, as far as it has proceeded, redounds highly to the honour of the Portuguese people; no sanguinary event having marked their endeavours in the cause of freedom, thereby affording a most satisfactory contrast to the bloody pages that blacken the revolution of many other nations. May they soon regain their former dignity of character.

The district of Ilha Grande is mountainous, wholesome, and fertile. It is bounded on the west by the province of St. Paulo; on the north, by the continuation of the Organ Mountains, which separate it from the district of Parahiba Nova; on the east, by the River Taguahi, the limits of the district of Rio de Janeiro, with the exception of which, none of the others exceed it in the prompt means which it enjoys of exporting its productions, which are farinha, or flour of the mandioca, Indian corn, rice, feijao, (black beans,) coffee, sugar, cacháça, (bad rum,) indigo, some cocoa, and timber. Very few cattle of any kind are bred; but it abounds in poultry.

Parati, with the title of a countship, and famous for its cacháça, (rum,) which is reputed to be the best in the state, was created a town in 1660, and is situated in a level country, on the western side of the bay of Ilha Grande, betwixt the river Patetiba, and that from which it derives its name. Its streets are straight, crossing at right angles, with edifices of stone, and a parochial church of Our Lady of Remedies, the chapels of Lapa, and of Griefs. It has a Juiz de Fora, a judicial officer, and royal professors (as they are called) of the primitive letters and Latin. Its commerce is considerable. It is situated about sixty miles west of the metropolis.

Angra dos Reys is a maritime town, in a state of mediocrity, standing among the frontier mountains of Ilha Grande, which name it frequently takes. It is defended by two redoubts, and has a parish-church of Our Lady of Conceiçao; also[46] the chapels of Lapa, and St. Luzia; a convent of Franciscans, and one of slippered Carmelites. The extensive domains of the former have not ceased to increase. Its inhabitants enjoy a salubrious air; and vessels of the largest size can come to anchor in the port. It has a Juiz de Fora, who is the same person that fills that situation at Parati, from whence it is distant twenty miles, and also has professors of the same kind. Its commerce is pretty considerable; the fig and vine trees prosper in its vicinity, and it is the most ancient town of the province. In the adjacent countries of Mambucaba, rice commonly renders one hundred for one; feijao, twenty; Indian corn, forty and fifty; a fertility that has induced many families to move to this district, which, since the year 1811, has been formed into a parish, with the church of Our Lady of Rozario, situated near the emboucheur of the river, upon its eastern bank. A few leagues to the north, and in the vicinity of the same margin of the river, is the picturesque mountain of Taypicu, having the form of a sugar-loaf; and at a moderate distance from the origin of the Mambucaba is the celebrated pinnacle denominated the Friar, from its similitude to a Franciscan with the cawl upon his head.

The district of Parahiba Nova is confined on the south by that of Ilha Grande; on the west, by the province of St. Paulo; on the north, by that of Minas Geraes, from which it is separated by the serra of Mantiqueira. Its territory is generally mountainous, abounding with woods and water. Its produce is rice, Indian corn, feijao, and tobacco; but coffee and sugar are the principal riches of the district. It is alleged, that the frosts, that are consequent on the high elevation of the country, are an obstacle to the culture of cotton and wheat, which flourish only in few situations. It has been demonstrated, that the soil of this district is well adapted for flax; but, as the cultivation of it does not require less labour than in Europe, the apathy of the inhabitants, in a great measure induced by the causes just now glanced at, is the only obstacle to its general production. The orange, pine-apple, bananas, and some other Brazilian fruits, are not abundant. Cattle and horses are bred in very small numbers; pigs and poultry are plentiful. The river Parahiba traverses this district, to which it gives the name, describing innumerable windings, and collecting a great many streams, amongst which may be noted the Barramansa, Bannanal, and Barreiros. The Pirahi is navigable for seven leagues to the church of St. Anna, erected in 1812.

Rezende, created a town during the government of a count of the same name, is situated in an elevated country, upon the right bank of the river Parahiba, which supplies it with fish, and has a parochial church called Our Lady of Conceiçao. Its primitive name was Campoalegre. Coffee and sugar are its exports, and it is distant about sixteen leagues north of Angra.

St. Joao Marcos, erected into a town in 1813, is upon the right bank of the small river Aráras, a western branch of the Lages, and is seven leagues north of Angra, and nineteen west of the capital. Its church is dedicated to the saint from which it takes its name. Its inhabitants cultivate a prodigious quantity of coffee, which is decidedly esteemed the best in the Brazil; also some sugar. It is a halting place for the bands of mules, and travellers coming from the province of St. Paulo to the metropolis; but, like all other towns and places in the Brazil, possesses no inns for the accommodation of the wayfarer, who, if not used to the modes of the country, must cater as well as he can. Proceeding from hence towards St. Paulo, the mountains are of such height, that passes, or ways, are formed only by considerable windings and intricate ascents.

A little above the passage of the Parahibuna, betwixt the Parahiba and the Preto, is the village of Valença, with a hermitage of Our Lady of Glory, (Gloria,) which serves for the devotion of the inhabitants; consisting of four hordes of Christianized Indians, which are the Puris, who are of a small stature; the Araris, whiter and well made; the Pittas, and Xumettos. Some unconverted natives dwell amongst them. Upon the northern bank of the Parahiba, at the passage towards the Parahibuna, is the parish of Our Lady of Conceiçao, (Conception,) inhabited by white people. It is much frequented.

The district of Rio de Janeiro, situated betwixt those of Cape Frio on the east, and Ilha Grande on the south, extends twenty leagues from east to west, and nearly in its centre is the bay of the same name, which receives all the rivers that fertilize this district, with the exception of the Guandu. Its productions do not materially differ from the others, in the conveyance of which to the capital it, however, enjoys greater facility.

St. Sebastian, better known by the name of Rio de Janeiro, is the most important, populous, and commercial city in the Brazil. It was created a bishopric in the year 1776, and the metropolis of this region, in 1763; from which period, to the arrival of Queen Donna Maria and the royal family, on the 7th of March, 1808, it was governed by seven successive viceroys: these were, the Count da Cunha, the Count d’ Azambuja, the Marquis de Lavrodio, Luiz de Vasconcellas e Souza, the Count de Rezende, Fernando Joze de Portugal, (now the Marquis d’Aguiar,) and Count d’ Arcos, a nobleman highly esteemed by the people under his jurisdiction, which terminated before its natural expiration, in consequence of the events in Portugal that drove the royal family to their Trans-Atlantic possessions. It is affirmed that this fidalgo undeservedly suffered some persecution at this period, in consequence of the intrigues or influence which a certain family, who accompanied the court, had over the Prince Regent, (two[48] of whom have since received titles,) but which influence was counteracted in some measure by the Queen. This fidalgo was afterwards sent as captain-general to Bahia, where he displayed considerable ability at the time the revolution burst forth at Pernambuco, and otherwise advanced the prosperity of the province. The termination of the Pernambucan revolt was attributed to the prompt measures which he adopted. He is now minister of marine in this city. His son received the Hon. Mr. Thornton, our minister at the Brazilian court, on his landing at the Palace-stairs, for whom and his suite three of the royal state carriages were in waiting. It was affirmed, that no minister had ever been received with greater marks of respect. This city is situated in a plain, the major part of which, in former times was washed by the sea, at the base of an accumulation of small hills and mountains of all elevations upon its southern precincts. It extends about two miles in length, from east to west. Its northern side is enclosed by a cordon of five mountains, all oblong, and which leave space only for one street, betwixt their eastern base and the pria (beach.) The central one of these mountains is the highest and most extensive: betwixt some of them, there are streets or roads leading to the margin of the bay. Upon the eastern and lowest elevation is situated the monastery of St. Bento. The adjoining one is crowned with the fort of Conceiçao, and the episcopal palace. On the western one, there is a chapel of St. Diogo, and upon the central one towards the beach, another of Our Lady of Livramento.

In front of the granite rock, upon which St. Bento stands, is the island of Cobras, or Snakes, which is one hundred and sixty-five fathoms long, from east to west, and proportionably wide, not very high, and fortified, having within its precincts a loathsome prison, generally appropriated to the confinement of state prisoners, to which, however, Englishmen have been occasionally sent, for trifling irregularities in regard to passports and other matters of no serious import. There are two trapiches, or warehouses, upon its margin next the channel, which is about one hundred and fifty yards in width. At its northern entrance, merchant vessels lie for the purpose of discharging and taking in their cargoes, which are performed by large barges, at no inconsiderable expense. Almost north-west from the granite rocks of St. Diogo, at a distance of about three quarters of a mile across a point of the bay, and upon a gentle eminence, is situated the hospital of Lazaros, which has a very commanding appearance, and was formerly a house of recreation belonging to the Jesuits, but is now used as a barrack for a regiment of Cassadores, from Portugal, who perform the duty of royal guard at the palace of St. Christovao, about a mile distant from it. Between the rocks of St. Diogo and the lazaretto, a branch of the bay forms a[49] small creek, which separates the Cidade Nova from the village of Matta Porcas. The bridge of St. Diogo, by which they communicate, is constructed of wood. The beach leading from St. Bento to this point, describes several windings and sweeping crescents, formed by projecting headlands, in one of which, upon the side of a gently ascending hill, the English burial-ground presents a conspicuous object. In sailing along the bay, the neat white building that crowns it, the over hanging trees dispersed about, with the already accumulating tombstones, produce a corresponding interest in a feeling mind, on passing the bones of countrymen, resting in a situation so picturesque and sadly tranquil, far removed from their native land. May you rest undisturbed, said I, at the sight, and may those estimable relatives and friends who pay the departed spirits the tribute of affectionate remembrance, journey through life in peace and prosperity.

The houses of Rio de Janeiro are generally built of stone, one story high, with balconies, which formerly were barricadoed with latticed doors and windows, but these were ordered to be removed after the arrival of the royal family. The ground floors, which are not used as shops or stores, still exhibit this miserable and gloomy aspect of closely latticed windows and doors. In the upper part of the latter, wooden latticed windows are introduced, and the whole are most commonly suspended from the top lintel, secured with hinges. The inmates push them outwards, with their hands or heads, for the purpose of obtaining a side view of what is passing in the streets. Numbers of the inhabitants of this city are thus seen resting upon their elbows, the head projecting the lower points of those hanging windows, frequently to the annoyance of persons passing along the very narrow footways.

The streets cross each other at right angles. The Rua Direita, running north and south from the base of the St. Bento Hill to the Palace Square, is the best and widest in the city, and the principal head of others branching off in a westerly direction, which are crossed, at certain distances, by other streets running in a parallel line with the first. Amongst those leading from the Rua Direita, may be enumerated the Rua dos Pescadores, Rua do Sabao, Rua d’Alfandigo, and the Rua d’Ouvidor; which latter is the chief outlet to three or four roads leading from the suburbs of the city, and is, in consequence, tolerably thronged with cabriolets, carriages, mules, and horsemen.

The streets being very narrow, foot passengers experience many inconveniences, and not the least from horsemen, who do not scruple to ride upon the narrow foot-path, which scarcely admits of two people passing, in order to[50] avoid the dirt and holes of the badly paved streets. Another annoyance is the Senhors Picadores, or royal gentlemen mule breakers, the most miserable looking wretches, who assume all the self-will peculiar to their animals, and some of that consequence which the servants of the royal family generally think themselves entitled to. The royal attendants are called, by the Brazilians, the largura, that is, the occupiers of all the road, and make no ceremony in upsetting you, or running against the carriage, gig, or horse, of any plebeian they may encounter. Next come the royal cadets, in such a helter-skelter, that it may justly be compared to the suddenness and fury of one of the gusts of wind we experienced in our passage across the Equator. They are the signal of the approach of some part of the royal family; and, as it is the custom for every one they meet to take off their hats, and persons in carriages and on horseback to dismount, it is not a little amusing to see the general bustle that prevails on the occasion of those ceremonial storms, some flying for fear of being ridden over, others drawing up their carriages and horses to a corner or side, and all bending the knee to the royal party. At these times, it is lucky if a person on horseback, caught in such an encounter in a narrow street, gets off without some personal injury.

It may be necessary to observe, that any of the royal family going out are generally attended by a party of cavalry, mounted on small and poor horses, two of which, who are something superior to a common soldier, called cadets, precede the carriage at full gallop, through the streets or along the roads, the rest of the cavalry immediately following it. They are succeeded by other royal cabriolets, with the fidalgos in waiting, the domestic servants proceeding without any order on horseback; amongst whom, he who carries before him, at full gallop, the royal crimson night-stool, is no inexpert horseman.

Some foreigners have resisted the right which the royal cadets assume of compelling them to dismount, and it will be readily conceded, that such a ceremony cannot but be very repugnant to the feelings of Englishmen, Americans, and others, although they have generally complied with it. The Queen, who has the character of being extremely particular and peremptory on this point, a few years since, taking her usual ride to a small cottage and garden, at the bottom of the Orange Valley, met Lord Strangford, who refused to comply with the accustomed ceremony. The cadets instantly insulted his Lordship, by using their swords in compelling him to dismount. The only redress which his Lordship obtained, was the imprisonment of the guards for a short time. About three years ago, Mr. Sumpter, the American[51] minister, met the Queen in the same neighbourhood. The guard rode up to him, saying, “Apea-se Senr.” He replied, that he was the American minister, and that he should not dismount, on which they did not hesitate to compel him. Mr. Sumpter said that he did not require any satisfaction for this gross insult, but stated with great spirit, that he should provide himself with holsters and pistols, and would shoot the first person who offered him a similar insult. Very shortly afterwards, he met the Queen’s guard again, who rode up to him, making the same peremptory demand as before. In answer to which, he frankly told them, that the first man who offered him any violence, he would shoot dead upon the spot. This resolute conduct induced them to retire. Upon this, it is said, the Queen ordered them to proceed a second time to dismount Mr. Sumpter; but they were intimidated by his continued firmness. It is generally affirmed that her Majesty was highly incensed at Mr. Sumpter’s conduct, and requested the minister of state to issue an order for his imprisonment in the island of Cobras. The minister prevailed upon her Majesty to wait the result of a despatch to the King upon the subject, who was then forty miles off at St. Cruz, and who gave orders immediately, that no foreigner should be compelled to pay more courtesy than his own Sovereign would require from him. Since that time, however, an English merchant, who was driving his lady in a chaise, was beat by the Queen’s guards, till his arm became quite black, and his life endangered, notwithstanding he had stopped his horse, stood up in the chaise, and took off his hat. In the month of July, 1819, Commodore Bowles was taking a ride near the Orange Valley, when the Queen’s cadets beat him off his horse with their swords. The cadets were sent on board the Creole to apologize for their conduct, and the commodore advised them in future to draw their swords only against an enemy. To the King, who does not require this ridiculous and inconvenient homage, the English generally are desirous of showing their respect by dismounting.

On the northern side of the city is situated an almost oblong square, called the Campo of St. Anna. It is more than a quarter of a mile in length, and about half the width. A church of the same name divides it into two parts. The western part is destined for the Cidade Nova, (or New City,) and increasing in buildings, denoting, however, very little regard to architecture or general comfort in the edifices. Of the eight streets which run into the Campo St. Anna, those of St. Pedro and Sabao are intended to continue under the same names the whole extent of the new city, which is to terminate at the wooden-bridge of St. Diogo already mentioned.

This city is divided into seven parishes; that of St. Sebastian, or the royal chapel, dedicated to the use of the royal family, with a curate chosen from the canons, that of Se, at present with a chapel and also a canonical curate, St. Joze, St. Ritta, St. Anna, St. Francisco Xavier, and Our Lady of Candellaria, the parish church of which, yet incomplete, presents a very handsome frontispiece, and is also the only parochial church in the kingdom, where chaplains, at this time fifteen in number, officiate daily, in form of a collegiate church. There is a house of misericordia, with a hospital for the sick, and an establishment for the reception of orphans, the legitimate offspring of white parents, which place they leave on being married, and receive a certain dowry. There are eleven chaplains for the purpose of praying at canonical hours in the choir of the church. There is a convent of Benedictines and another of Franciscans. The ci-devant convent of the slippered Carmelites now forms a part of the palace, and their church is the royal chapel. The bishop is the chaplain-mor. The chapter is composed at present of twenty-eight canons, of whom eight use the vestments and adopt the usages of the monsenhores of the patriarchal at Lisbon; the others received, by law, the title of Senhoria, in December, 1808; they dress in cloaks, and the whole wear red stockings. There is an alms’ house of Terra-Santa, to entertain the travelling brotherhood. The two seminaries of St. Joze and St. Joaquim are ill attended and as ill conducted. In the latter Dr. Gardner, an English gentleman, lectures on chymistry, but he has few pupils. He receives a stipulated salary, and is appointed by the crown. Also a third order (Terceiras) of St. Francisco d’Assis, of Our Lady of Carmo, with a beautiful chapel, and of St. Francisco de Paula, each with its hospital, either complete or begun, for the poor brothers. The Jesuitical college is converted into a royal military hospital, with schools of surgery; and, agreeably to the tenure of the respective statutes upon this subject, five years are required for the formation of competent surgeons. Amongst other chapels to be remarked, is that of St. Peter, of a circular form, with an arched roof, where ten chaplains perform divine service, and none are admitted into orders, unless they can demonstrate that they are of the brotherhood of St. Peter: St. Cruz, which has an elegant frontispiece; there the military hold their religious festivals: Hospicio, with an arched roof and a cupola: and Our Lady of Gloria, situated upon an elevated point or headland, in great part surrounded with the sea, which forms a very handsome and conspicuous object when viewed from the bay. The hill upon which it stands runs along in uneven elevations as far as Pria Flemingo, where it terminates in an abrupt precipice of granite rock. [53]The front of this hill, facing the bay, nearly in a state of wild nature, was some time ago purchased by Mr. Maiden, an English gentleman, upon the side of which he has erected a very excellent mansion for his own residence, as well as three or four other neat houses, all occupied by English gentlemen; one at the extremity, near the granite rock, is in the possession of the Rev. Mr. Crane. The Gloria Hill is decidedly the most agreeable situation for a residence in the vicinity of Rio: it is elevated, and commands an interesting view of the harbour and all vessels as they enter and leave the port; at the same time enjoying all the advantages of the land and sea breezes. Its only inconvenience is the approach to it, by a steep ascent on the side of the Gloria Chapel.

There are two female convents at Rio de Janeiro. The in-dwellers of one adhere rigidly to their system of strict seclusion from all intercourse with the world: they are Therezian nuns, and the convent is agreeably situated upon an eminence, near the double row of arches in which the aqueduct terminates. The others are Franciscan nuns, and an apartment in their convent of Ajuda is appropriated for the admission of their friends, to converse with them through an iron grating. This convent possesses an antiquated organ, coeval with the establishment, and the hand of man had not been allowed, for many a year, to harmonize the discordancy occasioned by the deteriorating lapse of time. An English professor of music was engaged, under considerable penalties to keep the peace, and presented with a carte-blanche to visit the convent, for the purpose of thoroughly renovating this instrument, which, on accomplishing, he declared was as fine a toned organ as he had ever heard. I was permitted to accompany this gentleman, upon one occasion, under the garb of a servant. We approached a door in the corner of a small inner square, which the outer entrance leads to. A respectful knock produced the opening of a small shutter within the door, when the fine face and black eyes of the watchful porteress were presented at the iron grating. After a parley of a few minutes, during which, at intervals, she examined me with rather a scrutinizing eye, the bolts were withdrawn, and, on entering, we found ourselves at the foot of a flight of spacious stairs, which she ascended with us. At the top we were joined by two other nuns, apparently about the age of forty, who conducted us along a passage or avenue; one of them continuing to sound a bell the whole way, with a view of announcing to the sisterhood that man was within the precincts of the building, whose sight they were thus cautioned to avoid. Our three companions were extremely affable, and conversed with much animation. We[54] arrived, after passing through a considerable part of the building, at the apartment where the organ stood, which was also a place of devotion, and ornamented with the figures of various saints. Creolean slaves soon came, to assist in the operations upon the organ, in which I was an equally awkward performer. Those slaves, unnaturally destined also to be here immured for life, were young and some of them very handsome. At intervals many other nuns came to the door and looked in by stealth. Some gradually overcame their shyness, entered the room, offered up their devotions, repeated their “Avi Marias,” and, by degrees, approached the organ, with which our attention appeared to be absorbed. Nature so triumphed over superstitious habits that many of them became very familiar and lively. One of them sung part of an English song, which my companion had translated into Portuguese, he playing upon the organ as an accompaniment; the others appeared quite delighted, and shouted out “Viva, viva.” Upon some of them perseveringly urging me for an air, I gave them a verse of “God save the King,” which, on others coming into the room, I was obliged to repeat. The governesses joined in these occasional bursts of vivacity, and at other times took their stations in different parts of the room, apparently in the posture of devotion, and so situated that they could observe all that was passing. Upon all occasions of their coming in or leaving the room they bent the knee to the figure of Jesus. One of them directed my attention to the beautiful quality of the silk which constituted the vestments on the figure of St. John, and observed, several times, that he appeared muito triste (very sad) that morning. I did not think proper to dissent from this romantic discovery; but I was a little astonished to find that she carried her superstition so far as to imagine that an inanimate figure could actually change its aspect, and, consequently, that it was endowed with vital feeling and thought. She next showed me a menino Jesu, (child Jesus,) richly dressed, with a silken band around the waist, from which was suspended an embroidered bag, containing, she said, a piece of the real bone of our Saviour. I ventured here not wholly to conceal my doubts; but she assured me it was so, and that the Queen, whose remains were deposited in the garden of the convent, brought it from Lisbon, and presented it to them: this was conclusive. No doubt they regarded us as pitiable heretics, one of them taking great pains to teach me Padre Nosso, Avi Maria, Santa Maria, all which I was instructed to write in my book, and then compelled to repeat several times to the rest, who seemed very much pleased at my promising symptoms of Catholicism. A very fine girl, about ten years of age, had just entered the convent. I expressed my surprise [55]and regret, to one of the governesses, that so young a child should be shut up here for life; she replied, that it was infinitely better than being exposed to the wickedness of the world. They are involved in great ignorance, but apparently not only comfortable, but happy, and great cleanliness pervaded that part of the convent that we saw. We returned by the same avenues; and the bell, which had been intrusted to my novel management, sending forth rather unusual sounds, induced some of the more secluded sisterhood to peep, with some surprise, out of their cells; and, as I was found not to be intuitively a bellman to their wishes, I was as quickly deprived of my new situation.

An aqueduct, for furnishing water to the Cidade Nova, is nearly completed; in which quarter some new fountains are to be observed, especially the Lagarto, and another in the Campo St. Anna, large, built of stone, and discharging the water by numerous spouts.

The fountains in the eastern district of the city consist of one in the Palace Square, in the shape of a tower, the Marrecas; one in the Moura Place; and the Carioca, with twelve spouts; all of which are supplied by the aqueduct already mentioned.

A visit to its source I found to be a most interesting excursion. I was accompanied to it by two friends. We directed our course to the village of Matta Cavallos, passing underneath the double arcade, the superior one having forty-two arches, and which conducts the water from the Therezian hill across a valley close to the city. We called upon Mr. Langsdorffe, the Russian consul, and proceeded from his house up a gradual ascent, covered with almost impervious woods, and, after crossing a deep glen, gained the terrace, which is formed by excavation along the sides of mountains and precipices for nearly four miles. As far as two white pillars, opening into the Orange Valley, a distance of about three miles, the terrace has been recently repaired, and forms of itself a very fine promenade. Upon its inner side the range of aqueduct is erected, which is nearly eight feet high, consisting of two walls, a yard from each other, which space is arched over, and encloses the small stream of water that flows rapidly along a channel hewn out of stone. As far as the pillars it has been recently enlivened by white-washing, and at certain distances small apertures are left, for the purpose of ventilation. In some places, small iron gates are introduced into the wall, to admit of the occasional entrance of persons within it; those gates are locked, and an opening is left at the bottom large enough to receive the arm. There is likewise a bason, cut out of the stone, to supply the passers-by with water, which has rather a peculiar flavour.

The eye is delighted with the succession of beautiful scenery which the walk presents, and rambles in undiminished rapture at every point, over the varied and romantic objects which sportive nature has here produced. Precipices above, and accumulated alpines shut in the view to the south and west. Winding glens below, formed by smaller elevations; here and there houses seen almost embosomed in the woody ravines; the valley of Engenho Velho, sprinkled with white houses, which is also the site of the palace of St. Christovao; the city and bay, surrounded with their amphitheatres of mountains; the high soaring masses near the pass to the Tejuca; the towering piles of the Organ range, and others of varied appearance to the right, edging the distant horizon, together form a grand totality, a most animated and animating picture, extending far to the north and east, harmonizing the feelings, and lifting the mind into a profound and pleasing train of wonder and adoration of the all-powerful being who has ordained these noble diversities of nature, over which his creative hand has thrown the graceful and cheerful covering of verdant trees and shrubs, swarming in wild profusion, the hand of man having in few places contributed its aid.

This charming picture is lost to view on passing the opening betwixt the pillars, where the prospect, although more confined, is admirable, consisting of the deep recesses of the Orange Valley, the more lofty features of the mountains which encompass it, and the singularly formed Corcovada at its head, all rising into indescribable magnificence. These are scenes that would have delighted and invigorated with new energy the most exalted poets and painters. From hence, a narrower terrace, covered with entwining brushwood, and skirting along the side of the mountains for about a mile, brought us to the head of the valley, where the origin of the aqueduct is marked, by an inscription, to have taken place in the year 1744. Its source is adorned with a fine cascade, at the foot of which, a declining platform of rocks, overshadowed with trees, and refreshed with the falling water, afforded us a delightful retreat from the rays of the sun; and here in reality we enjoyed the refreshment a slave had brought for us: above us the rugged mountains in precipices and the stony bed of the rivulet were seen, overhung with high trees and shrubs as far as the [57]eye could reach. In this place, and from these waters, a poetical mind must, indeed, imbibe those draughts of inspiration which the vale of Tempe, and the mountain and stream of Parnassus are fabled to have produced. A long and intricate path leads from hence to the summit of the Corcovada Mountain; below us there was an abrupt and rocky steep, its sides covered with thickly growing brushwood, down which the water descended in a murmuring course to the valley; the whole of its varieties of verdure and fertility, with the bay of Bota-fogo at its lower extremity, was within our view. A winding road led us to a point, where we descended by a difficult way into the valley, while its fine oranges, growing spontaneously, supplied us with a dessert. It is beautified with some elegant houses, of one of which, at the bottom, almost opposite to the Queen’s cottage, the accompanying sketch is a specimen. Our way from hence continued by the Cateta and the Gloria to Rio.

The open spaces of the city, denominated squares, consist of the Palace Square, one hundred and fifty yards long, and eighty wide, with two good landing stairs from the bay; of the Roceo, one hundred and eighty yards long, and one hundred wide; and the Capim, recently called Peloirinho. In the Cidado Nova, there is one which occupies the intermediate space of the crossing of four streets; but, although these are open spaces, they have little regularity or semblance to any thing that produces the idea of a square. The Royal Palace which has more the appearance of a manufactory than the residence of a king, is composed of that formerly occupied by the viceroys, the convent of the Carmelites, and the senate-house, united by passages, the first forming the southern side of the square, and the latter the western. The northern side consists of a row of houses, which are private property, with two stories the same as the others. The first portion has twenty-four windows on the side, and nine in front towards the bay, the lower part of which is occupied by the guards and some public offices, the rooms above are generally used by the King for public levees. Some of the merchants and groups of the male inhabitants frequent every evening that part of the square, and the walls adjoining the landing places and bordering the bay afford convenient seats, which are fully occupied. Here the arrival of vessels is ascertained, and the sea-breeze enjoyed.

The mint, the armory, the naval arsenal, and that of the military, (called trem,) and the custom house, are the principal public buildings; but of themselves present nothing particularly worthy of remark. There are various public trapiches, or warehouses for the deposit of produce. The public gardens, which[58] are stated by some travellers to have been fully and gaily attended some twelve or fourteen years ago, are now quite unfrequented, and sunk into neglect. This place of resort in former times consists of about two acres of ground, bordering upon the bay, enclosed with a high wall, and neatly laid out in walks of trees, overhung with a variety of evergreen foliage. There is a stone terrace at the end, ascended by two flights of steps, commanding a view of the bay, with the remains of two pavilions, and other mutilated objects. This place is not left without regret, that so cool and agreeable a situation, and so well calculated for a public promenade, is permitted to fall into decay. For the administration of justice the same tribunals exist here as at Lisbon. At the period of the suppression of the board of inspection, in 1808, was created the tribunal of the royal junta of commerce, agriculture, manufactures, and navigation, composed of ten deputies, a president, a secretary, and an official maior, (officiating mayor.) The Jesuitical library is open to the public; it contains about sixty thousand volumes, amongst which there are but few modern works, and a great many old ones on theology. I was in the habit of frequenting it, and as is the custom at the national library in Paris, the librarian attends, immediately brings any book that may be required, and places it upon a small reading desk on the table, with which each person is accommodated. The very small number who attended consisted generally of priests and friars. Manufactories have yet acquired no footing in this city; there is however, one of sail-cloth, and another of silk stockings; also, a few miles distant, at Andrahi, there are works for printing cottons upon a small scale, and conducted by a person who has been in England. Coarse cottons are manufactured in the interior of Brazil, and they pass the shuttle with the hand, according to the mode used in England formerly.

The only place of amusement in Rio is the theatre, erected within the last few years, and which, in point of external appearance, is beyond mediocrity. It contains four tiers of boxes on each side of the house, thirteen in each tier, making, in the whole, one hundred and four boxes, which are extremely gloomy, being shut in at the sides. The royal box occupies the whole of the space fronting the stage, above which there is a small gallery; and the pit contains about four hundred persons. The orchestra is esteemed very tolerable; but the performances are indifferent. Two French dancers and their wives are at present the magnets of attraction; and there is great emulation between them for the palm of superiority. The Campo St. Anna contains a large building, erected for the purpose of bull-baiting; but the Brazilian bull not possessing the fire and fury of this animal in Europe, was the reason of its falling into disuse, and creditable[59] would it be if so irrational and cruel an amusement was discontinued. Within the last two years, this building was the scene of the various feats in horsemanship of Mr. Southby and his troop, for which it is well adapted. The clown, soon acquiring some of the local peculiarities of the people, produced amongst them a fund of merriment they had been little accustomed to; and they expressed themselves more highly astonished and pleased with those performances, and the wonderful display of agility by Mrs. Southby on the tight rope, than any thing they had ever before witnessed.

The city of Rio de Janeiro was taken by the French, in the year 1711, under M. Duguay Truin, and afterwards recovered by the people. In the preceding year, M. du Clerc had entered the town, conducted by two fugitive negroes, from Ilha Grande.

There are three principal roads leading from this city, none of which are adapted to the use of a carriage for more than six or seven miles. The first, leading to the southward, after passing the public gardens and the Lapa, proceeds, for a short distance, along the banks of the bay, commanding a view of its entrance, which is soon interrupted by the Gloria Hill, behind which the road passes, and continues in a parallel line with the Pria Flemingo, which is adorned with several neat houses, many of them occupied by English merchants. The Hon. Mr. Thornton had taken up a temporary residence in one of them. After crossing a small bridge at the Cateta, the road conducts, for about a mile and a half, betwixt luxuriant and verdant hedges, to the beach or Pria of Bota-fogo, which is a fine bay, shut in by picturesque promontories and headlands, leaving only a narrow channel for the ingress and egress of its waters. This beach is edged with some of the neatest and most elegant houses in the vicinity of Rio de Janeiro, many of them occupied by fidalgos, and others by English merchants; one of which, in the possession of Mr. Harrison, exhibits all the beauty, elegance, and comfort of an English villa. Bye-roads lead from hence to the Pria Vermelha, to the royal powder manufactory, and the botanical garden already mentioned. In many parts the Cateta road is in a very bad state of repair, and the holes and hollow places form pools of water after the least fall of rain. The other two roads lead to the north of the city, both branching from the Campo St. Anna, and again communicate in passing Matta Porcas. The first and principal one proceeds from the right of the Campo, and continues for about a mile and a half, to the wooden bridge of St. Diogo, across a marshy flat, which eight or ten years ago was impassable, and is now denominated the Cidade Nova, of which it may in time constitute[60] a portion. The road of the Cidade Nova, being the daily route of the royal family, is kept in pretty good order, as well as the whole road as far as the palace of Christovao, which at Matta Porcas turns to the right, and continues for about two miles along a level, with amphitheatres of various and picturesque mountains in every direction. After crossing the third brook, by a small bridge, the way to the palace turns to the left, when a handsome entrance is discovered, not in unison with the palace, but consisting of a wall and iron palisades, extending about thirty yards on each side of it, without any contiguous lodge or building. From hence the road sweeps to the left, up a gentle acclivity, to the eminence upon which the palace stands, fronted by a square, not embellished with shrubs and grass-plots, but of deep sand, which is entered by the left corner, and not by the grand entrance, composed of the elegant gates, a counterpart of those at Sion House, and sent as a present to his Majesty by the Duke of Northumberland. They are placed in the centre betwixt pillars of granite, peculiar to the country, and two lodges, the remainder on each side along the whole front of the palace being completed with palisades of Portuguese workmanship. It will excite some surprise in the reader to be informed, that the outer part, which should form a road to this entrance, is allowed to remain in its natural state of hollow and uneven ground, when no very great labour would be required to render it complete. At present, the gates are in disuse, the lodges closed, and, with the aid of the dirt and gunpowder arising from the fire-works ranged along their front, on occasions of religious festivals, the whole already appears in a course of dilapidation. The palace is one story high, perfectly plain, without any pretensions to elegance, or the semblance of any order of architecture, and can boast of nothing but the beauty of its situation. It might, indeed, be mistaken, at a distance, for a manufactory, in consequence of the windows being so crowded together, and particularly at night, when it is lighted up.

The road, from the point which leads to the palace, continues by either turning a little further on to the left, and ascending a hill, or by the Campo St. Christovao, which sweeps round the hill and meets the other road on the opposite side, and afterwards leads on to the province of St. Paulo and Minas Geraes. It is the grand track of the miners and others coming from distant districts, and presents successive troops of mules, laden with different produce, attached to their curious and rudely constructed pack-saddles, by straps of raw hides.

The road of St. Christovao and the Cidade Nova, are generally crowded[61] by these caravans, their drivers of all complexions, dressed in cotton shirts and trowsers, with slouching hats, and combined with the horses and mules, carrying persons of rather a superior order coming also from the interior, amount to the aggregate number of at least two thousand passing and re-passing daily. It would be difficult to describe the variety of costume and rude appearance of the latter persons, many of whom are dressed in black or dirty white hats, with prodigious rims, a capote, or cloak, frequently of sky-blue, thrown round the front part of the body, and being crossed behind them, hangs in folds on each side of the mule. The bits of their bridles, their saddles, and stirrups, are of various antiquated and fantastic shapes. Some wear boots of brown leather, closely fitted to the leg, bound round the top with a strap and large buckle; others with capotes, large hats, &c. wear neither shoes nor boots, but introduce the great toes only into the stirrups, and with large heavy spurs upon the naked heels, are not the least remarkable among these burlesque figures. I have frequently ridden with them, and always found that they were communicative and civil. Their mules, which had performed journeys of two and three months, did not appear to have sustained much injury. These people mostly frequent certain streets in the city for disposal of their produce, and the purchase of manufactured goods. The Rua de Candelaria is the great mart for cheeses, brought from the interior. The Rua de Violas, Rua de St. Pedro, &c. are visited by the miners; and some of the shopkeepers, of whom they buy their return cargo, occasionally purchase from the English merchants three or four thousand pounds of goods in one bargain.

The other road leading from the Campo St. Anna, does not present so much traffic as the last, and is denominated the old road. It proceeds through the village of Catimby, and from thence to Matta Porcas, one end of which it passes, and advances through the valley, having many good houses by its sides, to Andrahi, contracting afterwards betwixt the mountains into a narrow bridle way, leading to the district of Tejuco. From this road, near the Pedro Mountain, a cross road, with some good houses, the principal one recently occupied by Mr. Gill, an English merchant, conducts through the extremity of the valley of Engenho Velho, and at a distance of about half a mile unites itself with a road coming through another portion of the same valley, from the stone bridge near the turn to the palace. After this junction, the road proceeds through the valley of Engenho Novo, and communicates with the great road to the mines.

The road which turns off at the stone bridge last mentioned is a lane much[62] frequented by the royal family, and is bounded by beautifully verdant hedges, and some neat shacaras, and is not dissimilar in appearance to the green lanes, leading from London to Southgate. It is the limit of the King’s shacara on the right. About three quarters of a mile from its commencement is situated the Casa de Don Pedro, recently erected in the form of a castle, with a flag-staff at the top, the ground-floor consisting of one good sized room, and four smaller, covered with India matting, and furnished with chairs and sofas, but by no means in a royal style. From the palace to this casa is a favourite walk of the King’s; the interval forms the royal shacara, and is laid out in walks, crossing each other at right angles, shaded by an abundant variety of trees, which have been planted only within the last few years, and demonstrate by their state of maturity, the exuberant fertility of the soil and climate.

The road continues from hence, across a brook, by a wooden bridge, which bounds the King’s shacara on that side; and very near to it is the royal mill, which is yet far from being completed, although it was begun five or six years ago. It is intended to have one water-wheel and four pair of mill-stones. The model of the building and the machinery were sent from Lisbon. When the mill is finished, it is expected to grind forty sacks of wheat during the day and night, for which the public will be charged two crusades (about five shillings) per sack, of three alqueiras, or about three and a half of Winchester bushels.

One hundred yards further is situated Bella-fonta, the fine shacara of Mr. Wright, under whose roof I received every kindness and hospitality possible, during my residence at Rio; and am happy in this opportunity of acknowledging, in common with all who know him, the high estimation I entertain of his character.

Within the circuit of the roads described, the valley of Engenho Velho is adorned with numerous neat shacaras, abounding with walks formed of oranges, and all the fruit trees of the tropics. Many give the preference to a residence on the Cateta side; but, in consequence of the royal family frequenting this quarter, I think the spirit of improvement shows itself more decidedly in this direction, and although the sea breezes do not reach it, the land breezes from the adjacent mountains, sweeping along the valley, render the mornings and evenings particularly delightful. The dews are here profuse.

I accompanied a gentleman, in the month of September, to see the Casa de Don Pedro, from whence we proceeded along the delightfully shaded walks of the shacara to the palace, which is in the progress of augmentation by some buildings under the inspection of Mr. Johnson, who came to the Brazil with [63]the gates from the Duke of Northumberland, and who has been since employed by the King in superintending the progressive enlargement of the palace. On this day, all bands were fully employed in finishing a suite of rooms which his Majesty had a great wish to occupy that evening.

On descending a hill from the palace, we perceived Prince Don Miguel in a field below, dressed in a pair of great jack-boots, a cocked hat, and a star upon his breast, with a pole about 10 feet long in his hand, attending a plough with one handle, drawn by six bullocks, followed by five or six negro drivers and a feitor.[12] They executed their work very imperfectly, allowing the greatest portion of the turf to fall down again. From the superfluity of animal power employed in this defective specimen of agriculture, our attention was directed to the royal stables, which contained about three hundred mules and horses of a diminutive size, with double the number of persons to look after them that would have been deemed necessary in England.

Prince Don Pedro had been breaking horses into harness all that morning, and we met him with the fourth pair; he used a large unwieldy whip, which, however, he administered pretty freely, making as much noise as a French postilion would, on announcing his arrival at a town, by the cracking of his whip. On passing him we stood still and took off our hats, which was only returned by an ungracious look. We also met Prince Don Miguel, returning from his agricultural amusement, accompanied by his feitor. He is a spare and pale-looking person, about sixteen years of age. Passing close to his elbow, we paid him the most respectful obeisance, but we were not honoured even with the least inclination of his head.

I walked one evening to see the fire-works, which had been preparing for some time for the celebration of a saint’s day, in front of the palace, ranged along, and a few yards distant from the gates and palisades. The veranda was filled with a great many priests and friars, and others about the person of the King. His Majesty and the rest of the family took their station at the fifth window, on the right of the handsome flight of stairs erected by Mr. Johnson. The fire-works were ill executed, and could not be put in comparison with such exhibitions in Europe, which is much to be wondered at, considering the immense revenue here annually expended in this way, and the great number of persons that live by it and follow no other pursuit. Every evening at eight o’clock, excepting holidays and Sundays, the King receives the public, in a room appropriated for the purpose, at St. Christovao, to the honour of beija-māo;[13] and[64] the roads of Cidade Nova, Catimby, and Matta Porcas are covered, on those occasions, with officers, and numerous persons in cabriolets, on horseback, and on foot, pressing towards the palace, consisting of those who have some object to carry with his Majesty. When the door is opened there is a promiscuous rushing forward, and a mulatto will be seen treading upon the heels of a general. They advance in single rank up one side of the room to the upper part, where his Majesty is seated, attended by his fidalgos in waiting, and, passing him in review, they countermarch in the same order. It is said that the King has an extraordinary memory, and recollects each individual as he passes, and the object of his visit; those who please speak to him, but a great proportion do not. It would appear that his Majesty is partial to seeing people in this way for a considerable period before he concedes what they want. A gentleman from Lisbon informed me that he had come to Rio expressly to gain some object with the government, and he anticipated a residence of twelve months there before he accomplished it. He purposed omitting none of those numerous attendances of beija-māo, unless his neglecting to do so might be observed by his Majesty; who, he observed was particularly desirous of detaining all Europeans there as long as possible. Senhor Thomas Antonio de Portugal, the minister of state, who has a shacara upon the left side of the road, already described, leading to Andrahi, holds a sort of public levee two days in each week, where crowds of officers and others attend, to submit their applications or to solicit his patronage, afterwards proceeding to perform the accustomed ceremony of beija-māo at the palace, during which period, from eight to nine o’clock, a band of music, in no very harmonious strains, is heard through a portion of the valley.

The fidalgos, and those who may be denominated the higher orders of society here, are infinitely behind corresponding classes in the leading states of Europe, both in the knowledge and practice of civilized life. The pleasures and refinements of social intercourse are alike unknown to them: jealous of foreigners, their conduct towards them is not marked by that attention or hospitality so conspicuous in other countries, where the cultivation of a liberal system of society prevails. Their main occupation consists in outward show, in the punctilious observance of court-etiquette, and a regular attendance upon the superstitious rites and festivals of the Catholic religion. Whatever little exists of pomp and splendour in this city is to be discovered in the temples, which are fitted up with rich profusion, more especially the parish churches, their altars and shrines exhibiting decorations of the most costly kind, in which respect[65] St. Sebastian, or the Royal Chapel, stands pre-eminent; its richly-gilded walls, carved work, and splendidly-ornamented altars, glittering with a profusion of gold, silver, and precious stones, surpass in brilliancy any thing that could be imagined, by a plain Christian, as essential to the purposes of divine worship. The chapel has some paintings, and one large piece over the chief altar, into which the late Queen and the principal part of the royal family are introduced. The King has a large box, not unlike an opera-box, above the place where grand mass is performed; here his Majesty and the rest of the family take their seats on festival-days; the bishop, in white or yellow satin, richly embroidered with gold, his mitre of the same, sits in great state below, opposite to the King, when he is not engaged in any part of the ceremony, in which he is assisted by a prodigious number of padres, and the service is performed with vast magnificence. The organ, accompanied by a crowd of vocal performers, amongst whom are five or six eunuchs, gratify, with some of the finest music of the Brazil, the audience, consisting, on some occasions, of many fidalgos, judges, ministers, and various individuals, who, in their gaudy robes, sit upon benches along the body of the chapel. There are others also who are led there by curiosity.

Here the King will sometimes spend the whole day, and, upon the celebration of some favourite saint’s day, will remain till midnight. These holidays and festivities are usually attended by an immense consumption of gunpowder, in rockets, fire-works, &c. The days of some saints are remarkable for the right every man, bearing the same name, assumes of lighting up a great bonfire in front of his house; and I remember accompanying a friend in his chaise, on the evening of St. John’s day, when we had some difficulty in getting the horse through the flames and sky-rockets that illuminated and occupied the whole street fronting the dwellings of all the Senhor Joaos. The horses generally, however, do not regard it, being so accustomed to fire and gunpowder. During my stay at Rio, a bell was christened, and placed on the south side of the royal chapel with much ceremony. The King was godfather and the widow Princess godmother. The bell was named John the Sixth, in honour of his Majesty, who sprinkled it with salt and water, and at the period that it was hoisted to its ultimate position, the town resounded with fire-works and sky-rockets.

Religious exhibitions and feasts succeed each other with very little intermission; and the Brazilian calendars present an innumerable list of them. At Whitsuntide, three or four days are dedicated to the consecration of oxen, fowls, &c. and[66] their consumption. The churches retail these articles at high prices, producing a considerable revenue. In some of the parishes, at this time, the inhabitants, by turns, are at the expense of a public feast, and it occasionally costs some individuals seven or eight hundred pounds. A boy, the son of the person giving this entertainment, sits upon a throne, attended by boys and girls of his own age; he is called the emperor, and, with a sceptre in his hand, presides over the feast. I saw two exhibitions of this sort on the 1st of June, one in the Campo St. Anna, and the other at the Lappa, accompanied with fire-works. They are extremely ludicrous. The festival of Corpus Christi, on the 10th of June, is one of their grandest processional displays. It is only upon these occasions that the ladies appear in public. Early in the day cabriolets, drawn by mules, are seen driving in every direction towards the Ruas Direita and d’Aquitanda, containing females in their gala dresses, while the military of every description are assembled in the streets to assist in the procession, which consists principally of priests and friars, whose prodigious numbers are calculated to swell out a cavalcade, together with numerous inhabitants of different parishes, wearing cloaks peculiar to the churches, which are various and showy. The whole form two lines, preceded with banners, each person, including the priests, carrying a preposterous-looking wax candle, about six feet high, one end of which is placed, at every step, upon the ground. The royal horses, sumptuously caparisoned, and decorated with ribands from their noses to the end of their long tails, are led by grooms dressed in the most tawdry style, the royal servants of every order following; then the judges, and all classes of people employed by the government. The fidalgos and ministers precede and follow the bishop, who carries the Host, under a superb canopy, attended by Princes Don Pedro and Don Miguel, the supporters of his train! The King usually follows the bishop as a train-bearer, but on this occasion he did not. The dresses of all were rich and costly; and the procession, amounting to some thousand persons, proceeded along the Rua Direita and returned, by the Rua d’Aquitanda, to the palace chapel; after which there was a grand display of fire-works. All the balconies were crowded with females, adorned with precious stones. The fronts of the houses were hung with silks and crimson velvet, gilded with ornaments; and the streets were strewed with green leaves. The general effect of the whole was very imposing.

There is rather a celebrated annual procession, on the 10th of October, in the Rua dos Ourives, having its foundation in some religious observance peculiar to the church of that street. All the houses are hung outside with tapestry and[67] other stuffs, and ornamented with looking-glasses, and a great portion of the furniture which the house contains, not of the most elegant sort, and generally not over abundant. A procession of padres, and numerous others belonging to the parish, takes place during the evening, drawing together an immense concourse of people, while the females, who spend the last penny to procure a gay dress for these occasions, appear at the balconies in a profusion of finery. The houses are illuminated, not with any transparent or appropriate devices, but with wax and common tallow candles; some placed in the front of looking-glasses, in order to produce a double brilliancy at half price.

The funeral processions are rather singular; and the interment of a child particularly would appear to be the season of rejoicing rather than grief. On these occasions the musical performers are the most choice and costly. The corpse is never kept more than one day from the time of the demise, and the funeral rites are usually celebrated after dark; every one that chooses enlisting into the procession by the acceptance of a wax-light. At a funeral which I saw at the Carmo, a large and handsome church adjoining the royal chapel, two lines of persons were ranged along the body of the building, from the entrance towards the altar, facing each other, every one holding a wax-light, nearly six feet high, in the right hand, and projected rather forward. Some of the individuals of this assembly might be friends of the deceased, but the major part consisted of persons casually met with in the streets, or such as were led by curiosity into the church. The acceptance of a light is deemed an honour done to the friends of the dead, and the agents of the padres are not very scrupulous in forcing them, if possible, into the hands of every one they see; the motive for doing this is ascertained on knowing that the remainder of all candles which are used become the perquisite of those very worthy brethren. At the head of the two lines, amounting to perhaps from one hundred to one hundred and fifty persons, the corpse was placed upon a table or elevated platform, with the head exposed to view, while its last vestments displayed the ill-founded notion of importance which its survivors attach to outward and meretricious show. The ceremony of itself not being calculated to impress the mind with awe, none of those feelings of respectful gravity were visible, which so solemn an occasion ought to have produced. When it was finished, the body was conducted, with no regular procession, through some outer avenues of the church, to the catacombs, situated in a passage opposite to the jesuitical library. On arriving at an inner cemetery of the catacombs, the lights of those who followed were extinguished and taken from them by the persons whose duty it was to secure this perquisite;[68] and every one retiring in consequence, the body disappeared by some other avenue, and I could not possibly discover how it was afterwards disposed of. Upon another occasion of the funeral obsequies of a general officer, I attempted to see their mode of executing this last office; but, from the quickness with which they slid away, and the extinguishing of the lights, I was again disappointed. A friend, however, gave me the following description of the interment of a girl, at which he was present. After the ceremony and the music had ceased, they proceeded from the said church of Our Lady of Carmo to the catacombs, where he arrived, with two or three others, at that point of the cemetery which was to receive the remains. The padres had disappeared, and no one was there but the father of the girl and a person who may be styled the sexton. The outer coverings had been taken off, and the girl appeared richly dressed in embroidered muslin, with silk stockings, and new shoes on, as if equipped for an assembly. The coffin had no bottom, but the body was supported upon a piece of satin, securely nailed around the upper part of it, when the nails being withdrawn from the sides, the father, who was not dressed in the sable vestments of a mourner but in those of a bridegroom, disgusted my friend by his wanton and unfeeling conduct, and at this moment threw a piece of muslin to the sexton, urging him to despatch by shouting out “depressa, depressa.” The muslin being drawn over the face of the girl, a large quantity of quick lime was placed upon it, and another portion spread from the head along the breast to the body, with a quantity on each side, when the man, with much ceremony, formed a cross upon it with his trowel. During the operation, the father, devoid of every proper sense of decency, cried out to him, “Vamos, vamos” (let us go); and, at another time, “Vamos, depressa, filho da pouta.” To render this last exclamation into English would only wound the feelings of those who do not understand it. Quick lime being now placed upon the flat stone of the cemetery, which runs horizontally a long way back, exhibiting its awful contents, the coffin was lifted up, and the nails of the end being also taken out, the body and piece of satin fell upon the quick lime, and the coffin was removed away. The cemeteries are afterwards walled up and plastered over in front. This father then, and even before, at the close of the church ceremony, embraced many people for joy, invited some to go home with him to a grand supper prepared for the occasion, and felt convinced that his child was gone to Heaven. Two or three hundred pounds are occasionally expended at funerals.

The catacombs are small but extremely neat, the first part forming a square,[69] ornamented with vases, and containing aromatic shrubs and flowers, is surrounded with a sort of piazza, the inner walls of which present the front of cemeteries, neatly plastered and numbered. Opposite the entrance, and crossing the square, a door-way leads to inner avenues, lined with cemeteries, kept exceedingly clean and in good order. At the extremity of one of these avenues is situated the general charnel-house, where the bones are piled in accumulating masses. After a certain lapse of time, the bones of individuals are taken from the cemeteries, bound together, and a large label, with their names inscribed upon it, affixed to them, then piled upon the bones of their predecessors in the charnel house, where two tapers are constantly burning; and it is not uncommon for the relatives of the deceased to visit this house of the dead on a certain day in the year, offering prayers in their behalf.

The bodies of the churches are open spaces, without seats or pews, and the women sit down in the Turkish style; they, as well as the men, occasionally fall upon their knees, and, during mass, go through the ceremonies of crossing their foreheads, chins, and breasts, at regular stated periods, frequently beating their bosoms with great vehemence, but which probably must not be taken as a positive demonstration of sincerity, however imposing it may outwardly appear.

The relation of one more procession will enable the reader to form some estimate of the religious character of this people. On the event of illness having assumed the appearance of terminating in death, the Host is conducted by one or more padres, and its usual attendants, in much pomp, with a burning of incense and the tinkling of bells, to the house of the dying person, to afford him the last consolations of his religion.

The procession of the Host requires from the public more obsequious reverence than all the other component ingredients of the Catholic faith. Many persons prostrate themselves before it on their knees, in the streets and balconies; others bend the body, and all take off their hats. I have frequently met this procession some miles in the country, the padre mounted on horseback, carrying with the same facility as an umbrella, a canopy in his hand, and under its sacred shade the Host, or emblem of the Holy Ghost, accompanied by some attendants uncovered, and robed in scarlet cloaks, also on horseback; the whole moving on at a quick ambling pace, with the tinkling of bells, the peculiarity of which announces their approach, producing an universal prostration of all persons, white and black, who may be in the fields or houses adjoining the road. There is one custom the Brazilians have, which, if sincere, cannot but be admired; every evening at sun-set, by a simultaneous movement,[70] they take off their hats in the public streets, offer up a prayer, or repeat Avi Marias; from which they have acquired the habit of denoting that period of the evening by the term of Avi Maria. And they say so and so before Avi Maria, at Avi Maria, or after Avi Maria.

I have been in the house of a Portuguese family at Avi Maria, when they appear to repeat a short prayer, after which a general salutation takes place, by saying “boa noite,” (good evening,) and holding out their hands, as if they were mutually bestowing a blessing. It is the custom for all slaves to hold their hands out in a similar manner night and morning, as soon as they see their superiors, for the purpose of offering a blessing, while their usual expression is “Abençoa senhor.”

Rio de Janeiro, although the residence of the court, is centuries behind in the comforts and enjoyments of civilized life. Strangers are disgusted with a first ramble through this city, and would not voluntarily pay it a second visit. Friendly attention to foreigners, although they may have letters of introduction, the Brazilians are seldom or ever known to practise. After some ceremony, they follow the person introduced to the top of the stairs, wait there till he arrives at the bottom, subject him to the further form of turning round to receive their final salutation, and thus the matter briefly ends. How different to the refinement of their neighbouring colonists, the Spaniards, whose houses and tertulas, at Monte Video, at Buenos Ayres, and all other parts of Spanish America, are open to strangers, who experience every liberality and social attention from them. I was assured by an English gentleman, who has resided ten years in the Brazil, that he never witnessed any symptom of genuine hospitality, and he had notwithstanding acted with friendship to many; and to one gentleman, in particular, he had rendered frequent services, at whose house he had called on various occasions, and sometimes casually at the dinner hour, but was never invited to take dinner or any kind of refreshment. Even the principal people have no idea of the comforts of the table; when they give feasts, it is with an extravagant profusion of dishes, without any regard to the arrangement, and unattended with any of that elegant ease and order practised by similar classes in most European countries.

To the want of encouragement and public spirit on the part of the leading inhabitants, and the consequent unwise regulation of the government, may be attributed the present state of the provision-market. The beef is of such a quality, that it is really quite disgusting to the sight. The cattle are certainly driven a great distance, and are in a wretched state on their arrival at the [71]capital; but this difficulty would be remedied by the adoption of a different system. Beef now pays a small duty, and by law is sold at 30 reas (or about 3d.) per lb. and one man has the contract; let it be of the worst quality the price is the same; by the payment of an adequate sum a piece of good beef cannot be obtained. Let this important branch of commerce be thrown open, without any restriction of price; allow it to rest upon the basis of fair competition, and a good quality of this article would be seen in the metropolis, without any great additional price. Mutton is not very generally in use, particularly amongst the Brazilians; I have however seen some very good, which was fed by an Englishman. Veal is rarely if ever seen. Pork is decidedly the best meat obtained here. Vegetables and fruit are very abundant, and at reasonable prices. Potatoes are not produced, except by some of the English; but they degenerate after a year or two, by continuing to plant from the same stock. Poultry of all kinds is dear, and fish is occasionally so, arising more from the indolence of the fishermen, than any scarcity, as the bay and outside of the bar furnish an abundance, and some of a very fine flavour. Upon the whole, living at Rio is as expensive or more so than in London, with none of the comforts of the latter place. A house two stories high, consisting of a store below, and accommodation for a moderate sized family above, will let for two hundred and fifty or three hundred pounds per annum; and houses in the vicinity of the city, with little comparative convenience, will rent at seventy or eighty pounds a year; while those more commodious are proportionably higher.

The population of Rio de Janeiro is estimated at about one hundred and fifty thousand souls, two-thirds of which are negroes, mulattoes, and others, exhibiting every variety of complexion. The Brazilians residing here, and in the vicinity are denominated Cariocas by the European Portuguese; the meaning or origin of which term I could not learn; the latter falsely considering themselves much superior to the former.

The mulattoes are a portion of the population much the most healthy and robust, their mixture of African and Brazilian constitution appearing exactly adapted to the climate. The negroes are probably not used with more inhumanity here than in other colonies. In the interior they are treated much better than at Rio de Janeiro, where, in some instances, much cruelty is practised. For a trifling offence, they are sometimes committed to the charge of two or three soldiers, who pinion them with cords, and beat them in the most unfeeling manner along the streets, to the Calobouco, a prison for the blacks, where they are destined perhaps to receive a severe castigation before they are liberated. Their owners procure an order from the intendant-general of the police, for one, two, or three hundred lashes, according to the dictates of their caprice or passion, which punishment is administered to those poor wretches by one of their own countrymen, a stout, savage-looking, degraded[73] Negro. A gentleman obtained an order for the flagellation of one of his runaway slaves, with two hundred lashes. On his name being called several times, he appeared at the door of a dungeon, where the negroes seemed to be promiscuously confined together. A rope was put round his neck, and he was led to a large post, in the adjoining yard; around which his arms and feet were bound, while a rope secured his body in like manner, and another, firmly fastened round his thighs, rendered the movement of a single member wholly impossible. The black degradado set to work very mechanically, and at every stroke, which appeared to cut part of the flesh away, he gave a singular whistle. The stripes were repeated always upon the same part, and the negro bore the one hundred lashes he received at this time with the most determined resolution. On receiving the first and second strokes he called out “Jesu,” but afterwards laid his head against the side of the post, not uttering a syllable, or asking for mercy; but what he suffered was strongly visible in the tremulous agitation of the whole frame. The scene was deeply afflicting, and it was to be regretted that the man who was capable of such fortitude should be in a condition that subjected him to so painful and degrading an infliction. He received the other one hundred lashes on the third day following, after which, a heavy iron chain to his leg, and an iron riveted round his neck, from which a trident stood up above the head, by way of ornament, would be no pleasant appendages with which to pursue his usual labour.

There are men who profess to be catchers of runaway negroes, and frequently detain and ill use them when they are proceeding upon their employment, keep them confined during a night, conduct them home tied with ropes, and pretend they have detected them running away, for which they demand certain charges and a recompense. I was present when two of those fellows brought a poor negro girl whom they had detained, and it was proved that they stopped her when she was really in pursuit of her occupation. They failed in receiving the recompense they so basely sought, but they ought to have been made a severe example of. It is painful to observe, that if a negro is stopped, or forced away, or in any manner ill-treated, nobody takes his part or believes his story.

A great many persons live entirely in idleness, upon the earnings of one, two, or three slaves, who are denominated “negros de ganho,” and stroll about the streets for employment: they are distinguished by a large basket which they carry; others of both sexes are employed in carrying water in tubs, from the fountains, for the supply of the inhabitants; the fountains are crowded all day, and are attended by a couple of soldiers to preserve order. The streets after[74] dark are most offensively filled with negroes, carrying tubs of soil to empty at the beach, a water-closet, or privy, not being known in this city. If these negroes do not bring a certain sum of money to their owners at night, the penalty is generally a severe castigation. Many of the negro slaves are remarkably well formed, particularly some of those who labour at the custom-house, and exhibit much muscular strength about their whole frames, combined with such symmetry of form, that the lineaments and swelling muscles of their naked bodies reminded me of some fine antique models. They wear cotton trowsers, the rest of the body being exposed. The principal part of the importations are removed from the custom-house by them, and their dreadful shoutings and yellings, as a stimulus under their burdens, resound through the streets and suburbs all day. Few waggons are used, and those of a rude construction; the axle-trees, revolving with the wheels, produce a loud and discordant noise.

The humane attempts of some English merchants to introduce waggons, for conveying goods from the custom-house, were effectually opposed by the clerks of that establishment, who have the privilege through intrigue of exclusively letting out their slaves for this employment. The universal diet of the negroes is the farinha, or flour, of the mandioca root, which they mix up with warm water, and occasionally are indulged with a little toucinho, or fat bacon, to it; but in the mining districts they use the flour of Indian corn, which a negro, who had worked at the gold mines, informed me, was preferred amongst them to the first. The Brazilians themselves use a great deal of farinha, many families almost subsisting upon it; and when dressed up, as is the custom in some parts of the Brazil, particularly at Pernambuco, with green peppers, &c. into a state they call pirao, it is very palatable. Feijaos and carne-secco, which are black beans and dried beef stewed together, is a dish much used amongst the Brazilians, and an European with a sharp appetite will not find it a bad relish.

The slave-ships arriving at the Brazil present a terrible picture of human wretchedness, the decks being crowded with beings as closely stowed as it is possible, whose melancholy black faces, and gaunt naked bodies, are of themselves sufficient to transfix with horror an individual unused to such scenes, independently of the painful reflections connected with a consideration of the debasing circumstances and condition of this portion of mankind. A great many of them, as they are seen proceeding from the ships to the warehouses where they are to be exposed for sale, actually appear like walking skeletons, particularly the children; and the skin, which scarcely seems adequate to keep the [75]bones together, is covered with a loathsome disease, which the Portuguese call sarna, but may more properly be denominated the scurvy. The poor wretches undergo painful remedies to prepare them as speedily as possible for market. If a visit to the street of warehouses appropriated to their reception be occasioned by a desire of gratifying curiosity, the sentiments brought into operation by such a scene will soon hurry the visitor away in pity and disgust. They are crowded together without regard to sex, and made to sit down in rows upon the ground, being by turns roughly forced upon their feet, for the purpose of exhibiting their bodily powers to a purchaser. Negroes are become very dear; those that might have been procured three years ago for thirty-five or forty pounds, are now worth sixty or seventy.

Strangers coming here are also subject to the sarna, as well as the natives, which is an irruption attended with considerable irritation and itching about the legs, feet, and ancles, and becomes troublesome unless great care is taken, by washing them every night with warm water and cachaça. The bicho is also another annoyance peculiar to the climate, ever filling the air, the water, and the earth with new and infinite animation. This insect generates in the dust and sand, and penetrating the foot not larger than an atom at first, increases to the size of a small white worm, giving considerable pain till extracted; in doing which, it is necessary to remove all the little eggs which it leaves behind, otherwise they would soon acquire life, and, if allowed, eat away the foot. I have seen numbers of negroes, whose legs and feet, with the aid of the sarna, have been literally destroyed, and almost corroded away by them. The little black boys sitting down, and extracting them from their feet with a pin, reminded me of the celebrated bronze figure of a boy, in the attitude of taking a thorn from his foot, which occupies a place in the Salle de Laocoon, at the Louvre.

In traversing the woods, the carrapato, with which the branches frequently swarm, is an annoying and dangerous enemy. It is similar in appearance to a sheep-tick, and introduces the head and main part of the body into the flesh, when, if taken away forcibly, it leaves a disagreeable wound. One of these vermin penetrated the leg of the King, and, being injudiciously forced away, caused a wound, which has been occasionally troublesome to his Majesty ever since. The application of oil is deemed an efficacious mode of removing them; but I found this ineffectual, after using it copiously for about half an hour on one that was nearly buried in the ear of a negro-boy.

On first arriving here, the inharmonious sounds which begin to annoy the ear about Avi Maria, sent forth by field-crickets, frogs, toads, and other[76] reptiles, are quite alarming to a stranger, who anticipates at every step, if he walks into a shacara, to encounter some venomous creature. It is custom alone that reconciles this loud, unceasing, nocturnal clamour. Lizards are very numerous, some of a green colour. They are timid, and are constantly seen running across the roads, up walls, or rustling amongst the hedges. The vampire-bat is very large here, and if they can get access to the stables will fix upon a horse, and suck the blood. I have seen the back of a horse quite saturated with it, in consequence of a bite from one of them. They are said to fan their wings, during this sanguinary proceeding, in order to assuage the pain which their bite creates. It is supposed that they would fix upon the human body in the same way; and this is probable, from the following circumstance. In consequence of the excessive heat, I was in the habit of leaving open the shutter of my bed-room. One evening I discovered a vampire-bat, as large as two hands, upon the bed-post, and, by a blow, stunned it, so that it could not escape by the window, but secreted itself in the room. During the night it got twice upon the bed, but the heat preventing a sound sleep, I was quickly awakened by its attempts.

It is too well known, perhaps, to remark that the Brazil is not the seat of literature; in fact, its total absence is marked by the prohibition of books generally, and the want of any single medium through which its inhabitants can attain even to a knowledge of the existing state of the world, or what is passing in it. The inhabitants are principally involved in great ignorance and pride, its usual consequence; an acquirement of the modes and ceremonies attached to the pompous observance of their religion appearing to be deemed quite adequate to all the purposes of the present system of society. A liberal literary institution of any kind throughout the state, or a stimulus to a man of talent, would be looked for in vain. A gazette, published twice a week, is printed at the royal press, the only one established here; but it affords to the people no intelligence of the state of their own country or that of others. It is the size of a sheet of small letter-paper, and is filled with the arrivals and departures of vessels, and some advertisements, while occasionally two or three heads are extracted with caution from the English newspapers. In the whole of the Brazil there is only one other gazette, and that is published at Bahia. Its neighbouring colony of Spanish South America has already begun to dispel the ignorance in which it was alike enveloped, by the establishment of several public colleges in different places, and the liberal and free introduction of books, which will fast promote the spirit of learning that partially begins to[77] dawn. Jealousy, which acquires a greater sway, from this confined state of education and knowledge, obtains unbounded influence over the minds of many of the Brazilians, and operates in some instances to such a degree that its victims are degraded much below the savage: they do not declare their resentment openly, and demand frankly that redress or explanation which a man sustaining a real or imaginary injury from another has a right to require; but they seek in privacy the destruction of the object who may have created in their breasts sentiments of revenge, frequently resting upon a false and unjust foundation, but which the inveteracy of this diabolical passion will allow them neither to investigate nor to solicit what in Europe is deemed a fair and honourable satisfaction. Jealousy is a highly praiseworthy feeling when it is regulated with candour and justice, but allied with the vile cowardice of clandestine assassination, perpetrated by the hands of the party themselves, or through the medium of a hired agent, it is of all others the most wicked and hellish that can actuate the human mind.

That instances have occurred in the Brazil wherein both those modes have been practised, for the gratification of this passion, unjustly indulged, is but too true. An English gentleman, who has resided in the Brazil nearly forty years, informed me of a circumstance which he witnessed in this city, previously to the arrival of the royal family. A British officer, whose ship was taking in refreshments here, on passing through the Palace Square to a boat waiting to take him on board his vessel, suddenly received a facada by a person who drew a knife from under a capote, or cloak, (which the Brazilians are in the habit of wearing), concealed for the purpose, and which terminated his existence. It was said that this wretch had unjustly encouraged a feeling of jealousy against the British officer in regard to his wife, or some part of his family. Many of the Brazilians carry knives, hid under the sleeve of their capotes, which they throw and use with great dexterity. I was horror-struck to see at Rio the samples of an importation of knives from England, manufactured expressly for this purpose. In cases of quarrels amongst themselves they frequently use them, and quickly fold the capote around the left arm, which serves for a sort of shield.

Religious festas, as has been before stated, are occurring weekly, and amongst other funçons, as they are called, one annually takes place in the beautiful island of Paquata, one of the fairest and most picturesque in the bay. The English merchants are generally applied to for subscriptions for this festival, which they accord with their accustomed liberality. It is a[78] delightful water excursion, which, added to the charms of the island itself, induce all the world to be of the party, and under the religious cloak of these occasions, females always appear in public. A worthy captain of an English merchantman was induced, upon one of those festivals, recently, to accompany a party in his own boat; and, the mode of refreshment being of the pic-nic kind, he came in contact with an adjoining group, including several females, to whom he was tempted to pay some attention, and thereby unconsciously excited the jealousy of a monster in the shape of a human being, who was of the party; and at the moment of his departure from the island, the boat having only proceeded some yards, a knife was thrown with such unerring aim at him that it produced his immediate death. That blacks, slaves, and others, are hired to commit such atrocities, by the payment of a small recompense, is a fact affirmed to be notorious; one authenticated instance will be sufficient to show that it is too correct. It is within a short period that the inhabitants of Pria Flemingo were much shocked at the discovery of a dead body upon that beach, decapitated, and in a state of nudity, so that no trace was left to find out who the unfortunate individual might be. This mysterious circumstance excited deep interest, and produced the offer of a reward for the detection of the perpetrator of so foul a deed. During the interval that the matter was involved in uncertainty, it was known to the friars of a monastery that one of their members was missing; but, it would appear, nothing was said by them regarding the lost brother, from the apprehension, probably, that something vicious or improper might arise out of the investigation, not quite honourable to their sect. At last, from a fear of detection, and a consciousness of guilt, the real culprit came to the determination of communicating the affair to the King, presuming upon the known mercy of his Majesty, which is so unbounded that few persons have suffered the punishment of death since he ascended the throne, although it is possible the royal forbearance may have frustrated, in some instances, the just expiation of guilt.[14] On this occasion also the criminal was not brought to justice, who, it is ascertained, was a fidalgo, whose jealousy was roused by the frequent visits the friar already mentioned paid to his wife, for the professed purpose of exacting the confessional duties of herself and[79] family. It is not ascertained whether he had any real cause or not for the excitement of this passion; he unquestionably conceived he had, from the measures which he adopted of engaging two or three blacks to embrace an opportunity of murdering the friar, severing the head from the body, and divesting him of his sacerdotal robes. The discovery of the body was made under circumstances that did not involve those who found it in any difficulty; but it is possible that an innocent individual finding a dead person, unacquainted with the customs of the country, might be subjected to some inconvenience; and I had almost got into such a predicament myself. Not far from the Campo de St. Christovao, a beach leading to the point of Cajú affords an interesting view of the bay. I had just entered upon it one evening, in September, on horseback, when I was startled at the appearance of a dead man extended upon the sand, which the receding tide had just deposited there: he was very well dressed, in the habit of a sailor, and, the hair being of an auburn colour, I concluded he was the mate of an English ship. My endeavours to procure the aid of some Portuguese at a short distance were unavailing; no one would approach; and two or three persons in a cabriolet, who passed close by, regarded me and the dead sailor with indifference. I also addressed myself to the next person who came up on horseback; he dismounted, and I immediately found that he was an Englishman: he turned the body over, when the face appeared terribly mangled; he suggested that the property upon the person should be secured, which amounted to upwards of one pound in Portuguese money, a silver watch, a gold brooch, and other things, of which an account was taken and delivered to my care, with which I purposed going directly to the minister of police, and to request that the body might be taken care of, as it was impossible to get any one in the neighbourhood to take it in, or even come near the place. After paying two negroes to move the body from the beach, and place it under a hedge, I set off to carry my intentions into effect. On the road to the city I met an English gentleman, to whom I stated the matter; he requested me by no means to go to the police-office, as I should unquestionably be detained and lodged in prison till I proved that I was not the cause of the man’s death. This information deterred me from proceeding farther; but the idea that this unfortunate individual might have a wife, children, and friends at home, determined me to prepare an account of his person, with a view of posting it at the custom-house next morning, which might have led to an identification of his person. I previously called upon Mr. Harrison, a highly-respectable and long-resident merchant here, and he effectually convinced me of the hazardous consequences[80] of a further interference in it. One gentleman said, “If you see a dead body, gallop off;” another, “If you perceive a dispute, from which one of the parties is likely to lose his life, fly, or you may be compelled to prove that you were not accessory to his death.” I immediately deposited the property at the British Consul’s office, being under some apprehension, but I never heard more of the matter. No doubt the body became a prey to the dogs and wild birds, and the friends of this poor man will most probably never hear of his fate.

Upon being detected in the commission of a crime, the perpetrator frequently flies to the altar of a contiguous church; where I once saw a criminal remain for several hours, being privileged from capture till an order was obtained from the bishop for his arrest. This, like many other observances of the Roman Catholics, is a practice derived from the Mosaic law.

The circumstances attending the execution of the criminal alluded to in the last note were rather singular, although common here upon such occasions. He was conducted on foot for a considerable distance through the streets, accompanied by padres, to the place of execution. There he was laid upon his back against the upper part of the ladder attached to the scaffold, and, on the rope being fastened round his neck, he was pushed off, with a negro upon his shoulders to accelerate his death. The head and hands were afterwards severed from the body and placed at each angle of the gallows, as represented in the plate.

The regular military force of Rio de Janeiro, and the immediately surrounding district, may be estimated at five thousand men, consisting of two regiments of infantry and one of cassadores from Portugal, some regiments of Brazilian infantry and cavalry, mulattoes and blacks, including the royal guard, exceedingly ill mounted and ineffective. The police of the city consists of a regiment of infantry and cavalry; this department appears to be well arranged. Although the principal plan for the protection of the Brazil is the militia law, to which all the inhabitants are liable, yet, in point of discipline they are very deficient, but in dress and equipment they reach mediocrity. None of the regular regiments are in a state of good discipline; those from Portugal are the best, but they are dissatisfied with the Brazilian service, and I was assured by one of their officers that they have relaxed very much in their duty. The mining districts and the other adjoining provinces are furnished with light cavalry, to which may be added the militia, who are usually called out for exercise on Sundays and holidays. The force at Monte Video amounts to eight thousand men, under General Le Cour, and the troops under General[81] Rego (the Captain-General) at Pernambuco, are decidedly under the best discipline. Those two officers served with Lord Wellington in the peninsular campaign. The thirty-eighth British regiment proceeding to the Cape of Good Hope put into Rio de Janeiro for refreshment; the men being permitted occasionally to go on shore were soon recognised by one of the regiments from Portugal as their companions in war. The salutations which occurred between them induced the King to make some inquiries respecting this regiment, when he expressed his desire to see them reviewed, which the commanding officer acceded to. Boats were furnished to convey them up the bay to the Campo of St. Christovao, where they went through their evolutions with such precision that the royal family, and nearly the whole population of Rio and its vicinity, assembled upon the spot, were much gratified, and spoke highly of their fine military appearance.

Since the removal of the court to the Brazil, a bank has been established in this city, which commenced upon the plausible plan of affording great facility to commerce, by discounting bills at the rate of six per cent.; but this banking company soon curtailed these accommodations, on finding that, through private channels and agents, they could obtain ten, twelve, and fifteen per cent. by making loans, and advancing their notes upon securities not of the first character and validity. In order to provide against this sort of traffic, and acquire an unfair advantage over the public, they had the address to convince the King that they were entitled to have a prior claim over the property of an insolvent before other creditors, and, in consequence, his Majesty, (then Prince Regent,) passed laws, of the 24th September, 1814, and the 16th February, 1816, conceding to them certain preferences; and, by a decree of the 29th November, 1818, he granted them the full privilege of a first and distinct claim, before all other creditors, which is tantamount to the important public right the British government, by virtue of extents, have over the national property in the hands of any individual, and which every state can, with equal justice, practise for the security of its revenue. But that such a preference should be allowed to a body of merchants, trading for gain, over other claimants precisely in the same circumstances, is an innovation upon the laws of commerce not founded in justice. In most instances, our own countrymen will be found to be the greatest sufferers, their liberal accommodations being too often unfairly taken advantage of. The bank declared a dividend of twenty per cent. last year; and, notwithstanding the profitable operations which afforded such a result, it was very recently involved in a[82] temporary embarrassment, arising principally from the want of a competent knowledge of those financial arrangements, foresight, and ingenuity, so important and essential in the direction of a banking concern. In this dilemma, the directors received effectual pecuniary aid from the English house of Messrs. Samuels, Phillips, and Co. established here, with the same promptitude which marks the financial transactions of its connexions in Europe.

The revenue raised in the Brazil is computed at from six to seven millions sterling, including the pecuniary aid the government receives from Portugal, but which sum is not adequate to the demands upon the treasury; many remaining in arrears, and others, with more influence, getting their claims liquidated, after much delay. The military establishment would not appear to require a very large sum, the militia not creating an item of much expense, and the navy being in a very inefficient state: it would, therefore, be difficult, on a first view of the subject, to account for an expenditure at all proportionate to the income arising from any apparent establishments for the security of the state; but as no details of the financial situation of the country, or the appropriation of the revenue, are ever published, the cause of the embarrassment under which the treasury labours can only be arrived at through the medium of piece-meal information. From the aggregate of such intelligence it is fair to conclude that the great item which disorganizes the financial wheel has its origin not only in the great accumulation of individuals about the court, but also in every department of the state. The King is a man of an easy and amiable disposition, and, from a wish to do something for every one, it is manifest, he has been led to sanction the increase of public situations to an extent beyond what is required. Few European courts, comparatively speaking, have so many persons attached to them as the Brazilian, consisting of fidalgos, ecclesiastics, and numerous attendants. Few governments have so prodigious a number employed in the discharge of public affairs, compared with those holding appointments here. In addition to the three hundred mules and horses at St. Christovao, there is an equal number in the stables at the city, not kept for the use of the royal family alone, but for the supply of fidalgos and the numerous individuals composing the retinue of the court; and, with all this expense, there is no appearance of splendour or elegance. The carriages are large unwieldly cabriolets, drawn by mules; and a fidalgo will be seen using the whip rigorously from his seat in the vehicle, although a postilion is mounted upon one of the mules, to whose management one would expect the whole matter to be left.

The extraordinary number of persons about the court and government are easily distinguished from their practice of wearing cocked hats. The ribands and orders at the button-holes of clerks, and the prodigious display of stars by fidalgos, merchants, and even shopkeepers, which their taste for public show induces them daily to exhibit, prove that these sort of decorations are procured with much facility in the capital.

Many of the claims upon the treasury are satisfied by bills upon the other captaincies, and few military or other persons, receiving appointments to distant places, do not take an order upon the treasury of that province for the liquidation of their arrears; and the provincial erarios are frequently in the same difficulties, in consequence of those demands. The treasury of Rio draws largely upon Bahia and Pernambuco. The latter has generally of late liquidated such demands to the amount of thirty contas of reas (about £9000) per month; but it is not unusual for English merchants receiving those securities to hold them for a long period before payment can be obtained.

The Brazilian government unquestionably might boast of being one of the richest in the world, if the immense capabilities of the country were administered with energy and spirit, and a due regard paid to the measures requisite to derive only a fair portion from them of the advantages they present. The revenue of the Brazil arises principally from the following imposts, viz. one-fifth upon all gold; a decimo upon all productions of the land, upon the annual value of all houses and shacaras, upon slaves, upon the exchange of proprietorship of slaves and property. A duty upon all articles passing the river Parahiba into the mining and interior districts, is collected at a register established for the purpose; and imposts are paid on passing various rivers with mules and horses. New negroes also pay an additional duty on entering the interior districts. All cattle entering the province of Rio de Janeiro pay a tax of nearly ten per cent.; the beef, besides, pays a duty of five reas per pound.

The customs are a very important branch of revenue, and may be estimated to produce at Rio from five to six hundred thousand pounds sterling per annum, of which the English merchants pay upwards of three hundred thousand pounds, and that body collectively do not contribute upon the whole much less than six hundred and fifty thousand pounds sterling annually to the Brazilian customs: fifteen per cent. is paid by them upon all imports, (which by-the-bye is at present very unfairly levied, but more of that hereafter,) and certain duties upon produce exported, which does not appear to be at all equal at the different maritime[84] towns. At Pernambuco fox instance, cotton pays six hundred reas per arobe. White sugar sixty reas per arobe, and brown sugar thirty reas, which, upon the average price of those articles when I left that city, was from six to ten per cent. And at Rio a duty of two per cent. at the market price was, in 1819, laid, generally, upon all produce exported. Coffee previously paid eighty reas per arobe, at a fixed price of two milreas and a half per arobe; and the price in 1819 being about four milreas and two hundred reas, the government collected the two per cent. upon the difference betwixt the two milreas and a half and the current value, which created some perplexity in levying the tax upon that article; and as eighty reas upon the fixed price is about two per cent. it would obviate this difficulty by repealing that law, and allowing the two per cent. to apply to the market price of coffee as well as other articles. The only advantage to be obtained by the government, by continuing this mode, would be in the event of coffee falling in value below two milreas and a half.

The government retain the diamond district of Serro Frio under their own management, and it is extraordinary that, during the last fifty years, it has been so conducted, that this important branch of revenue has been unproductive, and the establishment is considered to be embarrassed. The company, who had it by contract some years previous to its reverting to the government, acquired considerable wealth, partly, however, by intrigue, as their engagement bound them to a fixed number of negroes, and by bribery they introduced a great many more to work the grounds, consisting of twelve or fourteen hundred square miles.

Tijuco is the residence of the governor of the diamond works, which are, and have been some years, under the jurisdiction of Senhor Camara. The mode pursued of hiring all negroes, and making all purchases for the establishment upon the spot, will tend to preclude its ever becoming lucrative in the hands of the government. All persons who hold situations under the governor are allowed the privilege of supplying a certain number of negroes, and the eagerness, intrigue, and influence, exercised by all classes, to get their negroes employed, is a strong testimony of some ulterior object, beyond the mere wages which can be thus acquired, and no doubt exists that an illicit traffic in diamonds, through this medium, is carried on to an immense extent. The royal family have the selection of the finest diamonds; and it is said that the King possesses the best collection of gems in the world, worth upwards of two millions sterling. The diamonds are conveyed to Rio from Tijuco, a distance of [85]six hundred miles, under a strong military guard, and deposited in the treasury, till despatched for London, which is now their great mart. The gold mines are a much less profitable source of revenue than they were formerly.

An English agriculturist would regard with astonishment and regret the extensive tracts of land lying waste in the Brazil, and particularly in the vicinity of the capital and principal towns. On accompanying a party with Mr. M’Keand, from whom I experienced much attention, to Campinha, only eighteen miles from Rio, my surprise was more forcibly excited to see that very fine champaign and extensive valley almost in a wild state, and with its primitive and verdant woods. It is a plain, comprising twenty-five or thirty square miles, interspersed with gentle acclivities, and encircled by graceful and softly undulating eminences, presenting a tranquillizing contrast to the more lofty contexture of alpine objects before described. It is a most inviting situation, and its self-producing vegetation reflects shame upon the indolence it has contributed to create. One of the party joined me in a walk through the intervening woods, to a white house, finely situated upon an acclivity at the edge of the valley, and whose proprietor was a farmer of the sugar cane, and manufactured a fair quantity of rum. His son was a padre; and one end of the veranda formed a small chapel, garnished with tinsel trappings. It was Sunday, and the tocsin had already sounded the signal for mass, and was gradually assembling its votaries. Many of the females, as in Scotland, walked without shoes and stockings. A spring amongst some rocks, served as a purifying fountain, from whence they issued in silk stockings and embroidered shoes, ascended the hill into the veranda, sat down on the floor, beat their bosoms, and with other brief ceremonies concluded the devotional exercise. The padre sat down to gamble at cards, and some of the females danced not ungracefully with the castinets.

The waste lands I had seen on this and other excursions were satisfactorily accounted for, by the circumstances arising out of an attempt made by a friend of mine to purchase about twenty acres, situated upon the margin of the bay, four miles by water and eight by land from the city. Its cultivation had extended no further than the employment one solitary slave could give it; a few patches of mandioca were visible, and two rows of fruit trees, from the eminence on which a clay tenement stood, formed a pathway towards the bay. Nine hundred milreas (upwards of two hundred pounds) was the sum demanded for the everlasting possession of it, subject to the payment of a fine of five pounds per annum to a lady, whose assent to the transfer was required, and could be immediately obtained. My friend determined to be the purchaser, and called[86] upon the donna, to ascertain under what circumstances the five pounds were to be paid. She had no objections to his becoming the purchaser; but said, she thought the sum demanded was too much, and that she would send in a person to value the bemfeitoras; that is, what produce might be upon the ground, if the party wished to sell it. He found, therefore, in place of its being a free purchase, this lady had the full controul over the property, in case of the occupier wishing to dispose of it. He would have purchased her five pounds fine; that she would on no account part with, and further stated, that, for every two slaves more that he employed, he must pay five pounds more fine. The present holder was only to work it with two. The object of this would seem to be, that, in the event of its being disposed of, she would not have so many bemfeitoras to take. This gentleman would have expended a considerable sum, and have brought the land into a state of fine cultivation, if he could have retained it in his own possession, and that of his successors in perpetuity; but, if circumstances compelled him to part with it, this donna, by the Brazilian laws, would have had the preference; and two people, appointed for the purpose, would have been sent to value the produce standing upon the ground, without regard to improvement of times, or the amelioration of the soil; and, in consequence of this fine, she would have unfairly regained possession of the property for a mere bagatelle. This being the state of the case, my friend immediately declined any further treaty upon the subject. This donna and two sisters, all spinsters, possess a most extensive range of land, the whole under similar circumstances, and nearly in the same condition that it was left by the Indians. The parties occupying it live upon the produce of fruit sold at market, and a little mandioca. Under the present system of landed tenure, it will remain covered with wild grass till doomsday.

It is a great misfortune to the Brazil, that extensive tracts of land have been granted to donatories, who do not possess the means of cultivating one-hundredth part of it, but hold it on under the expectation that the gradual improvement of the country will render it daily more valuable, and the residence of the court here induces them to adhere more strongly to this impression: if they dispose of any part of it, they generally subject it to a fine, and the consequences attending such a contract will present a decided obstacle to the agricultural improvement of this country, at all proportioned to its extent or superabundant powers. Individuals who would devote their exertions and property to the culture of the soil, where this mode prevails, must be effectually deterred. The province of St. Paulo, which may be estimated to contain[87] one hundred and twenty thousand square miles, has no land devoluto, or ungranted, although one-thirtieth part of it is not in a state of cultivation. Land of course may be bought without a fine, but not generally. I had some conversation with a Portuguese gentleman, whose intention it was to obtain from his Majesty a grant of land to the extent of two or three square leagues, situated upon the northern bank of the river Parahiba; but he could not have placed more than two slaves upon it, and his avowed object was to retain it under the anticipation of futurity producing him an advantage in the sale of it, by portions or otherwise. The King is very liberal in granting land; and would, no doubt, afford encouragement for the agricultural improvement of the country, and even during my short stay at Rio he supplied some individuals with slaves for the purpose of cultivation; but the parsimonious feeling and apathy which prevails will operate against any speedy change or improvement of the system. In the donation of lands, it would be wise to attach a positive obligation to cultivate, or in a certain period either to revert to the crown or be publicly disposed of to those who are competent, and intend to work them; and further, to grant lands only in quantities proportioned to the means the individual receiving them may possess of bringing them into a state of culture; otherwise it would be infinitely better for the lands to remain with the crown, thereby precluding the practice of retailing them out with a fine.

That small quantities of land, when well cultivated, are, from the exuberance of their productions, adequate to the maintenance, and even enrichment of a family, where industry prevails, is amply demonstrated by the shacara of Bella Fonta, consisting only of eight or ten acres, which is planted with African grass, having a thick stem, and a long and broad lancet leaf, affording grass all the year for daily cutting. When the circuit is made, and the point first commenced at reached again, the grass is a second time in readiness, and so on. The amount of this supply affords food for four horses and two bullocks, besides a surplus conveyed to the city by the latter, producing twenty shillings per week. The fruit trees, which beautify the walks that intersect the grounds, together with a vegetable garden, yield beyond what is fully requisite for domestic consumption, upwards of two hundred pounds a year more. It may be said that this situation is near the capital and possesses advantages which land more distant could not; but that observation cannot apply to the uncultivated tracts stretching along both sides of the bay, enjoying even a greater facility of communication by water.

There does not appear to be any great spirit of emigration from other states[88] of Europe to the Brazil, for the purposes of agriculture; the principal hitherto are French, and I conversed with some of that nation recently arrived at Rio, with the view of forming coffee-plantations, but their expectations appeared to be much moderated, from the system they found existing. To go far into the interior, a man must be expected to sacrifice all idea of society, and to reside amongst a class of people who are strangers to the agreeable intercourses of civilized life, to which he may have been accustomed. The French are understood however to assimilate themselves to the habits and usages of the country with more facility than any other European emigrants. The remains of an unfortunate colony of Swiss emigrants arrived at Rio in the month of October, 1819, having sailed from Hamburgh in ships badly provided for their reception; nearly eighty died during the voyage, including their medical attendant. The King, previously to their departure from Europe, had given them promises of land and encouragement; and those who escaped the fever amounting to about two hundred persons of both sexes, were to proceed, soon after I left Rio, to Canto Gallo, a very fine district, where they would receive an ample donation of land to settle upon; and it is possible that, if the good intentions of the King are not frustrated by intrigue, they may form a valuable and flourishing colony. Their known habits of industry and morality would warrant the most favourable expectations from them. The Brazilians were condemning this measure very much, and intimated that the government might find plenty of their own nation to bestow those lands upon; but the wise policy of the King, in manifesting this encouragement towards these worthy Swiss emigrants, will be demonstrated in the example of industry which they will furnish by their own personal exertions for the improvement of their property. The Portuguese do not labour in the field, but every thing is done by slaves; and, if they were capable of investigating the state of their country, the inference would be, that they ought to hail the arrival of any class of individuals who would promote its improvement, rather than feel a mistaken jealousy of them. Surely there is abundant scope for all their exertions in a region containing nearly two millions of square miles, the sixtieth part of which is not in a proper state of cultivation. The mountains would universally produce coffee-trees; a Mr. Mawke and a Mr. Le Sange have planted them with success in the vicinity of the Tejuca, the cascades of which place present one of the most interesting objects near Rio.

I accompanied a party from Bella Fonta to visit them. We passed the Pedra Mountain and proceeded through that part of the valley called Grande et pequena Andrahi; the road was good, adorned with neat white houses, and[89] fences of lime bushes, orange trees, and flowering shrubs. The ascent leading between higher mountains was till lately very difficult of access, and the immense stones which rendered it so are distributed on both sides of the way. From its different winding points we were gratified with varied and pleasing views of the valley, the city, and the bay, the waters of which presented a silvery hue, caused by the rays of the sun just diffused above the horizon; the tout ensemble producing an animated and pictorial effect, in which the Pedra Mountain, resembling a hay-cock, and detached from all others, formed a singular feature. From the summit of the pass we commanded a view of the sea on the opposite side, and had now to descend by a narrow road of the utmost intricacy, covered with large stones, the horses at every step being liable to fall. It was, however, a most romantic and delightful way; and, although it could not boast of any edifice beyond clay huts, it partook of all the grandeur of the mountain scenery before mentioned, with even more of sublimity in the general and more versatile combination and expression of its objects. A continued charm was produced by a succession of waterfalls, forming a murmuring stream below, and hid in the depth of its descending recesses from the eye by embowering trees, which send forth the music of its feathered inhabitants, variegated in rich and beauteous plumage. Towards the bottom of the descent, stones of a prodigious size were dispersed all around, the rivulet had accumulated into a more considerable body of water, and a lake, situated in the plain below, terminating its course, presented a crystal mirror. We alighted at a farm-house, in the veranda of which the neighbouring population were assembled at mass, and proceeded on foot, by a rude pathway, along the skirts of a wood, at the end of which a narrow opening through the rocks astonished us with the view of those truly fine cascades. It was indeed a profound and perfect seclusion, and the whole may be deemed one of the chefs-d’œuvre of nature, its most fanciful and wondrous operations being here conspicuously displayed. The fine platform upon which the opening enters is nearly one hundred and fifty feet square, and forms the centre of two cascades, the waters passing by a perpendicular rugged precipice of one hundred feet in height, and, flowing in a stream across it, descend by another of almost equal altitude. A fugitive bishop and his followers, wandering over these unfrequented mountains, in the year 1711, when the French had taken possession of the city, accidentally discovered this recluse situation, so well adapted for their concealment. They cut out niches in the rocks for the reception of saints, mutilated portions of which still remained. A large stone table and a seat formed of the rock served as conveniences[90] for our repast, rendered doubly grateful by the noble peculiarity of the surrounding objects. We afterwards crossed the stream, and attempted to explore the precipitous ascent of the Gavea,

With cautious steps we retraced our way, and the feelings which the wild and romantic nature of the scene inspired were heightened by the murmuring waters of the hidden cascades. The district of Tejuco is extensive, and belongs principally to one individual, the Conde d’Asceca.

The commerce of the Brazil has increased much since it was thrown open, particularly in British manufactures, as they are now generally used throughout the whole territory. That this augmentation of British commercial intercourse with that country, as well as the aggregate sum of the whole since its commencement, has been essentially disadvantageous to the merchants and manufacturers of England, reducing it into one account, is unquestionable. Suppose the shipments of all goods since the first, to a certain period, where a line could be drawn, were placed on one side at prime cost, and the returns for those shipments in produce, bills, or specie, placed on the other side, (without taking into view the occasional great losses sustained by the sale of the produce,) it would then be too clearly demonstrated, and exhibit by the comparison an actual loss, amounting to a very serious sum. The testimony of one or two merchants connected with this trade since its origin would suffice to show the immense sacrifices British property experienced soon after this new channel induced such large speculations through its medium, as well as the continued sacrifices that have been made at different periods since. Even the years 1819 and 1820, and especially what has passed of the present one, have been distinguished by considerable losses; and, if further corroboration were required, the innumerable failures in England caused solely by this deterioration of property might be adduced. I speak of the trade as a whole, allowing that a great many persons have done well in it, and some made fortunes, particularly the commission-merchants; but I mean to submit, that the advantages those individuals have derived will not bear the test of comparison with the losses sustained by others. The Brazilians, particularly at Rio, have acquired no inconsiderable gains out of the unfortunate circumstances detailed; besides, they[91] enjoy advantages which they are little sensible of, in the supply of British capital, which, at the metropolis, where the longest credits are given, alone extends to more than one million sterling, arising from the too great liberality of the merchants resident there, in granting credits with goods. The number of English establishments of all kinds at Rio amounts to about sixty, and a spirit of competition consequently existing, the native merchants have had the address to turn it greatly to their advantage. For instance, if they could purchase goods from one house at four months credit, they would give the preference to another that would give them six, and so on; till credits have extended, in some instances, to nine, twelve, and even eighteen months, accumulating in their hands the prodigious sum mentioned, and which the Brazilian laws induce some few to take the unfair advantage of retaining as long as they can, and in some cases altogether. English property, in this state of jeopardy, may be computed at two hundred thousand pounds, resulting from the tedious and imperfect mode of judicature. A Portuguese dealer, having exhausted the patience of the English merchant, the latter obtains a summons from the English judge, Senhor Garces, for the former to appear before him within three audiences, (he holds two a week,) when it is at the option of the plaintiff, whether the defendant is put upon his oath or not. If he is put upon his juramente d’alma, and then swears he owes nothing, the cause must finally end; but if the plaintiff will not allow him to swear, he then probably denies altogether owing the money, or admits the account, but says he cannot at present pay, which produces the same delay. The plaintiff then cites him for a libello, and proceeds to prove the fairness of his demand, which the defendant opposes by counter declarations. Up to this point twelve months may be calculated as already consumed. The judge, convinced by the clear evidence of the plaintiff, gives a despatch in his favour, which the other immediately embargos, when a plea for additional time is set up, under the pretence of adducing some other evidence; and, after a further investigation, the judge gives a similar despatch to the first, which is a second time embargoed, and the cause is then removed to the Court of Relaçam, consisting of six or seven judges, three of whom must always attend. Similar delays occur in this court, when the decision of the English judge conservator is confirmed, which, however, is not final; the defendant can carry the case before the Conseil de Fazendes, a supreme authority, consisting of many members, from whose decision there is no appeal. The plaintiff, whose verdict gives him a power over the property only of the defendant, and not over his person, proceeds to take possession of[92] his premises and effects, when, in some cases, I have been informed, he discovers that another person holds them, in virtue of a purchase which he pretends to have made, although the defendant is probably acting in the business as before. The plaintiff, in order to prove this fictitious sale, contemplates a delay of several years in another law process; he therefore submits to any terms that may be offered him.

An instance was related to me of a Brazilian who owed an English house eleven hundred pounds, and, being pressed for a settlement, he disputed the delivery of a quantity of crockery-ware, amounting to nine hundred pounds, but which, from their great bulk, and the circumstances attending his receipt of them, afforded ample proof of the justness of the charge. In the course of the law-process he demanded the production of the plaintiff’s books, in which case every leaf of each book is stamped, and pays a duty to government. The books afforded the clearest testimony of the sale and delivery. The defendant then put in a document, suggesting that the plaintiff might have two sets of books, and this might be a false one; upon this the defendant was ordered to produce his own books, for it is usual for this class of Brazilian dealers to keep a receiving-book, in which all goods are entered when delivered at their shops. He however evaded this order, by replying, that he kept no books, but wrote the receipt of all goods upon the back of the merchants’ invoices, and that he had never received the one in question. This subterfuge produced an immediate despatch in favour of the plaintiff, which the defendant may perhaps yet frustrate, by the dishonest proceedings mentioned. Hence, the laws appear to be rather a temptation to fraud than a preventive.

The appointment of an English judge conservator, who is indeed a respectable man, and disposed to act with promptitude and justice, appears to be perfectly nugatory in cases of importance; and, although his decisions may have some influence with the other courts, they are by no means final or effectual; and the same delay takes place, under such circumstances as have been described, as if this office did not exist. The privilege of having a judge, whose salary of £500 a year is paid out of the contribution fund, would appear to be conceded to the English, without its producing any adequate advantage to them.

From the universal taste for British manufactures, the Brazil presents a great and decidedly increasing field for their consumption; and, although the merchants cannot get rid of the tedious practice in the judicial proceedings, they may, by a system of caution, in some instances, avoid it; and they have already[93] adopted the plan of taking bills from the Portuguese on delivery of goods, which is, at all events, an acknowledgement of the debt. It is still farther to be wished that the increasing demand for English goods would determine the merchants not to part with their commodities under the real value. Competition is, unfortunately, a great obstacle to any unanimity amongst them in this respect, otherwise the Brazilians would have no alternative but to take their merchandise at any fair profitable price that might be determined upon. At present the importations of British goods annually to the Brazil may be estimated at near three millions sterling, one half of which may be computed to arrive at Rio, from whence returns are made in bills, coffee, sugar, hides, &c. and some cotton. Orders are sent to Bahia, Pernambuco, and Maranham, to ship some part of the return, principally in that article, from thence, for which they send specie, or bills upon the treasuries of those places, received from the government for stores supplied. At present two or three English houses at Rio de Janeiro furnish the government with the great bulk of its military and naval stores; but, at different periods, demands resulting from this connexion have met with serious delays in the liquidation, and in cases where the treasury has been under positive engagements by bills, great inconvenience has been sustained, and the parties compelled at last to wait personally upon the King, who has given directions for the payment of those overstanding securities.

The British merchants also labour under some inconvenience, originating in the misconstruction of or non-compliance with the actual intent of the convention for regulating the levying of the fifteen per cent. duty upon that portion of English goods not embraced by the pauta, and which latter instrument is additionally and injuriously partial in its operations, not being a fair standard by which the real value of the article the duty is to be paid upon can be designated. The avowed object between the two governments in this arrangement is, that the British merchant shall pay a duty of fifteen per cent. upon the fair value of the thing imported; but the pauta enumerates a fixed value upon certain articles, without reference to the fluctuation of price, and the tide having uniformly of late years flowed downwards in this respect, goods have experienced a diminution from the average valuation of that instrument, consequently, the duty may amount to twenty-five or thirty per cent. in place of fifteen, upon their actual worth. But this is not the only objection to it as an inefficient medium for levying the duties. The pauta determines the value of certain goods at one, two, or three prices,[94] at the same time that a great variety of qualities exist in the same commodity, which gradations of value are yearly increasing, by the introduction of mechanical power and other improvements into our manufactures. Some printed cottons are worth upwards of two shillings per yard, others nine-pence or one shilling, with intermediate qualities. Cambric muslins bear greater disproportions of quality, yet the duties are exacted upon goods of this kind, worth one shilling per yard, at the same rate as those bearing twice the value. At Rio, where more fine goods are used, they pay the same duty as the merchants of Bahia and Pernambuco, where more of the lower quality of the same articles are imported; and, in consequence, the merchants of the latter place have been entirely precluded, during the last eighteen months, from despatching through the custom-house printed cottons and muslins of a low price, as the valuation they hold in the pauta would have made the duty forty per cent. upon their real worth in lieu of fifteen per cent. Mr. Lempriere, the consul of Pernambuco, did not conceive it his duty to interfere in the matter; but it would appear that the captain-general and the judge of the custom-house, were either influenced by the diminution of customs collected, or by the representations of the merchants themselves, to accede to an arbitration. Messrs. Cockshott, Mitchel, and Todd, three very competent and highly-respectable merchants, were selected, on the part of the English, to meet three Portuguese merchants; and, in the month of January, 1820, during my stay at Pernambuco, the matter was, for the time being, amicably adjusted; but the nature of the pauta will ever present great difficulties, and can never embrace the intended equitable duty upon the imports. The same objections have been raised at Bahia and other places. The arrangement above alluded to did not long continue in operation, in consequence of not receiving the sanction of the Brazilian government. The difficulty is now greatly augmented by the continued depression in British manufactures. Printed cottons, rated in the pauta at seven milreas four hundred reas each piece, and upon which valuation the duty of fifteen per cent. must be paid, were not worth more than from three milreas two hundred reas to three milreas six hundred reas, in the Pernambuco market at the close of 1820. This produces a result so manifestly against the British merchant, that it must ultimately prove ruinous to him. Memorials have been presented to the Hon. Mr. Thornton, relative to these injurious consequences of the pauta, and the British merchants connected with the Brazil are in expectation that the attention of their government will be drawn to this[95] important subject, when its wise and enlightened policy will no doubt obtain the desired relief.

There can be but one opinion that the convention, if it applied to imports generally, is the only just principle upon which this matter should rest, provided it were divested of the grievances just alluded to; for the accomplishment of which, the merchants of Bahia have been the first to present a memorial to the Brazilian court. It was understood, before I left Rio, that the measures which had been practised for the benefit of individuals, and not of the government, were ordered to be discontinued by his Majesty, as contrary to the letter and spirit of the convention. Having, however, referred to those practices, it may not be irrelevant to state one instance out of many that were communicated to me by the merchants at Rio de Janeiro. The obligations of the convention are, that the merchant shall give in an attested invoice of the value of the article, and if the government do not consider it a fair one, they have the option of taking the goods by paying ten per cent. upon the price. A merchant received a quantity of goods, which, had he despatched at the cost price, he would have sustained a serious loss, in consequence of the low ebb at which they then stood. In the course of twelve months, a demand arose for the article, and he gave in an invoice at the cost price to pay the duties upon. The administratador of the custom-house finding, (no doubt from his agents,) that he could obtain a good profit, informed the merchant that the ten per cent. in addition to the price given in, would be paid, and the goods kept; consequently the merchant was deprived of any advantage he might have received from running the risk of retaining the goods for so long a time, without mentioning the loss of interest; besides, in those cases it has happened, that the goods have been previously sold by sample to a dealer, who insists upon their delivery, or a pecuniary allowance. The merchant above-mentioned ascertained that the goods were actually despatched through the custom-house by the very invoice he presented, and the duty paid only upon the value he gave in; demonstrating that the government derived no benefit from those proceedings, but that they were the result of intrigue among inferior officers, for their individual gain. I cannot conclude this important subject, without strongly recommending to the British government the expediency of effecting, if possible, a change in the levying the duty of fifteen per cent. as far as the pauta applies, for it is obvious that an arrangement upon the principle of the convention can alone embrace the infinite gradations of value peculiar to every denomination of British manufactures sent to the Brazil.

It may be here observed, that in all serious difficulties the English prefer going direct to the King, rather than encounter the different ramifications of intrigue publicly known to exist in many departments of the state; and in all those applications his Majesty concedes a ready hearing; and, as far as depends upon himself, the English have, indeed, every reason to acknowledge his readiness to accede to all justly founded requests.

The custom-house door at Rio de Janeiro, is the rendezvous of the merchants, hitherto, not having the accommodation of an exchange. An edifice, however, was commenced by the government, upon a prainha, or small beach, behind the custom-house, and it was anticipated that this praca do commercio, of which I obtained a plan from the architect, would be completed early in the year 1820.

I was present when the foundation-stone of the first protestant church, in South America, was laid at Rio de Janeiro on the 12th of August, 1819. It is for the use of the English, who at present assemble in a room for divine service: the site is in the Rua dos Borbanes, near the convent of Ajuda, and adjoining the house of the Spanish Ambassador. Mr. Stevenson, the treasurer, and the committee for the management of the contribution fund, attended, together with a great portion of the resident English merchants, when a very animated and appropriate address was delivered by the Rev. Mr. Crane. Some coins of Great Britain, a glass bottle securely sealed up, and containing two or three English newspapers of the latest date, (14th of June,) a gazette of Rio de Janeiro, and a navy list, were deposited in the stone. This main stone was dedicated to St. George and St. John, in honour of the sovereigns of England and Brazil. Mr. Johnson, before-mentioned, is the architect, and a Portuguese the builder. Judging from the plan, the structure will be neat, and calculated to contain about five hundred persons, and many more if galleries are added at any subsequent period. The Spanish Ambassador, who was looking out of a window during the ceremony, had made an offer of part of the ground upon which his stables stood, it being deemed necessary to complete the ground-work, which offer was considered highly honourable to him and no obstacle was foreseen in forwarding this good work with all possible despatch. Three months afterwards, however, nothing further had been done, in consequence, I have heard, of the Portuguese dono of the ambassador’s premises, objecting to the transfer of the small portion of ground required, unless he was paid some exorbitant sum. I understand, that an application [97]is to be made, through the medium of the Hon. Mr. Thornton, to the King upon the subject.

Macacu, which has a church dedicated to St. Antonio, and a convent of lazy Franciscans, is pretty considerable, and was created a town by King Peter II. in 1697. It is situated upon elevated ground, on the left margin of the river of the same name, a little above the embouchure of the Guapiassu, and is about three leagues distant, in a direct line from the bay, and almost ten by the course of the river. Since the year 1808, this place has been the residence of a Juiz de Fora, whose jurisdiction also extends to the town of Mage. The population of Macacu, including its district, amounts to nine thousand souls.

Villa Nova, (de St. Joze d’ el Rey,) created a town in 1772, is two leagues to the south-west of Macacu, and a mile distant from the same river. St. Barnabe was its original name when a village, and its first inhabitants were Indians, with whose descendants a great many Portuguese are now intermixed. Those Indians are celebrated for making mats; a contiguous piece of ground supplying them with abundant materials.

About four miles to the eastward, is the parish of St. Joao d’Itaborahy, in a situation something elevated, with a fine aspect, and near the right bank of the river Vargé, which here takes the name of this parish, more commonly designated by the appellation of Tapacora. Mandioca, feijao, and sugar, are the principal productions, besides a small portion of rice, Indian-corn, and coffee.

The parish of Our Lady of Conceiçao[15] is six leagues east from Macacu, approximating the left margin of the small river Bonito; and the inhabitants are farmers of mandioca, feijao, Indian corn, sugar, and some rice.

Two leagues to the north-east of Macacu, betwixt the two small rivers of Pinto and Entulho, is situated the parish of Santissima Trinidade, (Holy Trinity,) in a fertile country, the productions of which are, notwithstanding, confined to the necessaries of life.

The parish of Tamby occupies an open country, near the left bank of the river Aldeia, about two miles south of Macacu, with a church of Our Lady of Desterro. About a mile to the east of the parish of Tamby, and within its district, is situated the port of Caixas, with a hermitage of Our Lady of Conceiçao, upon the right bank of the Aldeia not far from its confluence with the Macacu. This is the grand point from whence all the productions of the district of Tapacora,[98] and the surrounding parishes, are embarked in boats for the capital, and more sugar is sent from hence than from all the other ports in the bay.

About two leagues to the south-east of Villa Nova, and not far from the bay, is the parish of St. Gonçalo d’Amarante, on the right bank of the small river of that name. Its dwellers produce a large quantity of farinha, feijao, and Indian corn, with the superabundance of which, as well as that of coffee, sugar, and casaçha, much specie is introduced into the district.

Mage, a middling town, with the title of countship, and in an agreeable situation upon the left bank of the river from which it derives its name, has some commerce, and a handsome parish-church of Our Lady of Piedade. It is about three leagues west of Macacu and one from the bay; and the river, which has here a wooden bridge, supplies the town with fish. In boats and craft of considerable burden, a large quantity of farinha, Indian corn, feijao, some sugar, rice, and a little coffee, are from thence exported. This place was erected into a town in the year 1789. An English gentleman has a country house near Mage, where parties occasionally go for the purpose of shooting, particularly snipes, which abound in the neighbouring morasses.

Four miles to the north-east of Mage, near the right bank of the river Guapymirim, is the parish of Ajuda, the soil of which is remarkably fertile, the inhabitants preferring the culture of mandioca, rice, and coffee, to the sugar-cane: they also export a great deal of wood.

Two leagues to the west of Mage, is the parish of St. Nicolau, upon the right margin of the Suruhy, consisting of a mountainous district of ten miles from north to south, and three in width, being partly planted with mandioca, rice, and coffee, but principally with the banana fruit, which introduces annually seventy thousand crusades, arising, it is said, from the industry of the whites, who exceed the number of negroes, but more likely from the properties of the soil and climate.

One league to the south-east of the port of Estrella is situated the parish of Our Lady of Guia, upon the borders of the bay, near the mouth of the small river of Pacobahyba, from whence are embarked various necessaries of life, its principal productions.

About four miles to the north-east of the port of Estrella is the parish of Our Lady of Piedade d’Inhumirim, situated at the angle of the confluence of the river of that name with the small river Cruz. Its parishioners are farmers of Indian corn and mandioca, which prosper abundantly. In this district is situated Mandioca estate, belonging to G. Langsdorff, Esq. the Russian[99] consul-general, a delightful situation, and which he became possessed of in consequence of his pursuits as a naturalist leading him frequently into that part of the country. To accommodate a person, from whom he had received some civilities, with a certain portion of land to form a rancho, for the accommodation of mules and their drivers coming from the mines, he was induced to purchase the whole tract of land, in the possession of one individual, without any fine, and, from its peculiar adaptation to the produce of mandioca, he gave it that name. He paid under one thousand pounds for it, and its extent, which is estimated at ten square miles, he has not yet explored. He has already planted twenty thousand coffee-trees upon it, and the produce of mandioca in 1819 yielded near one thousand sacks of farinha, worth from eight to ten shillings per sack. The King has granted him the important privilege of allowing the neighbouring people, working upon his estate, an exemption from the militia duty, which, of course, induces a great many to offer their services upon moderate terms; so that, with the addition of about sixty slaves working upon it, the property is rapidly improving. He is building a house upon the estate. Mr. Langsdorff is respectably known to the literary world by the publication of his voyages. His pursuit in the obtainment of objects in natural history has been indefatigable, and in butterflies alone he has accumulated sixteen hundred different kinds.[16]

Some leagues from hence, upon the track leading to the mining districts, is situated the extensive establishment of Padre Corre, for shoeing mules, previously to their proceeding into the interior districts. In this trade the padre has accumulated a considerable sum: he grows a prodigious quantity of the finest peaches, and has the character of being exceedingly hospitable to strangers.

A league to the south-east of the port of Estrella is situated the parish of Our Lady of Pilar, upon the left bank of the river from which it derives its name, producing mandioca, Indian corn, rice, and vegetables, for which the soil is well adapted.

St. Maria of Marica was created a town by a law of the 26th May, 1814, with a civil jurisdiction, administered by two ordinary judges, (juizes ordinarios,) one of orphans, three magistrates, (vereadores,) an alcayde, a procurator of council, and two almotaces, or regulators of the market. It is small, but well situated, near the mouth of the little river Itapitiu, upon the margin of the lake from which it is named, and which well supplies it with fish. The church here, of Our Lady of Amparo, is the best in the province, with the exception of some in the metropolis, from whence it is distant about twenty-five miles to the eastward, and near thirty west of Cape Frio. The inhabitants cultivate sugar, mandioca, feijao, Indian corn, and some coffee.

The district of Cape Frio, named from the promontory where the coast changes its direction, is limited on the north, by the river Maccahé, which separates it from the district of Goytacazes, is washed on the east and south by the ocean, and comprises twelve leagues of territory, from north to south, and ten in the widest part from east to west. The country is generally uneven, and the valleys and plains, situated between mountains more or less elevated, are extremely deficient in good water. It produces mandioca, Indian corn, rice, vegetables, and sugar. Cattle, inconsiderable in number, are of a small size. Banana and orange trees, so abundant in various parts of the province, are here exceedingly rare, owing to the negligence of the inhabitants. The produce of indigo, which was formerly considerable, is at present trifling, although this district is well adapted for it. Cochineal was once an important branch of commerce; but the avaricious propensity of several individuals induced them to adulterate it by the addition of farinha. The government took a certain quantity of it, and paid the best price: but, discovering the fraud, declined having any more of it. The merchants of the capital followed this example, and at last the cultivation of it was totally abandoned. To the productions of the district already mentioned must be added, that of timber, which, with management and industry, would form one of the most lucrative and important. The woods are very extensive, abounding in an innumerable variety of trees, well adapted for the purposes of building, cabinet work, &c. Three qualities of the Brazil wood are met with here, of which that denominated mirim is esteemed the best. The rivers St. Joao and Maccahé afford navigation for conveying those fine timbers to the coast. Besides the two last-mentioned rivers, there is the Una, which enters the ocean seven miles south of the first. In front of its embouchure is situated the small island of Branca.

The principal lakes in this district are the Araruama and the Sequarema; the first, twenty miles long, and eight at the widest part, is separated from the ocean by a bank in many parts of small elevation, and empties itself at the eastern extremity, by a channel, which at the mouth is fifty yards in width. Notwithstanding its waters are supplied by various rivers, they have a saline flavour, in consequence of its communication with the sea. It abounds with a variety of fish, and in some situations is many fathoms in depth, in others quite shallow. Various small bays on the southern side are formed by headlands, in which the operations of nature furnish considerable quantities of salt, almost without human aid. Nine places may be reckoned which are apparently destined by Providence for the production of this indispensable article; the whole is not however formed by the sea water, but by the aqueous flow of rain through the saltpetre or saline particles with which the earth is impregnated, subsequently acquiring the consistency of marine water, and which arrives at its ultimate crystalization, by the influential rays of the sun. The largest of the rivers which the lake Araruama receives are the Francisco Leite, which enters it at the western extremity, and the Mataruna, which is crossed by a bridge, and disembogues about four miles to the east of the other; between those streams, and at a short distance from the lake, is situated the parish of St. Sebastian, whose inhabitants are cultivators of mandioca, rice, feijao, a little sugar, and derive some profit from fishing.

The lake Sequarema, in the vicinity of Ponta Negra, is six miles long from east to west, and three at the widest part; the water is salt, abounding with fish, and separated from the sea by a narrow tract of land. During the rainy season, when it inundates the adjacent country, in consequence of the superabundance of waters brought by the small streams, the dwellers near it open a channel to the ocean from its eastern extremity, which is soon filled up again, on the return of dry weather, by the flowing of the sea. The river Tinguy, which runs into its most northern bay, is the principal one that it receives. Upon the neck of land which divides it from the ocean, a parish has originated, called Our Lady of Nazareth, whose parishioners grow Indian corn, mandioca, and feijao, and are fishermen, which occupation constitutes their chief gain.

Between the lake Sequarema, and the Cururupina, is situated the Jacuné, which is near three miles in length, and of proportionable width.

The lake Jacarépua lies between the Sequarema and Araruama, comprising two miles of length, and something less in width. The lake Vermelha, about the same size, is near the western extremity of the Araruama, and although it has no communication with the sea, its waters are saline.

The lake Boacica, situated two leagues to the south of the river Maccahé, and approximating the ocean, is about three miles long, and half a mile at the greatest width, has not much depth, is impregnated with salt, and abounds with fish, which enter it from the sea by the channel formed for the egress of its waters at the period of the floods. It is the receptacle of the river from which it derives its name; also, of the Serraria, the Mutum, the Riacho d’Alagoa, and the Riachinho.

The lake of Juthurnuahibi, two miles in diameter, and one to seven fathoms in depth, receives the rivers Bucasca and Capibary; has an outlet into the ocean, which is winding, deep, navigable, and taking the name of the first river, is seven leagues distant, and only three in a direct line from the lake.

Cape Frio, called a city, although not so large as a moderate town, is divided into two parts, by an interval of half a mile, both being without regularity, and situated upon the southern margin of the eastern extremity of the lake Araruama. The principal portion has a church of Our Lady of Assumption, a hermitage of St. Bento, and a Franciscan monastery. The chapel of Our Lady of Cuia crowns the summit of a rock, from whence is beheld a great extent of sea and land. The smaller portion of the city, denominated Passagem, defended by the fort of St. Mattheus, has another hermitage of St. Benedicto. This city has royal masters of the primitive letters and Latin. The inhabitants eagerly follow the pursuit of fishing, their principal and most lucrative occupation; fish being their common diet and their chief exportation. It was taken in the year 1615, when Portugal was under the dominion of Philip II.; and when, like many other places, it took the title of city, upon the occasion of some Rotterdam pirates being repulsed, who wished to establish themselves there, for the purpose of exporting dye-wood. Here is a Juiz de Fora, whose power extends to the town of Maccahé. Fevers are the prevailing disease of the country.

St. Joam de Maccahé, situated upon both banks of the river from which it takes its name, was created a town in 1814, and has a church called Santa Anna. The inhabitants, who are fishermen, produce some Indian corn, rice, feijao, mandioca, and sugar, but their principal object of trade is timber. The parish of St. Joam, at the embouchure of the river of the same name, is well situated to render it in time a considerable town. Timber forms the riches of its inhabitants, who also export a variety of the necessaries of life.

The district of Goytacazes, comprising twenty-eight leagues of coast, bounded on the south by the river Maccahé, and on the north by the Cabapuana, originally formed the capitania of St. Thomé, and so denominated from the[103] contiguous cape. Pedro de Goes, who had frequented the Brazil for ten years, was its first donatory; and although, the period of this donation is not recorded, it was most probably about the year 1537, as the first allusion to him is in the year 1527, when he transported some Indians from St. Vincente to Portugal. This fidalgo established himself and the colonists who accompanied him, upon the banks of the river Parahiba, where they lived in amity with the Indians two years, succeeded by five of inveterate warfare, in which the aborigines displayed such bravery and determined resistance, particularly the Goytacazes, (the name of which tribe the district retains,) that Goes was compelled to retire to the capitania of Espirito Santo, where the donatory Coutinho was already established. From thence he returned to Lisbon, and, in the year 1549, accompanied Thomé de Souza to Bahia; but neither himself nor successors were fortunate in endeavouring to colonize the capitania of St. Thomé, which was in the possession of three different nations, the Puris, Guarus, and Goytacazas; the latter were the most numerous, and divided into three hordes, the Goytaza Guassu, Goytacaza Moppy, and Goytacaza Jacorito, the avowed enemies of each other. It is affirmed, that the Guarus comprised various nations, one of which, the Sacarus, still exists in the Organ Mountains.

Gil de Goes was its third donatory, at the time of its devolvement to the crown. King Peter II. granted it to Viscount d’Asseca in the year 1674; but, in consequence of the mal-administration of his successors producing considerable dissatisfaction, and various revolts amongst the colonists, King Joseph was induced, by commutation, to incorporate it with the crown lands; and Francisco de Sales, ouvidor of Espirito Santo, took possession of it, in the year 1752, in the name of his sovereign, to the great joy of the inhabitants.

From the river Parahiba, northward, a cordillera runs parallel with, and at no great distance from the coast; the intervening space, denominated Cacimbas, is mountainous, and in parts sterile, and ill adapted to agricultural purposes. From the Parahiba to the Maccahé, the whole country presents campinhas, or continued plains, with some small woods, called capoes, and is irrigated by various streams.

The soil is appropriated to the produce of cocoa, coffee, indigo, and rice; wheat might be cultivated with advantage. Mandioca grows best in the southern parts of the district, and sugar is cultivated in the proximity of the rivers Parahiba and Muriahe, to a very considerable extent. The number of sugar works in this district, in the year 1801, amounted to two hundred and eighty, of which ninety were very large. Since that period they have increased rapidly, and the sugars produced upon the margins of those rivers are esteemed[104] the best in the Brazil, usually known by the denomination of Campos sugars. Indian corn, feijao, mandioca flour, tobacco, and cotton, are produced only in sufficient quantity for the consumption of the district. All the species of domestic animals are bred, none of them, however, are remarkable for their fecundity. Cattle are not in sufficient number for the consumption of the population, and the working of sugar engenhos. The mules are not so large as those of Rio Grande, and Curitiba, but are superior in strength. Goats and sheep degenerate here. Hogs are not numerous, neither is the pork good. The north and south-west winds generally prevail, and scarcely a day passes, that the atmosphere is not refreshed with a strong breeze from one of these quarters. Part of the timber exported by the river Maccahé, is derived from the woods of this district, which afford a variety of medicinal plants.

Rivers and Lakes.—We have already described the Parahiba, which is the chief river of this district, and traverses it from west to east.

The river Muriahe, to which is attributed forty miles of course in a direct line, rises in the serra of Pico, in the territory of the Puri Indians, takes a winding direction to the south-east, until it enters the Parahiba, is navigable for the space of twenty-five miles, and has a fall, where the canoes are dragged over land. When the cultivation of its fertile margins first commenced, (at this day abounding with sugar-works,) its waters were so pestilential, that many who drank of them were attacked with malignant fevers, which either terminated their days, or left them through life pallid and diseased. Even the necessaries of life, which grew upon the lands inundated by its floods, were pestiferous. Its largest confluent is denominated the Rio Morto, or Dead River, in consequence of having a very tranquil current, the waters of which, are muddy, from its origin in a morass. The margins of the Muriahe produce a poisonous cipo plant, with long and flexible shoots, called timbo, or tingui, and a tree denominated guaratimbo, the infectious qualities of which are attributed to the malignancy of its waters.

The river Maccabu originates in the skirt of the Serra Salvador, little removed from the source of the before-mentioned river St. Pedro. It is serpentine, tranquil, flows principally through a swampy country to the north-east, discharges itself into the lake Feia, and is navigable, without falls, pretty nearly to its origin.

The river Imbe, which rises at the base of the above serra, seven miles from the head of the Maccabu, and runs for a considerable space parallel with it, receives near its commencement, by the left bank, three streams, called the Three Rivers of the North, (which have their origin in the situation of Tres Picos,[105] where there is gold,) and traverses the lake of Cima, from whence it flows to the lake Feia, with the name of Ururahi. The bed is winding and the current slow. Large canoes advance up without obstacle, almost to its heads.

The above-mentioned Ururahi, (the outlet to the lake of Cima,) the margins of which abound with plantations of the sugar-cane and mandioca, describes a semicircle to the north, approaching the Parahiba, with which an advantageous communication might be opened, by cutting a canal across a plain, not exceeding four miles in width.

The lake Feia consists of two unequal parts, united by a narrow channel. The one lies to the north, near twenty miles in length from east to west, and upwards of twelve in width; the other to the south, sixteen miles in length, and only two in width. It is an interesting lake, abounds with fish, and so inconsiderable in depth, that canoes can only proceed by certain channels. The water is fresh and wholesome. It has within its precincts a considerable peninsula, upon the isthmus of which is situated the church of the parish of the Lady of Remedios, and presenting a delightful aspect. The margins of this lake are marshy, and it discharges itself by various channels, which, describing extensive circuits, form many islands, and without which, none of those channels would have made their way to the ocean, in consequence of an extensive, high, and solid sand-bank, formed by the sea. All the channels re-unite at divers points, and form another lake, many leagues in length, with the width of a spacious river, stretching, for its whole extent, along the said sand-bank; across a certain part of which it opens annually an outlet, that presents the appearance of a considerable and furious river, called Furado, at the time the internal receptacles are overflown. The southern or principal of these channels is called Iguassu, or the river Castanheta. This district might be cleared from water, by the introduction of some hydraulic machines, (as in some parts of Lincolnshire), when the grounds would afford pasturage, and become susceptible of cultivation at all times.

Three leagues to the north of the river Maccahé, is situated the lake Carapebas, about four miles in length from east to west, of unequal and inconsiderable width, separated from the ocean by a sand-bank, which it breaks down in the rainy season, in some parts, for the egress of the waters. It is well stored with a variety of fish. Near the right margin of the Parahiba, between the towns of St. Salvador, and St. Joam, are the two Jahi lakes; also the Sequarema; the Campelo, upon the north side of the Parahiba, almost in front of the town of St. Joam; and the Pedras, which is a deep lake, having[106] its channel of discharge denominated the Corrego do Jacare, between the town of St. Salvador and the mouth of the river Muriahe. Lake Cima is five miles long, and more than sixteen hundred fathoms at its greatest width, comprehending the gulf called Pernambuca.

The fine campos, or plains, of this district would certainly become the Elysium of Brazil, if its territory, rich in soil, were divided into certain portions and delivered to a people animated with a spirit of agricultural improvement. But the same unfortunate circumstances which we have previously described to exist in the donation of lands, concur, unhappily, to place those campos, at least the greater part, in the hands of three proprietors; namely, the Benedictine monastery of Rio de Janeiro, the purchaser of the ex-Jesuitical possessions, and a titular.

St. Salvador, or Campos, is a large, populous, and flourishing town, situated upon a plain on the right margin of the Parahiba, eighteen miles distant from the ocean, and four below the mouth of the Muriahe. Besides the mother church, it has a house of misericordia, three hermitages dedicated to the Lady of Rosario, Boa Morte, and Lapa; also two Terceira orders of St. Francisco and Carmo, and a hospital. The youth of this place are instructed by persons having the usual high sounding titles of royal professors of the primitive letters and Latin. Justice is administered by a head magistrate, denominated a Juiz de Fora,[17] (a judge without.) An account recently taken of the population of this town states it to contain eleven hundred and fifty families, which may be fairly computed to comprise twelve thousand souls.

The town of St. Joam da Parahiba derives the name from its church and the river upon which it is situated, and is distant about two miles from the sea, in front of the extremity of a small island. Sugar constitutes the riches of its inhabitants, who do not exceed fifteen hundred; and it is the port from whence the principal produce of the Campos, consisting of that article, is shipped in coasting vessels to the capital.

Eight miles up the Maccahé is situated the parish of the Lady of Neves, which originated in an establishment of a tribe of Garulho Indians, but now almost extinct, and succeeded by whites, who fell timber and are farmers of the same necessaries of life as their predecessors.

Upon the Parahiba, between the town of St. Salvador and the mouth of the river Muriahe, the parish of St. Antonio occupies a delightful situation. It was founded for the habitation of a horde of Indian Garulhos, who have insensibly disappeared. Its district is extensive, and abounds with sugar-works.

Thirty miles above the town of St. Salvador, and two below the last fall of the Parahiba, the aldeia or village of St. Fidelis, is agreeably and secludedly situated. It is an Indian parish, and was founded by three padres, one of whom, two years ago, was still living, and had the whole management of this establishment. A French gentleman, who was shipwrecked at the mouth of the Parahiba, proceeded through the Campos as far as this Indian village. He informed me, that, on leaving the plains cultivated with the plantations of the sugar-cane, he had to traverse a thick wood, rendered more difficult to penetrate by the wild grass and almost impervious underwood at the bottom of the higher trees. After a laborious march of five hours, this gentleman reached the aldeia, which consisted of a stone church, decorated with saints and much finery. It was fronted by the padre’s house at no great distance; both sides of this space were occupied by the huts of the Indians, over whom, from the imposing show of religious ceremony, and occasional personal chastisement, the padre had acquired a perfect command. Part of the Indians were employed in his house for domestic purposes; others in the cultivation of the necessaries of life; some were occupied in fishing in the Parahiba; and others, of proved fidelity, in shooting game in the surrounding woods; and thus subsistence was procured for the establishment. The domestic arrangement, however, of this priest was truly miserable.

The savage Indians frequently carry off by force some of their Christianized brethren, and display an inveterate antipathy to civilization. The tribes on the northern bank of the Parahiba, bordering upon the Portuguese establishments, are considered much more cruel than those on the southern, and have afforded various and recent proofs of cannibalism. On some occasions they lie in ambush near pathways, and, with their arrows, pierce the stranger to the heart, and feast upon his body. A proprietor of a sugar-work was carried off about three years ago, and devoured by them; and since that time three or four negroes have shared the same fate. They are addicted to plunder, and commit at times great devastation amongst the sugar-plantations, advancing in bodies of fifty or sixty from the woods, and cutting down the canes, which they carry off to their retreats. They are great cowards; and, on those appointed to keep watch giving the alarm of the approach of a single individual, they fly precipitately.[108] They are exceedingly alarmed at the report of a gun. Two soldiers, equipped with jackets, stuffed with cotton and quilted, (which are almost impenetrable to the arrows of the Indian,) and with muskets, very recently proceeded from Villa Rica, (in Minas Geraes,) and penetrated as far as this district, through the woods covering the fertile territory on both banks of the Parahiba, to the possession of which the ounce assumes a right as well as the savage.

Of the ancient tribes the Puris is the principal one now remaining in those uncleared regions. It is a lamentable circumstance that the Brazilian government does not adopt some effectual plan to render these extensive and fertile territories of the Parahiba subservient to the wants of civilized man. The absence of comfort in the houses of the planters in the Goytacaze district is very conspicuous, and they have yet much to learn in the school of hospitality.

St. Gonçalo and St. Sebastiam are parishes of this district, both situated upon the Parahiba, and a few leagues distant from the principal town.

The district of Canta Gallo (Singing Cock) is a territory of great fertility, and irrigated by many rivers and smaller streams, which issue from the Organ Mountains, its southern limit, and discharge themselves into the Parahiba, which separates it from Minas Geraes on the north. It is bounded on the east by a continuation of the Organ range, which divides it from Goytacazes; and on the west by the river Piabanha, which separates it from Parahiba Nova. It has mines of gold, for the working of which the first colony was established in the year 1785. The fifths on the gold, rendered to the crown, in the four following years, were above ten thousand cruzades; and the duty upon agricultural productions amounted to eight thousand in the same period.

Amongst its rivers may be remarked the Pequequera, well stored with fish and navigable for the space of twenty miles; the Rio Negro, little less voluminous, and navigable for an equal distance, and also abounding with fish; the Bengales; and one called Rio Grande.

The major part of the territory, up to the epoch of its colonization, was under the dominion of the Coroado Indians, the remains of the ancient Goytacazes, at present not numerous, and allied to the conquerors. Their houses are large, constructed of timber and earth; they are of extraordinary length, covered with grass, or the bark of trees, with one door only, and without a single window. One of these rudely-constructed edifices will contain fifty, sometimes eighty, and even one hundred families. Generally each house constitutes an aldeia; very rarely two are met with together. Every morning, at the break of day, on hearing the song of a species of partridge, called[109] macuco, (which sits upon trees during the night,) they immediately rise, and, although it rains, they go and bathe in the nearest torrent or lake; for which purpose a signal is made by the sound of an instrument formed of a cane.

Their marriage ceremonies consist of a species of banquet, at which all the inhabitants of the aldeia assemble; and generally the whole party become intoxicated. Immediately on being sensible of the approach of labour, the women retire into a wood, where they become mothers without any assistance whatever, and return with their infants, already covered with the juice of certain herbs, to render them less susceptible of cold.

These natives inter their dead in a sitting posture. Formerly the cemeteries of their caciques, or captains, consisted of cylindrical earthen vases, denominated cammucis; some of which have been recently found, containing bones.

These Indians use the bow and arrow only. The arrow is a species of cane, with a point of peculiarly hard wood, exposed to the fire till it acquires the greatest degree of consistency; some, intended for large animals, are formed at the point like a sword; others triangular and quadrangular.

A man who returns to the house after an absence of many days does not say a single word, in compliment, to his family, nor do they receive him in any other manner than if he had only been to fetch water from the fountain.

In 1814 the parish of Santissimo Sacramento was created a town, with the name of St. Pedro de Canta Gallo. Its civil government is conducted by two ordinary judges, three magistrates, and various minor officers. It is a middling town, traversed by a current of good water, which flows to the river Macuco. Its inhabitants, and those of its extensive district, prefer agriculture to mining, and they cultivate the usual necessaries of life belonging to the country.

In this district is the parish of St. Joze de Leonissa, upon the Parahiba, in front of the embouchure of the river Pomba, was created a parish in 1812, and is a povoacāo, abounding with fish and all the necessaries of life. Its inhabitants are yet almost all Indians.

Between the rivers Pomba and Parahiba, about six miles distant from the angle of their confluence, the parish of St. Antonio de Padua was erected, in 1812, in a district well adapted to the culture of various branches of agriculture.

The dwellers of the northern margin of the Parahiba are diocesans of Rio de Janeiro.

This province, which includes the major part of the territory to the south of the capitania of St. Amaro, either had no donatories when John III. divided the coast, or from some other cause it was not colonized. Neither was its colonization accomplished by Viscount D’Asseca, nor his brother, John Correa de Sa, at the period of the great distributions of land which Peter II. granted to them in the territory denominated St. Gabriel, adjacent to the river Plate.

The names by which this capitania was sometimes, although seldom, designated, of D’El Rey and St. Pedro, are supposed to have been given when it was first annexed to the crown lands.

About the end of the sixteenth or the beginning of the seventeenth century, some Vincentistas removed their establishments to the vicinity of lake Dos Patos, and their descendants extended themselves to the south and west, as the Indians gradually relinquished the country.

The capitanias of the brothers Souzas, could not be enlarged beyond their prescribed limits, although the adjoining districts of land were devoluta, or without donatories; yet the first settlers there from these capitanias were always considered their people, and known as Vincentistas and Paulistas, until those districts were erected into this province. It is the most southern one in the Brazil, very extensive and important, lying between twenty-eight and thirty-five degrees of south latitude, and is bounded on the north by the province of St.[111] Catharina (from which it is separated by the river Manbituba) and the province of St. Paulo; on the west it is skirted by the river Uruguay and the province of that name; on the south by the river Plate; and on the east by the Atlantic Ocean; being upwards of five hundred miles long and four hundred wide.

The climate is temperate, participating almost equally of heat and cold, and the air is pure and healthy. Winter begins in May and lasts till October. The prevailing wind is from the south-east. The longest day of the year, in the most southern part of the province, is about fourteen hours, or rather more. Frost occasionally prevails from the month of July till September. The greatest part of this province is flat, having extensive plains, watered with numerous torrents, or rapid streams, and with lakes. No other district possesses such abundant pastures. In its southern parts the soil is well adapted to a profitable diversity of productions; to wheat, rye, barley, Indian corn, rice, peas, beans, water-melons, melons, onions, as well as to all that arises from Spanish horticulture; also, some cotton, mandioca, and the sugar-cane. Hemp and different qualities of flax grow in great abundance. Fruit-trees of the south of Europe prosper here better than between the tropics, and none multiply so prodigiously as the peach. The vine flourishes in profusion and perfection; but the absence of a spirit of industry and improvement still retards the manufacture of wine, of which the grape here would afford an excellent quality.

D. Peter de Mendonça, sent by Charles V. with eight hundred men, in order to form a colony in the river Plate, in 1535, established himself in the place where the city of Buenos Ayres now stands, in the country of the Maracotos, by whose hands he lost his life, and a great part of his followers, in 1539. The rest had, in the preceding year, advanced up the Paraguay, and already begun the city of Assumption. D. Pedro Ortez de Zarate, governor of that city, re-established the colony of Mendonça at Buenos Ayres, and took up his residence there in 1580, in order to supply the want of a port to the city of Assumption, which they could not obtain on the opposite margin of the Plate.

The Vincentistas would not consent to any Spanish establishment on the northern margin of this river, from Cape St. Mary to the embouchure of the river Paraguay, and from whence they were repulsed every time they attempted to gain a footing. The settlers from St. Paulo, in the years 1536, 1538, and 1540, expelled some priests of the orders of St. Cosme, St. Damiao, St. Anna, &c. who had settled in the land of St. Gabriel, from the upper to the eastern part of the river, and effectually drove them into the province of Paraguay.

In the sixty years that Portugal was subject to the court of Castile, various Spanish colonies established themselves in the vicinity of the river Uruguay; and, in order to prevent a continuation of these establishments towards the east, D. Manuel Lobo, governor of Rio de Janeiro, founded Colonia do Sacramento, at the request of the infant Don Pedro, in 1680.

Scarcely had seven months elapsed, when it was surprised and taken, by Don Joze Garro, governor of Buenos Ayres, accompanied with circumstances of much barbarity. It was restored at the end of three years, and placed in its former state, by Duarthe Teixeira Chaves. It however returned under the dominion of Buenos Ayres, being abandoned by the governor, Sebastian da Veiga, in 1703, who, after a long and valorous resistance, retired with all his people and property, in ships, to Rio de Janeiro, not having sufficient forces any longer to resist the power of Don Alonso Valdez. By the treaty of Utrecht, in 1713, it was restored to the crown of Portugal, but was attacked afresh in 1735, by Don Miguel de Salcedo, governor of Buenos Ayres, and defended by Antonio Pedro, with much courage, till he could receive aid, during which period, his brave garrison were reduced to the necessity of eating dogs, cats, and rats. On the arrival of the expected succour, Salcedo raised the siege, an auxiliary force of some thousand Tappes, brought by the Jesuit, Thomas Berley, availing him nothing. In 1750, when Don Joseph ascended the throne, the two courts agreed to a treaty of limits between their respective possessions, the one giving up Colonia, and the other the seven missions to the east of the Uruguay. The line of division commenced at the mouth of the little river nearest the hill of Castilhos Grandes, and continued along the highest range of land, in which the various rivers originate that run into the lakes Mirim and Patos, to the source of the river Ibicuí, and along its channel to its entrance into the Uruguay; by the latter, upwards to the mouth of the Piquiri, which joins it by the right bank, above the great fall, and by that river to its origin; from thence, by the top of the nearest mountains, to the source of the first river met with that runs into the river Iguacu, proceeding downwards by the latter, to its entrance into the Parana, and continued thence to the mouth of the Gatimim, and by that river upwards to its origin; from which point, to the source of the nearest river that runs into the Paraguay: from this confluence, continuing upwards by the last great river to the mouth of the Jauru, and from thence by a line to the left bank of the Guapore; and by it downwards, to a latitude at an equal distance between its confluence with the Mamore and the entrance of the Madeira into the Maranham; and from that latitude, by a line from east to west, as far as the[113] Hyabary, the bed of which river to complete the line as far as the Maranham. The commissioners sent by the two courts, in 1752, to arrange this demarcation, having arrived at the source of the Rio Negro, were obliged to return, from the opposition of the Indians of the missions, they being advised secretly by the Jesuits not to consent to the proposed exchange. On learning which, the two Sovereigns determined to compel the Indians to obedience by force of arms. For this purpose, Gomez Freyre d’Andrade, governor of Rio de Janeiro, marched with more than one thousand troops; and the governor of Buenos Ayres with double the number. When the combined armies were marching through the territories lying between the source of the Caziquey, and the Vaccahy-guaçu, they were met by more than twelve thousand Tappes, determined to frustrate their project. On the 10th of February, 1756, a battle took place, in which the Indians were routed with the loss of fifteen hundred, leaving on the field some pieces of artillery, and a great number of other arms, the major part retiring to the missions, where shortly after the conquerors arrived. The Indians were immediately reduced to subjection; and, according to the treaty, they passed over to the other side of the Paraguay. Gomez Freyre d’Andrade took possession of the country, but, before delivering up Colonia, received advices that his presence was indispensable at Rio, for which place he immediately set out. The army remained some months behind, seizing the produce of the labour of the Indians, and at length retired, many returning to their homes. Bougainville, (say the Portuguese,) out of revenge for not having been treated at Rio de Janeiro, by C. da Cunha, as he wished, gives a different account of this expedition.

The commissioners, in 1759, while completing this demarcation, found in the field of battle, in latitude 30° south, a wooden cross set upright, with the following inscription, in the Guarani language.

Anuo de 1756
Omnium S^to rum A 7 O ch^to Jesus^tuo Pa^e tie cr^e
de Febrero pipe
omanò C^r J. b.
Tiarayu Guarani
pipe Sabado ramo
A 10
de Febrero p^e oico
Guarini guaçú Martes p^e
9 Taba Uruguay rebe
[114]gua 1500 Soldados rebe
hae beiaere Mburubichare
ta omanô onga ape.
A 4 de
Marzo p^e oya pou ca
Angaco Cruz mtu Dⁿ
Miguel Moyri sold^e
repa upe

A little to the southward, in the plains of the Yapóguaçú, the commissioners met with a field or space enclosed with wood capable of containing forty thousand oxen.

The certainty of war breaking out in 1762, having been received at Buenos Ayres, the governor, Don Pedro Cevalhos, unexpectedly ordered a furious attack upon Colonia. Vincente da Fonseca, its governor, after a vigorous resistance of twenty-five days, seeing the horrible devastation which a prodigious discharge of artillery had caused, capitulated, and marched out with his garrison on the 29th October. Two ships of war, with other smaller vessels were sent from Rio de Janeiro, to reinforce the place; and, on finding that it had surrendered, they unavailingly endeavoured to regain it; and, in the ardour of battle, one of their ships of war was burned. Cevalhos now proceeded against the forts of St. Miguel, St. Theresa, and Rio Grande de St. Pedro, which surrendered in consequence of not having adequate force for their protection. Little care had been taken for the security of this fine country by the inhabitants. After reducing also a fortification on the southern part of the peninsula, the Spaniards marched sixteen hundred men to the west of the lake of Patos, against the fort of Rio Pardo. This corps fortified itself with seven pieces of artillery by the side of a wood, in the vicinity of the pass of Jacuhy, and waited for reinforcements. Intelligence being received of this circumstance at the fort of Rio Pardo, a company of dragoons, with all the Paulistas that could be assembled, making in all twelve hundred and thirty men, left the fort with a view of cutting off the march of the Spaniards. Finding, however, that their only mode of attack was from that side of the wood which did not afford any transit for cavalry, they spent several days in opening a narrow pathway through it. A passage being opened, and favoured by the light of the moon, they fell unexpectedly upon the encampment, and threw it into disorder. The Spaniards retired precipitately, with much loss in ammunition, killed, and prisoners.

The peace of 1763 put an end to the campaign. Cevalhos, in pursuance of orders he received, was to deliver Colonia to Pedro de Sarmento, now[115] appointed its governor. Rio Grande and other garrisons (unjustly, say the Portuguese) remained under the dominion of the crown of Spain until the year 1776, when they were restored by General Bohemi. In this interval, the Spaniards extended their possessions into the interior, and constructed the fort of St. Tecla, which was demolished at the restoration of Rio Grande.

In 1774, Don John Joze Vertis, having with sinister views taken his station with eight hundred troops, on a plain near the pass of Taquatinguay, was attacked and destroyed by two companies of Paulistas, commanded by captains Bandeiro and Carneiro. During the tranquillity of peace, an armament, commanded by Cevalhos, for the purpose of seizing the island of St. Catharina, anchored in front of the colony, who were unprovided with sufficient provisions, the people having been sustained by the stores of the royal magazines, which it was alleged would only last five days. Assigning as a reason the impossibility of receiving succours, the governor, with a probable want of courage, offered to capitulate, which offer being rejected, he surrendered at discretion, with the exception of some officers, their families, and a few inhabitants, who, by paying a sum of money, obtained permission to go to Rio de Janeiro. The greater part of the colony were conducted at their own expense to Mendonça and Cordova, in order to augment the population and agriculture of those districts. Cevalhos was cruel enough not to exempt the women from this march, some of whose husbands were sent dangerously ill to the hospital of Buenos Ayres; others were seen carrying in their arms their infants dying with the small pox.

The loss of the island of St. Catharina, then more considerable for its ultimate advantages, than for its present value, produced a treaty of peace between the two nations, in the same year, 1777, with an article to establish a new line of division in the southern part only, one surrendering the aforesaid island, the other Colonia; and in the province of Uruguay, a greater portion of neutral territory to remain between the small rivers Chuy, the ancient limit, and Thahim. The demarcation was to proceed in a direct line by the source of the river Arica, northward to the mouth of the Peperi-guaçu; and passing the Setequeades (Seven Falls) to continue up the Igurey to the Paraguay.

The certainty of war between his Catholic Majesty and Portugal, being received at Rio Grande St. Pedro, in June, 1801, the governor immediately ordered a proclamation to be issued to the corps de guard, to regard the Spanish nation as enemies; and, in the expectation of an order coming from the capital to make a formal declaration, he pardoned all deserters who were willing to take up arms. An official letter now arriving from his excellency the Viceroy, the campaign commenced[116] by the marching of troops in two bodies to the frontier of Rio Pardo and Rio Grande. By the narrow land between the lake Mirim and the ocean, S. Soares and J. Antunes marched with one hundred and fifty men against the camp of Chuy, which was surprised, sacked, and abandoned, without any loss on the part of the assailants. This corps passed to the other side of Rio de St. Gonçalo, and halted at Herval, in front of some advanced posts established on the north of the Jaguaron, which the Spaniards abandoning, the Portuguese demolished. The same misfortune befel all the other Spanish detachments, as far as the vicinity of the Jacuhy, without excepting fort St. Teela. On the Spanish guards retiring towards the post of Cerro-largo, twelve leagues to the south of the Jaguaron, on the Batuvi, they had a re-encounter with a party of Portuguese, who put them to flight, took six waggons with ammunition, provisions, and mathematical instruments. A small party of the Portuguese and Spaniards engaged each other on the Jaguaron, when the former were successful, returning with fifty prisoners, having lost only two men.

Shortly after, a colonel passed to the other side of the river with twelve hundred Portuguese, and marched to the attack of the Spanish fort at Cerro-largo. Before the Portuguese had fired many guns, some cartridges of powder took fire, and a horse taking fright threw the cavalry into disorder, which spread through the whole detachment. Animated by this event, and wishing to take advantage of it, a sortie was made by a squadron of Spanish cavalry; but the Portuguese forming again, they were obliged to retreat. This trifling reverse, and the smallness of the garrison, induced the commandant to capitulate. The Portuguese apprehending, however, the arrival of some Spanish reinforcements from Monte Video, dismantled the fort and returned to their former position. Shortly afterwards, the large reinforcement which left Monte Video in order to succour the pass of Cerro-largo, arrived at the opposite banks of the river. The Portuguese showing at the same time a resolute determination to oppose their passage. In this state of things, the news of peace arrived and terminated the campaign.

Mountains.—This province has no very considerable mountains, excepting the cordillera called the General Serra, which runs from the north, near the sea, and in the parallel of 29° 30′ turns to the west, and then north-west with some windings, breaking in many parts to afford a passage to various rivers, amongst others, the Paranna. The mountain of St. Martinho, or Monte Grande, is a portion of that serra, where it divides this province from that of Uruguay. Monte Vidio, or Video, situated on the west side of the bay to which it gives the name, is pleasing to the view, and high only in the vicinity of the sea. [117]The Castilhos Grandes is a hill near to the point of the same name, and crowned with stones, that appear like towers.

The Pao d’Assucar (Sugar-Loaf) is upon the shore four or five leagues to the west of Maldonado, and the hill of St. Luzia a little to the east of the river of the same name. The Serra dos Tappes, which is of very small elevation, runs parallel with the lake of Patos at a distance of from four to seven leagues, being fifteen leagues long from north to south, and five broad. That of Herval is further to the north, behind the Tappes.

The extensive chains of small hills, without trees, and forming pasturage for flocks of cattle, are called cochilhas.

The before-mentioned Pao d’Assucar is at the southern extremity of the chain called the Great Cochilha, which extends itself to the north as far as the source of the river Arica. In many parts, its elevation is imperceptible, appearing like a plain, and from both sides other mountains branch off, as do some rivers which have their origin in it. The hills ranging to the west of it are not well known; the largest on the east are the Herval, the Piratinim, approximating the rivers of the same names, and the Babiragua, in the vicinity of the Camacuan. The highest points of the hills and cochilhas, and destitute of vegetation, are called serros, their summits serving on occasions of war for watchtowers, which are numerous, and some of them are seen from others at a distance of twenty leagues.

Rivers.—The numerous streams of this province almost all issue by two channels, viz. the Rio Grande de St. Pedro, which empties itself about the middle of the eastern coast, and the Rio Uruguay, which runs into the Paraguay. The Great Cochilha divides the tributary streams of those two rivers. The Uruguay originates in the lower parts of the mountains which stretch along the ocean, and runs for a considerable distance under the name of Pellotas to the westward, between margins principally of pointed and massy rocks, gathering in its course the rivers Caveiras, Caroas, Chorros, and the Correntes, which issue either from the skirts or the vicinity of the same cordillera, and water the most southern portion of the province of St. Paulo, designated by the name of Campos da Vaccaria. It here takes the name with which it terminates, and, already assuming the appearance of a large river, bends its course towards the south-west, still accumulating by other streams. In latitude 29½°, it receives the considerable river Ibicui by the left, afterwards the Mirinay by the right, then flowing southward, and ultimately the Negro by its eastern margin; has many windings and islands, and affords navigation for large boats to the first great[118] fall, which is ten leagues below the confluence of the Ibicui. Canoes advance as far up as the centre of the vaccarias, or cattle-plains, not, however, without immense labour, occasioned by the many cataracts and rapid currents.

The river Ibicui rises in the plains of Japóguassu, and, after running many leagues to the west, turns northward for a space of twenty-five leagues, augmenting considerably by the junction of many rivers, one of them being the river Caziquey; a little below which confluence the Toropy joins it, which is larger, and comes from the cattle plains, flowing south-west, and bringing with it the river Ibicui-Mirim, that joins it on the left a little higher up. At this confluence, called Forquilha, (Three-pronged,) where the Ibicui becomes considerable, it turns to the west, and gradually augments in importance, so that much above its embouchure it is four hundred fathoms wide; a little below the Forquilha it is joined on the right by the Jaguari, a considerable stream, which also comes from the before-mentioned vaccarias. Its banks are covered with wild shrubs and trees; the tortuous channel has many islands, the current almost always tranquil, and navigable nearly to the heads of those rivers which form it.

The river Negro has its origin very near to that of the Ibicui, runs always to the south-west, is enlarged by the receipt of a number of streams, and incorporates itself with the Uruguay five leagues before that river enters the Paraguay, or Plate, after having watered eighty leagues of country, abounding, for the major part, in cattle: its largest confluent is the Hy, which it receives nearly twenty leagues above its mouth, after a course of thirty-six leagues, from east to west, through a country rich in pasturage and cattle.

The river St. Luzia takes a course, for nearly forty leagues, through a country similarly abundant, and disembogues four leagues to the west of Monte Video, having received by the right bank, a little higher up, the St. Joze, with which it becomes wide, deep, and navigable, with a good port at its mouth.

The river Jacuhy (from the bird Jacús) is formed, on the western side of the cattle-plains, by a union of various streams, which irrigate those campos, and from whence it issues being already considerable. A few leagues after having traversed the General Serra it flows eastward, describing innumerable windings for a space of thirty leagues and on a sudden turns towards the south. After a further course of fifteen miles, having become a large river, it enters the western side of the lake Patos, about four leagues below its northern extremity. Amongst other smaller streams which swell its waters, after issuing from the serra, is the Vaccahy, which rises a few leagues to the north of the Ibicuí-Guaçu, and brings with it the Vaccahy-Mirim, which has its origin a short distance from[119] that of the Jacuhy-Mirim. These rivers were so named after cattle began to graze near them. The gentle course of the Jacuhy is uninterrupted by cataracts, and is perfectly free to navigation. The Irapuan receives a great many currents, almost all muddy and brackish, and very cold. A species of soft black stone, with white particles like silver, are found upon many parts of its banks. On being burnt, it emits a sulphureous smell, assumes the appearance of charcoal, and is said to be of no higher value. The Butucarai comes from the north, and has a bridge. Near its mouth is the passage of Fandango. The Pigueri joins the Irohy, and comes from the Serro Pellado da Encruzilhada. The Tubatingahy originates between a serro and the Encruzilhada. The Pardo, having its source in a serra, runs through a country covered with wild woods; the large stones in its bed preclude navigation: it is passed by a bridge. The Capibari flows from the vicinity of the source of the Irohy. The Antos, formed by various currents, which issue from the lower part of the cordillera, after a considerable course towards the west, turns to the south, receives the Tibicoari, and, ten leagues farther, under the latter name, enters the Jacuhy, of which it is the largest tributary, affording an open navigation to yachts as far as the confluence, where it loses the first name. The adjacent country is fertile, producing beautiful pine and other trees of excellent timber. The Jacuhy, (ten leagues below the Jacoari,) at the part where on a sudden it turns to the south, is two miles in width, forming a bay, where it receives the Cahy, which issues from the plains on the summit of the General Serra, with a course of about twenty-five leagues, almost south, and affording a navigation to yachts of ten leagues. The Sino, something smaller, which rises on the top of the same serra, more to the south, runs south-west, and is navigable for a considerable distance. The Gravatahy, which has its origin in the same hills, further to the south, runs in the same direction, and affords navigation for a space of five leagues.

The rivers Igarupay, Daymar, and Gualeguay, are the principal ones which enter the Uruguay, by the left bank, between the mouths of the Ibicuí and the Negro.

The Maldonado, and the two rivers Solis, (small and great,) discharge themselves into the gulf of the river Plate. Rio Grande de St. Pedro is the name of the outlet of the lake of Patos, and is about ten miles in length almost north and south, near one league in width, and is situated sixty leagues north-east from Cape St. Mary. The lateral lands are very flat, and destitute of trees or buildings to direct the navigator, who, at a distance only of two[120] leagues, with clear weather, can but just distinguish the entrance to the port in 32° 4′, where the ebbing and flowing of the water generally produce an agitated sea, rendering the shoals variable, so that no ship can or should enter the port without a well experienced person, acquainted with the state of the bar.

The lake of Patos, which took its name from a nation of Indians now unknown, is the largest in the Brazil, being one hundred and fifty miles in length from north-east to south-west, parallel with the coast, and thirty-five at its greatest width, with sufficient depth for vessels of a middling size; it has, however, some very dangerous shoals. The water is salt in the southern part, with the banks generally flat. It is the recipient of almost all the currents which water the northern and eastern portion of the province, and whose principal embouchures are the Jacuhy on the north, and the river de St. Gonçalo on the south. The lake Mirim, which signifies “small,” compared with the other, is ninety miles in length, and twenty-five at its greatest width; this also extends along the coast, and discharges into the lake Patos, by a channel, fifty miles long, wide, handsome, and navigable, and constituting the aforesaid river de St. Gonçalo. The river Saboyaty, after having collected many others, flows, in a considerable stream, into the southern extremity of the lake Mirim, and is navigable for many leagues. The small river Chuy disembogues almost in the middle of the same lake; and, further to the north, the river Jaguaron, which has its source near the lake Formoza, (beautiful.) It has a course of about eighty miles, and eighteen of navigation. The river Piratirim which has its origin also near the lake Formoza, empties itself about the middle of the St. Gonçalo, after a course of thirty leagues, affording ten miles of navigation. The river Pellotas, rising in the serra of the Tappes, enters the St. Gonçalo near its mouth, and admits of small vessels for five leagues. Passing the embouchure of the St. Gonçalo, the first river met with on the lake Patos is the Contagem, which is about fourteen leagues in extent. The second is the Correntes. The third is the Canguçu, navigable for some leagues. The fourth runs under the name of St. Lourenço. The fifth denominated Boqueirao, and the least of all, originates, like the others, in the Serra dos Tappes. Above the Boqueirao, in the middle of the lake of Patos, the Camapuan empties itself by five mouths, formed by four islands, the largest of which is half a league in circumference. It flows from the Great Cochilha by a rapid course of nearly one hundred miles, amongst rocks and stones, admitting navigation only for a distance of four leagues, and higher up presenting continued[121] cataracts. By its southern margin fourteen currents are admitted, some of them ten leagues in extent; and fifteen by its northern bank, none exceeding five leagues. The southern ones, commencing from the mouth of the river, are the Pereira, rising in the Serra dos Tappes; the Cardozo; the Evaristo; the Meirelles; the Sapata, which flows from the same serra; the small river Pedras, (Stones,) rising near the situation called Igatimi; the Almeida; the Arroio Grande; the Velhaco, originating in the Grand Cochilha, near the Serro Bay, and running through a bed consisting in parts of rugged and craggy prominences; the Fagundes, which runs for five leagues between rocks, with many falls; the Rodrigues, rolling angrily over precipices, and foaming between rocks and stones; the Arroio da Palma, considerable, serene, well stored with fish, and navigable for small craft; (the quadruped capibara is seen upon its banks in bands of eighty and one hundred;) and the Camapuan Chici, tranquil in its course, receiving, amongst other streams, one called Tigre. The adjacent territory consists of fine campos, fertile in corn.

Passing the mouth of the Camapuan, northward, the Duro is first met with, which runs through a flat open country, without wood, and forms in its course some lakes. Next, the Velhaco, flowing rapidly through woods. Beyond this is the Passo Grande, with like umbrageous borders.

Proceeding up by the Jacuhy to the town of Portalegre, on the left bank is the Araca, rising in the Serra Herval, and the Antonio Alves, which, three leagues above its mouth, receives the Doudarilho, and affords an open navigation to hyates, or yachts. At the northern extremity of the lake Patos the river Palmares enters, having its source in the neighbouring plains of the Tramandahy. Three leagues to the west of it runs the Capibara, which is only a current in winter, when the lake of Serra, receiving the waters of various small brooks, discharges them through this outlet: the lake is about eighteen miles long and five wide, and runs parallel with the cordillera. The country which these rivers traverse is a plain of white sand, and in great part marshy, producing, however, some herbage, brushwood, and plantations.

Along the coast, which runs from Cape St. Mary to the little Castilhos, are various lakes approximating to the sea. The lake Manglieira, which is eighty miles long and about four broad, extends between the coast and the lake Mirim, and empties itself, at the northern extremity, by an outlet called Arroio Thahim. The peninsula between the coast and the lake of Patos, from two to six leagues in width, is interspersed with a great number of lakes, generally running into the ocean,[122] or into others. Amongst those extending westward we may remark, in the southern part, the Capibaras, into which a small river empties itself of limpid water, bursting suddenly forth with admirable force, and is the purest in the peninsula, which, nevertheless, is not deficient in good potable waters. On the eastern side of the peninsula is the lake Mostardas, better known by the name of Peixe, nine leagues long, with little width, extending along the margin of the sea to the point where it disembogues through an elbow of land, that opens and closes annually, and by which various species of fish enter; the most numerous are denominated miragarga, resembling the cod-fish. With this lake various others communicate, that lie to the north, and are connected by their different mouths. Near the last, that terminates the extent of the Barros Vermelhos, another chain of a similar description commences, at a short distance from the beach, and extends parallel with it for a space of twenty-five leagues.

A short way from Barros Vermelhos, and by the side of the sea, there is a small lake that runs into a larger one, which terminates in the Capoes do Retuvado. It has an outlet into another, that extends from hence a league and a half. Beyond these there are two lakes running parallel; and still further another, near the Capao do Xavier, a distance of two leagues, which discharges itself into the lake Charqueada, the latter terminating in the place of that name, and running by a vein into a smaller one: this empties itself into a lake of equal size, and that is joined to a larger, which terminates in the Capao Dastacoáras. The last discharges itself into the Quintao, which runs into the Cidreira. The Cidreira is divided into three bays or lakes, communicating by necks or outlets, and occupying an extent of four leagues and a half. It has a channel of two miles long to the Ribeiro, terminating near the passage of the Arroio, its outlet to the river Tramandahy. The river Tramandahy is in 30° south latitude, and is nothing more than the channel of discharge to a great number of lakes, spreading themselves over the extensive plains that lie between the beach and the cordillera. Into this river also is discharged the most southern of another chain of lakes, that extend themselves along the same cordillera northward, very near to the river Mombituba, at the mouth of which there is a military detachment, in order to register persons entering or leaving the province. In the space of twelve leagues, which lie between the Tramandahy and the Mombituba, fourteen small rivers of crystalline water are discharged into the sea.

The afore-mentioned peninsula, formed by the lake Patos and the ocean,[123] is level ground, with a small elevation, or albardao, near the middle; it is almost in a direct line on the eastern side, forming various points and bays on the opposite one. Among the first is the Ponta do Mandanha, commencing at the south, where have been found the vestiges of an Indian village and cemetery. Next to this the Ponta Raza; between them the lake das Capibaras discharges itself. In the middle of the bay called Barrancas, which is the best shelter in this lake for all vessels, some small rivers are emptied, one of which is navigated by canoes and other boats. The Ponta of Bujurú is six leagues more to the north. Into the middle of a bay of the same name, runs a fine river, which forms a little island at the bar. The point of Christovam Pereira is six leagues further. In the bay, which is to the southward of it, there are two considerable mountains of shells, which prove how much the Indians were attached to shell-fish. The point and bay of Cacira are more to the north, and the last that are remarkable. The ground is generally of a very sandy soil, but in some parts clay is found below the sand, which shows that the peninsula is not formed by the sand of the sea, but that the ancient soil is covered with it. Between the lakes Mirim and Mangueira, for many leagues, the small river Chuy takes its course, and enters the ocean in front of the southern extremity of the first.

Capes, Ports, and Islands.—St. Mary is the only cape. Monte Video, St. Luzia, and Maldonado are the best ports. The islands of Castilhos, near the point of the same name, and Maldonado, in the entrance of the bay of the same name, are both small. The isle of Lobos, (Wolves,) two miles in circumference, has good water, is almost all rocks and stones, and lies four leagues to the south-east of the preceding one. There are two others to the south-west of Cape St. Mary. The isle das Flores, half a league long, and of little width, is flat, and six miles to the east of Monte Video. The isle of Martim Garcia is to the west-north-west of the bay of Colonia do Sacramento, in front of the mouth of the river St. Francisco. The isle of St. Gabriel, four hundred and fifty fathoms long, its width proportionable, is in front of Colonia; as well as the isle of Antonio Lopes, and the English Island, both small. That of Fornos, two hundred and forty fathoms long, approximates nearer to the beach. The island of Marinheiros, three to four leagues in circuit, flat and covered with trees and brushwood, is near the southern extremity of the lake of Patos, and a little to the north of the town of St. Pedro, whose inhabitants have recourse to it for water and firewood.

Mineralogy.—Terra-sombra, or umber, calcareous stone, potters’ earth, gold, silver, and sulphureous minerals.

Phytology.—Timber is more remarkable here for its fine quality than its abundance. From the parallel of 30° degrees southward, on the banks of the principal rivers only, are to be seen any forests of fine full-grown timber. Out of these latitudes, in this province, trees are rare and of small size. In the southern parts, they burn bones and the excrements of cattle, in consequence of the scarcity of wood. In the northern there are beautiful pine trees.

Zoology.—Five nations held their dominion in this province. The Patos in the peninsula, and to the north of the lake which has taken their name; the Charruas, around the lake Mirim, and as far as the river Plate; the Minuânos, to the westward of the latter; the Tappes, from the lake Patos to the Uruguay; the Guaycanans, in the cattle plains, where they still reside at times. Of the first there is now no account, and they appear to be extinct, having most probably intermixed with other tribes. The Charrúas have retired into the centre of the country. The Minuânos occupy the lands to the westward of the Tappes from the Ibicui southward. Between the Minuânos and the Charrúas enmity perpetually exists, and frequently wars occur. They both use the lance, the arrow, and the sling, and are expert on horseback. Grapuetan is the name of the country where the Minuânos reside for a considerable part of the year. The Tappes in great numbers formerly lived under the influence of the Christian missions of the Uruguay.

Amongst other species of wild quadrupeds, there are the anta, like a little cow without horns, as common in the West Indies, the deer, the ounce, the monkey, the paca, like a pig of two months old, the rabbit, quati, cotia, tatous, or armadillo, covered with scales, the jaraticáca, or squash, which the Spaniards and Portuguese call forrilho, the boar, the fox, with various kinds of dogs, viz. the jaguaratirica, guará, guaraxain, and the jaguane. The race of the European species of dog have here multiplied excessively, so that they live in the plains, where they subsist with others of the wild kind, without ever entering any village or dwelling. They are called chimarrōe dogs. Immediately on the slaughter of cattle ceasing, and when in want of provisions, they assemble together in large bands, and encircle an ox, which they pursue with unceasing obstinacy until the animal falls with fatigue, and is devoured by them in a few hours. A horseman even runs a risk in the plains, when they are in a state of famine. No province in the Brazil abounds with[125] such prodigious herds of cattle, horses, and mules. Goats are not very numerous. The sheep produce a fine wool.

In the beginning of the last century this province was covered with cattle, in spite of the devastation which the Indian and the ounce had made amongst them. The conquerors, persuaded that such a profusion of cattle never would have an end, commenced by carrying on a destruction amongst them resembling that of the tiger and the wolf in the sheepfold. This havoc was principally directed against the calves, and generally one did not suffice for the dinner of two comrades; probably they both wished to eat the tongue, and to make a greater certainty of it they killed a second calf, rather than divide the first. There were men who killed an animal in the morning in order to breakfast on broiled kidneys; and, not to be incommoded by carrying any part of the meat for dinner, performed the same operation by killing the best they could discover for dinner. There was no banquet without veal only a few days old.

Don Joaquim Vianna, governor of Monte Video, hearing of this destruction of the cattle, and informed of the cause, issued an order, about the year 1650, with a heavy penalty attached to its transgression, that no more calves or cows should be killed, excepting such cows as were barren; and that no bulls or oxen should be slaughtered for their skins, excepting those of five years of age and upwards. In the vice-royalty of the Marquis de Lavradio, some good arrangements were made in the northern part of the province; but all were not under their influence, in consequence of the widely spreading districts, to many of which they did not extend.

Two small portions of the cattle of this province are appropriated, one to the consumption of the country, and the other to the slaughter-house of the metropolis; but the far greatest proportion is manufactured into jirked-beef, which is salted without bones, dried in the sun, and exported to the principal ports in the Brazil; but, from the desultory warfare carried on near the river Plate, it has recently become very scarce, and bacalhao, or salt fish, brought by British ships to the ports of Brazil, has become a substitute at many places.

In 1802, there were yet only amongst the subjects of the faithful crown, five hundred and thirty-nine proprietors of land, judicially marked out amongst the breeders of cattle, denominated fazendeiros, or farmers, and lavradores, or husbandmen, which latter breed only what is necessary for their own service and consumption; they possess generally about two square leagues of land: but those of the first order have eight or ten square leagues, and some even more. The greatest proportion[126] of the cattle are breeding cows. In a plain or field of three leagues are usually bred four or five thousand head, and proportionably more or less, according to the quality of the land, or attention of the breeder. The pasturage is not, however, generally good, the soil being, as before mentioned, of a sandy nature.

For the management of a fazenda of five thousand head of cattle, it is said six men are sufficient, with one hundred horses at least; the whole of which pasture together in troops of twenty, with a tamed mare, from which they do not usually stray. From the sandy nature of the soil, as in many other parts of Brazil, particularly at Pernambuco, no expense is incurred by the owners for shoeing them. In each establishment, or tract of land, there is commonly a small hill, or the most elevated land is selected, as plain and even at the summit as possible, which is known by the name of rodeio, (a certain compass of land,) and is capable of receiving the whole flock, when brought together. For this purpose, the shepherds on horseback distribute themselves round about the cattle, and cry out loudly “Rodeio, rodeio, rodeio;” at whose voices the cattle march at full trot towards the rodeio, in files, divided into droves or bands of fifty to one hundred, according to the numbers that pasture together. This mode of forming them early into troops is indispensable, in order to put on the mark of the dono or proprietor upon such as have it not, and with more facility to select those that are upwards of four years old for the market, or for carne-secco, or jirked beef.

If the stock of cattle exceed the number of heads which the fazenda is capable of sustaining, they of course run short of pasturage, and many spread out into more distant plains, and after a time will no longer obey the rodeio, but fly and disorder the rest of the flock.

In a fazenda of three leagues it is computed that one thousand young cattle, male and female, are branded or marked, annually; consequently the number they send off or kill may be estimated in the same ratio.

The farmers also breed a certain number of domestic cattle. He who possesses four thousand cattle, which are denominated bravo, or wild, keeps commonly one hundred milch cows, which, however, pasture in the same fields or plains with the others. When a cow calves, she always selects a situation adapted to the concealment of her young, where it continues in secrecy for the space of eight days. She visits it at different times in the course of the day, in order to give it suck, lying by it at night. It is difficult to find[127] them during this period; but once discovered the calf is immediately conducted to the cattle fold, where it is kept eight or nine months or more, being daily visited by its dam, which is milked the whole of this time, for the purpose of making butter and cheese, leaving to the prisoner only what it can draw from its mother after she has been milked. The familiarity of the young one with the persons upon the fazenda preserves it in a state of tameness. The males, when sufficiently grown, are used in the cart or plough, and the females pasture in the plains till they become mothers, continuing to supply the farmer with an increasing stock.

Although the domesticated cattle are not bred up with such a satiety of provision as the wild ones, which enjoy the whole of the mother’s milk, and pasture the entire day without working, yet they grow as large and become fatter. This is attributed to the fearful nature of the undomesticated kind, who fly from every animal that appears; whilst the tame ones, although they eat less, live in quiet, always retaining the habit of going to the fold, and approaching people without alarm; they are also less time in the fields, consuming less pasturage, and it is estimated that the aliment which four thousand head of wild cattle exhaust is sufficient to sustain eight thousand of the tame. The meat of the latter is esteemed the most savoury.

The same fazendeiros breed also droves of horses and mules. The latter are the most lucrative, a male one being at least double the value of a horse; and in consequence, its species is more numerous, although very few persons breed more than two hundred annually. The she mules of two years old are either sold or separated from the rest, in order to avoid the destruction which they would cause in the species. A she mule seeing the foal of a mare, immediately begins to caress it as her own, and will not allow the mother to approach to give it milk; the result is, that it perishes with hunger.

The breed of sheep would, if attended to, much exceed that of cattle, in consequence of their generally producing two at a birth; they are not however numerous, few farmers possessing one thousand head, and the major part not any. Nothing here appears so easy and cheap as the multiplication of this animal. For the purpose of shepherding a flock of one thousand, two cur dogs are sufficient, bred up in the following mode. As soon as they are whelped, the lambs of a ewe are killed, the puppies are put to her, and she suckles them until she becomes habituated to treat them as her young, when, upon opening their eyes and seeing no other benefactor, they attach themselves to her, and play with the lambs as if they were of[128] the same species. Nothing is ever given them to eat; they are shut in the fold with the sheep, and on obtaining strength and vigour to attend the flock, they are suffered to go at large, when they accompany it to the field. In a little time, and without more instruction, they are so familiarized with the sheep, that they never separate from them. When it happens that a ewe lambs in the field, and the lamb cannot accompany the mother, in consequence of its not yet having sufficient strength to follow her, one of the dogs watches near, and if he finds that the lamb cannot follow the mother to the flock, he carries it in his mouth, without doing it the least harm. No other animal or unknown person can approach the sheep, of which these dogs are the guardians, without the risk of being attacked. The other domestic dogs and the hordes of the chimarroe dogs are the greatest enemies to the flock; against them and the birds of prey, which pick out the eyes of the lambs, the vigilance of the watch dogs is requisite.

Amongst other species of birds are the Macuco partridge, the parrot, caroe, inhuma, sócó, tayugu, jaluerá, heron, jacu, the araponga mutum, tucano, and the quail. In the lakes are large numbers of wild ducks, and large wild geese, some brown, some white, others with black necks, which when stripped of their feathers, are covered with a fine long down, similar to the Armenian fur, and serving for the same uses. The marine geese, which have a bill like a turkey, with smaller wings and without feathers, for the most part go at the bottom of the sea, and are seen occasionally upon this coast, as well as the sea calf. It is said, that here the emu ostrich lays many eggs in one nest, to which they never return after having finished laying; the male then hatches them, after instinctively breaking two, for the collection of a large quantity of flies; thus the young find sustenance till they are able to accompany their protector, when he remains their guide for several days. The people do not generally follow hunting or shooting, so that game is very abundant; neither are they partial to fishing.

The inhabitants are instructed in the use of the laço, in order to catch wild cattle. It is a cord of twisted leather, secured by one end of the saddle or girth of the horse, upon which the laçador is mounted, the other end forms a noose through which the cord runs, and, curling it up, the horseman throws with dexterity to a great distance, and secures the animal by the horns or the neck. The sagacious horse instantly throws itself into a firmly inclining posture, to resist the opposing power of the animal to escape. There are men so skilled in this art, that they catch the wary ounce with the laço. The laçador as quickly dismounts and despatches it.

They are not less dexterous in the management of the balls, which are two[129] round stones secured at the extremity of a cord, formed also of leather, and being thrown at the legs of the animal, unexpectedly entangles them so effectually, that it cannot move another step. These species of weapons are used by them against each other. This custom was borrowed from the Maraocoto and other Indian tribes, who used the laço and balls with great effect against Mendonça when he landed and founded the city of Buenos Ayres. The Peons, who act as guides, as well as others of mixed origin, are expert with these weapons.

The Spaniards denominate the progeny of the Indian and Negro, Somboloros; and of these latter and the Mulatto, Saccalaguas; the son of a Mestico (offspring of a white and an Indian) and an Indian, Cholo. The Portuguese call the first Curibocas.

The principal towns in this province are St. Pedro, Portalegre, and Monte Video.

St. Pedro is a commercial town, and advantageously situated upon the extremity of a tongue of land, between the gulf of Manguein to the south and a bay to the north-east. It has a church dedicated to the apostle from whom the town derives its name. It has two orders of devout women; the one called St. Francisco and the other Carmo. The houses are generally very wretched, and the streets of a fine sand, the same as that of the neighbourhood. It enters so profusely into the houses, at the season of the high winds, that it is impossible to eat any thing without a portion of sand being intermixed with it. This town, begun a league to the south-west, in the situation called Estreito, was removed by Gomes Freyre d’Andrade, between the years 1747 and 1750, and was the capital till the year 1763. The heat is intense. Cats fly from the rats, which are large and exceedingly numerous; but they have a formidable enemy in the dog. Here are some English establishments in connexion with houses at Rio de Janeiro.

Upon the eastern bank of the river, in front of St. Pedro, is the considerable and flourishing arraial of St. Joze, with a hermitage of the same name. It is the town’s port; and, in 1814, there sailed from it three hundred and thirty-three vessels of various kinds, laden with wheat, hides, carne-secco, or dried beef, tallow, cheese, and other articles. Six leagues to the south of St. Pedro is the arraial of Povo Novo, ornamented with a hermitage of Nosso Senhora das Necessidades. Its inhabitants, originally from the Azore islands, are husbandmen.

Portalegre (delightful port) is a large, populous, and commercial town, has[130] good houses, and straight streets, principally paved, and is situated upon the southern margin of a bay to the eastward of the Jacuhy, seven leagues above its mouth, and forty-three leagues north of St. Pedro. It is the capital of the province, the residence of the governor, now Conde de Figura, of the ouvidor, and a vicar-general. It has a church, dedicated to Our Lady Madre de Deos, (Mother of God,) the chapel Das Dores, (of Grief,) an hospital, a Junta da Fazenda Real, (a treasury,) and a Cadeira regia de Latim, (a royal professorship of Latin.) The senate is presided by a Juiz de Fora, or a judge similar to a mayor, who also presides over the orphan establishment.

With the loss of the town of St. Pedro, in 1762, the village of Nosso Senhora de Conceiçao, became the capital, and the hermitage with which it was ornamented the parochial for some years, inasmuch as the governor, Joze Marcellino de Figueyredo did not remove the seat of government; but increased and improved this village, to which he gave the name so appropriate to its good port. In 1808, it received the title of town.

A great part of the commodities that are exported from the port of the town of St. Pedro, are shipped thither from Portalegre, in hyates, or small craft.

The adjacent country is fertile and watered by the Cahy, Caravatahy, and other rivers.

About four leagues to the north-east of Portalegre, and not quite a mile from the right bank of the Caravatahy, in an elevated and fine situation, is the parish of Nosso Senhora dos Anjos, founded by the same governor, J. M. de Figueyredo, for the habitation of various Tappe Indian families, fugitives from the missions of the Uruguay. These Indians established a large fazenda for breeding cattle, in order that they might better sustain themselves; and who, notwithstanding they were freed from the capitation, and exempted from the rod and discipline under which they had been brought up, withdrew by degrees to various situations in the province. The river is very winding, its banks abounding with timber, stone, and fine potters’ clay.

A little more than thirty-five miles to the west of Portalegre is the considerable and delightful arraial of the new parish, near the mouth of the Tacoary. Its inhabitants raise wheat and cattle.

About eighteen miles to the north is the parish of St. Joze, with a large praca, or square, on which is the mother church. It was the source of the agriculture of this province, and its people are mostly descendants of the first settlers from the Azores; from whence Senhor Don Joze brought various families.[131] They began to cultivate wheat and Indian corn according to the method of their own country, and which is at this day the occupation and support of their posterity.

Little more than three leagues to the west of the new parish, is situated the pleasant arraial of St. Amaro, also upon the northern margin of the Jacuhy, and ornamented with a magnificent church.

Eight leagues to the west of St. Amaro is the considerable town of Rio Pardo, at the mouth of the river from which it borrows the name, and has a church called Nossa Senhora do Rozario; also two chapels. It occupies four small eminences, and had its commencement with a fort dedicated to St. Lourenço, received the title of town in 1812, and that of a countship in 1815.

About two miles from it is the village of St. Nicoláu, with a hermitage of that name. The people who inhabit it are descended from the aborigines. About twelve leagues south of Rio Pardo is the arraial and chapel of St. Barbara da Encruzilhada, in an elevated and pleasant situation, and having most excellent waters. Ten leagues above Rio Pardo, upon the northern bank of the Jacuhy, is the considerable arraial of Cachoeirá, with a church of the Lady of Conceiçao. It has wide, straight, and clean streets, and possesses advantages for becoming much more considerable.

Twelve leagues to the south of Cachoeirá is situated the arraial of Cussapabá, upon a small hill near the source of the river St. Barbara, with the chapel of the Lady of Assumpçao.

North-east of Portalegre about fifteen leagues is the small town of St. Antonio da Patrulha, near the road, in an elevated country. Its inhabitants cultivate mandioca, sugar, and bananas, with other fruits.

To the north of Patrulha, in an extensive plain upon the General Serra, is the parish of Nossa Senhora do Oliveira. Cattle are its main commodity.

The peninsula formed by the ocean and the lake Patos is divided into three parishes. To the west of the lakes Patos and Mirim are the parishes of Espirito Santo, Nossa Senhora da Conceiçao de Piratinin, St. Francisco de Paulo, Nossa Senhora de Conceiçao de Canguçú, in the vicinity of the river Camapuan, and St. Sebastiam do Bajé, near the origin of that river; all in the diocese of Rio de Janeiro.

Monte Video, with the title of city, is situated in a pleasant plain at the[132] extremity of a peninsula, which forms the eastern side of a bay almost two leagues long, and one wide at the entrance. It is fortified with various batteries towards the sea, and a citadel on the land side. It has a church dedicated to the apostles St. Filippi and St. Tiago, a convent of St. Franciscans, an hospital, good houses with flat roofs and parapets, and straight streets. The inhabitants enjoy a salubrious air, but are inconvenienced from the want of wood. They drink rain-water, collected in cisterns, which are formed in the inner courts common to the houses, and this water is pure and excellent. There are also pits dug near the sea-side, from whence water is brought in carts for the supply of the town. It is one hundred and thirty miles to the west of Cape St. Mary, and one hundred and twenty east of Buenos Ayres. Its port, at the extremity of which there is a small island fortified, has not sufficient depth of water in all parts for large vessels. The pamperos, which are furious tempests from the south-west, occasion at times very great injury, and the sea here is greatly subjected to the influence of these winds. It was taken by the English in June, 1807, and given up again at the end of some months. There are a few English establishments here, but the trade is trifling compared with that of Buenos Ayres. The suburbs are thickly inhabited, and have two parochials, both dedicated to Our Lady of Carmo. More distant there are two others, Pinheral and Pedras, and their parishioners are breeders of cattle.

Maldonado is a small town, but which, with much facility, might become very considerable, from the circumstances of its favourable situation upon a fine bay, bearing the same name, and the fertility of its adjacent district. It is adorned by the church of St. Carlos; and the inhabitants are chiefly descendants of the Portuguese. It is fifteen leagues west of Cape St. Mary.

Pueblo Novo, founded for the habitation of the Portuguese prisoners of Colonia do Sacramento, is two leagues to the north of Maldonado, and has a church called St. Carlos. Near twenty-five leagues to the north of Pueblo Novo is the parish of Nossa Senhora da Conceiçao de Minas.

St. Domingos Suriano is a small town, well situated near the mouth of the river Negro, in a country abundant in corn and pastures, where large quantities of cattle are bred, which, with lime, are the principal exports. Eight leagues distant from St. Domingos Suriano is the parish of Nossa Senhora das Merces, near the margin of the Negro. About five leagues from the same place upon the St. Salvador, is the parish of Espenilho; and fourteen leagues from Espenilho, that of Viboras.

Nine leagues to the north-east of Monte Video is the parish of Nossa Senhora of Guadalupe de Canneloes. There are also the parishes of Perongos, which is in the central part of the district; of Hy, upon the river from which it takes the name; of St. Joze and of St. Luzia, near the rivers which bear their names; of Sacramento, where the Portuguese founded it; and of Pintado, along the sea. Serro Largo, with the title of a town, is delightfully situated near the place of the same name, and is the nearest to the Portuguese frontiers.

This province is bounded on the north by Matto Grosso, on the west and south by the Paraguay, and on the east by the Uruguay and the Paranna, which latter affords it the name, and divides it into two unequal parts, northern and southern. It is altogether situated in the temperate zone, between 24° and 33° 30′ south latitude, being six hundred and fifty miles long from north to south, and more than two hundred and fifty at its greatest width from east to west. The winter, which commences in May and lasts till October, is cold. The prevailing wind in this province is from the south-west. The climate is temperate and wholesome, with the exception of those marshy situations, and others which occasionally overflow, where the fever reigns periodically in certain months. This is a country almost universally low, with few mountains and hills, and these of inconsiderable elevation. The land is generally excellent, and adapted to almost all the productions of the torrid zone, as well as those of the temperate. Wheat and Indian corn are abundant, as are the plantations of cane, cotton, and mandioca. The most lucrative, however, are those of the matte. These productions do not prosper generally in all the districts; wheat rarely grows but in the southern parts, and matte in the northern. The peach tree is so prodigiously abundant in the southern islands of the Paraguay and the adjacent country, that they are frequently cut down in order to heat the oven with their branches. They are not met with to the north of St. Fé.

Sebastian Caboto and Diogo Garcia were the discoverers of this country, on advancing up the Paraguay in 1526.

The colony of Assumption was the first establishment in the province after[135] the fort of St. Anna, and suffered much from the various neighbouring nations of barbarous Indians, principally the Guaycurus and Payagoas, who were as numerous as they were ferocious and brave. It was, however, rendered defensible by the augmentation of its settlers. Defective in gold and silver mines, which attracted so many people to Peru and Mexico, this fine country, so advantageously situated, remained for many years after its discovery almost unnoticed.

The middle and eastern parts were the conquests of the Jesuits, by the introduction of Christianity amongst their possessors, the Guaranis. These priests, knowing, from experience, the relaxation of European morals, and how much it prevailed amongst the American colonists, determined to catechize only those Indians who were at a distance from the Europeans, in order that the proselytes should not know practices contrary to the precepts to be taught. The perfection with which they soon spoke the Guaranitic idiom, and the docility of this tribe of Indians, concurred equally to carry into effect this wished-for object.

In a few years the Jesuits reduced the various hordes of this nation to a settled life, in large aldeias, or villages, denominated reduçōes, the number of which, in the year 1630, had arrived at twenty, with seventy thousand inhabitants. Those who had advanced to the Upper Paranna, with the intention of extending the spiritual conquest, were obliged, by eight thousand Paulistas, to fall back, in 1631, to the south of the Maracajú Serra. The Jesuit, Montoya, relates, that he and his colleagues retired from above to below the seven falls of the Paranna, with two thousand Indians, when the Paulistas invaded the Upper Paranna, and that the latter continued hostilely to visit the reduçōes of the Lower Paranna; and that, in 1637, one hundred and forty Paulistas, with one thousand five hundred Indians, attacked the reduçōes of Jesu Maria, St. Christovam, and St. Anna, and retired with seven thousand prisoners.

The Jesuits next reduced the Tappes to the eastward, and continued to civilize those two nations, by teaching them all the useful arts, thus forming the celebrated Guaranitic empire, which moderate calculators never raised to more than two hundred thousand inhabitants; and it is said they were able to carry into the field an army of forty thousand men. One authority states that between the rivers Uruguay and Paraguay was established a powerful republic, comprising thirty-one large villages, inhabited by one hundred thousand souls; but Guthrie raises the population of these missions to three hundred and forty[136] thousand families, making a surprising and incredible population of thirteen hundred thousand inhabitants.

It is said the word Guarrannis means Guerreiros, (warriors,) and that this people, in former times, wandered about, carrying destruction to every part within their reach, and obtaining many prisoners, thus acquiring greater numbers and power. Their language and name became common to divers tribes, whom these religious teachers introduced into their associations, from different parts, by which they greatly augmented the population of this republic. The exchequer of the catholic crown furnished annually forty to fifty thousand ducats to the missionaries employed in this conquest, inasmuch as the Indians did not render their agriculture and industry adequate to the expenditure and support of the country, the public receipts of which the Jesuits were the receivers and appropriators. When the villages and temples were completed, each man, from eighteen to fifty years, paid annually a capitation of two gold pieces. The captains (caciques) were exempted from this tribute as well as their first born, (primogenitas,) and twelve men more in each mission destined to the service of the church. In 1634, when there was already thirty reduçōes with one hundred and twenty-five thousand Christian Indians, the number that paid tribute only amounted to nineteen thousand one hundred and sixteen. In 1649, with a view of gaining more subjects, and to avoid any desertion to the territory of the crown of Portugal, where there was no capitation, the Indians were alleviated from one-half of this tribute. Four years previously was conceded to them the power of exporting the matte, upon certain conditions, in order that they might become less chargeable to the capitation. The concession of this liberty was a means of feeding the cupidity of the Jesuits, by the intervention of the curates of the reduçōes serving them as a cloak through the Indians, to carry on a great trade in this commodity, to the prejudice of the merchants at Assumption, whose complaints produced two decrees; the one apprizing the chief priest of Paraguay of the exorbitant quantity of matte which its padres had traded in; the other prohibiting the Indians from carrying more than twelve thousand arrobas annually to that city.

Each of the reduçōes, otherwise called missions, was a considerable town, laid out with straight streets. The houses, generally of earth, were whitened, covered with tiles, and had verandas on each side, in order to preserve them from the sun and rain. On seeing one, a correct idea might be formed of the whole. Each mission had only a mother church, generally of stone, magnificent[137] and richly ornamented, some being entirely gilded. A vicar and a curate, both Jesuits, were the only ecclesiastics exercising the parochial functions, being, at the same time, inspectors of all civil economy; under whose direction there were magistrates, (corregedores,) elected annually; a cacique, or chief, elected for life; and other officers, each with his jurisdiction. With the exception of these, every individual of both sexes wore a shirt reaching to the ancles, usually of white cotton. They cultivated matte, the cotton tree, and such provisions as prospered best in the country. The whole was deposited in warehouses, from whence it was distributed daily to the people. Each family received an ounce of matte, four pounds of meat, and a certain measure of Indian corn, and more if it was judged necessary. All passed under the review of the magistrates or of other subordinate persons. The curates lived commodiously, near to their churches, and contiguous to their dwellings were two spacious houses; one destined for schools of reading, painting, architecture, music, and having shops for different manual occupations; the other was a recolhimento, or receptacle for a great number of young girls, who were engaged in different works, under the inspection of matronly women, already instructed. The women received on Monday a certain portion of cotton, which they were to return in the spun state on Saturday. The curate, accompanied by certain officers and masters, went daily at eight o’clock to visit the schools and shops. The signal of the last Avi Marias was also that of the rosario, or counting of beads, at which all assisted.

All superfluities were exported, with a large quantity of tallow, hides, and matte, and with the proceeds they paid the capitations, and obtained in return requisite European articles.

Such was the condition of the reduçōes, or missions, which constituted the pretended Guaranitic state, in 1768, when the Jesuits were expelled and their people delivered over to the direction of the Dominicans, Franciscans, and Mercenarians. The last is an order of friars instituted in Arragon by King James for the redemption of captives.

The Marquis of Bucarelli, governor of Buenos Ayres, wishing to go personally, accompanied by the best troops of Europe which he could collect in that capital, to execute the orders of his sovereign relative to the missions, which were repugnant to the feelings of the Indians, wrote, before he commenced his march, to all the vicars to send to him the chief (cacique) and head magistrate of each mission, in order that he might communicate to them[138] advices from his Majesty. On their arrival at Buenos Ayres he unjustly retained them as hostages, with a view of obviating any difficulty that might arise. In Yapegú, which is the first mission, was presented to him the celebrated chief, Nicolau, who in Europe passed for the sovereign of the Guaranitic republic, and who was not able to proceed in the train of the others, in consequence of the infirmities of old age, being then seventy. The Europeans and their descendants began to frequent the missions, and the Indians to have mutual relations with them, and to learn from them many of the most familiar words, also some relaxation from the more correct morals and manners of the Jesuits. The population, in consequence, soon began to diminish, as well as the neatness and cleanliness of their houses and temples.

Mountains.—In the northern part there is the serra of Maracaju, which is of trifling altitude; and the Lambara, in the vicinity of the capital, also not of remarkable elevation, although it exceeds in height all those that encompass it.

Rivers and Lakes.—Besides the three great rivers that limit this province, there are many others which water the interior, and some of them navigable for a considerable distance.

The Gualeguay, which has a course of more than one hundred and forty miles, empties itself into the Uruguay, a few leagues above the Negro, after having watered a level country, rich in cattle, corn, and fruit trees.

The Mirinay, which also runs into the Uruguay, fifty miles below the Ibicui, is considerable, and runs through an extensive country, stocked with large cattle.

The Taquary, seventy miles long, empties itself also into the Uruguay, ninety miles below the preceding.

The Jaguare, rising in the Serra Maracaju, runs into the Paranna, twelve leagues below the Setequedas (Seven Falls).

According to a map of the country, which does not appear a bad one, the Acarahy is the first considerable river which enters the Paranna by the right bank, seventy miles below the Setequedas.

The Tibiquary, which is considerable, disembogues into the Paraguay ninety miles above the confluence of the Paranna. The Cannabé, after a course of one hundred miles, enters the Paraguay fifty miles north of the Tibiquary.

The lake Ibera, otherwise Caracares, is pretty considerable, and approximates the left margin of the Paranna; it has some islands, and its neighbouring lands are marshy. Charts do not accord as to its size: some give it one hundred and fifty miles in length, and little less in width; others, ninety in length,[139] and twenty in width; they agree that it communicates with the Uruguay by the Mirinay, and with the Paraguay by the Correntes, which empties itself near thirty-five miles below St. Luzia. It is also said to communicate in two parts with the Paranna. The lake Jagapé, which is large, and surrounded with woods, is near the northern bank of the Paranna, about sixty miles above the town of Itaty.

Phytology.—The cedar, which is of various sorts, the páu d’arco, (bow wood,) sassafras, with many other trees of fine timber for building; the pine tree, and those which afford a resin denominated the blood of the dragon, and the oil of cupahiba; the ipecacuanha, jalap, rhubarb, and other medicinal plants; the opuncia, pine-apple, orange, banana, and mamoe, of which last tree there are male and female; the male bears no fruit but only flowers, the female bears fruit and no flowers.

The vegetable matte is a large shrub or bush, with leaves similar to an orange tree, and tastes of mallows; it is said the serra Maracaju produces the best. It is usual not to wait for the leaves falling, but they are plucked, and then dried by some of the most approved methods, generally upon hides between two fires. This plant is taken almost like tea, and the use of this beverage has prevailed from time immemorial amongst the Indians of the northern part of this province. It was they who introduced it amongst the first inhabitants of Assumption.

Zoology.—This province is prodigiously abundant in cattle, horses, and mules; sheep are numerous, but goats few. There is a sufficiency of hogs for the consumption of the inhabitants. Amongst the wild quadrupeds are remarked the ounce, the deer, the monkey, the fox, the rabbit, the cat, the tamandua, quaty, zorrilha, or squash, the tatous, or armadillo, paca, cotia, and the boar. Of birds, the emu ostrich, the seriema, jaburu, cegonha, garca, mutun, jacu, colhereira, urubu, tucano, rola, troquaze pigeons, the parrot, codornize, or quail, beija-flor, or humming-bird, the guiraponga, and the partridge. There are also a diversity of wild ducks and geese.

The principal povoações are, Assumpçao, or Assumption, Correntes, Coruguaty, and Villa Rica.

Assumpçao, an episcopal city, is in a state of mediocrity, possessing some commerce. It is the capital and the residence of the governor, and is situated upon the margin of the Paraguay, which daily washes away a part of the ground upon which it is built. It is ornamented with a hospital, with convents of the[140] Dominicans, Franciscans, Mercenarians, Recoletos, (rigid friars,) and a seminary which was a Jesuitical college. This city has no regularity nor fine edifices; the greater part of the houses are built of earth, and many of the inhabitants of its three parishes are descended from the Portuguese. From hence is exported tobacco, imbe, timber, and a prodigious quantity of matte to Buenos Ayres, where it is afterwards packed in hides, and distributed over various Spanish districts, being a beverage universally used amongst them, as well as by the Portuguese in the southern parts of Brazil. In its environs are bred numerous herds of large cattle. There are plantations of cotton and the cane. Honey and wax are abundant. They cultivate also, as in other parts, aipim, or pompim, as it is called here, which root, after being scraped, chopped, and dried in the oven, is cooked with meat, serving for bread. The maize, or Indian corn, after it is boiled, and beat in a pestle, is passed through a sifter, kneaded with milk, and baked, when it receives the name of chippa.

The bishop is a suffragan of La Plata, otherwise chuquissaca. The chapter of the church, as in all other ultramarine cathedrals of the Spanish states, is composed of twelve canons, including the moderator of the Inquisition, five dignitaries, the dean, archdeacon, chanter, treasurer-mór, and master of the college; also six petty canons to sing the Evangelists, and as many more half petty canons for the Epistles, whose vestments differ little from the others. The canons of theology, doctorial, magisterial, and penitentiary, only give graduates, and that by competition. The revenue of the suppressed canonship is destined for the expenses of the tribunal of the holy office.

There are two tribunals, one called the Junta Decimal, for the public disposal of the decimos, and consisting of two canons, a royal fiscal, a minister clothed with a toga, or gown, an accountant, and an escrivao, or scrivener. The other denominated Meza Capitular, for the collection and distribution of the proceeds of the decimos, is formed of a provisor, or vicar-general, a canon, acting at times as a fiscal, the contador-mor, or chief accountant of the treasury, and another accountant to make the distribution or rates.

All the produce of the decimos is appropriated to the church. In calculating this, the chief accountant of the treasury divides it into nine equal parts; one and a half, under the name of noveno e medio, belongs to the crown, and is destined for the repairs and other necessities of the church; and which the sovereign, as patron, gives by way of succour. Of the other seven and a half parts, one-half is for the bishop, whose duty is to relieve the necessities of[141] the diocesans, especially the poor ones, collected in the house erected for their habitation, because none of them are permitted to solicit alms pelas portas, at the doors.

The residue is divided into three equal fifths, one for the dean, the remainder subdivided anew into three, two are distributed amongst the other dignitaries and the canons, with arithmetical proportion. The part remaining is portioned equally amongst the petty canons, and the half petty canons, or chaplains. The priests of the cities are denominated reytors, or rectors, and those of the towns, vigarios, or vicars. The padres only of the Indians have revenues, (congrua,) drawn from the coffers where the produce of the Indian lands that are sold, and the rents of the emprazadas, (persons paying an annual fine for lands bought,) are deposited. They receive nothing from the parishioners, except for the solemnization of burials.

The priests of the churches of the whites (brancos) alone have the altarage, (or free offerings of the people made at the altar,) and the productions of the patrimonies with which they were founded.

The churches are given after a competition of talent exhibited before the bishop. The competitors are convoked by him and the vice-patron, who is the governor, and without whose consent nothing can be decided in these cases. In order to fill up a vacancy, the bishop proposes three, the choice from which belongs to the vice-patron, if he does not reject the whole, and demand a proposal of others for his choice.

Correntes is a small city, advantageously situate in the southern angle of the confluence of the river Paranna, ornamented with a convent of Dominicans, one of Franciscans, and a third of Mercenarians, having straight streets, and many houses with one story. The Jesuitical house is in ruins. Amongst its inhabitants, there are some Portuguese, many Indians, and a few negroes. In its vicinity there is much marshy land, and very extensive woods. Cattle and horses are the wealth of the country. Mandubins, Indian corn, vegetables, water-melons, and cotton, are the objects of culture. The land is neither adapted for wheat nor matte. The ants and locusts, which are extremely numerous, destroy the mandioca, and prevent its cultivation. The pitangueira, or pitangua tree, is very abundant; peaches are not met with. The imbagay is a fruit similar to the mango, but something smaller, and found from hence northward. Hides and timber are the principal articles of exportation. Mosquitoes are extremely troublesome here.

Justice is daily administered by two alcaldes, or magistrates, assisted by two assessores, or lawyers. The four are elected annually by a judicial cabildo, composed of twenty-four governors for perpetuity, except in the event of delinquency; four of whom are principals, namely the royal ensign, the deacon, an officer called the aguazil maior, and the provincial alcalde. The others are ordinaries, each with his inspection, presided by an assessor-general, called tenente assessor, (lieutenant assessor.) There is an advocate named by the audiencia, or audience-court of the province, for the purpose of defending gratis the causes of the poor, or those who do not possess a patrimony of a certain value, and also of prisoners, although they may be rich.

Ten leagues to the north of Correntes is the parish of Nehembuçu, on the margin of the Paraguay, where they build boats and different sorts of vessels. Thirty leagues to the south of Correntes is situated the village and parish of St. Luzia, also upon the margin of the Paraguay; in its district there is gesso, a species of plaster, which forms a branch of exportation. In this interval are the parishes of Algarrobas, Esquina, and Goya, abounding sufficiently in meat and fish.

Bagada de St. Fé, and commonly called Paranna, is a small village situated upon the Paraguay, in front of St. Fé, in view of an island of considerable extent. From hence is exported a good deal of limestone.

Coruguaty is a middling town, and celebrated for the large quantity of matte collected in its district, of which it is the deposit. It is situated about thirty leagues to the north-east of Assumption, and three miles distant from the left margin of the river from which it borrows the name.

Five leagues to the north of it is the prezidio or garrison of St. Miguel, established in order to obstruct the invasions of the Guaycuru Indians.

Villa Rica, where also is accumulated large quantities of matte, lying twenty leagues to the south-east of Assumption, is yet small. There is another place of the same name on the borders of the Paraguay, to the north of the capital.

Arroio da China is a middling town, situated on the banks of the Uruguay, more than thirty leagues above its embouchure. Its inhabitants, mainly white people, breed cattle and cultivate corn and fruit.

Itaty is a small town, but regular, and well situated upon the southern bank of the Paranna, about thirty leagues above Correntes. Its inhabitants consist of Indians and some white people; a portion occupy themselves[143] in potteries, and others in forming plantations of the cotton tree. The soil and climate are adapted for oranges and water-melons, which prosper abundantly.

Candellaria, which took the name from its magnificent church, as did almost all the reduçōes of the pretended Guaranitic kingdom, or the missions of the Paranna, of which it was always considered the capital, in consequence of its superior size and population. It is situate upon the left bank of the river Paranna, where it inclines to the west, near the mouth of a small river.

Corpus, also on the left margin of the same river, is fifteen leagues to the north of Candellaria, and is the most northern of the missions, situated upon the Paranna, and one of the handsomest in the province.

Between the two preceding are situated those of St. Gosme, St. Anna, St. Gosme Velho, Nosso Senhora do Loreto, and St. Ignaçio Menor, (the smaller.) This last is three leagues above the preceding one, and four below Corpus.

The Padre Xarque, says the reduções of Nosso Senhora do Loreto and St. Ignaçio Menor, were founded for the establishments of the twelve thousand Indians, which the Jesuits conducted from the Upper Paranna, when the Paulistas invaded the country.

Itu, upon the same margin of the Paranna, is fifteen leagues to the west of Candellaria.

Assumpçao is fifteen leagues, with little variation, to the south-west of Corpus, near the mouth of a small river that loses itself in the Uruguay.

Conceiçao is situated sixteen leagues to the south of the preceding one, and little more than three leagues distant from the river Uruguay.

St. Thomas is fifteen leagues distant, in a southern direction, from Conceiçao.

St. Maria Maior is a few leagues to the north of Conceiçao, also upon the margin of the Uruguay.

Apostolos is little more than six leagues to the west of Conceiçao, upon the road which leads towards Itu; and twenty miles further in the same direction upon this road St. Carlos is situated.

St. Francisco Xavier is a few leagues to the north of St. Maria, and to the east of Candellaria. In this interval Martyres is situated.

Itapuan is on the right bank of the Paranna, to the north of Candellaria. Trinidade is eight leagues to the north of Itapuan. St. Ignaçio Guassu (the[144] larger) is near the head of a branch of the river Tibiquary. It is the most ancient of the whole.

St. Fé is five leagues to the north-east of St. Ignaçio Guassu. The mission of Jesus is four leagues to the north-north-west of Trinidad.

St. Roza is six leagues to the east of St. Ignaçio Guassu; St. Gosme four leagues to the south-east of St. Roza.

St. Tiago is eight leagues to the north of Itu; and Yapegu, which is the most southern, and amongst the largest of the missions, is situated near the Uruguay, a little below the confluence of the Ibicui, and half a league to the north of the river Guavirida. The Jesuits had a college here richly ornamented.

In the beginning of the seventeenth century, the Spanish Jesuits entered the territory to the east of the river Uruguay, and there founded seven large villages, called reduçōes, for the habitation of various hordes of Tappes, the possessors of the country, in order the better to civilize and bring them to Christianity, by the same means as were practised with those of the Paranna. It has been already stated, that, in the treaty of limits of 1750, the exchange of these missions for Colonia do Sacramento was agreed upon by their Faithful and Catholic Majesties; and also, that the Jesuits frustrated its execution in the first instance, and that, on the sudden return to Rio de Janeiro, of Gomes Freyre d’Andrade, in 1756, things soon reverted to their anterior state.

These reduçōes, which made a part of the spiritual Jesuitical kingdom, flourished to the period of the expulsion of their founders, when they began to decay, and thirty-four years of deterioration, by imperceptible degrees, could not have transformed the whole more effectually; in which state they were, in effect, at the beginning of the present century, when the declaration of war between the two crowns in Europe, caused the arming of the inhabitants of the capitania of Rio Grande de St. Pedro, who, since the peace of 1777, had lived in tranquillity.

Almost at the same time that the Portuguese troops of the town of St. Pedro passed the river of St. Gonçalo, in 1801, against the Spanish posts, in the vicinity of the western margin of the lake of Patos, a corps of Portuguese[146] militia and deserters, attracted by the amnesty, were put in motion upon the frontiers of the river Pardo; amongst the latter of which appeared Joze Borges do Canto, a native of the country, and who had deserted from a regiment of dragoons. He immediately offered to go and commence hostilities in the Spanish territories, on being granted some comrades and the necessary arms. Ammunition only was conceded to him, with the liberty of assembling such people together as would join his standard. Having formed a battalion of forty men, armed at their own expense, he marched direct to the missions of Uruguay, and, encountering on the road a known Indian, who was retiring discontented from the Spaniards, he received from him the certain intelligence that the Indians, on hearing of the war, would not hesitate to subject themselves to the crown of Portugal, as almost all the Indian population lived unhappily under their present government. Canto persuaded the Indian to return, and announce to his compatriots the opportunity which was now presented of freeing themselves from the Spanish yoke, and of passing under the protection of the Faithful Crown, and to inform them, that he would afford all necessary assistance. The Indian, convinced of this, accompanied them to within sight of St. Miguel, where there was a lieutenant-colonel, commanding a trench which he had formed in apprehension of an attack from the Portuguese.

Having arrived thus far at day-break, Canto sent the Indian forward by a bye-way, with orders to bring him what information he could, to a certain situation, whither he should continue to march. As the place was very near to the trench, Canto and his party were discovered by the sentinel, who called out to arms. Under these circumstances, Canto saw himself obliged to advance without order against the entrenched, who were in greater disorder; and after discharging a few shots they abandoned the fortification, retiring to the town, where the commandant was, and leaving this intrepid squadron masters of the trench, with ten pieces of artillery.

The commandant supposing himself to be attacked by a great number of another class of combatants, offered a capitulation to the chief of the conquerors, who willingly conceded almost all that was asked, in order that the Spaniards might leave the country before a reinforcement arrived, or before they knew that it was only forty adventurers, without any corps of reserve, from whom they had fled. The commandant was a good deal perplexed, at the execution of the articles of capitulation, when Canto, being asked for his[147] degree of rank, replied that he was the lowest soldier in the Portuguese army. At this time the Indians of the place had already united with the Portuguese, and the adjustment of the treaty was indispensable.

The Spaniards on retiring experienced the misfortune of falling into the hands of a similar party, who took them prisoners, and all that was conceded to them, against which the commandant protested, and demanded the fulfilment of the capitulation. The Spanish officer called upon Canto for an adjustment, who replied, that he could not interfere, inasmuch as the party were not subordinate to him, but that he would report the affair to the governor of Rio Grande, and all that he ordered should be executed; the party in the mean time remaining prisoners.

The governor, on receiving the account, ordered Canto to fulfil the capitulation, excepting the article that gave up the artillery; which, he said, ought to belong to his Royal Highness, and to whom he had given a detail of Canto’s valorous deeds, in order that he might be rewarded. In the mean time he made him captain of a new company of militia; and the person who brought the standard a lieutenant, giving him too the liberty of naming for ensign one of his brave companions.

As soon as the people of the other missions had witnessed the comportment of Canto towards the first that had submitted to him, almost all hastened to acknowledge the Faithful Crown. The happy conqueror released them from some public contributions, which were the most heavy upon them, and, freely giving up to them the fruits of their labour, received the name of Liberator.

Shortly after the governor sent Major Joaquim Felis to govern the conquest, with orders to confer with Canto, upon the state of affairs. Having delivered the new province to the commandant, and received a good reinforcement of regular troops, with some militia and volunteers from the serra above, he obtained permission of the governor to pass to the other side of the Uruguay; for which purpose some barks of skins were made according to the fashion of the country.

In the night of the 1st of November, eighty men, chosen from the army, passed the river, amongst whom figured some grenadiers of the regiment of Estremoz; and whose chief was a brave ensign, well known by his surname of Padilha. Part of them took up a position in a wood; others proceeded a little way up the river, keeping near its banks, in order to give more prompt succour to the first on the signal of attack, which began in the morning, against those[148] who first entered the plain. The assailants, together with thirty Spaniards, who came to their succour, were put to flight, but immediately returned in larger numbers, with three field pieces, with which they laboured to open out both their wings. However, the Portuguese did not give them time for a second discharge, but falling intrepidly upon them, they put them to the rout, taking their cannon, nine prisoners, and leaving fifteen dead upon the field.

On the 23d of the same month, almost at midnight, a cannon was discharged in the Passo dos Barros, which is about three leagues below St. Borja, where it was heard; and from whence afterwards arrived an Indian, living in that neighbourhood, with information to the Portuguese, that the Spaniards were stationed in the woods, near the same pass. They remained the rest of the night under arms. The following morning Captain Joze Borges do Canto put himself in march for this point, with his company and some others, amounting to one hundred and ten men; and finding the Spaniards entrenched in the woods on the banks of the river, and not discovering any advantageous mode of attacking them, sent his lieutenant with thirty men dressed in white according to the Indian fashion, which marching at a great distance from the Spaniards, and having gained their rear, began firing upon them. The first discharges were the signal for the captain to invest the fortification, which was abandoned without any resistance, the Spaniards leaving seventy-four prisoners.

Such was the success of the campaign, on the part of the Portuguese, in this district, and the mode by which the Portuguese crown possessed itself of the province of the Seven Missions, which made a part of that of Rio Grande de St. Pedro, until a governor was named to it. It is confined on the north by that of St. Paulo; on the west by that of Paranna; and on the south and east by the province of Rio Grande de St. Pedro.

Mountains.—St. Martinho, the most elevated portion of the serra, which serves for its eastern limits, and the mountain of St. Luiz, in the vicinity of the town of its name, are the most remarkable mountains.

Rivers.—Besides the Uruguay and Ibicui, already mentioned, is to be remarked the Hyjuhy, which originates at the base of the mountain of St. Martinho, traverses the province from east to west, empties itself into the Uruguay in front of Assumption, and a few leagues to the north of St. Nicolau, having passed near St. Angelo, a little below which the Hyjuhy-mirim enters it on the left side.

The Toropy rises in the same cordillera and falls into the Ibicui. The Jaquari[149] waters a considerable portion of this province, and falls into the Ibicui four or five leagues below the Forquilha. The Hibipita enters the Ibicui also twenty leagues below the preceding.

The Piratini forms itself in the vicinity of the said serra, passes a short distance from St. Miguel, and runs into the Uruguay a little below St. Nicolau.

Phytology.—The Brazilian pine and the cedar are not numerous. The cotton tree, the matte, and mandioca, also Indian corn, wheat, potatoes, with other edible roots, are cultivated; likewise, gourds, water-melons, pine-apples, and divers hortulans; and, among fruit trees, the orange, pitangua, and peach.

Zoology.—The animals, both domestic and wild, are the same as those of the adjoining provinces.

The Tappes are a horde of Guaranis, which separated from the latter in former times, and lived for a long period upon the banks of the higher Paranna, where they were at times invaded by the others. It is, however, certain that they occupied the southern part of this province when the Jesuits began to have a knowledge of them. They were esteemed a people, not only less vicious than all other tribes in South America, but the best disposed to receive the evangelical law, most constant after having embraced it, and the best adapted to honour Christianity. These people lived divided into various villages, of which the most populous had the name of the nation. It is not known what were the number of those villages, which the Jesuits reduced to seven; and on this account were denominated reduçōes, or reductions, also missions. The names of these seven celebrated missions, are the following, with the number of inhabitants in each at the period of their conquest by the Portuguese in 1801:—

St. Francisco de Borja, which is the most southern, is two miles distant from the Uruguay, and five leagues from the confluence of Ibicui. It suffered[150] much by an invasion from the Minuanos, a little before changing its dominion. It has many white people.

St. Miguel, situated twenty-five leagues distant from the Uruguay, and thirty east-north-east from St. Borja, is the most easterly, and is considered the capital of the province. A great portion of it was consumed by fire, which its inhabitants set to it in 1756, when they saw the combined armies arriving in order to deliver the province up to the Portuguese crown.

St. Joam is three leagues north of St. Miguel. Its mother church is in the centre of a vast square. In the time of its prosperity it had forty streets.

St. Angelo, which is the most northerly, is six leagues to the north of St. Joam.

St. Nicolau, formerly capital of the various reductions upon the right bank of the Uruguay, is situated near that river and a small brook which falls into the Paratini.

St. Luiz is upon the road which goes from St. Lourenço to St. Nicolau, nine leagues to the east of the latter place, and ten to the west of the former. All these reductions, otherwise missions, and which we ought to call towns, as they have a senate, took the name of the patron of their mother churches. The whole were and yet are upon the same plan, the houses of earth, with straight streets, and verandas on the sides, which protect them against the rain and heat, similar to the missions of the Paranna, with which in equal steps they reached a flourishing condition, and fell with them into a state of decay.

Each place has its peculiar Guaranitic dialect, differing little from the others. Many of these Indians understand the Spanish and Portuguese, and express themselves tolerably well in both languages. They exercise almost all the requisite manual occupations and various mechanical arts with intelligence; likewise manufacture coarse woollens and cottons. Matte is the only article of exportation.

In each mission, when governed by the Jesuits, there was a school for reading, writing, and speaking the Spanish language by royal order. There were many Indians who could read Spanish books which they did not understand, as the masters or curates artfully refrained from uttering a word to them, but in Guaranitic. In consequence of which, these crafty preceptors were charged to fulfil the royal determination, by a decree of 1743, but which decree had not the desired effect.

This province, which is a dismemberment of that of St. Paulo, subsequent to the latter receiving the addition of a part of St. Amaro and of St. Vincente, comprehends the island which gives it the name, and a territory of sixty leagues from north to south on the neighbouring continent, reckoning from the Sahy, which separates it from St. Paulo on the north, to the Mampituba, which divides it from the province of Rio Grande on the south; on the west it has the same provinces, the heads of the cordillera, running parallel with the sea, constituting a boundary on that side. Its greatest width does not exceed twenty leagues, occupying the Beira-Mar, or sea-coast, of the greatest portion of the ci-devant capitania of St. Amaro; and lying between 25° 50′, and 29° 20′ south latitude.

A period of one hundred and twenty years elapsed without the donatories establishing any colonists in the island of St. Catharina, which, for some time had the name of Isle of Patos. King John IV. gave it, in the year 1654, to Francisco Dias Velho, who was assassinated by an English pirate at the time the establishment began. In consequence of this disaster, the island long remained in its primitive state. Eventually, various colonists from the Azores were established in it, at the cost of the crown.

The climate is delightfully temperate and salubrious, with the exception of certain marshy situations. The face of the country is mountainous, watered by numerous rivers, and overspread with woods. The soil is fertile and well adapted to the culture of mandioca, Indian corn, rice, sugar, coffee, flax, and vegetables. Wheat and barley are likewise grown in some districts. All the hortulans of the south of Europe prosper here, particularly onions.

Mountains.—Camberella, which is upon the southern entrance of the port[152] of the capital, is the highest mountain seen from Santo to the Torres[18] or Towers. The mountain of Bahul is a land-mark for navigators.

Mineralogy.—Calcareous stones, granite, pedras d’amolar, or whetstone. It is said there are indications of gold and other metals.

Phytology.—The oak tree is here more diversified than in the mother country, and excellent for building. The sassafras, cedar, loiro, pau d’arco, and those called guarabu and grapecique, are trees of precious wood, well adapted for cabinet work; likewise the tree denominated here pau d’oleo, having the grain close and nicely waved. The Brazilian pine is numerous in various districts. There are a diversity of medicinal plants; likewise the plant that nurtures the cochineal, which has been fully described by many writers. It is an insect, and feeds upon the leaves of the opuncia; its size is so diminutive at first, that it scarcely can be seen, but it soon moves and fixes upon a part of the plant, from which it does not remove, and becomes gradually covered with a white skin, so that the body, which is scarlet, is no longer seen. In three months it arrives at maturity, and is not larger than a small pea; there are various modes of cultivating it, and great care is required to keep off other insects which destroy it. This is an article of considerable commerce and might be cultivated to a great extent in the Brazil.

Zoology.—Cattle do not abound in consequence of the mountainous nature of the country. Amongst other wild quadrupeds, are well known the deer, the tamandua, the monkey, the boar, the ounce, the anta, the paca, and the quaty. Amongst numerous species of birds are remarked the parrot, the macuco partridge, the rola, or turtle, the guara, and various sorts of the humming bird called colibri, or beija-flor. The lakes abound with wild ducks and geese. An infinite variety of beautiful butterflies are seen in this province, to delight the eye, and engage the research of the naturalist. The air appears filled with floating flowers.

Rivers, Lakes, and Ports.—The first are generally of a short extent. About three miles north-north-east of the Towers is the mouth of the Mampituba, about one hundred fathoms wide, which was called for some time the Martim Affonso. It is not more than seven leagues long, being formed of various streams that descend from the cordillera; its current is violent, but sumacas, or smacks, ascend with the tide twelve miles to the port of Forquilhas. By[153] its northern margin it receives the waters of a lake, which is about five leagues long, and one broad, extending parallel with the sea-coast as far as the Campos das Lagoinhas, from thence it has another outlet to the sea, by a channel called Arroyo Grande.

Near the situation denominated the Conventos, there is a serro of rock moderately elevated, and terminating in a platform near the beach, about six leagues distant from the Mambituba. Six miles further, the river Ararangua enters the sea, and is navigable for the space of five leagues to the Tres Portos, where it is one hundred fathoms wide, and deeper than at the bar, having a rapid current from the month of June to September. Three leagues beyond the preceding, the river Urussanga disembogues, being more extensive, and much more rapid when its waters are high; no vessel can enter its mouth, in consequence of the sea breaking with great violence upon a bank which crosses it. Higher up it is wider, and has four fathoms of depth in some places. This river communicates with a large and deep lake, where the boto and other large fish are seen, which come up from the ocean; it lies northward of the river. Five leagues further is the rock of St. Martha, where the coast changes its direction to the north. Three leagues to the north of the Morro, or rock of St. Martha, is the spacious bay of Laguna, formerly the river Da Lagoa, (of the Lake) which is the mouth of the river Tubarao, and together the outlet of various lakes, prolonged in a chain parallel with the ocean, and at no considerable distance from it. This river rises in the serra that bounds this province, and its current is rapid from April to September. Canoes proceed up it a distance of eight or nine leagues to Porto da Guarda; but sumacas do not pass the mouth of the river Capibary, which joins it by the left bank, and is navigable for a space of eight leagues to Pouzo Alto. On the northern margin of the Tubarao is the outlet of the great lake Laguna, which is five leagues long from north to south, near two at the greatest width, and is of sufficient depth for sumacas, as far as its northern extremity. On the southern bank of the Tubarao, in front of the outlet of the Laguna, is that of the lake of St. Martha, which lake is a quarter of a league square. On its southern side the lake Garopaba discharges itself, is about the same size, and one league distant. Into the latter the outlet of the lake Jaguaruna disembogues, which is two leagues further to the southward, and a little larger. The three together afford a passage to large canoes, as far as the river Congonhas, which is not considerable, and empties itself into the western margin of the latter lake. They are comprehended under the name of the lakes of Camacho, and abound in fish.

On the western side of the Laguna, and near its northern extremity, the river Una discharges itself, and affords navigation to canoes for some leagues, as far as the rock of St. Joam. An arm of this river extends a league and a half to the north, is deep, and terminates in a morass.

In front of the embouchure of the Laguna is the small island of Lobos. Four leagues to the north is the point and port of the Embituba, and two farther is the mouth of the river Piraquera, which is the outlet of the lake of the same name, otherwise Encantada, four miles long and one wide.

Continuing onward, the river Embahu is met with, which at its mouth is only eight fathoms wide, but it gradually increases to more than eighty fathoms; canoes can proceed up during a day’s voyage.

Two miles farther to the north is the point of Pinheira, which is followed by the gulf of the same name, being the southern entrance to the channel of the island of St. Catharina; its southern extremity is a league to the north of the said point.

Near six miles to the north of Point Pinheira, the Massambu disembogues, being thirty fathoms wide, and of considerable depth, but of short extent: Rio Dom Rodrigo was its first designation. After it follows a small bay, called Brito, and a little farther is the entrance of the river Cubatao, sixty fathoms wide, up which larger canoes proceed during two days’ voyage. In the proximity of this river there are various fountains of hot water, having different degrees of heat: the most distant one, situated five leagues up the river, possesses one hundred and two degrees.

After passing various small rivers, the river Maruhy is met with, as large as the preceding one, and navigable to the place denominated Guarda. Near this river is the bay of St. Joze. A little to the north is a straight, which divides the channel into two almost equal parts; and a little farther is the entrance of the river Biguassu, fifty fathoms in width, and up which canoes proceed for many leagues. The first discoverers called it the river of Patos, in consequence of its constituting a limit between the Indians of that name, who extended themselves as far as the St. Pedro, and the Carijos to the north as far as Cannanea.

The large bay of St. Miguel follows; afterwards, the point of Armacao; and, farther on, that of Ganchos, which lies east and west of the extremity of the island of St. Catharina, and is to the southward of the spacious bay of Tejucas, at the farther end of which the river of the same name discharges itself, being fifty fathoms wide, and affording two days’ navigation. The surrounding country of the bay of Tejucas is a morass or marshy[155] plain in the winter, when its passage is attended with great labour and inconvenience.

To the north of the preceding is the bay of Guaroupas, open to the north-east, not so large, but sufficiently sheltered and capacious for the reception of a squadron of ships; the river Bupeba runs into it, as well as the two Pireques. The intervening land of those two bays is a peninsula, which extends to the sea, terminating in three points, and forming two small bays.

Proceeding northward, the next river is the Cambory-Guassu, rapid at its entrance into the sea, and being twenty fathoms in width. Nearly three leagues farther is the embouchure of the great river Tajahy, which is little less than sixty fathoms in width at the passage a short distance from the beach. It is the only river met with on the road from Portalegre to St. Paulo that flows towards the east; the sumacas proceed up only three miles, launches and large canoes navigate freely as far as the first fall. About one hundred and twenty yards above it becomes navigable for the space of three days, by towing, and as many more with the oar, to the next cataract. It rises between the river Negro and the Correntes, (which run to westward.) In its neighbourhood there are many small mountains. The principal confluents which enlarge it are the Rio de Luiz Alves (which comes from the north-west, runs near the mountain of Bahul, seen from the sea at a great distance, and is navigable for small canoes) and the Tajahy Mirim, which runs from the south-west, navigable for canoes about ten leagues. The whole flow through countries of great fertility.

Five miles farther to the north is the river Gravata, otherwise Iriri-Guassu, thirty fathoms wide, and navigable for canoes. It is followed by the spacious bay of Itapacoroya, where there is an establishment for whale fishing. Proceeding onwards, the Iriri Mirim and the Camboriu are met with, up which canoes also navigate with the aid of the tide. Near to the latter is the Tajuba, a river of a similar class.

Three leagues to the north of the Itapacoroya the river Itapicu disembogues, being fifty fathoms wide, and of considerable depth. Its origin is far back in the province, and affords navigation to small canoes for many leagues, without the interruption of more than one cataract, which is situated ten miles above the mouth. The agitated state of the sea at the mouth of this river does not permit the entrance of any description of vessel. Immediately beyond the bar it forms a lake, called Lagoa da Cruz, two leagues long from north to south, parallel with the beach, and very narrow. Among the rivers which enlarge it are remarked the Piranga, which is received by the left bank, and is navigable[156] by canoes for a space of five leagues; the Upitanga, which joins it by the right margin, and is only navigable for six miles; the Itapicu Mirim, that comes from the north-west and admits of navigation for about fifteen miles; the Jaragua, which flows from the south-west, and appears capable of allowing small vessels to proceed as far as a situation about four leagues above its mouth; and the Braço, which descends from the north-west, and admits of canoes for the space of six miles. All these rivers run by winding courses among mountains and uncultivated territories, thickly wooded, demonstrating the natural fertility of the soil. The Itapicu is supposed to be the river of Dragons, which the discoverers placed to the south of the river St. Francisco in this district.

Five miles to the north of Itapicu is the island of St. Francisco, six leagues long, and in the form of a bow, the right line of which is nearest the coast; the channel which separates it from the continent is improperly called the river of St. Francisco. The southern entrance is denominated Aracary, is two hundred fathoms wide, has only depth for large boats, and on its outside are the three islands of Remedios and two of Tamboretes. The northern bar, called Babitonga, is fifteen hundred fathoms wide and deep enough for large sumacas.[19] At the end of the sixteenth century it was not known that the land between the bar of Aracary and Babitonga was an island; they were thought to be two mighty rivers, the southern called the St. Francisco and the northern the Alagado. The channel, or the pretended river St. Francisco, of a semicircular form, enlarges considerably from both mouths to the middle, where it is three miles wide, and contains a cluster of more than twenty islands. A great number of rivers empty themselves here. The nearest to the bar of Aracary is the Piraque, having a course of five leagues, five fathoms in width at the mouth, and affords navigation to canoes for three miles; next to it is the Pinheiros, still smaller; then the Paraty, which is thirty fathoms wide at the bar, two and a half in depth, and navigable for about a league. The little river Areas, narrow and deep, is navigable for two miles. The great river Areas, up which canoes proceed with the tide for some distance. The river Parannagua, whose origin approximates to that of the Pirango, an arm of the Itapicu: coasting vessels proceed up it a short way, large boats about two miles, and canoes nearly five miles. Next follow the Saguaçu; the two Erirys; the Cubatao Grande, twenty fathoms wide, three deep, and navigable for ten leagues to the high rock of Tromba; the Antonio Felis; the Ribeyrao; the Biguaçu; the Pyrabyréba;[157] the Cavalinhos, by which canoes proceed for a space of ten miles; the Tres-Barras, so called in consequence of being the common embouchure of the three rivers of Furtaenchente, St. Joam, and Tres Barras, the second only being considerable, (its principal confluents are the Maria Bachaara and the Farinhas, which come from the serra of Curytiba, and afford navigation to canoes;) the Barrancos, Bacuhy, Lamen, Batuby, Fornos, Fernandes, Barboza, and the two Jaugarunas, the smaller of which is nearest to the northern point of the bar of Babitonga. The nine last, and several of the others are small, being only of any note during the spring tides. The whole of these rivers generally run tamely between low banks, of a marshy nature, abounding with considerable numbers of the beautiful scarlet guara bird, which delight the eye of the navigators. In some of these rivers are found seed pearls of various colours, also large pearls of an imperfect kind.

The island of St. Francisco is low, watered with various small rivers, and inhabited; on its eastern side there is a narrow lake, ten miles long from north to south, denominated the river Acarahy; and near it another small one. Two leagues north of the bar of Babitonga is the river Sahy Mirim, and the same distance farther the Sahy Grande, both inconsiderable, uniting in one stream a little above their embouchures.

The greatest part of the population of this province is descended from families who came from the Azore Islands, for the purpose of colonizing it. Negroes are not numerous, and mesticos still less so. The aboriginal Patos, whose name the island at first had, penetrated into the continent. The Carijos were the first tribe understood by the Vincentistas, and hence their name was given in common to all domesticated Indians, of whatever nation.

Islands.—The only considerable islands are that which gives the name to the province and that of St. Francisco. The island of St. Catharina, upwards of thirty miles long from north to south, and from four to eight in width, is mountainous, abounding with water, yet in parts covered with woods, and does not want for stone or potters’ earth. Between its mountains there are some cultivated plains, of greater or less extent, and also many marshy situations. There are many bays, and they abound with shells. On the eastern side there is a lake two leagues long from north to south, deep in some places, and at a certain part so contracted that it appears like two, united by a neck fifty fathoms wide, having a large bridge. When in the winter it begins to inundate the adjacent low grounds, the inhabitants in the vicinity open a channel to discharge the overflowing water into a bay, situated at a little distance, and which is immediately filled up again by the flowing of the tide, when the current ceases, during which a great quantity of fish enter from the ocean. It consequently affords at all times an abundant supply. At its northern extremity, there is a small river called Vermelho, near which the best water-melons of the province are produced. To the south of the preceding, there are three other lakes: the Lagoinha Grande, the Pantano, and the Lagoinha de Leste. The whole are stored with the same fish as the first. Mandioca and flax are the principal articles of agriculture, which is generally exercised by white men, who also cultivate Indian corn, rice, coffee, vegetables, sugar, and some cotton, which is not of good quality. Some fruit trees from the south of Europe are here naturalized. Water-melons, pine-apples, and oranges are very abundant. The principal streams in this island are the Vermelho, the Ratones, which enters the sea two leagues north of the capital, and the Tavares, three miles south-east of the capital. The country, watered by the last river, produces the best melons in the province.

The channel which separates this island from the continent is far from being of uniform width, forming two large ports, almost equal in size, and separated by a straight of two hundred fathoms between two points. The northern and larger port, ten miles wide, having depth for ships of war, is one of the best in South America, and the key to the southern ocean. The wind prevails from the south during the winter, which commences generally in May and ends in October. Thunder-storms are frequent in the summer; all the afternoons here are refreshed by strong sea breezes, rendering the climate of this island equal to any in the world.

Near to the southern point of St. Catharina are six small islands. The three western ones are called the Papagúos, and the eastern the Tres Ismaos. The islands of Moleques, Campeche, Xavier, Aranhas, and Badejo are situated upon the eastern coast of the island of St. Catharina. Near its northern point are three, called the Moleques. Five miles north of the same point are the islands of Arvoredo and Galle. Within the principal port, amongst others, are the islands of Tomarim, near the coast of the continent, and the Ratones, almost in front of the river of the same name, both fortified. In the southern port are the islands of Cardos and Maruhy.

The town of Nosso Senhora do Desterro, the capital of the province, is considerable, populous, and situated on the western side of the island of St. Catharina, upon a bay a little to the east-south-east of the straight, on unequal land between two rocks, traversed by three small rivers, which are passed by various stone bridges. The streets are almost generally irregular, and the houses either of stone or wood. Besides a church, it has the chapels of Menino Deos, Our Lady of Rozario, a Terceira order of St. Francisco d’Assis, and a hospital of charity. The quarters of the troops are good. The senate is presided by a Juiz de Fora, and the youth are instructed by royal masters in the primitive letters and Latin, for whose benefit there is a tribute in rum. Potteries afford a branch of industry and commerce. Coarse cloths of linen and cotton, also a mixture of both, are manufactured.

The parish of Nosso Senhora das Necessidades, better known by the name of St. Antonio, is five miles north of the capital, and small, but its situation is particularly pleasant. The inhabitants cultivate sugar, mandioca, Indian corn, some flax, and various hortulans. A little more than three miles to the north is the bay Das Canavieiras (of canes or reeds.) Here the Spaniards disembarked in 1777, and took possession of the island without the least resistance.

The parish of Nosso Senhora da Conceiçao is situated about a league to the[160] east of the capital, upon a steep, a little distant from the large lake, enjoying an extensive view of the ocean. Its parishioners cultivate sugar and mandioca, with the other provisions of the country. In this district there is an establishment for whale fishing.

Two leagues to the south of the capital is the parish of Nosso Senhora da Lapa, situated near the mouth of a small river, in the recess of a semicircular bay, and in front of an island. It is commonly called Robeira, has abundance of fish, and the provisions of the country.

Laguna is a middling town, advantageously situated upon the eastern margin of the lake from which it derives the name. It is two miles from the bar, near a small hill, from whence descend excellent waters. The form of this place is quadrilateral, with three parallel streets, crossed by others, and a square at one side, in which the municipal house is situated. It has only one church, dedicated to St. Antonio dos Anjos, and a great part of the houses are of stone, some one story high, and whitened with the lime of shells. The inhabitants cultivate the usual productions of the country. The lake is stored with fish, and in the months of November and December a prodigious quantity of bagre (a long fish with a forked tail) enter it, supplying a lucrative branch of commerce. This town is sixty miles south of the capital. From its port, which receives coasting vessels, is exported farinha, rice, Indian corn, timber, and salt fish.

About fifteen miles north of Laguna, and near fifty south of the capital, is the parish of St. Anna, commonly known by the name of Villa Nova, a small place, pleasantly situated upon an elevation near the northern extremity of the same lake, with two ports, one called Porto da Embituba, sheltered on the south and east by a headland of the same name, where there is a small whale fishery, subject to the administration of that of Garopaba. The houses are generally of wood, although there is abundance of stone. Its inhabitants, amongst whom there are many macilentos, (meagre or spare,) cultivate the productions common to the country, and a large quantity of flax, having, consequently, more weavers of that article than any other place in the province. Onions are of an extraordinary size, and other hortulans of a fine quality.

The parish of Nosso Senhora do Rozario, which is upon the bay of Brito, between two small brooks, thirty-five miles north of St. Anna, and ten south of the capital, is yet small, and its parishioners cultivate mandioca, Indian corn, and sugar, and also are fishermen. In its district there are hot springs.

Four miles to the south-east of the capital, and one distant from the left bank[161] of the Maruhy, is the parish of St. Joze, upon a bay of the same name, with a pottery of glazed earthenware. The inhabitants grow the same articles as the preceding.

Eight miles north-west of the capital is the pleasant parish of St. Miguel, upon a bay so called, which forms a good roadstead. Its inhabitants cultivate and export a large quantity of rice and farinha, with some sugar. Near this place is the principal establishment for whale fishing.

The town of St. Francisco is of middling size, well supplied with fish and the provisions of the country, with houses mostly built of earth, and a handsome church of stone, dedicated to Our Lady da Graca. It is upon the western beach of the island of that name, about ten miles within the bar of Babitonga, upon level ground, and in a situation well calculated for commerce. Only two streets are paved. The inhabitants, generally whites, are very pale, and almost all farmers of mandioca. The cultivation of Indian corn, rice, sugar, coffee, and tobacco, which might be considerable, is at present very trifling. There are few persons who do not possess at least one canoe. Vessels are built here of good burden. Timber and cordage of imbe are the most important exportations next to farinha (flour of mandioca.)

This province, which makes a part of the bishopric of Rio de Janeiro, was till recently under the jurisdiction of the ouvidor of Portalegre, but is now governed by Senhor Alexandre Eloi Portelli.

This province, formed by the union of a part of the capitania of St. Amaro, with one half of that of St. Vincente, took the name which designates it in the year 1710, when John V. incorporating them with the crown lands by purchase, nominated a governor, with the title of captain-general, in the person of Antonio de Albuquerque Coelho, and the city of St. Paulo for his residence. It is confined on the north by the province of Minas Geraes, from which the serra of Mantiqueira separates it, and by that of Goyaz, from which it is divided by the river Grande; on the south by Rio Grande do Sul, of which the river Pellotas forms the division; on the west by the river Paranna, which separates it from the provinces of Goyaz and Matto Grosso; and on the east by the ocean, and the provinces of Rio de Janeiro on the northern part, and St. Catherina on the southern. Its territory is almost all within the temperate zone, between 20° 30′ and 28° south latitude, comprising four hundred and fifty miles from north to south, and three hundred and forty miles of medium width from east to west; and possessing much variety in the climate, soil, and aspect of the country.

John III. determining to divide the Brazilian coast into capitanias, at the period that Martim Affonso de Souza was in this new region, presented him, in 1532, with one comprising a hundred leagues of coast, and his brother Pedro Lopez de Souza, who had accompanied him, with another of fifty; but the letter of donation to Martim Affonso was not signed till the 20th of January, 1535, at the time when he had already taken his departure for India. It specified that this captaincy, which afterwards took the name of St. Vincente, should extend from the river Maccahe as far as twelve leagues to the southward of the island of Cannanea, where the bar of Paranagua is situated, excepting a certain portion[163] of ten leagues, computed from the river Curupace, now called Jiquiriquere, to that of St. Vincente. The capitania of Pedro Lopez de Souza, which was denominated St. Amaro, included the said ten leagues. That of St. Vincente had scarcely existed forty years, when it was deprived of half its territory, for the purpose of creating the new one of Rio de Janeiro.

With the change of possessors, the southern limits of both capitanias disappeared, and the jurisdiction of the governors began to extend by degrees over the countries which now constitute the provinces of Minas Geraes, Goyaz, Matto Grosso, St. Catharina, and Rio Grande do Sul, where, through the adventures of the Paulistas, colonies were first planted.

The authority of Herrera would warrant the conclusion that there was a factory at St. Vincente in the year 1527. At all events, the licence which Martim Affonso conceded to Pedro Goes, on the 3d of March, 1533, for the purpose of exporting seventeen captive Indians, free of all duties which it was customary to pay, amply demonstrates that such an establishment had existed for some time previous to the latter year. Martim Affonso found here, as has been already observed, two Europeans, Antonio Rodrigues, and John Ramalho, whom Herrera imagined had escaped from some shipwreck upon the coast; but it would seem improbable that they could of themselves have constituted a factory; as establishments of that kind, formed amongst barbarians, necessarily require a considerable number of persons.

Mountains.—This province is not mountainous, if we except the eastern part, in the whole extent of which there is a general cordillera, running parallel to the coast, which occasionally receives the name of Cubatam. This serra is not universally of the same altitude, neither does it run uniformly at an equal distance from the sea. It has many broken parts, by some of which torrents descend to the ocean, and others wind into the interior. It abounds in verdant woods, being generally high towards the sea, and is the most elevated land of the province, with the exception of some dispersed mountains in the interior; besides, the largest rivers which irrigate this district have their origin in it, and run westward.

The serra Araassoiava, by corruption Guarassoiava, which signifies the eclipsing of the sun, alluding to the great extent of land obscured by its shade, previously to the sun’s departure. This mountain, which is ten miles in length, and of proportionate width, consists entirely of a pure mineral of iron, and is situated in the district of the town of Sorocaba.

The mount of Araquara, from which are frequent exhalations, and which[164] is reputed to contain gold, is situated upon the right margin of the Tiete, thirty miles below the embouchure of the Piracicaba. This mountain must not be confounded with a serra of the same name, which exists more in the centre of the province.

Near the head of the Jaguariquatu, is the elevated mount of Pirapirapuan, which is discovered at a great distance, and possesses gold. The mountain of Thaho, upon the margin of the Thajahi, is also high, and yields the same metal.

The serra Dourada is situated in the campo of Guarapuaba, to the west of the Tibagi. The serra of Apucaranna, is also in the plains of Guarapuaba.

In the vicinity of the sea is to be remarked Mount Cardozo, on the left of the entrance to the bay of Cannanea. Mount Jurea, by corruption Judea, receives this name in consequence of its appearing like Judea to the travellers, who cannot pass the road leading over the summit without much fatigue. It is a few leagues to the north of the river Iguape, is high, commands an extensive view, and precipitates various torrents, amongst which the river Yerde is conspicuous, forming several cascades.

The serra of Jaguary, which is between the rivers Itanhaen and Una, near the beach, is in great part composed of stone, with trees of more than ordinary magnitude.

Mineralogy.—There are mines of gold, silver, brass, iron, brimstone, pumice-stone, flint, magnet, calcareous stone, granite, amolar, or grindstone, potters’ earth, rubies, diamonds, and a diversity of other precious stones.

Rivers and Ports.—None of the maritime provinces, with the exception of that of Para, present so many navigable rivers, notwithstanding the most important are incapable of conducting the productions of the central districts of the country to the ports of the sea, the whole flowing in a contrary direction to the westward, and are swallowed up by the Paranna; but even the produce of the western districts, if agriculture should at any future epoch flourish there, cannot descend by the Paranna, in consequence of the Seven Falls, (Setequedas). It might, however, be conveyed over land to the point where the river becomes navigable, and from thence to the ports, by overcoming other obstacles in the imperfect mode already practised in these parts.

The principal rivers of this province are the Paranna, the Iguassu, the Parannapanema, and the Tiete.

The Paranna takes this name at the confluence of the Paranahyba, which comes from the centre of Goyaz, and the Rio Grande, which issues from the[165] interior of Minas Geraes, both considerable. After a course of many leagues, and having gathered various streams by both margins, it forms a large and interesting fall denominated Urubu Punga, which is an insurmountable barrier to all sorts of fish; and, consequently, there are in its vicinity immense shoals of divers kinds, which may become a lucrative branch of commerce to the future dwellers near this magnificent cascade, which produces a loud murmur that is heard at the distance of many leagues.

A little below it, the river Cururuhy discharges itself, flows from the interior of Goyaz, and traverses the territory of the Cayapos. About ten miles lower, it receives the waters of the important river Tiete, in front of which embouchure there are two islands, each about ten miles long.

Seven miles further, the river Sucurihu enters it by the western bank, below the mouth of which there is a dangerous current, called Jupia.

Five miles lower, the island of Comprida (Long Island) commences, which is upwards of twenty miles in extent; and eight miles below its southern extremity, the river Aguapehi flows into the Paranna, on the left margin; and fifteen miles further, the Verde, on the western side, in front of its mouth, there are two parallel islands, neither exceeding a league in length.

Thirty-five miles below the preceding tributary, the small river Onca enters it by the same margin; and about fifty miles further, it is increased by the Pardo, which also enters on the right, and affords a communication to Camapuan.

Five miles below this confluence is that of the inconsiderable river St. Anastaçio, which flows from the east. Eighty miles further, the Parannapanema enters, opposite the mouth of which there is an island about seven miles in extent: four miles beyond its southern point, another commences, of ten miles in length; and a little below the latter, a third, which is nearly thirty miles long. Three miles further than the southern extremity of this island, the central mouth of the river Ivinheyma is discovered, which flows from the west.

The Paranna is here little less than seven miles in width, and contains a number of large islands. Near thirty miles below the Ivinheyma, the Ivahi discharges, flowing hither in a westerly direction, and six miles beyond its mouth, is an island near fifteen miles long; in front of its centre, the Amambahy contributes its volume to the Paranna, after a course from the westward.

In the vicinity of the last isle, is the island of Grande, or Large Island, not being much less in extent than seventy miles, and of considerable width; it terminates four miles above the Seven Falls. A little more than seven miles[166] above the southern point of this island, the river Iguatimy enters the Paranna on the western margin, in latitude 24° 40′; and in a little higher latitude the Piquiry. Ten miles to the south of the first, it receives, by the right bank, the small river Iguarei, nearest to the Seven Falls.

At the extremity of the Great Island, the current of the Paranna is much accelerated, and augments proportionably as its margins approximate; and from near four miles of width, which it retains in front of the Iguarei, it diminishes to fifty fathoms, its immense volume of waters being then divided into seven channels, formed by six small islands of rock, traversing the serra of Maracaju, with a current of indescribable fury and awful noise.

Besides the islands already mentioned in this river, there are a vast number of others, of a smaller size, in the great space that intervenes between the Setequedas and the fall of Urubu Punga. Its waters are turbulent, and ill adapted for drinking. The western margin is flat, in part consisting of a large white sand, with a variety of precious stones, for the space of many leagues without interruption. The eastern bank is generally a little elevated; and both exhibit continued and extensive woods. Without any considerable windings, it runs between the south and south-west, with a current generally slow and majestic; but, when strong winds prevail, the waves are as tumultuous as those of the ocean. It abounds with various kinds of fish, some of which are excellent.

Forty miles below the Seven Falls, the river Jaguare enters the Paranna by the left margin; and sixty miles further the considerable Iguassu. At a considerable distance further, its direction is changed towards the west, and enters the Paraguay in the latitude of 27° 20′. From the mission of Corpus upwards, aboriginal nations alone possess the vast territory watered by this majestic river and its confluents.

The river Iguassu, which in the Brazilian language signifies “great water,” has its principal source in the small river St. Joze, and when it traverses the royal road of Lages to Sorocaba, is already considerable, and runs under the name of Curytiba. Its course is always towards the west, having few windings, forming many falls, which interrupt navigation; sensibly enlarging by those streams which unite themselves with it on one or the other margin, principally the southern, and limiting on the south the vast plains of Guarapuaba, inhabited by Indians. The borders are extensively wooded. The first large fall, denominated Cayacanga, is about fifteen miles below the above-mentioned road, and the largest ten miles above its embouchure, where it is one hundred and thirteen[167] fathoms in width. This latter cataract is two hundred feet in perpendicular height; the margins of the river at this place are rocky, and the current furious. A certanista, (a commandant of a troop proceeding into the certam or interior,) who descended by this river, says, that it is navigable, without embarrassment, from Cayacanga to the fall of Victoria; but he does not declare the extent of this interval, nor the names and situations of seven large falls, which he encountered to the confluence of this river with the Paranna. At the angle of its confluence, for some years existed the aldeia of St. Maria de lguassu, which disappeared in consequence of a famine.

What may be deemed the most remarkable object in this river, besides the large fall alluded to, is that part of its course known by the appellation of the Funil, in the centre of the country, where it runs rapidly, contracted between high and pointed rocks, in the form of a street of medium width. In its vicinity dwell a horde of Puri and of Guayanha Indians. The principal confluents of the lguassu, which unite themselves with it on the left, are the Negro, Varge, Bannanal, and St. Antonio, which joins it seventy miles above the last fall. Fifty miles above the river St. Antonio, the Jordao discharges itself, and about the same distance above the latter, the St. Joao, both by the right margin.

The river Parannapanema has its origin in the cordillera of the sea, to the west of the river Itanhaen. Its first considerable tributaries are the Itapitininga, which joins it on the right, and the Apiahy on the left, with the waters of which it becomes considerable and wide. Its margins are generally flat, and covered with large trees; in some parts plains or campinhas are seen, where are encountered, amongst other wild creatures, the emu ostrich and deer. The current is principally quick, in consequence of numerous falls. Malevolent Indians occupy the adjacent lands. Near the southern margin, in the vicinity of the mouth of the Tibagy, some years ago was found the remains of a dwelling, which renders it probable that the ancient Spaniards of the province of Guayra extended their establishments to this river.

Thirty miles above the embouchure of the Parannapanema, it is joined on the southern bank by the small river Pirapo, near the mouth of which, for many years, existed the redução or mission of the Lady of Loreto, one of thirteen which formed the reputed provinces of Taiaoba and Taiaty, so inaptly described by the Jesuit Montoya, one of their founders, and which affords room to suspect that they existed in the vast territory which extends itself from the said Parannapanema northwards.

The river Tiete, formerly Anhemby, a name given to it by an Indian tribe, has its source seventy miles to the east of the city of St. Paulo, not far from which it passes; about four miles below it receives, on the left margin, the Pinheiros, which flows from the south-east with twenty miles of course. After forty-five miles more it receives, on the right, the Jundiahy, which flows by the town of its name. Near this confluence, the Tiete forms a large cataract, which impedes the further advance of fish; and fifty miles further the Capibary joins it, after having traversed an extensive wood of majestic trees.

Eight miles lower the Sorocaba discharges on the left margin. Originating in the serra of Cubatam, to the west of St. Vincente, it runs by the town of the same name.

Fifty miles beyond the preceding river, the Pirassicaba, which is considerable, enters it on the right, and is formed by the Tybaia and Jaguary, the heads of which are situated to the north-east of St. Paulo, and traverse a vast wood of immense trees, from the trunks of which, as well as those that grow upon the borders of the aforesaid Capibary, are constructed canoes of eighty palms in length, nearly eight in width, and five in height, which serve to navigate to Cuiaba, and carry four hundred arrobas of cargo, besides the necessary maintenance for eight men, and occasionally passengers.

A little below this confluence, where the volume of water is almost doubled, the Lancoes joins it on the left; and, after four or five days of voyage, the embouchure of the Jacare-Papira is met with on the right; and, somewhat lower, that of the Pipira, on the same side, almost as voluminous as the one which receives it. This river is formed by the waters of the Mugy, which originates in the skirt of the Mantiqueira and of the Jaguary-Mirim, which issues from Minas Geraes, both crossing the road from St. Paulo to Goyaz, thirty miles distant one from the other. They flow westward for a considerable space, uniting in the centre of a large wood, through which they continue in one important current, gathering various streams, that render it so considerable at the confluence mentioned.

A few leagues below the passage to Goyaz there is a fall in the Mugy, which arrests the further progress of fish, and, in consequence, at a certain period annually a numerous band of fishermen assemble here, with cargas (horse loads) of salt, which enables them to furnish the more distant places, from the abundant draughts with which they are here supplied.

Navigators compute two hundred and fifty miles from Port Feliz to the mouth[169] of the Pipira, and as many more from this point to the confluence of the Tiete with the Paranna.

The imperfect methods of overcoming the natural difficulties which are presented, require twenty-six days to accomplish this voyage of five hundred miles. Its course is very winding; twenty-five miles are reckoned in a direct line from Port Feliz to the mouth of the Capibary, and nearly sixty by the river.

It is fifty miles from the mouth of the Jocoaquatu to that of the Pirassicaba, and only twenty in a straight line. The bed is principally stony, with a great number of islands and falls, the most important of those precipitations are denominated Avare-Manduava, Itaguassava, Pirapora, Bauru, Barery-Mirim, Barery-Guassu, Escaramuca, Utupanema, Funil-Grande, (the Large Funnel,) Guacurytuvussu, Aracanga-Mirim, Aracangavussu, Utupeva, and Utupiru. The labour requisite to pass these falls with canoes is very great. There are above sixty other places attended with difficulty, and half that number with considerable danger, but which, notwithstanding, are passed without unloading the canoes. The banks of this river are almost universally covered with superb timber. Amongst other fruit trees are the jabuticaba, quince, cipota, jatahi, nhandipapo, and uvacupari. From the bark of some trees the aborigines and the certanistas construct canoes for the purposes of navigation; and the resin extracted from them the Indians use for lights, and for ornaments for their ears and lips. Among other species of fish it affords the doirados, saupes, pacus, piracanjuvas, surubins, piracambucus, jahus, and piraquaxiaras, some of which weigh two arrobas, or sixty-four pounds.

It would be of incalculable advantage to the internal provinces of Brazil if the government would adopt some effectual mode of diminishing the numerous natural difficulties the Tiete presents to navigation. The voyage is also prolonged in consequence of the fogs, which almost every morning deter the canoes from departure till eight o’clock, when these mists usually disappear.

The river Tibagy, which originates to the west of Cannanea, runs to the north-west, traversing the campos of Guarapuaba, where it becomes considerable from many other streams which join it, principally on the right margin; among them are the Pitanguy, Yapo, Jaguaryhiba or Jocuriahy, and the Jaguaryquatu. The Cairussu is the largest among the few which it receives on the left, and passes near the serra Doirada. It is navigable near to its heads, and enters the Parannapanema about the middle of its course.

Between the Jaguariquatu and the aforesaid Apiahy travellers from Villa do[170] Principe to Sorocaba pass, among other smaller streams, the Terere, Verde, and Taquary, which run universally towards the west, and increase the Tibagy, or the Parannapanema. The first and southern, when it crosses the road, is hidden by a high point of rock, formed by nature, and deemed one of the wonders of the province.

The Piquiry, having its heads in the centre of the campos of Guarapuaba, towards which it affords navigation for a very considerable space, runs westward into the Paranna ten miles above the Seven Falls. In the northern angle of its mouth, in an agreeable site, was situated Ciudad Real, otherwise Guayra, demolished by the Paulistas in 1631. The detachment of Fort Iguatimim attempted to rebuild it in 1773; but the undertaking was abandoned, in consequence of every individual employed having perished in a few days by a pestilential fever, which prevails here in January, February, and March.

The Ivahy, originally Ubahy, which rises also in the campos of Guarapuaba and near to the Tibagy, from whence some certanistas transport their canoes to it, is considerable, navigable nearly to its origin, and so well stored with fish, that it has also acquired the name of Rio do Peixe, (the River of Fish.) It runs between the west and north-west, traversing an extensive territory, peopled with savage Indians, and enters the Paranna.

The river Tinto, Bom, Soberbo, Capibary, and Thua are its principal branches. The first is the northern and the last is the southern. The ruins of Villa Rica, denominated Bannanal, are situated eight days’ voyage above its mouth, and was dismantled by the Paulistas upon the same occasion on which they demolished Ciudad Real. A road connected these two places, of which at the present day there is scarcely any trace.

The Pardo issues from the comarca of St. Joao d’El Rey, where it washes the arraial of its name; and after flowing through an extensive tract westward, and collecting, amongst others, the river Araquara, falls into the Rio Grande, much below the confluence of the Sapucahy, a considerable river, which travellers to Goyaz fall in with after they enter that province from St. Paulo.

The river Parahiba, after describing a vast winding, and irrigating many povoacaos of this province, returns towards that of Rio de Janeiro, where it has its origin and termination.

We will now describe the rivers which flow towards the ocean, and the principal ports. These are Santos, Cannanea, and Paranagua.

Eighteen miles to the north of the river Sahy Grande, a limit of the province, is the mouth of the considerable and rapid Guaratuba, formed by others that[171] descend from the General Cordillera. This name is derived from the beautiful guara bird, which abounds upon its margins, and breeds upon a flat island, covered with mangroves, situated about seven miles from the sea, where, by a decree, no one has been allowed to kill them, otherwise these handsome birds would have long since been extirpated. Launches proceed up to the town of the same name. Its largest tributary is the river St. Joao, which, flowing a considerable distance through the pine woods, unites itself with the Guaratuba on the southern margin.

Twenty miles to the northward are the three entrances to the bay of Paranagua, formed by two islands. Ibupetuba, (or False Bar,) is the name of the southern, and Superagui that of the northern. The central and largest is five hundred fathoms in width. Mel is the name of the southern island, and Pecas the northern. This bay is twenty miles in length from east to west, more than ten at its greatest width, and of very irregular form. The most northern portion is called the bay of Pine-trees, to which the island of Pecas opens two entrances. The island of Cotinga, six miles long from east to west, and of small width, is the largest within this bay, where sumacas alone enter, and where a great number of rivulets and rivers are discharged. The most considerable is the Cubatam, which flows into it at the western extremity. The Guaraquissava is the largest that enters it on the northern side, where it also receives the Serra Negra, the Cachoeira, and the Nhundyaquara. The Gurgussu and the Almeydas are the largest which run into this receptacle on its southern side.

Twenty-five miles further, the river Ararapira disembogues, scarcely supplying depth for canoes.

Twelve miles to the north-east, which is the direction of the coast, is the bar of Cannanea. Near its northern point there is a small elevated island of the same name. In front of it, on the southern side, there is another island called Figueira, which is round; and further outward is that of Castilhos, small and of moderate elevation.

Forty miles in the same direction of north-east, is the bar of Icapara, the northern mouth of an inlet of the sea, forming an island of the intervening land. Its southern mouth is the before-mentioned bar of Cannanea. This island, hitherto unnamed, is flat, and of inconsiderable width, compared with its great length. It has some inhabitants, and the channel which separates it from the continent is narrow and deep, and is sometimes called a bay, at others a lake.[172] Smacks enter by the bar of Cannanea; that of Icapara, having the same depth, is not navigated, in consequence of its dangerous windings.

Fifteen miles further along the coast is the large outlet of the considerable river Iguape, formed by a great number of large streams, generally serpentine, and watering a vast and mountainous country, having gold. This river is navigable for many leagues; and in the vicinity of the sea, describing large windings, forms many peninsulas, some of the isthmuses of which have been cut in order to shorten the navigation. It passes about two miles from the town of Iguape.

Thirty-five miles further are the two mouths of the river Una, up which canoes proceed more than fifty miles, to a place called Prelado.

Forty miles to the north-east is the entrance of the bay of Itanhaen, which is handsome, and takes the name of a small river discharged at its extremity.

The bay of Santos follows at a distance of thirty-five miles, to which the island of St. Vincente, and that of St. Amaro, originally Guahibe, each being fifteen or eighteen miles long, open three entrances. The southern is denominated the bar of St. Vincente, the central Barra Larga, (Wide Bar,) or the bar of Santos, and the northern, Bertioga, by corruption Buriquioca, which signifies a house or cavern of buriquis, a species of monkey. It is the only port of the province capable of receiving armadas. Various small rivers, alone navigable with the tide, flow hither, and are discharged amidst mangroves.

Islands.—The two last islands are the principal; are elevated, and abound with water, timber, and good stone.

The island of St. Amaro has scarcely any inhabitants, and is almost entirely uncultivated, which, perhaps, is owing to its not having been granted at first in small portions to agriculturists capable of cultivating it.

About thirty miles to the east-north-east of St. Amaro, is the island of St. Sebastian, fifteen miles long, and proportionably wide, also high, with some inhabitants and roadsteads, being separated from the continent by the profound channel of Toque-Toque, a league in width.

Fifteen miles to the north-east from hence is the small island of Porcos, which is of a triangular form, with good anchorage in its vicinity, and inhabited.

In the same direction, and at an equal distance, the island of Couves is situated, possessing good water, and commodious anchorage on the side next the continent, from which it is distant three miles.

The Queimadas, consisting of three small islands, are situated twelve miles east of the entrance to the bay of Itanhaen.

Phytology.—This province possesses extensive woods, with a variety of trees well adapted for building and other purposes. The cedar is common in many parts, and the Brazilian pine abounds more than any other tree in many districts. It is of two sorts, the green, high and straight, and the white, which is not so compact as the first. Amongst other medicinal plants is the jarrinha, which is regarded as an efficacious antidote, applied externally, to the bite of a snake. The flowers of Europe do not degenerate much here; and fruit trees, transplanted from the same quarter, prosper equally with a great portion of those peculiar to the central provinces. The produce of the cotton tree is neither abundant nor of the best quality; common cottons, which are manufactured with it, constitute a branch of commerce. The agricultural productions are wheat, rye, Indian corn, rice, mandioca, legumes, coffee, potatoes, sugar, rum, and tobacco; these, with a large quantity of hides and pork, cattle, horses, mules, poultry, wax, precious stones, and drugs, are exported.

Zoology.—Amongst other species of wild quadrupeds, the capibara, ounce, anta, tamandua, guara, preguica, boar, deer, paca, monkey, rabbit, wild dog, and ariranha, are common. European animals are sufficiently numerous, with the exception of the goat. A portion of salt is generally given to every species of cattle as aliment; and probably no other province produces such a prodigious quantity of hogs.

The eastern part of this province was possessed by two nations, denominated Carijos and Guayanas; the latter dwelt northward of the first. The western districts are yet in the power of the native barbarians. The Paulistas give the appellation of Bugres to those which inhabit the territory that extends from the river Tiete to the Uruguay. The northern part is at this day occasionally visited by the Cayapo tribes, whose dwelling places are on the other side of the Paranna. The Bugres, amongst which there are some whites, with beards, are divided into four nations; one of these hordes perforate the under lip, some shave the head in the form of a crown, and others ornament their faces with dyes. The men go entirely naked, and use no other arms but the bow and arrow. The women wear a girdle reaching nearly to the knees.

Although they have fixed residences, and cultivate some vegetables, with feijao, and three sorts of Indian corn, white, violet, and another, which the Paulistas denominate peruruca, they wander about a part of the year in pursuit of game and wild fruits.

Their houses are of considerable length, and are formed by two ranges of an equal number of poles, the flexibility of which admits of their junction at the[174] centre, and being intertwined with twigs, constitute a simple structure, which is finished by the guaricanga (a species of palm tree) as its ultimate covering, with a narrow entrance at one extremity. Fires are made in file along the middle of the building, the inhabitants sleeping upon the ground with their feet extended towards them, and many families constituting the inmates of one dwelling.

Their instruments of agriculture are rudely constructed of wood, with tools of stones; and they make certain vessels for the fermentation of inebriating beverages, which they frequently partake of to excess.

They domesticate some indigenous animals, such as the quaty and cotia; and of European quadrupeds only the dog for hunting. They prefer the flesh of the horse and mule to that of the ox. On all occasions where any friendly intercourse obtains between them and the Paulistas, they appear to regard iron alone as an article of any value. Their natural ferocity has prevented the Portuguese from extending themselves or cultivation to the westward.

Amongst other numerous species of birds, remarkable for their size, plumage, and rarity, are the emu ostrich, colhereira, caroe, tabuyaya, tayuyu, jacu, mutun, macuco partridge, tucano, parrot, araponga, guraputepoca, the troquaze dove, rola, heron, inhuma, white urubu, soco, wild goose, &c.

The Paulistas (inhabitants of St. Paulo) are at present esteemed the best people of the state, although various accounts would warrant the belief of their being formerly of a very different character; but these representations must be received with caution. It is evident that their valour and enterprise have, on many occasions, been very conspicuous. Vosgien, the most moderate of all the writers against them, says, that the city of St. Paulo was a species of republic, independent of the Portuguese, and formed of bands from different nations, the whole ill regulated, and consisting of freebooters and thieves, who paid a tribute of gold to the King of Portugal, till they were subjugated by that crown. This is in opposition to the Portuguese authorities, who affirm that they were always faithful subjects of Portugal, from the foundation of the capitania.

From the period of Philip II. becoming possessed of Portugal, and having, in consequence, some controul over its colonies, till the day of acclamation, which restored the crown to John IV. the Paulistas did not deem themselves under the jurisdiction of the Castilian court, but opposed the Spaniards who were in possession of the rich lands to the south and west of the Paraguay; and[175] had begun to approximate to the centre of the continent with their establishments. This induced the Paulistas to enter upon a secret expedition in 1631, in order to interrupt their progress. Having traversed, with eight hundred men, the certâms, or interior, the rivers Parannapanema and Tibagy, they fell upon Villa Rica, and Ciudad Real. The town of Xerez, situated near the heads of the river Mondego, experienced the same misfortune; also thirty-two aldeias that constituted three small provinces.

The Paulistas, although they did not designate the domestic Indians by the appellation of captives, or slaves, but by that of administrados, disposed of them as such, giving them to their creditors in payment of debts, and by way of dowry on occasions of marriage.

The Jesuits, who possessed or had the controul over a great number of Indians, and under whose power they received the denomination of administrados, without any consequences of slavery being attached to the term, declaimed against the abuses practised by the Paulistas, and demonstrated to them the impropriety of usurping a right to dispose of the liberty of the Indian.

The Paulistas, who were opulent, and owed all their wealth to the arms of their numerous administrados, determined to expel the Jesuits, in order that the truths which they promulgated should not militate against their interest.

The reciprocal opposition of two families, each wishing to have the entire administration of the government, led them, with their respective partizans, to open warfare, which would have conducted to the most disastrous results, if the prudence of some ecclesiastics had not disarmed them on the field of battle, by persuading the chiefs to a compromise, by which an equal number of the contending families, from thence forward, were to enter upon the functions of the government.

This compact, accomplished in the year 1654, continued until the middle of the following century, when a cavalheiro, not related to the privileged families, was elected for a judge, which appointment was protested against by them, and finally settled in their favour at Rio de Janeiro, about the time when this individual had completed the term of his jurisdiction. The ability with which he had discharged the duties of the office, convinced the Paulistas that personal merit ought, in conducting the government, to be preferred to the old system.

The antipathy that existed for a long period between the Thaubatenos and Piratininganos, and produced so many duels and disasters; the fatal campaign of 1631; the revolutions caused by the mutual enmity of the two families alluded to; the civil war between the said Paulistas and the European Portuguese,[176] at the commencement of the mining adventures in Minas Geraes; with other animosities, may be regarded as the foundation of the exaggerated charges of want of loyalty, with which many writers have charged this people.

They have a provincial trait which characterises them on their visits to other places. They always wear a sort of capote, or cloak, called a ponche, with an aperture in the centre, through which they introduce the head and neck.

The serra of Jaguary, on the Beira-Mar, or sea-coast, and the river Terere, from the serra above, divide this province into northern and southern, each constituting a comarca, or ouvidoria, designated by the head town, which, till recently, were Paranagua in the south, and St. Paulo in the north.

By a law of February, 1812, the former was changed for the town of Curytiba, where the ouvidor has since resided; and it is the head of this division, denominated the comarca of Paranagua and Curytiba. The other was divided into two comarcas, and the new one was denominated Hitu.

The longest day of the year, which is in December, comprises nearly fourteen hours in the southern part of the province, at which period the inhabitants of the margins of the river Grande, the northern boundary, have not thirteen hours and a half of day.

Curytiba, a considerable and famous town, now the head of the comarca, and ordinary residence of the ouvidor, (head magistrate,) is well situated upon the left margin of a small river, which has a bridge for the accommodation of its inhabitants. It has a magnificent church, called Our Lady da Luz, the hermitages of the Lady of Terco, Rosario, and St. Francisco de Paula, and a Terceira order of St. Francisco de Assis. All its structures are of stone or brick, and the streets are paved.

Paranagua is a town of some note, built of stone, and previously to the year 1812 was the head of the comarca. It has three hermitages, and a church of the Lady of Rosario. Its situation, unhealthy, and presenting nothing agreeable to the view, is ten miles distant from the sea, upon the southern bank of the bay from which it borrows the name, and in front of the western point of the island of Cotinga. It has a permutation or smelting house, a [177]Juiz de Fora, and a professor of Latin. The Jesuits had a college here, which has, since their expulsion, been repaired at the cost of the treasury. Farinha, rice, coffee, and other articles, with wheat, which is brought from Curytiba, are its exports.

Guaratuba, (the real name of which is Villa Nova de St. Luiz,) situated near a morro, upon the right margin of the southern arm of the river Guaratuba, in front of the island of Guarazes, and seven miles from the sea, is yet small, but stands advantageously for becoming more considerable. It exports various necessaries of life.

Antonio enjoys an agreeable, and healthy situation, ten miles west of the town of Paranagua, at the extremity of a bay, on a peninsula, and in front of the embouchures of the Cachoeira and Nhundiaquara. It was created a town in 1800. The mother church, deemed an embellishment, is denominated Our Lady of Pilar. Its vicinity can boast of considerable plantations of mandioca, the farinha of which root is exported, as well as timber and cords of imbe. In its district is the aldeia of Morrete, near a river, up which canoes advance to take in the productions cultivated within its boundaries, and those conveyed hither from Curytiba upon the backs of mules.

Cannanea, an inconsiderable town, and pleasantly situated upon a small island, about ten miles within the bar of its name, and only separated from the continent by a narrow strait, has a church dedicated to St. Joao Baptista. Its inhabitants are agriculturists and fishermen; rice is the principal article exported. At the entrance of the bar of Cannanea, on the side of the continent, there is a stone of European marble, with the royal arms of Portugal; and, although much defaced, is ascertained to have been erected there in the year 1503.

Twenty miles south-west of Cannanea, is the aldeia of Ararapira, in former times a villota of Christianized Indians, with its church dedicated to St. Joze da Marinha, situated upon an arm of the lake or bay of Cannanea, which prolongs itself between the General Cordillera and another contiguous to the ocean.

Twenty-eight miles (or forty, following the winding of the lake) to the north-east of the town of Cannanea, is the considerable town of Iguape, situated pleasantly at the extremity of the lake, and a little removed from the right margin of the river Assunguy, which is generally designated by the name of the town. It formerly had a house of permutation, and has a celebrated church[178] dedicated to the Lady of Neves. The exportation of rice from hence is considerable.

Castro, with a church dedicated to St. Amaro, is yet a small town, but well situated at the point where the river Hyapo (of which it originally took the name) traverses the royal road. In its vicinity are found the most precious stones. After the subjugation of the savages of Guarapuava, great expectations are entertained of its increase, as well as of the cultivation of its extensive contours.

St. Joze, ten miles to the south-east of Curytiba, is agreeably elevated above the surrounding campinha, and is one mile from the left margin of the small river of its name, which, after a course of seven miles further, incorporates itself with the Curytiba.

Forty miles to the west of the two last-named towns, there is a register upon the margin of the Curytiba, where, in some years, thirty thousand mules pass to Sorocaba.

Lages, otherwise Nossa Senhora dos Prazeres, is the most southern town of the province, and was never considerable, in consequence of its proximity to the savages, but is at present much reduced by their invasions. It is situated upon what is denominated the royal road, two miles north of the river Caveiras, and about one from the small Caraha, which takes the name of a species of cane or bamboo that grows in abundance upon its margins, and are the best of the province; some have so peculiar a varnish upon them, that they appear like the work of an able hand. There are excellent amolar, or grindstones, in the same stream. The country surrounding this town is of great fertility, is irrigated by many rivers, and has a temperate and salubrious climate. Legumes, wheat, Indian corn, &c. with cattle, are raised, and almost every species of fruit tree prospers; but the people, besides diminishing in number, are poor for want of an outlet for their productions. The opening of a good road, by which the farmers might with facility transmit their surplus produce to the port of St. Catharina; or perhaps better through the medium of the town of Laguna, (the road terminating in that case at the port of Guarda, from whence the Tuburao affords navigation to the said town,) would induce numerous colonies to establish themselves in this fertile territory, rendered more desirable by the fine temperature of the climate, when the aborigines would be either compelled to retire, or to submit to some mode of subjection. The many aldeias, which would necessarily be spread over this fine district,[179] affording plains for the extensive breeding of cattle, could not fail to produce a rapid increase of the town of Lages. In such a state of things it would become the head of a populous and rich comarca.

Villa do Principe, originally St. Antonio da Lapa, is ten miles southward from the before-mentioned register of Curytiba, near the royal road. Its people are breeders of cattle, and cultivate wheat, rye, Indian corn, and divers fruits.

Five miles north of the same register, and also upon the border of the road, near a small river which contributes its water to the Iguassu, is the arraial of Thauha, possessing a hermitage of the Lady of Conceiçao.

Curytiba, the name by which this district has been recently designated, in the Brazilian language signifies curu, “pine,” and tiba, “many.” It comprises almost all the comarca, or southern part of the province, from the General Serra to the westward. The winter commences in this part about May, and lasts till September, with a south, and occasionally a south-west wind, which is colder than the first. The most common trees are the Brazilian pine. These majestic trees form extensive woods, abounding with the mountain hog, which go in herds, at times, of one hundred and more.

The fruit trees of Europe prosper here better than the indigenous ones of this continent, and amongst the former may be enumerated the fig, pear, apple, plum, peach, quince, cherry, walnut, and chestnut. The olive-trees are laden with flowers, but rarely fructify. Mandioca, the banana, coffee, and cotton trees, as well as the sugar cane, only prosper in some situations. The matte grows spontaneously, and is very common. The great consumption of a beverage made from this tree in the province, and in those of St. Catharina and Rio Grande do Sul, and also by many people in the metropolis, augurs favourably for the addition of another branch of commerce to this comarca. Bunches of grapes are frequently met with of upwards of five pounds weight; but hitherto no good wine has been manufactured.

In the year 1812 a large quantity of divers plants of the vine were sent here from Europe; and it is confidently expected that many will succeed as well if not better than in their native soil; so that with proper attention good wine may in time be produced.

The Curytibanos pass for the most powerful and robust people amongst the Paulistas. They cultivate abundance of wheat and Indian corn, with some rice; they breed cattle, horses, and mules, possess a great number of cows, and make some butter and cheese. The cows are of a large size, and afford[180] the greatest quantity of milk in summer; that, however, which they supply in the winter is the best; the portion which in the first season yields four cheeses, in the winter produces eight. The major part of the breeders of cattle give them salt; an animal which is lean receives a greater ration, in order that it may fatten more expeditiously. It is observed, that sheep begin to die after they have pastured ten years, in whatever situation they may be. Immediately on the first symptom of the disease, which is known by the retiring of the animals towards the door of their dono, as if praying for a remedy, it is requisite to remove them to another part, and when not more than a league distant from their former pasture, the contagion will cease.

The northern division of this province comprehends the following towns, viz.:— In the comarca of St. Paulo:

St. Paulo is a city in a state of mediocrity, but agreeably seated upon land somewhat elevated at the angle of the confluence of the Tamandatahi, with the Hynhangabahu, which washes it on the western side, and the former on the eastern. It is nearly two miles from the Tiete, which passes to the north, forty miles north-west from Santos, which is its port; seven miles to the south of the Tropic; and three hundred and fifty fathoms above the level of the ocean. It is ornamented with a house of Misericordia, various hermitages, and three hospitals; a convent of Benedictines, another of Franciscans, a third of slippered Carmelites, two recolhimentos for women, a house of permutation, various open spaces or squares, three good bridges of stone, with others of wood, and divers fountains; however, the best water is afforded by the rivers. Some streets are well paved. The edifices are generally formed of what is termed taipa, which consists of twofold wooden planks, constituting the frame, filled in with earth,[181] and white-washed. This city is the residence of the governor of the province, and the ouvidor of the comarca, or district, who fulfils also the duties of crown judge, &c. There is a Juiz de Fora, who also executes the functions of an Attorney General, auditor of the military, and deputy to the junta of the treasury. It has some masters, who have the high-sounding denomination of royal professors of the primitive letters, Latin, rhetoric, philosophy, dogmatical theology, and morality. The inhabitants, in number from thirty-five to forty thousand, are divided between two parishes, one being of the cathedral, the chapter of which consists of fourteen canons, including four dignitaries of archdeacon, archpriest, chanter, and treasurer-mor. The other has a church called Santa Efigenia. The Jesuits commenced this city, in the year 1552, with the foundation of a college, in which they celebrated the first mass on the day of the conversion of the apostle with whose name it was consecrated in 1554, and which afforded the subsequent name of St. Paulo to the town and province. This structure now constitutes the palace of the governor. Senhor Joao Carlos de Oainansen at present fills that situation. Six years after the first establishment of the Jesuits here, St. Paulo acquired the denomination of a town. Its first inhabitants were a horde of Guayana Indians, with their cacique or chief called Tebireca, who lived in the aldeia of Piratinin, near the small river of the same name, not far from the new colony, which, in consequence, took the appellation of St. Paulo de Piratininga, and retained it till the year 1712, when it was dignified with the title of city, and in 1746 was further honoured by being made the seat of a bishopric. The Indians were soon augmented by a great number of Europeans, whom they called Emboabas, in consequence of their legs being covered, and which conveyed to the minds of the Indians a resemblance of certain birds with feathered legs so called by them. The alliances of the new settlers, with the Indians, soon produced a third class of people, to whom they gave the name of Mamelucos, with which the establishment received a considerable increase; and the city at this day comprises upwards of four thousand houses, with the number of inhabitants previously mentioned, one half of which are computed to be whites. The salubrity of the climate, and the abundance and moderate value of all the necessaries of life, give it the decided preference for the foundation of an university, if the views of the government become enlightened enough to promote such an establishment in the Brazil. The body, and consequently the mind, of the student would here have more vigour for literary application, than in the warmer or more northern climates of this region, and books or libraries would[182] receive less damage from the destructive prey of insects. St. Paulo is considered a most healthy situation; and I have known the valetudinarian of Rio de Janeiro, contemplate a change to its moderate and invigorating climate, as exceedingly desirable. There are a great number of quintas or shacaras in its suburbs. Among the fruit trees which embellish them, the jabuticaba is not rare, affording a fine and excellent fruit. The oranges are not of good quality, and the tree sustains considerable injury in years of much frost. The same may be said of the coffee and banana trees, as well as of mandioca and the sugar cane.

Santos, considerable, populous, commercial, and advantageously situated upon the northern side of the island of St. Vincente, was erected into a town in 1545, and possesses a house of Misericordia, which is the most ancient of the Brazil, a Franciscan convent, an hospicio (or entertaining house) of Bentos, another of slippered Carmelites, and various chapels; the ex-Jesuitical college of St. Miguel, after being much dilapidated, was renovated for the military hospital. A Juiz de Fora presides over the senate. The houses are solid and of stone; and the female part of their inmates are celebrated for making excellent lace. This town was sacked by the Dutch, and upon another occasion by the English. Its port, the entrance to which is defended by various forts, is capable of receiving large ships, and it is the depositary of much sugar, rum, coarse cottons, coffee, hides, and bacon, which articles constitute its exports. The produce of rice and coffee are alone abundant. The winter is always a very rainy season.

Seven miles to the south-west, on the southern coast of the same island, upon the entrance of the bar of its name, is situated St. Vincente, the most ancient town of the province, in former times flourishing and famous, but now sunk into insignificance, in consequence of Santos being better adapted for commerce, to which it has removed from this town. Its inhabitants are mostly fishermen.

Fifteen miles to the west of Santos is the small arraial of Cubatam, upon the northern margin of the river which affords its name, and from which it sustains great damage at the period of the greatest floods. Every thing that descends from the serra above, and destined for the town, is here embarked. A project of uniting this island with the terra-firma has been proposed by means of a calcada, or paved way, across the channel of St. Vincente, which, if carried into effect, will prevent many shipwrecks. At the bar of Bertioga there is an armaçao, or establishment for whale fishing.

Itanhaen, a small place, erected into a town in 1561, possesses a Franciscan convent, and is situated near a mount, upon the northern margin of the[183] bay from which it borrows its name, and which it frequently exchanges for that of the Lady of Conceiçao, the patroness of its church. Farinha, rice, and timber are exported from hence.

The town of St. Sebastian, so called from the patron of its church, is yet inconsiderable, with indifferent houses, and streets of sand. It is seated upon the straight of Toque-Toque, in front of the island of its name, near the embouchure of a small river, and at the commencement of a fertile plain, where agriculture might be rendered flourishing in all its branches, and which was for many years almost abandoned, in consequence of the farmers being prohibited from exporting their productions to those places where they would have derived the greatest advantage from them. About three miles to the east, in an agreeable situation, there is a Franciscan convent, and near to it an arraial, denominated Bairro. The women are occupied in potteries, the men in fishing, and in the culture of various necessaries of life.

Villa da Princeza, so created in 1809, is situated upon the northern coast of the island of St. Sebastian, near the chapel of Nossa Senhora of Luz, which for the present serves as its mother church, as well as for all the inhabitants of the island. This island is appropriated to the culture of the sugar-cane and tobacco, which are esteemed the best of the province, and their exportation is considerable. On the eastern part of the island there is an armaçao for whale fishing.

Ubatuba, a small town, with a church, and a chapel of the Lady of Conceiçao, is situated near the mouth of an inconsiderable stream, on the verge of a fertile plain, irrigated by various torrents. Its inhabitants are fishermen, and cultivators of mandioca, rice, and coffee. It is nearly thirty miles to the north-east of the town of St. Sebastian, and near the boundary of the province. Between this town and the afore-mentioned arraial of Bairro, is the bay of Flamengos, also that of Inquiriquere, both of which are capable of receiving many ships. Into the latter, which is the most westerly, the river of the same name discharges itself, and affords a disembarrassed navigation for only three miles.

Paranahiba, an inconsiderable town, is situated upon the left margin of the river Tiete, about twenty miles distant in a westerly direction from St. Paulo. It has a church, and an hospicio of Bento Friars; and its inhabitants, with those of the adjacent districts, breed large cattle, and raise a diversity of the necessaries of life.

Mugi das Cruzes is a considerable town, abundantly supplied with the necessaries of life, and enjoys a good situation, about two miles from the Tiete,[184] thirty-five east-north-east of St. Paulo, and forty north of Santos. It has a church, dedicated to St. Anna, a convent of shod Carmelites, a hermitage of Bom Jesus, and a Terceira order of Carmo. The houses are of taipa. The inhabitants breed cattle, and form extensive plantations of the coffee tree, the produce of which, with some rum, constitutes their wealth.

Near thirty miles to the north-east of Mugi das Cruzes, the small town of Jacarehi is situated, upon the right margin of the river Parahiba, with a church. The passage across the river here is much frequented.

The town of St. Joze is ten miles to the north of Jacarehi, takes the name of the patron of its church, and is situated near the Parahiba, upon land which constituted part of a fazenda of the Jesuits, its founders.

Thaubate is one of the most considerable and best situated towns of the province. It is upwards of one hundred miles to the north-east of St. Paulo, seventy from Mugi das Cruzes, forty from Jacarehi, and three from the Parahiba, near a small stream. Besides the church dedicated to St. Francisco, it has a convent of the same saint, a Terceira order, and the chapels of the Lady of Pilar and Rosario. Almost all the houses are of taipa, and few with one story. Its inhabitants, whose ancestors were antagonists of the Piratiningans of St. Paulo, cultivate the necessaries of life and tobacco, raise pigs and poultry in considerable quantities, and sugar cane in small plantations. They manufacture handsome mats and hand-baskets, which are sent to different parts. Near the embouchure of a small river, and close upon the margin of the Parahiba, is the inconsiderable arraial of Tremembe, with a chapel of Bom Jesus. At the distance of from ten to fourteen miles is the parish of Cassapaba, a new dismemberment of the preceding town.

Pindamonhangaba, a town in a state of mediocrity, is well supplied, particularly with fish, and advantageously situated in a plain, on the right margin of the Parahiba. It possesses a church of the Lady of Bom Successo, and a hermitage of St. Joze. It is more than ten miles to the north-north-east of Thaubate; and its inhabitants, who are considered prudent and industrious, cultivate every article of subsistence peculiar to the country, and breed large cattle.

Guaratingueta, situated upon the right bank of the Parahiba, which affords it an ample supply of fish, is a considerable town, about twenty-five miles to the east of Pindamonhangaba, embellished with a large church, dedicated to St. Antonio, a chapel of the Lady of Rosario, and another of St. Gonçalo. The houses, similar to those of St. Paulo and other places, are constructed of[185] taipa. Its inhabitants cultivate much tobacco, and breed hogs and large cattle. Cotton cloths and sugar are the principal branches of commerce. About two miles distant from it is the famous and much visited chapel of the Lady of Apparecida.

Lorena, a middling town, upon the right margin of the Parahiba, ten miles east of Guaratingueta and seven above the mouths of the Imbauhi, which flows from the Mantiqueira mountains, and of the Bocaina, which comes from the south, is situated at the passage to Minas Geraes denominated Porto do Meyra, and has a church called Piedade: Guaipicure was its primitive name.

In the district of Lorena, where legumes and rice grow abundantly, and large quantities of hogs and poultry are bred, the parish of St. Anna das Areas is situated. It has been recently dismembered of that portion of territory now constituting the parish of Bannanal.

A league below Lorena there is another passage to the province of Minas Geraes, called Porto da Cachoeira.

Cunha, formerly Facao, is yet an inconsiderable town; but, from its advantageous situation upon a serra in the vicinity of the Jacuhy, and about twenty-five miles north of Parati, is susceptible of much improvement. It has a church, of which the Lady of Conceiçao is the patroness. The climate is salubrious, and the nights of June and July are fresh, and even the natives feel them cold. Hitherto the flowers and fruit trees of Europe have prospered better here than in any other situation of the torrid zone. In its environs there are extensive groves of majestic pines, and the inhabitants raise the common productions of the country, abundance of Indian corn, and large quantities of poultry and pigs. An indifferent road or track connects this town with Parati, and would, if made equally easy and secure with those of the arraial of Cubatao, for the transport of its productions to St. Paulo and Santos, become a flourishing district.

Parahitinga, a medium town, and well situated upon the left bank of the river which affords it the name, is seven miles above the embouchure of the Parahibuna and forty north of the town of Ubatuba. St. Luiz is the patron of its church, which, with an extensive bridge over the river that bathes it, are the only objects worthy the observation of the traveller. The inhabitants breed a great number of hogs, which constitute the principal branch of their commerce.

Jundiahi is a middling and flourishing town, one mile distant from the left bank of the river from which its name is borrowed, thirty-five miles to the northnorth-west[186] of St. Paulo, and the same distance to the east-north-east of Hitu. It has a good church of Our Lady of Desterro, an hospicio of Benedictines, and a bridge over the river, which is stocked, amongst other fish, with those called jundias, from which it derived the name. Its inhabitants raise cattle, mules, horses, and large quantities of the sugar cane, and have for the extraction of its juice various engenhos, or works; also abundance of legumes and Indian corn, with which they furnish the caravans passing from Goyaz.

Tibaya, or Atibaya, situated near the river of the same name, has a church called St. Joam, is yet small, and is thirty-five miles north-north-east of St. Paulo, an equal distance east of Jundiahi, and as far west of St. Joze. The inhabitants raise feijao, Indian corn, wheat, and hogs.

Bragança, which is ten miles to the north-east of Tibaya, is yet inconsiderable, but the inhabitants are said to live in abundance, raise pigs in large quantities, wheat, Indian corn, and legumes.

Mugi-Mirim, situated on the road of Goyaz, upon the river of the same name, which a little below unites itself with the Mugi-Guassu, is in a state of mediocrity, and well supplied with the necessaries of life, particularly fish and meat. It has engenhos of sugar, farms of cattle, and only one church, dedicated to St. Joze. Upon the northern bank of the Mugi-Guassu, where this river traverses the road to the town of Mugi-Mirim, is the arraial and parish which takes its name, with a church of the Lady of Conceiçao. Its inhabitants are farmers of mandioca, feijao, and Indian corn, and breeders of cattle and hogs. The parish of Franca is the most northern of the province; the inhabitants extend themselves to the margin of the Grande, breed cattle, and cultivate those necessaries which the territory best affords. The church is dedicated to Nossa Senhora da Conceiçao.

Sorocaba is situated where the river of its name traverses the royal road of Curytiba to the capital, from which it is distant sixty miles to the west. It is a flourishing and considerable town, ornamented with a church of the Lady of Ponte, a recolhimento of women, an hospicio of Bentos, and a hermitage of St. Antonio. Its actual population is composed of seventeen hundred and seventy-seven families, of which two-thirds are whites; they breed cattle and horses, and cultivate cotton, sugar, and Indian corn, with the most common necessaries of the country, but their principal profits arise from trafficking in cattle, which come from the southern districts. In its environs there are calcareous stone and good flint stone. The royal fabric of Hipannema, distant about seven miles, and established near a small stream of the same name, for the reception of the[187] produce of rich mines of iron in the serra Guarassoiava, will tend to render this town still more considerable. Many years ago a mine of silver was discovered in the district of Guarassoiava, which was abandoned, in consequence of its poverty and difficult extraction.

Itapitininga, yet an inconsiderable town, and well situated in a vast and delightful plain near the royal road, is two miles from the right bank of the river from which it has the name. It is embellished with a church of the Lady of Merces, is well provided with water, and is about forty miles to the south of Sorocaba. The people who inhabit it cultivate wheat, legumes, and abundance of Indian corn. The peach and grape are plentiful and of good flavour, and, as in most other cultivated districts of this province, the breed of cattle is numerous.

Itapeva, situated near the royal road, or estrada real, as it is denominated, in the vicinity of the Verde, is at present inconsiderable; it has a church, dedicated to St. Anna.

Appiahi, a town of the same class as the preceding, is at a great distance from the road, near the source of the river from which it derives its name, and in the vicinity of a morro, from whence, at its origin, much gold was extracted. It has one church.

Hitu, a large and flourishing town, is the head of the comarca of its name, having a church of the Lady of Candellaria, a Franciscan convent, an hospicio of slippered Carmelites, an hospital of Lazars, with its hermitage, others of Bom Jezus, the Lady of Patrocinio, and Santa Rita. All its buildings are of taipa, and some streets are paved. It has the usual royal professors, and is situated twenty-five miles to the north-north-east of Sorocaba, sixty to the west-north-west of St. Paulo, and two from the left margin of the Tiete, which forms at this situation a large and interesting fall, by the name of which this town is designated. Excessive heat is experienced here in the summer months. The soil in the environs is peculiarly adapted to the culture of the sugar cane, of which there are extensive plantations, constituting the riches of its inhabitants, who also raise cattle and divers necessaries of life.

Porto Feliz, formerly called Araritaguaba, is a moderate town, with houses of wood, seated upon the left margin of the Tiete. It has a church of the Lady May dos Homens, (Mother of Men,) is nearly eighteen miles to the west of Hitu, and twenty-five to the north-north-west of Sorocaba, and is the port of the navigators to Cuiaba. The inhabitants are cattle-breeders, and cultivate the cane, feijao, and Indian corn.

St. Carlos, now so named from its church, but originally called Campinas, is situated near a small stream, something more than a league from the Tibaia, and six to the north of Hitu, and does not at present surpass mediocrity, but is well supplied and enjoys facilities for becoming more considerable. It is a land abounding with waters and wood, consequently well adapted for the culture of the cane, of which there are at present some rich plantations, also of wheat, feijao, and Indian corn. It is upon the road from Jundiahi to Mugi-Mirim; from the latter it is eight leagues distant in a direct line. Its district is bounded on the west by the new parish of Percicaba, whose church is situated in a delightful plain that terminates in a small hill upon the southern margin of the river that affords it the name, and near a beautiful cascade of great height, which presents a barrier to further navigation. Rich in majestic woods, and of great fertility, it is favourable to various branches of agriculture, particularly the cane, of which there are plantations and engenhos.

The Vincentistas having reduced the Guanhana, and Carijo nations, they began to make incursions beyond the Paranna, in pursuit of other Indians equally pusillanimous, and less numerous. Aleixo Garcia and his brother or son, accompanied by a numerous band of domestic Indians, having passed the Paraguay, and penetrated to the proximity of the Andes in the middle of the sixteenth century, were the first known discoverers of the southern part of this vast province; and Manuel Correa, a Paulista (as well as the others) having passed the Araguaya, a considerable time afterwards, penetrated to its northern part.

It will be difficult perhaps, to ascertain the names of the other certanistas, or commandants of bandeiras,[20] who visited this territory in quest of Indians,[190] during the interval from its discovery to the year 1718, when Antonio Pires de Campos, also a Paulista, proceeded up the river Cuiaba in search of the Cuchipo Indians, who had an aldeia, where at this day is situated the hermitage of St. Gonçalo. In the following year Pascoal Moreira Cabral advanced up the river Cuchipo Mirim, and very soon discovered granites of gold. He left here a portion of his company to accumulate as much as possible of it, and proceeded higher up the river, with the greater part of the bandeirantes, as far as the situation at present called Forquilha, where they caught some young Indians ornamented with pieces of gold, which proved that the country abounded with that metal; they were most diligent in their searches after it, and collected a considerable portion. Returning to the party left behind, they descended with them the river below, to the aldeia which Antonio Pires had visited the preceding year, where each one exhibited the quantity of gold he had collected. Some found themselves possessed of one hundred oitavas, (2dwt. 7⅜gr. each,) others of half a pound weight, and many more of smaller portions, but they were generally well satisfied; those who accompanied Captain Moreira Cabral had exceeded the rest in good fortune. He had for his own share one pound and a half of gold. The whole party greatly lamented the want of mining instruments, as they were compelled to use their hands in removing the earth or sand. They soon began to construct cabanas, or dwelling places upon the margins of the rivers, determined to persist as long as the precious ore lasted. A few weeks had only elapsed, when another bandeira arrived at the new establishment, having been upon the margins of the river St. Lourenço, where they received intelligence of this discovery, and determined to augment the party.

The whole now consulted upon the circumstances attending their situation, and resolved to despatch Joze Gabriel Antunes to the city of St. Paulo, with samples of gold, and tidings of their success; also to announce to the governor their solicitude to receive the necessary instructions for the common weal and service of his Majesty. On the same day, the 8th of April, 1719, on which this resolution was formed, the party unanimously elected Captain Pascoal Moreira Cabral for their guarda mor regente until the arrival of orders from the[191] governor of St. Paulo, investing him with much authority, and promising him implicit obedience. Antunes consumed many months, from the various difficulties which beset his way, before he reached St. Paulo, where the new discovery of the mines being divulged, numerous persons took their departure for them the following year, in various caravans, none of which arrived at Cuiaba without loss; many died on the way of fevers and different disasters. The misfortunes and losses which the numerous bandeiras, that continued to bend their course towards this province, annually sustained, were the result of ill-regulated measures, and the absence of judicious combinations for preventing disorder upon the march, and obviating the palpable neglect of proceeding without fishing instruments, which would have preserved many from famishing, and without fire arms for shooting game, or defence against wild animals and the natives.

In the same year the arraial or establishment was removed to the situation of Forquilha, where Cabral had found a better vein of gold; and in the following, one Miguel Sutil, from Sorocaba, having taken up a station with his party upon the margin of the Cuiaba, two Carijos, or domestic Indians, sent into the woods in search of honey, brought him at night twenty-three pieces, folhetas, or lamina, of gold, which weighed one hundred and twenty oitavas, stating that there was more in the wood where they had found it. Sutil, highly delighted, next morning went with his European comrade, Joam Francisco, called by way of nickname Barbado, and all his domestic establishment, conducted by the two Carijos to the place where they had found the precious metal, and which is the present site of the town of Cuiaba. Here they spent the day, gathering with their hands all the gold upon the surface of the ground, or thinly covered, and desisting only with the termination of daylight; they assembled late at their bivouacs, when Sutil found that he had accumulated half an arroba, or sixteen pounds weight, of gold, and Barbado upwards of four hundred oitavas. This adventure becoming known at the arraial of Forquilha, caused its removal to the situation where Sutil and Barbado had been so successful, and where it was calculated that four hundred arrobas of gold were collected in one month, without the excavations exceeding four fathoms in depth.

In this same year the governor Rodrigo Cezar de Menezes arrived at St. Paulo, whose first concern was to exact the payment of the royal fifths upon this metal. With this intention he nominated two brothers, resident at St. Paulo, of distinguished birth and fortune, Lourenço Leme to the situation of Procurador of the Fifths, and John Leme to the post of Master de Campo of[192] the same mines. Those two individuals, in consequence of the liberty with which they had always triumphed over the laws, were imprudently selected; and now considered themselves more than ever authorised to consult with impunity their own caprices. On arriving at the arraial, they adopted the most violent and absurd measures, and wished to expel from the mines all those who were not Paulistas. The chaplain remonstrating against this injustice, they ordered a shot to be fired at him, which, erring in its object, killed one of his friends. Actuated by the same lawless spirit, they ordered one Pedro Leite to be inhumanly insulted at the time he was hearing mass, merely from some feeling of jealousy entertained against him. These and other atrocities, which they committed, induced the governor-general to transmit orders for their being arrested and sent prisoners to St. Paulo. They received intimation of this circumstance from one of their relatives, and on the arrival of the Master de Campo, Balthazar Ribeiro, to execute the commands of the governor, they had already fortified themselves in a remote place, accompanied by their partizans, where an attack was ineffectually made upon them. In a short time, however, after the loss of some lives on both sides, they fled to the interior with a great number of their followers, but were pursued until Lourenço Leme was killed by a shot, and his brother taken prisoner, and subsequently sent, with a summary of his crimes, to the city of Bahia, the relaçam of which city ordered him to be executed in 1724.

The prodigious amount of quintos, or fifths, which were received at St. Paulo in the year 1723, and the termination of the jurisdiction of the rapacious Lemes, excited an universal spirit in that city for mining. Every one was desirous of becoming a miner of Cuiaba, notwithstanding the calamities attached to so laborious and prolonged a voyage. Of more than three hundred persons, who in the year 1725 departed from St. Paulo, with upwards of twenty canoes, only two white men, and three negroes escaped. All the rest were killed or made prisoners in an encounter which they had with an Indian armada (the Payagoas) in the river Paraguay, in front of the embouchure of the Harez. Although the Paulistas knew that the Payagoas were celebrated mariners, they were totally ignorant of this nation possessing so numerous a fleet.

It may be proper to remark here, that the first Paulistas who entered the river Paraguay met with two nations, denominated Payagoas, and Guaycurus; both numerous and formidable; the first from its large armadas, and the second from the dexterity of the natives on horseback, from which they[193] acquired the denomination of Cavalleiros. The Payagoas, from time immemorial, were always masters of the navigation of the Paraguay and its confluents, as far as nature offered no impediments. The Guaycurus had also always possessed the adjacencies of the same river, for the space of three hundred and fifty miles at least.

As it is an indubitable fact, that there were no horses in South America previous to its discovery by Pinson, in 1500, and that they were first introduced into this country by its two conquering nations, Spain and Portugal, it cannot be difficult to define, with tolerable certainty, the epoch when the Guaycurus first obtained these animals, which they used at all times, even in their shortest excursions, and with which they rendered themselves so formidable to all the circumjacent nations, not excepting the conquerors of the country. It would appear probable that they first derived the horse from the colonists of Assumption, rather than from those of Peru. If they were in former times powerful in war canoes, they only retained a sufficient number for passing from one to the other side of rivers, on discovering that the horse was more useful and advantageous for war, or for depredations upon the distant tribes. Such was the state of those two nations about the year 1720, when their reciprocal aversion was converted into a firm alliance, the Guaycurus soon becoming equally formidable upon both elements, with an establishment of war canoes little inferior to that of the Payagoas.

They continued to annoy the rising province from the year 1725 to the year 1768, at which period a disunion occurred, and the Payagoas descended to the low Paraguay, formed an alliance, or, more properly speaking, subjected themselves to the Spaniards of the province of Paranna, where they fixed their habitations, and have lived since 1774, a little below Assumption. Two causes are said to have influenced the Payagoas in this separation; the great diminution of numbers which they had sustained in repeated conflicts with the Spaniards and Portuguese, and their jealousy of the Guaycurus, who they now found were not less powerful upon the waters than in the field.

The Guaycurus persevered in the same hostility, although less frequent and less destructive, as will presently be detailed, till the year 1791, when the principal captains of this nation, Emavidi Channe, who assumed the name of Paulo Joaquim Ferreira, and Queyma, who took the name of Joam Queyma d’Albuquerque, accompanied by seventeen of their warriors, with a Brazilian creole, their slave or prisoner, for an interpreter, spontaneously came to solicit peace at Villa Bella, where, in the palace of the governor, and in the presence[194] of the senate, they made a treaty of perpetual friendship and alliance, agreeing to become the vassals of his faithful Majesty. Letters-patent, securing to them the necessary privileges, were granted, which shall be transcribed when we conclude the history of this important nation. We will now return to the proceedings of the Paulistas, in reference to the early colonization of this province.

In the year 1727, the governor Menezes arrived at the new arraial, and gave it the title of Villa Real (royal town) of Cuiaba. The following year he left this town, and proceeded up the river Tocoary, to which was transferred, in 1729, the navigation from the Embotatiu, with the intention of avoiding, at least in part, the attacks of the Indians. From this change, however, no advantage resulted, in consequence of the trifling distance between these two rivers. The first division which left Cuiaba in the year 1730, with upwards of sixty arrobas (thirty-two pounds each) of gold, accompanied by Doctor Antonio Alvez Peixoto, who had accomplished the period of his ouvidorship, was attacked in the Pantanos,[21] by an armada of eighty war canoes, manned by more than eight hundred Indians. The pillage lasted for a considerable time, and only seventeen Christians escaped by swimming to land. It was computed that these warlike Indians lost more than four hundred combatants on this occasion. Some gold, which they carried off, with many prisoners, the Payagoas parted with at such a low price in the city of Assumption, that an Indian exchanged, with one Donna Quiteria de Banhos, six pounds weight for a pewter plate. At this period, a singular branch of commerce flourished in this city, which was in the disposal of cats, at exorbitant prices; the first pair of those animals that were brought to Assumption were sold for one pound of gold, and their progeny at thirty oitavas, and so on, till the augmentation of this race proportionably reduced their value. The extraordinary value of cats in this place, was occasioned by the houses and stores of Indian corn, &c. being infested with prodigious swarms of rats.

In 1730, the Brigadier Antonio de Almeida sent various persons, in two canoes of war, to procure a quantity of the sugar cane, which had been observed two years previously, by some certanistas, growing upon the borders of the river St. Lourenço. This party returned, at the expiration of two months, with a considerable supply of the cane, of which a plantation was formed, and it[195] prospered so abundantly, that in the following year there were numerous planters. The juice of the cane was generally distilled into spirit, and the demand for it was so great, that a flagon of it sold at first for ten oitavas of gold. From the use of this spirit, the pallid aspect of the people gave way to a better complexion; and the diminution of fevers, as well as the mortality amongst slaves, became rapidly manifest.

In this same year, an armament of thirty canoes of war and fifty transports, with six hundred men, two pieces, and a great number of muskets, were despatched in pursuit of an enemy’s squadron, which had advanced to the mouth of the Cuiaba, where it made some fishermen prisoners. This armada having proceeded to the mouth of the Embotatiu, a division of the Indians was descried, which, with loud yellings, suddenly disappeared. After a pursuit of several days’ voyage, which carried it beyond the strait where the waters of the Paraguay are compressed between two morros, (large rocks,) the armada one morning unexpectedly encountered an Indian fleet. The Indians, giving the signal of attack by loud and discordant war-hoops, came furiously to the onset; but the thunder of the musketry and pieces, which were discharged upon them at the same instant, as quickly produced a retrograde movement, and they were pursued in their precipitate flight by the Portuguese, as far as the aldeia of Tavatim, from whence the latter returned, after having destroyed a great many canoes found there.

In the year 1732, all the canoes accomplished their destination with safety; but in the following year, a fleet, consisting of fifty canoes, was destroyed, and on the arrival of the few persons who escaped at Cuiaba, a squadron of thirty canoes of war, and seventy of transport, was equipped, and confided to the command of Lieutenant-General Manuel Rodrigues de Carvalho.

About the middle of August, 1734, this powerful fleet entered the Paraguay, and having navigated a month without encountering an enemy, they one morning discovered at day-break various fires at the bottom of a bay, apparently difficult of access, towards which, however, they proceeded in great silence, without being observed, till they arrived almost within gun-shot. The Indians, perceiving themselves thus surprised and surrounded, raised a most horrible yell, to which the Portuguese responded by a discharge of upwards of four hundred muskets, which occasioned great havoc amongst them. Two hundred and ninety-two were made prisoners, including wounded and children, who could not follow the fugitives to the woods. The whole were shortly afterwards baptized.

In 1735, after the return of this armament from the Paraguay, and the arrival of a fleet from St. Paulo, consisting of one hundred and twelve canoes, the mines were divided which Fernando de Barroz (a Sorrocabano) had discovered three years before, a short distance from the present site of Villa Bella, the capital of this province, and where the new colonists died in great numbers from a malignant fever, caused by some neighbouring stagnant pools. In the following year the numerous fleet from St. Paulo was attacked by an Indian armada, considerably superior, at the situation of Caranda, on the day of St. Joze. The conflict lasted several hours, in which were killed, amongst others, their brave commandant Pedro de Moraes and Frey Antonio Nascentes, a Franciscan friar, whose extraordinary powers and intrepidity had acquired him the by-name of Tiger. Many others distinguished themselves more fortunately in this conflict, from which they issued conquerors, having caused a horrible carnage amongst the savages. None, however, displayed more bravery than a mulatto, from Pindamonhangaba, called Manuel Rodriguez, and, vulgarly, Manduassu, Manuel the Great, in consequence of his immense stature, strength, and courage. This gigantic man, who commanded his own canoe, in which he was accompanied by his wife, of the same colour, and various slaves, being attacked by two Indian war canoes, defended himself with such valour and dexterity that neither were able to board him; at one time he discharged a musket, which his wife successively loaded for him, at another he wielded a vara, (a long pole for impelling the canoe,) the strokes of which were fatal to all those who came within his reach. On his arrival at Cuiaba he was presented with the commission of a captain.

In the same year a road was opened to the territory of Goyaz, (so called from the Goya Indians,) from whence upwards of fifteen hundred persons departed, with horses and numerous troops of mules, besides those who descended by the river St. Lourenço, attracted by the announcement of gold which had been found in Matto Grosso, from whence, in fact, eighty arrobas of that metal were despatched the same year to St. Paulo in eight canoes of war, each furnished with sixteen chosen men, and commanded by Lieutenant-General Manuel Rodrigues de Carvalho, who conducted them in security, and put an Indian division to flight which attacked them at the entrance of the Pantanos. With this intelligence almost the whole population of Cuiaba left that town for the newly-discovered mines of Matto Grosso, (Large Woods.) Five hundred oitavas were paid for negroes, and they were cheap, from the gain which they afforded.

In 1740 the Indians were again beaten, at the embouchure of the Tacoary, by the fleet from St. Paulo, commanded by Jeronimo Gonsalves, (an Hituan,) who arrived at Matto Grosso with a great number of lances, or spears, that belonged to the Indians who perished in the combat, he having himself lost four canoes laden with merchandise and slaves. After his arrival some domestic Bororo Indians brought intelligence that the Spanish Jesuits had established themselves near the heads of the Paraguay, reducing into aldeias the Guaraparez tribe.

It being well known that this step was not taken for want of Indians to convert in the vicinity of their own missions, the Portuguese counselled them to retire peaceably, which advice was disregarded. The inconstancy, however, of the catechumens obliged the catechists to retrace their steps to the aldeias of the province of St. Cruz de la Sierra, before measures were taken for their expulsion.

In the year 1742 Manuel de Lima descended, with five Indians, three mulattoes, and a negro, in a canoe, by the Guapore, Madeira, and Amazons, to the city of Para.

At the same period that Manuel de Lima descended the Madeira, one Joaquim Ferreira, with other traders, advanced up the Mamore to the mission of Exaltaçao. The same persons, or others with a similar intention, returning the following year, found the mission of St. Rosa newly erected upon the eastern margin of the Guapore, almost in front of the outlet by which they had entered to St. Miguel the preceding year. The jesuitical curate determining to impede their navigation of the river, it was conjectured that, for the better effecting this project, he shortly afterwards removed the mission of St. Miguel also to the same side, and founded that of St. Simao further to the north. It notwithstanding appears that the people of Matto Grosso did not desist from the navigation of this river.[22]

In 1743 the combined Indians observing certain signals at the mouths of the Tocoary of a fleet having passed forward, they proceeded up in pursuit of it as far as the reducto of Sappe, in the vicinity of the town of Cuiaba, where they killed some fishermen.

A series of such calamities produced a resolution of the ouvidor, Joam Gonsalves, in a junta with the senate and the principal persons of the town, to endeavour to obviate hostilities, through the medium of a firm friendship with the Guaycuru Indians, they not being considered so inveterate against the Portuguese, whose maledictions fell upon the Payagoa tribe, attributing to them alone all the injuries they had sustained. With this intention, a squadron of six canoes of war and six of transport, was sent, under the command of Captain Antonio de Medeiros, with a considerable quantity of articles most esteemed by the Indians, equally for the purpose of making presents as to exchange for horses. Having arrived at an island in front of a post occupied by the Guaycurus, the commandant sent an Indian, versed in their language, with two white soldiers, to the chief of the party, soliciting him to come to the island, as he was desirous to make him some presents, and to enter into a negotiation. On the following day the Indian captain presented himself, with a numerous band of men and women, upon the beach nearest to the island, and with the three deputies sent two of his to Medeiros requesting him to come and parley on land, the two Indians to remain as hostages upon the island. Medeiros immediately proceeded to the other side with a considerable part of his force, and an assortment of various articles, with which he complimented the captain and his relations. He then proposed the projected negotiation, which was to effect a cessation of hostilities with the Payagoas, and to barter horses for European merchandise; to all which the Indian promptly assented.

On the following day a large party of Portuguese passed to the other side, in order to traffic with the Indians, without any kind of arms, imprudently confiding in the apparent demonstrations of sincerity which they had evinced; when, about nine o’clock, those who had remained with Medeiros in the squadron perceived a tumult amongst the savages, which convinced them that their comrades were lost. They immediately fired upon them, when the traitors instantly fled, fifty Christians remaining dead upon the field. This disaster terminated all hopes of a friendly negotiation.

In 1744 the Indians were routed by the Paulista fleet, without the Christians sustaining more loss than one negro, from the wound of a lance. Notwithstanding the disaster which the savages experienced on this occasion, they[199] boldly advanced up the Paraguay the same year, as far as the passage from Cuiaba to Matto Grosso; and, disembarking at an early hour near the establishment of Joam d’Oliveira, set fire to his house, and killed several people.

On the 24th of September, in this year, at mid-day, in clear weather, a subterraneous noise was heard, and the earth immediately quaked, continuing to experience various tremulous agitations, which produced considerable alarm in all places of Matto Grosso and Cuiaba. At this period, a drought already prevailed, which lasted till 1749. All the woods were parched up, and no longer exhibited any foliage; the atmosphere was now only the vehicle of smoke; all living creatures suffered from famine and other calamities; and death stalked in universal triumph.

The earthquake, which, in October two years afterwards, 1746, agitated the territory of Peru, and destroyed the city of Lima, its capital, was here very sensibly felt; filling every living creature with sudden dread, but unattended with worse consequences.

Before the conclusion of this same year, the Captain Joao de Souza, descended the Arinos, Tapajoz, and the Amazons, to Para, and returned the following year by the Madeira, with European merchandise; after his arrival, other dealers departed by the same route, which has been frequented to this day, in spite of the great difficulties to which this prolonged voyage has hitherto been subject.

Two years had almost elapsed, before the rains had reanimated the face of the country, given verdure to the foliage of the unbounded woods, renovated the springs, arrested the ravages of death, and facilitated journeys by land; when, about the beginning of January, 1751, a numerous fleet arrived at Cuiaba, accompanied by Don Antonio Rolin de Moura, as governor of the new province, a Juiz de Fora, (Theotonio de Sylva Gusmao,) two Jesuits, and a troop of dragoons. At the end of this year, the governor proceeded to the mines of Matto Grosso, with the intention of promoting the navigation discovered by Manuel de Lima to Gram Para, and to compel the retrocession of the Spanish Jesuits established on the right margin of the Guapore. D. Antonio Rolin, commanded to found a town in the situation best adapted for the effectuating those projects, selected for its site a place called Pouzoalegre, founded and named it on the 19th of March, 1752; and, on the 25th of November, by order of the bishop of Rio de Janeiro, the hermitage of St. Anna was converted into its mother church.

With the opening of the roads to Bahia and Rio de Janeiro, and with the[200] new navigation of Gram Para, that of Camapuan began to be less frequented. The miners who were interested in proceeding to St. Paulo by this fatal way never accomplished it, except with a considerable number of canoes, equipped with chosen men, and armed with the best instruments of defence; and occasionally accompanied by canoes of war to a certain situation in the river Tocoary, where they waited for the Paulista fleet to protect them through the passage of the Pantanos.

Subsequent to the separation, already mentioned, of the two nations, one of the most disastrous hostilities which the Portuguese experienced from the Guaycurus was in May, 1775, when they proceeded up the Paraguay, in twenty canoes, nearly to Villa Maria, where they assassinated sixteen persons, and carried off many others prisoners.

The foundation of the prezidio, or garrison, of Nova Coimbra, in the same year, upon the western margin of the Paraguay, ought to have been, according to the order of General L. d’Alburquerque, forty leagues further to the south, at the place called Fecho dos Morros, where it would have contributed to the protection of the navigators of St. Paulo. The author of the Guaycurus, (written in this prezidio by one of its governors,) says, that he could but partially embarrass the passage of the Indians, or prevent the flight of deserters; and that its founder had committed an error, from whence resulted the entrance of the Spaniards into the dominions of his faithful Majesty, where they founded Villa Real, St. Carlos, and St. Joze.

The last hostility which the Portuguese sustained from the Guaycurus, was the atrocious assassination of fifty soldiers in a plain fronting Nova Coimbra, in January, 1781, at the time they were bartering some articles with the barbarians who had been there twice before with demonstrations of friendship.

The prezidio of Nova Coimbra was besieged in September, 1801, by the Spaniards, who proceeded from the city of Assumption with four escunas and twenty canoes. It was the first time that the thunder of contending artillery had been heard in the centre of South America, and from which the Guaycuru and Payagoa warriors formed an idea of the European mode of warfare. The commencement of hostilities produced the following correspondence between the Spanish and Portuguese commandants:—

“I had the honour, last evening, to contest the fire of the fort under the command of your Honour; and having ascertained that the force with which I am about to attack it is much superior to that of your Honour, which cannot fail to reduce it to the ultimate state of misfortune; and as the vassals of[201] his Catholic Majesty know how to respect the laws of humanity, an opportunity is offered, and your Honour is required to surrender the fort to the arms of the King my master; on the contrary the cannon and the sword will decide the fate of Coimbra, and its unfortunate garrison will suffer all the extremities of war, from which calamity it will see itself delivered, if your Honour complies with my proposal. Furnish me with your decision categorically, in the course of one hour. On board of the Escuna, Nossa Senhora do Carmo, 17th of September, 1801.

“I have the honour to reply categorically to your Excellency, that the inequality of force always was a stimulus which greatly animated the Portuguese not to forsake their posts, and to defend themselves to the two extremities, either of repelling the enemy, or burying themselves below the ruins of forts confided to them. In this resolution are all the individuals of this prezidio, who have the distinguished honour of seeing in front of it the exalted person of your Excellency, whom God preserve.

The assailants withdrew with some loss, after being nine days ineffectually attempting to carry the fort.

This province, which lies between the parallel of 7° where it joins that of Para, and 24° 30′ of south latitude where it borders upon that of Paranna, occupies a territory of nearly eleven hundred miles from north to south, with almost eight hundred at its greatest width, being more extensive than ancient Germany.

On its western limits it has the Spanish possessions, from which it is separated by the rivers Guapore, Jauru, and Paraguay, and on the eastern the river Paranna, which divides it from the province of St. Paulo, and the Araguaya, which separates it from that of Goyaz. It comprises nearly four climates, entering twenty leagues into the temperate zone. A country so extensive necessarily admits of a considerable variety in every point of view in which it can be regarded. Nature itself has partitioned it into three grand districts, or comarcas, of which two are divided into six smaller ones, and their limits (also natural) will become, perhaps, on some future day, those appropriated for the formation of the same number of ouvidorias, when the accumulation of its population may render such a measure desirable.

District of Camapuania.

The rivers Tocoary, Cochim, Camapuan, and Pardo, the origin of which approximating, the three first flowing westward and the last eastward, separate the district of Camapuania into north and south, the northern limits of which is a chain of mountains, that in the latitude of about 13° extend themselves from east to west, and from whence emanate the Paraguay and its first branches to the southward, and those which form the Tapajos and the Zingu to the northward.

This district, which derives its name from the river Camapuan, is bounded on the west by the river Paraguay; on the south by the Chichuhi and Igurey; on the east by the Paranna; and comprises a tract of territory of upwards of three hundred and fifty miles square. It is a country almost universally flat, and has its woods chiefly in the vicinity of the rivers. It consists principally either of catingas (not adapted to agriculture) or plains, and is irrigated by a great number of rivers, the most considerable of which originate in a range of land from north to south, of very trifling elevation, and denominated the serra Amambuhi, dividing the canton into east and west. A vast portion of the western part is annually submerged by the inundations of the Paraguay, which in some parts covers more than seventy miles of plain.

Mineralogy.—Gold, calcareous stone, granite, variety of argils, diamonds, and other precious stones.

Phytology.—The vegetable on which the cochineal breeds, and the shrub which produces matte, are very common in various situations; a diversity of palm trees, caju-nut trees, four sorts of excellent guabiroba fruit, three of the uvaspiriticas, the fruit similar to a grape, and the plant to the strawberry. The Paraguaynians make various beverages of it.

Rivers.—The Tocoary, Pardo, Mondego, Igatimy, Correntes, Ippanne Guaçu, Miamaya, Ivinheima, and the Negro, are the principal.

The river Pardo, (Grey,) so called from the colour of its waters, is formed by[203] the Sanguexuga and the Vermelho. The latter, of a green colour, partaking of the hue of its bed, is small, and flows from the north. The Sanguexuga, (the Leach,) so called from passing near a lake where they are excellent, originates a few miles to the south-west of the Camapuan, and is navigable for the space of five or six leagues. Its water is crystalline and excellent as far as the confluence with the former. The Pardo is considerable, and so rapid that canoes advance against its stream by the use of the vara with great labour; water falls and currents increasing more and more from its centre upwards, which render the navigation more tedious than any other river which the Cuiabanos navigate, who consume almost two months in proceeding up to the situation where the navigation of only two hundred and eighty miles terminates, computing by water. Its course is winding towards the south-east, through delightful plains at the commencement, where the navigator passes the white deer, anta, tamandua, wild hog, wolf, fox, emu ostrich, seriema, partridge, &c. which invite him to the diversion of shooting.

These plains continue to the falls of Caiuru Guaçu and Caiuru Mirim, which are situated about the middle of the extent of this river, with an interval of three miles one from the other. From this situation downwards, both margins are clothed with woods, abounding more in honey than fruits, and only one small fall or current is met with, called Capoeiras, eighteen miles below that of Caiuru Mirim.

The principal falls of this river are the Caiuru Guaçu, Tijuco, Tacoaral, Tamandua, Curao, which is the largest of the whole, and near fifty palms in height, Ballo, Lage Grande, Lage Pequena, Banco Grande, Banco Pequena. In passing these, the canoes are conveyed by land;—Caiuru Mirim, Banquinho, Cirga Comprida, Empirucu, Mangaval, Cirga do Campo, Manuel Rodrigues, Sucuri, Embirucu Mirim, another called Embirucu, Paredao, Furado, Formigueiro, Pedras d’Amolar, Vermelho, Tocoarapaia, past all which canoes are dragged by a warp, with but half a cargo, and double the number of people. There are others passed with full cargoes, the canoes being impelled by a greater or less number of men.

Upon the banks of the Pardo, two sorts of the palm are seen, which are not met with near any of the other rivers of the Cuiabana navigation. One called guacuman, slender and six or seven feet in height, of which a good bait for fish is made; the other, denominated brutiz, is high and thick with leaves seven feet long. The Indians, and also the ancient certanistas, made of its fruit a wine, very similar to that of the red grape in colour and taste.

The principal rivers which enlarge the Pardo are the Anhanduhi Guaçu, Anhanduhi Mirim, and Sucuri; they join it by the right margin. The last and smallest disembogues fifty miles below the Vermelho. The first, rising in the centre of the province, discharges itself into the Pardo, seventy miles above its embouchure. The Anhanduhi Mirim enters it forty miles below the Sucuri. Fifteen miles above the mouth of the Vermelho, is the port of Sanguexuga on the left margin of the river of the same name, where the canoes, which proceed up the river Pardo, are unloaded and conducted in carretas, (a sort of cart with four wheels, drawn by six or seven bullocks,) across an isthmus of near ten miles in width, through plains and woods to the port of Camapuan, on the left bank of the small river of that name, which originates near the first, in the skirts of the serro of Sacco. From hence, the navigation is only with half a cargo, and accomplished with prodigious labour (in consequence of the shoals and stones of which this river is full) to the Cochim, where the goods are deposited in ranchos, and well guarded, until the remainder of the cargoes are fetched. Forty miles are reckoned from the port to the mouth of this river, traversing woods deficient in fruits and game.

The river Cochim, which originates in the vicinity of the Sanguexuga, runs violently between sides, formed of steep and frightful rocks, which in some places are narrowed to four or five fathoms; in other parts it passes through extensive woods, affording little fruit, but abounding in game, where two sorts of palm trees, in great quantities, are observed, the one called guacuriz, the other bocayuvas. The principal of twenty-two falls, which interrupt the navigation of this river, are, Mangaval, five leagues below the mouth of the Camapuan; Pedra Branca, near thirty miles below the preceding; and Vare, all requiring double the number of persons to pass; Culapada, Furnas, Canellas d’Andre Alvez, Avanhandavussu, and Avanhandavu Mirim, two miles distant from each other; P. Luiz Antonio, which is very perilous; Jiquitaya; and Cachoeira da Ilha, which is three miles above the confluence of this river with the Tocoary. The principal streams which enlarge the Cochim are the Inferno, (Infernal River,) Sellada, and the Jauru, entering by the right margin; the Furado, Orelha d’Anta, Joam Bicudo, and the Tocoary Mirim, by the left. The latter enters near the embouchure of the Cochim.

The Tocoary has its heads near the boundary of Cayaponia, much to the north of Camapuan. When it receives the Cochim, it is already considerable, and near this confluence there is a large fall of its name, where the canoes are relieved of half the cargo, in order to pass it without danger. A little[205] lower there is another small one, denominated Belliago, the last of this river, (the ordinary width of which is here about sixty fathoms,) and also the last of one hundred and thirteen, which navigators encounter from Port Feliz to Cuiaba. The greater part of its course is through campinhas, with little wood, describing continual and short turnings, which give it an appearance to the navigator of his always being enclosed within a lake. It abounds in fish; but its waters are impregnated with a fine sand. Amongst other islands, which it forms, is that of Passaros, (or Birds,) so called on account of the infinite number that breed in it, and with which its trees are always laden: it discharges into the Paraguay, through many channels, which form a great number of islands, generally submerged during the floods of either river. These islands are denominated Pantanos, where, amongst other rare birds, is seen a beautiful one called anhupocas. It is the size of the inhuma, having also, like it, a horn upon the head, and spurs to the wings; it sings from midnight till day. Wild geese are exceedingly numerous, and for their exclusive sustenance nature here produces a prodigious quantity of wild rice, and of so large a size that no other bird can swallow it. Amongst other remarkable trees, on the margins of this river, the most esteemed is a species of palm tree, thicker round the trunk than the arms of a man can compass; its nuts, which are the size of an ostrich’s egg, supply the aliment of the Indian.

The river Mondego, otherwise Embotateu, originally Aranbahi, is considerable, and navigable nearly to its origin, which is a short distance from that of the Anhanduhi Guaçu, and runs into the Paraguay eighteen miles below the Tocoary. The largest of its tributaries, which enter by the right margin, is now called the river Verde. The last confluent of the Mondego, by the southern bank, is the small river Zezere, which rises near the inconsiderable serra of St. Barbara.

The Ivinbeima, which enters the Paranna by three mouths, flows from the interior of the province, whither it affords navigation; and receives by the left the Jaguary, a river little inferior to it.

The Negro, which is considerable, and would appear to be the Sambambaya of the first certanistas, runs into the Paranna twenty miles above the northern mouth of the Ivinheima.

The Miamaya, or Miamay, which is considered to be the river formerly called Amambahy, is large, and enters the Paranna forty miles below the southern arm of the Ivinheima.

The Igatimy, to which is given one hundred and fifty miles of extent, is[206] navigable very near to its source in the serra Amambahy. Eighty miles in a direct line from its embouchure is the passage of the Guaycurus, where the river is shallow. Twenty miles lower it receives on the left the small river Bogas; and thirty-five miles further, on the same side, the Escopil, which is little inferior, and flows from the same serra.

The name of this fine confluence is Forquilha. It is an advantageous point for the establishment of a colony. From hence to the Paranna, the distance is about thirty-five miles, with only two falls. Ten miles above this point, the first of twenty-one falls is encountered, all of them compressed within the space of ten miles; from these cataracts upwards, the river has no interruption to a little above the Guaycuru ford, already mentioned. The course is winding, the lateral lands low, and covered with impervious woods.

The Correntes, which appears to be the same that the Spaniards called Rio Branco, (White River,) is considerable, and enters the Paraguay fifty miles below the Fecho dos Morros, (closing of Rocks.)

The Ipanne Guaçu, after having watered an uninhabited territory, falls into the Paraguay one hundred miles below the Correntes.

At no great distance from the Igatimy are the heads of two small rivers called (the northern) Iguaray Assu, and (the southern) Iguaray Mirim, which after uniting, join the Chichuhi, a river that discharges itself into the Paraguay, in the latitude of 24° 12′. Neither the treaty of limits agreed upon in 1751 or 1777, mention this river, or any other as the divisionary line; but from the principal origin of the Igurey, the ninth article of the latter treaty, says, that the boundary is to continue in “a direct line, by the highest land, to the principal head of the nearest river which enters the Paraguay;” and the Chichuhi appears to answer best this adjustment. This river is also called Jejuhy, formed, it is said, by the Grande and Pequena Jejuhy, which after their junction receives on the left the Coruguaty.

Nearly fifteen miles to the south of the Igatimy, the river Igurey falls into the Paranna, which has formed the limits on that side, between the crowns of Spain and Portugal, since the year 1777.

Zoology.—There are antas of all colours, wolves, white deer, with all other species of quadrupeds known in the other provinces. The middle of the northern part of this province is called, in the journals or diaries of the certanistas, Vaccaria, (or Cattle Plains,) in consequence of the cattle that were here dispersed when the Paulistas expelled the inhabitants of the city Xerez, and of five neighbouring small aldeias, which formed a small province, of[207] which the said city was the head. The remainder of these animals, almost extinct from the devastations of the wild beast and the hunter, were augmented in 1797, by those which the Guaycurus carried off, when they plundered the Spanish plains of the town of Coruguaty; and also by such as escaped from the Coruguatynos, who pursued (to the number of upwards of fifteen hundred) the barbarian pillagers.

Various savage nations have dominion in this country; the Guaycuru is the most distinguished. At the present day they are divided into three bodies; one of which, without any alliance with other nations, live along the western margin of the Paraguay, subdivided into various hordes: the most southern are called Linguas by the neighbouring Spaniards; and when they infest the aldeias of the province of St. Cruz de la Sierra, are there known by the name Xiriquanos; others have the appellation of Cambaz. Those who possess the eastern vicinity of the same river, constitute the other two bodies; the southern are allied with the Spaniards, the northern with the Portuguese. The Fecho dos Morros, or an approximating situation, is the separating line. No difference is remarked of origin, idiom, and usages, amongst these three portions of Indians, otherwise declared enemies to each other. The allies of the Portuguese, extending from the Mondego southward, are divided into seven hordes, or large aldeias, generally friends to each other, and without the least difference in any respect. Chagoteo, Pacachodeo, Adioeo, Atiadeo, Oleo, Laudeo, and Cadioeo, are the names by which they are distinguished. In none of these aldeias, which would be better designated as large towns, are there any acknowledged superior to the rest. Each horde is composed of three classes of persons; the first, are a species of noblesse, entitled captains, and whose wives and daughters have the distinction of donas; the second, are denominated soldiers, or men whose military obedience descends from father to son; and the third, captives or slaves, comprising the prisoners of war and their descendants. There are but a few of the first in each aldeia, the second are very numerous, and the third exceed many times the number of the others taken conjointly. The captains and soldiers have an intermixed origin, and their title of gentility is joage. The slaves are of various nations, acquired in war, never undertaken with any other object, than for the augmentation of prisoners, in the number of which consists the degree of nobility, or distinction of the captains. These irruptions are exterminatory, taking away the lives of the elder people and the liberty of the younger. Such youthful captives soon forget their idiom and customs, and adopt those of the Guaycurus, and never[208] abscond, as their masters do not occupy them in any thing. It is reputed highly degrading for a senhor, or lord, to contract marriage with his slave; the son treats with contempt the mother who bore him by a slave.

The Guaycurus are of medium stature, well made, healthy, robust, and appear formed to the most painful and laborious undertakings. They eat many times in the day, very slowly, and their provisions are generally over-dressed, and cooked without any attention to cleanliness. They never suffer from indigestion. They are most particular in the diet which they use on occasions of their unfrequent indispositions. The scurvy never makes its appearance, and sudden deaths are never known. Bodily defects are exceedingly rare; blind persons sometimes are seen, but none are ever bald. Their teeth are almost universally irregular, in consequence of not extracting the first teeth of the youth when they change them, an omission arising from the tenderness with which they are treated; but they commonly retain them till death, although black enough, from the prodigious quantity of tobacco which they use. The women always carry a piece between the under lip and gums. They paint the body with the dye of the urucu and jenipapo, in which operation much symmetry is preserved. The youth have no certain usage in the disposal of their lank hair; the aged shave their heads similar to the lay Franciscans.

The women likewise shave their heads around, and clip the hair, leaving it three inches in length at the top. Their physiognomy is broad, and presents nothing agreeable in consequence of the dye which they introduce into the skin with thorns, forming lines, that commence at the roots of the hair, and terminate at the eyelids or the cheeks, and in some instances at the chin, where they give it the appearance of a chess board, an ash colour being so indelibly fixed, that it continues through life. They are usually wrapped up in a large cotton cloth, from the neck to the feet, striped with various colours; the more ostentatious ornament themselves with shells, the mother-pearl appearing outwards; some have upon them the figure of their horses, well drawn in black and white. Below this dress they wear a very wide girdle, called an ayulate; without which a girl from her birth is never seen. Ornamental strings of silver, in necklaces and bracelets for the arms and legs, and a plate of the same metal at the breast, are generally displayed, for the manufacture of which, a stone anvil and hammer are used. In former times, these ornaments consisted of wood, such as are yet seen amongst some of the poor.

Early in life they become meagre, and their skins, as well as those of the men at an advanced age, are remarkably wrinkled.

The men have no other clothing than a narrow girdle, or cinta of dyed cotton, which they tie round the middle of the body; and after they have had communication with the Europeans, they cover them with beads of divers colours, forming different devices. They ornament the head, arms, and legs, with plumes, or feathers, of various colours. They have the under lip perforated, and a cylinder of wood, almost as thick as a writing pen, and three inches long, introduced, the richer class wearing them of silver; and in their ears, half moons of the same metal. The men are diligent in hunting, fishing, gathering honey and wild fruits, and in the manufacture of arms and canoes, which they call noatek. The women spin, manufacture clothes, and cintas, or girdles of cotton; and make cords, mats, &c. Both sexes occupy themselves equally in culinary affairs.

They breed all the species of domestic European birds and quadrupeds introduced into the country, and some peculiar to this continent, with great attention and care, in consequence of which the whole are particularly tame.

Agriculture is held in contempt by them; and meat is their only aliment, which renders their stock of animals not over abundant, with the exception of horses, which they never eat. They change the colour of a green parrot into yellow, by stripping off the plumage, and applying the dye of the urucu, to its unfeathered skin.

From their custom of incessant riding on horseback, their legs are crooked. They do not use the saddle or stirrups, nor any substitute for them, and their bridles consist of cords. They break their horses in water, in order that the rider may not be dismounted, or that his fall may be less sensibly felt.

Their war-horses are not used for any other purpose, nor do they ever sell them. The women are mounted on horseback between bundles of dried grass upon a cloth which serves at the same time for a housing.

The Guaycurus are dreaded and respected by the surrounding nations, in consequence of the advantage they have in cavalry in their cruel wars, and the arms which they use, consisting of a club, or staff, of four to five spans in length, and an inch in diameter; a lance, somewhat thicker, and twelve feet long; a trassado, or large knife, and the bow and arrow. They are equipped with all those arms, when they proceed upon their war-horses, in the following manner. They encircle themselves with a cord, between which and the body, the club is introduced on the right side, the trassado on the left; with the left hand they govern the horse, and with the right wield the lance, which they do not[210] use when they carry the bow and arrow. They also use the laço in their hunting excursions.

A year does not elapse without their undertaking campaigns against, and making prisoners of the Guatos, Cayapos, Bororos, Xiquitos, Chamococos, (the two last are of the province of St. Cruz de la Sierra,) Guaxis, who dwell about the heads of the Aranhahy, Coroas, Caiavabas, Guannas, and other tribes. The Guannas are the most numerous, and amongst them alone is remarked the cultivation of some hortulans and cotton trees.

They content themselves with one wife; but the law is free to both parties to effect a separation, and contract a new alliance, when one is disgusted with the other; such separations, however, are very rare. The ceremony of marriage consists in a plentiful banquet, accompanied with a rude dance.

They have a general cemetery, which is a large open structure covered with mats, where each family has a part staked off for its use. Above the sepulchres of the men are deposited their bows, arrows, and other arms. Those of distinguished warriors are decked with ornaments. Rich young females are decorated as if for the bridal day. They have no religion; and, in place of doctors or surgeons, there are certain persons denominated Unigenitos, who are pretended diviners and superstitious imposters, absolutely destitute of that knowledge of medicine or cure of diseases, which belongs to other savages less distinguished. They cure their patients by smoking or sucking the part affected, and expectorating into a grave; they do not prescribe any beverages.

They believe in a creator of all, but to whom they pay no kind of homage, nor have recourse upon any urgent occasions; and also an inferior spirit, endowed with the knowledge of futurity, whom they denominate Nanigogigo. They admit the immortality of the soul; but it would appear, they have no idea of future recompenses being proportioned to the conduct of life; they imagine that the souls of the captains and unigenitos are in a state of enjoyment after death, and that those of the people wander about the cemetery.

The unigenitos acquire most credit by their pretended familiarity with the Nanigogigo, for which the people consider them privileged. The macauhan is a bird which produces much auguration amongst the Guaycurus, when its notes are unintelligible to them; upon such occasions the subsequent night is a season of inconvenience and labour to the unigenitos, who occupy themselves alternately in lamentable singings, or in imitating the notes of various birds, shaking at the same time a calabash with little stones in it, and in calling upon the Nanigogigo to interpret the mysterious song of the bird. They practise the[211] same artifice when they pretend to know whether an invalid will die or recover, and if good or ill success will attend an ensuing war.

It is considered a beauty amongst these people to have no hair upon the eyebrows, being particularly careful to extract it on its appearing.

Their language abounds with words and phrases of soft and easy pronunciation. The women explain themselves at times differently to the men; for instance, in the expression of “Farewell, I am going,” the latter say “sara gigo oipilo,”—the women, “sara gigo ioy.”

There is nothing more remarkable amongst the Guaycurus than the inhuman practice of the mothers in destroying the embryo on discovering their pregnancy, until they arrive at the age of thirty. The reason of this custom is to avoid the inconveniences annexed to the birth and rearing of their offspring.

The streets of their villages or towns are straight and wide, the houses are covered with mats of bulrushes, disposed horizontally in dry weather, and slopingly in wet weather. Many have two and three mats, one above the other, with more or less interval, as much for the exclusion of the rain as for the diminution of the heat. They sleep on the ground upon hides, and cover themselves with the cloths that the women spread over the two bundles of grass between which they ride on horseback.

None of their dwelling places are permanent. They are always near some river or lake, and continue whilst there are game, fish, fruits, and pasturage for the cattle. On experiencing any want, in a moment the town disappears, and the plains, previously covered with thousands of animals, are deserted. The marches of these caravans are grand and interesting. On arriving at their destined place, another town rises almost in a moment, and the surrounding campos, where scarcely a few deer pastured, are on a sudden covered with numerous horses, oxen, and flocks of sheep.

They manufacture an inebriating drink with honey and water, called chicha; and to the rum of the Portuguese they give the name of nodak.

Some express themselves tolerably in the Portuguese language, and have made transitions to the towns or establishments of the province, since they received the protection and subjected themselves to the Faithful Crown, in virtue of which, the following patent, previously alluded to, was granted to them.

“Joam d’Albuquerque de Mello Pereyra e Caceres, of his Majesty’s council, chevalier of the order of St. John of Malta, governor and captain-general of the capitanias of Matto Grosso and Cuiaba, &c. maketh known to all those to whom this my letter patent may come, that the nation of Indian Guaycurus,[212] or Cavalleiros, having solemnly contracted perpetual peace and friendship with the Portuguese, for a term judicially done, in which the two chiefs, Joam Queyma de Albuquerque and Paulo Joaquim Joze Ferreyra, in the name of their nation, subject themselves and promise a strict obedience to the laws of his Majesty, in order to be from this day hence forward recognised as vassals of the same sovereign; I command and order all magistrates of justice and war, commandants, and all persons of the dominions of his Faithful Majesty, to recognise, treat with, and aid them, with all the demonstrations of friends. And, for the confirmation of the above, I have ordered the present Letter Patent to be passed to them, with my signature, and sealed with the signet of my arms, in this capital of Villa Bella, on the 30th July, 1791.”

The following words will partly show the difference between the Guaycuru language and the general lingua.

The territory through which the Igatimy, Escopil, and Miammaya flow is inhabited by the Cahans, (people of the wood,) so denominated from their always living within the precincts of woods, in consequence of their dread of the[213] Guaycurus, who alone proceed along the plains and open country, to facilitate the march of their horses.

The Cabans live in aldeias: not more than thirty years ago they had fifteen of those villages. They paint themselves with the dye of the urucu, perforate the under lip, and insert a cylinder of resin, transparent as crystal, secured by a small wooden pin at the upper extremity. The bow and arrow are their arms, made with instruments of flint and the sharpened teeth of the boar. They cultivate the cotton tree, the wool of which they spin and weave by a method peculiar to themselves. Their vesture consists of a sort of ponche, in the form of a sack, made of a piece of cotton cloth of good width, doubled and sewed in part at the corners, with an opening to introduce the head and neck through, also two apertures for the arms, and terminating in two aprons, with a cord round the waist. In the morning they sing hymns to the Creator, accompanied with extravagant movements; one of them, with the hands clasped and the body bent, making a circular movement around the others for a considerable time. Amongst them are men who are, or pretend to be, at the same time, surgeons, doctors, diviners, and priests, and, like the latter, carry in their hands a cross, which custom they have unquestionably derived from the first Jesuitical missionaries who penetrated into the country, and who used a bordāo, or staff, (perhaps also as an instrument of defence,) in the shape of a cross. In their district there are woods of wild orange trees, and prodigious quantities of bees, which do not produce good honey, but the wax is better than that of the northern provinces.

In the middle of the last century, when the plenipotentiaries of Spain and Portugal established a boundary-mark upon the Jauru, there lived in the vicinity of the Fecho dos Morros, a nation of Indians, called Bayas, of which, at the present day, there is no intelligence.

The povoaçoes in this district are the fazenda of Camapuan, with a hermitage, situated in 19° 36′ south latitude, and Miranda, a prezidio, founded in 1797, about five hundred yards from the right margin of the river Aranhahy, near a serra, in a land abounding with game. Upon the track to Camapuan there is a large lake.

With the foundation of Nova Coimbra the Spaniards commenced in this province the towns of Villa Real, near the tropic, St. Carlos, on the margin of the river Appa, and St. Joze, which was demolished by the Portuguese about twenty years ago.

Near the heads of the Aranhahy there yet appears some vestiges of the before-mentioned city of Xerez.

District of Matto Grosso.

This district, which is two hundred and forty miles from north to south, and two hundred and seventy from east to west on the northern part, is bounded on the south by the Spanish possessions, on the east by the Paraguay, on the north by the district of Juruenna, and on the west by the Guapore. It extends between 13° and 16° 20′ of southern latitude. The face of the country is undulated with serras of no great elevation, which, however, attract the sight at a great distance, with plains more or less extensive, woods, and intermixtures of charnecas, (barren tracts,) and is watered by a great number of rivers, tributary to the two largest of South America.

The most considerable mountains are on the northern part, and are branches of the serra of Paricis.

Mineralogy.—Gold, diamonds, crystals, granite, minerals of iron, potters’ earth, calcareous stone.

Phytology.—The opuncia is common in various situations; in others the ipecacuanha; indigo grows spontaneously in humid lands; jalap is well known; also the trees of cupahiba, almecega, or gum-mastich, manna, and dragons’ blood. There is a diversity of excellent timber for building, and abundance of oranges, goyabas, aracas, mangabas, pine-apples, water-melons, and bananas, generally of good quality. The objects of cultivation are Indian corn, mandioca, rice, legumes, tobacco, cotton, and the sugar cane, as far as it is required for the consumption of the population.

European merchandise and some Asiatic productions arrive here at an exorbitant price, and are only procured in exchange for gold.

Zoology.—All the species of wild quadrupeds which are encountered in the maritime provinces are here common; of domestic animals cattle only are numerous; sheep are rare; and, hitherto, there are no breeders of mules. Here are common the emu ostrich, sereima, mutun, jacu, tucano, parrot, partridge, heron, guiraponga, and jaburu.

Industry is very limited; and the weaving of coarse cottons, for labourers, and curing of hides, which exceed the demand, are its principal objects up to this period.

Rivers.—The Guapore originates nearly one hundred miles to the north-east of Villa Bella, and, after eighty miles of southern course, and nearly the same[215] distance of western, curves towards the north-west, and afterwards to the west-north-west. Two miles above the said town it receives by the left the Alegre, which coming from the east, and rising in the serra of Aguapehy, is joined on the left by the Barbados, ten miles from its mouth. Ten miles below the capital the Guapore is united on the right by the river Sarere, which has its source thirty miles to the west of it; and fifty miles lower, on the same side, by the Galera, which forms itself to the north-west of the Sarere. Twenty-four miles further the important river Verde is incorporated with it; and upwards of one hundred miles in advance, the river Paragau; after two hundred more, the Baurus or Baure; and twelve or fifteen further, the Tunama; all four by the left margin, after having watered a great portion of the province of the Moghos, or Moxos. Upwards of fifty miles below the mouth of the last river, it is joined also on the left side by the voluminous river Ubay, or Ubahy, which the Spaniards formerly denominated the Chiquitos, as it traversed the lands of the Indians so called, and subsequently the Magdalena, named St. Miguel, after they had founded in its vicinity the parishes of those names. To the river Guapore the people of Matto Grosso give the name of Mamore, as far as its junction with the large one of that name, which they call Madeira and the Spaniards Mamore. This confluence is one hundred and ten miles lower down, and one hundred and fifty by water.

The Spaniards commonly give to the Guapore the name of Itenez, which they continue to it till its confluence with the real Mamore, where both lose their names, and form the majestic Madeira, which flows northward till it incorporates with the mighty Amazons. The margins of the Guapore, or Itenez, are principally swampy, and, with the rivers which run into it, uncongenial to European constitutions. The rivers which join it by the right margin, the largest not exceeding one hundred miles in course, issue from the western side of a continuation of the serra of Paricis, which prolongs itself with the same river. The Cabixy, Piolho, Corumbyara, Mequen, St. Simam, and Cautario, follow the aforesaid Galera.

There are five falls in the Guapore, from the mouth of the Ubahy to the confluence where its name is lost. Guajuru-mirim, Guajuru-grande, Bannaneira, Paugrande, and Lages, descending, are the names by which they are distinguished.

The Jauru, which forms itself in the campos of the Paricis, thirty miles east of the Guapore, after flowing a long way southward, gathers, by the right bank, the Bahia and the Aguapehy, inclines to the east-south-east, and unites itself with the Paraguay, in the latitude of 16° 24′. It is navigable for a great distance,[216] and runs principally through a flat country covered with woods. At a short distance from its margin, there is a nitrous lake, which furnishes a great quantity of salt.

At the confluence of the Jauru, which is one hundred and seventy miles south-east of Villa Bella, a magnificent stone of European marble was erected in 1754, as a boundary mark between the Spaniards and Portuguese; the arms of each power being turned towards their respective possessions. This pillar is regarded by the Indians with admiration. The following is the inscription upon it.

Sub Joanne Quinto Lusitanorum
Rege Fidelissimo
Sub Ferdinando Sexto Hispaniæ
Rege Catholico
Justitia et Pax osculatæ sunt
Ex Pactis Finium Regundorum
Conventis. Madriti Idib. Januar.
M.DCC.L.

The river Sepetiva, or Sipotuba, which rises fifty miles to the north-east of the Jauru, runs far along the serra of Tapirapuan, and unites itself with the Paraguay, after having gathered by the right the small rivers Juva and Jaraubahiba.

The river Cabacal, much inferior to the preceding, falls into the Paraguay, a few leagues below the Sipotuba.

The Preto, which is the first considerable river that swells the waters of the Paraguay, is formed by the St. Anna, and St. Francisco Xavier, which emanate from the eastern brows of the Tapirapuan Serra, and join their copious streams at the bottom of a mount, each presenting here the interesting spectacle of a large cataract. These barriers prevent the advance of various species of fish, large shoals of which are observed in the water at their base.

The Barbados, which is extensive, issues also from the serra Tapirapuan, and enters the Paraguay, a considerable way below the Preto.

The Pary, which took the name of a nation now extinct, originates in the serra of Tapirapuan, and falls into the Paraguay, between the Barbados and Sipotuba.

Villa Bella, the capital of this rich and extended province, is already in a[217] state of mediocrity, abounding with meat and fish, and is situated in a champaign country, near the margin of the Guapore. It is ornamented with a parochial church, Santissima Trinidade, a hermitage of Nossa Senhora of Carmo, another of St. Antonio, and a permutation, or smelting house. It is the residence of the governor, and this vast and very partially cultivated province is now under the jurisdiction of Senhor Majesse. It is also the residence of the ouvidor, who is likewise crown judge. The senate is presided by a Juiz de Fora, who is also procurator of the crown, inspector of the smelting house, and deputy of the juntas of the administration of the treasury and of justice. All the houses are constructed of earth, and white-washed. It is the only parish of the comarca, and in its wide district are the chapels of St. Anna, of St. Francisco Xavier, of the Lady of Pilar, of St. Vicente Ferreyra, and of Oiro Fino.

Of this comarca, is the arraial Diamantino, advantageously situated at the angle of the confluence of the river of the same name, with the Oiro, ten miles above its entrance into the Paraguay. It has a hermitage of the Lady of Conceiçao, filial of the mother church of Cuiaba, from which it is distant one hundred miles to the north-west. The gold and diamonds in its environs were the cause of its origin a few years ago. Its inhabitants are miners, breeders of cattle, and agriculturists.

About ten miles distant is the serra of Mangabeira, partly occupied by various farmers of Indian corn, mandioca, and legumes.

The northern portion of this comarca is yet possessed by various aboriginal nations, such as the Cabyxys, the Cautaros, (which give their names to two confluents of the Guapore,) the Ababas, the Lambys, and the Urucurunys, with others approximating to the serra Paricis, which is an elevated range, with extensive sandy campos, or plains, upon its widely spreading summit.

District of Cuiaba.

This district, which takes the name of the river that traverses it from north to south, is confined on the north by the district of Arinos, on the west by that of Matto Grosso, on the east by that of Bororonia, from which it is separated by the river St. Lourenço, which also limits it on the south, where it terminates in an angle formed by the confluence of the said river and the Paraguay. It comprises three hundred and fifty miles from north to south, and little less than two hundred and fifty at its utmost width from east to west. It has an agreeable aspect, delightfully varied with spacious plains, superb woods, extensive[218] charnecas, and gently undulating eminences, often rising to the grandeur of mountain scenery. The greater portion is fertilized by numerous rivers. The prevailing thunder showers of the winter season commence in September and terminate in April.

Mineralogy.—The same minerals are met with here which are found in the district of Matto Grosso.

Phytology.—There are a diversity of trees of excellent timber. Amongst other medicinal plants, is one called espigelia, the herva de cobra, (serpent herb) the jarrinha, and various qualities of the real quina, or Jesuits’ bark.

Amongst other fruits of the wood, the quince is well known, the jabuticaba, the ambuzo, the araticumo, the guabiraba, and the goyaba.

Cotton, sugar, Indian corn, mandioca, rice, and legumes, are objects of agriculture proportioned to the population.

From no part of this district can the superfluity that is produced be exported with advantage, in consequence of its present tedious and intricate communication with the maritime provinces.

Zoology.—Large herds of cattle are bred, as well as horses, some mules, hogs, sheep, and a very few goats, which hitherto are deemed useless.

Rivers.—The most celebrated is the Paraguay, which rises in a plain upon the serra of Pary, otherwise Lage, (a portion of the extensive Paricis,) at the situation of the Sete Lagoas, so called from an assemblage of seven lakes, generally small, a short space intervening between them, and communicating by narrow outlets. A little below the last, this river flows through a swampy country in a northerly direction for a short space, when it winds round by the west and takes a southern course. The first stream which it receives is the Diamantino, (Diamond River,) which comes from a distant source, and brings with it the Corrego Rico, (Rich Channel,) otherwise Rio do Oiro, (Gold River.) The first large river which joins it is the Jauru. Along its eastern margin, and in nearly the whole of this great extent, is a range of elevated lands, which continue twenty-five miles beyond this confluence, and terminate at the point called Escalvada, where both margins begin to be flat, and interspersed with lakes. Seventy miles below the Escalvada point, the western margin begins to be bordered by a serra of the like number of miles in length, but narrow, and broken in various parts to admit of the ingress of the waters of three lakes lying behind it, the outlets of which, thus formed, appear like large rivers, when the Paraguay at its overflowings makes them a part of its expanded channel. The northern portion of this serra is called Insua: the southern,[219] Chaynez; and the central, Doirados. The names of the lakes are Oberaba, Gahiba, and Mandiore. The first on the north is ten miles in diameter, and its outlet contiguous to the extremity of the serra Insua, behind which it communicates with the Gahiba lake, which is a little larger and ten miles distant to the south, with its outlet, the same number of miles below the first, dividing the serra of Insua from that of Doirados.

The Mandiore lake is fifteen miles in extent, and has more than one channel to the Paraguay, the northernmost of which separates the serra of Doirados from that of Chaynez, and is twenty miles south of Gahiba, in front of which the river St. Lourenço discharges its abundant waters, in the latitude of 18° 45´.

The serra of Chaynez, inhabited at times by the Guanan Indians, is followed by that of Albuquerque, which is a square mass of an elevated range from thirty-five to forty miles. On its southern side is situated the prezidio from which its name is derived. In front of this serra is the principal embouchure of the Tocoary in 19° 15´.

Eighteen miles further to the south are the mouths of the Mondego. The Paraguay flows in these parts divided into two channels, formed by a narrow island seventy miles long; the eastern channel is denominated Paraguay Mirim.

Thirty-five miles to the south of the Mondego are two high mounts, one in front of the other, upon the margins of the Paraguay. Upon the southern skirt of the western mount is situated the before-mentioned fort of Nova Coimbra.

Thirty-five miles below Coimbra, on the same margin, is the mouth of the outlet from Bahia Negra, (Black Bay,) which is twenty miles inland, and comprises eighteen in length from north to south, being the receptacle of the lakes, and of the aqueous effusions of the plains lying to the west and south of the Albuquerque mountains. Sixty miles further the Paraguay receives on the eastern bank the Queyma, which is said to be the Terrery of the first certanistas.

Eight miles lower, in the latitude of 21°, upon the western margin, is the morro which the ancient Paulistas called the Mount of Miguel Joze, upon whose skirt is situated Fort Bourbon. Twenty-five miles by water, to the south of the mount of Miguel Joze, in the latitude 21° 20´, a chain of small mountains prolong themselves with the Paraguay, where its waters are contracted into a narrower space, flowing rapidly in two channels, separated by a rocky island of considerable length. In this situation, denominated the Fecho dos Morros, (the Barricado of Rocks,) and which is the limit between the High and Low[220] Paraguay, terminate the laky and swampy margins of this majestic river, which commence, as has been previously noticed, at Escalvada Point, near three hundred and fifty miles to the north. The width of the river within this space, during the inundations, which begin in April and continue till September, is from seventy to one hundred and fifty miles, and forms an internal sea, which the ancient Vincentistas denominated the Sea or Lake Xarays, from a nation so called, now not existing, or, at least, not known by such an appellation. At the time of these awful floods, a great part of the beds of the rivers of St. Lourenço, Tocoary, Mondego, and others on the eastern side, as well as the aforesaid lakes on the western, and the adjacent woods, become portions of this periodical Caspian, where the elevated lands assume the appearance of islands, inhabited by an accumulation of birds and wild animals.

At the said Fecho, both margins of the Paraguay begin to acquire a solid terra firma, particularly the eastern. By this bank are discharged the small Tipoty, the Correntes, the Rio Branco, (which appears to be the said Correntes,) the Appa, (which is thought to be the Pirahy of the ancient Paulistas,) the Guidava, the Ippanne Guassu, the Ippanne Mirim, and the Chichuhi, where the rugged margin called Huguruguita commences, and is prolonged for the space of thirty-five miles to the mouth of the small Suobogo, where begins the bank or coast of Pataque, of short extent, terminating at the embouchure of the Tabixu, which, as well as the preceding, enters the Paraguay on the left.

In the latitude of 25° 22´ is situated the city of Assumption; and eighteen miles to the south of it, the first arm of the large river Pilco Mayo is discovered, which originates in the cordillera of the Andes, in the district of Potoze, whither it affords navigation. Forty miles lower down is the mouth of the second arm, and fifteen further, the most southern arm. The course of the Pilco Mayo is not much less than seven hundred miles.

On the eastern margin, the Piraju, the Cannabe, and the Tibicoary enter the Paraguay.

In the latitude of 26° 50´, the Rio Verde, or Parsa, otherwise Colorado, discharges itself, after a course of more than seven hundred miles from the vicinity of the Andes.

Forty miles further to the south, the grand confluence of the Paranna, little inferior to the Paraguay, augments the wonder which is excited by so vast a mass of water. About one hundred miles lower is the northern branch of the river Salado; and upwards of one hundred and seventy miles further the[221] southern, better known by the name of Xalupoi. On the southern angle of this confluence is situated the city of Santa Fe, in the latitude of 31° 35′. A little further it receives also by the right bank, the Terceiro, or Carcapal, which exceeds three hundred and fifty miles in its course.

The Paraguay, which from the parallel of 20° inclines a little to the south-south-west, here changes its direction to the east-south-east for the space of one hundred and forty miles, gathering by both margins various rivers, none of them considerable, to the latitude of 34°, where it is united on the left by the river Uruguay, its last important tributary.

This river, which the Spaniards generally call Rio da Plata, after it receives the Pilco Mayo, becomes many leagues in width, and contains a great number of islands, which vary greatly in extent, principally of a flat aspect, and denominated the Parannas. The left margin, from the last confluence, runs to the east as far as Cape St. Mary, and this part of it, at least, is universally known as the river Plate, the right margin of which takes a south-east direction, from the same longitude, for more than one hundred miles to the point of Carretas, where its embouchure is upwards of fifty miles in width.

The Paraguay has no more falls after it receives the Sipotuba, and is generally of great depth.

The river Cuiaba has its origin in the same latitude as the Paraguay. The first current which unites itself with it by the western margin is the Cuiaba Mirim, and by the eastern the Casca; these are followed by many others of a smaller class, which render it navigable for more than seventy miles above the capital, although with much labour, in consequence of many falls, which do not extend below Villa Real, where it begins to be wide and rapid in its current, flowing almost generally through a champaign country, which is submerged during the periodical inundations. Its waters are excellent, well stored with fish, and in the latitude of 17° 20′ it falls into the St. Lourenço.

Whilst the floods continue it is customary to navigate over the plains, where the current is less rapid, traversing prodigious plantations of rice, annually reproduced by nature, without any human assistance, or sustaining any damage from the waters, because it grows as the waters increase, always having more than a yard above water, and affording supplies to the passing canoes, into which the ears are bent, and then shook with a pole.

The piranna fish, commonly called tezoira, (scissors,) and sometimes lanceta, (lancet,) and the arraya, are equally terrible here; the first in consequence of its formidable teeth, the other from a sting which it has in the tail.

From the capital downwards, the most notable streams which fall into the Cuiaba, are the Tutez on the right; the large and small Caranda on the left.

Villa Real de Cuiaba, capital of the comarca, considerable, populous, flourishing, and abounding with meat, fish, and fruits, contains a church of Senhor Bom Jesus, three chapels dedicated, two also to the Redeemer, with the titles of Bom Despacho and Passos, and one to Nossa Senhora of Rozario, and is the residence of a prelate, bishop in partibus, also of a Juiz de Fora, and royal professors of philosophy and Latin. It is situated near a small river, one mile distant from the eastern bank of the river from which it derives its name. All the edifices are of taipa, similar to those of St. Paulo, and the streets are mostly paved.

The dealers of Cuiaba proceed to barter their bars of precious metal at Bahia, by the road of Goyaz, or at the metropolis, by the same track, or by Camapuan; but their trade might more conveniently be carried on by the river Tapajos, and others of Gram Para, to its capital. Various ways, in fact, remain to be opened to the transit of the productions of these fertile districts; two to Para,—one by the river Xingu, the other by the Mortes and the Araguaya; the same number to St. Paulo and Rio de Janeiro,—the first by the rivers St. Lourenço, Piquiry, Sucuriu, and Tiete,—the second always by land, traversing the districts of Bororonia and Cayaponia, crossing the Paranna between the confluence of the Parannahiba and the cataract of Urubupunga. The latter, it is credibly affirmed, would be near three hundred miles shorter than the route actually frequented by Villaboa.

At Cuiaba, the orange tree is exceedingly abundant, and fructifies with excellence the whole year. The water-melon, melon, and pine-apple, are here very good. The principal productions are mandioca, Indian com, feijao, some cotton, and the sugar cane, the juice of which is principally distilled into spirit.

Thirty-five miles to the east of Cuiaba is the small arraial and parish of St. Anna, situated on a plain, upon the serra St. Jeronimo. Every way that it is approached the ascent is steep and of considerable length. Its inhabitants rear cattle, cultivate mandioca, Indian corn, legumes, the sugar cane, and some cotton, which is occasionally injured by the cold, here sensibly experienced in the nights of July. The soil has been found well adapted to the growth of wheat, but want of industry precludes its cultivation.

Fifty miles to the south-west of Cuiaba is the small arraial of St. Pedro d’el Rey, formerly Poconna, situated upon the verge of a vast lake, with a hermitage,[223] one league distant from the extensive swamp of Pirannema, which becomes dry in the hot season, and affords pasturage for cattle. The houses are of taipa, or adobe, (a species of large brick dried in the sun,) and are white-washed. The soil in its environs is green. The people who inhabit it, and form a julgado, or village, are miners, are supplied with water from cacimbas, or pits, for want of fountains, cultivate the common necessaries of life, and breed cattle. They also make salt, by the filtering of water through a portion of earth put into bangues, which are made of hides, and subsequently dried by a strong heat.

Villa Maria, situated upon the eastern bank of the Paraguay, twenty-five miles from the confluence of the Jauru, has a church of St. Luiz; and is abundantly supplied with meat and fish. The situation of this town upon the noble Paraguay, and other circumstances, promise it a future augmentation and splendour, which will perhaps not be equalled by any other internal town of South America. Its inhabitants, at present consisting principally of Indians of various nations, cultivate Indian corn, mandioca, legumes, rice, cotton, and breed cattle. There is already one engenho, or sugar-work. The lights universally used are made of the oil of mamona, and of the piquira, a species of fish exceedingly numerous, and caught with great facility. The fish called paraputanga and pacu, are esteemed the best of the Paraguay and of its first confluents.

In front of this town is situated the royal fazenda of Cahyssara, where numerous droves of cattle and horses are bred, and where a great many tigers have been destroyed.

The hermitages of Nossa Senhora of Livramento, upon the road of Matto-Grosso, of Nossa Senhora of Prazeres, near the heads of the Cuiaba, of St. Antonio, below the capital, near the same river, and others, are the places of worship of the people who inhabit those districts. Near to the port of the capital, on the eastern bank of the Cuiaba, is a hermitage of St. Gonçalo d’Amarante.

Near the left margin of the Jatuba, an arm of the St. Lourenço, upon the Goyaz road, is the aldeia of Boavista, so called from its fine situation upon a height.

There still exist various hordes of Indians, (all said to be of the Bororo nation,) dispersed within the limits of this comarca and the preceding one. One is designated Coroados, the other Barbados, (bearded,) so called from feigning mustachios or beards with a certain dye.

Of the Indian nations here found by the conquerors, the only one worthy of remembrance was the Paricis, who were well formed, affable, and much pleased[224] with the Christians. From their alliances with the whites and Africans are descended a great part of the Mamalucos and Curibocas, who constitute the gross of the population. They are usually of good morals, and much respected.

District of Bororonia.

This comarca, which borrows its name from the Bororo Indians, who yet have dominion over the principal part of it, is bounded on the north by the district of Tapiraquia, on the west by that of Cuiaba, on the south by Camapuania, and on the east by the province of Goyaz, from which it is divided by the river Araguaya. It is upwards of four hundred miles in length from north to south, and of proportionate width, although very irregular.

The Bororos, the Guatos, and the Baccahiris are its actual possessors. The Bororos are the most numerous, although greatly diminished in comparison with what they were at the commencement of the conquest; they are divided into various tribes, under different appellations. The Guatos, who possess the southern part, and are friendly to the Portuguese, are extraordinary swimmers, fish with the arrow, and have a great number of canoes, in which they advance to the Portuguese establishments. The bow, arrow, and a large lance are their arms; a wide cinta, or girdle, manufactured from the fibres of the tucum palm, is the common vesture of both sexes. The skin of the ounce generally constitutes their bed, and they are a people exceedingly indolent. Honey and game form a main part of their subsistence. The Baccahiris, who occupy the lands in the vicinity of the river Das Mortes, wage a continued warfare against all kinds of quadrupeds and birds, their principal aliment. Up to the present time this horde has never acted with hostility towards the Christians. They are said to be of a white complexion and docile, from which they are supposed to be a tribe of Paricis.

Rivers and Lakes.—The river St. Lourenço, which originates in the latitude of about 15°, is already considerable when it traverses the road of Goyaz; afterwards, it gathers by the left the Parannahiba, which brings with it the Sucuri, the sources of which are also a great distance to the north of the said road. A little below this confluence, where it becomes large, there is a fall, which is the last, and from hence it continues to the south-west, through a flat country, augmenting greatly until its incorporation by two mouths with the Paraguay, which is not superior to it. The eastern embouchure is distinguished by the name of Rio Chaynez.

Forty miles above the mouth of the Cuiaba the St. Lourenço is joined by the Piquiri, which is larger, has its heads near the boundary of Cayaponia, not far from those of the Sucuriu, and receives on the right the Piaughuhi, which originates in the same parts; on the left, the Itaquira, which has its source in the proximity of that of the Jauri-Guassu, a branch of the Tocoary, already mentioned.

A few years only have elapsed since an explorer navigated up the Piquiri seven days, and did not encounter a cataract. Ancient certanistas have asserted that the navigation from Porto Feliz to Cuiaba may be accomplished by the Sucuriu and Piquiri. It is, however, certain that the voyage from the mouth of the Tiete to the Cuiaba is more than one-third shorter than by that of Camapuan.

The Rio das Mortes, (River of the Dead,) which took this name in consequence of many people of the first bandeira dying upon its margins from fevers, has its numerous heads to the south of the Cuiaba road. It runs to the north-east and discharges its considerable volume into the western arm of the Araguaya, where it forms the island of St. Anna. It affords extensive navigation into the interior of the province. The Roncador and the great and small Sangradores are the most remote origins of this river. The first is the most western, and flows a short distance from an arm of the aforesaid Sucuriu. Between the two Sangradores there is a spacious lake, called Logoa Grande.

The Rio do Peixe, (River of Fish,) formed by the Raizama and Tacoaral, which also cross the Cuiaba road, there insignificant, flows northwards, and ultimately enters the Rio das Mortes.

Twenty-five miles from the Araguaya, near a small stream and the said road, is situated the aldeia of Insua, with a register.

There existed upon the left margin of the Rio das Mortes, an aldeia, named Amaro Leite after its founder, which disappeared when the road was carried in a more direct line further to the south.

District of Juruenna.

This comarca is bounded on the north by Mundrucania, on the west by the rivers Guapore and Madeira, on the south by the comarca of Matto Grosso, and on the east by the river which affords its name, comprising nearly four hundred miles from north to south, and much more from east to west. Between the Pederneiras and Araras falls, in the latitude of 9° 45′, where the river Madeira curves to the west, there is a point on its eastern margin, in front of[226] the mouth of the river Abuna, from which it takes the name, and is the most western land of the Brazil.

This comarca is very little known by the Portuguese, and is in the power of various barbarous nations. The Pammas, who possess a considerable portion upon the Madeira, are of a white complexion. The Tamares are masters of the adjacencies of the river Juyna, the first notable branch of those which enlarge the Juruenna by the western bank. The Paccahas live to the north of the latter. The Sarummas farther to the north, along the margins of the said Juruenna. And, lower down, the Uhaihas.

The Juruenna, which is said to take the name of a nation, has its origin a little to the north of the Jauru. Its course is directed to the north, and it incorporates by two mouths with the Arinos, between the parallel of 9° and 10°. Its large volume of water, more considerable than the river which receives it, shows that it is joined by numerous other streams in its course. Hitherto, it has not been navigated by Christians; those who have examined it at the mouths state, that its waters are particularly clear, and that various islands are situated in that portion of its bed within view. It is discharged between two serrotes, or hills, of trifling elevation. The island separating its two mouths is of medium size and moderate altitude.

The Jamari, and the Giparanna, are the largest rivers flowing from this comarca into the Madeira. The first rises on the northern skirts of the serra Paricis, in the territory of the Guaritere Indians, where it is called the Candeas, waters the lands of the Camarares, who afford their name to one of its principal arms, and discharges fifty miles below the fall of St. Antonio. It is said to have a cataract two days’ voyage above its mouth, and to flow through auriferous lands.

The Giparanna, also called Machado, has its source to the east of the Jamari, also in the skirt of a branch of the same serra, and soon begins to be enlarged by small streams, that irrigate the territories of savage tribes, and falls into the Madeira, nearly thirty miles below the preceding. In its vicinity there is sarsaparilla, and the cocoa tree, from which chocolate is made. Eight miles below the mouth of the Jamari is an outlet of the lake Tucunare, little removed from the margin of the Madeira. The river Soteiro and the Pacanova descend from the southern side of the said serra Paricis, and fall into the Guapore, the Soteiro forty miles below the Ubahi, and the Pacanova seventy miles further.

Along the banks of the Madeira and the Itenez, the only parts of this[227] comarca that are well known, abundance of all kinds of game are met with. Amongst other notable trees that are seen in the large woods here adjacent to those rivers, is a species of palm, called ubussu, the flower of which supplies an elastic fibrous peel, so interwoven, that it appears like the production of the loom, and serves as a cap to the Indian. The curagiru affords a fine scarlet dye. The cedar is common and very thick, but, like a great many other trees of excellent timber, of no use, from the almost total want of population capable of appreciating their value.

In this comarca is situated the fort of Principe da Beira, erected in the year 1776, upon the right margin of the Guapore, one league below the mouth of the Tunama, in 12° 20′ south latitude, and one mile above the situation where the first governor of the province established the fort of Conceiçao. The land upon which it stands is never inundated by the river, which rises here at the period of the floods near thirty feet, and covers with lakes a great portion of the frontier lands, thus subjecting the garrison to fevers. Three hundred and fifty miles is computed from this fort to the capital; and by the river, upwards of six hundred, so considerable are its windings.

Near this fort there is a populous aldeia of Christian Indians; and at a short distance higher up another, called Leonil, similarly inhabited. The whole cultivate a diversity of the necessaries of life. They also hunt and fish.

Five miles below the confluence of the Guapore with the Mamore, upon the margin of the river Madeira, near the fall of Ribeiram, is the new parish of St. Joze. The inhabitants are composed of various nations, with some whites, and are abundantly supplied with fish, game, and the necessaries of life peculiar to the country.

District of Arinos.

This comarca, which receives its name from the river that waters it and divides it into two unequal portions, is confined on the north by Tapajonia, on the west by Juruenna, on the south by Cuiaba, and on the east by Tappiraquia. Its length is equal to that of the preceding district, and its width, from east to west, is nearly three hundred miles. A portion of the most southern part of it is commonly called Varges, or Vargeria, where, many years ago, a colony of adventurers settled, but soon afterwards abandoned it, in consequence of the annoyance they experienced from the Indians, and the want of success attending their partial operations in mining.

It is a district very little known, although ascertained to be auriferous.[228] Those who have navigated by the Arinos and Tapajos, state, that it is washed by numerous rivers, almost the whole of which contribute their waters to the enlargement of the two preceding. Its aspect is varied by mountains, and, as far as the eye of the explorer has extended, contains luxuriant and noble woods.

Amongst the nations under whose dominion it hitherto has remained, the Baccuris are well known, who possess the first territory irrigated by the Arinos; also the Manbares, who are wanderers in the land traversed by the river Taburuhina, the first remarkable confluent of the Juruenna on the eastern bank. The Appiacas occupy the centre of the comarca, and have an aldeia with high houses upon the right border of the river Arinos. They are a ferocious people, live by hunting and fishing, and with axes of stone they prepare the timber for the construction of their houses and their canoes. Northward of the last dwell the Cabahibas, who speak the same idiom. It is to be hoped that these tribes, when they begin to experience the advantage of iron instruments and clothing, which they can derive alone from the navigators of this river, will become more civilized, and contribute to the cultivation of those neglected districts.

The river Arinos, which took the name of a nation at present unknown, rises near the origins of the Paraguay, and falls into the sublime Amazon under the name of the Tapajos. In 1805, Joam Vieges accomplished on this river almost the same voyage as its first discoverer, Captain Joam de Souza e Azevedo; and in 1812, Antonio Thomé de Franca also descended by it, and in the following year proceeded up with his fleet of canoes, laden in the city of Para, being the first individual who performed this voyage, unquestionably less laborious and much shorter than that by the river Madeira.

The first considerable river united with the Arinos by the right border is the Rio Preto, which rises between the Paraguay and the Cuiaba, and, by the left, the Sumidor, which originates a little to the north of the Sipotuba. This name is given to it in consequence of disappearing, (after a course of many leagues,) beneath a rock, from whence it issues at no great distance below. A canoe confided to the current at the upper side soon appears at the other. Captain Joam de Souza descended by the Sumidor, and others by the Rio Preto embarking upon it at a situation about ten miles distant from the arraial of Diamantino.

It appears singular that none of these navigators descended by the Arinos from its upper part, which, when it receives the Rio Petro, is larger than that[229] river. All the canoes with which those rivers have been navigated were constructed of the trunks of trees produced upon their margins, demonstrating sufficiently the substantial nature of the soil, and its adaptation to all the purposes of agriculture.

In twenty-eight hours of navigation, (performed in the course of four days,) from the bar of Rio Preto to that of the Sumidor, Viegas met with nineteen rivers, yet nameless, and almost the whole entered the Arinos by the right. The largest is a few leagues above the mouth of the Sumidor, which latter is little inferior to the Arinos.

After an extensive course, the Arinos loses the name, upon incorporating with the Juruenna, the united waters forming the Tapajos, properly Tapayo, from a nation of this name, who inhabited its margins further to the northward. The first considerable river united with it by the right is the Azevedo, so denominated after its discoverer. At a great distance lower down is the embouchure of another river on the right, thirty fathoms in width. A little further two morros approximate, and contract its bed, and an elevated island divides it into two channels, through which its waters flow with equal rapidity.

From hence about three hours’ voyage is a cascade of considerable altitude, the murmuring noise and evaporation arising from which announce another of the wonders of nature long before it becomes visible.

Beyond this interesting object is discovered the mouth of another river, apparently at least equal to the Tapajos, which is here very wide; but is however almost immediately reduced by two lateral morros to a little more than one hundred fathoms of width, and after a short space again presents a more than ordinary expansion, and receives also by the right margin another river of thirty fathoms in width. It is about three hours’ navigation from the mouth of one river to the other.

Upon the margin of the Rio Preto, at the place where the canoes commence their voyage, a povoaçoe is now establishing for the accommodation of the navigators of the Tapajos.

District of Tappiraquia.

This comarca derives its name from one of its tribes of Indians, and is limited on the north by Xingutania, on the west by the river Xingu, which separates it from the preceding district, on the south by Bororonia, and on the east by the river Araguaya, which divides it from Nova Beira. It comprises[230] the same length as the Arinos from north to south, and upwards of two hundred miles from east to west.

With the exception of the eastern boundary, along the Araguaya, it is unknown, for want of the relations of those who penetrated into it at an earlier period. Amongst other nations who have this district under their dominion, are the Guapindaias; the Tappiraques, who afford it the name; the Ximbiuas, and the Aracis.

The southern part contains various rivers. The most remarkable are the Boys, Barahu, Irahiras, and Xanacy, all arms of the great river Xingu, but it is not known which is its principal head.

Those that originate more to the east form the river St. Joao, which enters the Araguaya above fifty miles north of the river Mortes. To the south of its embouchure there is a large lake which communicates with it, as well as with the river that receives it, during the periodical floods.

Seventy miles below the river St. Joao, the Vertentes falls also into the Araguaya, after an extensive course. A little to the north of the re-union of the two arms of the Araguaya, which form the large island of St. Anna, is the mouth of the river Ponta, not very considerable; and a short distance lower down that of the Tappiraques, so called from its originating in the territory of the Indians of the same name.

To the north of the river Tappiraques, upon the margin of the Araguaya, in the space of eighty miles, were founded the three aldeias of Lappa, Almeida, and Semancelhe, for the habitation of various families of the Ximbiua tribe, reduced to peace in the year 1775, who soon afterwards adopted their former rude mode of living. They are a people passionately fond of hunting and fishing, the produce of which constitute their principal subsistence. The first certanistas who penetrated into these districts, killing some partridges, found in their crops granites with gold, a proof of the existence of that precious metal here, and which may stimulate future exertions in the desirable object of introducing cultivation and Christianity into extensive territories yet uncolonized.

The great fertility of these lands, and the facility with which their productions might be transported by their noble rivers, particularly towards Gram Para, also concur in raising the expectation that some effectual measures will be adopted to civilize the savage wanderers, and convert the widely extending woods to the purposes of such culture as the soil, now overshadowed with constant gloom, may be found to be best adapted.

This province had its origin in the year 1749, being until that time a comarca or ouvidoria of St. Paulo, so created in 1737, and colonized by adventuring miners.

The first intelligence of this territory possessing gold was given by Manuel Correa, a native of the town of St. Paulo de Piratininga, who found ten oitavas of this metal, which he gave as a diadem to crown the sacred image of the Lady of Penha, at the town of Sorocaba. Though the date of this circumstance is not known, it appears, by a journal found at Correa’s death, that he collected the said gold with a pewter plate in the river Aracis.

Bartholomew Bueno, who succeeded Correa in the same undertaking about the year 1670, was accompanied by his son of the same name, then only twelve years old. They dwelt some time in the vicinity of the situation where the capital of this province now stands, and observed that the women of the Goya tribe, masters of the district, ornamented themselves with gold.

The discovery of the mines of Cuiaba, in 1719, directed the attention of B. Bueno, the son, (the father being then dead,) to the territory of the Goyaz; and imparting his knowledge of the gold discovered by his father in the possession of this tribe, to Rodrigo Cezar de Menezes, that governor despatched him, with a numerous party, and one hundred muskets, in the year 1722, in order that he might go in search of and establish himself in the country.

Bueno, having lost all recollection of such signals as might have pointed out the way to the Goya district, proceeded too far to the south, and having arrived at the banks of a river, they remained there for some days, and gave it the name of Rio dos Piloes: they found there a considerable quantity of gold, which produced some dissension amongst the party, many wishing to remain in order to take advantage of it. Bueno, however, was determined upon the accomplishment of his object; and thinking that the rich treasure he was in pursuit of lay still further to the west, he proceeded in that direction for some days, when they reached a river, which they denominated the river of Perdition, in consequence of then considering themselves entirely out of the route to Goyaz. Continuing without embarrassment the same march, they encountered a larger river, and beyond this a third, which they called the Rio das Areas, in consequence of the sandy nature of its bed. Journeying onwards to the west, they found another, which received the appellation of Rio Rico, (Rich River,) from the gold which they discovered in it.

Having lost all hopes of finding the wished-for district in this direction, Bueno retraced his steps, and deviating in the way, after a prolonged and tedious journey, arrived at the river Parannan, where he considered himself still further from his object, in consequence of perceiving certain signs of cattle, which he afterwards found had strayed from the margins of the river St. Francisco in search of better pasturage.

After three years of ineffectual perseverance and disappointed labour, in quest of the enchanting land, this certanista arrived at St. Paulo with a part of his bandeira; the remainder having died from diseases and disasters inseparable from such an undertaking.

The tender age of Bueno when he accompanied his father to the district in question, and fifty years of interval, exculpated him from all blame in the unfortunate result of this enterprise; and, as he was a man of known probity, the same governor despatched him again, with every necessary succour, in the confident expectation of a more successful issue. Bueno proceeded for three months through unknown districts, without any track or road, encountering various torrents, and other obstacles of a worse nature, replete with difficulties and delay: at last he arrived at a place about eight miles distant from the present situation of the capital, where he perceived some indications of Portuguese having been there at some former period, which induced him to halt upon the spot with his companions. Two old Indians were caught, who proved to be of the Goya nation; and on being interrogated if they knew the place where[233] some white men had been established many years ago; they replied, that it was not far distant. The caravan now moved forward again, accompanied by the two Indians, who led the way to a situation, at the present time occupied by the arraial of Ferreiro, and which Bueno immediately recognised to be the much desired spot where he had been with his father. He immediately proceeded to make the requisite arrangements for forming an establishment, and to carry into execution the objects of this enterprise.

The fortunate Bueno now returned to his country, with the intelligence of having discovered the long sought-for district, which was traversed by five streams, all having abundance of gold; a pretty considerable portion of which he presented at the same time, in confirmation of those glad tidings. He soon received the commission of Captain Mor Regente, and proceeded to rejoin his colony in the year 1726.

Having arrived at the new arraial, his first care was to adopt the best mode of living in harmony with the Goyaz, the only tribe in the district, and from whom the name of this province was derived. The Indians were, however, suspicious of their new visitors, and posted themselves with their arms in the situation where the arraial of Barra is now seen; but Bueno adopting the artifice of seizing some women, the Goyaz desisted, at the same time offering to point out those places which afforded the largest quantity of gold, and which were at and near the situation now called Ponte do Meio, and where a piece was soon found, which, when purified, produced half a pound of gold. The whole colony laboured in contentment, and without envying the miners of Cuiaba.

The fortunate circumstances of their situation soon becoming known, and the dangers to which persons were exposed who directed their course to Cuiaba, attracted so great a number of miners to Goyaz in the course of two years, that the necessaries which daily arrived with the numerous caravans and troops from St. Paulo, (to which city alone there was any track or road,) were inadequate to their subsistence. Every thing sold at an exorbitant price; of gold there was enough, but it could not supply sustenance. An alqueire of Indian corn cost six or seven oitavas of gold; and the same measure of the flour of mandioca ten oitavas. A milch cow, which appeared there, was bought for two pounds weight of the same metal, and a hog for twenty-eight. Two oitavas of gold were demanded for a pound of sugar; and every article of subsistence was procured only by payment in the same proportion. The dealers who conveyed the necessaries of life by a tedious journey were enriched; but the mines were still[234] more lucrative at this period. Many were at length induced to devote a portion of their time to the cultivation of the necessaries of life, that the gold which they collected might not be consumed in payment for them.

This province, in the centre of Brazil, and ranking amongst the largest in the state, is confined on the north by the provinces of Para and Maranham; on the west by Cuiaba, from which it is separated by the river Araguaya; on the south by Camapuania and the province of St. Paulo; and on the east by the provinces of Minas Geraes, and Pernambuco, which are divided from it by a cordillera, stretching north and south, stony and barren, and which alone affords passage at the largest openings, denominated boqueiroes; each portion taking its particular name, and the northern being the most elevated. The length of this province is about seven hundred miles, computing from the confluence of the Araguaya with the Tucantines to that of the Pardo with the Parannan, and its width proportionable. It lies between 6° and 18° of south latitude; the rains only prevail during the thunder peculiar to these climates, which commences in October and terminates in April.

The aspect of this province is almost universally uneven, although in few parts mountainous, having many portions called catingas, not favourable to cultivation.

The soil is only fertile where there are woods, with which it does not abound, if we except the districts of the capital, Meia Ponte, Pilar, and St. Luzia, by the margins of the Corumba. Admiration is excited by the wood called Matto Grosso, (Large Wood,) upwards of thirty miles in width, upon the road of Meia Ponte to the capital, about the centre of that interval, and its length extending from the river Almas to the centre of Cayaponia.

Mineralogy.—Gold, diamonds, crystals, granite, calcareous stone, minerals of iron, mineral salt, a diversity of argils, &c. The largest fifth on gold here was of one hundred and sixty-nine thousand and eighty oitavas, in 1753, and the smallest of eleven thousand eight hundred and ninety-three, in 1807. This diminution arises from not working into the mountains, which, no doubt, abound with this metal.

Zoology.—This province abounds in cattle. Goats are few in number, and almost of no utility. Sheep are somewhat more numerous; little advantage is, however, derived from their wool, which might be easily rendered subservient to some branches of industry. Very few more hogs are bred than what are for the consumption of the country. Horses are also bred; those of Parannan are esteemed the best. Deer are every where numerous, and their[235] skins furnish a branch of commerce. The ounce, anta, the wild hog, wolf, monkey, hare, tamandua, cotia, quati, paca, with many other species of quadrupeds, common in the adjacent provinces, are here well known and much pursued by the hunter. Some are esteemed for the flesh, some for the skin, and others for both. Partridges and the emu ostrich are met with upon the plains. The mutun bird inhabits the wood, and by its song invites the fatal attacks of the hunter. The tucano, the torquaze pigeon, the aracuan, the araponga, and the jacu, are numerous. A great part of those creatures are devoured in a raw state by the Indians, without salt or any kind of seasoning.

Phytology.—There are a variety of medicinal plants, divers sorts of palm trees; the large jatuba affords gum copal. The Brazil wood, and similar valuable timber, is here of no utility, in consequence of the great distance of any maritime town. The tobacco plant is cultivated with great advantage where the soil is substantial. From the fruit of the mamona tree is extracted oil for lights. The cotton tree prospers in many parts, and its wool constitutes a branch of commerce, which is beginning to be advantageous to the population. The sugar cane is cultivated in many districts, and employs various engenhos; the greater part of its juice is converted into spirit, and some sugar, called rapaduras. The flour of mandioca, Indian corn, and legumes, are the most abundant productions of agriculture. The fruit of the araca, the pine-apple, the mangaba, the goyaba, the banana, jabuticaba, the ambuo, are common, and of various qualities. Oranges and water-melons are excellent. Quinces are small and insipid; but a large quantity of doce, or preserves, is here made of them. The vine trees grow to a remarkable size in some districts, and produce fruit abundantly twice a year. Wine is made of the grapes in the dry season, which is yet very indifferent; such as are produced in the winter season serve for vinegar, and afford a good substitute for that of Europe.

The cochineal plant is very common, but, hitherto, not appropriated to the production of that insect. Many parts are well adapted to the produce of indigo, the culture of which receives here no attention. The productions of those two vegetables, from their great value, are the only ones which the agriculturist of these districts could convey to the maritime ports with any considerable profit and security. The trees of incense, senna, and manna, are not unknown. Campeche and a species of rhubarb are also met with.

Gold and cattle are the only objects of exportation, which introduce into the country what little may be found of luxury, and the necessaries of life required from without. If a little cotton wool, or coarse cotton cloth, with[236] some hides, are conveyed to the eastern ports, it is only that the troops of animals may not proceed unladen on their journeys to bring back the necessary dry goods, salt, iron, &c.; these articles would not otherwise pay one-half of the expense of conveyance. At present, the breeders of cattle and senhors d’engenhos are the only individuals who live constantly independent; the same may be said of miners and traders, when they are favoured by fortune in their operations. None, however, experience want; and agriculture is proportioned to the population. The present king has been solicitous to increase both in this fine and fertile province; and, when Prince Regent, he afforded his countenance and support, in September, 1812, to a plan for establishing a commercial company between this province and Para, the funds of which were not to be less than one hundred thousand crusades. The establishment of warehouses and prezidios, in situations best adapted to promote the navigation of the Maranham, and Tucantines, from Arroios to Porto Real, where almost all the obstacles terminate which impede the navigation upwards, cannot fail with the requisite attention and wisdom to effect this desirable project. All members who entered this society with ten thousand crusades, besides other favours, were to obtain what is termed a sesmaria of land, extending five miles in front and five miles in depth, upon the margin of the Maranham, the Tucantines, and the Araguaya; and those who established themselves either upon the margins or in the certams of those rivers, were to be exempt from the payment of tenths upon their productions, and to be free from the duties of entrance upon the articles of commerce navigated by the said rivers.

Rivers.—The Tucantines, the Araguaya, the Corumba, the Parannan, and the Parannahiba, are the principal rivers, and receive all the others which to a considerable number water this province.

The principal head of the Tucantines is the river Urubu, which originates in the southern skirt of the serra Doirada, a short distance southward from the capital, and after seventy miles of course towards the north-east, loses the name, confounding itself with the river Almas, which is not inferior to it; and from its origin, near the base of the Montes Pyreneos, flows north-west, about an equal number of miles. After ninety miles of further extent to the north-east, it loses also the name, uniting itself with the Maranham, which is little inferior to it in volume and in length of course. The principal head of the Maranham is the lake Formosa, which is fifteen miles in extent, and two in width. It flows to the north-west, and three miles previous to uniting with the Almas, at the passage to the arraial of Aguaquentes, is one hundred and sixty[237] fathoms in width; a little above, it runs through a bed of rock so contracted that its width is only fifty feet. At this confluence, where it becomes very considerable, it flows northward, describing gentle windings, and augmenting by the many streams which unite themselves with it, especially by the eastern side.

A little below the confluence of the Almas with the Maranham, when the latter traverses a range of small hills, is the cataract of Facao, which prevents the progress of canoes in either direction.

One hundred and forty miles below the said confluence the large river Paranatinga falls into it on the right margin, which takes this name nearly thirty miles above its embouchure, at the junction of the Parannan and the Palma, the latter flowing westward, and the other, which is much larger, north-west from its origin in the General Serra; traversing an unwholesome country, abounding with pasturage, where a prodigious number of cattle and mules are bred.

At the confluence of the Paranatinga, which is said to be in 12° 20′ latitude, the Maranham takes the name of Tucantines, which it preserves until its large volume of water is mingled with the ocean below the city of Para. Nearly seventy miles north of the last confluence the large river Cannabrava discharges itself into the Tucantines by the left margin, and a little lower by the right the considerable river Manuel Alvez, which issues from the Duro Serra, a portion of the cordillera which bounds the province, bringing the waters of many small streams that unite themselves with it on both sides in the space of one hundred and fifty miles, the extent of its course.

A little further to the north, the abundant river Tabocas disembogues by the left, having its heads near the serra of Estrondo. One hundred and forty miles to the north of the said river Manuel Alvez, also by the eastern margin, the Somno (Sleep) adds its abundant waters; and, after a little farther distance, the other Manuel Alvez discharges itself, being larger than the first, and serves, up to the present period, as the northern limit of the eastern portion of the province. Both those rivers flow from the boundary, traversing a territory inhabited by malevolent Indians. A party proceeded up the first, with the intention of exploring its margins and extent, under the influence of such an unpropitious star that they were never more heard of; from which circumstance the river received the name by which it is designated.

A few miles below the Manuel Alvez (the northern) the Tucantines describes a considerable winding towards the east, almost circular, again approximating very near to the place where it had on a sudden changed its direction, and immediately[238] describing another contrary winding to the west, forming two peninsulas, the first of a circular figure, and the other in the form of an oval.

About one hundred miles further, in the latitude of six degrees, the Araguaya incorporates itself with the Tucantines on the left, rendering it exceedingly voluminous and grand, still continuing to flow northward, describing fewer windings and becoming gradually larger. When it passes the town of Cameta, in about 3° latitude, its width is already more than ten miles. The tide flows up this river more than two hundred miles, nearly to the situation denominated Itaboca, which literally means “perforated stone,” where the river is precipitated, in a short space, over three falls, which compel the navigator to unload his canoes. One hundred miles is computed between the mouths of the Araguaya and Itaboca, and from thence to Cameta one hundred and twenty. The paratinga, not less than eight feet in length, with proportionate circumference, and the jahu, are the largest fish of the High Tucantines, which is not considered to abound in any species of fish.

The Araguaya, almost as extensive as the province, forms its western boundary from its embouchure to the origin of its principal head, which is in the vicinity of that of the Hipiaughuhi, there flows under the name of the Bonito, which, after gathering by the western bank the river Barreiros and by the eastern the Caiapo, takes the name of Rio Grande, by which it is designated when it traverses the road of Cuiaba. The first considerable river that unites itself with it after passing this road is the Rio Claro, which comes from the south-east, and brings with it the Fartura, that originates in the proximity of the Uruhu. One hundred miles to the north it receives by the same margin the Vermelho, which is inconsiderable when it passes the capital; a few leagues lower it gathers the Tizoiras, of little less volume and extent than the preceding; and nearly thirty miles further it is united by the Crixa, which is something larger than the others. All three flow from the south-east, and none of them with less than two hundred miles of course. Navigation has been conducted, by the central one, up to this day, from the capital to the city of Para.

Thirty miles north of the mouth of the Crixa, which is also navigable, and has some salt pits in its vicinity, the Araguaya divides itself in the latitude of 12° 30′ into two branches nearly equal, which re-unite themselves in the parallel of 9° 36′, having formed the island of St. Anna, otherwise Bannanal, of one hundred and eighty miles in length, and of good width: there is a vast lake in the island which has an outlet into an arm of this river. The western arm preserves[239] the name of Araguaya, and the eastern takes that of Furo, by which latter navigators commonly proceed. Both have falls, and a great number of islands, generally small, flat, and for the most part inundated during the periodical rains. The margins of the Furo are lower than those of the other arm, which latter receives by the western side various rivers, with which it is greatly augmented. The principal is the Mortes, which flows from the centre of Bororonia with near three hundred miles of course, and empties itself about forty miles north of the southern point of the island of St. Anna. At the northern extremity of this island the margins of the Araguaya are elevated a little to the confluence of that river with the Tucantines. The first navigators placed this confluence in 6°, the geographers of Para in 5°, and others in 3° 30′; the medium is evidently nearest the truth.

The river Corumba has its origin in the proximity of that of the river Almas, not far distant from the Montes Pyreneos. Its course for a vast space describes a large semicircle to the east (where it receives, amongst others, the river St. Bartholomew) as far as the parallel of its source, where the river Peixe is incorporated with it by the right. Thirty miles lower the river Verissimo unites itself with it on the left, after an extensive course, bringing the waters of another called Braco do Verissimo. From hence it flows for a considerable extent, and loses its name on falling into the Parannahiba, which constitutes a boundary for some miles to the province of Minas Geraes as far as the mouth of the river St. Marcos, its northern head, and which makes a similar divisionary line in the opposite direction.

Below the embouchure of the Corumba, the Parannahiba is joined by the large river Velhas, the principal head of which is near that of the Andayha, on the borders of Minas Geraes. Many leagues below the mouth of the river Velhas is the confluence of the Parannahiba with the Rio Grande, the limit of the province. In the vicinity of the embouchure of the Velhas, the Parannahiba receives on the right the Annicuns, the most considerable amongst those which unite themselves with it on that side, and has its source in the large wood of Matto Grosso previously mentioned.

Almost all the povoaçoes or inhabited places of this province already existed when it was so created and delivered to the government of the viceroy, Conde d’Arcos; and all of them, excepting those in the southern districts, owe their foundation to the gold sought after upon their sites and surrounding lands.

The jurisdiction of the ouvidor extended over the whole province, until the[240] present King, when Prince Regent, by a decree of the 18th of March, 1809, divided it into two comarcas, the new one taking the name of St. Joam das Duas Barras, the other retaining that of the capital. Each of them comprehends eight julgados, or divisions, including the district of the capital, the only povoaçao yet enjoying the title of a town.

The above division of the province points out the jurisdiction of each comarca, but does not assist to form a correct idea of the country, in consequence of the great inequality which prevails in their extent and population; for instance, the julgado of the capital is upwards of five hundred miles long from north to south, and of proportionable width, and the julgado of Conceiçao extends east and west from one boundary of the province to the other; whilst that of Pilar is not more than one hundred miles long, and those of Desemboque and Araxa are much smaller.

It will be therefore preferable, in the delineation of this province, to follow nature, which has divided it into six cantos, not varying essentially in extent, and marked by visible boundaries. A line drawn from the mouth of the Parannahiba by its bed to the confluence of the river Annicuns, by this upwards, then by the river Boys to its origin, crossing to that of the river Pedras, by it down to the Almas, which continues it to the Maranham and Tucantines, divides the province into two parts, eastern and western, which latter is the larger portion, each of which is subdivided into three grand districts; namely,—

District of Cayaponia.

Cayaponia derives its name from the Cayapo nation, who have occupied it from time immemorial.

It is bounded on the north by the district of Goyaz; on the west by Bororonia, from which it is separated by the river Araguaya; on the south by Camapuania, from which it is divided by the river Pardo; and on the east by the rivers Paranna, Parannahiba, and Annicuns, which separate it, the first from the province of St. Paulo, the others from the district of Rio das Velhas. The northern limit is distinctly marked by a range of mountains, running in the same parallel of latitude as the lake of Pasmados, situated near the river of its name, in 17° 20′. It is upwards of two hundred and fifty miles in length from north to south, and one hundred and seventy at its medium width.

It is the least known amongst the districts of this province, not yet possessing a single Christianized establishment. The Cayapos, divided into various tribes, under whose dominion it hitherto remains, have from time to time made destructive sallies upon the caravans of Cuiaba, and invaded the northern part of the province of St. Paulo, where they have occasioned the flight of many colonies. They wander about almost in a state of nudity. Besides the bow and arrow, arms common to all the other Indian nations, they use also a club about one yard in length, of choice wood, round at the end which they lay hold of, and flat in the form of an oar at the other, the whole ornamented or dressed with the barks of shrubs of various colours, and woven in imitation of a mat. A blow from this weapon is fatal. Honey, fish, wild fruits, and game are their aliment. Their principal dwelling places are in the vicinity of the river Cururuhy, and not far removed from the cataract of Urubu Punga, whither they are in the habit of proceeding in large parties, for the purpose of fishing. There are times that the Portuguese do not experience any hostility from these Indians, and amongst other instances, one occurred in the year 1810, when Dr. Joam Ferreyra, treasurer-mor of the cathedral of St. Paulo, in order to gratify his curiosity, proceeded to visit and examine this famous cataract, where he arrived at the same time that a tribe of Cayapos appeared there, who conducted themselves as ancient allies, and with every appearance of friendship; they received graciously the presents which the traveller liberally offered to them, and allowed various persons of both sexes and different ages to remain in his company.

The ancient certanistas met with various rivers in the interior of this district, flowing southward, and their diaries enumerate, amongst others, the Perdiçao, which is nearest to the Annicuns, and most probably one of its tributaries; the[242] Turvo, the Doirados, the Gallera, and the Pasmados, which is the most westerly, receives some of the preceding, and falls into the Parannan, near the cascade of Urubu Punga, under the name of Cururuhy. They also mention the Appary, which discharges itself into the said Parannan, many leagues above the fall, and two Cayapos, both tributaries like the preceding river, and little distant, one to the south and the other to the north of it.

The Sucuriu is considerable, disembogues a little below the Tiete, and is navigable nearly to its origin, which is north of Camapuan, upon the border of Bororonia. A certanista proceeded by it with his canoes to the Piquery, which conducted them to the river St. Lourenço.

The river Verde, which is also considerable, and of crystalline and excellent water, affords navigation to the interior of a peninsula, formed by the preceding river and the Pardo, the southern limit of the province, with the Parannan, which receives them. The water of this river, before being drawn from its bed, resembles green ink. Its margins abound with most beautiful woods, consisting of the finest timber.

District of Goyaz.

This district, which is larger than the preceding one, and is bounded by it on the south, has on the west the same limits as the province; on the east the districts of Rio das Velhas and Parannan; and on the north the district of Nova Beira, from which it is separated in part by the Estrondo serra and the river Tabocas.

The nation from which the province borrowed its name was not the only one that ruled here; to the north of it there lived a tribe called Crixas, whose name was given to the river that traverses their territory.

Amongst other mountains, generally of moderate elevation, may be enumerated the serra Doirada, not far distant from the capital, to the southward, which extends itself for a considerable space to the west. The serra Escalvada, lying further to the south, and running in the same direction as the preceding one; the serra Santa Martha, to the south-west of the last; and the Sentinilla, which prolongs itself for a great distance with the river Claro.

The said river Claro, the Vermelho, the Tizoiras, and the Crixa, are the principal streams of this district. The second is small on passing the capital, but soon afterwards becomes more considerable by the addition of various small rivers, which render it navigable. Amongst those which join it by the left margin are the Indios, the Tacoaral, the Tigres, and the Cachoeira, all issuing from the[243] Doirada serra. The Bugres is the first abundant stream which unites itself with it by the right bank, and the Ferreiro the second. The Peixe is an arm of the Tizoiras, and navigable.

In the northern part of the district is to be noted the river Caldas, which is of short extent; it issues from a lake of the same name, and discharges itself into the Maranham, fifty miles above the Paratininga.

The Santa Thereza, and the Cannabrava, enter the Tucantines by one common embouchure, under the name of the first, which is the most voluminous.

Villa Boa, at its commencement denominated the arraial of St. Anna, was raised into a town in the year 1739, and is large, populous, and flourishing. It is the residence of the governor, at present Senhor Fernando Delgado, of the prelate, who is a bishop in partibus, and also of the ouvidor of the comarca, who fills other situations as well as that of crown judge. The senate is presided by a Juiz de Fora, who besides holds the appointment of attorney-general.

This town occupies a flat situation upon the margins of the Vermelho, which divides it into two unequal portions, communicating by three bridges. It is in the centre of the Brazil. Its edifices are neither large, elegant, nor substantial: the principal are the mother church, dedicated to St. Anna, five chapels to the Lady of Boa Morte, Rozario, Carmo, Abbadia, and Lapa; another of St. Francisco; the palace of the governor; the Caza da Camara, (or town house); the Caza da Contadoria, (exchequer); and the Caza da Fundicao do Oiro, (smelting house.) It has a fort, with two pieces of artillery to fire salutations upon occasions of solemnities, a fountain, and a public walk. The heat is intense during the dry season; night breezes, however, are usual, and exceedingly grateful.

This town has a tribunal which decides upon the affairs of the province, denominated the Junta de Real Fazenda, a council consisting of five deputies, including the governor, who is the president, the judge, the attorney-general, a treasurer, and an escrivao. It is situated in 16° 20′ of southern latitude.

The municipal body of this town, whose revenue amounts to one thousand oitavas of gold, are said to have a sesmaria of land, in a circle around the town of five leagues in diameter.

Half a mile distant from the town, there is a hermitage of St. Barbara. Five leagues to the north-west of it is situated the small arraial of Barra, with a[244] hermitage of the Lady of Rozario, at the embouchure of the Bugres. Its territory is auriferous.

Eight leagues in the same direction as the preceding is the arraial of Anta and parish of Bom Jesus, with two chapels of the Lady of Rozario and Boa Morte, situated between two small streams, which unite themselves previously to entering the Vermelho, and was founded in the year 1729. The gold which caused its origin is not yet exhausted; but, whether from indolence or any other cause, no one is at present occupied in its extraction.

Ten miles to the north of the latter place, near the river Peixe, in a plain, is the arraial of St. Rita, ornamented with a hermitage of the same name. It is actually the port of navigation from the capital to the city of Para. The river discharges itself into the Tizoiras by the left margin, and is only navigable during the rainy season.

Thirty-five miles to the north of the arraial of St. Rita, near the river Tizoiras, was founded, in the year 1755, the arraial of the same name, which was the parish of St. Miguel, and flourished whilst cultivation was profitable; but with the apparent exhaustion of gold it began to decay, and from the sterility of the land, and the want of water, it was ultimately forsaken. Cattle are, however, now bred in its district. A species of bird, which the discoverers of the country called tizoiras, (or scissors,) in consequence of having a tail similar to a pair of opened scissors, was the origin of its name.

Ninety miles to the north of the capital is the considerable arraial and parish of Crixa, the head of the julgado of that name, which was founded in the year 1734, near a small river, and about ten miles distant from the left margin of the river that affords it the name. Its church has for a titular saint the Lady of Conceiçao. There is also a chapel of St. Efigenia, two of Nossa Senhora of Rozario and Abbadia. The population forms four companies of militia, one of which is cavalry, and another free blacks.

Thirty-five miles to the east-north-east of Crixa, near a small river which runs into the Almas, is the large, flourishing, and well situated arraial and parish of Pilar, head of the julgado, founded in 1741, with the name of Pappuan, a herb abundant in this part. It is ornamented by a church, whose titular saint affords its name to the establishment, a chapel of St. Gonçalo, two of the Lady of Rozario and Merces, a fountain, and good streets. The environs are mountainous. In front of it there is a morro, which, it is calculated, has afforded more than one hundred arrobas (thirty-two pounds each) of gold, and[245] from whence a much greater quantity might be extracted with water and proper management. There is a curious operation of nature in its vicinity, near the road of Carretao, representing human visages. It is worthy of notice.

Twenty miles to the east of Pilar is situated the aldeia of Lavrinhas, near the source of a small stream, which, after a course of ten miles, enters the river Almas.

Ten miles to the south-west of Pilar, near the river Moquem, a branch of the Crixa, is the arraial of Gorinos, with a hermitage. It was fully inhabited whilst its mines of gold were productive.

Three miles to the east of Villa Boa is situated the arraial of Ferreiro, (Blacksmith) with a chapel of St. Joam Baptista. It is the most ancient establishment of the province. It derived its name from a blacksmith, who remained there exercising his trade, after the miners had deserted it, for the purpose of mining in other places. About eight miles to the east of the preceding place, near a small river, a branch of the river Uruhu, is the considerable arraial of Oiro Fino, (Fine Gold) which took this name from the superior quality of that metal found here. It has a chapel dedicated to the Lady of Pilar.

Eighteen miles to the south-west of the capital is the arraial and parish of St. Joze de Mossamedes, founded in the year 1774, for the habitation of a numerous colony of Indians, consisting of three different nations, the Carajas and Javahes, brought from the district of Nova Beira, and the Accroas, who lived to the east of the serra Parannan, in the territory where the Correntes has its heads.

Twenty-eight miles to the south-west of St. Joze, and forty-five from the capital, is situated Aldeia Maria, near the margin of the river Fartura, in a plain constantly refreshed by breezes. It was founded in 1781, for the establishment of almost three hundred Cayapo Indians, who were augmented in the following year by more than two hundred of the same nation, invited thither by the report of the good treatment which their comrades experienced. Afterwards came various mallocas, or parties, amongst whom arrived some caciques, or captains, one of whom had hair resembling that of a mulatto. One cripple and some blind, amongst so many, prove that this nation are not greatly subjected to natural bodily defects. At the beginning they showed themselves grateful for the benefits conferred upon them, faithful to their promises, and without any remarkable propensity to thieving: some learned trades the most wanted in the colony. The women, after a short time, learned to spin, weave, and sew. This establishment, which was expected to have become flourishing by this time, is[246] considerably fallen off, in consequence, it is said, of the repugnancy of the whites to ally themselves with the Indians.

Within this district is the new arraial of Annicuns, situated near the right margin of the Boys, which here has only the appearance of a small stream. It is forty miles to the south-east of the capital, and has a church dedicated to St. Francisco d’Assis. Its inhabitants are miners and agriculturists. The first have formed a company for mining. The land is appropriated to various productions.

District of Nova Beira.

The district of Nova Beira is to the north of that of Goyaz, and extends northward, between the rivers Araguaya and Tucantines, to its termination at the angle of their confluence. It is upwards of four hundred miles in length from north to south, and one hundred and thirty in width. The island of St. Anna belongs to it.

Almost the whole yet belongs to various savage nations. The Chavante tribe, which appears to be the most numerous, possesses the major part towards the north. Their neighbours are the Pochetis, the Noroguages, the Appynages, the Carajas, the Cortys, and the Xerentes. The Chavante Indians after being established, and many baptized, in the aldeia of Pedro Terceiro, (in the situation of Carretao, district of Pilar,) built expressly for them, in consequence of the vassalage which they voluntarily offered, deserted all at one time, and returned to their natural mode of life. They are at present the most formidable enemies of the Portuguese.

The river Crixa, (the northern,) the St. Antonio, and the Taboca, are the most considerable amongst those which enter the Tucantines. The large river Chavante, formed by many others which irrigate the territory of the tribe from whom it takes the name, flows into the Araguaya a little above the re-union of its two arms which form the island of St. Anna.

Four hundred miles to the north of Villa Boa, and nearly fifteen from the margin of the Tucantines, is situated the arraial of Pontal, so called in consequence of a point or elbow which the river forms in its vicinity. It was founded in 1738, and has a parochial church dedicated to Senhor Bom Jesus, of Boa Morte. Its inhabitants breed cattle, and cultivate mandioca, Indian corn, legumes, and some cotton. All the different species of fruit are known here.

The width of the Tucantines, at the passage from this arraial to that of Carmo, which is distant thirty-five miles to the east, is three hundred and seventy-four fathoms at the period of its greatest diminution, and more than five hundred when its bed is full. Porto Real is the name of this passage.

The aldeia of Mantanca is ten miles to the north of Pontal, near the origin of a small river, which after a course of twelve miles enters the Tucantines. It is yet insignificant, in consequence of the invasions of the Indians, but it abounds with fish, game, and fruits. The salubrity of the climate, the fertility of the soil, the abundance of water, the extensive neighbouring woods, and the gold which is known to exist in the district, ought long ago to have produced an accumulating population, a great augmentation of the existing villages, and many other improvements; in which case its inhabitants would, ere this, have reduced or put to flight the hostile Indians, and, besides, would have been carrying on a great commercial intercourse with the merchants of Gram Para. None of the comarcas of this province hold so advantageous a situation for commerce.

In the angle of the confluence of the Araguaya with the Tucantines, there is a prezidìo, or military detachment, to register the canoes which navigate by both rivers to the city of Para. This is the place where the before-mentioned decree of 1809 ordered the town of St. Joam das Duas Barras to be founded, for the head of the comarca of that name. It is said, however, that this project, so well conceived, was not effected, in consequence of the reefs with which this situation is encompassed, and which impeded the access of canoes. This probably was the reason of two places being founded, one upon each river, higher up.

In the year 1775 were reduced the two savage nations of Carajas and Javahes, who possessed the island of St. Anna, or Bannanal. The first were established in six aldeias, and the other in three, nearly the whole with names of places in Portugal; namely, Angeja and Seabra, both for the Carajas, near the southern extremity of the island; the first near the eastern arm, and the other near the western; Cunha, for the Javahes, thirty-five miles to the north of Angeja, and some distance from the river; Annadia, for the Carajas, twenty-eight miles to the north of Seabra, and near the river; St. Pedro, for the same, and eighteen miles to the north-east of Cunha, near the margin of the river; Ponte de Lima, for the Javahes, in the centre of the island; Lavradio, fifty miles to the north of Annadia; Lamacaes, forty to the north; both for the Carajas, in the vicinity of the river; and Mello, for the Javahes, some distance from the[248] eastern arm. At this period the name of Nova Beira was given to the neighbouring territory.

District of Tucantines.

It is the most northern of the eastern districts, and borrows its name from the river which bounds it on the west, separating it from Nova Beira. On the east it is bounded by the cordillera which constitutes the limit between this province and that of Pernambuco. The two rivers of Manuel Alvez did bound it, one on the north, and the other on the south; but, as it has increased towards the north, the limit on that side is not at present quite determinable. This district is computed to be two hundred and eighty miles long from north to south, and one hundred and forty of medium width.

The two rivers Manuel Alvez and Somno are the principal of those which water this comarca. The latter, it is said, rises in the serra of Figuras, a continuation of the cordillera before alluded to, from whose sides others issue that augment its waters at the commencement. All three are navigable, and afford the same fish as the Tucantines.

It is a country mountainous in great part, and yet occupied at its northern extremity by various barbarous nations, who follow hunting, damage the farms of cattle breeders, and advance occasionally in squadrons of canoes by the rivers that approximate to the Portuguese establishments. They are of the Xerente, Chavante, and Tapacoa tribes. Woods exist almost only upon the margins of the rivers, the principal portion consisting of sandy sterile lands, in part appropriated for breeding cattle. Calcareous stone abounds in some places. Gold gave origin to its establishments, and, while obtained without much ingenuity and labour, rendered many persons rich.

Six miles distant from the right margin of the southern river of Manuel Alvez, and little less than thirty-five from the Tucantines, in the proximity of the morro of Olhos d’Agua, (so called from various rills thence emanating,) where there is gold, and near the small river St. Antonio, is the arraial of Natividade. It is the head of the julgado, with the condition of a town, and the residence at present of the ouvidor of the comarca. It was founded in 1739, and has a church, where the festival of the Nativity of our Lord is held with much solemnity. It has also two chapels dedicated to Rozario and Terco, and another of St. Benedicto. The culture of the cane, the cotton tree, tobacco, Indian corn, mandioca, and legumes, occupy the greater part of the population. Miners are[249] few; as the produce (from not adopting a new mode) of the mines affords them no encouragement. Cattle are bred. Oranges and citrons are excellent.

Near seven miles to the north of Natividade is the small and agreeably situated arraial of Chapada, with a chapel of St. Anna. The people who inhabit it cultivate the same productions as those of the former place, and are miners.

Fifty miles to the north-north-west of the preceding, and twenty from the Tucantines, at the angle of the confluence of the small river Sucuriu and the Matança, is the pleasant arraial of Carmo. It was founded in 1741, in the proximity of a serra, ornamented with a mother church dedicated to St. Manuel, and a chapel of the Lady of Rozario. The houses are built of adobe, a sort of brick dried in the sun. Its inhabitants drink the waters of the Sucuriu, which are excellent. They are miners and agriculturists, and cultivate Indian corn, tobacco, cotton, sugar, mandioca, and legumes, with various hortulans and fruits.

Seventy miles to the east of Natividade is the arraial of Almas, a little distance from the river Manuel Alvez and near the road of Duro. Its inhabitants cultivate the necessaries of life and cotton.

Forty miles to the east of the preceding, is the aldeia of Duro, upon the boundary of the province, with a register for preventing the embezzlement of gold. The major part of its dwellers are Christianized Indians, poor and content with their condition, cultivating and collecting only what is absolutely necessary to preserve life.

A few leagues to the north of the aldeia of Duro is that of Formiga, also peopled with Christianized Indians, who are equally indolent, are hunters, and more contented with gathering fruits from the wild trees, than planting others of greater utility.

Between the mouth of the northern river Manuel Alvez and the first peninsula, is the new arraial of St. Pedro d’Alcantara, upon the margin of the Tucantines.

District of Parannan.

This district derives its name from the river which traverses it diagonally. It is bounded on the north by the comarca of Tucantines, on the west by that of Goyaz, on the south by the Rio das Velhas, and on the east by the limits of the province. It is watered by a great number of rivers, interspersed with mountains, and better peopled than the others, although still infested by the barbarians, who advance up the principal rivers. In some districts there are[250] many persons subject from their infancy to a disease in the throat, called bronchocele.

Rivers.—Besides the Parannan and the Maranham, its western and southern limits, we may remark the river Trahiras of the south, the Preto, (both crossed by bridges), the Bagagem, the small Tucantines, the Palma, the St. Feliz, (with a large bridge,) the Trahiras of the north, and the small river Custodio, both of difficult passage even in dry weather; the Gamelleiro, near whose mouth there is a rock of remarkable form and height, and the Bacalhau of considerable width. The whole discharge into the Maranham, except the last, which unites itself with the Bagagem by the left margin, and the Palma which joins the Parannan.

The river Palma is formed by the Palmeiro, Mosquito, and Sobrado. The latter, which is the most northerly, rises in a plain upon the summit of the wide serra of Mangabeira, and a few fathoms it is said, from the origin of the river Ondas, (which runs to the St. Francisco) and seven miles below its source receives the Torno, a considerable stream which issues from among the roots of an over-spreading gamelleira or gamella tree, and has not a mile of course, being as voluminous at the commencement as at the embouchure.

The river Correntes, which is one of the first branches of the Parannan, flows from the serra of St. Domingos, and after some leagues conceals itself for three miles by a subterraneous passage through a mountain, where its waters lose their colour and good quality. The river Galheiro, which descends from the serra St. Domingos to the Parannan, receives a small river, (called the St. Domingos) which runs for a considerable space under ground, being only discoverable in some places through apertures. Amongst other serras may be noted the Viadeiros, which runs parallel with the river Parannan at the distance of eighteen miles. It is bare of vegetation or woods, and is the most elevated of the central ones. From it issues the river Tucantines and the Preto.

Two miles distant from the confluence of the river Almas with the Maranham, and seventy miles to the north-east of Pilar, is the arraial of Aguaquente, (Warm Water) situated near a large and deep lake of brackish, fetid, and warm water, from which it derived the name. A church of St Sebastiao and a chapel of our[251] Lady of Merces are its only places of worship. It was commenced about the year 1732, in the frontier situation, where some vestiges remain. An epidemical disease, produced by standing and putrid pools of water, occasioned by the floods of the Maranham, led those who wished to escape with life to the place where this arraial is now situated. It was not unusual for fifty to die in one day. A numerous herd of oxen arriving from St. Paulo, for the supply of this arraial, where they were collected at night, and pastured in its environs during the day, was the cause, it is stated, of this contagion ceasing. The gold, which was so abundant at first, induced an assemblage here of twelve thousand persons. Amongst other pieces of considerable size, one was found of forty-three pounds weight, which was transmitted to the court, in the same form that nature presented it. This rarity was placed in the Royal Museum of Lisbon; and became the booty of the French army when in that city. There are some frightful caverns upon the margins of this lake, the outlet from which is a small perennial stream, not experiencing any diminution during the droughts.

Fifteen miles to the east-north-east of Aguaquente is the arraial of Cocal, so called from its great number of cocoa trees, and situated near a small river which loses itself in the Maranham. Whilst gold was abundant this place flourished, but it is now very inconsiderable. The arraial of Trahiras, twenty miles to the north-east of Aguaquente, large and flourishing, is the head of the julgado; it was founded in 1735, upon the left margin, and twenty miles above the mouth of the river that gives it the name. It has a church of Nossa Senhora da Conceiçao, a hermitage of Bom Jesus, and another of Our Lady of Rozario. It is well supplied with meat, fish, and the agricultural productions of the country.

Five miles to the north-east of Trahiras, is the middling arraial of St. Joze de Tucantines, improperly so denominated, being nearly thirty miles distant from that river. It was founded in 1735, near the left margin of the river Bacalhau, and has two hermitages of Our Lady of Boa Morte and of Rozario, and another of St. Efigenia. Its church is the most magnificent temple in the province. There is a brotherhood of the Lord dos Passos[23] privileged by Pope Clement XIII.

About twelve miles to the east of the preceding is the small arraial of Cachoeira, to which a cataract furnished the name, Cachoeira being founded near it, upon the margin of the river, in the year 1736.

Ten miles to the north of Cachoeira is the small arraial of St. Ritta, founded in the same year as the preceding, and possessing a chapel. Twenty-eight miles to the east of St. Ritta is the small arraial of Moquem, near the river Peixe, which is a branch of the Bagagem, having a hermitage of the Lady of Abbadia.

St. Feliz, a well supplied arraial, in a state of mediocrity, and about seventy miles north of St. Joze, is situated near the right bank of the small river of the same name, and less than three miles from the Maranham. It was founded in the year 1736, and has a church called after the same saint, a hermida, or hermitage, of the Lady of Rozario, and one of St. Anna. It is the head of the julgado, and possessed for a considerable time a smelting house for gold. Some of its inhabitants are yet miners; the rest breeders of cattle and cultivators of the necessaries of life.

The Caldas of St. Feliz, (the hot baths or waters of St. Feliz,) otherwise called Frey Raynaldo, are thirty-five miles further to the south, consisting of four springs of tepid, and one of very hot water.

Seven miles to the north of St. Feliz, near the road, there is a mass of black stone, with so frightful and profound a cavern, that no one has yet dared to examine it. Three miles more to the north is situated an aldeia, with a hermida of Our Lady of Carmo, from which it takes the name.

Cavalcante, a flourishing arraial, founded in 1740, has a church of St. Anna, two hermidas of the Lady of Rozario and Boa Morte, and is seventy miles to the east of St. Feliz, near a small river which runs to the Parannan, under the name of Rio das Almas. It is the head of the julgado, well provided with water, and has a smelting house transferred from St. Feliz. Its inhabitants form five companies of militia. It has a rich quarry, but deep and difficult to work. It would become important in the hands of an opulent company, and directed by intelligent persons. Cattle are bred within its district. Mandioca, Indian corn, some wheat, and cotton, are the articles of cultivation.

Seventy miles to the north of St. Feliz, and not far removed from the mouth of the river Palma, is the arraial of Conceiçao, with a church of the same name. It is the head of the julgado: the people who inhabit it are miners, breeders of cattle, farmers of such necessaries of life as prosper best in the country, and form four companies of militia. It is very deficient in good water. Within its district is the small arraial of Principe, with a hermitage.

Arrayas is an arraial in a state of mediocrity, head of the julgado, has a church of Our Lady of Remedios, was founded in the year 1740, and is fifty[253] miles to the north-east of Cavalcante, near the origin of the river from which it derives the name. Its environs are in great part mountainous, and abound with cattle, which constitute the wealth of the inhabitants, who are formed into four companies of militia.

Twenty-five miles to the south-east of Arrayas, near a small river which runs into the Parannan, is the small arraial of Morro do Chapeo, founded in 1779. A neighbouring mount, similar in appearance to a hat, (chapeo,) and from which gold is extracted, was the origin of its name. Cattle constitute the riches of the inhabitants.

Forty miles to the east of Morro do Chapeo, and in the skirts of the serra of its name, is the arraial and freguezia of St. Domingos, in the vicinity of which there is a rock of remarkable height and appearance. Its inhabitants breed cattle, and cultivate a variety of the necessaries of life.

A little to the east, upon the limits of the province, there is a detachment to prevent the embezzlement of gold.

Flores is a middling and well supplied arraial, and head of the julgado, has a church of Our Lady of Conceiçao, and a hermida of Rozario, with a brotherhood of blacks. It is seventy miles to the south-east of Cavalcante, near the right margin of the river Parannan, in a fertile situation. Cattle and horses are the principal riches of its inhabitants.

Within its extensive bounds is situated the aldeia of Matto Grosso, with a hermitage of the Lady of Piedade; and the small arraial of St. Roza, with another hermitage of that saint; and in whose district is a remarkable cavern, with many stalactites, or crystallizations of different forms.

Ninety miles to the south of Flores, and two miles from a lake denominated Lagoa Feia, is the arraial of Coiros, formerly the head of the julgado, which pre-eminence, in 1774, was transferred to Cavalcante. It has a church dedicated to St. Luzia, and a hermida, where the blacks celebrate the festival of Our Lady of Rozario. Within its extensive limits, large herds of cattle are bred.

A law emanated on the 25th February, 1814, for the foundation of a town to be called St. Joam da Palma, in a situation determined upon at the embouchure of the river of the same name, to become the head of the comarca of St. Joam das Duas Barras. In order to give it an immediate commencement, and to accelerate its augmentation, all individuals were exempted from payment of the dizimos for the space of ten years who erected a house for their own habitation in this town, or within the circle marked for its limits. By the[254] same law, the town of St. Joam das Duas Barras, ordered to be founded by a decree in 1809, was to become subject to this town.

The major part of the cattle bred in this district are consumed in the reconcave of Bahia, and in the comarca of the Ilheos.

District of Rio das Velhas.

This district, to which one of the rivers that traverse it lends the name, is bounded on the north by the district of Parannan, on the south by the province of St. Paulo, on the east by that of Minas Geraes, and on the west by the districts of Goyaz and Cayaponia. It is three hundred and fifty miles from north to south, and one hundred and seventy of medium width.

Besides the river which affords it the name, and those which serve for its western and southern limits, it contains numerous others. Upon the road of Meia Ponte to St. Paulo, amongst other small ones, are the Capivary, which is forded with difficulty even in dry weather, the Pyracanjuba, the Peixe, (both with bridges,) all three discharging themselves into the Corumba by the right bank; the Braco do Verissimo; the Verissimo, which receives the former; the Parannahiba; and the small stream of Furnas, that flows through a plain, and on a sudden is precipitated twenty fathoms into a profound abyss. A variety of birds build their nests in the cavities of the rock, and rear their young, in sight, and amidst the murmuring sounds of this fine cataract. The Furnas discharges itself soon afterwards into the Rio das Velhas. The two Uberavas, verdadeiro, (the real one,) which runs into the preceding, and the falso, (or false,) that enters the Rio Grande. The small river Inferno which issues from the serra of Canastra, and enters the Rio das Velhas by the left; the river Quebra Anzoes, that originates on the confines of Minas Geraes, and also unites itself with the Rio das Velhas by the right margin; but none of them reach the road, near which the river Prata and the Tijuco rise, and, after uniting, enter the river Parannahiba a considerable distance below the confluence of the Rio das Velhas.

On the road of Paracatu is met with (besides the afore-mentioned Corumba) the river Areas, the Montes Claros, the Pont’ Alta, (all with bridges,) and the St. Bartholomew. The whole are stored with a diversity of fish, and flow southward.

In the most northern part of the district is the river Almas, the Peixe, which unites with the first by the right, and the Patos, that flows along and to the east of the serra Negra, and afterwards joins the Maranham a few leagues[255] above the arraial of Aguaquente. These rivers possess the same fish as the Tucantines.

The territory lying between the two Uberavas is a plain of thirty-five miles in width, without the least elevation above the horizon, and absolutely destitute of wood; but supplying the deer and the emu ostrich.

In the middle of the last century there lived, between the Parannahiba and the Rio Grande, a horde of Bororos, whose cacique was then a Paulista, called Antonio Pirez de Campos, a youth of much subtilty, and well adapted for the management of those savages amongst whom he sought refuge, being driven from civilized society by the extent of his crimes. He died, between the years 1750 and 1760, of a wound which he received in the arm, in an encounter with the Cayapos. His comrades applied medicinally, for many days, hot broiled bacon to the wound, until they conveyed him to a Christianized establishment in Minas Geraes, to try if he could be there cured. They lamented for a month over him as a common father.

Amongst other serras in the northern part is that of Caldas, four leagues square, and flat upon the summit, where there are some lakes and deer.

The principal povoaçoes are Meia Ponte, Santa Luzia, Santa Cruz, St. Domingos, and Desemboque.

Meia Ponte is the largest, most flourishing, and commercial povoaçao in the province, with the exception of the capital, from which it is ninety miles distant to the east, and is situated near the Almas, which there is only an inconsiderable stream. It has a church of Nossa Senhora of Rozario, four hermidas, three dedicated to Our Lady, with the titles of Carmo, Lapa, and Rozario, of the blacks, another of the Lord of Bom Fim, and an Hospicio d’Esmoleres (an alms-house for the entertainment of the travelling brotherhood) of Terra Santa. It was founded in the year 1731, is the head of the julgado, well supplied with meat and fish, and has a royal professor of Latin. Its inhabitants, and those of the environs, cultivate Indian corn, wheat, mandioca, tobacco, cotton, sugar, some coffee, and breed cattle; likewise many hogs. They manufacture certain descriptions of cloth, both of wool and cotton; and hence this place is considered the cradle and centre of the agriculture and industry of the province. The caravans from the capital and from Cuiaba, proceeding to the metropolis, to St. Paulo, or Bahia, pass this way.

About eighteen miles to the east-north-east is the cordillera called Montes Pyreneos, (the Pyrenees.) From its sides flow torrents to the four cardinal points.

Nearly fifty miles to the east of Meia Ponte, in the vicinity of some fine hills,[256] denominated Montes Claros, there is a hermida of St. Luzia, which ornamented the decayed arraial of St. Antonio.

St. Luzia, a middling and well supplied arraial, which derives its name from the patroness of the church, is seven miles from the road of Paracatu, and almost at an equal distance from the rivers Pont’ Alta and St. Bartholomew, being eighteen miles, with little difference, from each, in a pleasant and wholesome situation, abounding with water. It is the head of the julgado, has a hermitage of Our Lady of Rozario, produces good cheese and marmalade, and is seventy miles east-south-east of Meia Ponte. In its environs cattle are exceedingly abundant, constituting the wealth of its inhabitants.

St. Cruz, a small arraial, with a church of the Lady of Conceiçao, is the most ancient of the province, and head of the julgado. It is one hundred miles to the south-south-east of Meia Ponte, upon the road of St. Paulo, a little removed from the left margin of the river Pary, and about one mile from the morro of Clemente, abounding with gold, which has not yet been worked for the want of water; because, according to the saying of the miners here, “a mountain of gold is worth nothing, if it has not water.” Its inhabitants are agriculturists and cattle breeders. In its district are the caldas, or hot springs of the same name, consisting of various fountains, differing in the degree of heat, and little distant from each other. Their waters, which have been efficacious in many diseases, form the small river Caldas.

Almost in the middle of the interval from St. Cruz to Meia Ponte, and also upon the road, is the small arraial of Bom Fim, with a hermitage of that name. The inhabitants are gold miners, breed cattle, and cultivate the necessaries of life.

One hundred and forty miles to the south of St. Cruz is the arraial of St. Anna, two miles distant from the northern margin of the river Velhas, in an agreeable situation, and is the parochial of all the Christianized Indians, who live in those parts, near the road of St. Paulo. It was founded in the year 1741, for the habitation of five hundred Bororo Indians, who came from Cuiaba to succour the Christians against the Cayapos, who carried devastation amongst the Portuguese establishments. They lived here till the year 1775, when they were removed to the arraial of Lanhozo, a horde of Chacriaba Indians remaining in their stead, who were brought from the margins of Rio Preto, in the province of Pernambuco, and who are at present the inhabitants of the place, with some of other nations. They cultivate mandioca, Indian corn, and legumes.

Twenty miles to the north of the parish of St. Anna, and also near the same road, upon the northern margin of the small river Pedras, is situated the aldeia of that name, formerly inhabited by Bororos, but now almost depopulated, in consequence of that horde being removed in 1811 to the new prezidios of Nova Beira. The arraial of Lanhozo above mentioned, founded near the Uberava Falso, no longer exists, its people having united themselves with those of the river Pedras.

The arraial of St. Domingos do Araxa, in a state of mediocrity, modernly erected into the head of the julgado, is situated in a plain traversed by a small stream, and is thirty miles distant from the boundary, and twenty from the river Quebr’ Anzoes, (Hook Breaker.) The wells of excellent water, which save the breeders from the expense of purchasing salt for the cattle, and the considerable portions of fertile land in which various branches of agriculture will flourish, have already invited many hundred families to remove their establishments here, and which will probably in a few years render this parish the most populous one in the province. They already manufacture cotton cloth, and are commencing upon woollens. Large quantities of hogs and cattle are bred.

The arraial of Desemboque, head of the julgado, has a church of Our Lady of Desterro, and is situated upon the left margin of the river Velhas, about thirty-five miles distant from the boundary of Minas Geraes. Its inhabitants breed cattle, and cultivate an abundance of the necessaries of life.

In the year 1812, the arraial of St. Antonio and St. Sebastiao were commenced, with a hermitage dedicated to those saints, near the channel of the Lage, two miles distant from the road of St. Paulo to the east, and one from the left margin of the Uberava Falso. The people who inhabit it cultivate feijao, Indian corn, rice, and cotton, with the fruits and hortulans of the country, and breed cattle.

This province, created in the year 1720, being until that period a portion of that of St. Paulo, is bounded on the north by the province of Bahia, from which it is separated by the river Verde, and by that of Pernambuco, from which it is divided by the river Carynhenha; on the south by the serra of Mantiqueira, which separates it from that of St. Paulo, and the rivers Preto, Parahibuna, and Parahiba, which divide it from the province of Rio de Janeiro; on the west by the province of Goyaz; and on the east by that of Espirito Santo, Porto Seguro, and a part of Bahia. It is nearly four hundred miles long from north to south, and two hundred and eighty of medium width, extending from 15° 30′ to 21° 40′. The climate is temperate compared with others of the torrid zone, arising from the elevated and mountainous nature of this province. The winter commences in October, always with thunder. Some years, in the months of June and July, towards the southern part, cold and frost are prevalent, and water congeals in vessels exposed to the night air.

Gold, which is found in all the districts of this province, was the origin of its name, (General Mines,) and which becomes still more appropriate, since all other metals are ascertained to exist here.

The discovery of this country is owing to the intrepidity of S. F. Tourinho, an inhabitant of Porto Seguro, who, proceeding up the river Doce, in 1573, traversed it as far as the Jequitinhonha, by which he descended.

A few years afterwards A. D. Adorno, with a view of profiting by the mines of emeralds discovered by Tourinho, advanced, with one hundred and fifty[259] whites and four hundred Indians, up the Cricare, and came back by the same river as his precursor.

Many years had elapsed when, with the same project, M. d’Azevedo penetrated into this country as far as the lake Vupabussu.

In 1793, a Thaubateno, A. Rodriguez, entered the certam of Cuyate, accompanied by fifty men; but discord interrupted their proceedings, and Rodriguez returned by the capitania of Espirito Santo, where he exhibited three oitavas (a drachm each) of gold, to demonstrate that he had traversed auriferous lands. Proceeding to Rio de Janeiro, and thence to Thaubate, he soon expired, in consequence of the exhausted state he was reduced to by the fatigues and privations of the enterprise, previously recommending his brother-in-law, Bartholomew Bueno, to persevere in this project.

Impelled by the poverty to which extravagancies had reduced him, Bueno set out, in 1694, upon the enterprise, accompanied by Captain M. d’Almeida and other persons, directing their course by the heads of the serras pointed out in the diary of the late Rodriguez.

Captain M. Garcia, accompanied by Colonel S. Fernandez and other adventurers, actuated by similar motives, took their departure in the following year; met with Bueno at the serra of Itaberava, near thirty miles to the south of Villa Rica, and returned the first with twelve oitavas of gold, which led to the establishment of a melting house in the town of Thaubate.

This circumstance caused a great many Paulistas to undertake various other voyages, in spite of the fatigues and dangers with which they were beset; not as hitherto in capturing savages, but in the animating pursuit of gold. With this view numbers formed establishments in the province. Hence arose the envy which subsisted between the Thaubatenos and Piratininganos, who never associated in their mining expeditions.

With the project of finding gold F. D. Paes penetrated the certams of Serro Frio, and arriving at the situation of Anhonhecanhuva, (which in the Indian idiom signifies “water that hides itself,”) at present called Sumidoiro, (“to swallow up,”) he dwelt there more than three years, undertaking various journeys during the time into Sabara Bussu, where he found, in the serra Negra, precious stones; which not satisfying him he retroceded as far as the serra Tucambira, (the crop or maw of the Tucano,) and from thence to the river Itamarindiba, (a small rolling stone,) where, from its having fish, he remained for some time. Although his party was diminished by the desertion of the major part in the serra Negra, impatient at their long stay there, he determined[260] to visit the lake Vupabussu, (Large Lake,) which he ultimately found, after a laborious search; and was also directed, by an Indian which he had taken, to the emerald mines. On the return of this certanista towards St. Paulo, he died near the river Velhas, where he fortunately met with, amongst other countrymen, Manuel de Borba Gato, his son-in-law, to whom he left the golden fruits of all his labours.

In the mean time D. Rodrigo de Castello Branco entered the country, with the appointment of superintendent of the mines, and wishing also to participate in the credit of discovering the emerald mines, on his arrival at the river Velhas sent to beg of M. de Borba Gato a part of the equipment and provisions left him by Paez. His refusal to comply with this request occasioned some menacing words to escape from Branco, which were sufficient to cause his assassination basely by a servant of Gato, to whom General A. de Sa offered a pardon, in the name of the King, on condition of his pointing out the copious mines of Sabara, discovered by him. Those conditions being fulfilled, the rank of lieutenant-general was unwisely and undeservedly granted to this instigator of murder.

The abundance of gold attracted a great number of Paulistas and Europeans to this province, between whom obstinate disputes arose, and a prolonged civil war.

M. N. Vianna, a native of the town of Vianna, was chief of the European party, who had appointed him governor of the new mines, when A. d’Albuquerque Coelho, the first general of the province of St. Paulo, with prudence and power, terminated, in 1710, the sanguinary dissensions between the disputants.

This province, whilst a comarca of that of St. Paulo, and before it had generals for governors, was various times visited by those of Rio de Janeiro, not only at the period of the disorders caused by the Paulistas and Europeans but anterior to the conclusion of the strifes that existed among the Piratininganos and Thaubatenos.

D. Lourenço d’Almeyda was the first general of the province, which appointment was bestowed upon him with much splendour in the church of Our Lady of Pilar, of Villa Rica, on the 18th of August, 1720. This province is now, comparatively speaking, tolerably populous, and divided into four comarcas.

Mountains.—It is the most mountainous country in the Brazil. The serra Mantiqueira, which is the most celebrated in the province, commences in the northern part of that of St. Paulo; from thence, running almost north-east, not without many windings, as far as the town of Barbacena, where it inclines[261] northward to the extremity of the province, varying its direction, elevation, and name, and extending many branches from both sides of greater or less extent and height. It bounds in part all the comarcas.

Rivers.—None of the other provinces are so abundant in water, and the greater part of its rivers have their origin in the Mantiqueira Serra, and their egress in general by four channels; two flowing eastward, namely the Doce and the Jequitinhonha; the St. Francisco northward; and the Rio Grande westward. The first irrigates the comarca of Villa Rica, the second that of Serro Frio, the third that of Sabara, and the last that of St. Joao d’el Rey.

Mineralogy.—Gold, platina, silver, and brass, iron, pewter, lead, mercury, antimony, bismuth, amianthus, talk, calcareous stone, granite, black jasper marked with white; amolar, or grindstone, fossil-coal, saltpetre; white, red, yellow, grey, and black argils; diamonds, rubies, emeralds, chrysolites, topazes, sapphires, aqua-marinas, agates, amethysts, petrifactions, (pingos d’agua,) crystals, flintstone, and pedra sabao, of a pearl colour, very compact and heavy, but easily worked; images, candlesticks, and vessels by the turner are made of this stone. It affords excellent chalk, and its very fine dust is sought after by travellers. Many profound caverns and excavations are met with, from whence immense quantities of gold have been extracted. Some rocks are perforated from one side to the other; others have disappeared entirely, in the course of withdrawing their rich contents. Many mountains frequently reverberate, demonstrating that they are fully charged with minerals. A great number of torrents have been diverted, for a greater or less space, from their natural beds, to facilitate the extraction of gold and diamonds.

Zoology.—All the species of Spanish domestic animals are bred here; the oxen and hog are the most numerous; the savage quadrupeds and birds met with in the adjoining provinces are common in this. The population principally consists of negroes, the property of the miner and the agriculturist. Indians exist only upon the eastern boundaries of the province. Many persons of all complexions are met with of the age of one hundred years.

Phytology.—The soil produces in abundance the first year; the second usually little, and in the third almost nothing; it is therefore requisite, according to the present mode of agriculture, to allow it to remain fallow for some years, until it is covered with a strong brushwood, which is then burnt down to form the first coat of manure.

Here are cultivated mandioca, tobacco, sugar, (the greater part of which is[262] distilled into spirit,) cotton, (part of which is manufactured into cloth,) wheat, rye, and a great quantity of white Indian corn, the dry flour of which is the ordinary bread; this corn, after the skin is taken off, dressed, and sweetened with sugar, is a dainty introduced into every banquet, and is called cangica. Also are grown potatoes, legumes, hortulans, coffee, and indigo. Amongst other medicinal plants, there are ipecacuanha, columbo root, liquorice, jalap, a species of spikenard upon the serra Caraça; vanilla, and the urucu dye tree. Amongst the resinous trees, are remarked the gum-copal, gum-mastick, benzoin, and angico. In some places are the storax, and the oil of cupahiba tree; in others the barbatimoes, its leaves nourishing the cantharidas, which is a lucrative branch of commerce. Some trees furnish fine bark, some ashes for the soap-house, others venom, with which fish are killed, and the upper bark of a tree which supplies the real quina, or Jesuit’s bark. There is a variety of the palm, and of trees affording fine timber for building. The cedar is common in some situations, and the Brazilian pine grows in the southern part, near the skirts of serras. There is a shrub differing from the myrica cerifera, the trunk and branches of which are always covered with a species of wax; also the verniz, or varnish tree, with which the Indians dye their cuyas (clay cups.) Almost all the fruit trees of Portugal are naturalized here, but none of them improve; the peach and quince alone fructify abundantly; from the latter, a large quantity of sweetmeats are made. The cajue, the jabuticaba, the araticu, and the mangaba fruits are common; also oranges, limes, bananas, pine-apples, and water-melons.

From this province are exported hides, skins of deer, and of other wild animals; coarse cotton and woollen cloth, tobacco, coffee, fruits, sugar, cheese, pork, pedra sabao, precious stones, saltpetre, marmalade, &c. The whole is conducted to the metropolis upon mules, which proceed in caravans of one hundred and more, divided into troops of seven, managed by one muleteer. Their return cargo consists of salt, and other dry and moist goods.

The treasury, besides the diamonds, fifths of gold, dizimos, duties upon negroes and goods introduced from the ports, of cattle, horses, and mules, entering from St. Paulo, receives a considerable revenue on the passage of rivers by bridges and barks, which are numerous.

In the year 1808, the circulation of gold dust, till then, the only circulating medium, was prohibited, and coins of the three current metals substituted.

Comarca of Villa Rica.

The comarca of Villa Rica, otherwise Oiro Preto, (Black Gold,) which is the least extensive, and the main part yet uncultivated, is bounded on the north by that of Serro Frio, from which it is separated by the river Doce; on the west by that of Rio das Mortes; on the south by the province of Rio de Janeiro; and on the east by that of Espirito Santo. It comprises one hundred and forty miles from east to west, and one hundred and twenty from north to south.

Mountains.—The serra of Oiro Preto, which is a portion of the Mantiqueira, its most elevated head, called Itaculume, (the Child of Stone,) is considered the highest in the province. The serra of Oiro Branco, (White Gold,) to the south of the preceding, the Serra Negra, with mines of iron, and the Serra Lappa are both to the north of the capital. Nearly thirty miles north of Marianna is the celebrated Serra Caraça, so called from having a portion similar to an enormous physiognomy. It is a dismemberment of the grand cordillera, with near fifty miles of circuit at its base, being steep and craggy all around. On a plain about three miles square, in a broken part of its summit, there is a species of monastery, where various hermits dwell, some drawn thither by devotion, and others from persecution; their habit is a black cassock. They[264] sustain themselves upon charity, and the productions of the adjacent land, where they raise cattle and rye. The edifice is of stone; the church of elegant architecture, and dedicated to Our Lady May dos Homens (Mother of Men). In the garden there are various European fruit trees, such as the apple, pear, plum, cherry, quince, chestnut, olive, and walnut; also trees from the oak to the yellow broom and furze. The land is watered by various rivulets, which after uniting flow to the Percicaba. In its vicinity is the serra of Itaubira, which terminates in two rocky pyramids. Between the river Doce and the Parahiba, there is an extensive branch of the Mantiqueira serra, from whence emanate many torrents; the Serra Frecheira is the name of a portion.

Rivers.—The Doce, which is the largest of the comarca, has its origin in the serra of Mantiqueira. After flowing for a considerable space to the north-north-east, under the name of Chopoto, it receives the Piranga, which runs from the serra of Oiro Branco; afterwards the Guallacho, formed by two streams of the same name distinguished by the appellations of north and south, and which issue from the serra of Oiro Preto. At this confluence it inclines to the east, and gathers the Bombaca and the Percicaba, which flow from the west, and have their sources in the Serra Lapa. Here it takes the name by which it enters the ocean. A little lower it is united also on the left, by the considerable river St. Antonio, which comes from the north-west, traversing an extensive territory, abounding mainly in cattle. Of the streams which form it, some descend from the Serra Lapa, others from Serro Frio. Ten miles further, it is joined on the same side by the Corrente, which flows from Serro Frio, with more than one hundred miles of course. Thirty miles lower, it receives the large Sassuhy, whose heads emanate from the serras of Serro Frio and Esmeraldas; its margins are thinly inhabited. After it follows the Laranjeiras, in the same direction, between woods abounding with wild beasts and savages. The Cuyate, which runs north-east, is the largest of those which enter it on the right; its mouth is a little below the preceding, and it gives the name to an interior district inhabited by Indians. The Manhuassu, (which some say is larger than Cuyate,) after flowing through large woods north-eastward, and bounding the certam of Cuyate, is lost in the Doce, a little above the Escadinhas.

Amongst others, the Doce has four remarkable falls: Escura, a little below the mouth of the Percicaba; Magoaris, a short way below the Corrente; Ibiturunas, a short distance above the Sassuhy; and Inferno, between the confluences of the Cuyate and the Manhuassu. The adjacent territory of this fine river is mostly of great fertility; in some places the root of the mandioca grows to a prodigious[265] size. Independently of the above obstacles, the Doce is navigable for a great extent, and I was assured by an ouvidor, having a neighbouring jurisdiction, that no very great expenditure on the part of the government would render it the most important and certainly the best medium of transit for the produce of the interior districts of Brazil. The Maquipoo is one of its first tributaries received on the right, and enters a little above the mouth of the Bombaca.

The Preto originates in the serra Ititiaya, a branch of the Mantiqueira range, and runs eastward through the territory of the Ararys, bounding the province, until it enters the Parahibuna, which latter rises near the Chopoto, and flows into the Parahiba.

The Pomba, which as has been observed, is a tributary of the Parahiba, waters an extensive tract on the southern part of this comarca, and passes near the parish of St. Manuel, whose inhabitants are Coroado and Crapo Indians, with some whites, principally raising Indian corn, legumes, some sugar, and numerous hogs. The fertility of the country, with the navigation of the river, promises it a future increase. Its church is forty miles from the mouth of the river.

Villa Rica, antecedently Oiro Preto, was created a town in 1711, and is large, populous, abundant, and flourishing. It is the capital of the province, and the residence of the governor, at present Don Manuel de Portugal e Castro; likewise of the ouvidor of the comarca, who holds other offices, serving also as crown judge with jurisdiction over the whole province. It has a Juiz de Fora, who is also attorney-general; a vicar-general, and professors, I had almost forgot royal, of primitive letters, Latin, and philosophy. This town is ill situated at the southern base of the serra of Oiro Preto, amongst gloomy rocks, upon very uneven ground, and frequently covered with fogs, which are said to cause amongst the inhabitants continued colds or defluxions from the head. There is a house of misericordia, founded by G. F. d’Andrade, in virtue of a law of the 16th April, 1738; a smelting house; a junta of the treasury, composed of four deputies, the ouvidor of the comarca, the attorney-general, the general treasurer, and the auditor, with the governor as president. It has ten chapels, of the Lord Bom Fim, Almas, St. Anna, St. Joam, &c.; besides three Terceira orders of St. Francisco d’Assis, Carmo, and St. Francisco de Paula, almost all of which, with four bridges, are of stone. The palace, military quarters, and municipal house, are considered to be handsome; the latter has an annual revenue of about fifteen thousand crusades. It has a fort with some pieces of ordnance, which are fired occasionally on holidays; fourteen[266] fountains of crystalline water, and a hospital. Its inhabitants, principally miners and dealers, live in two parishes, called Our Lady of Pilar and Conceiçao. This town is two hundred and thirty miles north-north-west of Rio de Janeiro.

There are in Villa Rica twenty-five judicial appointments. The smelting house has sixteen official situations; the office of Intendente, which afforded annually five thousand two hundred and fifty crusades, independently of perquisites, has been discontinued here as well as in all similar establishments in the Brazil. In the treasury, besides the deputies already mentioned, there are sixteen other situations, the most lucrative of which is the Escrivao Contador, (the auditor of the treasury,) having three thousand crusades annually; and the smallest is that of Continuo, (a sergeant, or beadle,) not having more than one hundred and fifty milreas (about thirty-seven pounds.) There is also a tribunal entitled “Junta of the conquest and civilization of the Indians and navigation of the river Doce,” established in 1808. Its principal object is to promote agriculture upon the margins of that river, which, however, advances very slowly.

The inhabitants of Villa Rica, and of six parishes within its district, form two regiments of auxiliary cavalry, fourteen companies of whites, seven of mulattoes, and four of free blacks.

Eight miles to the west of Villa Rica is the arraial and freguezia of St. Bartholomew, famous for the large quantity of marmalade that is exported from it.

Ten miles to the north-west of Villa Rica is the freguezia or parish of Our Lady of Nazareth da Cachoeira, where the governors have a house of recreation, occasionally passing some days there in the amusement of shooting deer and partridges.

Twenty miles to the south-east of Villa Rica is the considerable arraial of Piranga, situated near the river of the same name, with a church of the Lady of Conceiçao, and a chapel of Rozario. The inhabitants cultivate the necessaries of life, and a large quantity of tobacco, to which the soil is very favourable.

In the vicinity of the river Piranga, within the district of the parish of St. Antonio d’Itaberava to the south of Villa Rica, is the large arraial of Catas Altas da Noruega, with a chapel of St. Gonçalo.

Marianna, originally the arraial of Carmo, until 1711, when John V. bestowed upon it a register of royal duties, and the name of Villa Leal do Carmo, (Loyal Town of Carmo.) It was created an episcopal city in 1745, by the same monarch, with the name of his consort. It is small, well supplied, and[267] situated in a gently elevated country, near the right margin of the Ribeiro, or stream of Carmo, with the chapels of Our Lady of Rozario, St. Pedro, Santa Anna, St. Gonçalo, St. Francisco, for the mulattoes, and Mercez, for the creolian blacks; also two Terceira orders of Carmo and St. Francisco, whose chapel is elegant. There are two squares, and seven fountains of good water. The streets are paved, and the houses of stone. The municipal house is one of the best structures, and has water within it; the cathedral, dedicated to the Lady of Assumpçao, is more elegant than solid. The episcopal palace is handsome; the seminary spacious, the chapter is composed of fourteen canons, including the dignitaries of archdeacon, archpriest, chanter, and treasurer-mor, with whom twelve chaplains, and four young choristers officiate. The Juiz de Fora presides over the orphans and the senate, which has eleven thousand crusades of annual revenue. He fills other situations, and has, besides, twenty public officers under his inspection. All the inhabitants of Marianna are parishioners of the cathedral, and, with those of its surrounding twelve parishes, form two regiments of cavalry, twenty companies of infantry, (all whites,) ten of mulattoes, and five of free blacks. This city is eight miles east-north-east of Villa Rica; the intervening road is paved in parts, and bordered with many houses, having near it two arraials, and passes three stone bridges.

Eight miles to the north-east of Marianna, near the arraial of Antonio Pereira, (its founder,) in a rock at the end of a delightful valley, is a grotto formed by nature, and converted into a small chapel, dedicated to the Lady of Lapa, where every Sunday mass is chanted, and a festival takes place on the 15th of August. The roof, which is of calcareous stone, is overspread with stalactites, or crystallizations formed by the filtration of the water.

Fifteen miles north of the same city is the arraial and parish of Inficionado, which derived its name from the circumstance of the refuse of gold in melting being at first excellent, and becoming afterwards inferior, so that it acquired the name of Oiro Inficionado, (Infected Gold.) It is the native country of the poet, who was the author of the poem of Caramuru, “the Man of Fire,” a conspicuous character in the history of Bahia. Its church is dedicated to the Lady of Nazareth. The inhabitants raise the necessaries of life and cattle, and are miners.

Catas Altas de Matto Dentro, (profound searchings within the matto, or woods,) formerly a large and flourishing arraial, with a church of the Lady of Conceiçao, has fallen into decay with the decrease of gold. The deep mines, wrought for the extraction of gold, were the origin of its name. It is about[268] eight miles from the preceding, and the inhabitants are agriculturists, including breeders of cattle and miners.

Nine miles from Catas Altas is the large, flourishing, and commercial arraial of St. Barbara, near the stream of the same name, having various religious structures, and promising considerable augmentation. The occupations of its inhabitants are similar to that of the last place.

Ten miles from St. Barbara is the arraial of Cocaes, with rich mines of gold, in the district of the parish of St. Joao do Morro Grande.

Comarca of Rio das Mortes.

The comarca of Rio das Mortes, so called from the river which washes it, and equally known by the name of its head town, St. Joao d’el Rey, is bounded on the east by the comarca of Villa Rica; on the north by that of Sabara, from which it is separated by the serra Negra, and by the rivers Lambary and Andayha; on the west by the provinces of Goyaz and St. Paulo; and on the south by the latter and that of Rio de Janeiro. It is computed to comprise one hundred and seventy square miles. This comarca has many portions of land appropriated to the culture of mandioca, Indian corn, and legumes; likewise to plantations of sugar and tobacco, which are the most lucrative articles of exportation; in some places the cotton tree prospers, and in some of the southern districts considerable quantities of rye and wheat are raised. Cows are generally abundant, also sheep and hogs. Pork and cheese are important branches of export. There are auriferous grounds, which occupy a great many people in the working of them.

Mountains.—The principal are the serra of Lenheiro, in the vicinity of the town of St. Joao d’el Rey; of St. Joze, near the town of that name; of Lopo, not far from Cabo Verde; of Assumpçao, on the western part, between the Rio Grande and the Pardo; of Parida, which serves as a limit on the same side from the Rio Grande northward. In the southern part there is the extensive Mantiqueira, in parts bare and rocky, in others covered with wood. It contains the Cachineze Indians, who are inconsiderable in number, stinted in growth, and timorous, and confine their hostility to robbing the neighbouring parishes of some cattle. The serra of Juruoca, which is a branch of the preceding, takes the name of a stone called ayuru, “parrot,” and oca, “stone,” and which stands upon it where there is a cataract seventy yards in height. The serra of Carrancas is situated between the Rio Grande and Verde. The serra of Letras, (or Letters,) a branch of the preceding, derives its name from[269] a species of hieroglyphic, a natural curiosity, which is observed in the interior of a vast and curious cave, formed of divers eruptions or projections of a sandy stone, some of considerable elasticity with various kinds of plants which grow there. The pretended letters, owing their origin to ferruginous particles, are rude and illegible, and no more than a superstitious hierography, arising in the ignorance of the people, who attribute them to the hand of the apostle St. Thomas. Near it there is a hermitage dedicated to the same apostle. The serra of Vigia, so called from having served for a long time as a watch-tower to the sentinels of a band of runaway negroes, who had established themselves in that district, is twenty miles distant from St. Joao d’el Rey. The serra Cachambu is between the river Jacare and the Rio Grande.

Rivers.—The Rio Grande, the largest of the comarca, dividing it into southern and northern, and having its origin upon the serra Juruoca, after gathering many small streams, flows at first northward, then north-west for a considerable space, and receives the large river Das Mortes, which rises in the serra of Oiro Branco, from whence it runs west, becoming large with the currents that join it by both margins. From this confluence, which is about seventy miles west of the town of St. Joao d’el Rey, the Rio Grande continues its course westward, increasing much to the boundary of the province, where it begins to serve as a limit between the provinces of Goyaz and St. Paulo; it is stored with a variety of fish.

The Sapucahy flows from the serra Mantiqueira, has numerous windings, and is enlarged by many other rivers, the largest of which is the Verde, that rises near the source of the Rio Grande, and, after having watered an extensive territory, pastured by large herds of cattle, runs north-west, and irrigates a similarly stocked and larger country in the province of St. Paulo, where it has its junction with the preceding.

Near the margin, and not far from the origin of the Mozambo, a branch of the Sapucahy, there are several wells of sulphureous water, some warmer than others, which have been found beneficial in certain diseases; and between the plains of the river Verde and Baepondy, near a rivulet which falls into the Verde, there are various mineral and vitriolic waters.

In this comarca originate the Pardo and Jaguary, which wash the northern part of the province of St. Paulo, the Paraupeba, Para, Lambary, Bambuhy, and the St. Francisco, which receives them: these are the principal rivers in the northern part.

The Camanducaya is a branch of the Sapucahy. The Jacuhy, Jacare, and[270] Capivary are discharged into the Rio Grande, below the confluence of Das Mortes. The Peixe and the small Das Mortes enter the large Das Mortes; the latter twenty miles below St. Joao d’el Rey, and the other still further. The doirado, mandin, and pracanjuba are the best fish in those rivers.

St. Joao d’el Rey, antecedently Rio das Mortes, is the head town of the comarca, and the residence of its ouvidor, who acts in other situations, and is also crown judge. It is one of the largest, and the most abundant places in the province, and is agreeably seated in a flat country, about two miles from the river that gave it the primitive name till 1712, when John V. gave it the present name and the title of a town. It has a church of the Lady of Pilar; two chapels dedicated to the Lady of Dores and Mercez; one to St. Pedro; others to St. Antonio, St. Caetano, St. Francisco, administered by the blacks; two Terceira orders of the Lady of Carmo and St. Francisco. The chapel of the latter is the finest in the whole province, and stands upon a large praca, or square. It has also an hospital, and two bridges of stone over the small channel of Tijuco, which divides the town into two portions; a Juiz de Fora, who is also head of the orphan establishment; an attorney general; a royal professor of Latin; a vicar-foraneo; and a smelting-house, with the same appointments as that of Villa Rica, excepting the abridor dos cunhos, (engraver of coins.) The judicial appointments are also the same.

This town has tolerably good houses, with paved streets. All the necessaries of life of the country are cheap. There are here white tangerina oranges, which are not met with in any other part. The road, which leads to the Rio das Mortes, upon which there is another large bridge of wood, is bordered by quintas, or country houses. About the middle of this interval is the arraial of Matozinhos, with a chapel of Espirito Santo. In its suburbs are cultivated the cane, much Indian corn, some rye, a little mandioca, and cotton; and at a greater distance cattle are bred. Mining is the general occupation.

There are twelve chapels in its extensive environs, generally provided with chaplains, who are, with as many more coadjutors of the vicar, privileged to administer the sacraments in his jurisdiction. This town is nearly eighty miles to the south-west of Villa Rica, about the same distance south-south-west from Sabara, and upwards of two hundred north-west of Rio de Janeiro.

Eight miles to the north-north-west of St. Joao d’el Rey, and near the right margin of the Rio das Mortes, is the middling town of St. Joze, with the handsomest church in the province, dedicated to St. Antonio, a chapel of the Lady Rozario, and another of St. Joao Evangelista: it abounds with the necessaries[271] of life, and is provided with good water. The inhabitants, and those of its wide district, who are well supplied with Catholic places of worship, raise much Indian corn, some barley, a diversity of fruits, cattle, and numerous herds of hogs, its principal riches. Some are miners.

Barbacena is a middling town, having a beautiful aspect, well situated in the proximity of the serra Mantiqueira, and three miles from the Das Mortes, with a church of the Lady of Piedade, a chapel of St. Francisco de Paula, two of the Lady of Rozario and Boa Morte. In its environs is the Brazilian pine; and the olive tree fructifies in some parts. The inhabitants raise cattle, and cultivate the most substantial lands with the most useful articles; some search for gold, and others are occupied in various branches of industry, with advantage to the place. It is thirty-five miles east-south-east of St. Joao d’el Rey, and fifty south-south-west of Villa Rica.

Quelluz, otherwise Carijos, is a town finely situated about thirty miles south-south-west of Villa Rica, fifty north-east of St. Joao d’el Rey, and three from the Congonhas, near the skirt of the serra of Oiro Branco. It has a church of Our Lady of Conceiçao, two hermitages of St. Antonio and Carmo. Cattle is the wealth of its inhabitants.

Tamandua is a middling town between two small streams, which are branches of the Lambary. It is well supplied with the provisions of the country, and has a church of St. Bento, two chapels of Our Lady of Mercez and Rozario, another of St. Francisco de Paula, with a fraternity, whose brothers enjoy extraordinary privileges. It is nearly ninety miles west of Villa Rica, fifty north-west of St. Joao d’el Rey, seventy south of Pitangui, and seventy west-north-west of Sabara. The inhabitants and those of its district are cattle breeders, farmers, and miners.

Campanha, properly the town of Princeza da Beira, is in a state of mediocrity, situated in a plain twelve miles from the Verde, with a church of St. Antonio do Valle de Piedade, (St. Anthony of the Valley of Piety,) two chapels of the Lady of Rozario and Dores, one of St. Sebastiao, and another of St. Francisco de Paula, with a brotherhood subject to the town of Tamandua. It has a Juiz de Fora, who is head of the orphans, a royal professor of Latin, and a vicar, and is nearly eighty miles south-west of St. Joao d’el Rey, and one hundred and fifty south of Pitangui. The inhabitants and those of its environs are miners, farmers of rye, wheat, Indian corn, tobacco, some mandioca, cotton, and sugar, and raise many cattle and hogs. In some situations are cultivated flax; and generally coarse woollens and cottons are manufactured.

St. Maria de Baepondy is yet a small town. The church is dedicated to Our Lady of Conceiçao, and the wealth of its inhabitants consists in tobacco, for which the soil is well adapted. It is fifty miles east of Campanha, and was created a town by a law of the 19th of July, 1814, when to its civil government were added two ordinary judges, one of orphans, three magistrates, two regulators of the market, two public scriveners, judicial and notarial, the first filling also the offices of escrivao of the town house, excise, and market, the other the office of escrivao of the orphans; there is also an alcaide and his escrivao.

St. Carlos de Jacuhy is situated near the origin of the river which lends it the name, has a church of the Lady of Conceiçao, and was created a town by the same law as Baepondy, with the same civil officers, to whom the parishioners of Cabo Verde became subject. It is near the boundary of the province of St. Paulo, and is abundant in cattle.

In this comarca are the following parishes:—St. Anna de Sapocahy, twenty-five miles from the river of the same name; the inhabitants cultivate legumes and are gold miners. Conceiçao de Camanducaya, fifteen to the right of the Jaguary; it exports hides. Carmo de Cabo Verde, near the river from which it takes the name; its parishioners cultivate cotton, some wheat, are miners, and export hides. St. Anna d’Itajuba, where wheat, rye, and Indian corn are cultivated. Pouzo-Alegre, whose inhabitants are agriculturists. St. Pedro d’Alcantara Oiro Fino, where there are hot springs; it is fifty miles from the town of Bragança, and cattle and wheat are its productions. Conceiçao das Laoras do Funil, sixty miles from St. Joao d’ el Rey; the inhabitants are agriculturists. Conceiçao de Pouzo Alto, fifty miles from the town of Campanha, where cotton and wheat are raised. Conceiçao da Juruoca St. Gonçalo, formerly a large and flourishing arraial, near twenty miles from Campanha; the inhabitants are miners and agriculturists.

Comarca of Sabara.

This comarca is bounded on the north by the province of Pernambuco; on the west by that of Goyaz; on the south by the comarca of Rio das Mortes; and on the east by that of Serro Frio. It is three hundred and fifty miles from north to south, and more than two hundred and ten from east to west. It is watered by many rivers, the whole tributary to the St. Francisco, which traverses its southern part and separates it on the north from the comarca of Serro Frio. It abounds in pasturage and large herds of cattle, and has mines[273] of various metals, diamonds, and other precious stones. It produces Indian corn, mandioca, rice, sugar, tobacco, legumes, cotton, various fruits, and in many parts plenty of game.

Mountains.—The serras of Marcella, Christaes, and Tabatinga, are the most elevated portions of the cordillera which limit it on the west. The serra of Jinipapo is in the vicinity of the confluence of the river Velhas; the serras Quatys and Araras in the centre of the western part. The serra Negra separates it from the comarca of Rio das Mortes for a considerable space, and is almost entirely of stone, having mines of good gold. The serra Lapa follows that of Oiro Preto to the north. The serra of Piedade extends nearly northward. Those of Saudade and Itucambira run north and south for a great extent, and at a considerable distance from the river Velhas, serving as limits between this comarca and that of Serro Frio.

Rivers and Lakes.—The river St. Francisco, which is the largest of the province, and receives a great part of its other rivers, rises in the vicinity of the serra of Canastra. After flowing a considerable space towards the north-east and gathering various small streams on both sides, it receives on the left the Bambuhy, which flows from the boundary and brings with it the Perdiçao, that originates in the serra Marcella: this is the first considerable stream that enlarges the St. Francisco. Twenty-eight miles lower it is joined on the right by the Lambary, which waters the extensive district of the town of Tamandua; as much further to the north it receives on the left the Marmellada, that flows from the serra Quatys. Eighteen miles lower the considerable river Para is incorporated with it, after running more than one hundred and forty miles from the south-east and passing the town of Pitangui. The Paraupeba follows, whose course is not less than two hundred and ten miles, its origin being near the town of Quelluz. The country through which it flows abounds with cattle.

Twenty-five miles below the confluence of the Paraupeba is that of the Andaya, which comes from the boundary, running along an extensive and moderately elevated cordillera, (whose southern portion is called Saudade and the northern Quatys,) and bringing with it the Funchal. This river, one hundred miles long, abounds with precious stones, amongst which there are many diamonds.

A little lower the Borrachuda, discharged also on the left, is not much inferior to the preceding, and runs like it along the western side of a cordillera called the serra Araras, which is parallel with the former.

Eighteen miles below, the considerable Abayte discharges itself on the same side, and is formed by two streams of the same name, that unite much above its mouth, whose origins are more than one hundred miles distant from each other; one comes from the south-west, the other from the north-west, and brings the waters of the small river Chumbo, that passes the base of a morro where there is a rich mine of lead, from which it takes the name. The intervening territory of the origins of the Abaytes is a wood, denominated the Matta da Corda, which invites the agriculturist, having various intervals of campinhas, where numerous herds of cattle graze, their owners living at a great distance.

Fifty miles further is the grand cataract of Pirapora, and fifteen beyond it the confluence of the large river Das Velhas, (Old Women,) originally Guaycuhy, which in the language of the aborigines signifies the same, and whose origin is in the vicinity of St. Bartholomew, six miles to the west of Villa Rica. It has a great number of falls, windings, and more than two hundred miles of course. The Parauna, the Pardo, and the Curmatahy, which unite with it on the right, and the Bicudo on the left, are its largest tributaries.

A little lower, the St. Francisco receives on the right the Jequetahy and the Pacuhy. Their adjacent lands are pastured by large cattle. Further on, the large Paracatu enters it on the left, the principal heads of which are the Escuro and the Prata, incorporated with the Arrependidos, which limits for some distance the two provinces. These rivers unite themselves a few leagues above the Corrego Rico, (Rich Channel) that passes near the town of Paracatu. Here it takes this name. Its largest tributary is the Preto, which issues from lake Feia, near the arraial of Coiros, in the province of Goyaz, and after having gathered a great number of small streams, joins the Paracatu on the left, almost at an equal distance from the confluence where it takes and that where it loses the name. A little below the Preto, on the opposite side, the Paracatu receives the Sonno, rich in precious stones, which brings the waters of the Almas, that joins it on the left. The Paracatu is navigable to a little below the Corrego Rico, and its crystalline waters are so light, that they float a considerable way above those of the river which receives them. Its lateral lands are abundant in cattle.

Twenty miles to the north, the St. Francisco receives, on the same side, the large Urucuya, navigable for a considerable distance. It originates on the boundary of Goyaz, is narrow and deep, having clear waters, which flow with[275] such rapidity, that, on entering the St. Francisco, they at all times roll across, sensibly affecting the lands of its eastern margin. The St. Rita, joining on the right, and the Claro on the left, are its principal tributaries, both traversing sterile lands possessing cattle.

It is followed by the Acary, Pardo, Pandeiro, Salgado, Pindahyba, Itacaramby, and the Japore, the whole entering by the western margin. The Pandeiro has fine water, an extensive course, and traverses large woods of excellent timber with many cedars, where numerous colonies might be advantageously established, for the cultivation of their fertile soils.

A few leagues below the Japore, the important river Verde enters on the eastern side; and about the same distance further, the Carinhenha, which is large and navigable for a considerable extent. It rises in the chapadas of Santa Maria, near the limits of Goyaz; its crystalline waters, having a rapid current, flow for a considerable way without mixing with those of the St. Francisco after entering it.

We will finish the description of the noble St. Francisco when we treat upon the province of Pernambuco, which is bounded by this river from hence to the ocean. This very extensive river, as well as those mentioned which enlarge it, abound with fish, of which the doirado, sorrubin, mandin, and piranha, are the best.

Near the right margin of the St. Francisco, and eighteen miles below the confluence of the Bambuhy, is the lake Feia, of a circular form, about three hundred yards in diameter, of dark green water, and inhabited by the sucury and sucuriu snakes, and the alligator. No reptile or even bird approaches to drink its waters. About two miles to the north, there is another called Lake Verde, narrow, six miles long, and the haunt of the same horrible creatures. Both lakes are discharged into the St. Francisco. The sucuriu and sucury differ only in colour; the first is of a blackish hue, and the other grey: they have two large claws, or talons, near the extremity of the tail, with which they secure themselves to roots or the points of stones under the water, when they wish to seize any animal. The teeth are sharp pointed, and inclined towards the gorge, so that the prisoner cannot escape, although the monster wished to withdraw its hold. Sucurys have been killed twenty yards long. These snakes are supposed to be a species of the sucuriuba of other provinces.

Villa Real do Sabara, (Royal Town of Sabara) is the head of the comarca, and ordinary residence of its ouvidor, who also acts in other situations. It[276] stands near the right margin of the Velhas, where this river receives the small stream that affords the town’s name, in a low situation, surrounded with mountains, and is large, flourishing, well supplied with meat, fish, and the common necessaries peculiar to the country. It has a church of the Lady of Conceiçao, a chapel of Our Lady of O, another of Rozario, and a numerous fraternity of blacks, two Terceira orders of Carmo and St. Francisco. There is a Juiz de Fora, who is head of the orphan establishment; a vicar; the usual professors of the first letters and Latin; and a smelting house for gold, the expenses of which are forty thousand crusades annually, having the same appointments as that of Villa Rica, with the exception of the engraver of stamps for coining, and the third founder. This town has a good fountain of excellent water in the street of Caquende, and four entrances from the cardinal points, all but one having wooden bridges; the eastern and southern are over the Sabara. The judicial officers are the same here as in the capital of the province; the annual revenue of the camara, or municipal body, is nine thousand crusades. The heat is here more intense in the hot months than in any other povoaçao in the province, arising, most probably, from its reflexion from the circumjacent mountains. A register for receiving the royal duties was, in 1712, established in this place, which is thirty-five miles north-north-west of Marianna, seventy north-east of Tamandua, near one hundred south-west of Villa do Principe, and seventy-five north-north-east of St. Joao d’ el Rey. The inhabitants, and those of six parishes within its district, (viz. Rio das Pedras, St. Antonio, Curral d’ el Rey, St. Luzia, Congonhas, and Rapozos,) comprising altogether forty-six thousand three hundred persons, are miners and farmers, and form two regiments of cavalry, one with eleven, and the other with eight companies, all whites; twenty companies of infantry; a regiment of eleven companies of mulattoes; and another of seven companies of forro, or free blacks. In the year 1788, the population of Sabara consisted of seven thousand six hundred and fifty-six persons, and eight hundred and fifty houses. In 1819, its inhabitants did not exceed nine thousand three hundred and forty-seven.

This comarca, which is nearly as large as England, does not, exclusive of the district of Paracatu, contain more than one hundred and thirteen thousand, three hundred and sixty-four souls. Senhor Gama, who was recently its ouvidor or governor, collected materials, during his triennial government, for a map of the comarca, which he presented to the minister of state at Rio de Janeiro, in expectation that his labours would at least have received some approbation; but the subject was treated with indifference. Senhor Gama subsequently made [277]me a present of the map, an exact copy of which is here introduced. The signal of a standard upon the map points out those places rich in diamonds, which, by a strange policy, are rigidly preserved untouched as a resource for the government; and whenever they are worked, if the proceedings are conducted upon the same principle as the diamond grounds of Tijuco, will certainly not be a source of much revenue to the state.

Senhor Gama related a circumstance which occurred during his ouvidorship here, that affords a tolerably strong evidence of the deep subtilty practised by some, at least, of the Brazilian holy fathers, for their personal benefit. A female, residing at no great distance from Sabara, whose mind was darkened by bigotry, and who was particularly rigid in all religious observances, no saint day passing without her exhibiting the utmost devotion, mortified herself in a peculiar degree on all occasions of fasting, and during Lent always refrained from eating, with such resolution, that she acquired the honour of being considered a saint. So strongly was her mind influenced by this delusion, that she communicated her self-working inspirations to two or three padres, who lived near. They immediately inflamed her wild imagination by their countenance, and gave public weight to the notion, by affirming that her soul would ascend to heaven on a certain day. Contributions were already talked of for forming an establishment to be dedicated to Santa Harmonica, the name of the female. The priests were, of course, to have the administration of the funds. Good Friday was the appointed day for the consummation of this important event. The machinery hitherto worked well, and her exhausted appearance, from continued fasting, warranted the conclusion that her dissolution was near. It was a subject of general interest, and being introduced where the ouvidor was present on the evening preceding the intended conclusion of the drama, he stated that he had not faith in any thing so ridiculous; and in the event of the female’s death, he would summon a species of inquest to be held upon the body. A friend or coadjutor of the priests was present: he left the party and hastened on horseback to communicate this determination of the ouvidor to the holy brothers. An effect very contrary to the expectation of her devoted worshippers was thus produced. She speedily recovered from her saintly indisposition, and remains, if not in mental, at least in bodily health to this day. It was ascertained to have been the intention of these priests, founded on the wicked purpose of deriving advantages from the contemplated establishment of Santa Harmonica, to have produced, by some means, a gradual exhaustion of life by the appointed time.

About twelve miles from Sabara there is a lake, two miles long and nearly one in width, whose crystalline and tepid waters, having been an antidote in many diseases, acquired it the name of the Holy Lake. In its centre there are various springs; and when not agitated, its surface is covered with a pellicle or thin skin of the colour of mercury, which disappears by blowing upon it, and leaves the lips silvered over of those who drink it. It is discharged at the northern extremity by an outlet into the river Velhas, which is five miles distant.

Fifteen miles north of Sabara, and a mile from the Velhas, is the large and flourishing freguezia or parish of Santa Luzia, ornamented with five Catholic temples, and whose inhabitants, amounting to thirteen thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven, are well supplied with its produce of agriculture, mines, and cattle.

Villa Nova da Raynha, created a town in 1714, but better known by its primitive name of Caethe, which in the Brazilian language signifies an impervious wood, is a middling place, well and agreeably situated in plain ground, near a small stream, ornamented with a handsome church dedicated to the Lord of Bom Successo, a chapel of the Lady of Rozario, and another of St. Francisco. There are fifteen judicial appointments here. The revenue of the camara is eight thousand crusades. The inhabitants, amounting to five thousand two hundred and seventy-one, are miners, breeders of cattle, and agriculturists; they respire a salubrious air, raise various European fruits, and form, with the three parishes of St. Miguel, St. Barbara, and St. Joao de Morro Grande, containing twenty-nine thousand inhabitants, seventeen companies of white militia, seven of mulattoes, and some squadrons of free blacks. It is twelve miles east-south-east of Sabara, and has in its suburbs good argils and potteries.

Pitangui is in a state of mediocrity, upon the right margin of the Para, three miles below the confluence of the St. Joao, and is well supplied with fish, meat, and all the agricultural productions of the country. It was erected into a town in 1715, has two hermitages, and a church of the Lady of Pilar; a Juiz de Fora, and an escrivao of the conductors of gold. The camara has three thousand crusades of revenue. This town is one hundred miles north of St. Joao d’el Rey, and nearly eighty west-north-west of Sabara. Its inhabitants, amounting to nineteen thousand eight hundred and sixty-one, and those of its widely extending district, (including only one other parish, Nossa Senhora das Dores, with one thousand four hundred and nineteen persons,) raise large quantities of cattle, horses, hogs, and sheep, and have extensive plantations of the cotton tree and[279] cane, the rum from which is considered the best of the province. A rich mine of gold occasioned numerous disputes and deaths amongst its first dwellers, who were Paulista miners. There was amongst them one D. R. do Prado, who gratified his vile and avaricious feelings, by assassinating even those who did not offend him; such was the lawless state in which those primitive mining settlements were involved.

Paracatu do Principe is a middling town, famous for its mines, well and pleasantly situated upon an elevated plain, with straight and paved streets, having a church dedicated to St. Antonio da Manga, three hermitages of Our Lady of Abbadia, Amparo, and Rozario, another of St. Anna, and two good fountains. The houses are built of timber and earth, and include a royal school for Latin. This town is one hundred and forty miles from the St. Francisco, and about half a mile from the small stream of Corgo Rica, which after forty miles of course enters the Paracatu on the left, near the port of Bezerra. It has decayed much from its first flourishing condition; the people are peaceable, but indolent. Cattle and the produce of mines constitutes what wealth there is amongst them. The vine bears fruit in perfection twice a year. The pine-apple and orange are abundant and excellent. Around this place are an abundance of partridges, deer, and other game. The gold has a fine appearance, but below the proper degree of purity is of difficult extraction for want of water, and is not allowed to be searched for at any great distance. Diamonds having appeared in various parts is the reason of the working of mines being restricted to a few leagues round the town, upon which circuit are detachments to prevent the prescribed limits being passed for the purpose of mining. The district of the town comprises the main portion of the comarca, that is to say, all the territory lying westward of the river St. Francisco, from the Carynhenha to the Abayte. Near the confluence of the latter is the passage from Villa Rica to Goyaz, called Porto Real.

In 1744, when there was no other colony to the west of the St. Francisco but St. Romao, these mines were discovered, and made known to Gomez Freyre d’Andrade, governor of Rio de Janeiro, who ordered the country to be divided according to the prevailing custom. These mines attracted a great concourse of people here, and their affluence in gold led to the concurrence of a numerous party in the purpose of expelling the Indians, whom they at once drove from this extensive district. The inhabitants of Paracatu, and those of the parishes of its vast circuit, constitute one regiment of cavalry, seven companies of whites, three of mulattoes, and two of free blacks.

On the left margin of the river St. Francisco, almost at an equal distance between the mouths of the Urucuya and Paracatu, is the considerable arraial and parish of St. Romao, with a church dedicated to St. Antonio da Manga, a chapel of Our Lady of Rozario, and another of St. Francisco. It is the head of the julgado, with much commerce, being the depositary of various productions of the country, and of a large quantity of salt, which is conveyed by barks and canoes from the salterns of Pilao Arcado and its vicinity. The river at its greatest floods enters the streets of this place. Its inhabitants, even the females, are passionately fond of gambling. Melons and water-melons are very abundant.

The other parishes of the district of Paracatu are St. Anna dos Alegres, near the mouth of the river Catinga, a little above the river Somno; the Lady of Penha, near the Urucuya, a day’s voyage from the St. Francisco; Carynhenha, Andayha, and the Lady of Amparo do Salgado, with a chapel of Our Lady of Rozario, which is a flourishing arraial, and promising a considerable increase. It is five miles from the St. Francisco. The inhabitants raise cattle, sugar cane, and the cotton tree.

There is yet within this comarca the arraial and julgado of St. Antonio do Curvello, otherwise Papagayo, well situated in a plain, refreshed with salubrious breezes, and near a small stream, which falls into the Velhas on the left. This is almost eighty miles from Sabara. The inhabitants of the julgado, amounting to eleven thousand five hundred and thirteen, are agriculturists and cattle breeders.

In June, 1815, the comarca of Sabara was divided into two, the St. Francisco serving as a medium limit to them. The northern, western, and southern limits of the new comarca are the same which till then constituted the circuit of the district of Paracatu, the head and only town of the newly created comarca, which took its name. At the same time was abolished the office of the Juiz de Fora, which had existed since it was created a town in 1798, the new ouvidor becoming the intendant of gold. By another law of the 4th of April, 1816, the julgados of Desemboque and Araxa were separated from the ouvidoria or district of Goyaz, and annexed to the ouvidoria of Paracatu.

Comarca of Serro Frio.

The comarca of Serro Frio takes its name from a mountain, which of all others is the most celebrated for the riches which it contains. It is limited on the[281] north by the province of Bahia, which also with that of Porto Seguro confines it on the east; on the south by the comarca of Villa Rica; and on the west by that of Sabara. It comprises nearly three hundred miles from north to south, and one hundred and eighty from east to west. The country is for the greater part very mountainous, and watered by numerous rivers, with extensive charnecas, or sterile lands, in the northern part, which only serve for the breeding of cattle. There are, however, generally portions of land, more or less considerable, appropriated to the culture of cotton, Indian corn, rice, mandioca, legumes, tobacco, some rye, and sugar. It is the richest in precious stones; and has mines of all the metals.

Mountains.—There is a grand cordillera, (a continuation of the Mantiqueira,) which does not always retain the same name, altitude, or direction, breaking in many parts, and stretching out various arms at divers points, traversing the comarca almost north and south. In the eastern part there is the serra of Esmeraldas; the serra Branca, which separates the comarca from that of Sabara for a considerable space, and afterwards inclines to the north-east to the limit of the province; the serra of Gram Mogol; that of Peixe Brabo; of Gurutuba, of Conceiçao, and of Almas.

Rivers.—The principal are the Jequitinhonha, the Verde, the Pardo, the Mucury, the Arassuahy, the Sassuhy, the Corrente, and the St. Antonio.

The Jequitinhonha, so celebrated for the prodigious quantity of diamonds that has been drawn from its bed, rises in the serra of Serro Frio. After having described many windings, and watered an extensive country, it receives on the left the Itucambyrussu, which flows from the west, and traverses the serra of Gram Mogol. Having run for a considerable space, and inclining to the east, its waters are increased by the Vaccaria, which enters on the same side, and descends also from the serra of Gram Mogol, traversing certams[24] pastured by cattle. A few leagues below it is joined on the right by the Arassuahy, which is superior, and originates also in the Serro Frio, a little to the east of it, and brings the waters of the St. Antonio, the Itamarandiba, and the Setuval, with others smaller, whose heads are on the northern side of the serra Esmeraldas. Some leagues below the confluence of the Arassuahy, the Piauhy enters, coming from the south-west, through woods abounding with game that affords food to[282] the savages. This river and its confluents abound with chrysolites, sapphires, crystals, pingos d’agua, and other precious stones. The Jequitinhonha gathers on the left the Hottinga, on the right the St. Java, and leaving the province flows north-east, forming a boundary to the ocean between the provinces of Porto Seguro and Bahia, where it is discharged under the name of the Belmonte. All these rivers are stored with the fish called doirado, piampara, piau, piabanha, trahira, sorubin, and mandin, called also roncadore.

The river Verde is large and flows through extensive certams abounding with cattle, which forms the wealth of many farmers, who live dispersed, principally in the vicinity of the southern portion of the serra of Gram Mogol. After a considerable course to the north, it receives on the right the Guaratuba, which originates near the northern portion of the last mentioned serra, and brings with it the Pacuhy, that issues from the serra Pranca, and joins it on the eastern side. Ten miles below the mouth of the Guaratuba, the Verde Pequeno (small) enters, which flows from the Morro da Chapeo, a portion of the serra Almas, taking a westerly course, and forming the northern division of the province. At this part the Verde runs with little variation to the west, and continues in the same direction till it joins the St. Francisco. These rivers water sterile districts, which will never become populous.

The Pardo forms itself in the vicinity of the serra Almas, runs south-east, gathering the Preto, which has its source in the serra Branca, inclines to the east, and enters the comarca of Ilheos, where it is discharged into the ocean by the name of Patype.

The Mucury, whose principal head springs to the south of the serra Esmeraldas, after receiving by the left margin the large and small Preto, and lower, the Todos os Santos on the right, enters the province of Porto Seguro, where it increases, and falls into the ocean. The territory which this river passes, (before leaving the comarca,) and its said tributaries, was formerly possessed by the Macuni, Panhame, Capocho, and Machacary Indians. At the present day the ferocious Aimbores are its wandering inhabitants.

The first river Preto, about ten miles above its mouth, gathers on the left the small stream of Americanas, formed by three rivulets issuing from the same serra. Near the central one was found in 1811, a beautiful aqua-marina, of more than fifteen pounds weight, and another of four pounds. The Sassuhy, the Corrente, and the St. Antonio, are tributaries of the river Doce, and flow through the most southern part of the comarca.

Villa do Principe, the head of the comarca, and residence of its ouvidor, (who fills other offices,) is considerable, well supplied, and possesses a church of the Lady of Conceiçao, a chapel of the Lord of Matozinhos, another of St. Rita, three of the Lady of Purificaçao, Carmo, and Rozario. It is ill situated, has only one good street, and was erected into a town in the year 1714. It has a Juiz de Fora, a royal professor of Latin, and a smelting house for gold, with the same appointments as that of Sabara. This town is in the vicinity of the serra Lapa, two miles distant from the river Peixe, (a branch of the St. Antonio,) near one hundred north-east of Sabara, one hundred and ten north-north-east of Marianna, and three hundred and seventy almost north-west of Rio de Janeiro. The inhabitants are miners, and cultivators of Indian corn, legumes, cotton, and sugar; the whites constitute twenty-two companies of infantry, the mulattoes thirteen, and the free blacks six. The revenue of the vicarship amounts to twelve thousand crusades, and that of the camara to seven. In the whole of the comarca there are two regiments of cavalry, one of eight, and the other of nine companies.

Within the district of the last town, and at a distance of forty miles, is the large arraial and parish of Conceiçao, in whose environs is the serra of Gaspar Soares, abundant in iron mines, for the working of which a royal establishment is forming.

Bom Successo, better known by the name of Fanado, created a town in 1751, is well situated on elevated land, enjoying a fine climate, between two small streams that afford it the name, and uniting, enter the Arassuahy, which passes six miles distant to the north. It has a church dedicated to the “Chief of the Apostles,” chapels of the Lord of Bom Fim, of the Lady of Amparo, for the mulattoes, of Rozario, for the blacks, St. Anna, St. Joze, and St. Gonçalo; and a Terceira order of St. Francisco. It possesses a Juiz de Fora, and a royal professor of Latin. It has not one house of stone. The inhabitants follow the same occupations as those of the last town, and some work for precious stones. The general traders are the most independent. This place is two hundred and twenty miles north-east of Marianna, two hundred and ten, nearly in the same direction, from Sabara, one hundred and twenty-five north-north-east of Villa do Principe, and four hundred and fifty from Rio de Janeiro. In its extensive circuit there are various hermitages, namely, Piedade, Mercez, Penha, St. Joao, Prata, and Barreiras. Their numbers are expected to increase to the east and south as far as the river Doce, when the projected roads to the[284] ports of Porto Seguro are made and frequented. The fertility of the territory, and the facility which proper measures may create for transporting produce to the ports, will most probably attract numerous colonies to this district, which, unquestionably, will become the best in the province, when the Aimbore Indians are subjugated.

Ten miles to the north of Bom Successo is the parish of St. Cruz da Chapada, near the river Capibary. The inhabitants scarcely raise any of the necessaries of life, but follow mining.

Fifteen miles to the north-east of the preceding, and twenty-five from Bom Successo, is the arraial of Agua Suja, (Dirty Water,) near the confluence of the stream of its name, with the Arassuahy, having a church dedicated to the Lady of Conceiçao. The inhabitants cultivate Indian corn, legumes, and cotton, and are gold miners. In its district are the parishes of St. Domingos, and Conceiçao, near the Sucuriu, whose parishioners raise the same articles, and work for gold and precious stones.

One hundred miles north of Bom Successo is the considerable arraial of Rio Pardo, at the confluence of the river from which it takes the name with the Preto, each having a bridge. The houses are in great part of adobe, and the church of taipa. Its inhabitants raise cattle, mandioca, Indian corn, rice, cotton, and a variety of fruits.

Two hundred and ten miles north of Sabara, one hundred and thirty west-north-west of Bom Successo, and one hundred and fifty north-north-west of Villa do Principe, is the famous arraial and julgado of Barra do Rio das Velhas, situated in a plain at the confluence of the river of its name, from whose floods it sustains considerable injury. It has a church of Bom Successo, and a chapel of Lord Jesus of Matozinhos, has much commerce, is well supplied with meat, fish, and fruit, and is the depositary of a large quantity of salt that arrives from the salterns of the river St. Francisco. Fevers, which reign here in the wet season, have driven away many inhabitants, and prevent this place from becoming one of the largest povoaçoes in the province. This arraial, that of Bom Successo, and others of the comarca, belong to the archbishopric of Bahia.

Two miles distant is the arraial of Porteira, with a chapel of the Lady of Bom Successo and Rozario. In it reside the vicar, and the officers of justice, in consequence of being a healthy situation.

Twenty miles further to the north, upon the margin of the St. Francisco, is[285] the small and agreeably situated arraial of Estrema, with a hermitage of Conceiçao. It abounds with fish and meat. The fruit consists principally of oranges.

Within this comarca is the mountainous diamond district, fifty miles in diameter. The beautiful stones found here by Bernardo da Fonseca Lobo, in 1730, on being discovered to be diamonds, afforded this part of the comarca its designation. The value of these stones not being at first known, the district remained free till 1734, when an ouvidor of the province, who had resided at Goa, and had there acquired a knowledge of this most precious article, coming from Golconda, pronounced them diamonds.

J. F. d’Oliveira and F. F. da Sylva had the diamond contract in 1741, for three years, at the sum of nine hundred thousand crusades. By a letter of the 3d of April, 1743, the king ordered the provedor of the treasury of Villa Rica to superintend the diamond contract, with a sum not to exceed two hundred thousand crusades per annum. Some time having passed, the contract was publicly sold to some persons of the name of Caldeyras, who, in their operations, met with copious and rich supplies. The opulence thus acquired, led them to perpetrate crimes for which they were sent to Limoeiro, where they ended their days, their property being confiscated by the crown. This contract was granted anew, to J. F. d’Oliveira, with whom it remained till the end of 1771.

On the 1st of January, 1772, the diamond district came under the immediate management of the government. But diamonds alone do not constitute the riches and celebrity of this district; other precious stones concur in rendering it important, such as sapphires, emeralds, aqua-marinas, chrysolites, topazes, &c. All these stones are produced in the serras, from whence they descend to the rivers, with the waters of the copious thunder showers. This district also possesses mines of all the metals, the extraction of which is rigorously prohibited on account of the diamonds.

Around the diamond district there are various military detachments, to prevent the plunder of those stones, or of gold; and also to exact the duties paid upon entrance. Amongst those stations may be enumerated, first, Milho Verde; and, next in rotation, Pirahuna, Gouvea, Rio Pardo, Chapada, Arraial, Hinhahy, Rio Manço. The diamond demarcation, afar off exhibits a black perspective, swelling into a thousand rugged and uneven serras; on one hand are elevated mountains of one single stone, cut by nature into precipices that raise their heads to the clouds; on the other, are extended serras, composed of[286] detached rocks and stones, accumulated on each other in chaotic piles, covered with a grey moss, and sparingly dressed in creeping brushwood. A thousand pure and crystalline rills warble across its rude tracts formed by the miner, and roll into his gamella[25] their rich offerings. The waters of some are dashed over the sides of mountains, others descend divided between broken rocks to the base of the serras, from whence, accumulating, they flow in serpentine courses in search of larger rivers, running sometimes tamely and tranquilly between spacious banks; at others, precipitated amongst approximating and steep serras, with loud and interesting murmurs. For a time they often disappear altogether from the sight, are again visible, flowing on in foaming fury. The crystallizations of diamonds are obtained near the surface of the earth. Their form is triangular, round, pointed on one side, with the face always smooth; this proves that the crystallization is dispersed and solitary.

In the centre of the diamond district, one hundred and thirty miles north-north-east of Marianna, one hundred and ten from Sabara, one hundred south-west of Bom Successo, and twenty-eight north-north-west of Villa do Principe, in a broken part of Serro Frio, to the west, and not far from the river Jequitinhonha, is the flourishing arraial of St. Antonio do Tijuco, situated upon an amphitheatre, with a church of St. Antonio, which has the brotherhoods of S.S., of Pasos, and of the Lady of Terco, a chapel of the Lord of Bom Fim, with a fraternity of black creoles; four of the Lady of Amparo, with a brotherhood of mulattoes; of Carmo, with a Terceira order; of Rozario, with a fraternity of African blacks; and Mercez; another of St. Francisco, handsome, and with a Terceira order; a recolhimento of Donzellas, or Virgins, with their little chapel, dedicated to the Lady of Luz; and a house of misericordia, whose chapel is called St. Isabel. It has quarters for troops, abounds with excellent water, and is rendered particularly wholesome by salubrious mountain breezes. The buildings are generally of taipa, few being of stone.

Here reside the tribunal, or diamond junta, composed of five deputies, namely, a disembargador intendente, (the intendant judge, or governor,) who is the president, with an exclusive jurisdiction in the diamond demarcation, and a salary of eight thousand crusades per annum, besides other very considerable emoluments; um corregedor fiscal, (a civil magistrate,) with 5000 crusades;[287] um primeiro caixa, (a first book or chest keeper,) with 8000; um segundo caixa, (a second book or chest keeper,) with 6000; um inspector geral, (an inspector general,) with 4000.

There is an escrivao, or accountant of diamonds; and a merinho, or officer, for apprehending persons. The governor has an escrivao, who attends the civil and criminal proceedings. There are upwards of six thousand negroes to work for diamonds, and two hundred inspectors, who are whites and subordinate to the junta. In some years there have been found from four to five thousand oitavas (five hundred to six hundred ounces) of diamonds, and amongst them, some stones from one-eighth to five-eighths of an ounce. No one is allowed to enter this district without an express licence.

This province comprehends three-fourths of the capitania of the same name, given in the year 1534 to Vasco Fernandez Coutinho, as a remuneration for the services he had rendered in Asia to the Portuguese crown. It extends one hundred and thirty miles from south to north, between the river Cabapuana and the river Doce, its northern limit; the width from east to west hitherto remains, in great part, undetermined, in consequence of a considerable portion of this territory yet remaining in the power of the aboriginal natives. It is bounded on the north by the province of Porto Seguro, on the west by that of Minas Geraes, on the south by that of Rio de Janeiro, and on the east by the Atlantic Ocean.

Authentic documents, as to the precise epoch of its colonization, are not discovered; the foundation of the town of Espirito Santo, and from which the capitania derived its name, may however be regarded as its commencement. This town (now called Villa Velha, or Old Town,) was the capital until Victoria acquired the pre-eminence.

It is asserted, by the author of the Geographical Description of Portuguese America, that Coutinho only took sixty persons with him to form the first establishment in his capitania, in which number were included two degradados, or degraded fidalgos, Don Gorge de Menezes and Don Simao de Castello Branco. With this small number he engaged and put the Indians to flight; founded the primitive capital; constructed a fort; and established an engenho.

Animated with a desire of affording his colony the means of a rapid improvement, he returned to Portugal, to procure what appeared to him requisite for the accomplishment of this praiseworthy object, leaving in his stead Gorge de Menezes, who was killed in combat with the natives. Castello[289] Branco succeeded him in the government, and the Goytacaze tribe, having formed a confederacy with the Tupininquins, they attacked the colony under his temporary jurisdiction with so much fury and effect as to destroy every edifice and to counteract all the efforts of the Portuguese to retain the footing they had made, so that the remains of the colony, finding that the Indians gave no quarter to any individual, were compelled to seek refuge upon the margins of the river Cricare.

Coutinho returned from Portugal soon after this event, with all the assistance he could collect, and finding his capitania deserted, he solicited succours from Mendo de Sa, the governor-general at Bahia, which were promptly despatched under the command of his excellency’s son, Fernando de Sa, who uniting his force to the fugitives, near the Cricare, an assault was made upon the Indians with considerable advantage, but a body of the enemy fell upon them in turn, and did not allow time for the whole to save themselves by flight to the ships; Fernando de Sa, the commander was amongst the number that perished.

Ultimately, sixty-eight Europeans, the remains of so many people who had in the course of thirty years repaired to this capitania to establish themselves, attacked the Indians with desperate bravery, and gained a complete victory. This fortunate circumstance, aided by the religious instruction with which the Jesuits enlightened and made friends of a considerable portion of those savages, who served to reinforce the small number of whites, enabled the donatory to restore the capitania to the state in which he had left it.

The padre, Affonso Braz, who founded the college of the town of Victoria, in 1551, was the first missionary who arrived in this province.

The Indians did not supply the want of Europeans, who were prevented from coming here by hearing of the calamities of their countrymen.

Reverses of fortune reduced Coutinho to a state which precluded all possibility of deriving any advantage from the capitania; and one of his descendants, being equally unfortunate, sold it, for forty thousand crusades, to Francisco Gil d’Araujo, who established himself in it, animated with various projects, but which he soon abandoned in despair. One of his heirs, after using every endeavour, relinquished it under similar circumstances, and sold it to the crown in the reign of John V. for the sum which it cost. This province cannot be said to have experienced any considerable amelioration since the period of its reversion to the crown, nor does the dominion of the Indians reach to a much less extensive tract of territory, which may be attributed to the present scanty population, and the want of energy on the part of the government; it may[290] however be observed, that the reduction of the Indians is rendered more difficult by the numerous serras and extensive woods which cover this district, demonstrating at the same time the fertility of the soil and its susceptibility of numerous branches of agriculture. The river Doce, which bounds it on the north, would render it still more valuable from the communication which might be opened by water from the mining districts to the ocean; and there is little doubt but that part of this district, in the power of the Indians, through which it runs is auriferous; at least it is fair to draw such an inference from the pieces of gold which are in the possession of the Indians who come in contact with the Portuguese parties of soldiers stationed upon its banks. An ouvidor assured me that the captain-mors, who commanded advanced stations upon this river, had seen pieces of gold in the possession of the Indians which they did not appear to value, but willingly exchanged them, at favourable opportunities, for knives or other iron instruments.

The salubrity of the climate, the existing state of this province, and the advantages which it presents, loudly call upon the present king and government to adopt measures for clearing the margins of the river Doce of the tribes of Indians that infest it, and to render this river navigable from the ocean to the province of Minas Geraes. The only natural difficulties of the river which present any impediment to its free navigation are the Escadinha falls, met with in its course between the latter province and that of Porto Seguro; they are three in number, are highly interesting, and do not extend more than three miles, being nearly together, so that the construction of a railway, or any other and less excellent expedient which the government might be induced to adopt, for the space only of three miles, would connect a conveyance by water to the coast of the produce of the interior districts, which at present is sent on the backs of mules, two and three months being consumed on the journey, and the same period with the return cargoes.

Mountains.—The most remarkable mountains in the vicinity of the sea are, the serra Guarapary, upon the river of the same name; that of Pero-cao, further to the north; Monte Moreno, near the entrance of the bay of Espirito Santo, and Mestre-Alvaro, which is a mountain almost circular, enjoying extensive views, and is the highest upon the coast. It is about three miles from the beach, in parts bare and rocky, in others covered with wood, having some fertile portions, the cultivators of which are generally within the parish of Nossa Senhora da Conceiçao of the serra. The best balsamic trees of the province are produced here; it is situated between the rivers Carahype, and Reis Magos,[291] and formerly had a volcano. Five miles to the south of the river Piuma is Mount Agha, from whence issue excellent waters. It is a land-mark to navigators.

Mineralogy.—It produces gold, magnet, crystals, amethysts, and potters and other earths; the mountains in great part consist of granite.

Zoology.—The Puri tribes of Indians possess the western and central parts of the province, and yet make descents upon the sea-coast, generally doing considerable injury to the Christians who reside contiguous to the shore. They are rather meagre in person, but are courageous and perfidious. Some hordes are already domiciliated in aldeias, and live in peace with the conquerors, in the vicinity of the river Parahiba; but the greater portion wander about, not deviating from the habits of their ancestors. It is said their numbers have diminished, in consequence of the fatal rencounters they have had with the Aimbore tribe. They do not exercise any branch of agriculture; and as the soil, though fertile, cannot gratuitously supply a sufficient maintenance, there is a perpetual attack on all kinds of game. They are formidable enemies of the Corados; they use the bow and barbed arrow, and hold in high esteem all instruments of iron, and above all the axe. The skins of animals are not used for the covering of their naked bodies, nor for any other purpose. Amongst other wild quadrupeds, the deer, boar, monkey, ounce, and anta, are well known, against which a continual warfare is carried on, in which the gun is used as well as the bow. A kind of monkey (Sahium) is frequently met with, of an ash colour, with the face white. The colhereira, mutun, jacutinga parrot, arrara, inhuma, tucano, macuco partridge, and other birds of beautiful plumage, are generally seen, on proceeding beyond the cultivated grounds, which consist only of certain portions running parallel with, and not extending far from the coast; domestic animals are consequently not very numerous.

Phytology.—In the woods which cover a considerable portion of the country there is a great diversity of trees of excellent timber for building and other purposes; the Brazil wood, the sassafras, and the cedar, are well known; besides other resinous trees are those which afford gum-mastick, gum-copal, and the cajue-nut tree; those which produce the cupahiba oil are common. No other province possesses such an abundance of the tree that supplies the Peruvian balsam. The sipo clove is met with, the leaves of which exhale an aromatic, similar to the East Indian clove. The piquia produces a fruit of the size of an orange, full of a fine flavoured juice, with a great number of seeds. The goyty is a fruit of the size of a lemon, oblong, with little pulp, yellow, of a fine flavour,[292] and filled with fibres attached to a large stone; there are two sorts similar in taste, and denominated mirim. The pitoma is larger than the mangaba, oblong, with a smooth rind, savory pulp, and a stone. Amongst the species of fruit trees which the Portuguese have here naturalized, the most useful are the orange and cocoa-nut; amongst other native trees are the jabuticaba, the ubaya, whose fruit is similar to the first, of excellent quality, and also grows upon the trunk, and even upon the roots that appear. The arassanhuna is also a fruit very much like the jabuticaba, but not of so much flavour, and grows at the point of the branches. The fig-tree fructifies in perfection.

The soil is particularly well adapted to the cane, of which there are many engenhos. Legumes, coffee, cocoa, bananas, water-melons, and mandioca, which latter is not grown in sufficient quantity for the consumption of the population, the inhabitants preferring the culture of the cotton tree, of which they make large plantations. Its produce constitutes their principal branch of commerce and wealth; they export a considerable quantity, partly in the wool, and partly in coarse cloth. A sort of narrow sail-cloth is likewise manufactured with it, called tracado, to which a preference is given to that of flax, for forming the sails of some of the coasting vessels. The production of rice and Indian corn is considerable.

Rivers and Ports.—The river Camapuan, commonly Cabapuanna, and which the Indians call Reritigba, originates in the serra of Pico, not far distant from the source of the Muryahe, runs between mountains augmented by various others which join it, and enters the ocean fifteen miles to the north of the Parahiba. It is navigable for large canoes for a considerable space, to a certain situation, where its current begins to be more violent and its bed less disembarrassed.

Ten miles to the north of the Camapuan, the Itapemirim empties itself, after a considerable course, and is already large on crossing the cordillera. It is said that one of its branches originates in the mines of Castello, which were abandoned in consequence of the invasions of the Puris and Aimbores. Sumacas advance some miles up it, and canoes much further.

The Piuma, which rises in an auriferous country to the west of the cordillera, discharges itself fourteen miles to the north of the Itapemirim, and affords navigation to canoes for a considerable space.

Twenty miles to the north of the Piuma is the Benevente, which is only considerable as far as the tide advances; it is supposed to descend from the cordillera.

The Guarapary, which discharges itself ten miles to the north of Benevente,[293] is narrow and deep in the proximity of the sea, where it traverses the cordillera, beyond which it is unknown, as well as the country through which it flows.

The river Jecu enters the ocean ten miles to the north of the Guarapary, and three to the south of the entrance to the bay of Espirito Santo. The Jesuits who possessed the adjacent lands, formed a navigable communication from this river to the bay, by an extensive valley, in order to avoid the dangers of the ocean, passing round mount Moreno to enter the port. It yet remains, presenting the same advantage to the present agriculturists of the country.

The bay of Espirito Santo is spacious, with secure anchorage. Amongst the various streams which lose themselves in it, the Santa Maria is the only considerable one. It is navigable for the space of forty miles to the first fall. The tide runs up this river about twelve miles to the mouth of the river Serra, which unites it on the left bank; by the same side it receives another, which affords navigation to the centre of the district, which indicates much fecundity. By the southern margin it is joined by the small river Crubixa, where the stones met with in its bed afford a sort of coral, with which the Indians ornament themselves. In the vicinity of this river is cultivated mandioca, rice, bananas, and canes, the sugar of which is deemed the best in the province. Seven miles from the northern bar of Espirito Santo is the small river Carahype, which becomes a current only when the rains produce an overflowing of the lake Jucunen, which is well stored with fish, about three miles in length, and near the sea. A little to the north of the mount of Mestre Alvaro, the Reys Majos, originally Apyaputang, is discharged, having a small port at its embouchure.

The Mandu comes from the interior of the country, running north-north-east between woods, enters the river Doce two miles below the Escadinha Falls, and is navigable for canoes.

The villa or town of Nossa Senhora of Victoria, the capital of the province, is situated on an amphitheatrical site on the western side of an island, fifteen miles in circumference, in the bay of Espirito Santo, which is capable of receiving frigates, and its entrance is defended by five small forts. The town is well provided with water, has tolerable houses, paved streets, and a church, which when complete will be handsome. There is a house of misericordia, convents of Franciscans and slippered Carmelites, two Terceira orders belonging to[294] those corporations, a chapel of St. Luzia, three of Nossa Senhora of Boa Morte, Conceiçao, and Rozario. The ex-Jesuitical college is a fine edifice, and now serves for the palace of the governors. The ouvidor of the comarca has his ordinary residence here. It has also a royal professor of Latin, and a junta da real fazenda, or the treasury. The island is elevated, and the greatest part in a state of cultivation. Its eastern side lies in a direct line with the coast of the continent.

At the entrance of the bar, near the before-mentioned Moreno Mount, is another, also a land-mark to sailors, and is in the form of a sugar-loaf. On its summit is a convent of Franciscans, dedicated to Nossa Senhora da Penha, of which it takes the name, not unfrequently sustaining damage by the winds. The inhabitants of this sanctuary enjoy delightful prospects of the vast ocean, and the varied scenery of mountains of a diversity of elevation and aspect, with valleys of different width and profundity.

In the skirts of this mount, at the entrance of the bay, is Villa Velha, (Old Town,) originally the town of Espirito Santo, and for some time capital of the capitania, which, however, never became considerable, and is now of little consequence. Our Lady of Rozario is the patroness of the church, whose parishioners are fishermen. Fish are abundant and cheap upon all this part of the coast.

Benevente is at present a small town; but it unquestionably enjoys an advantageous situation for becoming more considerable, at the mouth of the river which takes its name, having a commodious anchorage place, and great fertility of surrounding soil. The inhabitants are mostly Indians, for whose reception it first began. The Jesuits, its founders, had a hospicio, or entertaining house here, which is now divided into three portions; one is the residence of the vicar, another is appropriated to the municipal house, and the third for the use of the ouvidor. The church is dedicated to Our Lady of Assumpçao. In the adjacencies of the river, cotton, sugar, rice, Indian corn, &c. are cultivated. The canoes which convey those productions to the port can advance up the river with the tide for a considerable distance.

Guarapary is a villota, or small place, situated near the embouchure of the river Guarapary, upon a small bay. The church is dedicated to Nossa Senhora da Conceiçao. Its inhabitants, principally Indians, cultivate cotton and the necessaries of life. Here is collected the greatest portion of the Peruvian balsam, which takes the name of the province.

Almeyda, situated on elevated ground, near the embouchure of the Reys[295] Magos, from whence a great extent of ocean is discovered, was founded by the Jesuits, who had a hospicio here, whither they repaired from the college of the capital to learn the Tupininquin language. This edifice has been for a long time the residence of the vicars, and its handsome chapel, dedicated to Reys Magos, has always served for the mother church. It has a considerable piece of ground attached to it, in the form of a square. In no other parish of the bishopric have the number of native Indians increased so much as here; with them are intermixed some whites and mesticos. The whole pursue fishing, and are farmers of the first necessaries. They export some earthenware and timber.

Five miles to the north of Almeyda is the Aldeia Velha, (the Old Aldeia,) inhabited by Christianized Indians. It has commodious anchorage for sumacas at the mouth of a small river.

Further on there is another aldeia of Goytacaze Indians, also Christians. The whole cultivate the necessaries of life, practise fishing, and many pursue the manufacture of earthenware. Orange trees are remarkably abundant, and the fruit excellent. A considerable quantity of gamellas (wooden bowls) are exported.

Itapemirim stands on the southern margin, and two miles above the mouth of the river of the same name. It has a parish church of Our Lady of Amparo. A considerable augmentation of this place is anticipated. Its inhabitants drink the waters of the river, cultivate plantations of the sugar cane, and the cotton tree, rice, Indian corn, &c. and cut timber; all these are articles of exportation.

On the margin of the river Piuma there is an aldeia of the same name, whose inhabitants cultivate the necessaries of life peculiar to the country, and cut much timber from the neighbouring woods. Vessels of a small size can be constructed here.

On the margin of the river Doce, two miles below the mouth of the Mandu, there is a prezidio, with the name of Souza, in order to impede the smuggling of gold from Minas Geraes, and which may become in time a considerable povoaçao. The surrounding territory is highly fertile. One quart of the seed of feijao will generally produce ninety Winchester bushels; and lower down, upon an island in the same river, the same quantity of seed has rendered one hundred and fifteen Winchester bushels, which is nearly four hundred for one. A quart of Indian corn commonly produces one hundred and fifteen bushels. A shrub grows here, the bruised leaves of which afford a liquor by infusion, which will dye a fast purple colour.

Near the river Jecu, at a great distance above its mouth, in a fertile district, is beginning to flourish the arraial of the same name, inhabited by white agriculturists, and abounding with game.

In the latitude of 20°, and upwards of five hundred miles distant from the coast of this province, is the small and rocky island of Ascension, also called Trinidade. It has good water; but having no good anchorage place, and little of its surface being susceptible of cultivation, it is uninhabited.

This province, which comprises the territory of the capitania of the same name, with one portion of that of Ilheos, and another of that of Espirito Santo, is confined on the north by the province of Bahia, from which it is separated by the river Belmonte, on the west by Minas Geraes, on the south by Espirito Santo, and on the east by the ocean. It lies between 15° 54′ and 19° 31′ of south latitude, and in consequence of its being like the province of Espirito Santo imperfectly explored, and from the same cause, of being in great part under the dominion of the Indians, its width cannot be precisely determined. A different result might have justly been expected, as it is without contradiction that part of the new world where the Portuguese were first established. It has already been shown that Cabral left here two degradados in the year 1500, and Christovam Jaques a large number of other individuals, with two Franciscan missionaries in the year 1504. The excellent quality of the Brazil wood, which the first explorers found in abundance, soon rendered it an object of public contract, and the good understanding which the colony maintained] with the Indians, also contributed to its being regularly and annually visited for the purpose of so important a traffic.

When John III. partitioned this region into capitanias, the colony of Porto Seguro had begun to flourish, and many ships destined for India refreshed in its port. The three Indians, which George Lopez Bixorda presented to King Emanuel in 1513, were Tupininquins, the allies and friends of the colonists of Porto Seguro, and the interpreter who accompanied them was one of the degradados left there by Cabral in 1500. This Bixorda had the contract for Brazil wood, and in order to show the king a sample of his new subjects, the three Indians were conveyed to Portugal in the ship laden with this precious wood,[298] without any change of their rude and native dress, the peculiarity of which consisted in their bodies being dressed or ornamented with feathers, and their lips, noses, and ears distorted with immense pendants; their usual weapons of defence, the bow and arrow, added to the interest which their appearance excited.

The name of Porto Seguro, (Secure Port,) given to the bay where the discovering armada anchored, also soon became common to the anchorage place of the river Buranhen, with the establishment of the colony which C. Jaques planted upon its margin, in the place where the principal or high part of the capital is now situated. It soon after became the factory also for the Brazil wood.

Pedro do Campo Tourinho, its first donatory, after having sold all he possessed, for the purpose of transporting himself, his wife, Ignez Fernandes Pinta, one son, called Fernam do Campo Tourinho, and various families who agreed to accompany him, arrived safe in the port of the factory. Not one of the other donatories experienced so prosperous a disembarkation. His colony was a considerable augmentation of that of C. Jaques, or the factory, where he found many countrymen, some of whom had been more than thirty years in the country, with their half Indian progeny, called Mamalucos, living in full harmony with the aborigines.

In a few years he found himself in a considerable and flourishing town. Besides the town of Santa Cruz he founded that of St. Amaro, and other aldeias, with which the establishment was greatly increased, and before his death had acquired a very flourishing state.

The town of St. Amaro, any vestige of which can scarcely at present be discovered, near the morro crowned with a hermitage of Our Lady d’Ajuda, three miles to the south of Porto Seguro, was demolished by the ferocious Abatyra Indians in the year 1564.

The town of St. Cruz, which was commenced upon Cabralia Bay, (Bay of Cabral,) was removed by its inhabitants near to the river Joao de Tyba, in consequence of its more favourable soil.

The first donatory was succeeded by his said son, who did not live to enjoy it long. To Fernam do Campo Tourinho succeeded his sister, Leonor do Campo Tourinho, widow of Gregorio de Pesqueira, to whom the king confirmed the capitania by letter of the 30th of May, 1556. Two months afterwards she sold it, by permission of the Sovereign, to the Duke d’Aveiro, Don John de Lancastre, to whom the King, in the same law, granted licence, at his death, [299]to nominate his son, Don Pedro Deniz de Lancastre, from whose successors it reverted to the crown in the reign of Joseph I. in a very bad state and with only two towns. One hundred milreas (about £25) de juro, or right, six hundred milreas (about £150) in money, and two moyos (about seventy Winchester bushels each) of wheat every year as long as the vendor lived, was the price stipulated in the writings of the sale. The Jesuits, who founded a house in the capital in 1553, with the intention of better reducing the Indians to Catholicism, only left two aldeias entirely Indian, of which they were the curates. Amongst the most able of those in the course of two hundred and five years, who became curates in these missions, many went there to be catechised previous to studying theology at the college of Bahia, in order to learn more perfectly the idiom of the Indians, who were not taught the Portuguese language, as they only treated or had intercourse with the curates, who were well acquainted with their language.

The Abatyra Indians, at the period before alluded to, destroyed, amongst other places, the towns of Juassema and St. Andre, founded by the duke. These Indians, now unknown, are said to be a horde of the Aimores, or perhaps this was the name by which the Tupininquins designated them in general. The Aimores are believed to have been a tribe of northern Tapuyas, who, in ancient times, in consequence of the wars, proceeded southward, and retired to the west of the serra which afterwards took their name. The neighbouring nations called them Aimbores, and the Portuguese, from corruption, Aimores; but, for a considerable time, they have had no other name amongst the Christians than Botocudos, in consequence of their custom of perforating the ears and lips. They always wander about, divided into parties of forty to sixty families, destroying game, and gathering wild fruits, their ordinary aliment. Some paint the body, at times, a green colour, at others yellow; and in order to free themselves from the attacks of the mosquito, at certain seasons, or in places where they most incommode them, they varnish the skin with the juice or milk of certain trees. Their arms are the bow and the arrow barbed on both sides. They have no other conveyance by water, but jangadas, or catamarans, rudely formed of the trunks of the jangada tree, and put together with very little care, with which they cross large rivers. Their combats, like those of all other Indians, are from ambuscades, and they commonly make the assault after dark, and only when they judge that they are taking their enemy by surprise. Some tribes, when they have determined[300] to engage the foe, leave the aged, the women, and children, in some secure place in the centre of their district. Their barbarity has always produced the idea that they are much more numerous than they are really found to be. The garrisons newly established upon the eastern line of the province of Minas Geraes, and those in the centre of this, have obliged many to sue for that peace which had been so frequently offered them, and which they always rejected, secure in extensive woods, where there are few, if any, Christian colonists to subdue their wild habits, or mitigate their savage propensities.

Of all the provinces of the Brazil, this may be said to be the most backward in cultivation, and in the civilization of the aboriginal inhabitants. It is almost one wood of fine timber, and different species of trees, indicating, beyond a question, the great fertility generally of its soil. The want of good ports capable of receiving large ships is assigned as the cause of its present condition; but want of industry, and the requisite energy and spirit of improvement, as well as the deficiency, it must be allowed, of population, are the real causes. The Christianized population only possess the parts adjacent to the ocean, and few days pass in certain months of the year, that its coasts are not visited by the Indians in search of the eggs of the tortoise. From these people the Canarins are known, who are the nearest hordes to the towns of Caravellas, and Villaviçoza. It is said that they have an establishment of one vast house in the centre of the country, hid in a valley between two mountains. The Machacaris are masters of a country washed by the rivers Norte and Sul. In the western part are known the Cumanacho, Mono, Frecha, Catathoy, Aimore, and the Patacho nations; the last are more numerous than all the others together, and extend themselves, divided into tribes, from one extremity of the province to the other.

The Aimores are anthropophagi, and the dread of all the other nations except the Patachos.

From the river Doce, the southern limit of this province, as far as a league to the north of the Jucurucu, the lands are so flat, that they scarcely exceed the level of the highest tides. In the whole of this tract, (more than one hundred miles,) not one mountain, or even small elevation is seen. From this point nearly to the Buranhen, the shore is of a green or white colour, and of four to six yards in height; the remainder of the coast to the river Belmonte is in parts flat, in others rather more elevated. Fine woods are everywhere seen extending to the margin of the ocean.

Mountains.—Those in the central and western parts are unknown. At the northern extremity of the eastern side only is discovered the serra of Aimores, the highest portion of which, denominated the Mount of John de Siam, and the outer portion Mount Pascoal, is seen for many leagues at sea, being the principal land-mark in this latitude.

Mineralogy.—Gold, iron, granite, calcareous stone, white potters’ earth, with other argils, amethysts, topazes, and other precious stones.

Zoology.—Domestic animals are in all parts very rare, if we except the environs of the capital. In the woods are the deer, boar, tamandua, monkey, anta, with various other species of this region, generally very numerous. Ounces are here in the greatest number, and commit their depredations upon the sea-coast from April to August, in consequence, it is thought, of the cold, which makes them desert the western lands, and seek the vicinity of the sea, where it is warmer. Hunters find with much facility the mutun, juru, macuco partridge, jacu, jacutinga, aracuan, nhamba, capueira, parrot, and a diversity of the turtle bird. The araponga, bicudo, and sabio are well known. The pavo, or peacock, is little larger than the tucano, black, with the breast yellow and red. The crijoha is something larger than the blackbird, and its change of colours beautiful. The bees produce honey in the trunks of trees, supplying aliment to a great many.

Phytology.—Amongst many other trees of good timber are the vinathico, aderno, avariba, anhuhyba, aricurana, anhahyba de rego, angelim, of different colours; also the biriba, buranhen, camacary, caixeta, cedar, cherry, conduru, grapiapunha, guanandirana, hoyticica, jatahy; of the jacaranda, are the sorts called cabuina, mulatto and white; of the jucirana, white and green; the jiquitiba, inhuhybatan, and the clove; ipe, black and other sorts; piqui, black, yellow, otherwise mirindiba; the potumuju, bow wood, oil wood, Brazil wood, oanandy, sapucaya, sobro, sucupiracu, sucupira acary, tatagiba, white and green timbuhyba; the jabuticaba, the aracaza, the pindahyba, and various palm trees are well known; the Asiatic cocoa-nut tree is not very frequent. There is a tree, the leaves of which, when broken, exhale the aromatic smell of the clove. The tree which produces the pechurim, here improperly called mulberry tree, is rare, and its fruit not so fine as that of Para. The soil is good for the culture of mandioca, the most valuable produce of the country; Indian corn, rice, and legumes grow in some districts. Cotton trees prosper best in the vicinity of the sea, at least in many situations.

Rivers, Lakes, and Ports.—The river Doce has its heads in the centre of Minas Geraes, and, flowing through part of that province, leaves it, already accumulated by its tributary streams into a considerable river, under the name by which it is here known. After it begins to divide this province from that of Espirito Santo, it is precipitated in the space of one league over three falls, denominated the Escadinhas. From hence to the ocean it is large, serpentine, and handsome, and has many flat islands. Its waters are muddy in the summer season, in consequence of the minerals of Minas Geraes with which it is impregnated; and this appearance is partly caused, it may be inferred, by the auriferous bed through which there cannot be a doubt, from what has been already observed, the latter part of its course is impelled. Its waters are discharged between two points of flat sand of considerable extent; and this aqueous volume preserves its freshness for a considerable distance into the ocean, from which circumstance its primitive name was changed to that of Doce (Soft, or Fresh.)

The St. Mattheus, originally the Cricare, has its source in Minas Geraes. Soon after entering this province, it runs for the space of many miles with great violence, occasioned by the impulse it acquires in descending various falls. A little below this current, which is supposed to be in the meridian of the Escadinhas, it receives by the left the large river Cotache, which traverses extensive woods, inhabited by Indians and wild beasts. It irrigates one of the most fertile countries of the state, and discharges itself into the sea thirty-five miles north of the Doce. A little above its embouchure it receives by the northern margin the St. Anna, which is navigable with the tide.

The Mucury, which is considerable as far as the tide advances, originates in Minas Geraes, and with a rapid current enters the sea near thirty miles to the north of the St. Mattheus. In the vicinity of the ocean it traverses a most fertile district, covered with fine woods, occupied by wild quadrupeds, beyond which it passes through lands rich in gold and precious stones. This river communicates with the Peruhype.

The Peruhype, whose mouth is fifteen miles north of the Mucury, originates in the centre of the province, and is apparently considerable, with a tide running many leagues up.

Ten miles north of the preceding is the mouth of the channel called the river Caravellas, but which is only an arm that the sea extends ten miles to the west, of considerable width, very deep, and beautifully bordered with mangroves.[303] The entrance is only accessible to small vessels. About the middle of its extent, there is a spacious channel of great depth communicating with the Peruhype.

The Itanhem, after a long course, enters the sea fifteen miles north of Caravellas, and affords navigation for canoes for a considerable distance.

The Jucurucu, which discharges itself fifteen miles north of the Itanhem, takes its name at the confluence of the afore-mentioned river Do Sul, (South) with the Do Norte, (North) which unite about twenty miles from the sea, and afford navigation to canoes for a considerable space into the interior of the country. Sumacas advance up this river as far as the said confluence.

Thirty miles to the north of the Jucurucu is the point Corumbau, by corruption Corumbabo; three miles further the mouth of the river Cramimuan, at the bottom of a large bay; and a little further the small river Juassema, near whose mouth is yet seen the vestiges of the town so called.

Eight miles north of the Cramimuan is the river Do Frade, (Friar,) which took its name from the shipwreck of a religious Franciscan. Its course is through woods, and it is only capable of receiving canoes.

The Buranhen, for a long period here designated only the Cachoeira, in consequence of a fall, (cachoeira,) which it passed about the centre of the province, enters the sea eighteen miles north of the Frade: its origin is unknown; but not being considerable, it may be inferred that its course is not extensive; that portion of it explored flows from the south-west to the north-east, with many windings. It affords various sorts of fish, such as are called here piaus, trahiras, robalos, acaris, piabanhas, piabas, jundias, pitus, and very large prones in abundance.

It is followed, at a distance of about eighteen miles by the St. Cruz, something smaller, and navigable by canoes. It took this name after the inhabitants of the town of St. Cruz removed to its margin, then called the Joam de Tyba. They formed the first colony in its vicinity. It is stored with the same fish as the preceding one.

The St. Antonio, the waters of which are muddy, with an inconsiderable course, is a few leagues north of the preceding.

The lake Juparana, deep, abounding with fish, interspersed with small islands, and about fifteen miles in circuit, bordered with fine woods, growing upon an uneven and fertile country, is twenty miles from the sea, has an outlet into the river Doce by a narrow and deep channel five miles in length, and receives a river called Cachoeira, which is said to be navigable.

Between the mouth of the Doce and the St. Mattheus is the lake Tapada, of considerable length from east to west but very narrow.

The lake of Medo, (Fear,) very small, is in the proximity of the origin of St. Antonio and communicates with the Belmonte.

The lake Braco, long and narrow, prolongs itself with the coast, between the Belmonte and the Mugiquissaba, which is small, and enters the ocean about eighteen miles south of the first.

The Belmonte, so called after the town of the same name was founded near its mouth, is formed in Serro do Frio, one of the comarcas of Minas Geraes, by the waters of the Jiquitinhonha and Arassuahy. When it traverses the cordillera of Aimores it is contracted between two mountains of unequal elevation; the northern one, called St. Bruno, is the highest, and on a sudden descends from a height of more than forty yards into a whirlpool, whose evaporation exhibits an eternal cloud, and the loud murmuring of its falling waters is heard sometimes twelve and fifteen miles off. Continuing for the space of fifteen miles to the east between rugged margins to a cachocirinha, (a little fall,) it flows through a flat and woody country to the sea, describing various windings, with a current rapid and wide but of little depth. Its fish called tubarõe is of an enormous size, and the cacoe is the smallest of its finny inhabitants. It has many flat islands within its margins, and does not receive any considerable stream after it descends the fall.

The Piauhy, which unites the Belmonte below this fall, is the most abundant amongst those which it receives, after commencing to serve as a limit to this province.

Cabralia Bay, (where the armada of Cabral anchored,) fifteen miles to the north of Porto Seguro, and four to the south of St. Cruz, is the only port of the province where large vessels can enter.

The bay of Concha, near the Mugiquissaba, is a roadstead which might be rendered capable of receiving vessels of large burden.

Porto Seguro, a considerable town, and capital of the province, is situated at the mouth of the river Buranhen, upon an elevation on the northern side, with an agreeable aspect, enjoying salubrious air, and provided with good water. It has a church of Nossa Senhora da Penna, a house of misericordia, and an ex-Jesuitical hospicio, at present the residence of the ouvidors. The[305] houses are of brick or wood, and the streets unpaved. The main part of its inhabitants frequent the fishing of garoupas, which form an important branch of their commerce. It has, as is usual, a royal professor of Latin. Its surrounding lands are appropriated to divers productions, none of which are superabundant except fruits. Porto Seguro, it is said, was once larger, but upon the occasion previously referred to was nearly dismantled by the Abatyras, and being rebuilt, again suffered much from the invasions of the Guerens, who, perhaps, would have annihilated it altogether if the celebrated Tateno, a cacique or chief from the river St. Antonio, who was a scourge to the other savages and a friend of the Christians, had not succoured them, in spite of the diseases under which he laboured at the time, and which did not permit him to move, except in a net or rede, carried upon the shoulders of his most robust comrades. The small povoaçoes of Pontinha, Marcos, and Pacatta, the whole upon the northern margin of the river, scarcely separated by small intervals, are so many other parts of this town.

Villaverde, originally Patatiba, is small but well situated, has a church dedicated to Espirito Santo, (Holy Spirit,) and a municipal house. It is eighteen miles above the capital, upon the southern margin of the same river, near a large lake. It has a profusion of fruits, and abundance of water from fountains. The soil is of great fertility, but is entirely left to the indolence of the Christianized Indians, amongst whom a white is scarcely seen. They export some timber and a little cotton.

Eighteen miles north of the capital, near the mouth of the St. Cruz, the parish of this name, formerly considerable, has decayed, in consequence of the invasions of the Guerens. It has a church, dedicated to Nossa Senhora of Conceiçao; and in the vicinity a tree is common, the fruit of which is called the quince. The proximity of Cabralia Bay, and the roads which are expected to be opened from divers points of Minas Geraes, will probably render this povoaçao a flourishing and considerable place.

Trancozo is an inconsiderable town, well situated, near the mouth of a small river; the church is dedicated to St. John Baptista, and its inhabitants, almost generally Indians, cultivate cotton and mandioca, and are also fishermen. It is fifteen miles south of Porto Seguro.

Prado, situated at the mouth of the Jucurucu, which was its primitive name, is forty miles to the south of Trancozo. A considerable quantity of farinha (flour of mandioca) is exported from hence, at present the only[306] riches of its inhabitants. Its church is dedicated to the Purificaçao de Nossa Senhora.

Alcobaça, another small town, near the mouth of the Itanhen, of which it originally had the name, has a church dedicated to St. Bernardo. The population, generally Indian, and the agriculture, begin to increase, by the establishments of various farmers, who removed hither from Caravellas, in consequence of the woods or mattas remaining uncut in the immediate vicinity of the town.

Caravellas is a considerable town, upon the northern margin of the river of the same name, about five miles from the sea, and almost in front of the channel which communicates with the Peruhype. It consists of three streets parallel with the river, which forms a good port, capable even of receiving large vessels, if the bar were accessible. It is the most frequented of any other town in the province; has a church called St. Antonio, and royal masters of the primitive letters and Latin. Almost all its inhabitants cultivate mandioca, which is nearly three years in the ground before it reaches maturity; they can scarcely make two plantations of it, as already in the second the ants have accumulated upon it to a destructive extent. The lands overgrow with brushwood immediately the woods are cleared away. The water-melons, aboboras, bananas, and oranges, are very fine. There are places covered entirely with the jabuticaba tree. A great quantity of farinha is exported from hence. Various families, who escaped from the catastrophe which attended the destruction of the towns in the vicinity of the capital by the Indians, commenced this town, upon the right bank of the river, near the bar, from whence it was shortly afterwards removed to the situation which it now occupies. They are now labouring in the opening of a road or track, to communicate with that of Portalegre, which leads to Minas Geraes.

Villaviçoza, at first called Campinho, upon the southern margin, and four miles above the mouth of the river Peruhype, is yet small, with a church of N. Senhora da Conceiçao. Its inhabitants produce much farinha, and the vessels by which the superfluity is exported navigate commonly by the river Caravellas, and the channel before mentioned, in consequence of the little depth which the Peruhype has at the bar.

Portalegre, at the mouth of the river Mucury, of which it originally had the name, is a small town, without any thing remarkable; but the extensive navigation of the river and the fertility of its surrounding lands promise it future augmentation. Its church is dedicated to St. Joze; and its inhabitants, besides[307] other necessaries, produce and export a considerable quantity of farinha, with some flax of ticum, and timber. In its district there are minerals of iron. From this town, a road runs to Villa do Principe in Minas Geraes.

The town of St. Mattheus, without regularity, upon gently elevated ground, on the right margin, and fifteen miles above the bar of the river so called, does not yet exceed mediocrity, but is well supplied with fish and good water. Many circumstances, however, concur to warrant the expectation of its becoming flourishing, when the Indians are reduced. Its inhabitants hitherto respire air infected by the neighbouring swamps, which occasionally produce fevers, terminating sometimes in death. They cultivate feijao, rice, Indian corn, cotton, the sugar cane, and above all mandioca, the farinha of which is exported to a great extent. Many other branches of agriculture would flourish in this district, the fertility of which is perhaps unequalled, and not materially infested with ants. The water-melon is here excellent, and oranges and lemons are abundant.

Belmonte is a town situated in the angle of the mouth of the river, which took its name, and which injures it occasionally, at the period of the greatest floods. It was first an aldeia of Christian Indians, and consists of three streets, in a line, with houses generally of earth. The church is called Our Lady of Carmo, and the people are of all complexions.

On the margin of the river Doce, near the outlet of the lake Juparana, is the increasing aldeia of Linhares, to which a vicar was appointed in 1815, in consequence of its inhabitants becoming numerous. With the view of impeding the invasions of the savages, as well as commencing new povoaçoes, were recently established the detachments of Arcos, near the margin of the river Belmonte, above the great fall; Aveiro, upon the river St. Cruz; Aquiar, in the district of Villaverde; Linhares, on the river Frade; Cunha, on the Cramimuan; Vimieyro, on the Jucurucu; Obidos, in the district of Alcobaca; Caparica, upon the river Peruhype; Araujo, upon the Mucury; Itahunas, upon the Guaxindiba, which discharges itself four miles north of the St. Mattheus; and Galveas, above the town of St. Mattheus, upon the margin of the river of that name. All the parochials of this province are in the jurisdiction of the bishopric of Rio de Janeiro.

In front of the bar of the river Caravellas, and forty miles from the coast, are the islands of St. Barbara, generally known by the name of Abrolhos, four in number, and a short distance from each other; the largest and most easterly is[308] two miles in length, and has some vegetation. Portions of a large shoal, which extends two hundred miles from east to west, in consequence of the dangers which they present to navigators, were called Abrolhos (“open the eyes.”) There is no water found upon these islands, and they are generally covered with marine birds. Upon these shoals the fishing of the garoupas is pursued, producing the next branch of exportation to farinha; this is a fish which does not exceed two palms in length, is very thick, of a green colour, without scales, has little bone, is very white, and is esteemed savory when fresh.

This province, which comprehends almost all the territory of the ancient capitania of its name, with that of the Ilheos, is bounded on the north by the provinces of Seregippe d’el Rey and Pernambuco; on the south, by those of Porto Seguro and Minas Geraes; on the west, by the province of Pernambuco, from which it is separated by the St. Francisco; and on the east, by the Atlantic Ocean. It extends from 10° to 16° south latitude, comprising three hundred and fifty miles from north to south, and about two hundred and forty miles in width from the coast to the town of Urubu, situated upon the margin of the St. Francisco.

Tradition and history announce four remarkable events anterior to the foundation of the capital, from which the colonization of the province commenced:—the shipwreck of Diogo Alvez Correa, that of a Castilian ship, the disembarkation of its only donatory, Francisco Peyreyra Coutinho, and his unfortunate end. None of the writers on this subject have assigned any distinct epoch to those circumstances, and the discordancy which obtains amongst them veils their relations in obscurity. The Jesuit Vasconcellos was the first who published, one hundred and fifty years after their occurrence, the adventures[310] of Diogo Alvez Correa, the Caramuru,[26] almost in the shape of a novel, and which subjects this portion of the early history of this province to incoherencies and doubts. The said Jesuit who asserted that he wrote from circumstantial documents, says he does not know whether the vessel of the shipwrecked Caramuru was proceeding to India or the capitania of St. Vincente, as he pretends that the latter was then in progress of colonization, by Martim Affonso de Souza, which, from concurring testimony, is an affirmation not founded in truth; Correa’s shipwreck having occurred in 1510, upwards of twenty years previous to that event; and the vessel was unquestionably either one of those included in the contract for Brazil wood, or in the progress of an exploration of the coast, and did not belong to any of the armaments destined for India.

The epoch of Correa’s shipwreck, who was a person of noble birth, and his being the first European settler at Bahia, is confirmed by the evidence of Herrera, who, in describing the misfortunes that attended the St. Pitta, one of two Spanish ships that sailed from St. Lucar, in September, 1534, (from which it would appear also, the shipwreck of the Spanish vessel before alluded to, happened in the year 1535,) says, “onde hallaron un Portuguez, que dixo, que avia veynte y cinco ãnos, que estava entre los Indios.”[27] A person now living at Porto Seguro has in his possession an ancient manuscript, which affirms that Gaspar de Lemos, on proceeding to Lisbon with despatches of Cabral’s new discovery, entered the river Ilheos and the Bay of All Saints; where some sailors went on shore, and were suddenly attacked by the Indians; that Diogo Alvez Correa, not having time to embark with his companions, fled to a place where he was soon found by those savages. This would make Correa the Caramuru’s residence near Bahia, to have commenced in 1500; but, as this circumstance is not alluded to in the authentic statements of Cabral’s expedition, it would still appear more probable that Correa was thrown amongst the Indians, in consequence of the shipwreck alluded to in 1510.

At the period when King John III. divided the Brazil into capitanias, Francisco Peyreyra Coutinho was in Portugal, having recently returned from India, where he had rendered important services to the state, in remuneration for which, the said King granted him a capitania of all the country which lay[311] between the point of Padrao, (now denominated St. Antonio,) and the St. Francisco, giving him afterwards the reconcave of the bay of All Saints. He proceeded in person to colonize this donation, with an armament fitted out at his own cost, and disembarked at the point of Padrao. He fortified himself on the site where the mother church of Our Lady of Victory is situated, and preserved a state of amity with the Indians for some years. Cultivation began to extend, and the more opulent and powerful settlers had already established sugar works, when the Tupinamba Indians commenced an inveterate and unceasing warfare for the period of seven or eight years against them, carrying destruction and famine amongst the sugar works and new establishments. Coutinho, with the small force which now remained, discovered the impossibility of repairing the evils his colony had sustained, and, consequently, determined to withdraw from the increasing enmity and attacks of the Indians, which he accomplished in one caravel, conducting the remains of the colony to the capitania of Ilheos, where the Portuguese settlers were living in a state of profound peace with the Tupininquin Indians.

The Tupinambas were a powerful tribe, and other hordes of Indians who previously occupied the territory around Bahia, had been compelled to give way to them. They affected to feel the circumstances attending the departure and absence of the Portuguese, to whom they proposed terms of friendship, which were acceded to. Coutinho lost no time in re-embarking for the bay of All Saints, where, on arriving at the entrance of the harbour, they were assailed by a tremendous gale of wind, which drove them on the shoals off the island of Itaparica, and all those who escaped on shore from the wreck were devoured by the cannibal Indians, (also of the Tupinamba tribe,) excepting Diogo Alvez Correa, who had accompanied Coutinho in his flight. Caramuru saved his life from the circumstance of speaking the Tupinamba language. He acquired considerable consequence amongst the Indians, and was elevated to the rank of a prince. The chiefs offered him their daughters in marriage, and his distinction was marked by the grant of a plurality of wives. His offspring was numerous, and even at this day some of the inhabitants of Bahia trace their origin to him.

In consequence of Coutinho’s misfortunes, the territory of Bahia became devoluto, unoccupied; and the same monarch being informed of the beauties and advantages of this fine bay, and the fertility of its adjacent country, determined to found a city there, which should become the capital of all the colonies, in order to afford them every necessary succour against the Indians, who were[312] at this period making universal progress in their attempts against the new settlers. An armament was accordingly prepared, of five ships, with six hundred volunteers, four hundred degradados, (criminals,) an abundant provision of every thing requisite for the foundation and defence of the colony, some Jesuitical priests, in order to catholicize the Indians, and many other sacerdotals for the administration of that faith. This important enterprise was intrusted to an illustrious individual named Thome de Souza, who had distinguished himself in Africa and India, and the jurisdiction of the Brazilian state, or New Lusitania, was conferred upon him under the title of governor general. By this measure the sovereign suspended and limited the power which had been given to the donatories of the different capitanias. Doctor Pedro Borges was appointed ouvidor general, to register the proceedings of all the capitanias. Antonio Cardozo de Barros, procurador of the royal treasury, (or attorney general,) and some servants of the king were to receive situations in the public offices.

The squadron left Lisbon on the 2d of February, 1549, and on the 29th of March, arrived in the port where the unfortunate donatory had been established, and a short distance from the place then occupied by Correa. The situation of Coutinho’s establishment did not appear to Thome de Souza to be well selected; and he commenced the projected city in the place where the chapel of Our Lady d’ Ajuda is situated, about a mile further to the north, against the votes of some individuals who preferred the site of Montserrat.

In the following year a galliot was ordered out, laden with European animals, commanded by Simon da Gama; and in the year 1551, the same succour was furnished by a squadron, of which Antonio d’ Oliveira was commander: he brought some young females of noble extraction, from the orphan establishment, strongly recommended by Queen Donna Catharina to the governor, in order that they might be betrothed in marriage, with certain portions, to the principal persons of the state. Similar assistance was annually continued, during the quadrennial government of the first governor and of his successor Duarthe de Costa. The Jesuits, at the head of whom was the celebrated P. M. Nobrega, pursued their purpose of civilizing and introducing Christianity amongst the Indians, through the imposing medium of ceremonies, parade, and pomp, with remarkable and continued success, up to the period of the general expulsion of their sect: and the colonists of Brazil, particularly those of this province, are indebted most materially for the reduction of many of the hordes of Indians who occupied the coast, to the great influence which the Jesuits acquired over them.[313] Duarthe da Costa was succeeded in 1558, by Mendo de Sa, who obtained the government for fourteen years, during which period this province advanced considerably. He also afforded assistance to all the capitanias whose colonization was opposed by the Indians. This province is divided into three comarcas—Ilheos, Jacobina, and Bahia.

Comarca of the Ilheos.

This comarca, which extends from the river Jiquirica to the Belmonte or Jiquitinhonha, occupies the territory of the suppressed capitania of the same name, which at first took in an extent of fifty leagues of coast, from the embouchure of the Jaguaripe opposite the southern point of the island of Itaparica (afterwards from the island of Tinhare,) to the commencement of the capitania of Pedro do C. Tourinho. Its first donatory was George de Figueyredo Correa, a fidalgo of the King, and escrivam of the treasury (or chancellor of the exchequer.) The public situation which he held prevented his going personally to colonize it; he therefore nominated a Spanish cavalier, Francisco Rameiro, and intrusted him with the command of an armament equipped with every thing requisite for the purpose, and which arrived safe in the port of the island of Tinhare. Here Rameiro founded a town upon the morro of St. Paulo; but, becoming disgusted with the situation he had chosen, the colony was removed to the river of Ilheos, where a new town was commenced, and received the name of St. George, in honour of the proprietor. War was maintained against the Indians for a few years, but being a tribe of the Tupininquins, who possessed much more docility of character than any of the others, friendship was at last established with them; and the harmony which afterwards prevailed tended greatly to the augmentation of the capitania, and many rich men of Lisbon ordered sugar-works to be erected, which produced a rapid increase of population and commerce.

Jeronimo Alarcao succeeded his father, Figueyredo Correa, and shortly afterwards, by royal consent, he sold this capitania to Lucas Giraldes, who expended a considerable capital in its improvement, which was, however, rendered futile in consequence of the destruction occasioned by the Aimbores, who fell upon his people, killed a great many, and compelled the rest to retire to Bahia. Mendo de Sa went personally to succour the unfortunate colonists, and carried havoc amongst the Indians, about the year 1570.

One of the successors of Lucas Geraldes transferred this capitania to D. Ellena de Castro, for the payment of a debt; in the possession of which illustrious[314] family it remained till the year 1771, when Joseph I. incorporated it with the crown lands, giving to Don Antonio de Castro, the last donatory, the countship of Rezende, and an admiralship, with a revenue of five thousand crusades. It is a mountainous country, almost universally covered with wild woods and forests, which produce a diversity of timber for building, cabinet work, and dye-woods. The frequent rains contribute much to the growth of the woods, which preserve the soil in a state of moisture. There is scarcely any situation where mandioca, the coffee tree, rice, Indian corn, the sugar cane, and cotton tree do not prosper. They are the principal articles of cultivation. The culture of indigo might be rendered lucrative, as well as cocoa and pechurim. Although the country produces them spontaneously, the latter is not so full grown as that of Para.

Mountains.—The serra of Aimores originates in this comarca, where it commonly receives the name of Itaraca, and sometimes Goytaracas, or Baytaracas; in many parts it is uneven and broken, in some it approaches the sea, and in others stretches far into the interior. Between the rivers Ilheos and Contas it is parallel with and very near to the beach. All the other mountains are ramifications of this; and almost all parts, particularly the Beira-mar, or sea-coast, are dressed in verdant woods.

Mineralogy.—Granite, limestone, potters’ earth, crystals, and gold in the western district of the province.

Phytology.—Amongst medicinal plants are found ipecacuanha, alcacuz, contrayerva, (used against poisons,) butua, jesuits’ bark, jalap, tamarind, milhomens, or basil root, curucu, barbatimao, curcuma, or turmerick, betony. The gum trees are gum-copal, dragons’ blood, angelem, and mastick. Amongst the trees of good timber for building are macaranduba, tapinhuan, vinhatica, loiro, jinipapo, itapicuru, cedar, pilia, hybicuhyba, sassafras, angico, gonsalo-alves, bow wood, oil wood, iron wood, violet wood, sucupira, sapucaya, caixete, coroçao de negro, (negro’s heart,) and Brazil wood. There are also trees of cupahiba, suma-uma, cajue-nut, jabuticaha, mangaba, the goyaba, araticu, and a diversity of palms. The Asiatic cocoa-nut tree is very abundant in the proximity of the shore. The piassaba tree, common in the woods, furnishes a lucrative branch of commerce in its flax for cables; of its nut various turnery articles are made. The nayha tree, as large as the first, grows in the interior, and sustains with its nuts a variety of birds, principally the arrara, and quadrupeds; they are little inferior to the cocoa, the inside being very sweet.

Zoology.—All parts of the comarca are generally deficient in domestic[315] animals; hogs, which are the most numerous, fly to the mountains, in certain moons, and do not re-appear till after some days. In the woods are the deer, anta, boar, and other game. The wild dog has been known in this district only a few years. The mutun, jacu, macuco partridge, and tucano are common; as well as the arraponga, and various sorts of the turtle-dove. The cayrua is of the size of a blackbird, blue on the back, with the breast purple, the wings and tail black, the beak short and broad; the feathers of the breast, when placed before the heat of a fire, assume the colour of gold; but the Author of Nature has not destined this bird, so esteemed for its plumage, to delight the ear. Various species of bees produce honey spontaneously, some in the cavities of the trunks of trees, others in little hives of wax which they form in the twigs.

The Tupininquin tribe, who possessed the sea-coast when the colonists established themselves in this comarca, (ci-devant capitania,) have been partially Christianized for many years; and, having intermarried with the Europeans, a portion of the population exhibit a mixture of the Tupininquin physiognomy.

In the certam there existed for some ages two nations, denominated Patachos, or Cotochos, and Mongoyos; the former is at present unknown.

The Mongoyos, reduced in the year 1806, are divided into six or seven aldeias, thinly peopled in their vicinity, and to the north of the river Patype. Each family lives in its cabana. They cultivate various sorts of roots, besides excellent mandioca, and water-melons. They are very extravagant of honey in their method of taking it from the hives. They clear away all the wax, as well as the bees, which they find in the cells, and strain the whole through a sort of sifter; the wax and bees are subsequently distilled in a certain portion of water, which ferments and produces a beverage, which when taken copiously leads them on from intoxication to fury. They make even a more spirituous drink from a sort of potato, and the root of mandioca pounded, and infused to the point of fermentation. The fathers give names to their new-born sons without any ceremony whatever. They weep over the dead, and inter them seated in a naked state. They dance and sing to the sound of an instrument as simple as inharmonious, and in the form of a bow with a slender cord. The women wear a well made cotton fringe, which reaches almost to the knees; the men a girdle made of palm leaves, and have no other covering upon their well proportioned bodies. They spend a great portion of their time wandering in the woods, hunting, and gathering fruits. The manufacture of earthen vessels is the only handicraft which they exercise. They use the skins of deer for bags. The dog is the most useful domestic animal in their estimation, and[316] the only one which they breed for the purpose of hunting. They covet nothing so much of the Christians as instruments of iron. Their medicine consists in plasters of pounded herbs, baths, and beverages of others boiled; all derived from the experience or tradition of their ancestors. The bow and arrow are their only arms, both for war and hunting; those who have been catechised prefer the gun.

Rivers and Lakes.—The most considerable is the river Contas, primarily called Jussiappe. It originates and receives its first confluents in the comarca of Jacobina. The streams that incorporate with it in this comarca, by the northern margin, are the Preto, Pedras, Manageru, the small Area, Pires, Agua Branca, (White Water,) and the Orico Guassu, which generally traverse extensive forests, exhibiting few signs of colonization or cultivation. It receives by the southern bank the Grugungy, little inferior to it, the principal branch of which is the Salina. The Patacho Indians are masters of its adjacent territory. Below this confluence is the situation called Funis, where the river runs with divided rapidity, almost hid amongst stones, and discharges itself thirty-five miles south of Point Mutta, and about the same distance north of the Ilheos. Sumacas proceed fifteen miles up it to the first fall, where there is a populous aldeia, with a hermitage.

The Patype, which has its source in the comarca of Serro Frio, and there has the name of Pardo, runs through a stony bed, with numerous falls, which renders it unnavigable. Its mouth is ten miles to the north of the river Belmonte, with which it communicates in two places by the channels of Jundiahy and of Salsa, which latter, about twenty-eight miles from the sea, divides its waters between the Patype and the Belmonte.

About five miles from the Salsa is the deep and circular lake of Antimucuy, abounding with fish, and having two outlets into the Belmonte.

Ten miles north of the Patype is the Poxim, and about the same distance from the latter the Commandatuba.

Fifteen miles north of the Commandatuba is emptied the Una, which rises in the Aimore mountains, and gathers by its right bank the Braco do Sul, that flows also from the same serra. Sumacas advance nearly ten miles above this confluence, which is about three miles distant from the sea.

The river Ilheos is the entrance of a fine bay, into which various streams flow, navigable with the tide for a greater or less distance; but the only considerable one is the Cachoeira, along the banks of which is a fine flat roadway, nearly half the distance of its extent. The Engenho is navigable for the space[317] of eight miles to the base of a beautiful cascade. The others are all small. The bar of the Ilheos is pointed out by four islands; three are very rocky, the other is robed in verdant woods, and the whole are of moderate elevation.

Three miles north of the bar of Ilheos is that of the Itahype, which is narrow and deep, not having more than twenty-five miles of extent, being the outlet of a deep lake of the same name. It is seven miles in circumference, and three in width, with a small island, and is bordered with woods and forests, from whence issue several small streams into this fine receptacle. The spontaneous woody productions of the banks of this lake might be conveyed with much facility to the bay of Ilheos, by opening a canal from the Itahype to the Fundao, and which undertaking had, in fact, at some former period been commenced.

In the northern part of this comarca are to be observed the rivers Marahu and Acarahy, which flow into the bay of Camamu; the Serenheham, which empties itself in front of the island of Boypeba; the Jiquie, which enters by two unequal mouths into the channel that separates the isle of Tinhare from the continent; the Una, which originates in the serra of Pedra Branca, (White Stone,) and runs into the sea a few leagues to the north of the Jiquie; and the Jiquirica, which descends from the serra Giboya, having its mouth a few miles to the north of the Una. The whole afford only a very short navigation, and the largest have not a course exceeding sixty miles, their waters being precipitated by numerous falls, and flowing through a country of a mountainous aspect, possessing fertile soil and forests of fine timber.

Ports and Islands.—The bay of Camamu, at the southern entrance of which is Point Mutta, with a fort, is the only port of the comarca capable of receiving large vessels. It is beautified with several islands, and has numerous streams navigable only as far as the tide advances.

From the bay of Camamu, nearly to the Una, the coast is bordered with islands; three of which, only, are of any considerable size, the Tinhare, the Boypeba, and the Tupiassu.

The island of Tinhare, better known by the name of Morro, in consequence of having a rock called the morro of St. Paulo, is eighteen miles long from north to south, of proportionable width, with a fort at its northern extremity, and near it a povoaçao, and hermitage of Our Lady da Luz.

The island of Boypeba, south of Tinhare, from which it is separated by a channel, is six miles square, and has a town on its eastern shore.

The island of Tupiassu, ten miles long from east to west, and half the width,[318] is between Tinhare and the continent, and the two branches of the river Jiquie.

Fifteen miles to the south of Boypeba is the small island of Quieppe, formerly fortified, and forming two unequal bars to the bay of Camamu.

Seven miles west of Quieppe, and almost in the centre of the bay, is the island of Camamu, elevated and of a circular form, two miles in diameter, and with some dwellers. It is now generally denominated the island Das Pedras, or Stones, which are found upon it in great quantities. They are of a ferruginous colour, and as heavy as lead; some have veins of silver, but not sufficient to repay the labour of its extraction. The fishermen of the southern coast make leads from it for their nets and lines.

Near ten miles north-north-east of Quieppe is the island of Tubaroes, larger than Camamu, well provided with water, possessing cocoa groves, and some inhabitants.

Ilheos, or St. George, now decayed, and formerly a considerable place, is on a plain upon the northern bank of the bay of the same name, between the two small hills of St. Antonio and Our Lady of Victory, which latter is the most distant from the sea. It has a church dedicated to the Invençao da Vera Cruz, a hermitage of Our Lady of St. Sebastian, near the beach, and one of Our Lady of Victory, upon the hill of that name. It is well supplied with fish, and the necessaries of life. The Jesuits had a college here, which serves for the municipal house. The suburbs are agreeable, and the port, which can receive large sumacas, is defended by various small forts. From hence is exported farinha, rice, coffee, spirits, timber, and some cocoa. There are two roads or tracks from this town, one already mentioned along the river Cachoeira to the comarca of Serro Frio, the other to Villa Nova do Principe, in the southern district of the comarca of Jacobina.

Olivença, nine miles to the south of Ilheos, is a large and populous Indian town, delightfully situated upon a small eminence, enjoying salubrious air, and an extensive view of the sea, between the mouths of two small rivers of unequal size. All the houses are covered with straw, and its inhabitants are generally occupied in works of turnery, by which they obtain nearly a thousand crusades annually. The church is a handsome stone building, denominated Our Lady[319] da Escada, and a bridge is over the larger stream, which washes the northern side of the town.

Rio de Contas is a middling town, well situated a little within the mouth and upon the southern margin of the river from which its name is derived, and that forms a very good port for the reception of sumacas between two rivers of very unequal magnitude, the waters of which are excellent for tempering iron. It has a church dedicated to St. Miguel, and a stone bridge over the larger river. The inhabitants are obliged by the camara to cultivate, under certain penalties, so many feet of mandioca, proportioned to the number of slaves which each farmer possesses. This arrangement produces considerable exportation of farinha to the capital.

Camamu is a town in a state of mediocrity, possessing some commerce, and agreeably situated upon the left bank of the Acarahy, ten miles above its embouchure, and opposite the mouth of the Cachoeira, which joins the former on the right. It possesses a church of Our Lady of Assumpçao, a hermitage of Our Lady of Desterro, and royal professors of Latin and the primitive letters. The exports are considerable in coffee, farinha, spirits, timber, rice, and cocoa. At this town a road terminates from the central part of the district of the town of Rio de Contas, from whence proceed numerous droves of oxen.

Marahu is a small town, well situated upon the margin and about twenty miles distant from the mouth of the river from which it derives the name, and by which small craft proceed up to its port. It has a church dedicated to St. Sebastian. The inhabitants produce much mandioca, and collect some timber. In its district are portions of soil particularly adapted to the produce of water-melons and pine-apples, which are very large and excellent, and are sent in considerable abundance to the capital.

Barcellos is also a small town, advantageously standing at the angle of the confluence of the small river Paratigy, with the Marahu, ten miles below the town of the same name. The inhabitants are Indians, cultivate mandioca and other necessaries of life peculiar to the country, and dress the flax of ticum. The church is entitled Our Lady of Candeias.

Serinhehem, commonly called Santarem, is a very small town, near the mouth of the stream of that name, and peopled with Indians, who are fishermen, agriculturists, and cutters of wood. St. Andre is the titular patron of its church.

Cayru, a town of medium size, pleasantly situated upon a small island of the same name, between those of Tinhare, Tupiassu, and the continent, has one[320] good paved street, with many houses of one story. At its extremity is a convent of St. Franciscans; also a church dedicated to Our Lady of Rozario, a hermitage of the Lady of Lapa, and royal schools of the primitive letters and Latin. Some ouvidors select this place for their residence; those now holding this appointment are also judges, conservators of the woods, and preside at a junta denominated Conservatoria.

Igrapiuna is an insignificant maritime town, at the mouth of the small river of the same name, between Santarem and Cayru. Its inhabitants are white, cultivators of rice, and other necessaries. It has a church of Our Lady of Griefs.

Boypeba, an old town upon the island from which it takes the name, is peopled by whites, who cultivate very little beyond the provisions of life. The church is dedicated to the Holy Spirit.

Valença is an increasing town, upon the northern margin of the Una, a little above its mouth. The church is dedicated to the Holy Heart of Jesus, and its inhabitants are Indians and European descendants. Coffee and timber are their productions.

About two miles from the lake of Itahype, and very agreeably situated, is the povoaçao of Almador, with a church of Our Lady of Conceiçao. The inhabitants are composed of whites and Indians, for the latter of whom the establishment was founded; they produce farinha and other necessaries, and are cutters of timber.

In a peninsula formed by the river Patype, near its mouth, and on the most fruitful soil, is the large parish of St. Boaventura. The inhabitants, who are also whites and Indians, grow abundance of rice, mandioca, feijao, and Indian corn; cut wood, possess some cattle, and are great fishers and hunters. The water-melons and pine-apples are here very excellent and large.

Comarca of Jacobina.

The comarca of Jacobina takes its name from the head town, and comprehends all the western part of the province, a considerable portion of which consists of catingas that are not susceptible of agriculture, but are appropriated alone to breeding cattle. Mountains of any considerable elevation are rare, and woods are seen only where the soil possesses some degree of substance, portions of which are cultivated with mandioca, Indian com, sugar, legumes, hortulans, and cotton. It is probable, from the considerable extent of this district, and the system which the government is now adopting, of forming the[321] provinces into comarcas, that it will be divided into two, in which event the town of Rio de Contas would be well suited for the head of the future comarca. And for the better delineation of the topography of the country, we will already consider it as divided into two equal parts, or districts, that of Jacobina to the north, and Rio de Contas to the south.

Mineralogy.—It possesses gold, brass, iron, and silver; saltpetre, mineral salt, potters’ earth, crystals, limestone, grindstone, and granite.

Mountains.—The serra of Almas for a considerable space divides the province from that of Minas Geraes.

The serra of Villavelha, near the town of Rio de Contas and the Pinga, a few leagues to the west of the latter, the highest portion of which, denominated the Morro das Almas, is seen from a considerable distance, and is frequently covered with fogs. Various torrents, which take different courses, have their origin in it.

The serra of Catulez, commencing a few leagues to the north of the Pinga, extends forty miles to the north-west, and terminates within twenty of the town of Urubu.

The serra of Montes Altos, (High Mountains,) which abounds with saltpetre, is prolonged from north to south, at a distance of about thirty-five miles from the river St. Francisco.

The serra of Cincura, which is a branch of the Aimores, extends almost to the northern extremity of the province, discontinuing entirely in various parts, and serving as a limit to the winter of the sea-coast, when it is there rainy.

In the district of Jacobina, is the Morro do Chapéo, (or Hat Rock,) so called from its similitude to a hat.

The serra of Thiuba, which possesses gold, and upon whose summit cold is sensibly felt, is in some parts covered with rocks, in others with woods; has many dwellers, and a hermitage of St. Gonçalo d’Amarante.

The serra of Paulista commands the view of a plain extending far to the eastward.

The serra of Borracha, otherwise Muribeca, is said to have abundance of brass, also some silver, and is not far distant from the celebrated fall of Paulo Affonso.

The serra of Riachinho is a portion of that of Cincura; those who come from the river St. Francisco, by the road of Joazeiro in the summer, passing this mountain soon find pasturage for their animals, on its eastern side.

Monte Santo, (Holy Mount,) so called from a hermitage upon it, has calcareous stone; and in its vicinity, nearly sixty miles north-west of Villa Nova, there is a large rock, or stone, almost all iron.

The serra Branca has a spring on the summit; that of Gado Brabo, (Wild Cattle,) has small streams, woods, and gold, and is partially inhabited. There are also the serras of Orobo, of Piedade, of Mangabeira, with large woods and plantations, and that of Boqueirao, in the vicinity of the river Verde.

Rivers.—The Paramirim is neither considerable nor perennial, descends from the Morro das Almas, runs north-west, and enters the St. Francisco above thirty miles below the arraial of Bomjardim, near a mountain, where there is grindstone. A little below the origin, it passes near a large and deep lake with which it communicates, and during the period of the inundations supplies it with much fish.

The Rans originates in the Montes Altos, and flows into the St. Francisco thirty miles above the chapel of Good Jesus of Lapa.

The Rio de Contas springs in the serra of Tromba, above twenty-eight miles north-west of the town of its name, and passing it at the distance of about eighteen miles, takes a course with little variation eastward; and, after flowing a considerable space, receives on the right the Brumado, also called Rio Contas Pequena, (the Little Contas,) which issues from the Morro das Almas, runs near the same town, and two miles below it forms a fine cascade. Twenty miles below this confluence, the Gaviao joins it on the same margin, and flows from the Morro do Chapeo, a portion of the afore-mentioned Serra das Almas, bringing with it the waters of the Antonio. Twenty miles lower, it receives, on the left, the considerable Cincura, which originates in the serra of the same name. We have already mentioned those rivers that join it on traversing the comarca of Ilheos, where it enters the ocean. The Paraguassuzinho, the Una, and the Andrahy, confluents of the Paraguassu, which latter flows into the bay of All Saints, originate in this district.

In the district of Jacobina, besides the three rivers of the same name, which form the Itapicuru, discharged into the sea on the coast of Bahia, is to be remarked the Jacuhype, which rises near the Morro do Chapeo, and runs into the Paraguassu, twelve miles above the town of Cachoeira. In its adjacent territory many cattle are bred, and lower down provisions and tobacco are cultivated.

The Verde, whose wholesome waters flow northward through an extensive[323] country, partially abounding with cattle, finally enters the St. Francisco near the passage from Pilao Arcado.

Phytology.—Where there are woods a variety of timber for building is met with, but in this district hitherto little used, in consequence of the great deficiency of population. The wood called sebastiao d’arruda is common in many places. Of wild fruits, the jabuticaba which is found in the woods only, and the ambuzo, alone met with in the catingas, are the most esteemed.

Zoology.—Amongst wild animals, the anta, the ounce, the boar, and the deer, are the most numerous species, and most hunted. Cattle are universally bred in this district, and would be more than adequate to the supply of the whole province, if winter weather prevailed here, or the thunder showers were regular in summer. It has been already observed that the winters of the Beira-mar, or sea-coast, do not extend more than ninety or one hundred miles into the interior of the continent, where it rains proportionably only with the thunder, which is generally not frequent, and at times almost fails in parts of the north. The sun is vertical twice a year throughout the province, and leaves the earth in a state of calcination: a few salutary showers animate the soil in two or three weeks to abundant production, and the cattle become fat; but the approach of dry weather as quickly dissipates all herbage, and the animals exist upon the branches of trees and shrubs, if they can obtain water; but if the tanks, which the thunder showers supply, and the torrents are dried up, a mortality necessarily prevails, and large numbers are swept off. Sheep and goats are not numerous, in consequence of being almost universally deemed animals of no utility.

In various parts of the district of Rio de Contas, the first discoverers found bones of an immense size, belonging to a class of animals that no longer existed.

Jacobina is a considerable town, and the ordinary residence of the ouvidor of the comarca. It is situated near the left bank of the southern Itapicuru, three miles below a lake, whose superfluous waters enlarge the river. It was created a town in 1723, by King John V. and consists of one large and good street, and other smaller ones. The houses are mostly of stone, and white-washed with a species of potters’ earth, found in the vicinity. It is traversed by the small stream Rio do Oiro, (Gold River,) which is passed by a bridge.[324] The nominal patron of the church is St. Antonio, there are also two hermitages, one dedicated to Good Jesus, the other to Our Lady of Rozario. It has a royal master of Latin, and had a smelting house whilst the mines were productive. In the adjacent country are bred cattle, good horses, hogs, sheep, and goats. The articles cultivated are sugar, cotton, tobacco of an excellent quality, wheat, Indian corn, and legumes. There are oranges, grapes, and small quinces, which latter are made into marmalade, and exported in small cases. Some of the inhabitants manufacture earthenware.

Villa Nova da Rainha, yet small, and possessing no advantages to warrant the expectation of its increase, is sixty miles north of Jacobina, and three from the Itapicuru Mirim. The houses are of earth and wood, and tiled. The church is of brick, and dedicated to the Senhor of Bom Fim. Cattle and cotton are the wealth of its inhabitants, who also cultivate Indian corn, rice, feijao, mandioca, and distil some spirits from the cane. The orange, lime, jaca, mango, banana, and pine trees are common, as are the mangaba, and pine-apple. In its district there are many crystals and saltpetre. Ten miles from it is the arraial of Matriz Velha, whose church is dedicated to St. Antonio, and is the most ancient in the comarca. The vicar resides at Villa Nova, and has a coadjutor here. About five miles from Villa Nova is the parish of the mission of Sahy, abounding with water. Its inhabitants are principally Indians. Our Lady of Neves is its titular patroness. In the district of Jacobina are yet the arraial of Figuras, formerly flourishing, but at present of little note; that of Saude; of Gamelleira, with a hermitage of Our Lady of Graça, near the river Jacuhype; of Joazeiro, more distinguished than extensive and upon the St. Francisco, in one of the most frequented tracks from Bahia to the province of Piauhy, with a chapel of Our Lady of Grotas. Higher up, and also upon the same river, is the parish of St. Joam Baptista, near Centoce, where much salt is made; St. Antonio de Pambu is much below Joazeiro; in its district is the magnificent fall of Paulo Affonso, and the Primerios Campos, (First Fields,) where there are rich mines of copper. The parish of Bom Jesus, or de Xique-xique, is also upon the banks of the St. Francisco, about fifty miles above the mouth of the river Verde.

Rio de Contas, a considerable town, upon the road from the capital to the province of Goyaz, was created by John V. in the year 1724, in consequence of the augmentation given to it by the discovery of gold mines, which some Paulistas made in the year 1718. It is in a plain, refreshed with salubrious air, upon the left margin of the Brumado. The houses are mostly constructed with[325] earth and adobe, or wood, are white-washed, and without regularity. The church is dedicated to the Holy Sacramento: it is the residence of a Juiz de Fora, also a royal master of Latin, and was commenced two leagues higher up upon the same river, where there yet exists a chapel of Our Lady of Livramento. The inhabitants, and those of its vast district, cultivate mandioca, Indian corn, rice, feijao, and tobacco, for the consumption of the country, also the cane, for which there are some engenhos and alembics. Little wealth exists in this district; those that in any degree possess it are traders, breeders of cattle, and cultivators of the cotton tree, which is here of excellent quality. The only European fruit is a small and insipid quince, from which is made a great quantity of marmalade. The nearest track or road from the town of Rio de Contas to Jacobina, not more than one hundred and thirty miles, is little frequented, in consequence of the catingas being uninhabited for want of water, which is not met with for several days’ journey. The travellers carry it in borrachas (leathern bottles.) The way usually frequented exceeds two hundred and thirty miles. In the district of this town are dispersed various chapels or hermitages, which in the course of time will become parochials, namely, in the serra of Montes Altos, in the arraials of Morro do Fogo, (Rock of Fire,) Furna, Bom Jesus, Catulez, and one of St. Antonio of Matto Grosso, six miles distant from the town of Rio de Contas, which is constructed of stone and served as a parochial for some years previous to the erection of the before-mentioned one of Our Lady of Livramento.

Villa Nova do Principe, antecedently Caytete, was created a town in the year 1810, and is in a situation refreshed with breezes, near a small stream which flows into the Antonio. It is nearly fifty miles to the west-south-west of Rio de Contas. The church is dedicated to St. Anna. In the adjacent territory many cattle are bred, and there are more extensive plantations of cotton than in any other part of the province. Within its district is the chapel of Our Lady of Boa Viagem.

Urubu, yet a small town, in an advantageous situation upon the St. Francisco, is ornamented with a stone church of St. Antonio and a hermitage of Our Lady of Rozario. The inhabitants, having no fountains, use the water of the river, which also supplies them with fish; they breed cattle, and have some plantations of cane, and raise the necessaries of life in such parts of its vicinity as are not deficient in water. It is about seventy miles north-west of Rio de Contas.

Thirty-five miles to the north, upon the same river, is the small arraial of Bom Jardim, with a hermitage of Our Lady of Bom Successo. The people who inhabit it breed cattle, are agriculturists and fishermen. Fifty miles from the town of Urubu is the celebrated chapel of Bom Jesus da Lapa, but which does not correspond with the description given of it by the exaggerating pen of Rocha Pitta. It is a vast cavern, and one of the many curious operations which Nature has displayed in this region, having some similitude to the form of a temple, into which it was converted, being interestingly situated in the skirts of a mount of rock, about a mile in circumference, upon the margin of the St. Francisco. It has an effective chaplain and a good patrimony. Not far from it there is a small povoaçao.

Comarca of Bahia.

The comarca of Bahia comprises upwards of one hundred and forty miles of coast, computing from the river Jiquirica, which empties itself ten miles west-south-west of Barra-Falsa, to the Rio Real, the northern limit of the province, and one hundred and twenty miles in width, being bounded on the west by the comarca of Jacobina. The face of the country is varied by woods, small hills, a few serras, and catingas, or charnecas, which occupy more than one half of it, and where cattle alone are raised. It is not however without tracts of substantial soil, upon the summits principally of the serras, in the profoundest valleys, and in the vicinity of rivers, where fine trees grow, and where (after they are cleared away) plantations are formed of mandioca, tobacco, cotton, and millet.

The best land of the comarca is that called the Reconcave, from twenty to thirty-five miles in width, immediately surrounding the fine and picturesque bay of All Saints, (the harbour of its capital,) where considerable estates are appropriated to the culture principally of the sugar-cane and tobacco, productions which in no other province of the state are afforded in such quantity; the soil called massapé, black and strong, is deemed the best for the growth of the cane. The winter, or rainy season, commences about the end of March and continues till August, with considerable intervals of summer weather, and never extends to the western extremity, where it rains only with thunder, which is pretty general, and continues whilst the sun is southward of the equator.

Mountains.—The principal serras are from the river Paraguassu southward; the most remarkable are the Giboya, the Itapera, the Mangabeira, the Bocetas, the Gayru, the Pedra Branca, and the Cupioba. On the left of[327] the same river, at a considerable distance from it, is the Camizao, covered with extensive woods, where cotton plantations and other objects of agriculture flourish.

Mineralogy.—Granite, argils of different colours, gold, and iron, but only in small quantities.

Phytology.—Of European trees, the fig only flourishes. The mango tree is very numerous in some situations, and produces fruit in perfection and abundance; the jaca is very common; the mangaba tree is universally known; the jabuticaba prospers only in the woods, and the ambuzo in the catingas. Water-melons are generally very large and good, but melons are bad. There are various sorts of oranges, the best are the embigos, which have no seed, and those called seccas. There are a variety of indigenous spices and peppers, as well as those from Malabar; also ginger, jalap, urucu, angelim, and the opuncia, of which there are various species and names, some are almost of the form of a tree, and produce a fruit resembling a large pear, with a smooth thin skin of a reddish hue, and a white, soft, and cooling pulp, containing seed.

There is a variety of fine timber, such as the jacaranda, vinhatica, masaranduba, piquia, sucupira, sapucaya, paroba, itapicuru, sebastiao d’ arruda, gonsalo alves, bow wood, Brazil wood, brauna, mulberry, whose trunk is used in dying, and the leaves nourish a species of indigenous bombice, or silk worm, the cultivation of which might be rendered lucrative. Amongst various sorts of palm trees, the one best known by that name is the handsomest; its trunk is high and of great thickness, very smooth and straight, with branches of prodigious size, and growing only in the humid soil of the woods. There are also the cupahyba and gum-mastick trees. The cajue-nut tree is very abundant. The cane, mandioca, tobacco, and cotton, are the principal branches of agriculture, which have produced a considerable diminution of the largest forests and woods, particularly in the environs of the Reconcave; the growth of coffee is pretty extensive.

Zoology.—All the wild quadrupeds of the adjoining provinces are known here: sheep and goats are far from being numerous. Cattle, which are bred generally in all parts beyond the Reconcave, are not, even with the addition of those from the comarca of Jacobina, adequate to the supply of the engenhos, the usual consumption, and the furnishing of ships, in consequence of the pastures being generally bad, and the frequent want of water. The deficiency is supplied from the provinces of Piauhy and Goyaz.

The ancient Quinnimura Indians were the first memorable possessors of the Reconcave, or country surrounding the bay of All Saints. They were succeeded[328] by the Tappuyas, which tribe was soon afterwards expelled by the Tuppinas, who came from the certams, whither the others retired; but they never ceased to annoy and to afford great inquietude to their conquerors. The Tupinambas, who were masters of both banks of the St. Francisco, being at war with the neighbouring Tuppinas, dispersed them, and marching forward expelled the last conquerors of the Reconcave, and compelled them to fly in their turn to the certams. The Tappuyas and the Tuppinas uniting, marched upon the Tupinamba tribe, but were effectually repulsed; and from that period to the arrival of the Portuguese in the bay of All Saints, and their final establishment at Bahia, the Reconcave remained in the possession of the Tupinambas. They were divided into various independent hordes and declared enemies on all occasions to the injurers of any one of them. The same idiom prevailed amongst them, and each elected the most powerful individual for its war captain, who in peace received no superior distinction. They were a race of anthropophagi.

The only port of this comarca is the famous bay of All Saints, which is twenty-three miles long from north to south, computing from the point of St. Antonio, to the mouth of the river Pitanga, and near thirty wide from east to west. The island of Itaparica forms two entrances, open to the south, the eastern is about eight miles wide, and the western, called Barra-Falsa (False Bar,) is under two at the narrowest part. The margins of the bay are flat, and beautified in most parts with groves of cocoa-nut trees; the most elevated portion of it presents the site of the capital, St. Salvador, commonly called Bahia.

Islands.—All the islands of this comarca are within the bay of All Saints; that of Itaparica is the largest, being twenty-three miles long from north to south, and ten in the widest part. It is of an irregular form, having a bay on the western side, and a large curving projection on the eastern, with considerable inequality of surface. Its soil in great part is adapted for various branches of agriculture. The cocoa-nut, the mango, the jaca, and orange trees, are abundant; the vine produces in perfection. It is divided into the two parishes of St. Amaro, on the southern side, and Santissimo Sacramento, at the northern extremity; the latter is a considerable povoaçao, the only one in the island, and yet without the title of town, also without regularity, but with a handsome church, a hermitage of St. Gonçalo, a fort, a good anchorage place for small vessels, sheltered from the east winds, and at a short distance an abundant fountain of excellent water. It has also a whale fishery, cord manufactories of the piassaba, (a sort of black rush,) and some alembics. For the instruction[329] of youth there are royal professors of the primitive letters and Latin. This island, which belongs to the Marquis de Niza, and in whose territory the first annual payments in the state began, was given by Thome de Souza to Don Antonio d’ Athayde, Count of Castanheira, and afterwards made part of the capitania, which the King gave to him, comprehending the territory between the rivers Paraguassu and Jaguarype, with thirty-five miles of certam. About two miles distant from the povoaçao there is a chapel called Vera Cruz, which was formerly the mother church.

About three miles north of Itaparica is the island Dos Frades, which is mountainous, and four miles in length; a little to the north of it is the island of Bom Jesus, with a chapel of the same name, and another of Our Lady of Loreto. Further north is the island Das Vaccas, two miles long; to the east of it is that of Menino Deos, which is small. North of Vaccas is the island of Bimbarra, and further in the same direction that of Fontes.

The island of Mare, whose soil is mainly appropriated to the culture of bananas, the support of its inhabitants, is five miles long, little less in width, having its eastern extremity near the main land. The isle of Cajahyba, three miles long, low, and cultivated, is situated at the western extremity of the bay.

The island of Medo, which is very small, flat, and covered with cocoa-nut trees, lies west of the northern end of Itaparica.

Between the western side of Itaparica and the continent there are many islands, mostly small, flat, and uninhabited, in the proximity of the bar. Those of Cal and Cannas are the largest.

Rivers.—About three or four miles to the north-east of the point of St. Antonio is discharged the Vermelho, which does not exceed a rivulet, and is of very little extent. The road from the capital to Itapuan crosses it by a stone bridge.

Eight miles to the north-east of the river Vermelho is the bay of Itapuan, with a whale fishery. Between this bay and the said river there are fisheries which furnish the capital with fish.

Ten miles onward to the north-east is the mouth of the river Joannes, which originates in the district of the town of St. Francisco.

About ten miles further is the embouchure of the Jacuhype, which comes from a great distance, as also the Pojuca, which follows it.

The Itapicuru is formed in the comarca of Jacobina, by three streams of the same name. The southern one is called Guassu, or Large, and the northern Mirim, or Small. It flows uniformly towards the east, passes the arraial of St. Antonio of the Queimadas, by the town and arraial of its name, and discharges[330] itself into the ocean ten or twelve miles to the south-west of Rio Real. Within its dangerous bar there is a bay; the navigation is short, and only for small craft. Its adjacent country is mostly of the catinga kind, serving only for breeding cattle.

The Jaguaripe, originating on the borders of the road to the mines, about forty miles west of the town of Cachoeira, in the situation of Curralinho, flows into the bay at Barra Falsa, affording navigation to large barks, for the space of twenty miles.

The river Paraguassu rises in the vicinity of the serra Chapada, about the centre of the district of the town of Rio de Contas. The small streams Cocho and Encantada, (Enchanted,) which flow from a lake of the latter name, so called from having a floating island, are the first confluents which it receives on the left; the Paraguassusinho (the Little Paraguassu) is the first on the right. The largest of the rivers that join it on the left is the Andrahy, which flows from the vicinity of the serra of Orobo. Not far from the mouth of this river a small stream enters the Paraguassu, which a little above re-appears, having flowed for some miles hid under solid ground. About twenty miles below the large cascade formed by its waters traversing the serra of Cincura, the Una joins it on the right, being the only abundant stream that enters on that side, and whose black waters change the crystalline Paraguassu to a yellowish colour. The Capibary and the Peixe enter it on the left, also the Jacuhype, which rises in the district of Jacobina. Twelve miles above the last confluence is the fall of Timbora, less than that of Cincura. This river passes the towns of Cachoeira and Maragogype, and discharges by a large mouth into the western side of the bay of All Saints. The water is excellent; but ought not to be drank till kept twenty-four hours. The occupiers of the central part of its banks are frequently attacked with fevers, which are often fatal.

The Serigy, or Serzipe, originates in the plains of Cachoeira, receives the Subahe, which is equal to it, on the left, and, after ten or twelve miles more, runs into the bay of All Saints, opposite the island of Cajahyba.

A few miles to the west of the Serigy is the mouth of the Sararahy, also called Assu, or Acupe, which becomes a small stream where the tide terminates. The Piraja empties itself almost in the middle of the eastern side of the bay.

Near the extremity of the same side, the Matuin flows into the bay in front of the Island of Mare, and has a fine bay within its bar.

The Pitanga and the Paranna Mirim also add their might to the waters of the[331] bay of All Saints, the first in front of the island of Mare, and the other opposite that of Fontes. Rocha Pitta represents them as large rivers, but they are small streams, and alone assume the appearance of rivers for the short space that the tide advances. Barks enter the whole, and convey from them sugar in cases, &c. to Bahia.

Abrantes, situated a mile from the left margin of the Joannes, three from the sea, and twenty north-east of the capital, is a small town, with a church of Espirito Santo. The inhabitants, chiefly Indians, for whose ancestors it was founded, are cultivators of mandioca and other necessaries of life, and follow their ancient habits of hunting and fishing.

Aguafria, a small town, ninety miles north of Bahia, has its church dedicated to St. Joam Baptista. Within its district are various hermitages; and tobacco, mandioca, the cane, and cattle are raised.

Itapicuru, a small town, seventy-five miles from the coast, and within a mile of the left bank of the Itapicuru, has a church of Our Lady of Nazareth. Cattle forms the only wealth of its inhabitants; and the river not being navigable, added to the sterility of the land, there is no probability of its augmentation.

Itapicuru Grande is a considerable and flourishing arraial, with a church of Our Lady of Rozario, situated upon the right bank, and thirty-five miles above the mouth of the river of the same name. Cattle and cotton are its only branches of commerce.

Pombal, originally Cannabraba, and founded by the Jesuits for the habitation of Christianized Indians, is eighteen miles from the river Itapicuru, in a district adapted to a diversity of productions. Santa Thereza is the patroness of its church.

Soyre, formerly Natuba, is eight miles from the right bank of the Itapicuru, and thirty west of the town of that name. It has a church of Our Lady of Conceiçao, and the inhabitants, composed of whites and Indians, cultivate the necessaries of life and cotton.

Further into the interior is the considerable arraial of St. Antonio das Queimadas,[332] situated along the margin of the Itapicuru, with a chapel of the same name. Its inhabitants are breeders of cattle.

Tucano, a parish and julgado, with a church of St. Anna, is eight miles from the river Itapicuru.

Mirandella, formerly called Saccodos Morcegos, is eighteen miles from Pombal, and has a church dedicated to the Ascension of the Lord. Its inhabitants produce a sufficiency of the necessaries of life.

Abbadia, a middling town upon the margin of the Ariquitiba, the last tributary of the Rio Real, is eighteen miles distant from the sea, has a good port where sumacas arrive, that export sugar, cotton, tobacco, and much farinha. The inhabitants are whites and Indians.

Inhambupe is forty miles above the embouchure, and a short way from the right margin of the river of that name, with a church of Espirito Santo upon a steep, having an extensive view; within its precincts there is a chapel of St. Antonio, and two of Our Lady, with the titles of Conceiçao, and Prazeres. Its inhabitants exhibit a great diversity of complexion, and cultivate a very considerable quantity of good tobacco, and the provisions of life.

Villa do Conde, situated at the mouth of the river Inhambupe, has a church of Our Lady of the Mount. The inhabitants, consisting of all colours, cultivate mandioca, &c. with some sugar. Tobacco is the principal production; and fishing is here a general pursuit.

St. Francisco is one of the most ancient towns of the province, although yet small, with many edifices of stone, and has a church of St. Gonçalo d’Amarante, also a convent of Franciscans. It is about thirty miles north-west of Bahia, near the mouth of the river Serigy, in a gently rising situation, enjoying an extensive view of the sea. The inhabitants are much incommoded by musquitos, and its vast district has many sugar works, with extensive plantations of cane, to which the soil is propitious.

Santo Amaro, a large and flourishing town, situated along the right bank of the river Serigy, twelve miles above its embouchure, two below the mouth of the Subahe, and forty north-west of Bahia, has a church of Our Lady of Purificaçao, a hermitage of St. Braz, another of St. Gonçalo, four of Our Lady, namely, Amparo, Conceiçao, Rozario, and Humildes; good buildings, and a great number of alembics. The streets are principally paved, and there is a wooden bridge over the river. It is surrounded by small hills. The senate is presided by a Juiz de Fora, whose jurisdiction extends to the town of St. Francisco. For the instruction of youth, there are masters of the primitive letters[333] and Latin, with royal honours. The tide does not ascend higher than the town, and the port is at its commencement, from whence are exported large quantities of sugar, tobacco, spirits, and some cotton. Its district has many sugar works. The communication from hence with Bahia is short and easy, and the same tide which conveys barks from St. Amaro, will often conduct them to the capital.

Eight miles to the north-north-west is the parish of St. Gonçalo dos Campos, whose inhabitants are generally cultivators of the tobacco plant.

Maragogype, a considerable town, and advantageously situated near the left margin of the Guahy, a mile above its confluence with the Paraguassu, is ornamented, with a church of St. Bartholomew and four chapels dedicated to Our Lady, with the titles of Nazareth, Mares, Lapa do Saboeiro, and Lapa do Monte. It has royal professors of the primitive letters and Latin, a Juiz de Fora, a fountain of good water, tolerable houses, is encircled with hills and exports farinha, sugar, and tobacco. In the vicinity of this town there is armenian bole, and antimony.

The river Guahy, which brings the waters of the Capanema, is navigable for the space of ten miles.

The Paraguassu at this place is near two in width, and from it a branch runs north-east to the centre of the celebrated valley of Iguape, which is about five miles long, and of varied width; it is covered with plantations of the sugar-cane, for the growth of which it is deemed the best land that is known, being what is termed massapé, or a black and strong soil, which is, unquestionably, the most congenial to the cane. There are nearly twenty sugar-works within its narrow precincts, the proprietors of which are parishioners of Santiago, the church of which is a short way from the left bank of the Paraguassu, upon whose margin, not far distant, is also a convent, and novitiate-house of Franciscans.

Cachoeira, a flourishing and commercial town, is divided into two parts by the river Paraguassu; the largest, which is along the left or eastern bank, has the church of Our Lady of Rozario, a convent of slippered Carmelites, with a Terceira order subordinate to them, a chapel of Our Lady of Conceiçao, another of St. Pedro, a hospital of St. Joam de Deos, a fountain, and three small bridges of stone over two small rivers, the Pitanga, and Caquende, or Falleira, each of which has its sugar-works, but neither have a course of three miles. The municipal house is situated in the portion of the town, which has nearly ten thousand inhabitants. The western part, upon the right bank of the river, is traversed by two brooks, and has two churches, the one dedicated to[334] Menino Deos, the other to St. Feliz, from which latter it takes the name, and contains about two thousand inhabitants. Both portions are increasing; their edifices are of stone, and the streets paved. Here is collected and embarked the greatest portion of tobacco and cotton that is exported from the capital. It has a Juiz de Fora, and royal masters of the description so often mentioned, in which appointments there is not much advantage beyond the sound. The main part of its inhabitants are much incommoded at the period of the highest floods. The tide advances nearly two miles above the town, at whose extremity the river, eighty fathoms wide, with a wooden bridge over it, begins to have reefs, which form currents of little depth, and impede navigation. It is fifteen miles above Maragogipe, and something more to the west-south-west of St. Amaro. About two miles to the east of this town was found a piece of native copper, which weighed one thousand six hundred and sixty-six pounds, and is now in the royal museum, at Lisbon.

Three miles to the north-north-east of Cachoeira is the aldeia of Belem, so called from a chapel, which is the remains of a seminary there established by the Jesuits. Five miles to the south-west of the same town is the arraial and parish of Murityba, in an agreeable though flat situation, refreshed with salubrious air, and possessing good water. The soil is fertile, and well adapted to the tobacco plant, coffee, orange, and jaca trees, which are abundant. It was formerly a flourishing povoaçao. Besides the church, dedicated to the Chief of the Apostles, there is another of Our Lady of Rozario, both of stone: the houses are built of a sun-dried brick.

The jarrinha, or basil root, is very common, and indigo, known here only by the name of lingua de gallinha, (the tongue of a fowl,) grows spontaneously amongst other wild plants to the height of two feet. All the inhabitants of this parish are tobacco planters.

Eighteen miles to the west of Murityba is the serra of Apora, a mountain of considerable elevation, more than twelve miles in circuit, and near the road of the certam: in its vicinity is a hermitage of St. Joze. Fifteen miles to the westward is the small arraial of Ginipapo, with a chapel of stone dedicated to St. Joze, upon the border of the same road. A lake supplies water to all the living creatures of its district.

Jaguaripe is a middling town, pleasantly situated upon the right, and seven miles above the mouth of the river of its name, and two miles above the confluence of the Cahype, which passes it at a short distance to the southward. It has a church of the Lady of Ajuda, houses of earth, streets paved with bricks,[335] royal masters, and a Juiz de Fora, who is the same individual holding that situation at Maragogipe. The inhabitants are generally manufacturers of earthenware.

Fifteen miles above the Jaguaripe, along the left margin of the same river, is the large and flourishing parish of Our Lady of Nazareth. Large barks arrive here with the tide, and export farinha and other necessaries to the capital. The margins of the Jaguaripe in all this interval, have potteries for earthenware, which constitutes a considerable branch of commerce.

Joam Amaro, called a town, does not surpass a small aldeia, with houses of wood covered with straw, but well situated near the margin of the Paraguassu, upon the road to the interior, about one hundred and forty miles to the west of Murityba. It has a chapel of St. Antonio, built of stone, and covered with tiles, which served as a mother church to the first inhabitants, whilst the fevers did not compel them to retire. Peter II. (then Regent,) gave to the Paulista, Joam Amaro, licence to found it, together with the senhorio, or lordship, as a premium for having conquered the neighbouring Indians, who at that time had descended to the coast, and destroyed the crops of the inhabitants of Cayru.

The town of Pedra Branca is an Indian aldeia, situated in a flat portion of territory, upon the serra of the same name, and is eighteen miles west-south-west of the arraial of Ginipapo. The houses are of wood, covered with palms, and the church, dedicated to the Lady of Nazareth, is built of adobe, and roofed with tiles. The origin of it was about the year 1740, for the habitation of two tribes of Indians, one of them being Cayrirys. It is surrounded with large woods. Ants, many of a very large size, are numerous, and do much injury.

St. Salvador, better known by the name of Bahia, situated upon the eastern side, and near to the entrance of the bay, (or Bahia de Todos os Santos,[28]) is an archiepiscopal city, and the largest, most commercial, and flourishing in the Brazil, (now excepting Rio de Janeiro,) and is celebrated for having been for more than two centuries the residence of the governors general of this state; but the government, with the title of a vice-royalty, was transferred to the governors of Rio de Janeiro in the year 1763. This city is the grand emporium of all the produce of its partially populated comarcas,[336] already described, as well as the medium through which a portion of the productions of the circumjacent provinces are exported. Its situation, embracing all the commercial advantages of its rival port of Rio de Janeiro, will enable it, in the desirable march of improvement and civilization, of which this great country is yet so susceptible, to preserve its rank, at least of the second city in the Brazil.

It is nearly four miles long from north to south, including the suburb of Victoria in the southern extremity, and that of Bom Fim in the northern, and divided into two unequal parts, high and low; the higher and larger one situated upon an agreeable eminence, and the other at its western base, both without any regularity. The latter is denominated the Praya, in consequence of extending along the beach, and has not more than one street nearly the whole of its length, almost in the central part of which there are five that do not exceed two hundred and fifty paces in extent. Here is the seat of commerce, containing the stores of the merchants, and many capacious warehouses, denominated trapiches, for the reception of sugar, tobacco, cotton, and other exports; also a general deposit for farinha, grain, and legumes, called tulhas, where they are distributed to the people.

The lower town is divided into two parishes, the churches of which are both dedicated to Nossa Senhora, with the titles of Pilar and Conceiçao. The latter is a fine edifice with its front of European stone, and is richly decorated within. Near to it is the dock-yard and the marine arsenal.

The Cidade Alta, or High City, stands on elevated and uneven ground, the approaches to it, from the lower part, being exceedingly steep. The situation is commanding. The valleys and hortas, or country houses, in its vicinity, as well as the various trees of eternal verdure, give animation to the native beauty of its surrounding scenery. The houses are built with latticed windows and balconies. Sedans, of various forms, with canopies and embroidered curtains, are very numerous and convenient in ascending the steep streets, but attended with great labour to the slaves. These chairs are considered the most elegant in the Brazil. A better quality of meat is met with here than at Rio; and the fruits are very delicious, particularly the oranges, water-melons, and pine-apples, which are exposed to sale by black female slaves, who are also occupied in the disposal of doces, or sweetmeats, which are made in great perfection. This part of the city is divided into six parishes, with the churches of Nossa Senhora, of Victoria, St. Pedro, St. Anna, St. Antonio, SS. Sacramento, or Passo, and St. Salvador, which is the cathedral. There is a house of misericordia, with its [337]hospital for the cure of the poor, a recolhimento for white orphans, and a great number of chapels, many of which, as well as the churches, are splendid; they appear every where to be the only public objects which engross the peculiar consideration of the government and the people; and here, as in all other places, the respectable parishioners go in short cloaks of crimson and other colours about the streets uncovered, begging for the churches, with a long wand and an embroidered bag, with the figure of our Saviour upon it, in their hands. Churches and convents are nearly the only public establishments in all towns that are at all worthy of description, of which latter this city also has a numerous catalogue; namely, the monasteries of the slippered and unslippered Carmelites, of the Benedictines, and the Franciscans, which is the most sumptuous edifice of the whole; the alms and entertaining houses of Terra Santa, unslippered Agostinhos, slippered Carmelites, Benedictines, Franciscans, and Italian Barbadinhos; also four convents of nuns, two recolhimentos more; and four Terceira orders of St. Domingos, St. Francisco, Carmo, and SS. Trinidade.

The Jesuits had a magnificent college (the front of whose church is of European stone) occupying the best situation of the city, now converted into a military hospital, with a chapel in the interior ornamented with many paintings that represent the life of S. Estanislaw Kosca, and a school of surgery. The religious processions and festivities are much the same here as at Rio de Janeiro. The palace of the governor on one side commands a view of the port and the lower city, and fronts into the Praca da Parada, the eastern part of which is formed by the camara or council house. The archiepiscopal palace is of two stories, one side facing to the sea, and with a passage to the cathedral, which has a spacious nave: the chapter consists of eighteen canons.

There is a mint, a port admiral, an intendant of gold, a civil court of relaçam, presided by the governor, at present the Count de Palma. This court, created here by Philip I. in 1609, was abolished by Philip II. and re-established by John IV. in 1652. There is also an ecclesiastical court and a junta da fazenda real, (the treasury,) for the administration of the affairs of the province, composed of five deputies, viz. the chancellor of the relaçam, the port admiral, the procurator to coroa, (attorney-general,) the treasurer, and the escrivam, (chief of the treasury,) also presided by the governor; likewise another, called the house of inspection relative to commerce and agriculture, with an equal number of deputies, consisting of two merchants and two planters, one of tobacco the other of sugar, with a secretary; the intendant of gold is president. There are eight royal professorships of philosophy, rhetoric, mathematics,[338] Greek, Latin, &c. but they are far from diffusing the knowledge their high-sounding denominations would warrant the expectation of. There is also a public library in the ex-Jesuitical college, a printing press, the only one in the Brazil excepting one at Rio, a manufacture of glass, and a seminary for the meninos orfaos (young male orphans.)

Various forts defend this city on the sea side; amongst which may be remarked that of St. Marcello, of a circular form, with two batteries situated in the centre of the anchorage place. On the land side there is an extensive and deep lake, which, for a considerable period, served as a fosse, called the Dique, and where there are many alligators. This city was taken by the Dutch in 1634, and cannonaded by a force under Prince Nassau, without a similar result, in the year 1636.

In its eastern suburb is the hospital of Lazaretto, which was a house of recreation belonging to the Jesuits, and where there is a plantation of Malabar pimento trees, the finest, it is said, in the Brazil. The suburb of Bom Fim took its name from a chapel of that title, very agreeably situated. About two miles to the east is the parish of Our Lady of Penha, in the extremity of a peninsula where the archbishops have a country house, and where there is a dock-yard for the construction of large ships. This situation, called Tapagype, is beautified with a profusion of the airy cocoa-nut trees.

In the suburb of Victoria is the before-mentioned entertaining house of the Benedictines, in whose church of Our Lady of Graca is an epitaph relative to D. Catharina Alvarez, the daughter of an Indian chief, and one of the wives of Diogo Alvarez Correa, the Caramuru. She accompanied Correa to Europe, where they remained a short period and excited much interest at the French court, where she was christened, and called after Queen Catharine, relinquishing her name of Paraguassu, derived from the river already described. The epitaph is comprised in the following words:—

“Sepultura de D. Catharina Alvarez, Senhora desta Capitania da Bahia, a qual ella, e seu marido Diogo Alvarez Correa, natural de Vianna, deram aos Senhores Reys de Portugal: Fez, e deu esta Capella ao Patriarca St. Bento. Anno de 1582.”[29]

The society of this city is considered superior to that of Rio de Janeiro, and the[339] families appear to maintain a more social intercourse with strangers. Its population may be estimated at nearly one hundred and ten thousand, upwards of two-thirds of which are negroes, who, being of one nation and speaking the same idiom, with greater facility planned their insurrections, which till lately have frequently occurred, making it requisite for the governors to maintain a very rigid discipline over them. In the government of the Count de Ponta an order was issued that no negro should appear in the streets after Avi-Maria without a ticket from his owner, stating the object of his business; in default of which the penalty was one hundred and fifty lashes. This order had the salutary effect of preventing a great portion of them from wandering into the streets without some proper object.

The arrival of the late Queen and the present King here, in the year 1808, on their way to Rio de Janeiro, produced great joy, and the inhabitants voluntarily offered to erect a palace at their own expense for the royal family, if they would establish their court in this city.

The negroes conceived that the arrival of the Prince Regent relieved them from the restraints which they had been subjected to; and the bold and audacious character peculiar to this nation of Africans immediately led them to the determination of disclaiming the right of the governor to inflict the one hundred and fifty lashes, now that the Lord of the territory was come, and they ingeniously communicated their resolution to the governor in the two following poetical lines.

On the departure of the Royal Family, and as soon as the fleet had passed the bar, the Count de Ponta, adopting the style of the negroes, directed the two lines below to be posted up in every part of the city and suburbs, announcing to them that the one hundred and fifty lashes were resumed.

The Count de Ponta was succeeded in the governorship by the Count d’Arcos, a nobleman already spoken of. The rigid and necessary system pursued by his[340] predecessor was in some measure relaxed. The negroes had always on holidays and Sundays indulged, without restraint, in the customs and rude amusements peculiar to their native country. In Bahia they usually assembled in the praca, or square, in the upper city, and frequently selected one from amongst the rest who was dignified with the title of chief, and received all the homage bestowed upon a chief in their own country. A friend of mine, passing on a Sunday through this square, observed them going through the ceremony of executing, or putting to death, white men, which were represented by effigies dressed for the purpose; this was intended for the amusement of their chief, but that there was some ulterior object in this species of diversion, must have been manifest. In the course of a few months afterwards, a general revolt took place amongst them, in which they proclaimed the Count d’Arcos their prince, and threatened destruction to the rest of the whites. They had already commenced their operations before it was known to the governor, and were performing a bloody circuit around the vicinity of the city, and putting to death all the white persons met with at the different hortas. They were, however, very soon surrounded by the Count d’Arcos, at the head of what force he could assemble, and a great many forfeited their lives for this atrocious and sanguinary attempt, the consequences of which, had they succeeded, would have been horrible, as they would have murdered every white person in the place. Subsequent to this, orders were issued by the government, that the negroes throughout the state were to discontinue their public assemblages on holidays and Sundays.

A theatre was erected here about seventeen years ago, but the performances are not equal even to those at Rio. In the high city there is a public walk, with a mirador in the form of a veranda, from whence a view is commanded almost of the whole bay; near it there is a pyramid of European marble, erected in memory of the short stay the Royal Family made here on its way, in 1808, to the metropolis.

The commerce of this city stands next in extent to that of Rio de Janeiro, and the main portion of it passes through the medium of the English merchants, comprising nearly twenty establishments. Every description of British manufactured goods has an extensive sale; but the competition already stated to exist in the capital also prevails here, affording these importations to the native dealers much below their value: and the cultivators have another advantage over our merchants, in consequence of their being under the necessity of purchasing produce for the return cargo, bills upon Europe being with difficulty or seldom[341] obtained. The reader is already aware, from the statement of the productions of the province, that sugar, tobacco, and cotton, are the principal objects afforded to the merchant for the home shipments; and as eight-ninths of the cotton, some sugar, and tobacco, come to England, we will offer a few remarks relative to the quality and quantity of each article.

The crop of sugar in the year 1816 amounted to thirty thousand cases, averaging about forty arrobas each case; and the shipments between the 1st of October, 1817, and the same date in 1818, comprised twenty-six thousand one hundred and thirty-three packages, consisting of the denomination of branco and bruno (white and brown.) The new sugars begin to arrive here in the months of December and January, and some few in November. The most desirable months for purchasing sugar are from January to May, comprehending the summer season, when it is in an arid state, and the grain thereby improved; during the rainy months the sugar becomes succulent, and the grain inferior; in the early part of the first season also, the higher numbers of whites and browns are more abundant, the latter arrivals consisting of the lower numbers of both. The sugars are submitted to the inspection of the establishment before mentioned, and divided into the following numbers, according to quality, colour, and grain.

In addition to the above, a few boxes of whites are made of a superior quality, and rated as high as quinze, or fifteen. The best sugar in this market is produced in the Reconcave, arising, as has been before observed, from the excellent adaptation of its soil to the culture of the cane. These and others, coming from the interior to the bay, are denominated dentros, and are not generally so white as those termed foras, which come from without the bay, and are produced along the coast. The foras are much softer in grain, but, from their superiority in colour over the dentros, they obtain a preference in some markets; but not for Hamburgh or those places where sugar is used for refining.

An average crop of tobacco may be estimated at six hundred thousand arrobas; but in some years it almost fails, as in 1817, arising from the continued dry[342] weather which burnt up the plants; and for the year ending the 1st of October, 1818, only thirty-two thousand six hundred and eighty-one arrobas, were shipped. One-third, and more frequently one-half, of a tobacco crop is rejected as unfit for shipment to Europe.

Tobacco comes to market from January to March, principally through the medium of the towns of Cachoeira and Santo Amaro, where it is previously made up into rolls. The whole is accumulated in one government warehouse, where it undergoes a very rigid inspection, and is separated into approved and rejected portions; the latter is only shipped to the Portuguese possessions in Africa, and, since the abolition of their slave trade north of the Equator, where it was principally used, the price has fallen greatly, and very little of it is now taken in their outward cargoes to Cabinda, Angola, &c. which consist principally of coarse East India goods, a little rum, trinkets, &c.

The purchasing of tobacco is deemed by the merchants not only the most troublesome, but the most precarious branch of their dealings. Tobacco is usually bought before inspection, so that the merchant has all the trouble of that operation. The whole of the crop coming to market in a short period, and piled together in one warehouse, produces great confusion, rendering it very difficult to get at the lots agreed for; and when found, probably, only a few rolls turn out good, so that other lots are to be purchased, and another search undertaken to find them, attended with the same inconvenience as the first; and, in some instances, an examination of five or six hundred rolls will only afford twenty good ones. This delay is prejudicial to the interest of the merchant, in consequence of tobacco being a perishable article; besides, it is of the highest importance to get the shipments to Europe as early as possible, for not only do the first arrivals sell best, but, in the event of a stagnation occurring, the owner being compelled to retain this article, there is a great chance of its rotting upon his hands.[32] Previous to the shipments to Europe, the tobacco is opened,[343] fresh molasses put to it, and made up into rolls, averaging about fifteen arrobas each. The refuse shipped to Africa is made into rolls of about three arrobas each.

Leaf tobacco is a monopoly of the crown. After inspection, it takes the approved at a price proportionable to that of the roll, and it is shipped for Goa. The refuse remains with the planter, who is allowed to sell it to the merchants, and it is usually shipped to Lisbon.

The average crop of cotton for four years, up to and including 1816, was twenty-four thousand four hundred and forty bags; but the shipments for the year ending on the 1st of October, 1818, amounted to thirty-six thousand one hundred and thirty-nine bags.

The books of the public warehouses in this city are annually closed on the 1st of October, to ascertain the crops of produce; but at this time some of the old crop of cotton is not received, and it continues partially to arrive till the end of the year. In the month of February the new cotton comes to market abundantly, and in the course of the four following months the main part of the crop may be said to have arrived, with the exception above stated. The quality of the cotton varies according to the place in which it is grown; part of that sold in Bahia is produced in the southern part of the province of Pernambuco, and is distinguished, also, by the term of foras, as that of Bahia is by dentros. The former has materially the advantage over the latter in point of staple, being longer and more silky, also stronger; but its value is greatly reduced by the dirty state in which it arrives here, as well as by the frequent tricks of the planters, in putting seeds, and even staves, in the centre of the bags. These abuses have been unattended to, and the cotton inspection of Bahia is almost nominal; this flagrant neglect of the inspectors, so opposite to that of every other kind of produce, is supposed to be connived at by the governor, upon this ground, that, if the inspection was rigid and the planters were compelled to clean their cotton, they would then send it to the Pernambuco market, where it would command a higher price, by ranking as Pernambuco cotton, and thus prejudice the revenue of the town of Bahia.

The dentros, or those cottons grown within the province of Bahia, are a shorter, and not so silky or strong a staple as the foras, and have another material fault in being occasionally mixed with stained cotton, but they are much better cleaned, and in this respect they have of late years improved; whilst the foras have become even worse than they were, so that scarcely any difference exists between them as to price. The latter formerly sold at from two to three[344] hundred reas per arroba higher than the dentros. Exclusive of these two qualities some Minas Novas find their way to Bahia, and if of good quality sell on a par with them. The increase of the cotton crops has been retarded in consequence of some of the planters, a few years ago, turning their attention more to the produce of sugar, from the high prices then obtained for it.

A very great portion of the cotton denominated dentros comes from Villa Nova do Principe, in the comarca of Jacobina, a town possessing very considerable plantations of cotton in its surrounding territory; from whence it is conveyed to Cachoeira, upon the backs of horses and mules, in square packages, formed of raw hides, called malas, each containing three arrobas, (96 lb.) two of which constitute a horse-load, and are denominated by the Portuguese a carga.

At Villa Nova do Principe the cotton is sold at so much the carga of six arrobas, and varies in price according to the changes of the Bahia market, say from eight milreas upwards the carga, to this must be added the carriage to Cachoeira, which fluctuates according as horses and mules are plentiful, or otherwise, from eight milreas to fifteen the carga. From Cachoeira, as has been already remarked, it is conveyed in large boats to Bahia, at a freight of one hundred reas the carga; here it is put into bags, the expense of which is trifling, for the hide will sell for almost as much as buys the material for the bag, and the labour amounts only to one hundred and sixty reas[33] per bag, (not quite tenpence.)

Cotton is planted in the month of January or February, and gathered, say the first pluckings, about September. The same plants last three years, the second year being frequently more productive than the first; but in the third year the crop falls off, both in quantity and quality. After this the plants are destroyed, and the grounds lies fallow.

Some hides and rum are exported; and the following statement will show the number of ships, and the amount of produce they conveyed from hence, in the year ending on the 1st of October, 1818.

Bahia is considered by the English merchants a more agreeable place of residence than any of the maritime towns of the Brazil, and a more social intercourse has existed amongst themselves than at some of the other places. The city and residences in the vicinity are delightfully refreshed by the land and sea breezes, and the climate is deemed very healthy. There is an English hospital here, as at the other commercial towns of note, but there are generally few invalids.

Here, as in all parts of the Brazil, the females are much confined to the houses, and do not take free and open exercise; their domestic habits are slovenly and indolent; many, in the Turkish style, sit on the ground upon mats, while at work; they dress loosely; and to the general listlessness and prevailing custom of indulging in a sesta, or nap after dinner, may be attributed the gross and unshapely appearance of some of the Brazilian females. It would, however, be illiberal to include the whole in this description, as there are many fine women, and if better acquainted with the graces and the refinements of the fair sex, would be ornaments to any circle of society, having naturally much sprightliness and wit, if properly directed, and freed from the shackles of jealousy with which they are surrounded.

This city, on the 10th of February, 1821, followed the example of Para, in declaring itself for the new constitution of Portugal, and a resolution to that effect was publicly adopted in the camara, and signed by Conde de Palma, the governor, who however declined holding that situation longer. This measure was brought about principally by the military. Lieut.-Colonels Manuel Pedro de Freitas and Francisco de Paula, were its most active promoters. It is said, that thirteen of the military, including a major, were killed.

The conquest and colonization of this province was commenced in the government of Christovam de Barros, deputy-governor of Bahia, in 1590, in consequence of orders which he received from King Philip II. at the request of the inhabitants between Rio Real and Itapicuru, who lived in a state of great inquietude, as well from the Indians of the country as the French pirates, who frequented the coast in search of Brazil wood. It was for a considerable period a district of Bahia.

After a century had elapsed, it began to have ouvidors about the year 1696, at which period its diminutive population, involved in anarchy by a faction of some of the leading persons, disregarded entirely the orders of the governor-general. The leaders were prosecuted; but they obtained pardon of their Sovereign, upon condition of subjecting the Tupinambazes of the country, who had always been a considerable obstacle to the augmentation of the colony. They succeeded in subjugating the Indians in part, and the rest were reduced afterwards by the exertions of the Jesuitical missionaries, and established in various aldeias. This province has nearly ninety miles of coast from the Rio Real, which divides it from that of Bahia, to the St. Francisco, which separates it from Pernambuco, and nearly one hundred and forty miles in width, terminating almost in an angle at the small river Xingo, about eight miles below the great fall of Paulo Affonso.

It may be considered as divided into two parts—eastern and western. The first, which is about forty miles in width, is commonly distinguished by the appellation of Mattas, in consequence of its extensive woods, which are, however, diminishing considerably from the axe of the cultivator of the sugar cane and cotton tree; and the western part, which is larger, has acquired the denomination of Agrestes, from the sterility of its soil, commonly stony, with few woods or fertile lands, and very deficient in water.

The Agrestes, if we except some portions, principally in the proximity of the river St. Francisco, even where there are only small aldeias, besides the town of Propiba, and the parish of St. Pedro, is almost generally uncultivated, affording only scanty pasturage for cattle, a great part of which perish from hunger and thirst when the winter season passes over without much rain, as in the summer season scarcely the smallest rivulet or perennial fount is met with. In the eastern part or Mattas, where the rains are more frequent, the soil is substantial and fertile, and the country presents a more agreeable aspect of woods and partially cultivated lands.

Mountains.—The face of this province is generally flat, and, although uneven, there is scarcely one small hill or mountain of any considerable elevation; that of Itabayanna is the only remarkable one between the Rio Real and the Vazabarris, and, although thirty miles from the coast, is discovered at a great distance from the sea. Upon its summit there is a lake that is never dry, and from this mountain, which is affirmed to be rich in gold, various pure streams descend, forming a handsome river.

In the western part is the Serra Negra, little higher than its surrounding plains, and the Serra Tabanga, whose base is bathed by the St. Francisco, with which it is prolonged.

Rivers and Lakes.—The Rio Real, which has about one hundred and forty miles of course, is precipitated by various falls, and only affords navigation to the first, thirty miles from the sea; from this fall, downwards, to which the tide advances, the river is wide and deep, but above it is small, and its tributary heads are frequently dried up. It enters the sea twenty-five miles north-east of the Itapicuru, and receives, in the vicinity of its embouchure, the rivers Saguim, Guararema, and Piauhy, all by the left margin.

The Cotindiba is considerable only for the space of eighteen miles, which the tide advances up, affords sufficient depth for sumacas, is of great width, has its margins covered with mangroves, and, in the vicinity of the sea, with white sand, adorned in parts with very fine cocoa-nut trees. The greatest part of the sugar of this province is exported by the dangerous embouchure of this river, about eighteen miles to the north-east of Vazabarris, the shoals in front of which occasion a furious agitation of the sea, and it is only experienced navigators that can conduct sumacas with safety over the bar.

The Seregipe, which gives the name to this province, is larger and navigable for a greater space than the Cotindiba, with which it runs almost parallel, until united with it by the left margin, eight miles from the sea. In the interior of the[349] country it is inconsiderable. Serigp was its original name, and which it retained for many years after the conquest of the country.

The Vazabarris, after a long course, discharges itself into the famous bay of the same name, and affords navigation to smacks, with the aid of the tide, for twenty miles. It is twenty-five miles north-east of Rio Real, and Irapirang was its original name.

The Japaratuba is smaller than all the preceding rivers, and empties itself by two mouths, twenty-five miles to the north-east of the Cotindiba, and about the same distance to the south-west of the St. Francisco. Though the tide runs up for many leagues, it only affords navigation to canoes, in consequence of the little depth at its entrance.

The Poxim, which rises near the Vazabarris, and runs into the Cotindiba, near the sea, is navigable for canoes, which proceed many leagues up with the tide. In the vicinity of the river St. Francisco there are various lakes of great extent, upon the margins of which numerous collections of birds assemble, such as the colhereira, jaburu, sabacu, caroe, carauna, and the heron; upon the centre of their waters are seen immense flocks of wild ducks, and the mingua, a species of diver, which conceals the body below the surface, showing only its head, and part of its extraordinary neck, appearing like a snake.

Mineralogy.—Flint, potters’ clay, lime, and grindstone, a black ferruginous stone, gold, marine salt, crystals, slate, and blue stone.

Zoology.—There are all the species of domestic and wild animals of the neighbouring provinces. The anta is rare; the ounce has almost disappeared in the eastern part; deer are numerous, and the red guariba monkey. In all parts there are great quantities of bees of various kinds. There are many tatubollas, or armadillos, upon the left margin of the St. Francisco, which have been observed on being brought to the right bank frequently to die, or never to multiply. In the river St. Francisco there is a sort of fishing sparrowhawk, which dives in order to surprise the fish that descend the river; but when the prize is of a weight superior to its strength, it dies from suffocation, not being able to disengage itself. The wood-turkey is here very common, as is the small pavao, or peacock.

Phytology.—Amongst other trees which afford timber for building and joiners’ work, are the sucupira, iron wood, cedar, sapucaya, jiquitiba, uruçuca, white and green batinga, similar to the box-tree, conduru, gaiduno, quiri, itapicuru, pausangue, (blood wood,) juciranna, vinhatica, ejitahy, gonçalo alves, putumuju, masculine and feminine, arapiraca, bow wood, jinipapo, mastick, biriba, of the bark of[350] which tow is made for caulking. Amongst the medicinal plants, there are ipecacuanha, alcasus, paroba, Jesuits’ bark, orange tree of the country, cassia, and sanguinaria. Orange and other fruit trees are very scarce. Baunilha is a useful vegetable, and grows here spontaneously, but its cultivation is not attended to. The cocoa tree is unknown, although the soil is well adapted for it. The coffee tree, which is such a lucrative branch of commerce to its cultivators in the provinces of Bahia and Rio de Janeiro, is yet seen in few places, and there scantily.

Upon the margins of the river St. Francisco there is a tree, for whose primitive name was substituted that of mancanzeira by the Portuguese; the largest do not exceed the size of an orange tree, and generally have many trunks together of little height, with the leaf larger than those of a lemon tree, thick, elliptical, smooth, and of a dark green. In the same tree there is fruit in the form of a lemon-peel and a fig; but the greater part, and principally the largest, have the figure of large tomates, the size of a wild apple, the rind soft and full of pimples. The pulp is yellow, of an insipid taste, bitter, and smells like a quince. The smallest have an oval stone; the largest have four or more: the rind is hard, the kernel white and bitter. This fruit is not eaten, but is excellent as preserves, made similar to marmalade. This tree, which never surpasses a shrub in dry lands, is always heavily laden; and the troquaze pigeon and the land tortoise become fat upon the stones, after the fruit falls to the ground. The eastern portion of this province is in part appropriated to mandioca, Indian corn, feijao, cotton, and the sugar cane, for which there are near three hundred engenhos; these are objects of exportation as well as hides, flintstone, grindstone, cattle, horses, hogs, and the ticum palm. In this part there are extensive tracts almost covered with a small cane, with the leaves short, not exceeding the width of the wheat leaf, and the knots armed with sharp points, so that no quadruped enters or traverses the plantations. The oil of mamona is universally used for lights, and might become an abundant branch of exportation. The water-melon in few districts is large or good.

Seregipe, or St. Christovam, capital of the province, the residence of its governor and ouvidor, and having the title of a city, is well situated upon an elevation near the river Paramopama, which is an arm of the Vazabarris, eighteen miles from the sea, but does not surpass a town in a state of mediocrity. It has a convent of St. Franciscans, another of slippered Carmelites, and two Terceira orders attached to them; a chapel of Our Lady of Rozario, for the blacks; another of Amparo, for the mulattoes; a house of misericordia, a good town house, and a large bridge. All the public edifices are of stone. It has royal professors of the primitives and Latin, and abundance of good water. The orange, mango, and banana trees grow in its vicinity. Sumacas come up the river as far as this place to take in sugar and some cotton. This city, which was destroyed by the Dutch on the 25th of December, 1637, eight sugar works then in the province sharing the same fate, had its commencement upon the left margin and two miles above the embouchure of the Cotindiba, where yet are the ruins of the church called St. Christovam. It was removed from thence to a site between the river Poxim and the Cotindiba, situated at an equal distance from its first foundation and the place where it now stands.

St. Amaro, so called from the patron of its mother church, is a small town, thinly populated, and without commerce, although well situated and enjoying salubrious air, about one mile north of the confluence of the rivers Seregipe and Cotindiba.

Five miles west of it, the aldeia of Moruim, in the extremity of an arm of the Seregipe, is the depôt for a considerable quantity of sugar cases, and has a small market on Saturdays.

St. Luzia, agreeably situated upon a height near the river Guararema, (uniting itself eight miles lower with the Rio Real,) is inconsiderable, has a church dedicated to the same saint, a chapel of the Lady of Rozario, and exports the productions of the surrounding country.

Ten miles distant from it, the povoaçao of Estancia, the most populous and commercial of the whole province, without excepting the capital, is situated in a plain upon the left margin of the river Piauhy, abounding with excellent water, and has a chapel of Our Lady of Guadalupe, another of Rozario, and a bridge over the river. It is eighteen miles from the ocean, and the sumacas which enter by the bar of the Rio Real anchor in front of it, and export various articles of merchandise.

Itabaianna, situated in the vicinity of the serra of the same name, having a church of St. Antonio, is a small town, and celebrated for the race of small horses, bred in its extensive district, where cattle are also reared, as well as various necessaries of life.

Villa Nova de St. Antonio is agreeably situated, upon an eminence refreshed with fine breezes, upon the St. Francisco, on the opposite side, and two miles below Penedo. It has a good church, a royal professorship of Latin, and in its vicinity quarries of grindstone. In its district, which extends to the sea, cattle are bred and various productions cultivated. Two parishes of Indians are within its precincts, with the title of missions.

Propiha, originally called Urubu de Baixo, created a town in 1800, is twenty-five miles above the preceding, upon the margin of the same river, between two lakes of great disproportion; the smaller, of a circular figure and sixty fathoms in diameter, may hereafter be in the centre of the town, when it has experienced that augmentation of which its advantageous situation renders it so susceptible. It is near a valley opened by the diversifying hand of nature across a plain, appearing more like a human operation, and by which the river at all times extends an arm to the centre of a campinha of more than eight miles in length, and of proportionate width, that becomes a large and handsome lake, abounding with fish during the period of the floods. It has a market every week, where its inhabitants provide themselves with those necessaries which the sterility of its environs denies them. The church, which was formerly a chapel of St. Antonio, besides being the only place of public worship in the town, is very small and poor. The western limits of its district are the same as those that bound the province. The principal revenue of the camara is the product of the public sale of fish, which enter periodically into the temporary lake, the mouth of the valley being barricadoed with mats of cane, to prevent their return to the river with the receding waters.

Within the district of this town is the parish of St. Pedro, situated upon the margin of the St. Francisco, in a flat country, and which becomes an island immediately the river begins to swell. It consists of eighty families, almost generally Indians, for whom it was exclusively founded. The colony is composed of two tribes. The Romaris, who are the remains of the native aborigines, and the Ceococes, from the vicinity of the serra of Pao d’ Assucar, (Sugar Loaf,) fifteen miles distant from the province of Pernambuco. Even at the present day, they are repugnant to the intermarriage of one with the other.[353] The women labour daily in the manufacture of earthenware, which they dry or complete on Saturday evening, with a large fire upon a piece of ground appropriated to the purpose. The husbands hunt, fish, or plant some mandioca, according as their caprice dictates, loitering about the greater part of their time, and consuming in cachassa (spirit) the main portion of the product of the labour of their industrious wives. In the vicinity of this parish were found, a few years ago, bones of a vast size; the species of animal which afforded them are extinct.

Lagarto, situated in a plain seventy miles to the west of the capital, is a middling town, and famous for its quarry of flint stone. It has a church dedicated to Our Lady of Piedade, (Piety.) In its environs are raised cattle, cotton, mandioca, &c.; and in its district is the famous Campo of Creoilo, eight miles in extent, affording pasturage for numerous herds of cattle, and where are many emu-ostriches and seriemas, with other birds.

Thomar, antecedently Geru, well situated in a flat district, and enjoying a salubrious atmosphere, with good water, has a handsome church dedicated to Nossa Senhora do Socorro, which belonged to the Jesuits. It is five miles from the Rio Real; and the inhabitants, principally Indians, cultivate cotton, legumes, and mandioca. They always select a white man and an Indian for judges.

The distinguished and considerable arraial of Laranjeiras, (Orange Groves,) most advantageously situated upon the left bank of the river Cotindiba, and eight miles above its confluence with the Seregipe, is not yet a parish, but in time it most probably will become one of the principal towns of the province. Large sumacas visit it for cargoes of sugar, cotton, hides, and legumes.

In the district of the town of St. Amaro, about eight miles to the north of it, is the arraial of Nossa Senhora of Rozario, which derived its name from a chapel of this name, agreeably situated near the small river Ciriri, traversed by a road conducting to the port of Moruim, and which is one of the most frequented in the country.

Besides the parochials of the towns mentioned, there are only three parishes: Our Lady of Socorro, (Succour,) filial of the capital; Our Lady of Campos do Rio Real, filial of the town of Lagarto; and St. Gonçalo do Pe do Banco.

Upon the coast of this province there are no capes, islands, or ports, excepting those within the rivers, the bars of which are generally more or[354] less dangerous, and afford passage only to sumacas. The men are of all complexions. The Mesticos are the most robust: of this class was Christovam de Mendonca, who, at the end of the year 1806, when he had completed his one hundred and twenty-eighth year, still exercising the business of a potter in the aldeia of Aracaju, near the mouth of the river Cotindiba, gave a relation of the revolt alluded to at the commencement of this chapter, and died two years afterwards.

On the 14th of November, I proceeded on board the brig Columbine, Captain Thomson, lying in the bay of Rio de Janeiro, for the purpose of visiting Pernambuco. A contrary wind prevented our departure for five days. The party on board consisted of Colonel Cotter, his lady and children, Captain Rezende, and Mons. Garay. By way of rendering our detention less tedious, we made two or three excursions to the eastern side of the bay. Our first visit was to the small rocky island with the church of Boa Viagem situated on its summit. We were denied access, from the orders of government, that strangers were not to be admitted up the steep, in consequence of a new fort then erecting upon it. We were therefore excluded from the blessing usually granted at this church to persons upon the point of undertaking a voyage. It was formerly the general custom, and is at present not uncommon, for navigators and others previously to embarking upon the ocean, to present offerings here, receiving in return the prayers of the padre for a good voyage; and hence the place is called Boa Viagem.

The boat proceeded round this island into the bay of Jurufuba, for the purpose of obtaining an additional supply of water. We walked round the back of the hills that edge this bay to the fountain, where the water-casks were filled. Our road led by a delightful pathway embowered by verdant trees intermixed with orange, banana, and other fruits. Here and there a house of good[356] external appearance was seen, and cultivation appeared to be making some progress. We purchased a rich supply of fruits from a widow whose shacara was well stored, and her daughter gratuitously presented us with large bouquets of flowers, whose aromatic scents were gratefully diffused in our cabin for some days. In the common apartment of the widow’s dwelling, secluded in a profusion of trees, was the figure of our Saviour, enclosed in a case with opened doors, illumined by a lighted taper.

Our next excursion was to a small opening between two headlands, not far from the fort of St. Cruz, containing a solitary white cottage, exhibiting much neatness at a distance: we soon, however, discovered that, like most Brazilian residences, its external appearance was not a proof of its internal comfort. There was only one pathway, conducting from this little praya, up a steep rocky mountain, on the summit of which we found a grey-headed old man, seated, with his black boy, and enjoying the varied scenery around. He said, that he frequently came from the city across the bay in a canoe to this retired situation. We descended the opposite side of the mountain, by a narrow and damp avenue, obscured by the meeting of rocks high above our heads, on emerging from which we found our progress stopped by two distinct precipices of granite; it was necessary to cross the first in an oblique direction to arrive at the second, an unlucky slip from which would have precipitated the passenger one hundred feet into the sea. We observed a rope hanging over its side, but could not imagine that it was the only descent into the valley below, until we returned to the old man, who informed us that there was no other way, and sent his boy to show us the mode of descending: with both hands he laid hold of the rope, which was imperfectly secured to a bush, and traversed the first precipice, stepping backwards and allowing the rope gradually to pass through his hands. Arrived at the second precipice, which was to be descended perpendicularly, he took hold firmly of a stronger rope, attached to a hanging tree, growing out of the interstices of the two rocks; he proceeded backwards, moving one foot after the other, horizontally placed against the side of the precipice, till he reached the bottom. Colonel Cotter, Captain Thomson, and myself, took off our shoes and proceeded in the same way, but the Colonel declined accompanying us further than the first precipice, in consequence of a wound received in his hand at the battle of Victoria. The valley we found to be thinly planted with mandioca, which, with a few solitary blacks and some miserable huts, was all that it presented to our observation. We ascended the precipices by placing ourselves in the same posture in which we had descended, [357]and then returned with the rest of the party, who were waiting for us, to the vessel, our surprise being mutually excited at the extraordinary and intricate mode of communication between the two prayinhas. Whilst we lay at anchor, four Russian frigates entered the bay, in very fine order, and took their stations not far from the British ships of war, the Superb and Vengeur, then in the bay. The Russian frigates were proceeding upon a voyage of discovery to the South Seas. On our departure from the bay of Rio de Janeiro we had a favourable breeze, and in five days were in the latitude of Bahia, having run upwards of ten degrees of latitude, and seven of longitude. The wind now became adverse; but in five days afterwards we passed Cabo Calor, Rio Real, and Seregipe d’ el Rey, and on the following day were close in with land, northward of the St. Francisco. The coast was flat and covered with woods, a few huts being all that we could occasionally discover.

The currents we found setting in towards the coast much stronger and to a more considerable degree, than any of the charts extant account for. In the course of the 3d of December we indistinctly perceived some catamarans near the beach, and at dusk discovered Cape St. Augustine, affording us the hope of reaching Pernambuco next morning. At day-break on the 4th, Cape St. Augustine, Pernambuco, and Ollinda, were in view, with the land of the Cape elevated and jutting out into the sea, but presenting nothing remarkable. The coast near Pernambuco is flat, except some elevations in the distant back ground, and Ollinda situated upon an accumulation of rising eminences. On viewing it we could not but acquiesce in the exclamation of the first donatory of this province, “O que linda situacam para fundar huma villa.”[34] The whole country from the sea appeared richly wooded and interspersed with the cocoa-nut tree, and impressed the idea of fertility and cultivation. The jangadas, or catamarans, now passed near us on all sides, with their triangular sails, producing no inconsiderable surprise amongst the whole party. They are constructed of eight, ten, and some of twelve trunks of the buoyant jangada tree, rudely secured together by wooden bolts passing horizontally through the whole, and with cross-bars at the top, attaching the rafts more firmly together. The trunks are not of uniform length, and, being almost hid amongst the waves, would not be discovered at all without the sail and the two men who navigate them. The waves pass through the apertures between each trunk, and the men are constantly[358] standing in water, one of whom steers with a large paddle passed indiscriminately between the ends of two of the rafts. Thus cotton and sugar from the places upon the coast and from the rivers are conveyed to the capital. Voyages of several hundred miles are performed by jangadas. An English gentleman proceeded to sea in one of them from Parahiba to Pernambuco, a small table was attached to the rafts upon which he slept, and although the sea is generally washing over them they are never known to upset. Our voyage had been an extremely pleasant one, and each individual had expressed the highest gratification not only at the mutual good humour that had prevailed, but the very great attention of the captain. The party frequently met on shore afterwards, and I received many civilities from Colonel Cotter and his lady during my stay at Pernambuco. The Colonel, before my departure, was appointed to the command of the militia regiments formed by the population of the town. We will defer speaking of the city of Pernambuco, or Recife, till we have concluded the description of the province.

This province was presented as a captaincy, with less extent of territory than it now contains, to Duarthe Coelho Pereyra, in reward for having repulsed the French from the river St. Cruz, re-establishing the factory which had been destroyed by them, and rendering other important services to the Portuguese government. The letter of donation was granted to him in 1534; and in the following year he set sail from Portugal, accompanied by his wife and some other families, who joined him for the purpose of colonization.[35]

The small village of Hyguarassu, which had its origin about four years before, was for some time the place of his residence, till Ollinda was begun, which he made his capital soon after its foundation. He was engaged in continued wars with the Cahetes, who were the former inhabitants of the country. He died in the year 1554, leaving his wife, D. Brittes d’Albuquerque, in trust of the government of the captaincy till the arrival of his hereditary son Duarthe Coelho d’Albuquerque, who was pursuing his studies in Portugal, and which he left in 1560 by orders of Queen Catharine, to protect the colony from the danger with which it was threatened by the revolt of some tribes of Indians whom his father had reduced to obedience.

The new donatory took with him his brother Jorge d’Albuquerque Coelho, and was accompanied by many friends and hired attendants to his new settlement, and had the promise of others to follow him for the purpose of augmenting the colony. He subjugated the whole nation of the Cahetes and divided them into hordes; and after a residence of many years returned to Europe, in order to accompany D. Sebastiano in his voyage to Africa, leaving his brother administrator of the captaincy, which progressively improved under his management.

In failure of male issue he was succeeded by his brother Jorge d’Albuquerque Coelho, father of Duarthe d’Albuquerque Coelho, who in the second year after the Dutch had possession of the captaincy arrived there with the Count Banholo, where he remained till the end of 1638, when he returned to Portugal. During his residence he kept a diary of the first eight years of the war.[36]

Duarthe d’Albuquerque Coelho had an only daughter, married to the Count de Vimiozi D. Miguel de Portugal, but neither he nor his heirs received any revenue from the captaincy, the dominion of which was disputed; for King John IV. who had expended large sums in its restoration, finding that the donatory had not forces sufficient to prevent the invasion of the enemy, should they make a second attempt, annexed the captaincy to the crown in the first year of its restoration. This the donatory opposed, and his heirs sustained an obstinate suit at law for many years, obtaining various sentences in their favour, which were always abrogated, till finally they desisted from the contest, surrendering whatever right they had to the province; and, in 1717, by the intervention and consent of John V. a convention was made between the Count de Vimiozi D. Francisco de Portugal and the attorney-general, in which it was agreed that the Count should receive in exchange for the captaincy the marquisate of Vallenca for himself and his son, the countship to pass to his son and grandson, and eighty thousand crusades, to be paid from the revenues of the province in ten years at equal payments.

The new colonists, who were sent to it immediately after the restoration of the province, gave it a rapid improvement. The Indians living towards the interior,[360] the principal of whom were Tupinambas, and divided into numerous tribes, were by degrees surrendering the country and allying themselves to the conquerors, or retiring to the western districts. The latter were reduced about the years 1802 and 1803.

These Indians were divided into four nations, who have always exhibited the most irreconcileable hatred to each other, and to this day preserve their ancient animosity undiminished. They were distinguished by the appellations of Pipipan, Choco, Uman, and Vouvé. The language of each differed in idiom, but the general resemblance between them sufficiently demonstrated that they sprung from the same origin. They occupied a wild and uncultivated tract of country, of thirty square leagues, between the rivers Moxoto and Pajehu, near to the serra of Ararippa, a country sterile and deficient in water. All are wandering tribes, ignorant of any kind of agriculture, and support themselves on wild fruits, honey, and game; a hog, a deer, or a bird are all dressed with the hair, feathers, and intestines. The arms of the men are a bow and arrow, and they go perfectly naked. The women cover themselves with a small and elastic net, or with a deep fringe of thick thread much twisted, and made with considerable ingenuity. They inter their dead in a bent posture, having no instruments to make a grave sufficiently large to admit of the body lying at full length. They always bury under the most shady tree, preferring the ambuzo, if it be found near the spot. Of all savage nations they are perhaps the most remarkable for conjugal fidelity; polygamy and adultery are unknown among them, and the latter crime they abominate in their conquerors.

All these savages received baptism; and, after being formed into villages and rendered rather more civilized, they began to cultivate the most necessary provisions of life, as mandioca, Indian corn, gourds, and vegetables. But, notwithstanding their apparent improvement, they still retained their wild and savage propensities for hunting and general depredation: early accustomed to live on plunder, they conceived they had a natural right to the property of each other, and they frequently drove off and appropriated the sheep and oxen of the neighbouring farmers. Independently of these savage propensities to a wild and predatory life, their religious instructors gave them a very good character for innocence of general manners, in which they were said to resemble the primitive Christians.

They suppose, from the above circumstances, that the present race of these Indians are descendants of some who, after having settled in the villages and become Christians, had again returned to their native wilds; and,[361] from a rooted propensity, which no art could remove, preferred the savage to the civilized state. Indeed, the opinion is supported by a fact, already alleged in this work, as well as by recent occurrences, in which individuals who have been civilized, on entering their native wilds, have again adopted their former rude habits.

This province of Pernambuco, which had formerly the title of countship, is bounded on the north by the provinces of Parahiba, Siara, and Piauhy; on the south by the river St. Francisco, which separates it from Seregipe and Bahia, and by the Carinhenha, which divides it from Minas Geraes; on the west by the province of Goyaz; and on the east by the ocean, with seventy leagues of coast from the river St. Francisco to the river Goyanna.

The river Pajehu, which rises in the serra of the Cayriris, and empties itself into the St. Francisco thirty leagues above the fall of Paulo Affonso, divides it into two parts—eastern and western; the latter forming an ouvidoria, which comprehends a great portion of the eastern, the sea-coast of which is divided into three comarcas, Northern or Olinda, Central or Recife, Southern or the Alagoas, whose common limits are in the vicinity of Rio Una, which enters the sea forty miles south of Cape St. Augustine.

This province lies between 7° and 15° south latitude, having a warm climate and pure air. The lands upon the whole extent of the sea-coast are low, with considerable portions of fruitful soil, and although it has many rivers, which are perennial and abundant, yet the inhabitants in many parts suffer from want of water. In the interior of the province the face of the country is very unequal, being in some places mountainous, and very deficient in water, and that which is met with, besides being extremely scarce, is never pure, being of the colour of milk, and drawn from wells where all kinds of animals go to drink, or else from pits dug in the sand. From the town of Penedo to the bar of Rio Grande, which travellers by the windings of the river compute at five hundred miles, there does not run towards the river St. Francisco a single stream in the dry season.

Mountains.—The serra of Borborema, which is the most majestic in the Brazil, has its commencement near the sea, in the province of Rio Grande, and, after having traversed that of Parahiba from north-east to south-west, turns to the west, separating the western part of Pernambuco from the preceding, and from Siara for a considerable space. It then inclines to the north, dividing the last from the province of Piauhy, varying frequently in altitude and name to its termination, where it is denominated Hibiapaba, in view of the coast between the rivers Camucim and Paranahiba. In some parts it is rocky, in others bare[362] and barren, but the principal part is covered with beautiful woods, nourished by strong and fertile soils. In some places it has two or three leagues of luxuriant herbage on its summit.

The mountain Araripe, which is a portion of it, commands a view of the river St. Francisco, at a distance of more than thirty leagues. In this mountain the rivers Jaguariba and Piranhas have their origin, and run to the north. It also gives birth to the rivers Parahiba and Capibaribe, which flow eastward, and likewise to the Moxoto and the Pajehu, which direct their course to the south.

About seven leagues distant from the fall of Paulo Affonso, in the parish of Tarcaratu, is the mountain of Agua-Branca, with its numerous branches, in great part covered with wild and luxuriant woods. Here is a chapel of Our Lady of Conceiçao, and many families of different shades of complexion, equally if not more barbarous than the ancient possessors of the country.

In the vicinity of the river Pajehu, about fifteen leagues from that which absorbs it, is the serra Negra, which is about a league long, and proportionably wide, and covered with thick woods, that are often violently agitated by strong winds. Near it is the site of Jacare, where the Choco Indians lived for some time; but since they have been subjugated, like their neighbours, there is little mention made of them.

At a short distance from the source of the river Una, is the serra Garanhuns. It is covered with woods, where they are introducing plantations of cotton, Indian corn, mandioca, vegetables, and fruits. From this mountain descend many clear streams of water, which vanish on entering the sandy plains that encompass it below. Among other useful plants may be remarked the terminalia, or styrax of Linnæus, which produces the gum-resinous drug called benzoin.

The serra of Russas, two leagues long, and of small width, is situated about sixteen leagues distant from the Recife, in the road which leads towards the certam of the river St. Francisco.

The serra Sellada is four leagues to the south-west of Cape St. Augustine, and little more than two from the sea; and, although of trifling height, is the best land-mark for sailors in these latitudes.

Four leagues to the north-west of Caninde, an insignificant and ill-situated village, on the left bank of the St. Francisco, is the serra of Olho d’Agua, with a circuit of two leagues, and of considerable height. From its summit is discovered a vast chain of inferior mountains on all sides, and at a distance of[363] about six leagues to the west-north-west is seen a column of vapour rising from the cataract of Paulo Affonso, similar to the smoke of a conflagration. Formerly this mountain abounded with numerous tigers, in consequence of the multitude of caverns within the jetting rocks and frowning crags that compose it. Even at present they are the retreats of a formidable species of bat, which proves very destructive to cattle.

The serra of Priaca is about eight leagues to the north-west of the town of Penedo. That of Pao d’Assucar is within sight of the former, and near the river St. Francisco. On the southern skirts of the serra of Pao d’Assucar there is a lake, where bones of an enormous size have been found; and on its northern side there is a most terrific cavern.

The serra of Poco, situated fifteen leagues distant from the last, towards the interior of the province, is covered with woods where trees of the finest timber are produced, some of whose trunks exude precious resins, and oily or balsamic liquors, while the hollow trunks of others serve for the hives of various kinds of bees.

Comenaty is one of the largest mountains in the interior. It abounds with extensive woods in many parts, where the Indians and other inhabitants of the parish of Aguas Bellas have introduced large plantations of cotton and mandioca.

The serra of Barriga is about four leagues distant from the town of Anadia, and twenty from the sea, and is subject to frequent thunderstorms. The occasional and loud noises from its cavities terrify the people of the circumjacent country, and indicate that it has minerals. On its extreme skirts was the fatal band of Africans, called the Quilombo dos Palmares, commenced by three hundred and forty negroes of Guinea, on the occasion of the Dutch disembarking at Pernambuco. They were joined by many others from the neighbouring provinces, and founded the above village, which took the name of Palmares from the number of palm trees which the negroes had planted around it. The village, which was more than a league in extent, was encompassed by a square, consisting of two orders or rows of enclosures of palisadoes, formed of large high trunks of the strongest and most durable wood the country afforded. At equal distances were three strong doors, each having its platform above, and defended by two hundred men in times of assault; the whole flanked by various bulwarks of the same fabric as the walls. Its population amounted to twenty thousand, one-half of whom were capable of taking up arms. They had established an elective and monarchical form of government. The chief[364] was entitled Zumbe, and had his palace more distinguished than the houses of his vassals, which were erected according to the African mode. The most valorous and wise were always selected for this important office. Besides the superior, they had subordinate officers for the administration of justice, which was punctually executed against adulterers, homicides, and thieves.

The slaves who voluntarily came and associated with them had their liberty immediately granted, but those taken by force remained captives. The first incurred the penalty of death if they fled and were taken, a punishment which deserters from the latter class did not experience. Independently of a slight covering the whole were in a state of nudity, except the superiors, who wore such clothes for dresses as the neighbouring people of Quilombo sold to them, together with arms and ammunition, in exchange for provisions. Those only who had been baptized assumed the name of Christians.

Within the square was a vast basin or tank of soft water, well stored with fish, and a high rock, which served them for a watch-tower, from whence they could discover the country all round to a great extent, and could observe the approach of the enemy. The suburbs were covered with plantations of necessary provisions, to protect which there were various hamlets, called mocambos, governed by veteran soldiers.

It is extraordinary that this colony gave much anxiety to the crown, existed for the space of sixty years, and cost much labour to an army of eight thousand men for many months to accomplish its extinction in 1697.

Mineralogy.—Gold, amianthus, stone for water-filters, limestone and grindstone, terra de cores, a sort of plaster for figures, also two or three species of rude marble, and potters’ earth.

Zoology.—All the domestic animals of Spain are bred here. Goats and sheep are less profitable than in the country in which they are natives. The woods abound with all the species of wild animals described in the preceding provinces, excepting the wild dog, in place of which there is the ferret. The hedge-hog has here the name of quandu. The guariba, a species of monkey generally of a red colour, from the river St. Francisco towards the south, is black in this province, and its skin on this account is more esteemed. The tatubola, or armadillo, and the land-tortoise are numerous, as well as the moco, in rocks and stony grounds. Rabbits are very rare. In the open country are the emu-ostrich and the seriema. In the lakes are the colhereira, jaburu, goose, grey and white heron, wild duck, soco, macarico, water hen. In the woods and plains are the jacu, mutun, zabele, enapupe, racuan, arara, parrot, the uru[365] which is a species of small partridge, going always in bands and upon the ground. The bird here called rouxinol, or the nightingale, is very different in its song and plumage from that of Europe. The araponga pours its simple and tender song from the summit of the highest trees. The white-winged dove always avoids strange birds, like other species of its kind. Various sorts of kites and hawks make war upon the other birds. The jacurutu, which is of a large size, has two great horns of feathers, and kills the largest snakes with caution and much dexterity in order to avoid being stung by them. In almost all the rivers there are otters, and no lake is without the alligator.

Phytology.—The cedar, bow-wood, vinhatica, of various colours, the yellow and dark are the most esteemed; the conduru, which is red; barabu, male and female, more or less of a violet or purple colour; pau santo, waved with violet; sucupira and brahuna, both of a blackish colour. The sapucaya affords good masts of a small size, and its towy rind is used by the caulkers. The red camacary, pau d’alho, maçaranduba, angico, coraçao de negro, the pith or heart of which is black and hard: there are many others of fine timber for building. The Brazil wood comes thirty leagues from the interior of the country; here is also the cassia, the carahiba, whose flower is yellow and rather large, constituting delicious food for the deer. This animal, generally feeding beneath the tree upon them, thus becomes an easy prey to the hunter. Amongst the fruit trees and shrubs of the woods are the ambuzo, the cajue, the araçaza, the jabuticaba, the mandupussa, the fruit of which is yellow and grows also round the trunk, like the preceding; the muricy; the cambuhy is a large tree and its fruit about the size of a sour cherry, either red or purple; the piky affords a fruit, from the stone of which is extracted a kind of hard tallow that is used for making imitation candles; the issicariba, which produces gum-mastick, ipecacuanha, and some species of inferior quina, or Jesuit’s bark, to which they give this name; the real one is to be found in the serra Cayriris. The maçanzeira is common in some districts of this province, where it has the improper name of murta.

The comarca of the Alagoas produces great abundance of the best timber in the province; there the canoes are made in which the St. Francisco is navigated. Cocoa-nut tree groves abound in the vicinity of the sea. The mamona is carefully cultivated in some districts, and its oil affords an article of exportation. The opuncia, or palmatoria, is here very common; and the cochineal insect might be cultivated with advantage.

The cotton tree and sugar cane are the principal branches of agriculture, and[366] their productions are the most lucrative. The desire every where of the gain which these two articles afford, unwisely prevents the cultivation of provisions of the first necessity in sufficient quantity for the subsistence of the population. The flour of mandioca is generally scarce and dear, arising in part from the lands in the vicinity of the sea (which alone are fertile) having been given in such liberal portions; so that at the present day they are under the dominion of so few persons that it is calculated that for every two hundred families there are only eight or ten proprietors, or senhores d’engenho, and who generally permit their tenants only to plant the cane. The jangada, a peculiar tree, and one of the most useful in the province, has a trunk commonly straight and scarcely ever attaining a thickness that a man cannot encompass with his arms: it is extremely porous and light. The trunks attached, as already described, constitute the only small craft of the country; fishermen proceed with them to sea out of sight of land, and travellers transport themselves, with their moveables, from one port to another. It is necessary to drag them on the beach at the end of each voyage to dry, in order that the wood may not decay so quickly. The trees which produce the oil of cupahyba are met with in all the woods; also those which produce the gum-copal, the drug benzoin, and the sweet gum storax. The latter is here called the balsam tree; and the honey which the bees make from the sweets of its flower has the smell of cinnamon. Amongst other exotic trees which have been naturalized the precious sandal tree, it is affirmed, would prosper here almost as well as in the island of Timor, and would save to the state many arrobas of gold annually expended in bringing it from India.

The people of the certam catch large quantities of turtle and ring doves with the manicoba-brava, an infusion of which is put into vessels half buried in the sand, in those places where some little water remains after the streams are dried up, and to which those birds are attracted for the purpose of drinking. On taking the infusion, if they do not immediately vomit, they cannot again take wing, but quickly begin to tremble, and expire in a few moments.

Rivers.—The most considerable are in the western part of the province; but we shall defer speaking of them till we come to finish the description of the river St. Francisco, into which they discharge themselves.

The principal ones in the eastern part of the province are the Capibaribe, the Ipojuca, the Una, the Tracunhaen, or Goyanna, and the Serenhen.

The Capibaribe, or river of the Capibaras,[37] has its origin in the district of[367] Cayriris Velhos, about fifty leagues distant from the sea. Its source is brackish; the channel very stony, with many falls, and navigable only for about eight miles. It is discharged by two mouths, one within the Recife, and the other near four miles to the south, at the arraial of Affogados, where there is a wooden bridge two hundred and sixty paces in length. Topacora and Goyta are its principal confluents, both of which join it by the right bank, with an interval of four or five miles. The latter runs from a lake, denominated Lagoa Grande.

The Ipojuca rises in the Cayriris Velhos, near the Capibaribe, and runs through countries appropriated to the culture of cotton and sugar, which productions have been extremely advantageous to the agriculturist. It disembogues between Cape St. Augustine and the island of St. Aleixo, forming a port for the small vessels by which it is frequented.

The Serenhen, which is considerable and advantageous to the cultivator, empties itself almost in front of the isle of St. Aleixo. One of its largest confluents is the Ceribo, which meets it on the left bank, not far from the sea.

The Una comes from the district of Garanhuns, with a course of nearly forty leagues, and in the vicinity of the ocean receives on the right the Jacuipe, which is inferior, and runs into the sea through large woods. Both serve for the conveyance of timber, that is laden in the port at its mouth, which is about seven leagues to the south-west of the island of St. Aleixo.

The Goyanna, which is handsome and considerable, runs into the sea nine miles to the north of Itamaraca, between the point of Pedras and the Cocoa-Tree Point. It takes this name at the confluence of the Tracunhaen, which has a considerable course, with the Capibari-mirim, much inferior, about three leagues from the sea, to which place smacks and small craft ascend. The water of the first is only good at the source.

The other rivers upon the coast are the Cururippe, which discharges itself twenty-eight miles north-east of the St. Francisco; the St. Miguel, twenty-five miles further; the Alagoas, so called from being the mouth of two large lakes; the St. Antonio Mirim; the St. Antonio Grande; the Cammaragibe; the Manguape; the Rio Grande; the Formozo; the Maracahippe, which runs into the sea between the Serenhen and the Ipojuca; the Jaboatao, which receives near the coast the Parapamba by the right bank, their common mouth being designated Barra da Jangada, and is two leagues to the north of Cape St. Augustine; the Iguarassu, which discharges itself with considerable width five or six leagues north of Olinda, and is formed by several small rivers, that unite[368] about seven miles from the ocean. All these rivers admit of the entrance of boats and small vessels. The Moxoto, after a considerable course, empties itself eight miles above the fall of Paulo Alfonso. It is only a current during the rainy season. The delicate mandin fish, which proceed up whilst it is full, as soon as the river ceases to run, and the water begins to grow warm in the wells, pines away, and soon dies. The Pajehu is only a current whilst the thunder showers prevail.

Promontories.—Cape St. Augustine, the only one upon the coast, is the most famous in the new world, and the most eastern land of South America, in the latitude 8° 20’. Here is a religious hospicio of slippered Carmelites, dedicated to Our Lady of Nazareth, which many captains formerly honoured with a salute on passing. It has two forts, each of which defends a small port, where vessels of an inferior class can come to anchor.

Islands.—Itamaraca, for a considerable time called Cosmos, is three leagues long from north to south, and one in the widest part; it is mountainous and inhabited. Its principal place is the parish of Our Lady of Conceiçao, situated on the southern side, about half a league above the mouth of the Iguarassu. This was formerly a town, the prerogative of which was transferred to Goyanna, whose senate goes annually to assist at the festival of its patroness. The mangoes and grapes of this island are highly praised. There are also several very fine salt-pits. The channel which separates it from the continent is narrow and deep. At the northern entrance, called Catuama, there is commodious anchorage for ships in front of the mouth of the river Massaranduba.

The island of St. Aleixo, which is about four miles in circuit, with portions of ground appropriated to the production of various necessaries of life, is five leagues to the south-west of Cape St. Augustine, and a mile distant from the continent.

Ports.—No province has so great a number of ports, though the generality of them are only capable of receiving smacks and small craft. The principal ones are the before-mentioned Catuama; the Recife, which will be described jointly with the town of that name; the Tamandare, which is the best of the whole, in the form of a bay within the river so called. It is securely defended by a large fort, and capable of receiving a fleet, being four and five fathoms deep at the entrance, and six within. It lies ten leagues south-west of Cape St. Augustine.

Jaragua and Pajussara are separated by a point which gives name to the first, where vessels anchor in the summer. The latter one can only be used in[369] winter. They are two leagues north-east of the river Alagoas, and in them people disembark to go to the town of this name, because the river, which formerly afforded passage for smacks, at present will not admit of canoes. It is therefore necessary to go a league by land, and re-embark on the lake.

Cururippe is a beautiful bay, capable of receiving large ships. It is sheltered by a reef, which breaks the fury of the sea. It has two entrances, one to the south and the other to the north; but the anchorage is not generally good. The bay receives the river from which it derives the name. It is a deep and quiet stream of black water, and navigable for canoes some leagues; the least depth is at the mouth. Its banks are covered with mangroves, reeds, and divers trees.

Lakes.—The considerable lakes are the Jiquiba, five leagues long and one wide, brackish, containing fish, and is discharged twelve miles to the north-east of Cururippe; and the Manguaba, ten leagues long and one at the greatest width, is salt, and abounds with fish. It is divided by a straight into two portions, one called Lagoa do Norte, the other Lagoa do Sul, which is the largest. Its channel of discharge is the before-mentioned river of the Alagoas, about a cannon-shot across. Various small rivers here empty themselves. Its banks are cultivated in parts; in others covered with mangoes. In its neighbourhood are various sugar works, the produce of which is transported, with cotton and other articles, in large canoes, to a northern part of the lake, from whence they are carried in carts for the space of three miles to the ports of Jaragua and Pajussara, where the smacks are laden with them for the Recife, or Bahia.

The following are the towns in the three comarcas into which this province is divided.

Goyanna, situated in low ground between the rivers Capibari-mirim, which washes it on the north, and Tracunhaen on the south, a little more than a league above their confluence, is a large, populous, and flourishing town, well supplied with meat, fish, and fruits. It has a church of Our Lady of Rozario, a hermitage of the same name, others of Amparo, Conceiçao, and the Senhor dos Martyrios, a house of misericordia, a convent of slippered Carmelites, a Magdalen, two bridges, and a Juiz de Fora; there is a royal professor of Latin. It has a fair for cattle on Thursdays. A large quantity of cotton is exported; the principal productions of the farmers of its extensive district, where there are above twenty hermitages almost all with chapels. It is sixty miles north-west of Ollinda, and fifteen from the sea. In 1810 it had four thousand four hundred inhabitants, including its district; but the town itself now contains near five thousand.

Seven miles south of the mouth of the river Goyanna, and near the beach, is the parish of St. Lourenço de Tijucopabo, which is augmenting. Thirty-five miles west of Goyanna is the parish of St. Antonio de Tracunhaen, near to this river: its inhabitants cultivate cotton.

Iguarassu is considerable, and the most ancient town of the province. It is honoured with the title of loyal, and has a church dedicated to the companion Saints of Cosme and Damiao, a house of misericordia, a convent of Franciscans, a Magdalen, four hermitages, and is well supplied with fish, meat, and fruits. It is five or six leagues north of Ollinda, and two from the sea, upon the right bank of the river that gives it the name, and which is formed by the small rivers Ottinga, Pittanga, and Taype, that unite themselves above. There is a bridge over it, and canoes arrive here with the tide, but smacks remain two miles lower down. Sugar and cotton are the articles of exportation.

Two leagues north of Iguarassu, on the Goyanna road, is the considerable village of Pasmado, inhabited by whites, in great part locksmiths.

Pau d’Alho, situated upon the right bank of the Capibaribe, and thirty-five miles from the capital, was created a town in 1812, has a church dedicated to the Holy Spirit, a hermitage of Our Lady of Rozario, and a market every eight days.

Limoeiro, also created a town in 1812, is upon the margin of the Capibaribe, about thirty miles above Pau d’Alho, and has a church, dedicated to Our Lady of Expectaçao, and a market every week. Cotton constitutes the wealth of its inhabitants. Whilst I remained at Pernambuco, an English gentleman proceeded to this town for the purpose of establishing a machine for dressing cotton, in which, I understand, he has been very successful.

Serenhen, founded in 1627 with the name of Villa Formoza, situated on an eminence upon the margin and seven miles above the mouth of the river from which it borrows the name, is small, and has a church, dedicated to Our Lady of Conceiçao, two hermitages, and a convent of Franciscans. Its environs are remarkable for fertility, abounding with water and rich plantations of cane.

St. Antonio, so called after the patron of its church, is nine miles north-west of Cape St. Augustin, near the margin of the Parapamba, and has two hermitages, one of St. Braz, the other of Our Lady of Rozario. It was erected into a town in 1812.

St. Antao, situated near the small river Tapacora, and created a town in 1812, has a church dedicated to the same saint, and two chapels of Rozario and Livramento, and a market every week. It produces much cotton.

Amongst other places and considerable parishes in this comarca, is to be remarked the Ipojuca, upon the margin of the river from which it derives its name, two leagues distant from the sea, with a church of St. Miguel, and a convent of Franciscans.

Muribeca, with a church of Nossa Senhora of Rozario, a hermitage of the same name, and another of Livramento, is situated between the Recife and Cape St. Augustin, about three miles from the sea. Sugar is the produce of both these places.

Porto Calvo, a middling town with some commerce, and a church of Our Lady of Aprezentaçao, is situated upon the margin of the river, from which it takes the name, and twenty miles from the sea. Bom Successo was its first name; to its haven formerly smacks arrived with the tide. It is the native place of the mulatto Calabar, who, passing over to the Dutch in 1632, was to them a great acquisition, and to the Pernambucans a great injury; until he was[372] delivered to the latter, as a reward for their services, in order that he might receive the chastisement due to his perfidy. At the taking of this town, a nephew of the Dutch general, Count Nassau lost his life, and the celebrated Preto Henrique Dias part of an arm. The latter afterwards distinguished himself in the battle of the mountains of Gararappes.

Alagoas, so called from having its site upon a southern portion of the lake Manguaba, created with the name of Magdalen, is considerable, head of the comarca of its name, and the ordinary residence of the ouvidor, who is also inspector of the woods of the royal marine. It has a church of Nossa Senhora of Conceiçao, a convent of Franciscans, another of slippered Carmelites, two orders of devout women, three chapels, with the titles of Amparo, Rozario, and Bom Fim, and a royal professorship of Latin. At all times it is well supplied with fish; and abounds in the jaca and orange tree. In the beginning of last century was exported from the district of this town, two thousand five hundred rolls of tobacco, of eight arrobas each, and of such good quality, that it was bought at fifty per cent. dearer than the same article from Bahia. Sugar is at the present day the riches of its inhabitants. A custom-house has been recently established within its jurisdiction, in consequence of the considerable increase in the commerce of this comarca.

Atalaya, six leagues distant from the preceding place, three by water, and the rest by land, is in a fertile and wholesome country, possessing excellent water, and having a church of Nossa Senhora das Brotas. Its neighbourhood abounds with ipecacuanha, and cotton is cultivated with the common provisions of the country. The number of its inhabitants, including those of its district, amount to nearly two thousand; part of them are Caboclos,[39] white, and with more regular features than any other known tribe of Indians.

Anadia, a middling sized town, with a church of the Lady of Piety, is fourteen leagues from Alagoas. Its inhabitants are Indians, Europeans, whites of the country, and Mestiços, in number about ten thousand, including those of the district; almost all are cultivators or purchasers of cotton, its principal produce. By the same law, of 15th December, 1815, which gave to the town of Penedo a Juiz de Fora, were created the towns of Maceyo and Porto de Pedras.

Maceyo is a dismemberment of the Alagoas, having a district of more than seven leagues of coast, computing from the river Alagoas to the St. Antonio[373] Grande. In this interval the following rivers run into the sea:—The Doce, which is short, and comes from a small lake; the Paratiji, the St. Antonio Mirim, and the Paripueira, which receives the Cabuçu on the right, near its mouth. Maceyo is becoming a place of some commerce, and will be the emporium of the trade of the comarca of Alagoas. One English establishment already exists here, and shipments are made direct from hence to Great Britain. An European first settling in any of the towns of Brazil, and particularly in places of this class, makes a sacrifice of all the comforts common to well regulated society.

Porto de Pedras is a dismemberment of Porto Calvo; its district embraces nearly nine leagues of coast, occupying the interval from the aforesaid river St. Antonio Grande to the Manguape. The Cumuriji and the Tatuamuhy are the principal rivers that empty themselves upon its shores. The two last towns have each two ordinary judges, and one of orphans; three veradores, or species of aldermen, a procurador of the council, a treasurer, two clerks of the market, an alcaide, with a scrivener of his office, two public scriveners, judicial and notarial, the first of which holds that office in the council, also in the customs, and is market clerk; the second also belongs to the office of scrivener of the orphans.

Poxim, a small town upon the margin of the river of the same name, which enters the sea three leagues to the north-east of Cururippe, has a large bridge, and a church dedicated to Our Lady of Madre de Deos. It is two miles from the ocean, is well supplied with fish, and has in its district the new and yet small aldeia of Our Lady of Conceiçao, so called after the patroness of the chapel which ornaments it; and where upon festival days are assembled six hundred families, dispersed around its neighbourhood. It is situated near the river Cururippe, four miles from the sea; and its good port, where at present is only laden some timber and oil of the mamona, with the fertility of the interior territory, will contribute to render this a considerable place at some future day. The land in the proximity of the shore is sandy, and well adapted to the cajue-nut tree, which, in a short time grows to a large size, and its fruit would furnish a branch of commerce.

Penedo, a considerable, populous, and commercial town, is situated partly in a plain along the bank of the river St. Francisco, and occasionally suffering by its inundations, and partly upon a height at the extremity of a range, which is the first elevated land met with on the northern margin, on ascending this river. Besides the church dedicated to Nossa Senhora of Rozario, there is a[374] hermitage with the same title; another of the Lady of Corrente; others of St. Gonçalo d’Amarante, St. Gonçalo Garcia, and a convent of Franciscans, whose ill appropriated grounds occupy a situation the best suited for the improvement of the povoaçao. It has a royal Latin master, and a good house for the ouvidor. The houses were, till lately, miserable buildings of wood; there are now many of stone, with two or three stories, having portals of a species of grindstone. The river is here near a mile in width, and the highest tide is three feet. The greatest height of the river, that can be remembered, reached twenty feet. It is about twenty-five miles from hence to the mouth of the river. The confessional roll, which is a tolerably correct one, estimates the population at eleven thousand five hundred and four, including that of the district. By a law of the 15th of December, 1805, a Juiz de Fora was granted to this town.

About twenty-five miles higher up, on the margin of the St. Francisco, in a delightful situation, is the parish of Collegio, whose dwellers only amount to ninety families, and are mostly Indians, of three different nations. The Acconans who lived in the district of Logoa Comprida, a few miles higher up the river: the Carapotos, who inhabited the serra of Cuminaty: and the Cayriris, who dwelt in the vicinity of the serra which takes from them its name. The main part of this colony wander about when not occupied in fishing, according to the custom of their ancestors, through a country six miles along the river, and three broad, which was given to them for the purposes of agriculture. The wives of these lazy poltroons work daily in making earthenware, seated on the ground. They begin to make an earthen vessel by working the clay on a banana leaf, placed upon their knees; afterwards it is put upon a large dish, with pulverized ashes, when it receives the form and last finish. Without any assistance from the men, they procure and work up the clay, proceed to fetch the wood in order to set up large fires every Saturday night for hardening the vessels made during the week. The church was a Jesuitical chapel, which the district already possessed.

In this comarca is the considerable arraial of St. Miguel, upon the margin and seven leagues above the mouth of the river of the same name. It has a church of Nossa Senhora of O, whose parishioners amount to fifteen hundred, the main part dispersed.

The western portion of the province is much more extensive than the preceding, but is very thinly inhabited, being a sterile and parched up country, without other rains than those afforded by thunder showers. In all parts,[375] however, are met with portions of ground more or less fertile, which would produce mandioca, Indian corn, feijao, hortulans, cottons, fruits, and the sugar cane. Cattle are generally bred in this vast district, and game abounds in great variety. It was included in the jurisdiction of the ouvidor of Jacobina until 1810, when it became a comarca, receiving the interior portion of that of Recife. It is at present called the ouvidorship of the certam of Pernambuco, the magistrate not having chosen the town for its head, by which it ought to be designated. Cattle, hides, cotton, salt, and gold, are the articles of its exportation.

The river St. Francisco, whose description we left off at the confluence of the Carinhenha, only receives from thence to its entrance into the ocean, five streams of any importance, namely, the Rans, the Parimirim, the Verde, on the right, the Correntes, one hundred miles below the first, and the Rio Grande, one hundred and forty lower on the left, continuing from thence northward, with many small windings, being of considerable width, and having many islands and some currents which do not impede navigation. Its margins are flat, and in some parts so low, that at the inundations, they are submerged for more than seven miles. Below the confluence of Rio Grande, its course bends towards the east, and then to the east-south-east, preserving the same width for a long way, to the aldeia of Vargem Redonda, where the navigation terminates from above, and the lateral lands begin to rise. Its channel gradually becomes narrower, and the current is rapidly impelled between blue and black rocks, to the small aldeia of Caninde, (the boundary of the navigation from the ocean,) which is seventy miles below the other. In this interval there are various large falls, of which the most interesting and famous is that of Paulo Affonso. Between these falls canoes navigate during the summer season. Through Caninde it continues to run between stony banks, thinly covered with soil and an impoverished vegetation, being one hundred fathoms in height, the width of the river not exceeding a sling’s throw for the distance of ten miles, to the mouth of the Jacare, where its elevated and rugged banks terminate. Its bed in this part is overspread with cleft reefs, appearing like the relics of a majestic sluice or dock.

Three leagues below is the small island of Ferro, where the margins begin to diminish in elevation, and the river to augment in width, exhibiting crowns of white sand, the resort of the ash-coloured and white heron, and where myriads of black diving birds assemble; forming themselves like a net, they encircle the fish in shoal places, not infested by the dreaded piranha fish. Here the[376] sea-mew, and other aquatic birds, make their nests in small holes, their young being hatched by the heat of the sun.

Six leagues below the island of Ferro, is that of Oiro, also small, high, and rocky, crowned with a hermitage of Nossa Senhora of Prazeres. These are the only islands met with in the space of one hundred miles from Caninde to the town of Penedo, where the small range of hills that borders the left bank of the river terminates. Two miles below Villa Nova, the elevation of the right margin also has its bounds, and the river begins to divide its course, forming a great number of islands, generally low, and abounding with woods, giving them an agreeable aspect. They possess portions of fertile soil, where some rice, maize, mandioca, sugar, and hortulans, are cultivated. Some are sandy, others are composed of grey clay, with a bed of black above, about a foot in depth and above this another, of yellow earth, from three to four spans in thickness. The whole are submerged at the period of the overflowings of this great river. The cassia tree is here numerous, and extremely beautiful while blooming with its rosy flowers. It affords a sort of husky fruit, two spans in length, and of proportionable thickness, and abounds on both margins of the river for about thirty-five miles above the town of Penedo. This river, so deep in the interior of the continent, disembogues by two mouths of very unequal size; the principal one is on the north, being near two miles wide, with so little depth that the smacks can enter it only at high water, and there wait for the full tides to get out. The navigation from the falls, upwards, is performed in barks and ajojos, which are two or more canoes moored together with cross pieces of timber above. All produce descending the river below the falls is disembarked at Vargem Redonda, a district of the parish and julgado of Tacaratu, and transmitted on oxen to the port of Caninde, or Piranhas, which is two miles lower down. The navigation from hence to Penedo, is solely by the ajojos, and upwards always with a sail. The wind is favourable from eight o’clock of the day to the following morning’s dawn, but not without variation according to the age of the moon and the state of the weather; always increasing at evening, and frequently becoming quite calm before midnight. These craft descend always with a strong current, whilst there is no wind to produce an agitation of the water. When the breeze is high the current diminishes, and the river rises above a span. Fish is more abundant above the falls, which difference, the oldest men say originated in the extirpating system of fishing with what are called tapagens, a mode of enclosing them, and which was unjustly countenanced by the chief magistrates, who drew from this abuse considerable[377] revenues, which disappeared without leaving to the public one signal of its expenditure. The most valuable fish of this river are the sorubin, which grows to the size of a man; the mandin, four feet in length, and proportionably thick, with large beards; the pira, two feet long; and the piranha, which is short and thick, with very sharp teeth, and fatal to all living creatures that come within its reach. None of these fish have scales. The camurin, with a white stripe on both sides; and the camurupin, are both thick and scaly.

The dogs, as if by a natural instinct, do not approach the waters that are muddy, but drink only at those parts where there is a current, from an innate dread of the piranhas, which lurk about with destructive intent in the dead waters.

The Correntes, which has a course of about one hundred and forty miles, issues from a lake, and runs first under the name of Formozo, receiving another river of the same name, and afterwards the Eguas, Guara, and Arrojado. It affords navigation for a considerable space, and disembogues into the St. Francisco ten miles below the chapel of Bom Jesus da Lappa. All the branches mentioned issue from the skirts or proximity of the serra of Paranan. Some run through auriferous countries, where mining has originated only a few years, and which has been the occasion of founding in the vicinity of the river Eguas a chapel of Our Lady of Glory, whose parish contained six hundred and eighty-four families, with one thousand nine hundred and ninety-eight adults, in the year 1809; many being breeders of cattle, others agriculturists.

The Rio Grande, whose original name is not known, and for which the present one was substituted, in consequence of the ridiculous and prevailing custom in the Brazil of designating many large rivers, of various districts, by the term of Rio Grande, (Large River,) thereby creating a confusion of names, has fifty leagues of course, and originates in the serra of Paranan, near the register of St. Domingos, about five leagues from the source of the Guara, a branch of the Correntes. After flowing a considerable way, the Mosquito joins it, and five leagues lower the Femeas, which rises fifteen miles from Serra Tabatinga; twelve miles further it is entered by the Ondas, which originates eight miles from the preceding, and nearer the Sobrado, an arm of the Tucantines, and runs rapidly through a gold and diamond country. Fifteen miles below, it receives the Branco, navigable to the situation of Tres Barras, so called in consequence of the union with it of the Riachao and the Janeiro, which enter in front of each other; seventy miles lower also on the left, the Preto joins, which is one of its largest[378] tributaries, and rises in the skirts of the Serra Figuras, which is a continuation of that of Mangabeiro, from whence issue the other branches mentioned, excepting the Riachao. Its first name is the river of Doirados, and its current of clear water is rapidly impelled through a winding bed, edged with steep margins. It passes near the village of Formoza, which has a hermitage of Senhor do Bom Fim, and by the parish of St. Ritta, which is forty miles below the other, and the same distance above the mouth of the river. The Rio Grande, which enters the St. Francisco fifty miles below the confluence of the Preto, is navigable to the mouth of the Ondas, and without falls to the Branco, passes the parish of St. Anna de Campo Largo, which is thirty-five miles above the embouchure of the Preto; it is well stored with the sorubin, crumatan, large doirados, the piranha, piau, martrinchan, and other sorts of fish. Its water has a very different colour from the river which receives it, and remains unchanged for a considerable distance after entering the St. Francisco.

The town of Barra do Rio Grande is at the northern angle of the confluent which affords it the name, is in a state of mediocrity, well supplied with meat and fish, and has some commerce. The church is dedicated to St. Francisco das Chagas; and the number of its inhabitants is included in one thousand and thirty-six families. The passage of the St. Francisco, here a mile wide, is much frequented.

Pilao Arcado, created a town in 1810, is one hundred miles below the preceding, and is well situated near a small hill upon the margin of the St. Francisco, its only resource for water, and whose greatest inundations always visit it with some injury. The church, dedicated to St. Antonio, is new, and solidly built with bricks and lime. The houses are generally earth and wood, and many of them covered with straw. It has three hundred families, which are increasing, and, with those of its vast district, comprise five thousand inhabitants, who cultivate mandioca, maize, vegetables, good melons, and water-melons, upon the margins of the river. The land around it is generally wild and sterile, and alone appropriated to the breeding of cattle, which are subject to the horrible mortality, produced by frequent droughts. There are a great many small lakes, at various distances from the river, all more or less brackish, and upon whose margins the salt,[379] formed by the ardent heat of the sun, appears like hoarfrost. The water of these lakes (and even soft water) filtered through a contiguous earth in wooden vessels, or leather finely perforated, and exposed on boards to the weather, in eight days of heat crystallizes, becoming salt as white as marine salt. Although in lands which have proprietors, they are, like auriferous soils, reputed common to all those who wish to benefit by them, and are a great resource for the poor, almost all the salt here produced is transmitted to the centre of Minas Geraes.

Villa Real de Santa Maria, situated upon an island three miles long, and a great distance below the preceding, has the aspect of an aldeia, with one hundred and sixty families, chiefly Indians, who are hunters, fishermen, and agriculturists, and are exempt from tribute. Their wives spin and weave cotton, and work in the manufactory of earthenware, of which a considerable portion is exported.

The town of N. Senhora d’Assumpçao takes the name from the patroness of its church. The inhabitants, comprising one hundred and fifty-four families, are all Indians; they fish, hunt, and cultivate mandioca, maize, water-melons, hortulans, and cotton. It is at the western extremity of an island eighteen miles long, and the same distance below the preceding town. In front of this island is the middling arraial and julgado of Quebrobo, with a church of Conceiçao, whose parishioners, about eighteen hundred and twenty-seven families of all complexions, are mostly dispersed over its vast district. Cotton and cattle are their productions.

Flores, erected into a town in the year 1810, is yet small and in the vicinity of the river Pajehu. A filial chapel of the parish of Quebrobo serves it for a church. The inhabitants draw their subsistence from the breeding of cattle, and the culture of cotton.

Symbres, formerly Ororoba, is a small town of Chucuru Indians, with some whites and mesticos, cultivators of cotton and the provisions of the country. The wives of the first make earthenware with considerable art, and spin and weave cotton. They utter great lamentations when their husbands do not bring home game from the woods. The church is dedicated to the Lady of the Mountain; and its population consists of four hundred and eighty families.

The considerable arraial, julgado, and parish of St. Antonio, in the district of Garanhuns, bordering upon the preceding, is of this comarca, having been, with the latter one, dismembered from that of the Recife. Its people grow cotton.

In this ouvidorship is also the parish of St. Anna do Sacramento do Angical, dismembered from that of Campo Largo, from which it is distant thirty miles, and ten from the margin of the Rio Grande.

Having concluded the description of the province, we will now proceed to a consideration of its capital, commonly called Pernambuco, (which name is a corruption of Paranabuco, by which the Cahetes designated the port, where at the present day the smallest class of vessels anchor,) and is understood to comprehend two distinct places, the city of Ollinda and the town of Recife, (so called from the reef in front of it,) with an interval of a league, communicating by a narrow sand-bank from north to south, also by an arm of the sea that enters the small river Biberibe, which runs along the said sand-bank from one place to the other, and likewise by a road on the main land, at no great distance from the western margin of the same river.

Recife, which is the official designation of the capital, the government documents being so signed, is large, populous, and commercial, with tolerable houses, handsome churches, a convent of priests of the congregation of Oratorio, another of Franciscans, a third of slippered Carmelites, an alms and entertaining house of Terra Santa, another of Italian Barbonios, a recolhimento of women, an episcopal palace, and an hospital of Lazarettos. The Jesuits had a college here, which now constitutes the palace of the governors. This town is divided into three portions, or districts, by the river Capibaribe, namely, Recife, St. Antonio, and Boavista. Each of these forms a separate parish, and they communicate by two bridges; that of Boavista, which is chiefly of wood, and paved, is three hundred and twenty paces long; that of St. Antonio, two hundred and ninety paces across, was in great part of stone, but having given way, the remainder is imperfectly supplied with wood, not admitting of the passage of a carriage, and has been allowed to remain for a considerable time in this condition, so disreputable to the town. At each end it has a stone arch of rather an elegant construction, above which there are small chapels, niches, and saints, where mass is celebrated. In the street, fronting the niches with saints, many of the inhabitants prostrate themselves, at dusk, for some time in a posture of devotion. The bridges are flat and not many feet above the level of the sea.

The first part, or the Recife, occupies a peninsula, and is the emporium of the town’s commerce, the stores of the merchants being situated in it. The tongue of land, or sand-bank before mentioned, which extends itself from Ollinda to the south between the sea and the river Biberibe, terminates here.[381] It is the site of the custom-house, which of itself is an indifferent edifice. The Rua das Cruzes is the best street, and although short is wide and neat; the others are mostly paved, but are narrow and inelegant. Its church, which is handsome, and commonly designated Corpo Santo, has for its nominal patron St. Pedro Gonsalvez.

The second portion of the town, called St. Antonio, occupies another peninsula, which is the northern extremity of the island, formed by two arms of the Capibaribe. It was first planted with cocoa-nut trees by Prince Nassau, the Dutch governor, who erected Fribourg House for his own residence, and founded the town of Mauritius upon it. It has better streets than the Recife, although generally sandy, and not paved, with high footways laid with bricks. Here is a small square, surrounded with neat houses, having only a ground floor, with a piazza to the interior front, and may be denominated a species of bazar, consisting solely of shops, where a variety of articles are sold. The mother church is dedicated to SS. Sacramento. The treasury and the governor’s palace are situated here. The latter is not the residence of the governor, but contains various public offices, and is used for a sort of levee, held upon occasions of the birthday of any of the royal family.

The third part of the town, called Boavista, is the only portion susceptible of any considerable increase, being situated on the continent. It has advanced in magnitude with the others, but is destitute of regularity, which may be attributed to the negligence of the senate in not having marked out the streets in right lines at its commencement. Its church is also dedicated to SS. Sacramento. Here also the Dutch governor built the first house, which he called Boavista, and, being a Portuguese name, the place has retained it. These three portions, running in a line from east to west, form this large and flourishing town, which, besides the governor, has an ouvidor, a port admiral, a Juiz de Fora, each of them having various inspections, and three royal professors of Latin, one of philosophy, and another of eloquence and poetry. The usual junta, or council da fazenda real, to decide upon all matters relative to the province, is composed of the governor, the ouvidor, the Juiz de Fora, the attorney-general, the port admiral, the chief of the treasury, and the judge or comptroller of the custom-house, who hold their sittings at the treasury. The suburbs are an extensive plain, with handsome cocoa-nut tree groves, interspersed with sitios, or country-houses. The inhabitants drink the water principally of the Biberibe, collected into a reservoir at Ollinda, formed by a sort[382] of barrier, denominated a varadoiro, which impedes the further advance of the tide, and accumulates the fresh water above. This bulwark, which also serves as a bridge or passage over the river to Ollinda, is in part covered by a handsome archway, below which the water passes through circular spouts, and at the other parts by larger and square channels; presenting altogether twenty-four mouths, from whence the water issues in spray, forming many pleasing cascades. From hence it is conveyed in covered canoes for the supply of the Recife. The water of the Capibaribe is also brought in canoes from Monteiro.

The port of Recife, which is not deep enough for vessels of a large class, is amongst the most wonderful works of nature. A recife, or chain of reef, which extends itself from the entrance of Bahia to Cape St. Roque, parallel with and at no great distance from the shore, in no part appears so much like an operation of human art as here. It is prolonged for the space of a league in a direct line with and about two hundred yards from the beach, having the aspect of a large flat wall, being always above the level of the sea, and at low water six feet is discovered. This reef, which is perpendicular on the land side, and gradually declining on the other, here suddenly disappears opposite the most northern part of the Recife, having on its extremity the fort of Picao, and forming a fine harbour, which must have been the sole inducement for the foundation of the capital in this situation. Vessels entering the port navigate as near as possible to the internal side of the reef, where they require much depth till they arrive at the most commodious place of anchorage. The occasionally agitated ocean here finds its bounds, and dashes in tumultuous and angry waves against the reef, the foaming spray not disturbing the smooth water within, but affording a delightfully cooling freshness, as well as an interesting spectacle, to the houses situated upon the beach, and principally occupied in stores by the merchants. Large ships anchor to the north of the fort of Picao, in a bay without shelter, fronting the forts of Brun and Buraco, situated upon the before-mentioned sand-bank. The fort of Brun, which the Dutch commenced on the 25th of June, 1631, and gave it the name of a maternal relative of their General Theodore, had for some time among the Pernambucanans the appellation of Perreril.

This place, while yet of little consequence, was taken by the Dutch in 1630, who retained it for twenty-four years, and did more for it in public works during that time, as was candidly admitted to me by a Portuguese gentleman holding a public situation here, than has ever been done since. Among the monuments which attest the spirit of improvement that marked the Dutch possession[383] of this part of the Brazil, there is (or was a few years ago) a stone of European marble bearing the following inscription:

This stone was seen by several of the English merchants within the last three years at the door of the church of Corpo Santo, among the masonry work destined for the completion of this fine edifice; but it certainly is not introduced into the walls of the building, nor could I discover any trace of it.

The before-mentioned forts, and that of Cinco Pontas, at the southern extremity of St. Antonio, are the principal ones that defend the place; the two first are in good order.

A league to the south of Recife, near the southern arm of the Capibaribe, is the arraial of Affogadas, which is increasing, and is ornamented with three hermitages, of Nossa Senhora of Paz, of Rozario, and of St. Miguel. There is here a wooden bridge communicating with St. Antonio.

The city of Ollinda, which, as has been observed, constitutes a part of Pernambuco, was burnt by the Dutch in 1631, and is beautifully situated upon a cluster of eminences, which are the commencement of a small cordillera, that extends itself towards the interior of the continent. It was in former times rich, flourishing, and powerful, and was erected into an episcopal city in the year 1676, but continued to fall into decay, and is at present poor and thinly inhabited, owing to the vicinity of the town of Recife, which has deprived it of all its commerce. It is, however, a fine retreat for the studious, convalescent, or misanthropical, who seek retirement from the tumult and bustle of the world. It has a house of misericordia, with its hospital, a recolhimento, or Magdalen[384] house, a convent of Franciscans, one of unslippered Carmelites, another of slippered Carmelites, and a fourth of Benedictines; a palace in which the governors in former times were obliged to reside six months in the year; an episcopal palace, finely situated, but much deteriorated, being unoccupied in consequence of the death of the bishop; a seminary in the ex-Jesuitical college, with schools, and professors of Greek, Latin, French, geography, rhetoric, universal history, philosophy, drawing, ecclesiastical history, dogmatical and moral theology, a great number of hermitages, and a garden of trees and exotic plants, chiefly Asiatic, from whence the farmers can transplant them into their own grounds. It has also the bread-fruit tree and Otaheitan cane, and occupies an advantageous situation, but is not kept in good order. This city is divided into two parishes, one of them being of the cathedral, which is a magnificent edifice, with three naves, dedicated to St. Salvador, and contains eight hundred and eighty houses; the other has for parochial the church of St. Pedro Martin, and comprises three hundred and fifteen houses.

The senate is rich; almost all the houses pay to it a testoon (three hundred reas) of tax for each span of front. Almost all have large gardens, but generally of little or no utility. The ground is appropriated to the cultivation of fruitful trees, of which mangoes are the principal.

The last donatory of this province affirmed that Ollinda, when it was burned, had two thousand five hundred houses, which were estimated to contain twenty-five thousand inhabitants.

The decay of Ollinda was considered by many of its inhabitants as a punishment for the pride of its rich and leading persons, whose libertinism had arrived at such a pitch, that an orator preaching on a festival day in one of the parish churches, and energetically declaiming against the vices prevailing in the country, some of the principal people commanded him to be silent, and dragged him with violence from the pulpit, without the auxiliary priests being able to prevent the outrage.

The convents, which are handsome and well-built, occupy the finest situations in Ollinda, generally upon the acclivity or summits of the eminences, from whence the views are interesting. Some of these religious establishments have now but few friars, and one of them was occupied by a military detachment. The walls surrounding the grounds of several, I observed, were broken down in many parts, and in a state of dilapidation; and the enclosures, which would have formed fine pleasure grounds, were barren, unplanted, and quite neglected.

On proceeding from hence by the sand-bank to the Recife, I was suddenly [385]startled at the appearance of a human skull and bones, near a pillar or beacon situated between the two forts. Considerably impressed by so unexpected a sight, and moving slowly forward with such feelings as it was calculated to excite, not having any other idea but that they were the remains of some murdered person, I found myself in the midst of human bones, over-spreading the summit of the sand-bank. I now began to surmise that it was the cemetery of the blacks, which was confirmed on my arrival at the Recife. The dead bodies of the negroes are wrapped up in a piece of coarse cotton cloth, and being thinly covered with sand is the reason of their remains soon becoming thus indecently exposed. I understand that the white people were at one time also interred here. The English have a burying-ground at St. Amaro, not far from Boavista.

The roads branching off from Pernambuco into the interior are very good for a few miles, although sandy, and in some parts deep. They soon begin to contract into narrow bridle-ways, and are the tracks of troops of horses coming from the certams with cotton principally, and some other produce. The horses here are, from the sandy nature of the roads, never shod, and those driven from the interior by the mattutos[41] (inhabitants of the mattos, or woods) are generally very miserable and poor, and seem almost to give way under the burden of two bags of cotton, attached one on each side to a rudely constructed pack-saddle. Cords are commonly used by these persons for stirrups, into which they introduce the great toe. Their dress, consisting of a coarse cotton shirt hanging loosely over drawers, or trowsers, reaching to the calf of the leg, with a large slouching straw or black hat, a gun occasionally borne over one shoulder, and a sword in a wooden sheath, awkwardly suspended from a leathern belt, gives them a singular appearance. Some of these groups are rather of a superior order, being dressed in brown leathern overalls, a jacket, and a low round hat of the same. Parties of men and horses are thus continually arriving at and departing from Pernambuco. The men exhibit a great variety of complexions, and not one is to be seen that can be said to be of pure European descent, all having a mixture of Indian and African physiognomy. They are generally active and well formed. Few are Indians, more are mesticos.

The cotton planters, as well as proprietors of sugar works, visit the emporium of Pernambucan commerce in their gayest vestments, with their horses caparisoned[386] in all the trappings and paraphernalia of Portuguese saddlery. The Brazilians generally, when they go from home, are fond of external show, without regard to much neatness, and upon those occasions they form a striking contrast to their general disgusting appearance in their domestic circles. There the men are usually seen with a dressing gown, or a shirt worn loosely over drawers, without stockings, their breasts exposed, and indulging inert and slovenly propensities. The females, having this example before them, claim some allowance for their loose and slatternly mode of dressing, when at home, and their worse habit of generally expectorating, without regard to person, time, or place. Young females are entitled to much consideration also, on account of the illiberal system pursued in their education and manner of bringing up. They are, it may be said, almost excluded from society; and the suspicious treatment they experience from their parents must tend to extinguish every liberal and moral sentiment; in fact, it cannot be considered that those very parents themselves possess much, or they would not subject them to an ungracious and scrutinizing watch, by generally keeping them shut up, so that they do not enjoy even the necessary exercise for health, to which their Turkish mode of sitting on the ground or upon mats, is not very congenial. If a family walk out, the daughters precede the father and mother, and the negroes, frequently composing the whole household, bring up the rear. Their grand opportunities for displaying their persons are religious holidays and festivals, and the midnight masses at the churches are said to be fully attended by the females.

The lady of General Rego, the governor, who is a very accomplished woman, has endeavoured, very amiably but ineffectually, to introduce a social intercourse amongst the families, and particularly the females, of Pernambuco; and although this lady succeeded in making a commencement, it was afterwards declined by the families themselves, from the ridiculous excuse that it would become expensive to have new dresses for every fresh visit. The general also gave a public ball to the inhabitants, which was followed by one on the part of the English merchants; but it would appear, with the exception of some of the leading persons, that the inhabitants, from their little intercourse with the world, are yet inimical to any refined system of society.

The cotton planters, and senhors d’engenho in the interior, are stated to be liberal and hospitable to strangers; and many of them, who have been recently acquiring considerable property, live in a comparatively comfortable style.

Apathy is a strong characteristic in the lower orders of Brazilians. In my various excursions near Pernambuco, I have seen men, at all hours of the day,[387] stretched out upon tables, upon mats, or in redes, (nets,) slumbering their time away. If this class of people can obtain sufficient to satisfy the wants of the day, their views extend no further, and industry is no where seen amongst them; besides, the agricultural arm is paralysed nearly one-third of the year by holidays and saint days.

I was very hospitably entertained during a portion of my stay at Pernambuco by John Lempriere, Esq. the British consul, whose sitio is at the Solidado, a small hamlet, in which is situated a palace, formerly belonging to the bishop. It is a fine edifice, and built with uniformity, but is now rapidly sinking into decay, which will not be less accelerated by the use to which it is at present appropriated—that of a barrack. I brought a letter of introduction to Mr. Cockshott, when we immediately recognised each other as old acquaintances, his family and mine having been upon the most intimate terms of friendship for many years. I experienced great kindness from him, as well as many of the English merchants residing here, and spent a portion of my time at his country sitio, pleasantly situated at Ponta de Cho, upon the margin of the Capibaribe, from whence I was accompanied by Mr. Ray, the American consul, who also has a house here, to visit many of the neighbouring places, and cannot upon this occasion refrain from doing justice to my feelings, in acknowledging his frank and spontaneous attention and liberality.

The rides from Recife to Ponta de Cho, by several roads, are equally delightful, being partly bordered with lime hedges, and fences formed of the cocoa branch, interspersed with verdant foliage, and all the variety of fruit trees peculiar to the clime; groups of the high towering cocoa-nut tree heighten the beauty of the scenery, every where richly wooded.

The roads branching from Boavista, and meeting in one, about half-way to Ponta de Cho, are adorned with some elegant white houses, in a very excellent state of exterior repair, the grounds being enclosed by lofty walls, and many of the front entrances, consisting of a handsome portico, excelling any thing in this style near Rio de Janeiro. Every hundred yards, places of this character are met with to Ponta de Cho, where the river opens out and presents a very pleasing scene, the road running for a short distance along its margin, fronted by the residence of the governor, not very gracefully ornamented with a chapel in the middle of the entrance court. From hence the main road leaves the river, and for about two miles presents many neat houses to the Poco de Panela, some of them being the residences of English merchants.

In this interval the village of Casa Forte is passed, celebrated for having been[388] one of the scenes of contest between the Dutch and Portuguese. The village of Poço de Panela is upon the left bank of the river, and is enlivened with houses of much more taste and neatness than a stranger would expect to see, with the impressions made upon his mind on landing at Recife.

It must be observed, that although the environs of Pernambuco have a fertilized appearance, in consequence of being well wooded, the soil is in a miserable state of cultivation, and not rendered so productive, by two-thirds, as it might be, being very generally uncleared of the brushwood, and a great portion remaining in its primeval condition. Proceeding from Ponta de Cho, by the Cruz das Almas road, which leads to Ollinda, a great proportion of the surrounding country is in a wild state; here and there are seen small patches of mandioca, groves of cocoa-nut, and other fruit trees, but the general aspect demonstrates the want of industry, for it would be expected that every yard of ground so near to a commercial city, with nearly one hundred vessels of different classes usually lying in its port, would be in progress at least of agricultural improvement. It is also remarkable, that between Recife and Ollinda, which latter city was formerly the seat of government and the centre of commerce, there is not a good road the whole way, parts of it for a considerable distance assuming the appearance of a mere track. The present governor has ordered a road to be commenced by a nearer route, and in many places the germ of improvement in this essential point is observable, new roads being partly made and staked out. Intelligence and civilization is only diffused through a country by facility of communication, and to General Rego, the Pernambucanans are indebted for promoting this blessing; the roads in the immediate vicinity of the town have been widened and otherwise improved by his orders; and it is highly to be wished that such a spirit, tending so much to the real benefit of the province, may be encouraged. The revolution here, in 1817, is said to have materially retarded improvement, as that measure was brought about, not from any genuine sentiments of liberty, the four or five persons at the head of it being only desirous of procuring their individual aggrandizement; and it is said that such jealousy at last existed amongst them, that they attended the council secretly armed. They were men of no talent, and the principal actor, Senhor Martyens, was a decayed Portuguese merchant, from London. They, as well as many others, paid the forfeit of their lives for prematurely attempting a change which they did not understand, but which the lapse of a few years has, happily for the advancement of this country, brought about.

The new constitution of Portugal, already adopted at Para and Bahia, was [389]spontaneously acceded to by the governor, the different public officers, and the people, without any effusion of blood, in the month of January, 1821. The imprisonment at Bahia, since 1818, of some of the first men of Pernambuco, arrested on suspicion of being implicated in the revolution, will now no doubt have its termination. That event brought upon Pernambuco a strict military government, and at the corner of every street after dusk, the ear was assailed by the military watch-word; under such a system, the inhabitants could not have been more fortunate than in the selection of General Rego for their governor, whose military experience was acquired with much credit in the Peninsular campaign, and whose gentlemanly and friendly conduct would tend to soften the rigours of a military occupation of the town. To the ready assistance and attention of the governor to all matters in which their interests are concerned, the English merchants bear their united testimony.

During the Christmas holidays, and the hottest weather, Poço de Panela, Ponta de Cho, and the neighbouring, and more distant villages of Monteiro (the road to which partly leads by a bridle-way through woods) and of Caxanga, (where there is a spring of chalybeate water, approached also by a bye-way after crossing the river,) are fully occupied by the families of Recife, in their gayest attire and the ladies are frequently seen at the windows or at the doors, the men devoting the days of the holidays to gambling, seated in the verandas, playing at cards or backgammon. At this season the roads are also enlivened with horsemen going their evening rounds to these places of resort. Another very pleasing excursion to Ponta de Cho, Poço de Panela, and Monteiro, is by the river Capibaribe, whose winding banks are bordered with white cottages and houses, some of a very superior appearance, also inhabited during this period, and each having a bathing house rudely enough formed of the branches of the cocoa-nut tree. Innumerable canoes are seen gliding along the river, impelled with more velocity than by the oar or the paddle, by two vara men, who are negroes dressed in white cotton trowsers, exhibiting all the muscular movements of their naked arms and bodies in the exertion of using the vara, which, when well and regularly executed, is rather a graceful labour. A whole family, with furniture, and all the et ceteras, are moved up the river to their summer abode in this manner; and the ladies, in their smart dresses, with French hats and white plumes nodding to the river’s breeze, do not seem to regret that it is but transient liberty they are going to enjoy, and which they indulge in by a more free exhibition of themselves, and also by daily bathing in the river, probably two or three times, remaining in the water an hour or an hour and a half at[390] once. They are said to be more expert divers and swimmers than the men, and it is not rare to see parties of them swimming about with much confidence, their hair being generally neatly dressed and bound up. One evening, on approaching the banks of the river beyond Monteiro, with Mr. Ray, some females were bathing, and amongst them were an old gentleman and his young wife, with whom Mr. R. was acquainted. We took off our hats, and the compliment was very cordially returned by the whole party, by a low dip in the water; on re-passing a considerable time afterwards we observed them still enjoying this refreshing amusement. Previously to my leaving Ponta de Cho, the premier chuvas (first rains) were setting in, and the river already conveyed many canoes with families and their furniture on the return. The heaviest rains begin about March, when this part of the country is partially inundated and forsaken till the dry season recommences. There are various religious festivals during the holidays at different churches, in honour of saints. Those that appeared to attract the most attention were at the church of the Mount at Ollinda, at St. Amaro, and the Poço de Panela; to the latter, the English subscribed a certain sum each. Many people were assembled, and the houses were dedicated to the purposes of gambling. The multitude seemed to loiter about without any object, and there was a deadness and want of spirit and gaiety in their general demeanor. The church was open, which I entered in the midst of the ceremony of christening a child; a large lighted wax candle was as quickly introduced into my hand, and I was thus enlisted into the ranks. A band of music was playing in the gallery, to dissipate the shrill notes of the youngster, who was fingered rather roughly by the padre in the course of various ceremonies he performed, and in which he applied a considerable portion of salt. When the infant, after undergoing the last form of having a silver crown placed upon its head, was returned to its mother, it appeared quite exhausted; and a pretty general round of embracing concluded the ceremony. The master of the festa, and his wife and daughters were there: the females were splendidly dressed, but the absence of the graces prevented these adornments from having their due effect upon the imagination. The fire-works supplied by the subscription, and which concluded this festival, were, I understood, very indifferent.

The Christmas holidays are deemed by the merchants a great interruption to commerce, as no shipments can be made or business transacted during that period. The English establishments here amount to sixteen, and through their medium this province is supplied with every species of English manufactures. They labour, as has been previously stated, under considerable difficulties, in [391]consequence of the mal-operation of the pauta. The produce shipped from hence, consists principally of cotton and sugar; of the latter, about twenty-five thousand cases annually, nearly one-half to England, and the remainder to Lisbon: the quantity of the former averages about eighty thousand bags, sixty thousand being sent to Great Britain, and the remainder principally to Lisbon. The Pernambuco cotton is the best in the Brazil, arising in part from the rigid inspection which it undergoes. A new inspection house was erected here, upon the beach, called the Forte do Matto, in the year 1815. The cotton is bought by the merchant at a certain price, when it is submitted to inspection and divided into three qualities; for the second quality, which is permitted to pass with the first, the merchant receives an allowance of five hundred reas per arrobe, from the planter; the third quality is totally rejected. The bags are then weighed for the merchant to pay the export duty, and as one bag is only weighed at a time, there has been considerable delay in getting the cotton through the inspection house for shipment. The present governor attended here, and attempted to make arrangements for weighing the cotton quicker, but matters shortly afterwards reverted to their anterior state. Sugar is classed into nine different qualities, and distinguished by the following marks, commencing with the finest and continuing by gradations downwards.

The sugar engenhos are some of them very considerable, and the two accompanying plates are representations of the exterior and interior of the Engenho de Torre not far from the right margin of the Capibaribe. The owner, who has amassed a respectable property, very politely allowed four gentlemen with myself to see this establishment. The juice is extracted by the compressure of the cane between three upright rollers, the centre one moving the other two, and being itself constantly carried round by relays of mares, which have a singular appearance from their ears being closely cropped. The juice flows along a channel to a lower apartment in the building, where it goes through the different[392] processes of boiling, and when completed is much inferior to the West-Indian sugar, and generally in a very dirty state.

The English merchants were desirous of getting a clergyman from England, having been without the performance of divine service for a considerable period; and, besides the want of an opportunity to fulfil one of the most essential and important duties in life, an unfavourable impression could not but operate against them in the minds of the inhabitants, from their having no public observance of religion. The contribution fund, in the hands of the committee, amounts to upwards of five thousand pounds, which those gentlemen have been anxious to apply to the purposes for which it is intended, that of building a church and an hospital, and the payment of a clergyman and a medical man, which latter appointment is filled by Dr. Ramsay, a gentleman of great acquirements in his profession, and deservedly and universally beloved and esteemed.

I accompanied him and some of the merchants, upon one occasion, amongst many others in which they had been endeavouring to obtain suitable buildings for a church, hospital, and residences for the doctor and a clergyman. The building which we saw had been recently erected, was very spacious, surrounded with some grounds, and well adapted for the purpose; the reason it was not rented or purchased arose from the proprietor demanding an exorbitant price.[42]

We, at the same time, paid a visit to Mr. Koster, (a gentleman known to the literary world by the publication of his travels in the northern part of the Brazil,) who had just arrived at Recife from Goyanna, from whence, in consequence of his indifferent state of health, he travelled in a net suspended between two horses, which was rendered, he said, a less disagreeable mode of conveyance, by the ambling pace of the horses. Mr. Koster had removed his residence to Goyanna, in hopes that the climate would be more suitable to his health and constitution; but his very delicate appearance indicated a rapid decline, and I regret to say that he did not long survive.

The population of Pernambuco is estimated at about sixty-five thousand persons, St. Antonio containing much the greatest proportion. I endeavoured to discover the site and remains of Fribourg House, the first edifice built upon it by Prince Maurice of Nassau; and was finally assured that its remains constitute the present Casa de Fazenda Real, which, though exhibiting some antiquity in its aspect, in consequence of being white-washed, could not be identified with positive certainty. But its appearance, (pretty correctly represented in the [393]plate,) combined with the tradition that it is actually the remains of Fribourg House, does not leave much room to doubt the fact. The convent fronting it has a great many cocoa-nut trees, which no doubt are the fruits of those he so copiously planted upon the island. A Prince who did so much for Pernambuco, in so short a time, and who here built the first two bridges that were known in the Brazil, is not undeserving of some monument in this place to his memory. There is a theatre in St. Antonio; but the performances are exceedingly indifferent, and the house, which is small, but thinly attended, no spirit existing for the encouragement of such an establishment.

This province was originally the capitania of Itamaraca, or rather it comprehends almost two-thirds of it, not comprising at the present day more than sixty miles of coast, computing from the river Goyanna to the bay of Marcos, which is three miles to the north of the river Camaratiba; the province of Pernambuco having taken twenty to twenty-five miles from it on the southern side, and Rio Grande fifteen to twenty on the northern.

The capitania of Itamaraca was never more than a portion of that which John III. gave to Pedro Lopez de Souza in 1534. The other portion of this donation selected in the immediate vicinity of his brother’s capitania of St. Vincente, was denominated St. Amaro; and Itamaraca, being situated at so great a distance from it, experienced less attention, and was so much neglected that, forty years afterwards, there was not an establishment except in the island of Itamaraca, where the colonists did not exceed two hundred families, with three sugar works; and the French entered without interruption the ports of the continent in search of Brazil wood.

It is affirmed that the parish of Nossa Senhora of Conceiçao, in the island of Itamaraca, was the first povoaçao, and also for a considerable period the capital of the capitania; but, as the year of its foundation is not known, we are left in ignorance as to the precise epoch of the disembarkation of the first colonists.

In the short reign of King Henry, in consequence of the incapacity of the donatory to promote its colonization, Joam Tavarez was ordered by the governor-general, Lourenco da Veyga, to proceed to this capitania, for the purpose of founding a prezidio in the island of Camboa, situated in the river Parahiba; which was removed by Captain Fructicozo Barboza to the situation of Cabedello, where being greatly annoyed by the Indians, Manuel Telles, governor of[395] Bahia, despatched Diogo Baldez, in the year 1583, to afford him the necessary succour. The Indians and the French, who were their auxiliars, sustained a defeat; and Francisco Castrejon, commandant of a fort, which he had then constructed, would not recognise Fructicozo Barboza as superior, which induced the latter to retire, and the result was an invasion by the Indians, who compelled Castrejon to desert this post.

On his arrival at Pernambuco, Barboza returned with some companies, and having restored all the fortifications, he gave the origin to a povoaçao, which in the year 1585 was ennobled with the title of city, and called Fillippea. Its population had already arrived at seven hundred families, with twenty sugar works, when the Dutch, who had obtained possession of Pernambuco and Itamaraca, determined to conquer it.

After various attempts, during two years, which were always frustrated, it fell into the hands of General Segismundo Escup, in consequence of the capitulation of the fort of Cabedello, on the 19th of December, 1634, who substituted for it the appellation of Margarida, in honour of a Dutch matron. With its reduction, and the surrender of the fort of St. Antonio four days after, the whole province passed under the dominion of the Dutch, till their evacuation of this part of the Brazil in the year 1654.

It lies between 6° 15′ and 7° 15′ south latitude, and extends two hundred and ten miles at its greatest width from east to west.

The longest day in the year does not exceed twelve hours and a half. The winter commences at the equinox of March, and continues till July, and is never severe. The climate is warm, but refreshed by the delightful breezes with which it is visited from the sea. More than two-thirds of the face of the country, generally uneven, consists of catingas, the remainder is of strong substantial and fertile soils, covered with extensive woods, principally upon serras of the greatest elevation, and in the vicinities of some rivers; and it is only in those latter districts, partially divested of their primitive sylvan shades, that cultivation is to be seen, comprised in plantations of the cotton tree, sugar cane, mandioca, Indian corn, legumes, tobacco, with some rice; and also the hortulans and fruits peculiar to the climate, including the pine-apple, water-melon, banana, and the orange, which are of excellent flavour.

Capes and Islands.—Point Cabedello, south of the embouchure of the river Parahiba; Point Lucena, six miles north of the preceding; and Cape Branco, fifteen miles south of the first, are the principal.

There are no islands upon the coast of this province but in the mouths of rivers or the entrances of bays, and they are generally small.

Ports.—That within the river Parahiba is the most frequented. The bay of Traicao, originally Acejutibiro, in the form of a half moon, with three entrances formed by two small islands, almost eight miles in width, having a small river at the extremity, is deemed the best port of the province, and capable of receiving a considerable number of small vessels. The northern entrance is almost two miles in width. From this bay a reef extends nearly eighteen miles to Cape Branco, between which and the beach there are nine and ten fathoms of depth, where vessels anchor in smooth water, protected from the agitation of the ocean by this recife, which is a portion of the celebrated chain extending along the coast, elevating its head occasionally above the water, as at Pernambuco, and in other latitudes.

The bay of Lucena, on the northern side of the point of the same name, is large, with a good anchorage, but is exposed to winds prevailing from north to east.

Rivers.—The Parahiba, from which the province takes its name, originates in the district of the Cayriris Velhos, in the skirts of the serra of Jabitaca, near the source of the Capibaribe, runs to the east-north-east, and is considerable only in the vicinity of the ocean, into which it is discharged by two mouths, separated by the island of St. Bento, which is about three miles in extent. As the territory in which it rises is of a sandy nature, it becomes a stream in that district only during the period of the rains, nor does it receive till after half its course, any of those tributary currents which render it navigable for a considerable space. Ships advance up only a few miles, sumacas to the capital, and canoes as far as the town of Pilar. From hence upwards, its bed is stony, with many falls and currents rendering difficult or entirely impeding navigation. It does not abound in any part with fish. In the proximity of the sea it is wide and handsome, the margins being adorned with mangroves.

The Guarahu, which is the largest of its confluents, unites it on the left, not far from the capital.

The Mamanguape, which is handsome, and affords an advantageous navigation to the planters upon its adjacent lands, enters the ocean by two mouths, divided by a flat island covered with mangroves, between which and the chain of reefs, which arrests all the fury of the sea, there is an excellent anchorage place, where vessels lie in dead water, to which a narrow aperture amongst the[397] reefs affords a passage, with three fathoms of depth, and is little more than ten miles to the north of Point Lucena.

The Grammame, originally Guaramama, which discharges itself between Port Francez and Cape Branco, has a large wooden bridge over it, on the road from Goyanna to the city of Parahiba. It is only navigable as far as the tide advances.

The Cammaratiba, which enters the sea ten miles north of the bay of Traicao, and the Popoca, which discharges itself six miles to the north of the Goyanna, are also navigable with the tide.

In the western part is the Piranhas, which has acquired the name of the fish with which it abounds. Its source is at the base of the serra of Cayriris, and after seventy miles of course to the north, it gathers on the left the river Peixe, which comes from the serra of Luiz Gomez, with fifty miles of extent, always flowing through campinhas, where there are a great many emu-ostriches, and in its vicinity have been found gold and silver. Twenty-five miles below this confluence, it receives on the right the Pinhanco, which is little inferior to it, also flowing from the serra of Cayriris, in a serpentine course through an extensive district, abounding with cattle belonging to various fazendeiros, or breeders, who live dispersed about in different situations. After a long course, having become considerable by other streams, it enters the province of Rio Grande in its way to the ocean.

Mountains.—Almost all the mountains with which this province is interspersed, are arms of the serra Borborema, commencing near the sea, within the province of Rio Grande, which traverse it from north-east to south-west, dividing it into two parts, east and west. The latter, denominated Cayriris Novas, is an elevated country, and being refreshed with winds is wholesome, and also considerably wider than the eastern portion. January, February, March, and April, are here the most rainy months.

In the serra of Teyxeira, which is a portion of the Borborema, there are some inscriptions with green ink, in characters unknown to the adjacent inhabitants, but which are reputed to be the work of the Dutch, or the Flamengos, as they are yet called here.

Zoology.—All the domestic animals of the Portuguese peninsula, multiply here without degenerating much. In the woods are seen the anta, deer, ounce, boar, monkey, quaxinin, preguica, or sloth, paca, quaty, and other quadrupeds common to the neighbouring provinces. There is here a species of ferret, the size of a cat, and resembling the quaty, with which the hunters draw[398] from their burrows the moco and the preha. If the animal perceive a snake in the hole it will not enter. It does not appear to be known southward of the St. Francisco. Amongst the birds are observed the emu-ostrich, seriema, jacu, zabele, quail, parrot, rolla, sabia, troquaze pigeon, canary, cardal, wild duck, colhereira, heron, jaburu, socco, a diversity of the macarico, and the sparrowhawk. The arraponga has the feathers black upon the back. The puppeyro, which is the size of a blackbird, with the bill of a pigeon, blue back, the breast red, and the tail when opened of beautiful colours, is only met with in the woods of the serras. Two Indian nations were the possessors of this country. The Cahetes, from the river Parahiba to the south, and the Potyguaras to the north; each tribe is divided into various hordes, and the whole have been christianized many years since.

Phytology.—Cedar, Brazil wood, aroeira, pereira, batinga, which is yellow, iron and violet wood, fava-de-cheiro, (a species of pulse,) which grows in pods, and whose bean is deemed excellent for removing hoarseness; sipipira, bow-wood, heart of negro, anjico, angellim, jatuba, the cupahyba oil, and gum-mastick trees. In the woods where these trees grow, and where there are others for building, are also met with fruit trees growing without any human aid, such as the jabuticaba, pitomba, goyaba, cajue, ambuzo, and aracaza. The mangaba is very abundant in some parts. The cocoa-nut tree abounds along the coast, which in parts is sandy, in others rocky, or covered with mangroves. The catulez is a sort of large palm tree, the fruit of which affords aliment to cattle. The piki is a middling sized tree, its fruit round, of the size of an apple, with a green rind, and a large prickly stone, the almond of which is eaten roasted or raw; the pulp is white and soft, and is also eaten; an oil is likewise extracted from it, and used for seasoning.

This province produced formerly much excellent sugar, the culture of which has diminished considerably in consequence of the great droughts which are frequently experienced; but in its place cotton has greatly increased, as it resists the heat better, and at the present time does not leave a less profit to the cultivator.

Parahiba, denominated a city, in a state of mediocrity and populous, is situated upon the right bank, ten miles above the embouchure of the river of its name, near the confluence of the small river Unhaby. It is ornamented with a house of misericordia and its hospital; a convent of Franciscans, another of slippered Carmelites, and a third of Benedictines; five hermitages, that of Bom Jesus for the soldiers, Santo Cruz, St. Pedro Gonsalves, Our Lady of Rozario for the blacks, and May dos Homens for the mulattoes; also two handsome fountains of good water. It is the capital of the province, the residence of its governor, and of the ouvidor, whose jurisdiction extends also to the province of Rio Grande. It has its high-sounding royal professors of the primitive letters and Latin, and a junta of real fazenda, (the treasury.) Its only mother church is dedicated to Nossa Senhora das Neves. The Jesuits had a college here, which serves at the present day for the palace of the governors; they possessed another for recreation, at a distance of five miles on the beach of Tambahu, where there is an entertaining house of Franciscans. The principal streets are paved, and there are some good houses. The river, whose entrance is defended by two frontier forts, a league distant, is here a mile in width, forming a good port for sumacas. Ships can only advance a little higher up than the forts. A Juiz de Fora was granted to this city in the year 1813.

The Dutch exchanged its primitive name for that of Friderica, in honour of the Prince of Orange, and presented it with a sugar-loaf for arms, in allusion to the excellent quality of that article, which was made in this district, and in pursuance of the plan they had adopted of granting similar armorial emblems of some leading object or production peculiar to the districts or capitanias then under their dominion.

An Englishman, a Scotchman, and an Irishman have recently settled in this city, and it is to be hoped, that an union will exist in their commercial operations, and that they will be induced to go hand-in-hand, thereby precluding that competition, which has been already alluded to as militating so seriously in other places against the interest of the merchant and manufacturer. These establishments were formed in conjunction with the merchants of Pernambuco, and from hence they receive supplies of manufactured goods, the returns for which are transmitted direct to England in sugar and cotton principally. Besides, additional sums of specie sent from Pernambuco to those merchants for the purchase of produce, give this city the advantage of disposing of a greater portion of the productions of the province than the amount of British commodities consumed in it. During my stay at Pernambuco two or three vessels[400] were sent from thence in ballast to Parahiba to take in produce, the major part of which was purchased with specie remitted for the purpose, and not with the proceeds of goods sold here. The balance of specie in favour of this city, in its interchange of commodities with the British merchant, may arise from various causes. The two or three merchants at Rio de Janeiro, who supply the government with naval and military stores, receive bills in payment upon the Provincial or fora treasuries, and the specie thus and by other remittances coming into the Pernambuco market beyond the returns for goods sold, create an extra demand for produce, arising from the impossibility of transmitting those funds to England in any other way; and thus part of the specie finds its way to this city, from an expectation of its being disposed of to better advantage. Two circumstances concur in producing this result;—in the first place, a considerable part of the produce of the province of Parahiba, till very recently, was brought to the market of Pernambuco; but the measures of the governor to confine the productions of the district under his jurisdiction to an exit by the head town, in order that the treasury may not be deprived of its revenue, has led to a concentration of the objects of exportation in this city, a direct transit to England being opened for them by the establishments mentioned, and whose object, in forwarding them at a lower rate than from Pernambuco, is at all events in the second place accomplished by an exemption from consulage duties.

One of the merchants settled here visited Pernambuco in the early part of 1820, whilst I was there, and purchased a cargo of bacalhao, or salt fish, from Newfoundland, being the sixth vessel which had arrived at Recife so laden in the course of two months, and this was the first entire cargo that had sailed from Pernambuco to Parahiba, demonstrating that this city is in a progressive state of commercial improvement.

In its environs the necessaries of life are cultivated, and the sugar cane, for which there are various engenhos, principally going by water. Towards the interior plantations of the cotton tree are to be seen, especially in the certam of Crumatahu.

Previous to the revolution at Pernambuco, which is said to have extended its baneful consequences to this province, particularly to the vicinity of this city, where the sugar is principally grown, the export of that article exceeded nine hundred chests annually, each containing fifty arrobas, or sixteen hundred pounds; but in 1819 the amount did not reach much above four hundred chests.

Notwithstanding sugar has diminished, the production of cotton is increasing rapidly. In 1816 it was nine thousand bags; in 1819 it reached seventeen thousand[401] bags of five to five and a half arrobas each; and in the year 1820 it was confidently anticipated to reach twenty to twenty-four thousand bags.

The campinhas of this province, which afford cattle to the capital, and in part to Pernambuco and Bahia, when visited by two or three succeeding seasons of drought, entirely lose their vegetation, and the streams disappear, so that a mortality ensues amongst the cattle, carrying them off in great numbers.

The governor of this city is endeavouring to effect some improvement in the roads, or rather tracks, through the province, which are in the same lamentable condition as in all other districts, and it is sincerely to be wished that his efforts may not be fruitless. He has issued orders for all individuals to make roads through their lands.

Ten miles from this city, and upon the margin of the same river, is the considerable arraial of St. Rita, with a hermitage so called.

Pilar do Taypu, forty miles above the capital upon the left bank of the Parahiba, is ornamented with a church of N. Senhora of Pilar. Cariri was its primitive name, when an aldeia of Indians, its first inhabitants, and who even at this day form, with their descendants, the principal portion of its population, cultivating in its environs a good quantity of cotton, mandioca, &c.

Nine miles from it is the arraial and parish of Tayabanna, upon the margin of the same river; and ten miles to the north is that of Cannufistula, with a hermitage; both grow much cotton. Gurunhem is upon a small river of the same name, with a chapel of N. Senhora of Rozario.

Near the Parahiba, and two miles from the town of Pilar, is the parish of St. Miguel; cotton is the wealth of its parishioners.

Alhandra, originally Urathauhy, is a middling town, and well situated near the river Capibary, nine miles north-east of Goyanna, and seven from the sea; it has a church dedicated to N. Senhora of Assumpçao. Its inhabitants are composed of Indians and whites, pure and intermixed, and are agriculturists and fishermen.

Villa do Conde, formerly Japoca, is yet small and without any thing remarkable. It has a church of the Lady of Conceiçao, and is about eighteen miles south of the capital, and near fifteen from the sea. Its inhabitants, Indians, whites, and mesticos, cultivate divers necessaries of life, and draw their water from a good fountain.

The town of St. Miguel, situated near a lake in the proximity of the bay of Trabicao, has the aspect of a small aldeia. Its church is dedicated to the[402] archangel whose name it takes. Its inhabitants are Indians, and draw their subsistence from the same occupations as the preceding places.

Montemor is a vilota, or small town of the descendants of the aborigines, one mile from the northern margin of the Mamanguape, and fifteen from the sea. It had its commencement six miles more distant, where the parish of St. Pedro and St. Paulo is situated, for the habitation of the ancestors of its present inhabitants. The number of whites having greatly increased, and in order to avoid the dissensions which originated with the two hierarchies, it became expedient to separate them; for which purpose a new aldeia was founded with the name of Preguica, for the establishment of the first, in the situation where the town is. Its church is dedicated to the Lady of Prazeres. The senate of this town resides in the parish of St. Pedro and St. Paulo, better known by the name of Mamanguape, in consequence of being near that river. In the year 1813, when its population and that of its extensive district, had nearly reached fifteen thousand adults, it was dismembered of its western portion for the creation of the parish of N. Senhora of Conceiçao do Brejo d’Area.

Villa Real. By a law of the 17th of June, 1815, the above new parish of Conceiçao, was created a town, with the name of Villa Real do Brejo d’Area, its civil government being assisted by two ordinary judges and three vereadores, or aldermen, with other officers common to towns of the same order. It is seventy miles from Montemor, and cotton is its principal production.

Villa da Rainha, vulgarly called Campinha Grande, (Large Plain), in consequence of being a solitary place, in an extensive plain, one hundred and twenty miles west of the capital, is yet a small town, much frequented, however, in consequence of the royal road, (estrada-real) as it is ludicrously called, of the certam. Paupinna was its name previously to its becoming a town. Its inhabitants drink of a contiguous lake, which failing of water in the years of great drought, obliges them to fetch it upwards of six miles. Its church is dedicated to the Lady of Conceiçao.

Pombal, a considerable town, speaking comparatively with others of the country, is well situated upon the river Pinhanco, four miles above its mouth, and one hundred and fifty miles south of Villa Nova da Princeza, a town of Rio Grande. It has for nominal patroness the Lady of Bom Successo (good success.) Its inhabitants, mostly whites, live upon the produce of agriculture, and of cattle, which are not numerous.

Villa Nova de Souza is situated upon the margin of the river Peixe, ten miles[403] above its mouth, thirty-five from Pombal, and has a church of the Lady of Remedios. The inhabitants cultivate legumes, sugar, water-melons, and melons, in the vicinity of the rivers; and on the serras, mandioca, cotton, and Indian corn; in the catingas cattle pasture, and abound with a diversity of game. In the year 1806, there was scarcely an orange tree in the districts of the last two towns, where all the trees are bent to the west, in consequence of the constant and sometimes impetuous east wind that prevails here.

The conquest of this province, which is a portion of the capitania of Joam de Barros, was commenced in the year 1597, by order of Philip II. with the intention of impeding the exportation of Brazil wood by the French, and of overcoming the Potyguaras, who destroyed the plantations of the colonists of Parahiba, and interrupted the progress of that colony.

D. Francisco de Souza, governor of the state, by orders which he received, supplied what was requisite from the royal treasury. The squadron which was prepared at Pernambuco, and carried with it a Jesuit for an engineer, and a Franciscan to interpret the language of the Indians, directed its course to the mouth of Rio Grande, which was the port most visited by the Corsairs. The enterprise had its commencement by the construction of a wooden fort, near the place where the Fort dos Reys is now situated, and the first commandant of which, Jeronimo d’ Albuquerque, had many obstinate combats with the aborigines for more than a year, until the friendship which he established with Sorobabe, (Great Island,) chief of the Indians, through the mediation of a friendly one of the same tribe, afforded him an opportunity of laying the foundation of the city of Natal, which received this name in consequence of the inauguration of its mother church, in 1599, happening on the same day as the festivity of the birth of our Saviour. The want of better ports, the quality of the land, which did not encourage its colonization, and the Portuguese nation being then under the dominion of the Castilian crown, as well as the inconstancy of the[405] Indians, equally unserviceable as friends, as they were fatal when enemies, concurred to prevent this colony from acquiring any considerable augmentation during thirty years.

The Dutch, after being established in Pernambuco, presented themselves several times before the Fort dos Reys, (of Kings,) which always resisted their attacks, until it was ultimately delivered to them by the treason of a sergeant, a deserter from Bahia, who stole the keys of the fort by night, the commandant being seriously wounded, and communicated to Admiral Ceulio, that the garrison would deliver itself up, according to the conditions offered to the commandant and rejected by him. Ceulio perceiving at day-break a white flag hoisted, proceeded immediately towards the fort, which made very little resistance, in consequence of this traitor, and one Orteguera, also an enemy to the commandant, vigorously counselling him to give it up. With the possession of this fort, the Dutch became masters of the province, which was restored with the others in the year 1654.

In the same year John IV. gave part of this province to Manuel Jurdao, who perished by shipwreck at the point of disembarkation, and in consequence of whose death the country reverted to the crown. This province had for some time the title of countship, created in 1689, in favour of Lopo Furtado de Mendonca. It is confined on the north and east by the ocean, on the south by the province of Parahiba, and on the west by that of Siara, from which it is separated by the serra of Appody, which is about a league to the west of the river so called. It lies between 4° 10′ and 6° 15′ south latitude; the days and nights differ very little in length all the year. The climate is hot and healthy. The winter, commonly not abundant in rain, continues from April to June in the eastern part; in the western scarcely any other rains fall, but those which accompany thunder, beginning usually in January or February. It comprises one hundred and seventy miles from east to west, in the greatest width, and one hundred from north to south, on the western side. The face of the country is generally uneven, and presents some mountains of considerable altitude, and also woods, but they are rare, and of no great extent, the greatest portion consisting of parched catingas. Notwithstanding the soil in various parts is adapted to the plantation of the cane, its culture was never considerable, and it gradually diminishes; cotton being substituted for it almost in all parts, with less expense and equal profit to the planter. Mandioca, Indian corn, legumes, and hortulans of the country, are generally cultivated, as well as some rice and tobacco in sufficient quantity for the population.

Negroes are not numerous in this province; the Indians, who were very ferocious, have all been reduced many years, and their descendants, through the medium of alliances with the Europeans and Africans, have augmented the classes of whites and mulattoes, who for the most part indulge in idleness, and improperly deem it a degradation to apply their personal labour, with instruments of agriculture, for the improvement of their country.

Capes and Ports.—Cape St. Roque forms the angle of this region to the north-east.

Point Pipa took its name from a stone, in a degree resembling a tunnel, caused by the sea continually beating against it. A little to the south of this point there are four abundant fountains of soft water upon the beach.

Point Negra is seven miles to the north of the preceding, and almost as far south of the river Tareyri.

Point Petetinga, Point Toiro, Point Tres Irmaos, Point Tubarao, between the rivers Aguamare and the Amargoso, and Point Mel, which is between the Appody and the Conchas, are all upon the northern coast of the province. It has neither ports nor bays capable of receiving a squadron of ships of much burden; there is, however, the Bay Formoza upon the eastern coast, with seven miles of mouth, three of bay, and four fathoms in depth at low water, but it is overspread with stones and unsheltered.

Mineralogy.—It has gold, minerals of iron and silver, flint stones, calcareous stone, granite, amethysts, crystals, and argils of various colours and quality.

Mountains.—The serra Estrella is in nothing comparable with that of the same name in the province of Beyra.

The serra St. Cosme, with a hermitage, St. Domingos, St. Joze, Camelo, with eighteen miles of length, and Pannaty, at the heads of the Pinhanco; Bonito, from whence a small torrent descends, denominated Aguaboa, (Good Water;) Camara, Pattu, with a hermitage of the Lady of Impossibilities, and in its skirts another of the Lady of Griefs; Luiz Gomez, covered with large woods, and where the best necessaries of life and cotton are raised; that of Cabello-naotem, so called in consequence of being entirely bare, having gold; Regente, now called Portalegre, since a town of that name was founded upon it; Campo Grande in the vicinity of the preceding, and whose inhabitants belong to the parish of Pau dos Ferros, two miles distant; Martins, which has ten miles of length, and a hermitage on the summit, near a lake, that overflows its margins with the thunder showers. It is affirmed, that at the end of the last[407] century there was already upon the serra four thousand persons belonging to the communion. Serra Borborema is in the eastern part of the province.

Zoology.—Cattle are bred, and some mules; also sheep and goats. Hogs are not so numerous as in the adjacent provinces. In the woods the same quadrupeds are met with as in the surrounding districts. The emu ostrich, seriema, guiraponga, tucano, zabele, torquaze-pigeon, and parrot, are well known; also the beija-flor, or humming bird, sabia, cardal, canary, cabore, carrica, and papeyro. On the margins of the rivers and lakes are the heron, jaburu, colhereira, galleiroe, socco, and various sorts of the macarico. The jucurutu and the macauhan are destroyers of snakes.

Phytology.—The cocoa-nut tree is abundant in many situations near the beach. In the interior there are many species of the palm. In the woods are divers trees of excellent timber, and some resinous. The cedar is not unknown in all the districts. Amongst fruits are the cajue, jabuticaba, ambuzo, aracaza, and occasionally groves, almost entirely of the mangaba tree, are met with; there is also the cupahyba tree, and a variety of other vegetation used in pharmacy. Lights are universally made from the oil of mamona and bees-wax.

Rivers and Lakes.—Rio Grande, originally Pottengy, comes from the centre of the province, increasing with the waters of various others, generally inconsiderable, and discharges itself fifteen miles to the south of Cape St. Roque. The margins are in great part covered with handsome mangroves as far as the tide advances. Large barks proceed up for the space of near forty miles, from thence upwards only canoes.

The Appody has one hundred and thirty miles of course, formerly denominated Upanema, a name which at present is appropriated to another smaller river that unites it, on the right, ten miles above its mouth. It runs almost wholly through a flat country, where there are various lakes, which by degrees restore to it the waters introduced into them by its floods.

The waters of those lakes, amongst which are the Apanhapeixe, (Catch Fish,) about four miles in circuit; Pacco, a little less, and Varges, six miles long and narrow, totally disappear in years of drought. Large canoes advance up this river to the arraial of St. Luzia, situated upon the left margin, twenty miles from the sea. From this situation downwards the famous salterns of Mossoro are met with, the salt of which is as white as snow; they have tended to the increase of population, as well as occasioned the river to be visited by a great number of small craft, which convey it to different parts.

The Aguamare runs northward, like the preceding, and is discharged twenty[408] miles to the west of Point Tres Irmaos by two mouths, formed by a small island that produces salt; large canoes proceed up it some leagues. Its entrance is pointed out by two mountains, called Cambujys, of unequal elevation, both in the form of a sugar-loaf, and seven miles distant from the sea.

The Gunepabu, also called Siara Mirim, after having irrigated an extensive country, with many small aldeias, is discharged three miles north of the Rio Grande, with considerable width and two fathoms in depth.

The river Cunhahu, otherwise Crumatahy, which enters the ocean five miles south of Point Pipa, waters the establishments of many fazendeiros, gathers various small rivers, and affords navigation to canoes for some leagues.

The Tareyry, which is the outlet of Lake Groahyras, discharges itself twenty miles south of the Rio Grande. This lake, ten miles long, communicates with two smaller ones, is well stored with fish, and at a certain point is only one mile from the sea. The Guajehy empties itself four miles to the north of the bay of Marcos.

The Piranhas (spoken of in the province of Parahiba) is here the most considerable river, and its largest floods are in March and April. It is discharged by five mouths, the principal of which are the eastern, called Amargozo, the Conchas the western, and the Cavallos the central, being the most voluminous, and twenty miles to the west of the Aguamare; large barks proceed up to Villa Nova da Princeza. Upon its margins are the abundant salterns of Assu, the primitive name of the river. A great portion of the salt is consumed for salting fish, the main part of which is sent to Pernambuco.

The Serido, which has one hundred miles of course, and the largest confluent of the Piranhas in this province, enters on the right eighty miles above its embouchure. An imaginary line drawn north and south from the point of Tres Irmaos divides this province into two parts, a little unequal.

In the western part:—Villa Nova da Princesa, Portalegre, and Villa Nova do Principe.

Natal, which has been sometimes called Cidade dos Reys, (City of the Kings,) with a church dedicated to the Lady of Apresentaçao, and the capital, does not surpass any of the largest towns of the province: it consists of a square; the[409] streets are of deep sand; and it is dignified with the title of a city, which it received at its foundation by the Philips. It has, as usual, various places of worship, a palace for the governors, a town-house, and a prison. It is advantageously situated upon the right margin of the Rio Grande, near two miles above its mouth, which is defended by the fort of Reys Majos, seated upon the southern point, and becoming an island with the high tides. The Dutch possessed themselves of this city in 1633, and gave it an ostrich for arms, in allusion to the multiplicity of those birds with which the province at that time abounded. In its environs cotton, Indian corn, feijao, and mandioca are cultivated, with some rice and sugar.

Arez, originally Groahyras, is a small town, with a church dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and about thirty-five miles south of the capital, near a lake of its primitive name, and twenty miles distant from the sea. The inhabitants are almost all fishermen and respire a salubrious air. The channel which the Dutch projected opening from this lake to the beach of Tibau, only distant two miles, and which would save a navigation of fifteen or eighteen miles by the Tareyry, is yet unexecuted. In the district of Arez is the povoaçao of Goyaninha, (Little Goyanna,) larger than the town, from which it is distant ten miles. It is inhabited by whites, and has a church of Nossa Senhora of Prazeres.

Villaflor, at first called Grammacio, is an indifferent town, inhabited by agricultural Indians and whites, with a church of the Lady of Desterro. It is forty miles to the south of the capital and three from the sea, near the river Cunhau, which supplies it with water.

Estremoz, formerly Guajiru, is a town of the same class as the preceding, well situated near a lake ten miles long and two wide. It is ten miles from the sea and as far north-west of the capital, with a mother church, having for patrons St. Michael and the Lady of Pleasures. The inhabitants are composed of whites, Indians, and mesticos. In the district of Estremoz, upon the northern coast, near the mouth of a small river, is the flourishing povoaçao of Toiros, occupied by whites, and ornamented with a chapel of Lord Jesus of the Navigators. From its port, where small vessels arrive, cotton is exported.

Villa Nova da Princeza, primarily Assu, is well situated on the left bank of the river Parinhas, twenty-five miles above its mouth, and is the most considerable and trading town of the western part; hyates frequent its port. Besides a church dedicated to St. John the Baptist there is a hermitage of the Lady of Rozario. The inhabitants breed cattle, and cultivate the same productions as[410] are raised in the vicinity of the capital. The salt-pits employ many people, and their proceeds form a considerable branch of commerce. Villa Nova do Principe, formerly Cayco, is a middling town, and well situated upon the river Serido, twenty-five miles above its mouth. St. Anna is patroness of the church, and the inhabitants of various complexions drink the water of the river, upon the margins of which feijao, hortulans, Indian corn, and tobacco are cultivated. In its district there are the hermitages of St. Anna do Pe da Serra, of St. Anna do Campo Grande, and of St. Luzia, which are expected to become parishes with the increase of population.

Portalegre is a considerable town, situated upon the serra of its name, near seventy miles from the sea and eight to the west of the Appody. St. Joam Baptista is the nominal patron of its church, and its inhabitants, composed of Europeans, whites of the country, and Indians, respire fresh and salubrious air, and derive excellent water from two perennial founts. The Indians, whose numbers are much inferior to the whites, are descendants principally of three colonies, which their conquerors established here, namely the Payacus, who possessed the margins of the Appody, the Icos, who were masters of those of the river Peixe, and the Pannaties, who inhabited the serra of their name. Cotton and mandioca are its exports.

The eastern limits of the district of this town are common with those of the parish of St. John the Baptist of Appody. In its vicinity, near a stream, below a tree, there is a small spring of tepid water, called Agua do Milho, It is necessary to draw it out with a small vessel into a larger one, when any person wishes to bathe.

The town of St. Joze, which took the Lady of O. for its patroness, is in a state of mediocrity, agreeably and well situated. Mipibu was its first name, and it is nearly thirty miles south of the capital, fifteen from the ocean, and three from the lake Groahyras. The inhabitants are agricultural Indians and whites.

About four miles from it is the small povoaçao of Papary, near the lake of Groahyras, with a chapel of Our Lady of O. and inhabited by whites, who are employed in fishing.

About two hundred and fifty miles to the east-north-east of Cape St. Roque is the island of Fernando de Noronha, discovered by a Portuguese of that name, being ten miles long, of proportionate width, generally mountainous and stony, with so few and such small portions of land susceptible of cultivation, that it could not maintain a diminutive colony. In order to impede a contraband[411] trade with foreign nations, a detachment is maintained here, supplied and annually exchanged from Pernambuco. Some criminals are sent here to pass the period of their degradation, who cultivate a small portion of mandioca, with some fruits from the continent, and breed some cattle, sheep, and goats. The rigid prohibition by the government of the entrance, till recently, of any female to this island with the colony, is a circumstance highly discreditable to their policy. A brother-in-law of General Rego returned from the government of this island when I was at Pernambuco, and from him I understood that females were now admitted into the colony. Rats are here exceedingly numerous, also the rolla bird. There are a great number of wild mountain cats, descended from those which had fled from the houses; they carry on a continued warfare against the rolla. It has good water, and eight or ten small forts, destined to defend those places where a disembarkation might be effected. In the year 1738 King John V. ordered these fortifications to be constructed, after the expulsion of the pirates who had established themselves here. Ships falling short of water occasionally visit this place for a supply.

To the north, and separated from it by a narrow channel, is the island of Ratos, (Rats,) three miles long, less stony, and more woody than the other, and where the degradados have formed plantations of the cotton tree. It is remarked that the animals from which this island derives its name did not exist here some few years ago. In the channel there is a hollow stone, where the sea bursts forth with a loud noise.

It is not recorded whether the territory of this province had any other donatories besides the unfortunate Joam de Barros and Luis de Mello, nor is the precise epoch known of the foundation of the prezidios, or garrisons, from which commenced the colonization that existed upon the coast in 1603, when Captain Pedro Coelho de Souza, arrived there by orders of the governor of the state, with eighty Portuguese and eight hundred Indians, in various caravels, for the purpose of destroying the alliance Mons. Bombille, a Frenchman, had formed with the celebrated Mel Redondo, principal chief of the Serra Hibiapaba, from which considerable injury resulted to the prezidios. He received some people from them to enable him the better to execute the project, which he accomplished by subjecting this Indian to the Portuguese crown. On his return, Pedro Coelho entered the river Jaguaribe, merely with the intention of making some observations; but discovering a great number of advantages which it presented, he determined to commence a city there with his party: and having ordered his family to join him from Parahiba, he continued occupied in the foundation of the colony with the name of Nova Lisboa, (New Lisbon;) but shortly afterwards he was obliged by the Indians to desist from the undertaking, and returned to Parahiba.

Duarthe d’Albuquerque Coelho, writer of the war of Pernambuco, where he was donatory, affirms from ocular testimony, that Martim Soares Moreno, who belonged to the principal prezidio of Siara, came in the year 1631, to succour him against the Dutch, with an auxiliary force of Indians, in whose language he was well versed, and was named the first governor of that prezidio by the King: it being also certain that he commanded it in 1613, when, leaving in his place Estevam de Campos, he accompanied Jeronymo d’Albuquerque in the first attempt against the French who were established in the island of Maranham;[413] but it does not appear whether he was the commandant or not at the period when Capt. Pedro Coelho arrived there. The district, however, was colonized very slowly, in consequence of the deficiency of good ports, and those advantages calculated to attract a numerous colony.

This province, which took the name of one of its small rivers, in consequence of the first establishment being founded near its embouchure, is confined on the north by the ocean, on the south by the cordillera of Ararippe or Cayriris, which divides it from that of Pernambuco, on the east by the provinces of Rio Grande and Parahiba, and on the west by that of Piauhy, from which it is separated by the Hibiapaba serra. It is computed to be about three hundred miles at its greatest length and width.

The whole was principally in the power of the numerous nation of Potiguaras, (although there were the Guanacas and Jaguaruannas,) divided into various hordes. The main part of them were Christianized by the exertions of the Jesuits, for which purpose they had an hospicio in Aquiraz, whose ruins are now called Collegio. The first catechists of this people were two Capuchin missionaries left here by Frey Christovam, from Lisbon, the first friar of Para, at the entreaties of Martim Soares Moreno.

The face of the country is almost generally uneven, without any deep valleys, and with few mountains of considerable elevation, if we except the branches of the Great Cordillera, with which it is in great part surrounded. The territory principally consists of a sandy, arid, and sterile soil, partially wooded. Upon the serras alone are to be discovered extensive woods, the soil being substantial and fertile, and there the best plantations of produce are formed, the remainder of the country serving as pasturage for large quantities of cattle bred there.

The winters are irregular, and commonly dry, some years passing without any rain, the consequences of which are many fatalities. This scourge upon the country is said to be repeated about every ten years, with some exceptions. The heat is intense in the flat parts of the central districts. In 1792, a drought commenced, which lasted four years, during which time all domestic animals perished, and many people. Honey was for a long time the only aliment, which produced various epidemics, and swept off many thousand persons throughout the province. Seven parishes were completely deserted, without there remaining a single soul.

In 1632, two Dutch vessels of war arrived upon the coast with the intention of making an easy conquest of it, through the medium of an intrigue with the Indians; and, for the accomplishment of this project, four Indians were[414] ordered to penetrate into the interior, who, with many others, had been taken in the bay of Trahicao, and sent to Amsterdam, where they learned the Batavian language. Two of them being discovered, through the activity of Domingos da Veyga, commandant of the presidio, were immediately executed as an example to the others; and the Dutch, despairing, in consequence, of succeeding in their undertaking, set sail again for Pernambuco.

Five years afterwards, the Indians of this country, hearing of the great successes of the Dutch, on the arrival of Count Nassau at Pernambuco, deputed two messengers to offer submission and obedience to them in case they wished to make themselves masters of the presidio, the commandant of which had concluded his days, and the soldiery were in a sufficiently diminutive state. Four vessels were immediately despatched, with two hundred soldiers, and the Dutch, without difficulty, possessed themselves of this province in the year 1637, which they retained without any considerable advantage for some years, and, on giving it up, did not leave, as in some other places, any public works of utility. The Indians, who spontaneously united with them, undoubtedly expected to have met with that in the new conquerors which they could not find in the first; but it does not appear that they were quite so satisfied, as they retired to the southern lands in the vicinity of the cordillera. The missionaries of the Protestant religion, it would appear, did not please them so well as the spells, rosaries, ceremonies, and parade, accompanied with music, all so imposing on the imagination, and with which the Jesuits allured them from the savage life.

Mountains.—The serra of Jaguaribe, with many spiral heads, is to the east of the river of that name. The serra of Guammame, which commences near the Jaguaribe, ranges for thirty miles to the west, at a distance of about eighteen from the coast; that of Siara, with four heads, is between the river of its name on the east, and the Cahohyppe on the west. The serra of Mandahu is between the river of the same name on the west, and the bay of Curu on the east; that of Caracu, having the river of that name on the west, and the Aracaty-mirim on the east.

The serra Borytamma is behind the morro of Jericoacoara, situated at the bottom of the bay of this name. The whole serve for land-marks to the navigators coasting along these shores.

There is also the serra Uruburetama, running north and south between the rivers Curu and Acaracu; that of Botarite, in the centre of the province; and that of Merooca, seventy miles distant from the sea.

The serra of Hibiapaba, far from being a single cordon, is formed of various mountains, which succeed each other, and is in parts bare and stony; but the main portion is covered with forests of superb timber, nourished by a soil of much substantiality and fecundity. The Tabbajara Indians possess the greatest part of it.

Mineralogy.—Gold in small quantity; minerals of silver and iron, more or less; crystals, chrysolites, pumice stone, amethysts, magnet, calcareous stone, granite, saltpetre, white lead, potters’ earth, and stones of St. Anna, which are applied to females at child-birth.

Zoology.—There are the ferret, hedge-hog, here called quandu, as at Pernambuco, praguica, or sloth, ounce, deer, coelho, guaxinin, quaty, pacca, the wild boar, capivara, otter, and all other wild quadrupeds, peculiar to the neighbouring provinces. The guariba monkeys assemble in large bands upon the thickest trees of the woods, and make a babbling noise like the loud grating of the Brazilian waggon. Among other species of birds are common the emu ostrich, seriema, jaburu, colhereira, tucano, mutun, jacu, torquaze pigeon, guiraponga, nhambu, zabele, parrot, urubu, sabia. In the lakes there are a diversity of ducks, geese, galeiro, a diving bird; and near their margins, the saracura, macarico, and socco. Bats are very numerous, particularly in years of great drought, and more fatal to the cattle than the wild beasts collectively, actually reducing rich farmers to indigence, extensive plains covered with many thousand head of cattle becoming totally deserted. This animal, worse than a pestilence, destroys most in the fazendas that have rocks, in whose caverns they breed, where they cluster together during the day in large piles, and where also they are better killed, either with fire or with the gun. Goats and sheep are sufficiently numerous, though not so much so as they were previously to the fatal drought alluded to; the latter resist the rainy seasons the best, and are more prolific, generally having two at a birth, many three, few one, and some four: goats commonly have two also, many one, but rarely afford three at a birth. In the vicinity of the river Jaguaribe, the most numerous flocks of both species are met with. Neither the flesh nor milk of those animals are held in much repute, and, what is equally singular, the people are imperfectly acquainted with the art of rendering their skins a branch of commerce.

Phytology.—There are a diversity of trees which afford excellent timber for building, others for cabinet work, and dyes; also those which produce benzoin, gum copal and gum mastick; likewise various species of the palm, of which the carnahuba is the most common and useful tree in the country; of it houses are[416] formed without any other ingredient than clay, the trunk serving for the substantial part, and the leaves in the shape of a fan for the covering; the latter are also used for mats, hand-baskets, hats, and little panniers. They afford, besides, sustenance for cattle at the period of great droughts, for, whilst new, the pith of the trunk is soft, and given to animals in default of other aliment: a sort of farinha, or flour, is also made from it, which is a resource in times of famine. In the centre of the foliage there is a glutinous pod, which, when applied to the fire, acquires the consistency of wax, of which it has the smell. Its fruit, which is a bunch of a black colour, supplies sustenance to all living creatures; and beautiful walking canes are made of its timber, which become speckled on being polished.

The oiticica is the largest, and has the most abundant foliage of any tree of the certam. Its cool shade is grateful to man, as well as all animals of the country, but only grows where its roots can find water. In the woods the jabuticaba is common, and in the catingas the ambuzo.

The culture of cotton is in the progress of augmentation, and its produce is the principal branch of commerce, and introduces into the country the greatest part of foreign commodities, which the necessities of life or luxury may require. The cane prospers in many districts, but its juice is almost all distilled into spirit, or reduced into what are termed rapaduras, which are portions of muscovado sugar, in the form of a brick, which it receives after being put into wooden moulds. The produce of coffee, which with industry might become prodigious, is yet insignificant. The same may be said of the cocoa shrub. Indian corn is the only grain which prospers in the country.

The atta, which is the pine of the southern provinces, is here abundant, and the best of all in the Brazil, and perhaps in America. Melons, and water-melons are excellent in many situations, also the pine-apple. Orange trees are almost useless in some places, and the banana, or plantain, is rare in consequence of the occasional deficiency of rain. The mangaba and araca are common in all the districts, as well as the cajue-nut and the tobacco plant. Cattle, hides, cotton, and salt, are almost the only articles of exportation.

Formerly a considerable quantity of amber was collected, which the high tides deposited upon the beach. The bees produce a great abundance of honey in the cavities of trees. Quinaquina, or Jesuits’ bark, is rarely seen.

Rivers and Lakes.—Of the great number of rivers in this province the only large one is the Jaguaribe, which, in the idiom of the Indians, means the “river of ounces.” It has its origin in the serra of Boavista, which is a portion of the[417] Cayriris, in the district of Inhamu, and runs, like all the others, to the north, passes the towns of St. Joam do Principe, St. Bernardo, and Aricaty, and discharges itself into the ocean fifty miles west of the Appody. Its course through the cattle plains is handsome and interesting; the tide runs thirty miles, and gives it a majestic appearance. It has a diversity of fish, a considerable part of which enter with the inundations into the adjacent lakes, where they are greatly diminished by the jaburu and other ichthyophagous birds. Its principal tributaries are the river Salgado, which flows from the same cordillera, breaks through a mountain which it encounters, passes by the parishes of Lavras and Icco, and enters its superior by the right margin, having traversed the district of Mangabeira, where there is gold, the extraction of which was forbidden. The Banabuyhu, little inferior to the preceding, comes from the vicinity of the before-mentioned cordillera, joining its waters to the Jaguaribe a few leagues below the last confluence, having received, amongst other smaller streams, the Quixeramuby.

The river Caracu has its heads in the centre of the province, waters the town of Sobral, and is discharged by two mouths near forty miles to the east of the bay of Jericoacoara. The tide runs up some leagues, rendering it navigable for a considerable space.

The river Camucim, which in the interior of the country flows under the name of Croaihu, and which has one hundred miles of course, originates in the serra of Hibiapaba, refreshes the town of Granja, and empties itself twenty-five miles to the east of the last-mentioned bay. It is navigable for a considerable distance, and has at its embouchure a commodious anchorage for sumacas, which export from thence a large quantity of cotton, principally to Maranham.

The river Aricaty is extensive, and enters the sea by two unequal mouths, denominated Aricaty-Assu and Aricaty-Mirim; the first is the eastern. The intervening island is four miles in diameter and about twenty-five east of the Caracu.

The Cahohyppe, which flows into the ocean, fifteen miles to the west of the capital; the Cioppe, eighteen miles more to the west; the Curu, which discharges itself twenty miles further in the same direction; and the Mandahu, nearly fifty miles more, and eighteen to the east of Aricaty-Assu, are the only others worthy of notice.

In all the rivers of this province there is a species of fish resembling a skate, with a spur upon the tail, the painful sting of which, when it does not produce[418] death, leaves the patient with a terrible wound: the only remedy known is burning with a hot iron or caustic, when the artery is not affected. The Author of Nature has beneficently ordained that they confine themselves to the bottom of dead water, and do no harm to those who bathe in running streams.

The lake of Velho is to the right of the Jaguaribe, with which it communicates by two channels in the parish of St. Joam, many leagues distant from the town of Aricaty. The lake of Jaguaracu lies between the rivers Cioppe and Siara, thirty-five miles from the sea, and the lake Camurupim, a short way from the eastern margin of the river Camucim, are the most considerable. Other periodical lakes are to be remarked, of little depth and considerable diameter, which only exist whilst it rains, and whose waters, on the return of heat and dry winds, crystallize into a white and excellent salt.

Islands, Capes, and Ports.—On the extensive coast of this province there are no promontories or remarkable capes, no ports for the reception of large vessels, nor islands, except in the embouchures or beds of the rivers. The shore in some parts is steep, in others flat and sandy, covered with mangroves, and having in some situations fine cocoa-nut trees.

The bay of Titoya, with seven miles of mouth and two of depth, is surrounded by handsome mangroves, full of divers species of crab-fish, and is situated between the mouth of the Camucim and the limit of the province. The bay of Jericoacoara, considerable, and pointed out by the morro of the same name, and the bay of Iguape, surrounded by high barriers, contracted into a point by a mount on the eastern side, are the only openings in the land meriting that denomination.

A line drawn north and south, from the river Curu to the southern limit, divides this province into two parts almost equal.

Nossa Senhora d’Assumpçao, otherwise Villa do Forte, so named in consequence of a fort which defended it, but more commonly called Siara, is a very[419] middling town, and the residence of the governor; the chapel, dedicated to the Assumption of Our Lady, was the origin of its present name. It is the capital of the province, and has a church of St. Joze de Ribamar. It is situated near the beach, is surrounded with a sandy soil, and about seven miles to the north-west of the embouchure of the river Siara, where it was first commenced at the place now called Villavelha. It is the most ancient town in the province, and the reputed city of Siara of Vosgien, possessing however no advantages that would warrant the expectation of any great improvement of its present condition. The pine, or atta, is here very large, and its fruit delicious. In 1808 it received a Juiz de Fora, who is judge of all civil and criminal causes, also auditor of war, judge of the custom-house, attorney-general, and deputy of the junta of the treasury, which does not differ in its jurisdiction from any of the others. The governor of this province touched at Pernambuco during my stay there; the term of his government had expired, and he was on his way to Rio de Janeiro. This province cannot boast of any foreign commerce; the principal part of its produce has hitherto been sent by coasting vessels principally to Maranham; and in like manner its internal demands have been supplied. A respectable house of London have it in contemplation to form an establishment here: this house has had for many years establishments at Rio de Janeiro, Bahia, and Pernambuco.

To the west of this town is the parish of Conceiçao d’Almofalla, whose parishioners are whites, with some Tramembe Indians; the whole cultivating mandioca, legumes, and rice. In its district there are salt-pits.

To the south of the preceding is the parish of Conceiçao d’Amontada, the population of which, for the main part whites, cultivate the same productions, and breed cattle.

Aricaty, the largest, most populous, commercial, and flourishing town and frequented port of the province, was created by John V. in 1723, and is situated on the eastern margin, eight miles above the mouth of the Jaguaribe, the large floods of which river incommode a portion of its inhabitants. It has a church dedicated to the Lady of Rozario, and four hermitages, with the titles of Lord Jesus of Bom Fim, of Navigators, of the Lady of Livramento, and of St. Gonçalo; a professor of Latin; good streets; and many houses of one story, with a great portion of them built of brick. Cotton and hides are its principal exportations.

Icco stands along the right margin of the river Salgado, a few leagues above its mouth, one hundred miles north of Cratto, and near one hundred and eighty[420] south of Aricaty, is a considerable town, with a church dedicated to the Lady of Expectaçao, a hermitage of Rozario, another of the Lord Bom Fim, and a royal master of Latin. Its edifices are chiefly of wood, and its inhabitants are much incommoded by the heat, reflected from a morro, or rock, near it, and from whence a vast extent of the environs are viewed, abounding with cattle. The river is well stored with fish, and is subject to floods, which inundate a considerable space of territory, that produces rice, Indian corn, feijao, water-melons, and excellent melons; but neither the plantain, nor any fruit trees prosper in its vicinity. Farinha and sugar are brought here from Cratto, and salt from Assu.

Lavras da Mangabeira, a parish created in 1813, is thirty-five miles above Icco, of which it is a dismembered portion, and is upon the margin of the Salgado. Its church is dedicated to St. Vincente Ferreyra, and its inhabitants raise various necessaries of life, cotton, and cattle.

Cratto, a town in a state of mediocrity, situated in a plain near a small stream, that takes its name, being one of the heads of the Salgado, has a church of the Lady of Penha, and is the most abundant town of the province. Every fruit tree of the South American continent prospers in its fertile district, and it has the advantage of running streams to irrigate the plantations, not excepting those of mandioca, when the rains fail, and to which may be attributed the superabundance of the necessaries of life it always enjoys. The neighbouring districts have recourse to them when they experience years of drought, and the consequent deficiency of vegetation. Limes, citrons, bananas, and cabbages, are of an uncommon size. Diseases of the eyes and legs are here endemical. Thunder showers commence in its vast district, which is a portion of the Cayriris Novas, in October, and last till May. In certain months cold nights are experienced.

Thirty miles to the east-south-east is the parish of St. Joze, yet known by the name of Missao Velha, (Old Mission.) Its numerous parishioners, generally whites, cultivate mandioca, Indian corn, and the sugar cane.

Bom Jardim was created a town by a law of the 30th of August, 1814, and is a dismemberment of Missao Velha, made two years previously, which was then the most populous parish of the province. It is fifty miles distant from Cratto, and has a church of Bom Jesus. Sugar and cattle form the riches of the inhabitants.

The town of St. Bernardo, yet small, is situated near a small river, which two miles lower joins the Jaguaribe on the western margin, thirty-five miles[421] above Aricaty, and one hundred and forty miles below Icco. Its church is dedicated to the Lady of Rozario, and cattle and cotton constitute the means of subsistence for the inhabitants.

St. Joam do Principe, originally Thauha, is a small town near the Jaguaribe, a few leagues below its source, in a fine and fertile district, enjoying salubrious air. The inhabitants are breeders of cattle, and produce cotton and the necessaries of life. In its environs there is an abundant mine of pumice stone.

Sobral, formerly Caracu, situated in a plain upon the margin of the river from which it derived its primitive name, is the second town in the province in point of size, commerce, and population. It is seventy miles distant from the sea, and ten from the serra of Merooca. Besides a parish church, dedicated to the Lady of Conceiçao, it has a chapel of Rozario; and within its district the chapels of St. Joze, St. Cruz, St. Anna, St. Quiteria, Rozario, upon the small stream of Guimareas, and Conceiçao, upon the serra of Merooca, where cultivation partially appears.

Granja stands in a plain upon the left bank of the Camucim, twenty miles from the sea. It is a middling and flourishing town, promising from its advantageous situation future augmentation. St. Joze is the nominal patron of its church. In its district there are the hermitages of St. Antonio do Olho d’Agua, St. Antonio d’Hyboassu, and Livramento. From its port, which is frequented, cotton and hides are exported.

Villa Viçosa is a large town, and well situated upon the serra of Hibiapaba, on land selected by the Jesuits for the establishment of a colony of Indians, the descendants of whom constitute at this time the principal portion of its numerous population. It is near a lake, and forty miles to the south-south-west of Granja; the houses are of wood or bricks. The church, dedicated to the Lady of Assumpçao, is the ci-devant Jesuitical hospicio, and the residence at present of the vicars, who are administrators of a fazenda for breeding cattle, in the situation of Thyaya, established as a patrimony for the said church. The nights of summer are cooler here than those of winter. Amongst other springs of good water is to be remarked that which is denominated Agua do Inferno, (Infernal Water,) in consequence of being in a craggy and rugged place, the water of which is particularly excellent. The great fertility within its vast circumference, covered with handsome woods, where plantations of cotton and the various necessaries of life prosper, united with the salubrity of the air which refreshes it, attracts here numerous Europeans, who give a[422] stimulus to its agriculture. The Indians of the town, with those who are distributed through its district, form eighteen companies of militia.

At a distance of about thirty miles is the parish of St. Pedro de Bayapinna, upon the same serra. Its inhabitants are whites and Indians, whose productions are the same as the preceding.

Villa Nova d’el Rey, (New Town of the King,) formerly Campo Grande, is situated upon the serra Cocos, which is a portion of the Hibiapaba, and near the origin of the small river Macambyra, and was founded for the habitation of a horde of Christianized Indians, of which there are few remaining. In consequence of the fertility of the country, the excellence of the waters, and the salubrity of the air, many whites are attracted here. It is seventy miles to the south-east of Villa Viçosa, has a church of the Lady of Prazeres, with environs rich in plantations of mandioca, the cane, and cotton. About twenty-five miles from it is the church of St. Gonçalo, whose parishioners live dispersed upon the same serra, and cultivate the same productions.

Campo Maior de Quixeramoby is a considerable and abundant town, with a handsome church of St. Antonio, and situated one hundred and thirty miles to the south of Aricaty, on the margin of the river which affords its name, with large numbers of cattle in its vicinity, constituting the principal property of the inhabitants.

Aquiraz, which is about four miles distant from the sea, and eighteen from the capital to the south-east, upon the eastern margin of the Pacoty, and a mile from the lake which affords it the name, is a middling town with some commerce, and a church dedicated to St. Joze.

Montemor o Novo is situated upon the serra of Botarite, having a church of the Lady of Palma, and is about one hundred and thirty miles to the south of the capital. The inhabitants respire a salubrious air, have the advantage of good water, and form plantations of the mandioca and the cane. A few leagues north of the preceding is the parish of the Lady of Conceiçao of Montemor o Velho, the inhabitants of which are whites and Indians, which latter are diminishing, as in other places, with the augmentation of the first.

Mecejanna is ten miles to the south-east of the capital, near a lake, having a church of the Lady of Conceiçao.

Soure, situated near the eastern margin of the river Siara, fifteen miles from the sea, and the same distance from the capital, has a church dedicated to May de Deos.

Arronches, which has for titular patroness the Lady of Humildes, is distant seven miles from the capital, towards the south.

The three last are Indian towns, with some whites and mesticos, who cultivate mandioca, cotton, rice, legumes, &c. The whole were founded in places selected for the establishments of Christianized Indians. They are all small but capable of becoming considerable, if their inhabitants were possessed of more activity and intelligence.

In the vicinity of the sources of the river Jaguaribe, are the parishes of St. Mattheus, in the district of Inhamuz; of the Lady of Paz, in the district of Arneyros, formerly a Christianized Indian town. Cattle and the necessaries of life are their principal productions.

This province derives its name from one of the rivers which water it, and was created in the year 1718, being till that period a comarca of Maranham, but did not begin to have governors before 1758. It is computed to comprise four hundred miles from north to south, and one hundred and seventy of medium width. Its form is almost triangular, having more than three hundred and forty miles on the southern side, where it is confined by the province of Pernambuco, and about sixty on the northern side, where it is washed by the ocean. On the east it is bounded by the province of Siara, from which it is separated by the serra of Hibiapaba, on the west by the river Parnahiba, which divides it from Maranham. The country is almost generally low and flat, interspersed with small hills and extensive plains, principally sandy, in great part destitute of trees, and also in places of shrubs. It exhibits herbage during the period of rains, or whilst the soil preserves any humidity, but it is soon shrivelled up on the return of the sun’s parching rays. This province has various streams all tributary to the important river Parnahiba. The winter commences in October, and lasts till April, accompanied with thunder and rain. The wind prevails at the beginning from the north, and afterwards passes round to the south. The climate is hot, and fevers reign in some districts. In the northern part, the days and nights are equal all the year, and in the southern districts of the province there is only a difference of half an hour. This territory was possessed by various nations, generally not numerous, whose reduction or repulsion did not consume much time or expenditure of lives, differing in this respect from many other provinces of much less extent, and arising from the concurring circumstances of the great deficiency of woods and serras, which in almost all the other districts served the savages for retreat and refuge. Those who afforded the greatest difficulty in subduing them, were a tribe living in the[425] vicinity of the river Poty, commanded by a domestic Indian, who had fled from an aldeia of Pernambuco, and who animated them to a desperate resistance, until he perished in swimming across the Parnahiba. Mandu Ladino was the common name by which this chieftain was designated.

More than fifty years had elapsed without any intelligence of the existence of wild Indians within the precincts of the province, when, about the year 1760, on its southern side, a band appeared, who from that period have annoyed the colonists very much, and have compelled them to abandon a great number of fazendas for breeding cattle. The whites give this tribe the appellation of Pimenteiras, in consequence of there being a situation so denominated in the district which they occupy. They have their dwelling places between the heads of the rivers Piauhy and Gurguea, near the boundary of the province, being surrounded by the establishments of the Portuguese. Within their territory there is a large lake abounding with fish, near which they take up their residence for a considerable period of the year. It is conjectured that they were, or at least in part, descendants of various families who lived domesticated with the whites in the vicinity of Quebrobo, and from whom they deserted about the year 1685, in order to avoid marching under the banners of the forces equipped against their Indian brethren. Their hostilities commenced in consequence of a dog being killed in the vicinity of Gurguea, whither they had proceeded upon an occasion of hunting. In a frustrated assault which they made, eighty bows were found, from which it was inferred they had a considerably greater number of men capable of using that weapon. Domingos Jorge, a Paulista, and Domingos Affonso, from Maffra, in Portugal, were the first persons who began the conquest of this province. Towards the year 1674, the latter possessed a fazenda for breeding cattle on the northern side of the river St. Francisco. The great injury which he there sustained from the central Indians, and the desire of augmenting his fortune with similar possessions, urged him to undertake the conquest of the northern country, for which object he assembled all the people he could accumulate, and having passed the serra of Dois Irmaos, (Two Brothers,) towards the north, he, fortunately for himself, encountered the Paulista before mentioned, who was in the progress of reducing Indians to captivity, and they afforded mutual succour to each other. Having ultimately captured a considerable number, and caused the remainder to retire, the Paulista returned to his country with the greater part of the captive Indians, and the European remained master of the territory. Other companies made similar entries into this district, the said Affonso always remaining supreme captain of the whole,[426] and the vast possessions thus acquired by the entrance of various parties, received the denomination of Certam. It is said that he established above fifty fazendas for the breeding of large cattle, and that he gave away and sold many during his life. It is however certain, that at his death, he left thirty, and appointed the Jesuits of the College of Bahia administrators of them, ordering the revenues of eleven to be appropriated for dowries to young virgins, to the clothing of widows, and to succour other necessities of the poor. With the rest they were to augment the number of fazendas, but it is said that they only established three more. With the extinction of this sect, the whole passed under the administration of the crown, and are preserved in the same state by the inspection of three administrators, each having eleven fazendas in his jurisdiction, with three hundred milreas of salary. They occupy the territory through which the rivers Piauhy and Caninde flow, from the boundary of the province to the north of the capital, in the vicinity of which there are some principal ones. The privilege of forming establishments within their lands is not granted to any one, where the slaves of the fazendas work alone for their subsistence and clothing. The cattle arriving at a certain age are conducted by the purchasers principally to Bahia and its reconcave. Those of the northern district descend to Maranham, others are driven to Pernambuco.

Mountains.—This province has no serras of any consequence, if we except the cordillera which limits it on the east, and that from whence emanate the divers branches of the Parnahiba. In the interior alone there are trifling hills, and some small morros, which even in the country have not acquired any names.

The serra denominated Dois Irmaos consists of two small mounts in the southern confines, between which the road passes from the capital to the river St. Francisco.

Mineralogy.—Gold, iron, lead, copperas, pumice stone, saltpetre, mineral salt, magnete, talc, grindstone, red lead, parget, potters’ earth, and abundance of calcareous stone.

Rivers.—The river Parnahiba is formed of three currents of the same name, the origins of which are in the skirts or proximity of the serra which limits the province on the south-west. Its first tributary is the river Balsas, the only one which joins it by the left margin. A short distance below this confluence, the river Urussuhy enters it on the right, and comes from the same serra. Eighty miles lower, the Gurguea is incorporated with it; one hundred miles further it receives the Caninde, and twenty more, the Poty. After one hundred and[427] thirty miles, the mouth of the river Longa is met with, a little lower than which a small arm issues from the Parnahiba to the east, which traverses a large lake called Encantada, and forms an island of about five miles in length, of proportionate width, flat, and in the form of half a circle. Twenty miles further, this river divides itself into two rather unequal currents, and ultimately enters the ocean by six mouths, formed by five islands of various sizes, which are never submerged, and some of them afford pasture for cattle. The eastern branch and the most considerable is denominated Hyguarassu, the next Barravelha, that which follows is called Barra do Meio; the fourth, Barra do Caju; the fifth, Barra das Cannarias, the most western Tutoya, by which the small river of the same name is discharged. Thirty miles is reckoned between the two extreme embouchures. This river, by which barks of considerable burden proceed up to the confluence of the Balsas, affords navigation very nearly to its origin to canoes, which use the sail for eight days, the remainder always the oar and the vara, rendering the voyage long and tedious. This river has no falls, only currents, the largest of which render it necessary to relieve the barks of half their cargoes. Its bed is winding, and generally wide and handsome. Amongst many other fish which it affords the most esteemed are the sorubin, camurupin, piratinga, fidalgo, mandin, pirapemba, piranha, and trahira.

The river Poty, to which was given the name of the people who inhabited the country through which it flows at its commencement, originates on the western side of the mountain from whence the Jaguaribe before described issues, in the district of St. Joze. After a course of about fifty miles, traversing plains which abound with cattle, and fifteen miles below the arraial of the Piranhas, where there is a hermitage of the Lord Bom Jesus, it opens a narrow passage across the cordillera, forming various interesting cascades. Issuing from thence, it receives by the right margin the considerable stream Macambira, that flows from the Serra Cocos. Thirty-five miles below this confluence, it is united on the left by the small river Marvao; and about the same distance further, it receives by the same side the river St. Victor, which comes from the plains of Lagoa, with more than seventy miles of course, and brings with it the small rivers St. Nicolau and Berlengas. Upwards of seventy miles below this point, it discharges itself into the ocean. Its bed is for the most part wide, and its current tranquil. Canoes advance up some leagues; and upon its margins is cultivated good tobacco.

The river Gurguea issues from a stony part of the skirts of the serra of its name, which is a portion of that before mentioned, where the river Urussuhy[428] has its origin. After flowing seventy miles north, it gathers on the right the Pirahim, and, continuing in the same direction for one hundred and seventy miles more, it falls into the Parnahiba. Its current is rapid, and almost universally through a flat country, abounding with cattle. It affords navigation only during the winter, has one fall a few leagues above its mouth, and its waters are of a greenish colour.

The river Pirahim originates nine leagues to the east of the preceding, at the base of the same serra, which forms the boundary on the side of Pernambuco, and, after seventy miles of course northward, it traverses the lake Pernagua, and fifty miles lower enters the Parnahiba. It runs almost generally between narrow banks, and with considerable depth through a solid soil.

The Caninde has its source near Serra Dois Irmaos, runs northward, and passes within two miles of Oeyras; and seventy miles further its waters are absorbed by the Parnahiba, after a course of one hundred and eighty miles, through a flat country rich in cattle; it runs at first only as a current during the period of rains. In the angle of its confluence there is an extensive plain, well adapted for the foundation of a town, and within its precincts every branch of agriculture would not fail to flourish.

The Itahim rises near the southern boundary of the province, passes near the serra Vermelha, flowing for a considerable space parallel with the Caninde, which it joins on the right eighteen miles above Oeyras, after having traversed an extensive country abounding with cattle. Its largest confluent is the small river Guaribis, which has a considerable course, and joins it, by the right margin, eight miles above its mouth.

The Piauhy, from which the province derives its name, originates near the boundary, runs north, and enters the Caninde fifty miles below the capital, after a course of one hundred and forty miles, through lands affording pasturage for cattle.

The river Longa rises in the campos of the town of Campo Maior, passing it within eight miles, and taking a northerly direction. Among other small rivers which enlarge it, are the Sorubim, the Maratahoan, running through a bed of amolar stone, and the Piracruca, which comes from the Serra Hibiapaba. It is only considerable during rains, and navigable for the space of twenty miles to the situation of Victoria. Near its margins, which abound with cattle and capibaras, there are many lakes: some are considerable, and have small islands, but the whole are dried up immediately the river begins to be impoverished by drought.

Phytology.—This province has few woods, and those of little extent; but possesses trees of good timber for building. The carnahuba and piassaba trees are very numerous in some districts. Cocoa-nut trees appear only in the vicinity of the sea. Quinaquina, or Jesuits’ bark, is said to grow here. The soil is in parts substantial, and appropriated to the culture of mandioca, Indian corn, legumes, rice, the cane, and tobacco, producing sufficient of all for the consumption of the country. The tobacco upon the margins of the Parnahiba passes in the opinion of many for the best in the Brazil; at least it is dearer, and preferred to the approved quality of Bahia. There are large plantations of the cotton tree, the produce of which furnishes a considerable branch of commerce. Jalap and ipecacuanha are not unknown; as also, among other fruit trees of the plains, the ambuzo, the jabuticaba, and the mangaba; the jaca and mango trees are rare. The orange and banana trees are not common to all places; but the atta, or pine tree, prospers almost in all parts, and produces fruit in perfection. European fruit trees scarcely appear. The fig and the vine acquire little size and fructify in small quantity.

Zoology.—The abundance and good quality of pasturage which is met with in all the districts, and generally without many portions appropriated to agriculture, has caused the lands, almost in all parts, to be destined for breeding cattle, which are prodigiously numerous, and constitute the main property in the country; and this province may be considered the great mart for the supply of beef to Maranham, Pernambuco, and Bahia, at which places the cattle arrive in much better condition than at Rio de Janeiro. Horses are not bred beyond the wants of the country. Sheep are numerous, and goats much less so; but if the inhabitants were industrious, and well acquainted with cutting and tanning the skins, they would form a considerable branch of commerce. All the wild animals of the neighbouring provinces are well known here; deer are the most numerous. In the short extent of the coast of this province there are no islands, capes, nor points; and the only port is that of the river Hyguarassu, capable of receiving sumacas, which formerly navigated to the town of St. Joao, but at present remain eight miles below it, in consequence of the river diminishing in depth. The entrance, besides, is dangerous.

Oeyras, to which King Joseph gave the title of city, with this appellation, in honour of his celebrated secretary, the first count of that name, was denominated until then the town of Mocha, having been so created in the reign of John V. about the year 1718; and, although it has been from this period the capital of the province, it does not yet surpass a small town; but is well enough supplied, and well situated near the right margin of a stream, which, three miles lower, falls into the Caninde. It is two hundred and fifty miles to the south of St. Joam de Parnahiba, and upwards of three hundred to the south-south-east of St. Luiz of Maranham; one hundred and forty in the same direction from Cachias; and between six and seven hundred miles to the west of the town of Pernambuco. The church is dedicated to the Lady of Victory, and it has also the hermitages of Conceiçao and Rozario. The houses are generally of clay and timber, whitened with potters’ earth; and the greater part of its inhabitants are Europeans.

Parnahiba, a middling town, and the principal in the province, is advantageously situated upon a point on the right margin of the eastern branch of the river from which its name is borrowed, in sandy ground, fifteen miles from the sea. It has some houses of one story, which are not seen in any other towns of the province; and the streets are generally unpaved. It is the deposit of a great quantity of cotton and hides, and has a church dedicated to the Lady of Graca. The inhabitants draw their water from the river or from cacimbas, and are frequently attacked with fevers. In 1811, it became the residence of a Juiz de Fora, and a custom-house was at the same time established. Within its district large and excellent melons grow, also water-melons throughout the year.

Campo Maior is a town in a state of mediocrity, well situated upon the margin, and eight miles above the embouchure of the small river Sorubim, of which it formerly had the name. It is thirty miles distant from Parnahiba, near a profound lake, stored with fish and good water. Besides the church dedicated to St. Antonio, it has a hermitage of the Lady of Rozario. The small river Maratahoan washes its district, from the bed of which are drawn excellent grindstones. The inhabitants breed cattle, and cultivate cotton and the necessaries of life.

Vallenca, primitively Catinguinha, is a small town, situated upon an insignificant stream, which fifteen miles lower enters the river St. Victor. Its church is dedicated to the Lady of O. Within its district there is saltpetre, and good[431] pasturage, where many cattle are bred. Twenty-five miles distant is the chapel of the Lady of Conceiçao, and in its environs are cultivated the necessaries of life peculiar to the country.

Marvao, whose first name was Rancho do Prato, is also a small place, situated in a plain twenty miles above the mouth of the small river so called, on the margin of which graze herds of large cattle, constituting the wealth of its dwellers. The Lady of Desterro is the patroness of its church, and within the district there is silver and pumice-stone.

Jerumenha is an insignificant town, upon the margin and fifteen miles above the embouchure of the Gurguea, of which it had originally the name. It has a church dedicated to St. Antonio; and the inhabitants breed cattle and cultivate the common necessaries of life. They are frequently attacked with fevers.

Pernagua is a small town and well situated upon the western margin of a lake fifteen miles in length, near eight in width, deep, well stored with fish, and traversed by the river Pirahim. It has a fine church of stone, dedicated to the Lady of Livramento; having flat environs, small hills only being seen at a distance. The inhabitants, amongst whom are some Europeans, raise cattle and horses; and besides other agricultural productions, the sugar cane, of which is made rapaduras, and an ardent spirit. It is above fifty miles distant from the southern limits of the province, about the same from the river Preto, and above one hundred and thirty miles from the town of St. Francisco das Chagas. In its district there are portions of ground appropriated to the culture of tobacco.

The lake of Pernagua which is reduced to eight miles of length, and four in width, during the dry season, was formed, it is said, by an extraordinary overflowing of the river, since the Portuguese were masters of the country.

The considerable arraial of Piracruca, well situated near the small river of its name, forty miles distant from the mouth of the Longa, has the best church of the province. In its district there are copperas and the real Jesuits’ bark. The inhabitants have large plantations of cotton, mandioca, and sugar; from the latter rum and rapaduras are made.

The aldeia and Indian parish of St. Gonçalo d’Amarante, is in a well selected and fertile district, where any other class of people would ere this have rendered agriculture flourishing, lived in abundance, and have become rich. It is eighteen miles from the mouth of the Caninde, and seventy north of the capital; and was founded about the year 1766, for the habitation of nine hundred Guegues, who occupied the country about the heads of the Parnahiba, and sixteen hundred Acroas, who lived more to the southward. Some time having[432] elapsed, the whole deserted: they were, however, subsequently re-conquered, and re-established in the same place, which has ever since been going into a state of decay.

The parish of the Lady of Merces, whose first inhabitants were mainly Jahico Indians, lies between the Itahim, and the small river Guaribas. All the parishioners live dispersed, the vicar being the only resident near the church, which is about seventy miles from the capital.

The two last parishes were created a few years ago, and formerly belonged to that of the capital; in whose extensive district there are yet to be remarked the chapel of Our Lady of Humildes, not far removed from the heads of the Caninde; that of St. Ignacio, near the same river, and thirty-five miles from the capital; that of St. Joam, near the origin of the Piauhy; and the Lady of Nazareth, upon the margin of the said river, forty miles from Oeyras; also the Lady of Conceiçao, in the situation of Bocayna, near the small river Guaribas.

The considerable arraial of Poti, advantageously situated near the embouchure of the river which affords it the name, has already some commerce, and might easily become a considerable povoaçao. All the people are within the diocese of the bishop of Maranham, who has a vicar-general at Oeyras. The literary subsidy, as it is denominated, arising from an impost upon cattle in this province, is important enough. But there was not till within this few years a single royal professor, as they are so imposingly styled, in any part of it, for either the primitive letters or Latin; but instead of any knowledge of the classics being diffused amongst the population of the Brazil, by these titled masters, it is altogether unlettered; in fact, I have seen some of those royal preceptors unattended by a single pupil.

John III. was more peculiarly attentive to the prosperity and improvement of the Brazil, than any other of the Portuguese sovereigns, with the exception of the present monarch, John VI. whose salutary administration of power in the Transatlantic part of his dominions, may be regarded as the result of those important events in Europe, which led to the removal of the Royal Family to this region, and the consequent introduction of a more liberal intercourse with other nations. But these benefits are but the dawnings of future civilization and improvement.

John III. in pursuance of his good wishes towards the Brazil, determined to partition the coast into capitanias, and that denominated Maranhao, was presented by his Majesty to the historian Joam de Barros. It is probable that this part of the coast had acquired that name from the circumstance of V. Y. Pinson, after his discovery of Cape St. Augustin, having entered a gulf or the mouth of a great river, which was unquestionably the Amazons, and whose waters not possessing the saline qualities of the ocean, he called Mara-non, (not sea.) Hence followed the Portuguese denomination of this territory Maranhao, and Maranham by the English, resulting from the false notion which the Portuguese at first entertained that it was the great river. Its donatory, Joam de Barros, being a man of noble spirit, and determined to do the utmost for the colonization of this important donation, united with his own inadequate means those of the Cavalheiros Fernando Alvarez and Ayres da Cunha. It was unanimously agreed that Ayres da Cunha should be intrusted with the settlement[434] of the colony, which sailed from Lisbon in 1535, consisting of nine hundred persons, including two sons of the donatory, with the important addition of one hundred and thirteen horses.

This armament, comprising ten vessels, and considered the most powerful that had sailed for a long period from the Tagus, was unfortunately wrecked upon the shoals which surround the island of Maranham. Some persons escaped to the island of Medi or Boqueirao at the entrance of the bay; but which not being adapted for the foundation of the colony, they abandoned and returned to Portugal by the first vessel that appeared, excepting one individual, a blacksmith, called Pedro, or Pero, who remained among the Indians, and rendered himself highly important and exceedingly useful to them, in consequence of the variety of instruments he constructed of the iron taken from the fragments of the wreck that were washed upon the beach. A daughter of a cacique, or prince, was bestowed upon him in marriage, by whom he had two sons, both called Pedros, or Peros, from which the Indians thought the Portuguese all had this name, and they usually gave that nation the appellation of Peros.

The severe disappointment which Barros sustained, not only in the loss of his property but of his two sons, by this terrible disaster, deterred him from making any further attempt. And the same monarch gave this territory to Luiz de Mello, and furnished him with three ships and two caravels, that he might the more effectually execute his project, which was to penetrate by the river Amazons as far as the eastern mines of Peru. He was not, however, much less unfortunate than Ayres da Cunha, the whole of the armament being lost near the same place, excepting one caravel that escaped, and with which he returned to Lisbon. These misfortunes attending the vessels that entered even the best anchorage place of this province discouraged all those persons who were capable of colonizing its fertile land, but did not prevent its being visited by other nations.

In the year 1594 M. Rifault, a Frenchman, entered the port of Maranham with three sail, where he left Charles Vaux and a small number of his crew. This weak colony was reinforced in the year 1612 by M. Ravardiere. Two years afterwards Jeronimo d’Albuquerque Coelho was despatched from Pernambuco by order of the governor, Gaspar de Souza, to expel those intruders, over whom, after some attacks, he gained very little advantage, by a capitulation which he entered into with them. Alexandre de Moura, who arrived there the following year with a strong force, proposed, instead of the capitulation,[435] the evacuation of the place by the French, to which their commander, from the weak condition of the colony, was under the necessity of acceding. This event, occurring on the 1st of November, induced Moura to give the name of Todos os Santos to the island, which it did not however long retain.

Jeronimo d’Albuquerque was left here by Alexandre de Moura with the post of captao-mor, and was instructed to found a povoaçao and continue the conquest of this new province on account of the government. He preferred the situation which had been selected by the French, where he commenced the capital, in the increase and defence of which he was occupied till the year 1618, when he died, and was succeeded by his son, Antonio d’Albuquerque, as temporary governor for more than a year, when Domingos da Costa Machado was appointed to this situation. In the beginning of his government Jorge de Lemos arrived there with two hundred families from the Azores, in three vessels, at his own cost.

In 1621 there was a very great mortality amongst the domestic Indians, caused by the small pox. Part of this loss was remedied in the same year by the transmission of forty families, also from the islands of the Azores, by the provedor-mor, Antonio Ferraira Bitancourt, in pursuance of an arrangement made with the crown.

Antonio Moniz Barreiros succeeded to this government in 1622, to whom the senate, in the name of the people, presented a requisition that he would not consent to the establishment of the Jesuits there, as it was thought the introduction of their principles among the Indians would not be favourable to the colonists. He established two sugar works, in accomplishment of the obligation his father, of the same name, was under from being appointed provedor-mor of the treasury at Bahia.

Some time before Barreiros began his government the court of Madrid (in 1621) resolved to form the conquests of Maranham into a new state of the same name, and for its governor was nominated D. Diogo de Carcoma, whose refusal occasioned the appointment of D. Francisco de Moura. This individual not going, Francisco Coelho de Carvalho was elected, who sailed from the Tagus in March, 1624, and disembarked at Pernambuco, where the irruptions of the Dutch detained him nearly two years, so that he did not arrive at the capital of Maranham till 1626, having previously taken possession of the fort of Siara, which then formed a part of this province. In the following year he visited the province of Grand Para and entered the bay of Gurupy, where he established[436] a povoaçao, which he called Vera Cruz, and died in the twelfth year of his government.

In 1641, when John IV. again had an ambassador at the Dutch court, which had recognised him as the legitimate sovereign of Portugal, a Dutch vessel arrived at Maranham, under the pretence of having been driven there by a violent tempest, and requested that assistance which in such cases is customary for friendly nations to afford to each other. The credulous friendship of the governor was taken advantage of by the Dutch, who suddenly possessed themselves of the capital, and with facility subjugated the rest of the province; from whence, however, they were expelled by the Portuguese in 1643.

All the governors of this province had not the titles of captains-general of the state; occasionally Grand Para enjoyed this pre-eminence. All proceedings that admitted of appeal after the sentence of the magistrates, in all the provinces, were always referred to the court, and their bishops immediately upon creation became suffragans of the metropolitan of Lisbon.

The subjection of the Portuguese nation to a foreign sceptre, the pretensions of the Dutch to the Brazil, afterwards the prolonged war preceding the reversion of the crown, and, finally, the alleged long existing destructive abuses of the Braganza family, are adduced as plausible reasons for the unflourishing state of the Brazil for nearly a century and a half.

With the change of hemisphere the first colonists are also said to have changed their customs, entering into the pursuits of agriculture with no spirit, alike regarding improvement and instruction with indifference, and preferring the idiom of the barbarous Tupinambas to their own. The various Jesuitical missionaries, however, made great progress in the conversion of the Indians, and in which they would have been more successful had not the colonists degenerated so much and relaxed in their obedience to the laws. The Portuguese language began to be generally used in the year 1755, and at this epoch agriculture assumed a more flourishing aspect, in consequence of the creation of a public company, which included the province of Para. Its capital amounted to one million two hundred thousand crusades, which was raised by twelve hundred shares; the possession of ten shares rendered each individual eligible to the administration of the affairs of the company, which was decried by some as introductory of ignorance and a system of destruction.

This province is bounded on the north by the ocean, on the west by the province of Para, on the south by those of Goyaz and Piauhy, and on the east by the[437] latter. It is of a triangular form, extending nearly four hundred miles from north to south on its western side, and about three hundred and fifty miles from west to east along the coast, lying between 1° and 7½° south latitude. Its vicinity to the equator renders the climate hot. The thunderstorms introduce the winter season, which begin in the southern districts about the month of October, where the longest day is twelve hours and a half. In the northern part of the province there is scarcely any difference between the day and night all the year. The country is mostly uneven, but without any mountains of considerable elevation. It has large and numerous rivers, and is mainly covered with woods, affording a variety and abundance of excellent timber.

Rivers, Ports, and Islands.—About two miles within the bar of the channel of Tutoya, (the western branch of the river Parnahyba and the eastern limits of this province,) the river of the same name is discharged, after a short course, being only of note as far as the tide ascends. In front of its mouth is a small island, which forms an anchorage place.

Fifteen miles to the west of Tutoya bar is the Perguicas, which is large, and affords good anchorage for small vessels within the eastern point. Following a handsome beach of white sand for about thirty miles, denominated the Lancoes, and at its termination another of about twelve miles, covered with mangroves, is the river Marim, which flows through a fertile soil and is discharged by three mouths. Passing the western mouth of this river the coast changes its direction to the south-west, and forms a gulf or bay of about thirty-five miles in extent, in which is situated the island of Maranham, (twenty miles long from north-east to south-west, and fifteen at its greatest width,) forming, with the continent, two bays, one to the east, called St. Joze, and the other to the west, St. Marcos, each about six miles in width, communicating by a narrow strait, denominated the river Mosquito, fifteen miles long, and separating the island from the continent: this island, almost covered with woods, has some eminences and fifteen perennial streams.

Seven miles beyond the Marim the Perea discharges itself, and is navigable for a considerable distance. Almost in front of it is an island of the same name, near to which is another, called Raza, and not far distant that of St. Anna. The river Moconandiva follows, and after it the Mamuna, which is discharged by two mouths, the western one being called Aragatuba; the interval between it and the Perea, about twelve miles, is an archipelago. Twenty-eight miles further is discharged the large river Mony, which originates about twenty-five[438] miles from the margin of the Parnahyba, and six miles above its mouth receives the Iguara, which waters a country where the necessaries of life are only partially cultivated. Three miles west of the Mony is the vast embouchure of the large river Itapicuru, being the most considerable of the province. It originates in the district of Balsas, the most southern portion of Maranham, where it already assumes the appearance of a large river, running north-east to Cachias, one hundred miles above which it receives on the left the Alpercatas, of equal size, and which comes from the territory of the Tymbyra Indians, whither it affords navigation to canoes. In Cachias it changes its direction to the north-west, and passes by two parishes of the same name, where the tide and the navigation of large barks with the sail terminate. Its current is rapid and the course winding, generally through extensive woods. The fishermen who use the line about the heads of this river, occasionally catch a species of small eel whose electric powers are greater than the torpedo, conveying its influence up the line and rod, and benumbing the arm, so that it cannot be moved; this electrical effect is attributed to a stone the fish has in its head, and which is much esteemed by the superstitious, who attach many virtues to it. Humboldt tried many interesting experiments with this fish, whose electric fire is exhausted after many discharges; amongst other trials of its power were the driving horses into a pond and compelling them to withstand the gradually decreasing shocks of a great many of them. The two last rivers enter the bay of St. Joze.

About twenty miles further west, at the bottom of the bay of St. Marcos and the same distance south-west of the capital is the mouth of the large river Meary, or Mearim, sometimes called Maranham, which originates also in the southern part of the province, describing numerous windings, and increasing by the addition of various streams, among which is the Grajehu. Its bed is deep and wide, and the current so rapid that it suspends the progress of the tide for a considerable period, and produces by this opposition an extraordinary agitation of the waters, which is called Pororocas; when the tide has vanquished its opponent it flows up for three hours with astonishing rapidity. This phenomenon occupies a space of nearly fifteen miles, occasioning a loud noise, and there are situations, called esperas, where canoes wait until the tide re-advances, and then continue their voyage without danger. This large river, which has the least depth at its extended mouth where vessels can only enter with the tide, affords navigation to the centre of the province, where a large fall interrupts it. It traverses the territories of the Gamella Indians and other barbarous nations. In the vicinity of the sea it flows through fine campinhas[439] of fertile land, where cattle are raised, a diversity of the necessaries of life, and cotton. One of its principal and last confluents is the Pinnare, up which small craft proceed to the town of Vianna. The coast beyond the Mearim inclines to the north, forming a bay ten miles in extent, about fifteen miles beyond which is the bay of Cuma, nine miles long and three wide, open to the east, and receiving the river Piracunan.

Twenty miles further is the bay called Cabello da Velha, six miles wide, nearly of equal length, and receiving the river Cururupu. Its entrance is between two small islands surrounded with dangerous shoals. In the proximity of the shore, half way between the two last bays, is a file of five islands, thickly covered with woods; the largest is about four miles in length. About twenty miles further, the coast being bordered by the same number of islands, is the embouchure of the Turynana, which has an extensive course and here affords good anchorage for small vessels. In front of this is the island of St. Joam, the most westerly of those alluded to; it is ten miles long from north-east to south-west, flat, covered with woods, and occupied by birds and wild quadrupeds. A profound channel, three miles in width, separates it from the continent; near its north-eastern point there is safe anchorage.

Further westward is the vast bay of Turyvassu, the limits of the province on the side of Para. It receives a river of the same name, after flowing a great distance through extensive woods. The Indians, who, under various appellations had the dominion of the island of Maranham and the adjoining continent, were Tupinambas, and divided into small tribes.

Mineralogy.—Calcareous stone, copperas, alum, iron, lead, and silver, antimony, amianthus, saltpetre, mineral salt, crystals, grindstone, and quarries or rocks of granite.

Phytology.—The Asiatic cocoa-nut tree grows sparingly, and only along the coast. The pine is common, and fructifies in perfection. From the fruit of the mamona is extracted almost all the oil which is used for lights. Here are trees of gum copal, storax, mastick, bensoin, dragons’ blood, the oil of cupahyba, or capivi, the arariba, from whose bark is extracted a beautiful crimson colour, the barbatimoe, cajue-nut ambuzo, cocoa, jabuticaba, mangaba, aracaza, babonilha, butua, ginger, jalap, ipecacuanha, and the palm. The cane prospers in many situations, but its culture has been supplanted by that of cotton, which constitutes the main article of exportation, and the principal wealth of the country. Amongst resinous trees is also the sucuba, the gum of which passes for the ammoniac of the Levant. The deity who presides over grain, the lifesustaining[440] Ceres, has here but little influence, and rice only is cultivated, but to a very great extent; the soil is equally well adapted to the produce of Indian corn. The irregularity of the seasons does not permit the cultivation of wheat, rye, or barley. Water-melons, melons, and pine-apples are excellent. The indigenous banana tree produces fruit in immense profusion and of the best quality.

Zoology.—Cattle, sheep, and goats multiply here better than in the countries from which they were imported, but do not improve in size nor in the flavour of their meat, neither are they very numerous, with the exception of the first. Mules are bred here, also hogs, equal to the consumption of the country. All the species of wild animals are met with, peculiar to the eastern provinces. The moco is numerous in all parts. The birds of the plains, woods, and lakes, known in the other districts, are common here; and the handsome guara abound in the proximity of the sea. There is in this part of South America a particular species of silk worm, more prolific than the ordinary kinds of Bombay or Persia. The colour of the silk is a dark yellow, and might be rendered a considerable branch of commerce, in consequence of the facility which would attend its abundant cultivation, if any adequate attention was afforded to it. The insect receives its nourishment from leaves of the orange and the pine tree, or atta, which is common in its native country.

All the territory lying between the rivers Itapicuru and the Parnahyba has been for many years evacuated by the Indians, as well as the northern part of that to the west of the first river, and is more or less inhabited by whites, and Christianized Indians, mainly occupied in the cultivation of mandioca, Indian corn, and legumes, and above all in the two vegetable articles of exportation, rice and cotton, almost all the labour being performed by the hands of negroes, who exceed by many times the number of the others. Families live for the most part dispersed. A certain proportion of land, where each cultivator dwells, generally with all his family and slaves, is of itself considered an aldeia. There are few aldeias compared with the extent of the province, having any considerable number of families, with the exception of those which have been created parishes, many comprising sixty miles or more of district. Excellent nets used for sleeping, and some coarse cottons, made into dresses, generally for slaves, are manufactured here.

The southern portion of the western district of this province is still in the possession of the Indians, as well as a great extent of the central part. The most northern tribe, bordering upon the Portuguese, are called by them the Gamellas,[441] in consequence of their prevailing custom of perforating and distending the under lip, with a sort of calabash, or round piece of wood, which produces some resemblance to a small gamella, or wooden bowl. They cultivate various necessaries of life, and live in cabanas, when they are not out upon their hunting excursions, or gathering wild fruits. Their arms are the bow and arrow, and a club of hard wood, denominated a mataranna, cornered at the thicker end and pointed at the other.

The Timbyras occupy the country to the south of them, and are divided into two hordes, one denominated Timbyras da Matta, (of the wood,) from living in the interior of forests; the other, Timbyras de Canella Fina, from the delicate form of their legs. They rove in the desert plains, and are of such amazing velocity, that they equal the swiftness of the horse. All use a bow made of a species of small club, and another large one of violet wood, and flat. Those of the woods have in their territory a large lake, and mines of salt, which they use, and cultivate mandioca and other necessaries, also some cotton, of which they make their hammocks. They distil various beverages, more or less inebriating, which last only for a short time, arising as much from the quality as the excess with which they use them. From the period they begin to drink them, till they are finished, are days of folly, dedicated to tumultuous dancing and dissension.

Proceeding southward, the Manajos are met with, who are of a white complexion, and occupy a country to the west of Balsas, extending themselves to the margin of the Tucantins, where they receive the name of Temembos. In their vicinity dwell the Bus and Cupinharos. The territory bounding this province and Para is inhabited by the Gê Indians, who are divided into five tribes, distinguished by the appellations of Auge, Crange, Cannacatage, Poncatage, and Paycoge, and almost without any difference of language or customs.

Alcantara, about ten miles north-west of the capital is a large town, with good houses, and agreeably situated upon elevated ground, having four hermitages, a convent of slippered Carmalites, another of Mercenaries, and a fort,[442] seated upon the site where a Jesuitical hospicio existed. It was for some time the capital of the capitania of Cuma, which terminated in the bay of Turyvassu, and its port is capable of receiving sumacas. The cotton raised in its district is esteemed the best of the province. This article and rice constitute the principal productions of the inhabitants. The salterns, three miles north of it, are capable of furnishing excellent salt to many provinces, if they were administered, as in the time of the Jesuits, to whom they belonged.

Guimarens is a flourishing town, situated upon the northern side of the bay of Cuma, thirty miles north-north-west of Alcantara, with a church of St. Joze. From its port are exported cotton, rice, and a considerable quantity of farinha.

St. Joam de Cortes is a small and insignificant town, eighteen miles south of Guimarens, on the southern margin of the bay of Cuma, producing farinha, with some cotton and rice.

Vianna is a middling town, and well situated upon the margin of the Maracu, a branch of the Pinnare, in the vicinity of a large lake, about one hundred miles from the capital. The church is dedicated to Our Lady of Conceiçao; and its inhabitants raise cotton, mandioca, and other necessaries of life common to the country. They breed cattle and collect timber. In its district there is one of the best sugar works of the province, and formerly belonging to the Jesuits.

Moncao, eighteen miles south of Vianna, is a small Indian town, with a church, upon the banks of the Pinnare. Its inhabitants raise the provisions of life, some cotton, and follow fishing and hunting.

Hycatu, (good water,) an ancient town, and formerly considerable and flourishing, is situated near the confluence of the Hyguara with the Mony, and has a church of Our Lady of Conceiçao. It was the first residence of the governors of the province, and conceded many privileges to its senate. An excellent quality of cotton constitutes the chief production of its inhabitants.

Cachias, a considerable and flourishing town upon the eastern margin of the Itapicuru, is two hundred miles south-east of the capital, and nearly the same distance north-north-west of Oeyras. It has a church of Our Lady of Conceiçao, and a hermitage of Razario; Aldeias Altas was its primitive name. A Juiz de Fora has presided over its senate since the year 1809. The propensity to gambling amongst its inhabitants has occasioned the ruin of many merchants of the capital. Within its extensive district a very great quantity of cotton and rice is grown, for whose transmission to the parish of Rozario barks of considerable burden are constructed for navigating in shoal water.

Upon the other side of the river is the parish of Trezidellas, whose parishioners are descended from the Aborigines. They have a church of Our Lady of Razario.

One hundred miles above Cachias, and upon the margin of the Itapicuru, is the small arraial of Principe Regente, commenced in June, 1807. The fertility of its surrounding country and the advantage arising from canoes of considerable burden being able to navigate hither augur favourably for the future prosperity of this new colony, where a hermitage already exists.

In the district of Balsas is the parish of St. Felis, whose inhabitants are farmers of cotton and common necessaries.

Thirty miles south-south-west of Principe Regente is the arraial of St. Bento Pastos Bons, situated amongst small hills, ten miles from the Parnahyba, and twenty-eight from the Itapicuru. Cattle and cotton constitute the main property of its inhabitants.

Three miles north of Pastos Bons is the aldeia of St. Antonio, whose dwellers are a tribe of Christianized Manago Indians, who live by hunting, and some agriculture.

Thirty-five miles from the sea, upon the margin of the Itapicuru, is the parish of Rozario, better known by the name of Itapicuru Grande, whose inhabitants raise cattle and a considerable quantity of rice. Here large canoes arrive from the capital, and are laden with the productions of this district, and those that descend from the High Itapicuru and Balsas.

Twenty-eight miles further, and upon the margin of the same river, is the considerable povoaçao of Itapicuru Mirim, with a church of Our Lady of Griefs, its inhabitants producing large quantities of cotton, and the necessaries of life. Between the two preceding parishes is that of Lapa, in the site of St. Miguel.

Upon the margin of the Mearim, fifty miles from the sea, is the parish of N. Senhora of Nazareth, whose inhabitants raise cattle, cotton, rice, &c. without gaining much wealth.

Tury is a villota, or small town, with only the appearance of an aldeia, but which may become more considerable from its situation upon the large bay of the same name, and the fertility of its adjacent territory, particularly after the pacification of the central Indians. The church is dedicated to St. Francisco Xavier.

Near the mouth of the Tutoya, in an advantageous situation, is the parish of Conceiçao, well supplied with fish and the necessaries of life, having a port[444] capable of receiving sumacas, and possessing greater depth than any other of the Parnahyba.

Considerably to the southward, and two miles from the Parnahyba, is the parish of St. Bernardo d’ Annapuru, cotton being the production of its diversified population.

Vinhaes is a small town, three miles to the east of the capital, situated in the same island, upon a stream of its name, with a church dedicated to St. Joam Baptista. The houses are constructed of wood, and covered with straw, and its inhabitants are Indians, who fish, and cultivate various necessaries of life; they also make mats of miassava for trimming ships and cords of imbe.

Passo do Lumiar is the most populous town of Indians in the whole province, and is in the centre of the island, upon the river St. Joam. The church is of stone, dedicated to Our Lady of Luz, and its inhabitants are of divers nations, cultivating excellent tobacco, rice, mandioca, &c.; they are also woodcutters and fishermen.

In the eastern extremity of the island there is a considerable aldeia, pleasantly situated, with a hermitage of St. Joze, from which the bay already mentioned takes the name.

This island is of medium altitude, the soil in general fertile, and appropriated to different branches of agriculture.

Maranham, or St. Luiz, the capital of the province, is a city advanced to rather more than a state of mediocrity, having about thirty thousand inhabitants; and, although it may be said to rank the lowest among four great commercial cities of the Brazil, yet its amount of commerce is not far short of Pernambuco, and it certainly has maintained a progression of improvement with the latter city, as well as Bahia, since the removal of the Royal Family to this region. It is situated upon the western part of the island of the same name, between the mouth of two streams, rendered important rivers by the addition of the tide, which advances nearly to their origins, and swells them considerably. The one north of the city is called the St. Francisco, as far as the confluence of the Anil with that of Vinhaes, neither of which are more than six miles in extent. The other, on the south, denominated the Maranham, is a handsome current, and receives by its northern margin the Baccanga.

This town was created a bishopric in the year 1676, and is ornamented with a house of Misericordia, convents of slippered Carmelites, of Mercenarios, and of Franciscans; a recolhimento for women, and a hospital. The ci-devant Jesuitical college is converted into the episcopal palace, and its church into the[445] cathedral. The houses have verandas and do not differ from the general style of Portuguese buildings. The streets are paved, and disagreeably crowded with slaves, producing the same ungracious feelings in this respect as are peculiar to all towns of the Brazil. It is divided into two parishes, one of them being attached to the cathedral dedicated to Nossa Senhora of Victoria, and the other to Nossa Senhora da Conceiçao. It has a court of Relacam, which Pernambuco does not yet possess, created in the year 1812, and having a jurisdiction over an extensive district, comprehending not only the comarcas of Maranham, Piauhy, Para, and Rio Negro, but also of Siara, as well as all the other comarcas and judicatures, which, in the provinces referred to, may be created de novo. The members of this Relacam are composed of the governor, the chancellor, and at most of nine dezembargadors, which latter is a title given to those eligible to or holding posts of judicature, ouvidorships, &c. Here is also a tribunal of the Real Fazenda, a Port Admiral, and Royal Professors of the Primitive Letters, Latin, Rhetorick, and Philosophy, similar in their import and effect to those of other places. It is scarcely necessary to observe, after the description of the province, that cotton and rice are the principal exportations from this city. Its cotton has required the repute of being next in quality to that of Pernambuco, and obtains in the British market a price within 1½d per lb. of that cotton, and 1d. per lb. above that of Bahia. The export of cotton from Maranham, the year after the arrival of the Royal Family in the Brazil, was upwards of seventy thousand bags; it fell the two following years to fifty thousand, and the next year to forty thousand, but rose again to sixty thousand in the year 1813, from which period to 1817 its average may be estimated at sixty thousand bags. The following is a correct statement of the exports in 1818 and 1819.

Total value, 3,783,020 941, at 5s. the Milrea, is £945,755 4s. 2d. sterling; one-third deducted will be about the present value.

It appears to be uncertain whether this city or Pernambuco will in future take the lead in the exportation of cotton. Two-thirds of this article from Maranham is sent principally to the port of Liverpool, from whence the greatest portion of manufactured goods for the consumption of the province are shipped,[447] and our merchants labour under the same disadvantage here as at Bahia and Pernambuco, in having no alternative but taking produce for the whole of their importations, which necessarily keeps up the price much above the proportionable par of the British market. There is a singular coincidence in the commercial intercourse of the two countries, relative to cotton. Nearly the amount of the annual Brazilian exports to England of this article is returned to that country in a manufactured state in the course of the following year; and, notwithstanding all the ingenuity of machinery, talent, and superior intelligence brought into the scale on the part of the British manufacturer and merchant, the Brazilians have decidedly the advantage over them in the progression of continued gain and enrichment. The illiterate and uncultivated planter derives his wealth from the refined state of British manufactures and commerce, while their votaries have for sometime, and are yet sustaining serious injury by this portion at least of their transatlantic intercourse.

It is probable that the exports from this city, as well as Pernambuco, may be lessened so far as regards the Fora cottons, or those coming from the adjoining provinces, which are acquiring by degrees a direct intercourse with Europe, and not as hitherto through the medium of those ports. In the provinces where establishments are forming, the governors are desirous of concentrating the whole of its productions through the medium of the head town, in order to increase the revenues of their jurisdictions. It may be observed again, that it is English establishments branching from this city and Pernambuco principally that afford these advantages to the rising provinces of Para, Parahiba, Rio Grande de Norte, and Siara.

This city is well supplied with fish, water, meat, and fine fruits. Three fortifications defend its port, which is diminishing in depth of water. The tide rises here twenty-eight palms, but there is considerable intricacy, attended with danger, in vessels approaching the anchorage place. Amongst the English merchants established here, the Consul ranks as one. There is an English hospital amply provided with means from the contribution fund. The governors of the provinces are usually changed every three years. General Silveira is here the present governor.

A provisional constitutional government was formed here in April, 1821, to continue in force till the basis of the Portuguese constitution should be fixed. The popular feeling was in favour of a government to consist of five or six members; but, after some contention, the first was adopted, General Silveira declining to remain at the head of the council upon any other condition.

Subsequent to the restoration of the island of Maranham, Francisco Caldeyra sailed from that port with two hundred soldiers, in three caravels, at the end of the year 1615, to him being confided the important project of selecting an eligible situation for the establishment of another colony, more immediately in the vicinity of the Amazons; equally with a view of promoting the navigation of that great river, and of frustrating the attempts of any other nation, that might be made in prejudice to the rights assumed by the Lusitanian crown to its adjacent territory.

After various observations on different parts of the coast, he anchored in the port near which now stands the city of Belem, commonly called Para, to which he immediately gave a commencement, by the erection of a wooden fort, in the beginning of the year 1616, denominating the territory Gram-Para, and imagining that he was founding his colony upon the margin of the great river.

This archipelago soon presented, and was for many years the theatre of a cruel and inveterate warfare. Various Indian nations opposed the establishment of this colony, principally the Tupinambazes, the remains and descendants of various hordes of the numerous Tupinamba tribe, under whose dominion the sertams of Pernambuco were, when the Portuguese extended their conquests into the interior of that province. Not being able to resist the progress[449] of their invaders, they fled from them to the margins of the Tucantins and the Amazons.

The attacks of the Indians upon the new settlers increased with the pretensions of the Dutch to the country, who inspired them with enthusiasm for conquest; the ardour of which was augmented, by the attempts of some small parties of English and French upon the Amazons. Caldeira was regarded by the Portuguese as an intrepid commander, but was wanting in equity, and the necessary qualifications to found a colony amongst these savage tribes.

The barbarous assassination, by a near relation of his, of a Captain esteemed by the whole colony, led to the termination of his government. He pretended to expiate the atrocity of his relative by a few days imprisonment; and rigorously treated two honourable men who boldly required from him a punishment adequate to the crime of the murderer. The circumstances attending it produced a considerable tumult, from which resulted his imprisonment in 1618.

In the intermediate short government of Captain Balthazar Rodrigues de Mello, the colony was assaulted with such intrepidity, by the Tupinambazes, that the issue would have been doubtful, if the chief of the Indians, denominated by the Portuguese, Cabello da Velha, had not fallen dead soon after the commencement of the attack.

In the year 1619, shortly after the Indians had retired, Jeronimo Fragozo d’Albuquerque arrived from Pernambuco, being appointed by Don Luiz de Souza to transmit the prisoner Caldeira to the Court, and to succeed him in the government, which he commenced with various success, by means of an armament, of which he took the direction, having for his Admiral the celebrated Pedro Teyxeyra. At the moment of exultation after these advantages, Captain Bento Maciel arrived, from Pernambuco, with an auxiliary force of eighty Portuguese, and four hundred disciplined Indians, to assist in the prosecution of the war against the Tupinambazes.

In the same year, the death of the governor occurred, which was followed by the installation of Mathias d’Albuquerque, who was deposed, under some pretext, in the course of twenty days. He was succeeded by Captain Custodio Valente, Frey Antonio, guardian of the Capuchins, and Captain Pedro Teyxeyra, who governed alone after the departure of the first for Lisbon, and the resignation of the second.

His government was short, the before-mentioned Bento Maciel succeeding him in the year 1621. He expelled the Dutch, already established upon both margins of the Amazons; destroyed some hordes of the most courageous savages,[450] obliged others to fly, and induced many to come and offer peace and sincere friendship to the colony; thereby acquiring the title of the conqueror of Maranham, by which name the river Amazons was also designated. In his government the Jesuitical Missionaries made great progress.

In 1624, Manuel de Souza d’Eca succeeded him, by royal patent, an honour which was not conferred upon any of those who followed him, in the course of a century. By the active and diligent operations of the Missionaries the population became more numerous than that of the eastern province.

After this, some governors had the title of Captain Genera! of the State of Maranham, as were Joam d’Abreu Castello Branco, who governed in 1743, and Francisco Xavier de Mendonca, who arrived here in 1751, also appointed Plenipotentiary of Demarcation of the high Amazons.

The captivity of the Indians, customary in almost all the other provinces, and adopted in this since its first foundation, was continued. All labour was performed by the hands of the captive Indians, of which each colony prided itself in possessing the greatest number: riches were calculated by the quantity of these unfortunates. The injustice which was practised in this pretend right over their lives and liberty, the consequent prevailing disposition to indolence, avarice, and an indifference to vicious practices, engendered crimes amongst the colonists, tending to destroy every good and moral sentiment. The laws of the state and the sacred obligations of religion became odious to them, as restraints upon their vicious propensities. The Jesuit Antonio Viegra was the first, who, in the new state, declaimed with energy against the captivity of the aboriginal natives, and repaired to the metropolis expressly to solicit the adoption of more effectual measures for their liberty; and his colleagues, who entertained the same sentiments, were expelled at all points from both provinces in 1671.

The colonists of Para and Maranham were turbulent, and afforded considerable difficulties to the governors on this subject, until King Joseph issued a salutary law in 1755, which compelled them to observe the numerous edicts his ancestors had promulgated without effect in favour of the freedom of the Indians. The liberated Indians now passed under the inspection of administrators, who made them work generally on certain lands, the produce of which they were paid for out of the treasury, until the whole, in the regency of his present Majesty, were left to their free will. It is, however, to be remarked that many have since resumed the original state of nature, and the others have not advanced a step beyond their Indian brethren. The traders of Matto-Grosso and the high Maranham experience frequent injuries from the non-performance of contracts[451] they make with them, finding themselves frequently abandoned in situations of intricate navigation, where they are, in consequence, subjected to great difficulties.

In 1755 the Portuguese language began to be generally used here with the introduction of negroes, the freedom of the Indians, and the creation of the company already alluded to, up to which period the Tupinamba language was universally spoken; even the orators in the pulpit did not use any other.

This province is bounded on the north by the ocean and the river Maranham, or Amazons, which separates it from Guianna; on the west by the river Madeira; on the south by the provinces of Goyaz and Matto-Grosso; and on the east by that of Maranham. It extends from the equator to seven degrees of south latitude, with near eight hundred miles in length from east to west, and upwards of four hundred miles in its greatest width. The climate is invariably hot, even when it rains; the days and nights are nearly equal all the year, and the seasons almost prevail together. At the same time that some trees announce the autumn, by a profuse exhibition of fruits in a state of maturity, others are flourishing in their primitive bloom. The face of the country is generally flat, almost universally presenting an agreeable aspect, covered with extensive woods, where trees grow of a considerable height and prodigious girth. The soil in most parts is humid, substantial, and of great fertility, affording an abundance of various productions, which, in the other provinces, either do not exist or but in very small quantities. It also far surpasses all the others in the number and consequence of its rivers.

Mineralogy.—Crystals, emeralds, granite, silver, but not yet found in any quantity, argils, red lead, yellow ochre, from which is extracted ochre tinged with green.

Phytology.—In no other province are trees of such size produced; many of the most excellent building timber, some for cabinet work, various kinds affording tow for caulking, or flax for cordage; and the great Author of Nature has created others whose alimentary fruits afford sustenance to the living creature, the superabundance of which, for the most part, is of no utility, in consequence of the diminutive state of population. Amongst the oil and balsamic trees are to be noted the cumaru and cupahyba, or capiri, those of gum-storax are known here only by the name of omiry. The satin-wood is very valuable; the merapinima is compact and heavy, appearing like tortoiseshell when polished; there is the violet wood, the sucuba, which distils by incision a liquor, and taken[452] in certain doses, is an efficacious remedy against the maw-worm; the massaranduba distils another liquor, which occasionally makes fine gum; the juice of the assacu is one of the most subtle venoms; the resin of the getaicica is applied to the varnishing of earthern ware; the ashes of the chiriuba are esteemed the best known for the manufacture of soap. Among fruit trees are the orange, mangaba, saracaza, cajue-nut; the atta, or pine, is common, and the fruit very fine; the fig and vine are rare and do not fructify well; there are, also, the fruits of abiu, inga, assiahy, bacaba, inaja, cotitiriba, cupuassu, aguru. The cocoa-nut trees are seen only in the neighbourhood of the sea; the cedar is very large and numerous, also the sapucaya; the plants of vanilla and indigo grow spontaneously. The chesnut, that is the tree to whose fruit is commonly given the name of castanha do Maranham, differs from the sapucaya, with which it is sometimes confounded. The cautecuc passes, and with justice, for one of the most useful trees of this province, where it is common; it is of the euphorbium species, and from its trunk is extracted, by incision, a liquid, which condenses and turns into an elastic gum, with which, through the medium of moulds, are made seringes of various kinds, and when its juice is applied to dress renders it impenetrable to water. The cocoa shrub, or tree, are of two kinds, one produced by nature, the other by cultivation. Here is, likewise, sarsaparilla, ipecacuenha, butua, jallap, ginger; also, the pechurum-tree and that affording the clove, denominated cravo do Maranham and cucheri among the Indians.

The cultivation has here commenced of the laurel, or bay-tree, similar to that of the Mollucas. The latter is an aromatic drug of such particular flavour that nothing could be substituted for it, until the seventeenth century, when that of Maranham was discovered, which, though different in the form, is otherwise so similar and so adapted to all the uses of the first that it has caused not only a considerable reduction in the price, but in the consumption of it among European nations. The trees that produce it the best, grow in the same latitudes of Gram Para as the others do in the Mollucca islands, and there is no doubt that the soil and climate of this province is capable, with proper management, of producing any thing that any other part of the world can afford. The bread fruit tree has been recently introduced and prospers as in its native soil. The very small portion, indeed, of this part of the Brazil that is cultivated is appropriated to the culture of mandioca, Indian corn, legumes, coffee, cotton, the sugar cane, of which the engenhos at present are not numerous, and rice, which is very abundant; these, with cocoa and other minor[453] productions, principally engage the attention of agriculturists, who, with the population and industry, are at a very low ebb, compared to the advantages so pre-eminently offered by a country of such unexampled fertility.

Zoology.—All the species of domestic and wild quadrupeds peculiar to the surrounding provinces are common here, as likewise the most remarkable birds, such as the parrot, arrara, tucano, jacu, emu-ostrich, soco, araponga, mutun, troquaze pigeon, partridge, jaburu, divers sorts of geese, macaricos, colhereiras, sabias, and colibris; the guara, only met with in the vicinity of salt water, is very numerous. Various species of small birds, with a variety of beautiful plumage, are observed here, totally unknown in the other provinces; also, all the kinds of bees common to the Brazil, affording a profusion of honey, in the extensive woods, for the supply of the Indian.

Ports and Rivers.—Between the bay of Turyuassu and Point Tigioca there are upwards of twenty abundant rivers, each with its anchorage place for vessels of small burden, more or less commodious, either within or near their embouchures, the main part being within bays or spacious gulfs, commonly surrounded with mangroves, abounding in the guara, macarico, and other birds that exist upon shell-fish.

As almost all the rivers in this province run into the Amazons, we will speak of them in the order in which they enter that great recipient.

The river of the Amazons, also called Maranham by the Portuguese, and Guienna by some Indians, was discovered, after Pinson had passed its spacious outlet, in the interior of the continent, by his countryman Francisco Orellana, who descended by it from the mouth of the Napo to the ocean, in the year 1539, and, like the wondrous and fabulous statements of some of the first discoverers of new countries, he promulgated a story, that its margins were inhabited by warlike women, armed with bows, from which it improperly acquired the name by which it is universally known. In the year 1637, the Portuguese Captain Pedro Teyxeyra before mentioned, conducted a fleet of forty-seven canoes from Para up the Amazons, to the mouth of the Napo, and advanced up the latter as far as it was navigable. On his return, in the following year, he gave a circumstantial relation of both rivers, as did the Jesuit Christoval da Cunha, who returned with Teyxeyra from Quito, but neither of them met with any of the Amazons Orellana pretended to have seen. This river is, without exception, the largest in the world, having a course of upwards of four thousand miles. It is not designated in the whole of its extent by the names already[454] mentioned. The Portuguese more frequently call it the Amazons as far as the embouchure of Rio Negro; from thence upwards the Solimoes, and, at the famous confluence of the Ucayale with the Tanguragua, it takes the appellation of Maranham. It was doubtful for some time which of these was its principal head. The first, unquestionably, has the more extensive course, and is wider at their union than the latter.

The Tanguragua issues from lake Hyauricocha, situated in ten and a half degrees of south latitude, in the district of Huanaco, about one hundred miles north-north-east of Lima. It runs north-north-west for the space of three hundred and fifty miles between the two cordilleiras of the Andes as far as the town of Jaen de Bracamoras, commencing with the name of the lake in which it originates. At Bracamoras, where it begins to be navigable, it receives the Chinchipe on the left, which comes from the north-west; and on the right the Chachapoyas, which flows from the south-east, both navigable. Here it inclines to the north-east till it receives the Santiago, formed by various torrents, precipitated from the mountains of Loxa. In this interval of one hundred and forty miles, nearly midway, the Tanguragua receives the Chuchunga on the right, navigable for ten miles. It should have been observed, that the port of Bracamoras is on its left bank, and that immediately below the town its waters are contracted between two mountains, and, running furiously, descend by various falls. Below the Chuchunga it flows through the narrow strait of Cumbinama, and afterwards by that of Escorregabragas, neither of which are very dangerous.

At the confluence of the Santiago, the Tanguragua is five hundred yards in width, and three miles further, running eastward, it begins to straighten, traversing the interior cordilleira of the Andes, and is reduced in the narrowest part to fifty yards. The current descends this contracted channel of six miles, denominated Pongo, in the space of one hour. At its termination is situated the city of Borja.

Seventy miles below Borja it receives on the left the Marona, which is not inferior to the Santiago, descending from the volcano of Sangay, and forty miles further, on the same side, the considerable Pastaca, which originates also in the cordillera.

Thirty-five miles below, the large Guallaga enters it, originating a little to the north of lake Chiquiacoba in 11° of latitude, in the district of Huanaco, which name it takes for a considerable space, describing numerous[455] small windings. After it follows the river Chambyra, and then the Tigre, both flowing from the north-west, the latter having a course of three hundred miles.

Sixty miles below the embouchure of the Tigre, is the magnificent confluence of the Tanguragua, with the Ucayale. The Ucayale originates in the latitude of 18° south-east of the large lake Chucuito, otherwise Titicaca, and one hundred and twenty miles east-north-east of the city of Arica. It runs to the north and north-west, under the name of Benni, to its junction with the Apurimaco, in the latitude of 11°, where both their names are lost in that of the Ucayale.

The Apurimaco rises a few leagues north of the city of Arequipa, between the lake Chucuito and the Pacific Ocean, from which it is only distant about fifty miles; and runs northward, describing considerable windings, and gathering various other streams, amongst which the most important are the Pampas, on the left, in 13° 10′; the Urubamba, on the right, in 12° 15′; and the Montaro in 12° 6′, where it changes the direction towards the north-east. Previously to mingling its waters with the Benni it receives on the left the Perene, and on the right, ten miles above its mouth, the Pancartamba.

The Montaro issues from the lake Chinchayocha, in the district of Huanaco, in 11°, and flows for a considerable space to the south-east along the cordillera, describing extensive windings to its embouchure.

The largest tributary of the Ucayale, after it takes this name, is the Pachitea, which joins it on the left, in the latitude of 8° 30′, being more handsome in its appearance than considerable, its course not exceeding two hundred miles.

The Maranham, at the confluence where it takes this name, directs its course to the north-east for one hundred miles, receiving, on the left, the Napo, which originates in divers parts of the interior cordillera of the Andes, in the vicinity of Quito, from whence it flows to the south-east, collecting various others, and, after a course of five hundred and fifty miles, discharges itself by different channels, formed by several islands, above which it is twelve hundred yards in width.

With this river the Maranham becomes eighteen hundred yards wide, yet having acquired only a small portion of the volume of water with which it enters the ocean, from whence it is here distant thirteen hundred miles in a direct line. At this part it inclines to the east, and, after fifty miles of course, receives by the right the Cassiquin, which comes from the south, with three hundred and fifty miles of extent.

Seventy miles lower the Hyabary enters, which has its source in the territories of the Torromonas in 11° 30′.

Upwards of one hundred miles further is the mouth of the large Iça, which originates in the skirts of the said cordillera to the north-east of the Napo, and in the vicinity of St. Joam de Pasto, with the name of Putumajo.

The Hyutahy and the Hyurba follow; they are less than the preceding, being about three hundred and sixty fathoms in width, and next to the Teffe, the Coary, and the Purus, which are discharged by many mouths.

On the northern margin it receives the great river Hyapura, after an extensive course from the province of Popayan. This river runs parallel with the Maranham for a considerable distance, discharging itself in that space by nine channels, the mouth of the first being three hundred miles to the west of the last. Auatiparana, Euiratyba, Manhana, Uaranapu, Hyapura, Unana, Copeya, Hyucara, and Cadaya, are the names of the channels, and the order by which the Hyapura enters the Maranham. The Maranham is estimated to be nearly a mile and a half in width, at a certain part, free from islands, about twenty miles below the Purus, where the bottom, it is said, could not be found with a cord of one hundred and three fathoms.

After the Hyapura, its waters are swelled by the entrance, also on the northern side of the Rio Negro, almost equalling it in width and volume; and sixty miles lower, on the right, by the river Madeira, nearly two miles in width, being the most considerable of all the subordinate torrents that fill up the vast space between the receding margins of this wonderful river. The river Madeira was designated Cayary, until the Portuguese gave it the former denomination, in consequence of the large trunks of trees, some of cedar, of an extraordinary size, that floated down at the period of the floods, Madeira being the Portuguese word for wood or timber. It takes this name at the confluence of the Guapore with the Mam ore, which latter has its source in the province of Potoze, traversing that of Santa Cruz, and describing a vast semicircle by the east towards the north, being enlarged by numerous other currents, which join it on both sides to the said confluence, in latitude 10° 22′. One hundred and forty miles above this point, in the parallel of 13°, it communicates with the Benni, by the river Exaltacao, issuing from the lake Rogagualo, from which another of short extent flows to the Mamore.

In front of the angle of the confluence of the Mamore with the Guapore, there is an island of rock, well adapted for the site of a fort, which would command the entrance of both rivers. Upwards of nine hundred miles is computed[457] from this situation to the mouth of the Madeira. In the space of the first two hundred the traveller encounters twelve cataracts, equally astonishing for their grandeur and extent. The attention is first arrested by that which has the same denomination as the river, and not far below the island of rock alluded to. Three of the falls are within the space of a mile and a half. The canoes advancing up the river are unloaded and conveyed in this state, including the different points, for half a mile. The Misericordia next follows, about two miles lower down, and the danger and labour of passing it depends upon the height or diminution of the waters of the river. Proceeding along another interval of the same space, the four cataracts of Reibeirao meet the astonished eye within the distance of four miles. Canoes are here for a considerable way dragged over land.

Twelve miles further is the Figueira, otherwise Araras, formed by small islands and large stones, but of no considerable extent.

Upwards of twenty miles further is the Pederneiras, where the river is thickly overspread with immense stones, obliging the cargoes of the canoes to be carried on men’s shoulders for nearly half a mile.

Descending ten miles more the Paredao is met with, where the course of the river is contracted, and its waters precipitated among rocks for a short space.

The Ties Irmaos (Three Brothers) is the next, about twenty miles further, formed by various falls, generally small, for the distance of near a mile.

Twenty-five miles lower is the Girau, where the river flows with great rapidity, separated among rocks and precipitated over five falls in a short distance. The canoes are here also carried over land.

Five miles further is the Caldeirao de Inferno, (the Infernal Cauldron,) three miles in extent, forming, in a certain situation, a most perilous whirlpool, which requires much vigilance and labour to the navigator.

Eighteen miles beyond the preceding is the fall of Morinhos, so called from three small morros, or rocks, a short distance from the western margin, covered with sarsaparilla.

Passing an interval of twelve miles the interesting fall, denominated the Salto do Theotonio is next presented for contemplation, being an accumulation of rugged rock, twenty-six feet in height, broken into four parts, dividing the waters of the Madeira into as many channels, each having the appearance of a large river. Parallel with this majestic sluice a reef of rock extends from the eastern margin almost to the western, impelling the volume of waters of three[458] channels into the fourth, the whole flowing with immense profundity and greater rapidity by this strait between the extremity of the reef and the river’s left bank. The canoes are dragged over land, with much difficulty and labour, nearly half a mile.

Five miles lower is the fall of St. Antonio, which the river passes by three currents, formed by two small stony islands. This is the first which interrupts the navigation of the canoes proceeding upwards, and is situated in the latitude of 8° 48′.

Three months is generally consumed by the navigators of this river in advancing up from this fall to that of Guajirumirim in the Guapore.

From the fall of St. Antonio to the embouchure of the Madeira there are more than thirty islands, from three to ten miles in length, almost all of them covered with superb timber; those of a smaller size are much more numerous, the largest is called Minas, which is ten miles long and three in width, and is sixty miles below the mouth of the river Marmellos.

The waters of Rio Negro and the Madeira increase the width of the Maranham to nearly four miles, and when there are parallel islands it is at some places eight, and at others much more.

About two hundred miles in a direct line, or three hundred by the course of the river, below the Madeira, is the mouth of the large river Tapajos; and two hundred miles further to the east that of the river Xingu, equal if not superior to the preceding; both coming from the district of Cuiaba, and neither with less than eight hundred miles of course.

At the confluence of the latter the Amazons inclines to the north-east for the distance of one hundred and forty miles, augmenting sensibly in width as it approaches the equator, where it discharges itself into the ocean by a mouth of from twenty-five to thirty miles.

Eighty miles below the mouth of the Xingu there is a channel called Tagypuru, in certain parts very narrow, and running towards the south-east as far as the mouth of the river Annapu, where it becomes upwards of fifteen miles in width, with many islands, and flows to the east until it enters the river Tucantins, which comes from the centre of the province of Goyaz, and at this part inclines to the north-east, increasing considerably in width, and entering the ocean by an embouchure equal to that of the Amazons, with this difference, that for some leagues up it is impregnated with salt water, whilst the other carries its volume of pure waters many leagues into the sea, perfectly fresh,[459] having acquired, by its rapidity and prodigious body, a preponderating power over the first essays of its saline opponent till the ocean buries it in fathomless depths.

On the northern margin of the Amazons, below the Rio Negro, are discharged, among other smaller streams, the Matary, which flows from some handsome lakes; the Urubu, otherwise Barururu; the Aniba, denominated sometimes Saraca; the Trombetas; the Gurupatuba; and the Annarapucu.

The lateral lands of the Amazons from Borja, where the falls and currents terminate, are flat and covered with woods. The current is always rapid, even at its greatest diminution, and the waters when drawn are of an orange colour, and at the floods are never muddy. Its bed is an archipelago, leaving, in the space of above one thousand miles, few places where the navigator can distinctly see both sides of the continent. These islands increase and decrease annually, not only in number but in size at the period of the floods, which, in parts, divide one into two, and in others accumulate many into one by filling up the channels which separated them. Here portions of land are violently torn away from the continent, there from the islands, with which either the existing ones are augmented or new ones formed. Some are of great extent, and usually covered with large trees.

The vessels which are navigated to the high Amazons are formed of trunks of trees of from forty to sixty feet in length; they are excavated into the form of canoes, with the power of fire and water, and the greatest width is given that they are susceptible of; being preserved in this state with knees, to which are nailed planks to make them higher, having around prow, and a poop with a cabin, and a rudder. They always retain the appellation of canoes, and have two masts, with round sails, in order to proceed up before an easterly wind, and descend by the impulse of the current. It is dangerous to navigate near the margins, where frequently large trees fall into the river without any wind, the current having excavated the ground upon which they stood.

The tide advances to the town of Obydos, more than five hundred miles above Macappa, computing by the bed of the river. With a strong wind it swells like the sea, but immediately the wind subsides it becomes tranquil by the power of the current, which dissipates the advancing waves in a moment.

Amongst other species of fish with which it is stored are the gorujuba, the large perahyba, doirado, pescada, and puraquez, which possesses the property of benumbing the arm of the fisherman. A species of seal, denominated by the Indians manahy, and by the Portuguese peixe-boy, (ox fish, or sea calf,) in consequence[460] of the similarity of its snout or head to that animal, is the largest, and feeds upon herbs which grow upon the margins, without going out of the river. It is viviparous and gives milk to its young like the whale, and has extremely small eyes; the flesh is like veal and of a good flavour, of which is also made sausages, called mixiras; the oil extracted from it not only serves for lights but for seasoning various eatables. The Dutch, when they had a footing in these parts, derived a lucrative branch of commerce from this fish. The pirarucu is large, and esteemed good; its tongue serves the Indians for a rasp to grate the guarana fruit; the internal parts, after being dried in the sun, form a good glue, and when reduced to powder exceed every thing for clarifying coffee. Alligators are numerous and very large; and the tortoise is very bulky and abundant, but its shell is of no value: it is amphibious, and deposits at one time more than a hundred eggs in holes which it makes in the sand at a short distance from the water, covering them over; the heat of the sun hatches them, and the young, disengaging themselves from the sand, immediately proceed to the river; many, however, in this short march, are devoured by the hawk.

The river Moju, which is spacious and deep, even as far as the tide reaches, originates in the territory of the Camecran Indians beyond the woods, which it afterwards traverses northward until it enters the bay of Guajara. In the forests or woods above mentioned, consisting of most excellent timber, and where the chestnut-tree of the country abounds, there is a great scarcity of game, caused, no doubt, by the continued huntings of the Ammanius, Pochetys, Appinages, and Norogages, tribes of Indians who dwell in the circumjacent country. The want of this resource is the alleged reason for establishments not having been formed in the fertile territory watered by this river, navigable to its centre.

The Camecran Indians are divided into five hordes, distinguished by as many pre-names, namely, Ma-camecran, Crore-camecran, Pore-camecran, Cha-camecran, and Pio-camecran, the whole being very similar in their language and customs. The Ma-camecrans live at present in a state of pacific intermixture with the inhabitants of the new arraial of St. Pedro d’Alcantara, belonging to the jurisdiction of Goyaz.

Forty miles above the mouth of the Moju there is a narrow, winding, and extensive strait, denominated Iguarapemirim, which is a channel of communication between this river and the Tucantins, thus forming an island of thirty-five miles from north to south, and twenty at its greatest width. The Acara, also considerable, affords navigation to the agriculturists upon its adjacent lands, divided into various parishes, and loses its name on entering the Moju by the[461] right, fifteen miles south of the capital. Six miles below this confluence the Moju is nearly a mile in width.

The river Guama, likewise considerable, comes from the east, traversing a fertile country partially inhabited to its source, and is discharged into the bay of Guajara, near the Moju, having received, near forty miles above, the Capim on the left.

The largest island of this province is the Joannes, otherwise Marajo, situated between the Tucantins and the Amazons, with the ocean on the north, and the strait of Tagypuru on the south. It extends ninety miles from north to south, and one hundred and twenty from east to west, is inhabited and watered by various rivers; abounding in cattle, and formerly had the title of a barony.

Its principal rivers are the Anajaz, which issues from a lake, and has a course, to the west, of fifty miles in a direct line. The Arary, something larger, flows from another lake, and discharges itself by two mouths on the eastern side the Mondin, which also runs to the east, and the Atua to the south-east: the whole are navigable with the aid of the tide.

The Nhengahybas, principally masters of this island, and Christianized in part by the Jesuit Antonio Vieyra, were expert mariners, as well as others living upon the adjacent rivers, and possessed a great number of canoes, denominated in their own language igaras, from which they derived the appellation of Igaruanas; and always proceeding in canoes, were distinguished by this name from tribes who lived in woods distant from the water. Under the denomination of Igaruanas were also comprehended the Tupinambas, the Mammayamas, the Guayanas, the Juruanas, the Pacayas, and others. They had small igaras for fishing and proceeding from one neighbouring place to another; but their war igaras were forty and fifty feet long, of one trunk, excavated with stone axes and fire, and were called maracatims, from maraca, the name of a certain instrument made of a gourd, with stones or dried legumes within; and tim, which properly signifies the nose, but translated to imply the beak of a bird, and even the prow of the vessel, in consequence of these canoes having at the head a large vara, or pole, in the form of a bowsprit, to which the maracas were suspended with small cords, clashing together with a loud rattling noise equally warlike and terrific. Their battles were fatal, and decided with the arrow, spear, and club.

The Igaruanas of the lower Amazons were esteemed the very best of rowers, when they were habituated to it from their infancy. It was they who, by the force of the oar, conducted the fleet of Captain Pedro Teyxeira from the bay of Guajara to the sight of the Andes.

With four very large rivers, the Tucantins, the Zingu, the Tapajos, and the Madeira, nature has partitioned this province into as many districts, which it is probable in a short period will form an equal number of comarcas; and, for the disembarrassment of their history and geography, we will describe them as so divided, namely:

District of Para.

The district or comarca of Para is confined on the north by the ocean, on the south by the province of Goyaz, on the east by that of Maranham, and on the west by the district of Xingutania, from which it is separated by the river Tucantins. It is four hundred and fifty miles from north to south, and two hundred from east to west, the country being flat, watered with many rivers, and possessing immense woods, demonstrating the fertility of the soil.

The before-described rivers Guama, Acara, and Maju, are the principal ones of this district, well enough provided with ports, and exceeding the others in population and agriculture. The southern part is yet occupied by wild Indians. The tribe Taramambazes, who were masters of the sea coast from the bay of Turyassu to that of Cahete, excelled all others in the art of swimming. They could swim leagues, and frequently proceeded by night to cut the cables of ships anchored at a distance, remaining an extraordinary time under water.

Belem, more generally called Para, is the capital of the province, situated upon the eastern margin of the river Tucantins in the bay of Guajara, at the[463] northern angle of the embouchure of the Guama, fronting the island of Oncas, and in a plain eighty miles from the ocean. It is an episcopal city, in a state of mediocrity, with a population now only of about twenty thousand, many having been recently swept off by the small-pox. If the access to it was better it would become more rapidly commercial. It is ornamented with many chapels, a convent of Capuchins, another of slippered Carmelites, a misericordia, and a hospital. The cathedral and the palace of the governors are handsome edifices. The streets are straight, the principal ones paved, and the houses mainly of stone. The convent of Mercenarios, who are extinct, is at present the quarters of a regiment. The ci-devant Jesuitical college is converted into a seminary, and the episcopal palace and the church serve for the misericordia. It has a tribunal da Fazenda-real, similar to the other capitals of provinces, a port admiral, an ouvidor, a Juiz do Fora, and royal professors of Latin, rhetoric, and philosophy. Since the arrival of the Royal Family in the Brazil, botanical gardens have been established in the vicinity of the few maritime towns of note; and this city can boast of one, having a variety of the most useful and best trees of the province, likewise some European trees. There is an arsenal with its chapel, and many engenhos for rice.

At the request of John V. Pope Clement XI. despatched a Bull for the creation of this bishopric in 1719, and none of the Brazilian cathedrals originated with so much splendour, and attendants of archdeacons, canons, deacons, &c. &c. It is divided into two parishes, St. Maria da Graca, and St. Anna, amongst whose inhabitants there are comparatively few negroes.

The port in which the tide rises eleven feet is considered to be diminishing in depth. Thunder is very frequent, but not diurnal, as has been stated; the showers which accompany it mitigate, in some degree, the ardent heat which universally prevails. The land breezes, as well as those from the sea, generally every evening moderate the burning rays of the sun, which may be said to be almost vertical, and refresh the atmosphere; thereby rendering this place very healthy, and tolerably free from the endemical diseases which many regions are subject to in a similar latitude. There are few insects that introduce themselves into the human frame, or that are so troublesome as in some of the other provinces. The days and nights are equal nearly the whole year. The environs of this city were formerly very unwholesome, but an evident improvement took place after the colonists began to clear away the woods, and cattle to increase.

The exportations from hence are cocoa, coffee, rice, cotton, sarsaparilla, the Maranham and Molluca clove, raw and tanned hides, pechurim or pucheri,[464] cupahyba or capivi, tapioca, gum, the urucu die, molasses, Indian rubber, castanhas, or chestnuts of Maranham, timber, &c. These articles were formerly sent to Maranham, and the trade with this place was carried on through the medium of coasting vessels; but the honourable ambition and activity of the English merchant, which lead him to every corner of the globe for the purposes of commerce, did not allow this place long to escape his observation, and one or two establishments were formed here soon after the arrival of the Royal Family, which have increased to five or six. The Confiance British sloop of war first navigated up to the town, demonstrating that vessels, not drawing more water, might accomplish the same object; and a house at Glasgow subsequently employed two vessels of much larger burthen in the trade of this city, for whose present commerce, however, vessels of a smaller class are better adapted. The spontaneous productions, abundant fertility, and extent of the province, fully justify the expectation of its becoming a very considerable place; and more particularly so from the probability of its being, at no distant period, the only mart for the increasing productions of the provinces of Goyaz and Matto-grosso.

Its cottons have some time held a rank in the British market and obtained a price not far short of the Bahia cottons; the communication is principally with Liverpool, and from ten to fifteen small brigs proceed from thence to Para annually with English manufactures, and return with produce. One or two vessels also from London have recently maintained with it a regular intercourse.

The great extent of country comprising the province of Para, as well as the tributary provinces of Solimoes and Guianna, coming mainly under the jurisdiction of its governors, have induced the government generally to appoint individuals of distinguished families and noble birth to this situation. The present governor of this very important district, extending almost to the Oronocos, is the Conde de Villa Flora. Two miles to the north-east is situated a chapel of Our Lady of Nazareth, frequently visited by the inhabitants of this city.

Para was the first town in the Brazil that adopted the new constitution of Portugal, which event, highly to its honour, was brought about without any bloodshed, in the beginning of January, 1821.

Braganca, formerly Cayte, and the capital of a small capitania so called, is one of the best and most ancient towns of the province, and is ornamented with some hermitages. It is well situated on the left margin of the river from which it derived its primitive name, and is about twenty miles from the ocean, and near one hundred to the east-north-east of the capital, and seventy to the east-south-east of Point Tigioca. An extensive bridge traverses a swamp, or marsh, and[465] divides it into two parts; the northern division was at first only inhabited by Indians. It is a port or calling place for the coasting-vessels that navigate from Maranham to Para. Its church is dedicated to St. Joam Baptista.

Twenty-five miles to the east-south-east of Braganca, and the same distance from the sea, is the parish of St. Joze de Cerzedello, upon the right margin of a small river. Thirty miles to the south-south-west of Braganca, and eighty to the east of the capital, is the small town of Ourem, upon the right bank of the Guama. It is ornamented with a church dedicated to the Espirito Santo, and its inhabitants cultivate the necessaries of life.

Vigia, an ancient town, and for some time considerable and flourishing whilst the depository of a great quantity of cocoa and coffee, brought thither from the adjacent country, is fifty miles north-north-east of the capital, upon the margin of the Para or Tucantins. The Jesuits had a college here, and the Mercenaries an entertaining-house. Its primitive and proper name is St. Jorge dos Alamos. The church is dedicated to Our Lady of Nazareth, and the inhabitants are agriculturists and fishermen.

Cintra is a small town, fifty miles west-north-west of Braganca, seventy north-east of Para, and fifteen east of Villa Nova, pleasantly situated at the mouth of the river Maracana, of which it formerly had the name. Its surrounding country is appropriated to various branches of agriculture; the church is dedicated to the Archangel St. Miguel, and its inhabitants, who are diminishing, cultivate little more than the necessaries of life.

In the vicinity, and north-east of Cintra, is the aldeia of Salinas, with some regularity, and in a very agreeable district, having a place of worship dedicated to Nossa Senhora do Socorro.

Collares, formerly a middling town, and well supplied, is forty miles north-north-east of the capital, upon an island six miles in length from north to south, with proportionable width, and separated from the continent by a narrow strait. It has only one church of the Lady of Rozario, and its environs are partially appropriated to the production of coffee, cocoa, and the necessaries of life common to the country.

Twelve miles south-south-east of Point Tigioca, and sixty north-east of the capital, is Villa Nova d’el Rey, upon the margin, and a very little above the embouchure of the Curuca, at the bottom of a bay. Its inhabitants, for the main part Indians, are fishermen, and cultivators of mandioca, Indian corn, rice, cocoa, and coffee, which do not remove them from a state of poverty,[466] although the soil is of great fertility, and worthy of a more active and industrious population. It has a church of Our Lady of Rozario.

Gurupy, advantageously situated upon the banks of the bay of the same name, was created a town in 1671, and became for some time rather flourishing, whilst the capital of a small Capitania, and visited by the coasting-vessels from Maranham to Para. Its anchorage-place has diminished in depth, and agriculture is declining from the want of whites as well as Africans.

Bayao, a small Indian town, with some whites on the eastern margin of the Tucantins, and thirty-five miles above Cameta, is well supplied with fish, and the rendezvous of canoes from Goyaz. It has a church of St. Antonio, and the inhabitants cultivate cocoa, coffee, cotton, rice, mandioca, divers fruits, and hortulans. Its very advantageous situation, and the wide field for agricultural improvement, promise it a considerable augmentation.

Thirty-five miles further, upon the same margin of the Tucantins, and eighteen below the fort of Alcobaca, is the aldeia of Pederneira, inhabited by christianized Indians, who cultivate the same articles as the preceding town. Here the river begins to be thickly strewed with islands to the capital. In this district there is yet the small town of Conde upon the margin of the Tucantins, twenty miles to the south-west of Para; also Beja, a place of the same order, and seven miles south of Conde; and Abayte, an insignificant place, eight miles south of Beja; all three are upon an island formed by the rivers Tucantins, Muju, and Igarape Mirim, whose territory is appropriated to several branches of agriculture.

Arcos, situated upon the great bay of Turyvassu, is an aboriginal town, and the insufficiency of its inhabitants retards the progress of agriculture, to which its fertile soil is so favourable. Upon this coast, also, are the parishes of St. Joze de Piria, and Vizeu, inhabited by Indians; and in the adjacent lands of the river Guamma are those of Caraparu, Bujaru, Anhangapy, Irituya, St. Miguel da Cachoeira, and St. Domingos, in the angle of the mouth of the river Capim.

District of Xingutania.

This district is of a quadrangular form, and is bounded on the north by the river Amazons, on the west by the river Xingu, which affords it the name, and separates it from Tapajonia; on the south by the district of Tapiraquia, and on the east by the Tucantins. It is a portion of the province yet little known, and[467] almost wholly inhabited by the posterity of the Aborigines, divided into various nations. The most northern tribes have some intercourse with the Christians of the povaoçoes, situated upon the margins of the rivers which limit the district, and various individuals of them have embraced Christianity. The lands which have been cultivated are fertile, and appropriated to a great variety of hortulans, edible roots, Indian corn, rice, feijao, tobacco, cotton, the sugar cane, and all the fruit trees of the climate.

The cocoa shrub, or tree, grows spontaneously in various situations. In the vicinities of the rivers the aspect of the woods is rendered agreeable by the diversity and thickness of the trees. They are stored with birds and game, which are alike the resource of the indolent savages and the Christians, who hitherto have not introduced the breed of cattle.

Little is yet known relative to the mineralogy of this province, nor of the genius or customs of the central and southern hordes of the natives. A great number of rivers, many of crystaline waters, flow from the centre of this comarca into those which mainly surround it.

The Annapu traverses the country from south to north, and discharges itself in front of the island of Marajo by various mouths; the principal one is spacious, and forms a great bay within. After many days’ voyage up this river, falls are met with, and its bed is strewed with large stones. In the woods which border it there are abundance of clove-trees of the country.

The Pacajaz, properly Pacaya, has an extensive course through a stony bed, and over many considerable falls, at certain distances. Four days’ voyage is required to arrive at the bar of the great river Iriuanna, which unites it on the eastern bank, and a few leagues above the embouchure is the entrance of the channel, which connects it with the Annapu. It runs east of the Annapu, and takes the name of a nation which occupies its adjacent territory, where there is great abundance of clove-trees.

The river Jacundaz, or Hyacunda, is very large, affording an extensive navigation, and discharges itself east of the Pacaya. The Araticu empties itself east of the Hyacunda by a wide channel, which bathes the island of Marago, on the south.

The Areas, which runs into the Amazons, near the northern entrance of the Tagypuru Strait, is navigable for a considerable distance, traversing woods, growing upon extensive plains, and abounding with a variety of game.

The Tacanhunas, so denominated from the tribe of Indians whose territory it irrigates, enters the Tucantins, near the Itaboca.

Villa Vicoza, originally called Cameta, and one of the most ancient towns of the province, is flourishing, and well situated upon the left margin of the Tucantins, ninety miles south-west of the capital, and is a port for the canoes navigating towards Goyaz and the High Maranham, as well as a depository for various productions cultivated within its fertile district. It has a church dedicated to St. Joam Baptista, and was for some time the capital of a small capitania known by the same name. The Tucantins is here ten miles in width, being an archipelago. Fifteen miles to the north-east, which is the direction it takes from this town to the ocean, is the island of Ararahy, or Aragacy, ten miles in length, narrow and flat, dividing the river into two currents, the eastern one improperly called the bay of Marapata, and the western the bay of Limoeira.

A short distance from the southern point of the island of Ararahy, on the eastern bank of the Tucantins, is the southern entrance of the before-mentioned Igarape Mirim, (Narrow Strait,) and in front of it, on the opposite margin, another, called the Furo do Japim, which is extensive, and flows into the large channel that waters the southern coast of Marajo.

Eighty miles, by water, above Villavicoza, upon the same margin of the Tucantins, is the fort of Alcobaca, for the purpose of registering the canoes from Goyaz; and three miles further there is another, denominated Arroyos, for the same object: here the tide is occasionally perceptible.

Gurupu is a small town, with a church of St. Antonio upon the banks of the Amazons, twenty-five miles below the mouth of the Zingu. Some earthen ware is here made, and tiles and bricks are exported to different parts, constituting a branch of its commerce, besides cocoa and cloves. From hence is distinguished, far to the north, the serra of Velha, almost always enveloped in mist, and beyond it the serra of Paru, upon whose summits the electric fluid finds a vehicle in airy vapour, giving them additional grandeur by the vibrating thunder-peels that strike upon the distant ear. They are both of considerable altitude, and the only mountains which the navigator sees from Para to the city of Borja.

Melgaco, a town in a state of mediocrity, abounding with fish, is situated upon the western side of lake Annapu, and watered by the river of that name, fifteen miles above its embouchure. Its church is dedicated to St. Michael, and the inhabitants cultivate vegetables, grain, &c. peculiar to the country, and extract many articles of commerce from the woods.

Portel, a small town, is situated on the eastern side of the lake Annapu,[469] near the embouchure of the channel that connects it with the river Pacaya, seven miles south of Melgaco. It has a church of St. Miguel, and the inhabitants, almost all Indians, are fishermen, hunters, and agriculturists.

Oeyras is a small town, in a sandy situation, upon the margin and five miles above the mouth of the Araticu, forty miles north east of Villavicoza and thirty-five east of Melgaco. It has a church of Assumpçao, and its people are composed of Indians of various nations, who cultivate the most common necessaries, and indulge in their favourite habits of hunting and fishing.

Between the last river and the Panauha originated the Aldeia dos Bocas, so denominated from the Combocas, who were its first inhabitants, and from whom also the Bahia dos Bocas derived its name, being a large bay, extending westward to the bar of the Panauha, that disembogues near the southern entrance of the Tagypuru Strait.

Porto de Moz is a middling and well supplied town, upon the eastern margin of the Xingu, (which is here very wide,) twelve miles from the Amazons and the port of canoes that navigate these rivers. It has a church dedicated to St. Braz, and the inhabitants are Indian farmers, and collect some exports.

Veyros is a small town, well situated upon the Xingu, fifty miles from Porto de Moz, near the mouth of a small current, having a church of St. John Baptista, and Indian inhabitants of various nations, who produce a sufficiency of common necessaries, and some articles of trade.

Pombal is another Indian town, and of the same class as the preceding, but only requiring the addition of a certain number of whites and negroes to render it considerable and flourishing, in consequence of the uncommon fertility of its soil, and the valuable productions with which nature has enriched it, having, besides, great facility of exportation. It is eighteen miles above Veyros, upon the Xingu, which supplies it abundantly with fish.

The island of Marajo, in consequence of its proximity, may be considered as forming a part of this district. Its principal povoaçoes are the following:—

Monforte, ci-devant Villa de Joannes, a middling town, and well situated upon the bay of Marajo, has a church of Nossa Senhora do Rozario, and is nearly fifty miles north of Para. A Juiz de Fora presides over the senate, and it may be regarded as the capital of the island.

Moncaraz, originally Cayha, is a small town, with a church of St. Francisco d’Assiz, and ten miles south of Monforte, at the embouchure of a small river in front of Collares.

Salvaterra is an insignificant place, but well situated upon the southern angle[470] of the month of the Mondin, eight miles north of Monforte, and has a church of the Lady of Conceiçao.

Soyre, a villota, or small village, is situated upon the northern batik of the Mondin, a few miles above Salvaterra, with a church of Menino Deus.

Chaves is a small town upon the northern coast, fronting Robordello, and flourished whilst a fishery existed, which was there established by a company from Para.

To the west of Chaves is the parish of Condexa, also a maritime povoaçao, refreshed with fine breezes, but possessing nothing remarkable.

In this island are also the parishes of Porto Salvo, at the mouth of the river Marajo Assu, in front of the town of Conde, Ponte de Pedra, more to the north, and Villar, a little further in the same direction. They are inhabited by Indians, who cultivate the provisions of the climate, and practise hunting and fishing.

District of Tapajonia.

This district is confined on the north by the Amazons; on the south by the district of Arinos; on the west by that of Mundrucania, from which it is separated by the Tapajos, the river that affords the district its name; and on the east by Xingutania. It is three hundred and fifty miles in length from north to south, and about two hundred of medium width.

The Xingu being the only one of the larger class of rivers in the Brazil that has not been navigated to its heads, no authentic account is furnished of the aspect of the eastern part of this district from a certain situation upwards.

The navigators of the Tapagos have observed numerous small hills and some mountains at a considerable distance from the Amazons, in whose vicinity the lands are flat, and no considerable river flows from this district into the first, which is itself wide, and full of islands of various sizes, overspread with woods.

The river Zingu, forming the eastern limit of this district, is very wide, and is only found, after eight days’ voyage, to have any falls, demonstrating the gradual elevation of the country towards the interior. The first considerable confluent joining it on the Western side is the Guiriri, which rises in the centre of the district of Arinos: a good distance below this confluence it describes two large and opposite semicircular windings, flowing amongst small eminences.

No large river runs from this district to the Amazons, excepting the Curua, which has an extensive course, and passes the considerable lake of the same name, where it is augmented by the waters of several streams that are there discharged.[471] Its mouth is thirty miles below the Tapajos, and canoes advance up as far as the said lake, whose margins abound in different sorts of birds, that subsist on shell fish. The Uruara, after a short course, is discharged by two mouths below the Curua.

The Guajara, also of short extent, traverses a very flat territory, where it is divided into various channels, emptying itself by six mouths, generally small, below the Uruara.

The Uraucu, otherwise Hyuraucu, having a communication with the Guajara, enters the Amazons above the Zingu, with which it also communicates in three places.

It is not ascertained yet whether there are mines of any ores in the southern part of this district.

Various aboriginal nations, it is much to be regretted, hitherto occupy this fine district, even to the immediate vicinity of the Portuguese establishments, which do not extend beyond the margins of the rivers that limit it, and whose adjacent territories are thickly covered with majestic woods of trees, whose stems are of immense span and height, the soil being of admirable substance and fertility, and well suited to every branch of agriculture. Nature here produces spontaneously the clove, cupahyba, (or capivi,) pechurim, and cocoa trees, with sarsaparilla, ipecacuanha, jalap, and other medicinal drugs. Amongst other nations who possessed the adjacent lands of the Tapajos, and were dispersed by the Mundrucus, were the Hyauains, of whom nothing is known at the present day.

Souzel is a middling town, situated in the skirts of a mount, bordering the Zingu, which is the best supplier of water to its inhabitants, mostly Indians, who are occupied in hunting, fishing, and the cultivation of different articles. It is one hundred and ten miles distant from the Amazons, has an earthenware manufactory, and may become more considerable with the increase of whites, and when the navigation of the river is extended to the districts of Sappiraquia and Arinos.

Santarem, a large and flourishing town, situated within the embouchure of the river Tapajos, is the port or calling-place of canoes that navigate towards Matto-Grosso and the high Amazons, and also the depository of a great quantity of cocoa, whose trees have been carefully cultivated in the surrounding-country, the soil being well adapted for them.

Its beginning was an aldeia with the name of the river, and founded by the Jesuits for the habitation of an Indian horde. It has a church of Nossa Senhora[472] da Conceiçao, and many houses of one story. The fort, which first defended it against the Indians, is now occupied by a detachment for registering the canoes that ascend and descend both rivers. The inhabitants, principally whites, do not yet breed many cattle.

Alter do Cham, originally Hybirarybe, is yet a small town, but advantageously situated upon a lake, near the Tapajos, (with which it communicates,) almost in the skirts of a rock, rising pyramidically to a considerable height, and ten miles south of Santaram. Its inhabitants are principally Indians, and, besides the usual necessaries, cultivate some excellent cocoa; but hunting and fishing are their favourite pursuits.

Aveyro, situated upon the margin of the Tapajos, has the title of a town, but is only an inferior village, its houses being thatched with straw, and disposed without regularity, in a beautiful situation. The inhabitants are Indians, and incapable of improving it; consequently the advantages of being upon a navigable river, and in the midst of a rich and fertile soil, will not be available until it obtains a supply of white people. It is about sixty miles distant from Alter do Cham.

District of Mundrucania.

This district, limited on the south by that of Juruenna, has on the north the river Amazons, on the west the river Madeira, and on the east the river Tapajos. Its length from north to south, on the eastern side, is near three hundred miles, and its medium width two hundred. Along the banks of the rivers which limit it, the country is mainly swampy, with extensive morasses, inhabited by a profusion of birds, drawn thither by the shell fish. The intervals and the interior are covered with widely-extending woods, possessing trees of every magnitude. The banks of the rivers and lakes afford a species of cane, upon which the ox-fish and tortoise feed. In some parts the granite-stone is common; but there are no accounts of ore having been discovered any where in this district.

Amongst other small rivers which run into the Madeira, are the Anhangating, the mouth of which is in 5° 30′; the Mataura, which empties itself twenty miles lower down, and communicates with the Canoma in the interior of the district; and the Marmellos, originally Araxia, whose mouth is seven miles above the entrance to the lake Marucutuba.

The interior of the district is watered by the rivers Canoma, Abacachy, Apiuquiribo, Mauhe-Guassu, Mauhe-Mirim, Massary, Andira, Tuppynambarana, all of which run into a branch of the Madeira, which, under the name of Canoma,[473] frequently denominated the Furo, or fury of the Tuppynambaranas, describes many windings, traversing some lakes until it enters the Amazons by a spacious embouchure, called the river Mauhes, which is one hundred and fifty miles below the principal mouth of the Madeira.

The Mauhes, so called from the Mauhe nation inhabiting its banks, has acquired also the appellation of the river of the Nambaranas, derived from a village or aldeia of the Tuppynambas, which existed near the eastern margins of the lake Uaycurapa, and thirty miles above its mouth.

In the space of forty miles from the Furo dos Tuppynambaranas to the town of Borbai there are the following lakes: Annamaha, Guarybas, Cauhintu, Taboca, Frechal, Macacos, and Jatuaranna, all in the proximity of the river, into which their superfluous waters are discharged. Forty miles above the said town is the entrance to the lake Mattary, and beyond it that of the lake Murucutuba.

Between the Furo dos Tuppynambaranas and the mouth of the Madeira, is the outlet of the lake Massurany. The domestic animals of this district are at present very inconsiderable; but the wild ones peculiar to the other comarcas are met with in much greater numbers, in consequence of the gun not having been yet so much introduced. With the exception of some portions of territory upon the banks of the rivers which encompass this district, the whole is in the power of various savage tribes, of whom, we are best acquainted with the Jummas, the Mauhes, the Pammas, the Parintintins, the Muras, the Andiras, the Araras, and the Mundrucus, from which latter the district borrows its name. Each has its peculiar idiom, and the whole are divided into hordes; of which some wander about the woods and forests without any fixed residence: others are established in aldeias, where they intermix with the Christians, and have learned to cultivate various necessaries of life. So far are some of them influenced by the power of example, that they begin to cover, in part, their naked bodies; and many demonstrate their knowledge of the advantage of friendship with the Christians, by subduing their native ferocity into a tractable observance of the rules of the white settlers.

The bow is the weapon common to the male sex, of whatever age they may be: many possess another still more fatal, denominated esgaravatana; it is a reed of chosen wood, with ten to twelve palms of length, formed of two pieces glued together with wax, and firmly bound with thongs made of the bark of plants, whose perfect and equally round orifice has eight lines of diameter, and serves for the envenomed arrows, which are discharged by a puff of the breath.[474] These arrows are not more than a span, and have at the posterior extremity a ball of cotton, equal to the eighth part of the esgaravatana. When they wish to discharge it, (which is said to be very certain, and as swift as the shot of a carbine,) the point is dipped in a thick fluid, composed of the juices of various poisonous plants. Some say that sugar is the only antidote, others that salt will destroy its fatal effects, and that the wound is not mortal if the poison was dry on contaminating the blood; and it is on this account that they carry the venom in a cocoa-nut shell, or gourd, in order to introduce the arrow into it at the moment of discharge. Condamine says, that on wounding a fowl with an arrow that had been envenomed twelve months previously with a composition made by the Ticunas of Peru, it only lived about eight minutes; but there was probably some ingredient in this poison that the Indians we have been speaking of are unacquainted with.

The Araras, who are the most celebrated for making ornaments of feathers, form a black circle round the mouth, and perforate the cartilage of the nose, through which they put a small piece of wood, trimmed with plumes of various colours.

The Parintintins distend the ears very much with round targets, and blacken the upper lip into a half moon form, conceiving that their consequence is thus augmented.

The Muras, perhaps the most numerous among those who have had intercourse with the Portuguese, are the most backward in adopting any species of covering for their bodies, the main portion of both sexes yet appearing in a state of absolute nudity. The men not only ornament their arms and legs, but likewise perforate the nose, ears, and lips, and attach to them pendants of shells, the teeth of the boar, and of other wild quadrupeds. Many of them design various figures upon the skin, not without considerable suffering and much time; others disguise the body with dies, and even with clay and loam, adopting this mode of deforming themselves not so much perhaps with an idea of giving beauty to their persons as that they may thus assume an imposing air, in order to deter their enemies by their uncouth appearance. The women are much attached to their offspring whilst little, and row in the canoes equally with the men, of whom a great many have beards. The superiors have many wives; others but one: they separate from them, however, at their caprice or discretion, and take others. Tuxauha is the title given to the chiefs of the Mura tribe.

The Mundrucus, whose custom is to paint the body black with the die of[475] Jenipapo, are numerous and powerful warriors, and the dread of all the other nations, who give them the appellation of Payquice, which signifies cut off the head, in consequence of their savage custom of cutting off the heads of all their enemies who fall into their power; and they know how to embalm them in such a manner that they retain for many years the same aspect they had when severed from the body. They ornament their rude and miserable cabanas with these horrible trophies: he that can exhibit ten is eligible to the rank of chief of the horde. They are well acquainted with the virtues of various vegetables, with which they cure some dangerous diseases.

Almost all the Mundrucana tribes are at the present time allies of the Portuguese, and some are Christianized. The brutal inhumanity at present of those who rove in the woods, not giving quarter either to age or sex, has compelled the principal part of the other nations to seek for refuge near the povoaçoes of the Portuguese, under whose protection they live secure from the attacks of their ferocious enemy.

Villa Franca, originally Camaru, is a middling town, with some regularity, upon a lake, which communicates with the Amazons and with the Tapajos, from whose margin it is not far distant. It is fifteen miles south-west of Santarem. The church is dedicated to the Assumpçao of Nossa Senhora; and the inhabitants are mostly Indians, cultivating cocoa besides the necessaries of life.

Villanova da Raynha is a town of a similar kind, near the mouth of the Mauhes, in an advantageous situation for increasing. Almost all its inhabitants are Mauhe Indians, who produce the best guarana, which is a composition made from the fruit of a shrub so called, and common in their territory. After being pounded, it is made into rolls like chocolate, and becomes quite hard: they attribute various beneficial effects to the use of it; the most certain, however, is driving away sleep!

Borba is a small town, with wretched houses, well situated upon elevated ground on the right margin of the Madeira, eighty miles from the Amazons and forty above the Furo dos Tuppynambaranas, and is a calling-place for those who navigate towards Matto-Grosso. The church is of St. Antonio, and its population is descended from the aborigines of various nations, with a few Europeans and Mesticos, also some negroes. Besides the common productions they cultivate some tobacco and cocoa; and, with the fishing for the tortoise, they supply the deficiency of cattle, which are at present very few.

This town had its commencement upon the river Jamary, from whence it was removed to the mouth of the Giparanna, afterwards to the site of Pancau, or[476] Paraxiau, and ultimately to its present situation, where it was in the year 1756, when King Joseph gave it the title of town. It always took the name of the situation where it stood, its various removals being caused by the persecutions which the inhabitants experienced from the Mura tribe.

Contiguous to this town there is a populous aldeia of unchristianized Muras, the descendants of those who formerly annoyed the first inhabitants: they have taken refuge here from the attacks of the Mundrucus.

Villaboim, yet very small, upon the left bank of the Tapajos, and eighteen miles from the Amazons, is a town well situated: its soil being susceptible of various lucrative branches of agriculture, affords a probability of its future augmentation. The inhabitants are Indians, and the church is dedicated to St. Ignacio.

Pinhel, a small town, and well situated upon the margin of the Tapajos, fifteen miles above Villaboim, has a church dedicated to St. Joze. Its dwellers, almost all Indians, cultivate what they deem necessary, and pursue hunting and shooting, and collect some of the objects of trade, which nature has produced in its fertile vicinity.

Villanova de Santa Cruz, ten miles above Pinhel and almost in front of Aveyro, is yet insignificant. The houses which form it are generally very miserable, and its Mundrucanan inhabitants are hunters, fishermen, and cultivators only of some necessaries, as is the case with all the places of this district. The increase of Europeans, however, would, with adequate industry, render its environs abundantly productive in every article of agriculture, the richness of the soil promising the utmost success.

At a considerable distance above Villa Nova de St. Cruz, upon the western margin of the Tapajos, there is an aldeia inhabited by another horde of Mundrucus, yet unchristianized, but having their plantations of Indian corn; while some are already partially clothed, and the women wear a species of dress also of cotton, called a sayote.

A catechist, a blacksmith, a carpenter, acquainted with agriculture, and a woman-weaver are deemed sufficient to commence a povoaçao in this fertile country, which, with industry, will doubtless soon become flourishing and useful to the state.

The province of Solimoes, and the western part of Guianna, with the western portion of Mundrucania, form a government, subordinate to Grand Para. The eastern part of Guianna is immediately under the jurisdiction of Para. The first Portuguese who proceeded up the Amazons, from the mouth of Rio Negro, gave it the name of Solimoes, by which it is yet designated; not in allusion to the venoms with which the Indians of these latitudes, as well as those of the low Amazons, infected their arrows, nor to the tribes inhabiting the banks of Rio Negro, who used the same weapon, but to the nation denominated Soriman, and, by corruption, Solimao and Solimoes.

The province of Solimoes is bounded on the north by the river of the same name, or rather the Amazons; on the west by the Hyabary, which separates it from the Spanish dominions; on the south by the same dominions, the divisionary line between the two territories having been adjusted by the Portuguese and Spanish commissioners in the year 1751, and ratified in 1757; and on the east by the Madeira.

It is two hundred and fifty miles on the eastern side, from north to south, nearly six hundred miles from east to west, and lies between 3° 23′ and 7° 30′ south latitude. It is a country but little known excepting along the Madeira, and in the vicinity of the Amazons: it is occupied by numerous Indian nations, speaking divers idioms, and watered by many large and navigable rivers. It produces all the quadrupeds, reptiles, and birds of the provinces, eastward of the river Madeira; a vast variety of plants and trees known to be of great utility, amongst which are the clove, cupahyba, or capivi, cocoa, elastic gum, puchery, and cotton. It is well known also that the soil is highly adapted to the culture of Indian corn, rice, legumes, the cane, tobacco, mandioco, coffee,[478] bahunilha, or vanilla, inhumes, (growing like potatoes,) potatoes, and a variety of fruits: however, these articles will not prosper equally in all parts. Domestic cattle are universally in small numbers, and their augmentation depends upon the Christian portion of population, which, at present, is very inconsiderable. Nothing satisfactory is known of the mineralogy of the province; but it appears natural that the minerals peculiar to the adjoining provinces should also be found here.

The five following large rivers, Hyutahy, Hyurba, Teffe, Coary, and Puru, which traverse the province from south to north, with the Madeira and Hyabary, divide it into six districts of unequal size, and almost of the same length from north to south: each one takes the name of the river that serves for its western limit. We will describe the above districts according to the following order:—

The principal povoaçoes, or towns, of these districts, four having only one each, another two, and the last three, were founded by the Slippered Carmalites. Condamine, the French writer, says, “Toute la partie découverte des bords de Rio Negro est peuple de missions Portugaises, des mêmes religieux du Mont Carmel que nous avions rencontres en descendant l’Amazone, depuis que nous avions laisse les missions Espagnoles.”

District of Puru.

Puru, which lies between the Madeira, and the river from which it derives its name, has been more explored than any of the contiguous districts, and enjoys the best situation for commerce. From its centre various other considerable rivers flow into the three which form its confines. The Capanna and the Uhautas are the largest amongst those which run to the Madeira.

The Capanna empties itself one hundred and forty miles above the town of Borba, after having traversed a considerable lake, which receives divers small streams, and from whence there is also an outlet to the river Puru. Its environs are inhabited by the Catauixi and Itatapriya Indians, who are great hunters and fishers.

The Uhautas, which has a course of fifty miles, discharges itself fifteen miles from Borba, and originates in a lake of the same name, which is vast and studded with islands that are overspread with the clove-tree.

From this lake, which is the receptacle of various small streams, two other[479] rivers issue and flow to the Amazons; one of them enters it eight miles above the mouth of the Madeira, and the other, called Paratary, one hundred miles further to the west. Eighteen miles below the principal mouth of the Rio Negro is the lake d’El Rey, near the southern margin of the Amazons. The Purupuru Indians, who inhabit the central part of the country, give their chief the name of Maranuxauha.

The margins of the Amazons and the Rio Negro, upwards, are infested with a small musquito, called pium, whose painful sting leaves a red mark, accompanied with insufferable itching and a disposition to ulcerate. One hundred and sixty miles is about the width of this district on the northern side.

Cratto, yet a small town, but well situated upon the margin of the Madeira, a considerable distance above Borba, has a church dedicated to St. Joam Baptista, and its inhabitants are generally Indians and Mesticoes, who collect some cocoa, cloves, and sarsaparilla, with provisions of the first necessity. They catch great numbers of the tortoise at the beach of Tamandoa, which they keep in an enclosure in the water. It is one of the ports for canoes coming from Matto-Grosso, and many circumstances concur in warranting the prediction that it will become one of the principal towns of Solimoes.

District of Coary.

This district extends between the river from which it takes its name and the principal arm of the Puru, with one hundred and twenty miles of width on the northern part. The Muras possess the environs of the Amazons; the Purupurus, and the Catauixis, the centre of the country, with other uncivilized nations. Three channels from the Puru irrigate a portion of the eastern part of this comarca in the proximity of the Amazons;—the Cochiuara which discharges itself twenty-five miles from the mouth of its superior; the Coyuanna, twenty miles above the preceding; and the Arupanna, more to the westward. The first gives also its name to this portion of the district; the margins of the whole afford cocoa, sarsaparilla, and the oil of capivi.

Alvellos, a small town, is situated upon a large bay, fifteen miles above the mouth of the Coary, of which it formerly had the name. Its inhabitants, for the main part descendants of the Uamanys, Sorimoes, Catauyseys, Jumas, Irijus, Cuchiuaras, and Uayupes, collect cloves, cocoa, capivi, and sarsaparilla, and make butter from the eggs of the Tortoise, which are very numerous; and they are also employed in making earthenware, mats, and in weaving cotton cloth. The ants are here particularly destructive.

This town was commenced upon the eastern margin and twenty-five miles above the month of the river Paratary, from whence the Padre, Frey Joze da Magdalena, removed it to the same side of the Guanama, which enters the northern side of the Amazons, below the eastern arm of the Hyapura: from hence the Padre, Frey Antonio de Miranda, removed it to the site of Guarayatyba, more to the eastward upon the margin of the Amazons, eight miles below the Puru, from whence it was finally removed by Frey Mauricio Moreyra to its present situation.

The islands with which the Amazons in this part is studded, were for some time inhabited by Cambeva, otherwise Omagoa Indians—names which signify flat heads, from the custom which the mothers had of compressing their children’s heads between two boards, thus distinguishing them from other nations. This custom ceasing, their descendants are at the present day unknown.

District of Teffe.

This comarca, situated between the river from which it is named, and the Coary, that separates it from the preceding one, is nearly ninety miles in width along the Amazons. The two first rivers are very considerable; but their origins are not yet ascertained, nor the number and names of their principal confluents, which issue from the centre of the district. All accounts are equally silent as to any mountains existing in the interior, while the lands in the vicinity of the Amazons, although flat, are never inundated by the floods, which overflow a considerable portion of its northern margin, in consequence of being lower.

The Coary discharges itself into a bay of the Amazons, almost seven miles in width, and near it the Urucuparana, and the Urauba, or Cuanu, both of short navigation.

Forty miles above, the river Catua enters the Amazons, and twenty more, westward, the Cayama, its margins abounding with sarsaparilla; and, further on, the small river Giticaparana, a name implying the river of potatoes. Its mouth is fifteen miles below the Teffe. From the number of Christians being so small, and the only persons who clear away any of the woods for the purposes of agriculture, the country exhibits the same aspect to the navigators of the Amazons at this day that was presented to its first discoverers. The majestic size of various kinds of trees demonstrates the fecundity and substantial nature of the soil.

Ega, a middling town, well situated upon the right bank of the Teffe, is[481] eight miles from the Amazons, with a church dedicated to St. Thereza de Jezus. Almost all its inhabitants are pure Indians, descended from the Uayupys, Sorimoes, Coretus, Cocurunas, Jumas, Hyupiuhas, Tamuanas, and Achouaris, and cultivate mandioca, feijao, rice, Indian corn, hortulans, and fruits, in sufficient quantities for their subsistence; they gather honey, and collect some cocoa, cloves, and pechurim, from the proceeds of which they supply themselves with iron tools, baize, and other manufactures for dresses. They all pursue hunting and fishing. The women spin cotton, of which they manufacture nets and coarse cloths. This town was begun in the island of Veados, which is below the mouth of the river Hyurba, from whence Frey Andre da Costa removed it to the situation where it now exists.

District of Hyurba.

This district is confined on the north by the Amazons; on the west by the river from which it derives its name; on the south by the Spanish dominions; and on the east by the river Teffe, which separates it from the comarca of that name. It has eighty miles of width on the northern part, and abounds in timber. The rivers are stored with the same fish as the Amazons, and the woods with a great variety of birds and game, as well as formidable wild beasts, that wage war with the central Indians, of whom little more is known than the names.

Nogueyra, a middling town, pleasantly situated upon the left of the river Teffe, almost in front of Ega, is ten miles from the Amazons and ornamented with a church of Nossa Senhora do Rozario. The houses are intermixed with orange trees, and the streets, being full of them, have the appearance of groves. Its inhabitants are principally Indians of divers nations, and Mesticos, respiring a fresh and salubrious atmosphere. They are fond of fishing, collect abundance of the necessaries of life peculiar to the country, some articles of exportation, and possess cattle. The first site of this town was more to the west, on the southern bank of the Amazons, for the habitation of a numerous assemblage of Indians, namely, Jumas, Ambuas, Cirus, Catauixis, Uayupes, Hyauhauhays, and Mariaranas, brought together by the Carmalite priests. From that situation it was removed to Point Parauary, five miles higher upon the same side of the river, where Condamine found it with the name of that point in 1743, and from whence the priest, Frey Joze de Santa Thereza Ribeyro removed it, in the year 1753, to the place where we have stated it to be situated.

Alvarens, originally and at times yet called Cahissara, is a small town,[482] situated upon a lake, near the margin of the Amazons, eighteen miles above the river Teffe. Its church is dedicated to St. Joaquim. The population is an accumulation of various tribes of Indians, with many Mesticos, who, besides absolute necessaries, cultivate some cocoa and sarsaparilla, but are much incommoded by the pium musquito, and alike annoyed by the voracity of the ants. Its first situation was upon the channel connecting the Hyapura with the lake Amana, two days’ voyage from the Amazons. The Ambuas and Uaruecocas were then its inhabitants; it was removed from thence to its present site, by one Giraldo Gonsalves, in 1758. In Nogueyra there is a creek or outlet, opened by nature, by which canoes, &c. proceed to Alvarens when the rivers are overflowed.

District of Hyutahy.

This district is confined by the Amazons on the north; by the river of its name on the west; by the Spanish possessions on the south; and by the district of Hyurba on the east: its width along the Amazons is about sixty miles. The middle and southern parts are not better known than the same portions of the surrounding districts, in consequence of being in the power of various untamed Indian tribes, such as the Marauhas, Catuquinas, Urubus, Cauaxis, Uacarauhas, Gemias, Toquedas, Maturuas, Chibaras, Buges, and Apenaris, with some others, who pass the rivers into the adjoining districts, and use the esgaravatana, bow and arrow, and envenomed lance, when they go to war.

It remains in a state of uncertainty whether the rivers Hyurba, upwards of six hundred yards in width at its mouth, the Hyutahy, still more spacious, and the before-mentioned Teffe and Puru, the largest of all, have their origins in the serras of Peru or issue from the lake of Rogagualo; their sources have been attributed to both, without any exploration of their courses or any satisfactory evidence being adduced in support of those statements. The extensive volume of water which each brings to the Amazons indicates a very considerable course from remote origins. It will be interesting to the future traveller to explore their unknown sources and extending margins. The Portuguese do not carry their researches amongst the central Indians; and, when they advance up the rivers any distance, they never proceed beyond the limits of the pacific Indians, with whom they have some commerce.

Fonteboa, a middling povoaçao, is situated on the eastern margin of the small river Cayarahy, two miles above its mouth, twenty miles from the embouchure of the Hyurba, and thirty-five below that of the Hyutahy. It has a church[483] dedicated to Nossa Senhora de Guadalupe. The first site of this town was upon the small river Capury, which empties itself into another called Moroentyba, and which latter discharges itself below the Manhana, the third branch of the Hyapura. From the Capury it was removed to the mouth of the Moroentyba, and from thence to the situation of Taracoatyba, a short distance from the Manhana, from whence it was removed seven miles below the mouth of the Hyutahy, where Condamine says he saw it, and which situation was changed for its present one. It is not known what nation were its first inhabitants. When it was in the fourth station—the Padre, Frey Joam St. Jeronymo, collected in it many Pacuna Indians, who were previously living in aldeias upon the eastern margin of the river Icapo: these were afterwards joined by the Araycas, Marauhas, and Momanas, and, ultimately, by the Tacunas, Tumbiras, and Passes. The whole are now agriculturists, fishermen, and hunters.

Between Fonteboa and the Hyurba the Annamapiu is discharged; and, in the interval, between that town and the Hyutahy, five rivers more—the Campina, Gurumaty, Puruini, Mannarua, and Icapo, which afford so many sheltering places for the canoes at the periods of tempests in the Amazons.

District of Hyabary.

This district, which is the most westerly, is confined on the north by the Amazons, as the others are on the west by the river from which it takes its name, separating it from the Spanish dominions; on the south by the line of demarcation between the two countries, common to the other districts; and on the east by the Hyutahy, from whose mouth to that of the Hyabary may be computed one hundred and seventy miles. Both these boundary rivers produce the same fish as the Amazons, and both afford extensive navigation for the exportation of such productions as may be collected upon their respective margins. In the vicinity of both there is sarsaparilla, and also cocoa. Their confluents are totally unknown.

Their extensive woods, which produce in vain, for the benefit of man, the most precious timber, are occupied by the wild boar, anta, deer, and other quadrupeds and bipeds, which are pursued as game by the hitherto savage nations of Marauhas, Uaraycus, and the Tapaxanas, who inhabit the lower part of the country in the vicinity of the Amazons. At a greater distance are the Panos and the Mayurunas, who make a crown upon the top of the head, and allow the hair to grow to the utmost length. They have perforations in the nose and lips, into which they introduce long thorns; in the corners of the mouth they carry[484] feathers of the macaw; from the lower lip and the extremity of the nose and ears strings of shells are pendant. They are cannibals, and, when any are seriously ill, their relations kill and eat them, before the disease can cut the thread of life. The Chimanos and the Culinos are well known, amongst other tribes, from having the face very round and the eyes extremely large.

Castro d’ Avelaens is inhabited by Indians of different nations, with a church dedicated to St. Christovam, on the margin of the Amazons, twenty miles above the mouth of the Ica. It was first established lower down, between the small rivers Aruty and Matura, in the territory of the Cambevas, and experienced four other changes, similar to the preceding povoaçoes, before it was finally fixed in its present situation. In the interval from this town to the river Hyutahy, the small rivers Capatana, Aruty, Matura, Maturacupa, and the Patia enter the Amazons.

Ollivença, ci-devant St. Paulo, by which name it is yet occasionally called, is a small place, well situated upon the margin of the Amazons, forty miles above Castro d’Avaleans. It has had several removals, and was incorporated with the aldeia of St. Pedro, about one mile above the place where it now stands. Its first inhabitants were Cambeva, Tecuna, Juri, and Passe Indians. In the interval between Castro d’Avaleans and Ollivença the small rivers Acuruhy and Jandiatiba discharge themselves.

The town of St. Joze, situated upon the Amazons, thirty-five miles from Ollivença and ten below the Hyabary, is occupied by Tacuna Indians, who cultivate the necessaries of life and pursue hunting and fishing. Between this town and Ollivença are the rivers Acuty, Camatia, Pacuty, Macapuana, and Hyuruparitapera, and between the same town and the Hyabary is the lake Maracanatyba.

Near the embouchure of the Hyabary is the prezidio of Tabatinga, dedicated to St. Francisco Xavier. Upwards of sixteen hundred miles are computed by the canoe-men from Para to this place, and they consume eighty-seven days in the voyage.

Guianna forms the eastern and southern portion of the region denominated Terra Firma, confined on the north by the ocean and the river Oronoco; on the south by the Amazons; on the east by the ocean; and on the west by the rivers Hyapura and Oronoco.

The Portuguese Guianna, which includes that belonging to the French since 1809, comprises the southern part of that vast province and celebrated island, and is bounded on the north by the Spanish possessions and Surinam: the other boundaries are those already mentioned. It is nine hundred miles in length from east to west, and three hundred at its greatest width, and extends from 6° north to 4° south latitude. The days and nights, with very little variation, are equal all the year, and the climate is exceedingly warm. The territory is not generally fertile, and has more of a flat than mountainous aspect. In many parts of the interior it is very stony, with indications of ancient volcanos. It is irrigated by many navigable rivers, some of which originate in an extensive range of mountains, of no great altitude, prolonged with the Amazons from east to west, but at a considerable distance from it.

Trees are only of magnitude in the vicinity of the rivers and in the substantial and humid soils. The most useful are those of the clove, pechurim, capivi, Indian rubber, and cocoa.

Minerals of iron have been found; there are symptoms of silver, and some stones of estimation.

Islands.—Terra dos Coelhos is between the mouths of the Aruary and the Carapapury, with a channel on the west and the ocean on the east, on which side is the point called North Cape above mentioned.

Maraca is an island eighteen miles in length, with proportionable width, a little to the north-west of the Coelhos. It has in the centre a large lake, stored with fish, and its eastern coast is assailed by the Pororoca.

Between Macappa and North Cape a narrow channel is formed by the islands which range along the coast; and here is remarked a singular phenomenon, denominated pororoca, (the same term we have already described as given to the contention of the waters at the mouth of the Mearim, in the province of Maranham,) which continues three days, at the periods of the change and full moon, when the tides are at the highest. An immense volume of water, twelve to fifteen feet in height, rolls from one beach to the other, followed by a second, and third, and sometimes a fourth, of equal magnitude, with little interval, and with such prodigious rapidity that it destroys every thing opposed to its overwhelming course. The tide, in place of gradually rising in six hours, reaches its greatest height in one or two minutes, with such a terrific noise that it is heard seven or eight miles off.

The island of Penitencia, called Baylique by the Portuguese, in consequence of the tossing which the canoes here sustain from the sea, is six miles long, and sixty south of North Cape.

The islands of Croa are five in a file, separated by narrow channels, and lie to the south-west of Baylique. The whole are flat, and covered with mangroves, where there is an infinity of musquitos and insects.

The river Nhamunda, by corruption Jamunda, divides this vast province into eastern and western, serving also for a limit between the jurisdictions of the ouvidores of Para and of Rio Negro.

Rivers.—In the western part are, first, the Hyapuru and the Rio Negro; afterwards the Rio Branco (White River); the Matary, with two mouths; the Urubu, communicating with the river Aniba by the great lake Saraca, which is near the Amazons, and is there discharged by six mouths.

In the eastern part are the Trombetas, originally Oriximina, large, and entering the Amazons below Rio Negro; the Gurupatuba; the Anauirapucu, by corruption Arannapucu, the Vaccarapy, and the Aruary, which enters the ocean.

The river Hyapura originates in the province of Popayan, and, after having watered eleven hundred miles of country, running towards the south-east, forming numerous islands of all dimensions, incorporates itself with the Amazons by its several mouths. Its adjacent lands are flat, inundated, and bad: Caqueta is its first name in the country where it rises.

The Rio Negro rises also in the province of Popayan, to the north-east of the Hyapura, with which it runs parallel an equal distance. Forty miles before it enters the Amazons it is divided into two unequal branches. Condamine[487] says that he measured the eastern branch, ten miles from the Amazons, and that he found it in the narrowest part seven thousand two hundred and eighteen feet in width. This river augments considerably as it approaches the Amazons, is in parts from twelve to eighteen miles in width, and is divided into various branches by numerous islands, which render the navigation not unfavourable. Its water exhibits such a dark aspect that it has been said to appear like black ink; it is, notwithstanding, transparent, diuretic, and salubrious, retaining its clearness for many leagues after it enters the bed of the Amazons. It has the same fish as the latter, and affords navigation to the centre of various districts. The greatest floods are in August. We will describe its numerous confluents, together with the povoaçoes upon its margins.

Macappa is the most considerable town of the province, situated upon the margin of the Amazons, four miles north of the equator, on elevated land, with a very good fort, a church dedicated to St. Joze, an hospital, tolerable streets, and houses covered with tiles. It had its commencement twelve miles further to the west, at the embouchure of the Matapy. Its inhabitants cultivate Indian corn, mandioca, rice, some cocoa, cotton, and various fruits. Amongst other trees of estimation in its environs there is one called quatiara, the wood of which is yellow, having black stripes; also the macaco wood.

Sixty-five miles east of Macappa is Robordello, reduced to little note by the desertion of the Indians who inhabited it. It is situated upon the southern margin of the island of Cavianna, which is thirty-five miles in length and twenty in width; the land is flat and fertile, with a fine farm or fazenda of cattle, belonging to the Hospital da Santa Caza, (Holy House,) of Mizericordia, at Para. It produces the macaco wood, and the whole of its circuit abounds with fish.

Villanova is situated on the eastern bank, and twenty-five miles above the[488] embouchure of the considerable river Anauirapucu, which originates in the territory of the Armabutos. It was founded for the establishment of white people, but is going into a state of decay in consequence of its desertion by them; those who remain are cultivators of mandioca, Indian corn, and rice; and fish in the channels of the island of Croa. It possesses fine campinhas for breeding cattle; and in its environs the macaco wood grows, which is heavy,—those growing in dry lands are entirely red, and others in a different soil are shaded with black.

Mazagao originated on an island at the mouth of the Matapy, experienced several changes of situation, and was ultimately fixed five miles above the bar of the Matuaca, where it runs into the Amazons, and nearly fifteen miles west of the Anauirapucu. St. Anna was its primitive name, which it lost on the establishment in it of the people of the Praca de Mazagao, from the kingdom of Marrocos, who were afterwards augmented by various families from the Azore islands. Cotton and rice are the riches of its dwellers, who are diminishing in consequence of the prevalence of fevers. In its districts there are various excellent earths for potteries, but their productions are very indifferent.

Forty miles to the south-west of Mazagao, and near twenty-five from the Amazons, is the parish of Fragozo, on the right margin of the Jary, with a church of St. Antonio. Its inhabitants collect cloves, cocoa, cotton, sarsaparilla, &c. and advance up the Amazons in search of the tortoise. Between Fragozo and Mazagao is the parish of St. Anna, on the margin of the fine river Cajary: rice, cotton, and some cocoa, are its productions.

Arrayollos is a small town, agreeably situated upon a small hill near the eastern margin, and fifteen miles above the mouth of the Aramucu. It has two large open spaces, with some semblance to squares, a church dedicated to Nossa Senhora do Rozario, and inhabitants who are agriculturists and fishermen.

Espozende a Villota, or Small Town, in an elevated situation upon the Tubare, commanding fine views of the surrounding Campinhas, has a church of Our Lady do Rozario, and is ten miles north-west of Arrayollos. Fishing, hunting, the cultivation of cotton, Indian corn, rice, and mandioca, is the occupation of its inhabitants.

Almeyrim is a middling town, occupying an advantageous site at the mouth of the Paru, of which it first took the name, and originating in a Dutch fort, which is yet preserved. There is a diversity of excellent timber in its environs, and the inhabitants are fishermen, and cultivate mandioca, Indian corn, rice,[489] legumes, and cotton. Twenty miles above Almeyrim is the parish of Our Lady of Desterro, at the mouth of the considerable Vaccarapy. Fishing, hunting, and the culture of cotton and common necessaries, occupy its inhabitants.

Outeyro, a middling town, well supplied with fish, is situated upon a small hill on the eastern side of the lake Urubuquara, formed by the river of the same name; it is fifteen miles from the Amazons, and sixty-five west of Almeyrim. The church is dedicated to Nossa Senhora of Graca, and its productions are similar to those of the preceding place.

Montalegre, a considerable town, also abounding with fish, is situated on the highest portion of a small island, near the eastern margin of the Gurupatuba, which forms it. It is thirty-five miles above Outeyro, and seven from the Amazons, and was one of the principal missions of the Jesuits, whose Hospicio is now the residence of the vicar. Mandioca, feijao, cotton, cocoa, and coffee, are its productions. In its district the clove-tree prospers, and it has a saw-pit, on account of the treasury, for sawing the trunks of the cedars that the floods of the Amazons deposit upon a neighbouring island.

Prado is yet a small place, upon the eastern branch of the river Surubui, twenty miles from the Amazons, and fifty west of Montalegre. Its inhabitants are Indians, and live by some agriculture, hunting, and fishing.

Alemquer is a considerable town, supplied with excellent meat, and well situated upon the central embouchure of the lake Surubui, fifteen miles from the Amazons, and fifty north of Santarem. It is a country infested with the musquito, called carapana. The church is dedicated to St. Antonio. Mandioca, Indian corn, rice, tobacco, and cocoa, are its productions.

Obydos, formerly Pauxis, the name of the Indians for whose establishment it began, is a considerable town, upon a small hill, with some regularity, and a large square in the centre, near the eastern mouth of the Trombetas, with an extensive view of the Amazons, the whole of whose waters here rapidly descend by a channel about a mile in width, but of such profundity, that the attempts to find the bottom by sounding, have been unsuccessful. It has a magnificent church, dedicated to St. Anna, and is fifty miles west of Alemquer. The inhabitants cultivate divers necessaries of life, cotton, and a large quantity of cocoa, which is in the highest repute at the capital.

Faro is a middling town, near a large lake, traversed by the river Jamunda,[490] forty miles west-north-west of Obydos, and above twenty from the Amazons. Its church is dedicated to St. Joam Baptista, and the soil is well adapted to the produce of cocoa, the principal wealth of its inhabitants.

Sylves is a small place, situated upon the summit of an island near the margin of the lake Saraca, eighty miles west-north-west of Faro, and twenty distant from the Amazons. It abounds in fish and the necessaries of life peculiar to the country. It has a church of St. Anna, and the inhabitants are of various classes and colours, as are those of the other towns, and cultivate excellent tobacco, cotton, cocoa, cloves, and sarsaparilla.

Serpa is a middling town upon a small island of the Amazons, near its northern bank, fifty miles from Sylves, and thirty-five below the mouth of the Madeira. It has a church of Nossa Senhora of Rozario, and inhabitants who derive a partial benefit from the rich productions that nature has bestowed upon this country.

Forty miles to the north-west of Serpa is the parish of Our Lady of Conceiçao, advantageously situated on the margin of the great lake Canuma. Its productions are among the commerce and necessaries of life. Twenty miles north-west of the preceding, and forty from the Amazons, the parish of St. Raymundo, on the margin of the Urubu, is occupied by Indians, who collect some articles of exportation. Fifty miles west of Conceiçao and forty from the Amazons, is the parish of Nossa Senhora do Socorro, near the lake of Matary, with productions similar to the preceding one.

Fifteen miles above the parish of St. Raymundo is that of St. Pedro Nolasco, also on the margin of the Urubu. Its inhabitants are Indians, and their mode of life and productions do not differ from the others.

Marippy is a middling town, on the left bank of the Hyapura, thirty miles from the Amazons, the church is of St. Antonio, and its inhabitants are an accumulation of divers Indian nations, amongst whom are the Miranhas, who possessed part of the territory between the Hyapura and the Ica. They are fishermen and hunters, and collect a portion of the productions of nature in its environs. Fevers do not permit Europeans to reside here in any number.

Rio Negro, a considerable and flourishing town, capital of the province, and head of the Ouvidoria of the same name, has a church of Nossa Senhora da Conceiçao, and is situated near a small hill, on the left margin of the eastern branch of the Rio Negro, ten miles from the Amazons. Its origin was a fort, now existing, near which various families were established, of the Bamba, Barre, and Passe nations. It is the depository of divers mercantile productions,[491] which descend by the river, and are destined for exportation. It has a manufactory of cord from piacaba, one for weaving cotton cloth, and a pottery, all worked on account of the treasury. The main part of the cattle killed here are embarked from the royal fazendas of Rio Branco. Above the extremity of the town the Cachoeira discharges itself, which, four miles distant, forms a handsome cataract, whose murmuring descent is heard at this place.

One hundred miles above the capital is the parish of Ayrao, with a church of St. Elias, on the southern margin of the Rio Negro. It first began upon a large bay near the capital, for the habitation of the Taruma and Aroaqui Indians. In the interval between these places the Rio Negro receives, on the southern margin, the Hyborena, and on the northern, the Ayurim, the Anauene, and the small rivers Cunamau, Mapauhau, and Uacriuan, which empties itself almost in front of Ayrao.

Moura is a small town, forty miles above Ayrao, of an agreeable aspect, and with some regularity, upon the right bank of the Rio Negro. The church is of St. Ritta, and its inhabitants are principally descendants of whites and Indian females. It originated in the assemblage of four Indian nations—the Carahyahys, Cocuannas, Mannaus, and Jumas, after which it had one or two removals previously to being fixed in its present situation. A little above Ayrao, the Jaumuhi enters the Rio Negro, and fifteen miles below Moura the Anany, both connecting the river that receives them with the Cadaya, the eastern arm of the Hyapura, through the medium of the large lake Atinineni, in whose vicinity the cupahyba, or capivi, trees abound. The Hyanapary, by corruption Jaguapiri, enters the northern margin of the Rio Negro, almost in front of Moura. This river, whose waters are white, has an extensive course. The Aroaqui Indians extend themselves from its banks to those of the before-mentioned Anauene.

Twenty-eight miles above Moura, on the southern margin of the Rio Negro, is the parish of Carvoeyro, having experienced several changes of situation, with a church of St. Alberto, and inhabitants mainly of the Manau, Parauanno, and Maranacuacena nations. Between Moura and Carvoeyro not one river enters the Rio Negro by the southern bank; on the northern the large river Branco, (White,) so called from the colour of its waters, discharges itself by four mouths, three very near, being formed by two small islands, the other, called Amayauhau, is fifteen miles above. This river is the largest confluent of the Rio Negro, and rises in the southern skirts of the serra Barocayna, receiving, on the eastern side, in the following order, the small river Macoary, the outlet of the[492] lake Uadauhau, the river Ememeneny, the waters of the lakes Curuicu and Uariary, and the river Uanauhau. On the western margin the rivers Coratirimani, Eniuini, Ayarani, Cauame, and Ucayay.

Fifty miles above Carvoeyra is the parish of Poyares, upon the same side of the Rio Negro, ornamented with a church of Santa Angelo, and occupied by the Manao, Bare, and Passe Indians. Between Carvoeyra and Poyares the river Cauhaury enters the Rio Negro, on the southern side; and, on the western, the small rivers Uanapixi, Uaniba, and Cuaru.

Barcellos, twenty miles above Poyares, on the same margin of the river, is the largest town of the province, being for many years the residence of its governors, with a church of Our Lady of Conceiçao, and inhabitants of various classes, who are agriculturists, fishermen, hunters, and dealers. In the interval between Poyares and Barcellos the Rio Negro only receives the Uatahanary, eight miles below the latter place, on the southern side; on the northern, the small rivers Uyrauhau, Hyamurauhau, and Buhybuhy, the latter in front of the same town.

Fifty miles above Barcellos is the small town of Moreyra, on an eminence, upon the southern bank of Rio Negro. Nossa Senhora do Carmo is the patroness of its church, and its inhabitants are descendants of Europeans married to Indian females. In the interval from Barcellos to Moreyra the Rio Negro receives, on the southern side, the rivers Barury and Quihyuny, and the small rivers Aratahy and Quemehueury; on the northern, the Parataqui and the Uaraca, which receives, on the left, the Demene, upon whose margins formerly dwelt the Guianna Indians.

Thomar, a small town, fifty miles above Moreyra, with potteries along the southern margin of the Rio Negro, is situated in a country well adapted for the culture of indigo. Its church is of Our Lady of Rozario, and the inhabitants are composed of persons of divers complexions, who collect only the necessaries of subsistence. It began one hundred miles higher up, for the habitation of the Manao, Bare, Uayuana, and Passe tribes. In the interval from Moreyra to Thomar the Rio Negro receives, on the southern side, the Urarira, whose margins were possessed formerly by the valorous Manao Indians, who extended themselves as far as the river Chiuara. They admitted two gods—one the author of good, denominated Mauary, the other of evil, called Sarauhe. Their idiom prevailed amongst the other tribes with whom they lived. On the northern margin it receives the river Uerere, whose territories were, in other times, inhabited by the Carahyahy and Uaryhua nations; and the Padauiry, opposite the[493] town of Thomar, which is a large river of white-coloured water, and traverses the lands of the ancient Oremanaos, gathering on the left the Uexie Mirim.

Ten miles above Thomar is Lamalonga, an Indian povoaçao of Manaos, Bares, and Banibas, situated on the right bank of the Rio Negro. Some dispute between the Captains Alexander de Souza Cabary and Joze Joam Dary, residents of Thomar, occasioned the latter to retire with his people to this situation, where they founded a church dedicated to St. Joze; it was afterwards augmented by the Indians of the aldeia of Auacyhyda, which was ten miles higher up the river.

Fifty miles beyond Lamalonga is the parish of St. Izabel, an Indian povoaçao of Uaupes, on the southern bank of the Rio Negro, which, in this interval, receives, on the right, the Chibaru and Maba, and, on the left, the Hyhyaha and Daraha.

Sixty miles above St. Izabel is the aldeia of Maracaby, on the northern margin of the Rio Negro, whose current is here very violent, in consequence of the stones which overspread its bed, occasioning the canoes to be unloaded. In this interval the rivers Hyurubaxy, Uayhuana, Uenenexy, and Chuiara, enter the Rio Negro on the right: the first forms large lakes above its bar, and communicates with the Hyapura. The rivers Marauya, Hyarudy, Inabu, Abuara, Sabururuha, Diba, and Cauabury enter it on the left. The margins of the Marauya, which were formerly inhabited by the Caranaos, who made a very long resistance to the Manaos, have cocoa and sarsaparilla near the serras; these productions are also common on the borders of some of the other rivers.

After Maracaby are the parishes of Caldas on the northern bank, and almost in front of it, on the southern, is Loreto; further on, St. Pedro, on the opposite side; and afterwards St. Antonio, on the southern margin, inhabited by Bare, Macu, and Meppury Indians.

Ten miles above, on the same side, is the aldeia of St. Joam Nepomuceno: in this interval no currents enter the Rio Negro.

Forty miles further, on the opposite bank, is the parish of St. Bernardo. This interval is covered with large stones, and, having two falls, is passed with great difficulty. On the right, the rivers Maria and Curicuriau, and on the left the Uacaburu, Maruhueny, Uhuhybara, Cassabu, and Miuha enter the Rio Negro.

Twelve miles above, on the northern side, is the parish of Nazareth, occupied by Ayriney, Baremacu, and Meppury Indians.

A few miles further, on the same side, near the large falls of Crocoby, is the fort of St. Gabriel, with a povoaçao of Bares.

Continuing to advance up the Rio Negro about thirty-five miles, the parish of St. Joaquim do Coanne is met with, three miles from its southern bank, and upon the right of the Uaupe, which communicates with the Curicuriau by a channel called Inebu. In this space, where there are some dangerous places, denominated Caldeirao and Paredao, with many reefs, the Rio Negro receives two nameless streams on the right, and on the left the Mabuaby, Hyhya, and two others without names.

The above mentioned Uaupe, which is large, receives on the southern side the considerable river Tiquie, whose mouth is five days’ voyage from St. Joaquim. It took the name of the Uaupe Indians, who perforate the lower lips and ears, and carry around their necks a white cylindrical and polished stone.

Twenty-five miles above the mouth of the Uaupe is the large river Icanna; which runs parallel with it and the Uexie. Six days’ voyage upwards by the Icanna there is a large cataract; and, one day more, the bar of the large river Coyary is arrived at, that joins it on the northern side; it receives also the Mabuyauha, which rises a short distance from the Uexie.

In the upper angle of the mouth of the river Uaupe is the parish of St. Miguel; and a little higher, on the same side of the Rio Negro, is the parish of Nossa Senhora of Guia, both inhabited by Baniba Indians.

The parish of St. Anna follows on the northern bank; afterwards St. Fillipe on the southern; and, more distant, that of St. Joam Baptista, inhabited by Baniba Indians.

Fifteen miles higher, the Rio Negro receives the large river Uexie, which waters the territories of the Bannyba, Capuenna, Mendo, and Uerequenna Indians. Between this river and the Icanna, the large serra of Tunuhy prolongs itself. In the vicinity of this confluence is the parish of St. Marcellinoino.

Thirty miles above is the fort of St. Joze of the Marabytannas, also on the southern side, with a povoaçao of Arihiny and Marybytanna Indians, being the last Portuguese colony upon the Rio Negro, which after the Uexie receives no other stream on that side, but the Beturu and the considerable Dimity enters it on the northern.

The canoe-men of Para compute fifteen hundred miles from Para to this fort, and for the accomplishment of the voyage they consume nearly ninety days.

Thirty miles above the forte of St. Joze, on the northern bank of the Rio[495] Negro, is the embouchure of the river Cassiquiary, being a channel of one hundred and eighty miles, opened by nature, and forming a communication between the two immense rivers, the Oronoco and the Amazons.

In 1756, there were only eight missions upon the Rio Negro, viz. Jahu, Pedreira, Aracary, Camara, Maryua, Bararua, Camaru, and Dary. The first is the nearest, and the last is the most distant from the fort upon the bar of the said river.

Upon the margins of the Rio Branco are the parishes of St. Maria, St. Joam Baptista, Nossa Senhora do Carmo, St. Fillipe, St. Antonio, St. Barbara, and St. Joaquim with a fort, which is eleven hundred miles distant from the city of Para, and from sixty to seventy days’ voyage. The inhabitants are Indians; and the houses of the whole are covered with palm branches. Amongst the beautiful birds peculiar to the vicinity of the Rio Negro, is one called the gallo da serra, (the cock of the serra,) a little larger than the blackbird, with strong legs, having spurs like a cock, with a similar beak; its plumage is exceedingly beautiful, of an orange colour, with a bunch of feathers, in the form of a fan, open from the neck almost to the point of the bill, being of the same colour, with a rose-coloured stripe near the border. These birds are very rare.

Cayenna, a considerable town, and well situated in the northern part of the island, upon the embouchure of the river of the same name, on ground rather elevated, is encircled with walls, which are only of stone on the side of the port, where there is a gate and a wooden bridge. All the edifices are of earth, with two or three steps at the entrance. The palace of the governors is not higher, and is surrounded with orange trees, having a square in front. There is a fort, denominated the Citadel, in the most elevated situation, being almost its only defence. It is the only remarkable town in the ex-French Guianna, which that nation commonly called Equinoctial France, whose northern limit is the river Marony. In the treaty of Utrecht, the river Vincent Pinson, was named as the common limit between Portuguese and French Guianna, the engagement of the French Monarch on this subject was conceived in the following terms:

“Sa Majeste se desistera pour toujours comme elle se desiste des à present par ce traite dans les termes les plus forts, et les plus authentiques, et avec toutes les causes riquises comme se elles étoient inserées ici, taut en son nom, qu’en celui de ses hoirs, successeurs, et héritiers de tous droits et pretentions, qu’elle peut on pourra prétendre sur la propriété des terres appellées du Cap du Nord, et situées entre la riviere des Amasones et celle de Iapoe, ou de Vincent Pinson,[496] sans se reserver on retenir aucune portion des dites terres, afin qu’elles soient desormais possedées par sa Majesté Portugaise.]”

The Portuguese and French always gave the name of Vincent Pinson to the river Oayapoek; the latter nation, after Condamine, wished the boundary line to be considered the Aguary, by them called Arauary, which discharges itself near two hundred miles further to the south-east; but the French never had any kind of establishment south of the Oayapoek.[44] The fort of St. Louiz, which changed its name to that of St. Francisco with the revolution, situated fifteen miles from the sea, on the northern margin of the Oayapoek, was always the most southern establishment of Equinoctial France.

By the treaty of Madrid, in 1801, the Portuguese crown, unwillingly ceded the territory north of the Carapanatuba. In the following year, by the treaty of Amiens, the divisionary line received twenty leagues, the river Aguary then serving as the limit, as well as subsequently to the conquest of the country.

About the year 1630, the French established themselves here, under the same evil star that has influenced all their conquests in the western hemisphere. Shortly afterwards, abandoning their establishments on Terra Firma, they removed to the island of Cayenna, where they remained till the year 1655, without the colony arriving at that flourishing state which was expected. In this year it passed under the dominion of the British government, and was retained by us till the year 1674. The Dutch took possession of it at this time, and kept it for four years.

Various obstacles were opposed to the activity of the colonists (who always lived in hopes of fortune being more propitious) to the period of the revolution, which threw every thing into a worse state; with it disappeared some small towns and Indian aldeias which were on the island and upon the continent, beginning with an Hospicio of Franciscans.

The island of Cayenna, formed by the river of the same name, the Mahory, and a narrow and winding strait by which they communicate, is twenty miles long from north to south, of proportionable width, and irregular form; the land is low, diversified with gentle elevations, and overspread with timber.[497] The soil is sandy, and black at the surface; at the depth of two feet it is red, and is favourable to the growth of coffee, cotton, Indian corn, indigo, mandioca, and the cane. During the rainy season the vegetation is abundant for the sustenance of oxen, horses, goats, sheep, and wild quadrupeds. In the three months of most rigorous drought all these animals suffer from hunger, and many die.

There are numerous small rivers of soft water, which carry various sugar works. The channel which separates it from the continent conducts to the port the productions of that side. Notwithstanding the east wind refreshes the atmosphere every morning, the air is unwholesome, in consequence of the contiguous morasses, which breed an immensity of various species of insects, such as mosquitos, large toads, ants, and many others, that annoy the inhabitants.

The great disparity between the actual condition of the Brazil and that which, from its pure climate, fertile soil, numerous rivers, and immense extent, it is capable of attaining, is the main circumstance that will be suggested to the reader by the perusal of the foregoing pages. The climate is indeed generally so salubrious that diseases are as rare as in any part of the globe, much less as fatal as they are often found to be in similar latitudes. In a region so extensive the climates are necessarily various, but, with the exception of some of the pantanos, or morasses, and stagnant waters remaining after inundations, the country is for the main part exceedingly wholesome; and, as far as my own information and observation has extended, the provinces immediately bordering upon the equator, are equally, if not more healthful than many nearer the tropical line. The soil is so fertile that a much less portion of culture is requisite for its abundant production than is found necessary for most other countries of the world, and is, indeed, to a very large extent, almost spontaneously productive.

The facilities are incalculable which it might supply to commerce, and towards increasing and aggrandizing its people from the multitudinous rivers that pour beauty, comfort, and health, into its extensive tract. The advantages already mentioned, with its diversified aspect, its champaign and its hilly surface, its noble mountains and woods, where sport a great variety of beautiful and useful animals, its groves of numerous kinds of fruit, and of balsamic and spice trees, peopled with birds of luxuriant plumage or of alimentary utility, would, with the addition of that agricultural and commercial improvement of which it is so immensely susceptible, and the introduction of literature, science, and art, and the consequent prevalence of a social, liberal, and hospitable feeling, advance it to a state of beauty, prosperity, and happiness not to be surpassed by any other portions of the globe, and equalled but by few.

It is obvious that at present these numerous provinces, each of which might, when thus improved, constitute a kingdom, are mainly in a primeval state, and hitherto the religious bigotry, the unlettered ignorance, the unsocial manners, the commercial defects, the narrow, civil, and ecclesiastical polity have for centuries checked the natural growth of every thing that adorns and gives power to an empire.

But a nobler view of this fine country is rising before us. The adoption by the Brazilians of the free constitution of government recently determined upon by the mother country, and sanctioned by the beneficent disposition of their monarch, as well as by the highly honourable, judicious, and decided approbation of the Prince Royal, will, it is hoped, rouze the latent energies of this fine country, and produce an immediate advance towards that flourishing and distinguished state we have been contemplating. Indeed it cannot be otherwise if the constitution is adopted with stability and energy; for liberty, civil and religious, is richly productive of every thing that is honourable and beneficial to mankind, and those have been the most truly glorious who have enjoyed it most, giving, as it does to man, when wisely tempered, an open and happy countenance and heart, and a firm and erect attitude, step, and character. Such has been Greece in ancient and such is Britain in modern times.

The want of similar blessings in the Brazil has greatly paralysed industry in the pursuits of husbandry and commerce, engendered apathy, and an almost total depression of any desire to emerge from a state of profound ignorance in literature and the arts. Education, partially derived from Royal professors, whose pompous denominations are a mockery upon learning, will now surely soar to excellence, by means of the establishment of seminaries of learning, with professors of real talent. The diffusion of knowledge, and the interest which a share in a popular constitution will give the people in their government, will change their listless character into one of life and energy. The amelioration of the laws respecting property in land, the adoption of new regulations in favour of commerce, and the curtailing the mind-degrading and extortionate influence of a numerous and slothful priesthood, will give the Brazilians the desire and the power of giving effect to the immense physical means of felicity and glory afforded by a country so extraordinarily favoured by nature.

When so barren, so foggy, so unproductive, and so small a country as Holland, has rendered itself so rich and distinguished among European states, infinitely more blessed by nature, what may not be anticipated of a land so immense, so luxuriant in soil, and so favourable in climate as the Brazil, capable as it is of largely producing almost whatever nature has bestowed upon other countries. What may not be anticipated now that such a land has exchanged slavery for freedom.

The philosopher, the man of business, and the philanthropist, already exult in the change, and are felicitated by the prospect so richly and grandly opening before them. To the first, improved facilities will be afforded, in one[500] of the most magnificent and varied fields in the world, for his delightful pursuits in Natural History. To the British merchant particularly an immense augmentation of his commercial dealings will be opened, by a wiser administration of the Brazilian government relative to the exchange of commodities with other countries, and by the increased industry and prosperity of the Brazilian people. The well-wisher to the happiness of his fellow men will be cheered with the prospect of the gradual if not speedy abolition of the hateful slave-trade; thus conferring the enjoyment of freedom not only upon their sable brethren in South America, but cutting off one of the main sources of the wars, slavery, and misery of the people of Africa. The revered names of Clarkson and Wilberforce will then sound as gratefully as they now do odiously to the Brazilian planter and dealer, who at present, from a prejudiced and narrow conception of what best contributes to the prosperity of individuals and of nations, and from an ignorant and ill-founded notion of the faculties of the negro, misconceive the labours of those excellent men. The picture which we have drawn of the future advancement of this country permits us also to indulge the hope that the blessings of civilization will be carried with Jesuitical earnestness among the numerous untamed Indians, and that the envenomed dart, rudely-painted skin, and distorted features, will give place to the customs of social life, thereby converting their native wilds into scenes of fertility, such as formerly beautified the missions of Paraguay, where groves of fruit trees, where sweetest plants and flowers, plantations of roots, of rice, and Indian corn, numerous useful animals, together with a mild paternal government, ensured plenty and prosperity to the inhabitants.

The king sailed from Rio de Janeiro for Lisbon on the 26th of April, 1821, and arrived at the latter city the beginning of July, accompanied by upwards of four thousand persons, which will tend to produce a temporary depression of the commercial spirit and consequence of the Brazilian capital. When it is known, however, that a considerable portion of those individuals were hangers-on upon the royal bounty, and that a great many others were not permanent residents, but merely drawn thither from Portugal, for a certain period, to obtain some object with the government, (and from the known partiality of the king in detaining European Portuguese in the Brazil, the number under those circumstances were always considerable,) the impression will be diminished of any lengthened or serious check upon the prosperity of this city by their removal. It will be gratifying to the Brazilians to have still amongst them the Conde dos Arcos, who fulfilled the duties of viceroy, on the arrival of the royal family at the Brazil, to the general satisfaction of the people, and who is appointed prime-minister to His Royal Highness Don Pedro.

ZOOLOGY.

All the Species of Domestic Animals of the South of Europe here become more Prolific than in their native Country.

WILD QUADRUPEDS.

The Anta, which the Aborigines call Tapira, and Tapijerete, is the largest of the Brazilian quadrupeds, and does not belong to any known species, constituting of itself a distinct one in the history of animals. It is the size of a small heifer, and very similar to a hog in the figure of its body as well as in the shape of the ears, which are proportioned to its size. The hair is short and sleek; the legs are very thick and short; the hind feet have three hoofs and the front feet four; the tail is of a tapering form, with little more than three inches in length; the head is large and long; the eyes small; the upper lip is a musculous appendage, which the animal extends four inches beyond the lower one, or draws it in to the same length; the mouth is furnished with eight pointed teeth in each jaw, ten grinders in the lower, and fourteen in the upper. It pastures like a horse; and, although heavy, has considerable velocity in its career. It is timid and harmless, doing no injury even to the dog which pursues it. Being amphibious, it swims and dives in an extraordinary manner, and proceeds along the bottom of deep pools for a great distance, remaining for a long time under water without respiring. Its flesh differs from that of the ox only in taste and smell, and is eaten generally. It is of all colours.

There are three sorts of Mountain Boars; some are entirely black, some have the under jaw white, others, of a small size and gray, are call Caitetus: these become domesticated so as to accompany their master through the streets, without ever leaving him. Their flesh is not of such good flavour as that of the wild boar in Europe.

The Cachoro d’Agua (Water Dog) is small and web-footed, its tail is long and flat, and its hair exceedingly smooth and fine. It is amphibious, and goes almost always in the water, where it is said to be so ferocious that it kills ounces when they are swimming across rivers. When caught, it may be domesticated; but it never ceases to utter lamentations. It is only met with in the central rivers of the Brazil.

The Cao Silvestre, or Cachorro do Matto, (Wild Dog,) is small and strong, of a dark or ash colour, with a keen scent. It is a constant persecutor of the deer, and is said to be met with only in the southern parts of the river Contas.

The Capibara has the figure and size of a hog, short ears, the snout and teeth of a hare, thin and coarse hair, and large membranes between the hoofs. It always keeps near the water, is a great swimmer, and is mischievous: few people eat its flesh.

There are three sorts of Mountain Cats. The gray ones are denominated mariscos, the red and spotted ones maracaias. The latter are very large, and not always harmless.

The Caxingle is much larger than a squirrel, with little hair upon the tail, and of a gray colour; it seldom puts its feet upon the ground, but leaps from one branch to another, and thus traverses immense woods; is harmless, and lives upon fruits.

The Coelho, or Rabbit, differs only from that of Europe in having a shorter tail, and is not very numerous.

The Cotia is two spans in length, with long legs, small ears, the snout of a rabbit, hair strong and of a red colour, with scarcely any appearance of a tail. After being domesticated it proceeds into the fields, and returns again. Its flesh is dry and hard.

The Cuica is a species of amphibious rat, speckled with white and black, having a tail without hair. It eats fish and such birds as it can catch.

The Cuim is about the size of a leveret, has short feet, a long tail, and the snout of a squirrel. It is entirely covered with hair, and with prickles like pins, which defend it from other animals. It runs little, and lives on the ground.

The Guara has the figure of a wolf, and differs from it triflingly in the marks of its skin. It is only met with in the central provinces of Brazil, where it is not numerously seen nor so destructive as its species in Europe. It is, however, a great enemy to young calves: in some parts it is called a wolf; its skin and teeth are much esteemed.

The Guaracao is a species of large and wild dog, which does not confound or mix itself with any other of its kind.

The Guaraxaim is also a species of dog, about the size of a cat, and lives in subterraneous caverns, or burrows, which it forms expressly for its habitation. Every thing that it meets with in the campo, (field,) although not eatable, such as a hat or a handkerchief, it will drag to the door of its dwelling.

The Guaxinim is a species of fox, with a short and thick snout, feet rather long and open, and the breast large or full. It abounds most in the vicinity of the sea, and descends to the beach to procure crab-fish.

The Hirara, in some provinces called Papamel, has the appearance of a monkey seen at a distance. It is three spans in length, sharp snouted, with short legs, and a long tail; of a dark colour, with an ash coloured head; but it does not retain these colours in all the provinces.

The Jaraticaca, or Cangamba, as it is called in some provinces, and which some consider of a species of pole-cat, resembles the squash of North America, and is remarkable, not only for its beautiful figure, its white and black spots, and shaggy tail, but for its singular and invincible power of defence, which it uses with facility against every enemy. This animal, on being assaulted, and sometimes before, emits a portion of urine so extraordinarily loathsome that the aggressor thinks only of the mode of deliverance from it. The dogs rub their noses in the earth, and men are earnestly[503] desirous to free themselves from their clothes, which retain the odious smell. Occasionally some are killed before they use this defence, or unexpectedly before they see their enemy, or at a distance when they do not anticipate the hunter. A naturalist, who dissected the Jaraticaca, found near the urinal vessel a small receptacle of water, totally distinct from that of the bladder, and was persuaded that the fetid matter proceeded from thence. The fat of this animal, applied externally, is a very powerful emollient, and the flesh is said to have a good flavour when not infected with the fetid water; the skin is used for pockets: it passes for the civet-cat.

The Lontra, or Otter, is an amphibious animal, much larger than that of Europe, equally voracious and gluttonous of fish. The hair is red, short, and thick, and the skin esteemed.

The Moco differs only from the Rabbit in having neither ears nor tail, and is only met with where there are rocks, in the cavities of which it forms its dwelling-place. It is easily domesticated, and then it becomes daring, and will ill-treat and even make the dogs fly. It is a mortal enemy to rats, even more destructive to them than the cat. It is naturally extremely turbulent and treacherous, but without sagacity to execute its evil designs, falling a prey to its own temerity. The life of this animal is generally short.

There are numerous species of the Monkey, distinguished only by the size and colour of the hair. Those called by the Brazilians Guaribas generally proceed in bands, and, for the most part, along the branches of trees, where the whole body make a noise that is heard two miles off. The Sahuins, some of which are the size of a rat, are handsome, and esteemed for the white plumes or tufts that grow out of the ears. Of those called Barbados, the male has a sort of cup, formed of bone, in the throat, which produces a loud and hoarse sound. Amongst others we may notice those that have no regular dwelling-places, and do not put their feet in water. They pass rivers, forming a chain by holding fast to each other, but if they should happen to fall into the water they can swim like other quadrupeds. When they are on an excursion to rob the corn fields of maize, one is always stationed as centinel, in a proper place to discover the approach of the hunter. They have only one at a birth, which they carry upon the back with them for some days.

The Onca, or Ounce, is a species of immense cat, of terrible aspect, with a frightful yell, or roar. The largest is about twelve feet in length.

There are five different kinds. Some of a dark colour, with small brilliant jet black spots, denominated the Tiger; others spotted with black and white, or yellow, displaying much symmetry, and are properly called Ounces, or Panthers; a third, with very small speckles; a fourth with larger spots, called Canguçus; others, of a reddish colour, are the smallest, and are called Sucuarannas; the last only attack young cattle and small animals, but the former kill a horse or an ox in a moment. A bull grown to full maturity is the only quadruped which resists and is not alarmed at this forocious animal.

The hunting of the Ounce is less laborious but more dangerous than that of the Anta. The Brazilians generally hunt it in large parties, well armed with guns, lances, and pitchforks, always accompanied with dogs, and the greater the number less dangerous is the chase. Although this beast is much larger, possesses incomparably greater strength, and is infinitely swifter than the dog, for which it has a mortal hatred, on seeing one it always retires, as if having a presentiment of the approach of the hunters. It does not proceed far till it climbs a tree, or, if hard pressed, makes a terrible braying, and furiously attempts to catch some of the dogs, and if one comes within reach of its paws it has not much chance of escape. If the hunter does not take his aim well, so as to kill the Ounce upon the spot, it flies directly to the place where the smoke came from, and his fate[504] is inevitable, unless his companions destroy it with their arms, or he is prepared with a lance to despatch it when it makes the last spring. It seizes upon its prey first with the paws and then with the teeth.

The Paca is a heavy creeping quadruped, little more than two spans in length, without a tail, having small ears, the snout of a rabbit, coarse strong hair, and is of a reddish colour, with small white spots along the sides, and streaked with the same colour along the back. It is the best game of the country, and is divested of its hair and prepared for the table similarly to a sucking pig.

The Porco-espim, or Porcupine, is of the size of a cat, with a long tail, and covered with long sharp-pointed quills, but its head has a greater resemblance to that of a dog. It is most numerous near the central rivers.

The Preguica, or Sloth, is a stout short quadruped; very lazy; covered with long thick hair; having stout legs armed with large paws; a small head, and round physiognomy, with some similarity to a monkey without ears or tail, and climbs trees. It subsists upon leaves. Its extreme slowness gives rise to its name. It is asserted in the Poem of Caramura that it possesses this tardy propensity to such a degree that in a few paces it consumes a whole day.[45]

The Preha is of the size and colour of a leveret, with the snout more rounded; the ears are very small and membranous, and it is without a tail. It can swim small brooks and rivers, and is esteemed good eating, particularly by the negroes.

The Quati is very similar to a fox, at the first sight, chiefly in the head, but its ears are shorter, rounder, and less hairy. Its hair is also long, thick, and soft, like the fox, of which it has the physiognomy. The legs are short and thick, the feet long, with five toes, furnished with claws, with which it climbs trees and digs up insects. The tail is long and round, gradually growing smaller to the extremity, and varied with a succession of rings; the mouth is long, becoming smaller towards the extremity, like that of a hog; the mouth is large, with teeth similar to those of a dog; the under jaw is almost an inch and a half shorter than the upper. This animal may be so domesticated that it will accompany its master into the campos like a little dog; but its natural restlessness requires it generally to be confined. There are two sorts of this quadruped, differing only in size. The small class always proceed in bands, and are called quati-monde.

The Ropoza, or Fox, is less than that of Europe, equally subtle, and even more destructive in the damage it does to the cane plantations and melons. Its skin is used only for housings.

Amongst the various races of Rats is the Rato de Espinho, (the Prickly Rat,) which is large, white bellied, its upper part ash-coloured, and its sides furnished with prickles. It is agreeable to the sight, without smell, and its flesh is esteemed good.

The Sarohe, or Gamba, a species of the Oppossum, is as large as a middle sized cat, with the form of a rat, of a disagreeable aspect and nauseous smell; the legs are short; the feet and ears like a rat; its hair is thin, long, and sleek; the tail long, becoming small towards the end, and without hair. It has the head and snout of a pig, a large mouth, with the teeth of a dog. This animal is one of the most remarkable objects in Natural History in consequence of a second belly, or womb, which it has below the upper or natural one, with an opening, or mouth, at the fore part, within which it carries its young till they arrive at an age to procure their own subsistence. Some say that this quadruped[505] engenders and brings forth its young like other animals, and, after their birth puts them into this sack, where, in fact, they can only obtain suck, the mother only having teats in the upper belly. Others pretend that the young organize themselves by being attached to the dugs, from whence, at maturity, they fall into the sack. It is, however, certain that the young are found drawing nourishment from the paps of the mother, by which they are suspended and cling firmly to them, even when without hair and very small. They are great destroyers of poultry, and passionately fond of cachaca, or rum, with which they are easily caught, as they soon become intoxicated.

The Savia is like a leveret, with hair similar to that of a hare, and a long tail; breeds in holes or pits; eats fruit; and is much esteemed for its flesh. It is thought to be a species of the caxingle.

There are two breeds of Tamanduhas, or Ant-Bears, small and large. The larger, called Tamanduha-bandeira, is of the bigness of a middling sized hog, to which it assimilates in the body, having the bristles of a wild boar, black and thick, with gray marks on each side; the ears are round and extremely small; the snout very long and tapering, having the appearance at its termination of that of a lamb; its mouth is very small and without teeth; the tongue exceedingly long and narrow, with which it catches the Cupim-ant, its only aliment; the tail is long and shaggy, and curled back towards the neck from whence its name is derived, (bandeira, flag or ensign;) it has short and very thick legs with five toes on each foot, each toe being furnished with a short and thick claw. It imprints a foot-mark like a child’s, runs little, scarcely makes any exertion to escape from its aggressor, and when irritated will advance against a man; but it is only necessary to give it a blow upon the snout and it falls dead on the ground. When it perceives itself attacked it lies on its back and waits for the enemy, which on drawing near, it instantly fastens upon, and will never leave its hold unless the tendons of its legs are cut. Ounces have been found dead with Tamanduhas, firmly fastened to each other. For hunting this animal, the flesh of which is insipid but medicinal in certain diseases, it is necessary to have a dog that will trace its track, but, in order not to run any risk, it is necessary that it should be timorous and cautious.

The Tatu, or Armadillo, of which there are various sorts, differing only in the size and the number of bands of shells which cover them, is of a wonderful figure; the head and ears are similar to those of a pig, the eyes small, the snout long and pointed, the mouth small, the tail long, somewhat similar to the tail of a rat. The legs are short, and the feet are furnished with large and strong claws, with which they can burrow a hole in the ground, for their safety, almost in an instant. This quadruped is covered with a coat of mail, which in its conformation is one of the most extraordinary phenomena in Natural History. The body is dressed in shells, disposed one over the other as in the tail of a lobster, and forms a sort of housing cloth, that conceals the belly; the whole uncovered with hair, and black. Some of the kinds, when danger is near, can roll themselves up entirely in the shell, like a hedge hog, but others not so completely. That kind denominated Tatuim, or Tatuette, is small. The Verdadeiro is larger, and its flesh good,. The Peba has a flat head. The Canastra is of the size of a pig, and its flesh unwholesome. The Bola, (or Ball,) so called in the Brazil, in consequence of concealing all its members under its shell, is of a whitish colour, and its flesh of good flavour.

There are five sorts of Deer, Galheiros, which are large; Sucuaparas, do mato (of the woods;) Catingueiros[46] and Campeiros.[47]

The amphibious monster, with the figure of a lizard, resembling the crocodile in Africa and Asia, has, in the Brazil, the name of Jacare, or Aligator, and is met with in all the lakes and rivers of tranquil current.

The plains of Brazil abound with a great number of Land Tortoises, which never enter the water; their flesh is of fine flavour, and the liver is considered delicious.

Man has less to fear from wild beasts in the Brazil than from reptiles, the species of which are various, and some exceedingly numerous and generally venomous.

The Sucuriuba are affirmed to grow to the extraordinary length of forty feet, and are confined to lakes and pools of dead water, firmly attaching its tail to a root, or the point of a stone at the bottom of the water; it seizes all living animals that approach the margin, and swallows the whole, as a snake in Europe would a mouse or any small animal. It makes a hollow noise below the water, on hearing any sound from without: the otter is its greatest enemy.

The Surucucu, or Surroco, seldom exceeds fifteen feet in length, is of proportionable width, and usually met with in cool and shady places. Its tail is armed with two spears, and its bite is cured with difficulty. Its skin is marked with great symmetry, and is of an ash colour, with brownish spots, and covered with scales.

In the beginning of 1819, a gentleman accompanied by six other persons arrived one evening upon the margins of a lake, near the river Pardo, in the province of St. Paulo, where they dismounted to take some repose. They perceived at a short distance what they supposed to be the trunk of a tree, which shortly afterwards began to move; the contents of a gun was immediately discharged at it, and they then despatched it with their knives. It was a Serpent of the surucucu species, and the gentleman above mentioned assured me that it measured twenty-one feet in length, and four in girth. He had a variety of articles besides several pairs of boots made from its skin, in the city of St. Paulo, one pair of which I brought with me to England. The torpid state which this serpent at first exhibited, arose from its having recently gorged a young bull.

The Jiboia, which is scarcely distinguishable from the preceding serpent in size or colour, has no spears to its tail, nor does it bite. When it seizes any living creature it is always for the purpose of eating it. It never attacks its prey without first winding its tail round the trunk of a tree, in order that its prisoner may not drag it away, and, after having fatigued it by its first attack, it then draws itself so closely round the animal that it breaks its bones and kills it.

The Cobra, of Cascavel, or Rattle Snake, is so called in consequence of its tail terminating with some similitude to the husks of a species of dried pulse. It has scarcely the thickness of a man’s leg, with proportionable length. It never bites without beating three times with its cascavel, or rattle, upon the ground, and its bite is almost always fatal. It is said that the number of the divisions of the tail is equal to the age in years of this snake. The snake caninana is very long, of a slender form, black and spotted with yellow. The jararaca is a species the most numerous, and its bite is fatal. That denominated the cauda-branca (white tail) is not more than a span in length, and there is yet no known antidote against its venom. The living creature that has the misfortune to be stung by it immediately becomes convulsed, sweats blood, and expires in a short time. The jararacucu is of a deep green colour, of considerable length, and slender. Its bite is generally mortal.

The Cobra de Coral (Coral Serpent) is small, of slender form, venomous, and beautified with rings of various colours.

Duas Cabecas, (Two Heads,) so called because all its length is of the same thickness. It is also venomous. It is said that the best antidote for its bite is to eat the liver of the said snake.

The Papapintos is a large gray snake, said to be harmless. It is seldom met with but upon the margins or in the vicinity of lakes, where it catches toads and rats.

There is another species of serpent, called by the Brazilians Campo-limpa, (Field Cleaner,) in consequence of its cleaning the fields of the smaller snakes. It is light coloured, with a yellowish cast, ornamented with a variety of spots, and is about six feet long. Almost all these species of snakes are said to be viviparous.

The Padre Manoel Ayres de Cazal says, that in the parish of Muritiba, near Cachoeira, in the province of Bahia, a serpent was shown to him, killed within an hour, as a curiosity, in consequence of being wholly unknown to the people. It was scarcely a foot in length, but thick and round, and smooth as an eel, to which its head assimilated. The tail was short and pointed in a pyramidical form. It had four feet extremely small, without any appearance of legs.

In the Brazil there are various species of Spiders, which furnish excellent silk.

The Caranquejeira, so denominated in consequence of being of the size of a moderate sized caranguejo, or crab-fish, is covered with long hair, and is venomous.

The species of Butterflies are here very numerous, as I have before observed. A collection of sixteen hundred different sorts has already been made in the Brazil, and unquestionably there are an infinite number yet for collection to occupy the industry of the naturalist. The most beautiful are found in the vicinity of the tropic and the temperate zone.

There are also a great variety of flies and phosphoric insects, which illuminate the hedges at night by the brilliant lights they emit.

There are also a great diversity of Ants. The most remarkable are those of Mandioca, of Correiçao, and the Cupim. The first are of a reddish colour, and a pest to agricultural productions, as well as fruit trees, such as the orange, and others equal in size or larger. It is necessary every day, in order to preserve the mandioca from the destructive attacks of this insect, to lay something for them to eat, in order that they may not devour the plantations at night or strip the trees of their foliage. It is during the night alone that they commit these depredations. They form spacious subterraneous cavities, with many entrances and outlets, distant one from the other. When it happens that they form this cavity below the foundation-wall of a house sometimes it sinks, and, during the rainy season, most probably falls to the ground. The Correiçao[48] Ant is small, and moves from one district to another in innumerable legions, covering many roods of territory in their march. No living insect can remain upon their line of march: the smaller ones are killed, and the larger obliged to fly. The Cupim is a small Ant, light coloured, and flat, subsisting upon the flour or small particles of wood, with which, and a species of glue that issues from its body, it constructs an arch or vault over the road by which it travels, in order that it may not be seen by other insects and birds which destroy it. It is very destructive to the timbers of dwelling-houses, and builds its residence in the ceilings of the same materials, in a round form full of little cells; sometimes it constructs it upon the points of branches of trees, but the greater number of Cupims erect them upon the ground, with earth, rendered solid by the admixture of the said glue, the whole of the interior being full of cells, saloons, and covered ways: their form is pyramidical, some with many feet in height, and they resist for several[508] winters the tempests of rain that assail them; but the claws of the ant-bear crumble them to dust in a moment, when their inhabitants are as quickly devoured.

There are divers species of the Bee, but none of them can be compared with the European bee in the utility and excellence of its honey.

That called Urucu is the most numerous, and of a gray colour. Its hive is of wood, and the door is an orifice by which one can pass commodiously at a time, and where there is always one upon the watch, with its head out, in order to impede the entrance of small insects. This sentinel is subject to the inconvenience of drawing back upon the entrance or going out of any one of the commonwealth. The mumbuca is of a blackish colour. The mandassaia is black and short. These three kinds are of the size of the European bee. The tubim is smaller. The theuba is also small, and of a yellow cast. The cupimeira, so denominated because it occupies the houses deserted by the Cupim ant, makes good honey. The tatahira and the saranho are the only species that are mordacious. The getahi is of the size of a mosquito, and manufactures a honey of a very liquid and delicious nature. The caruara is a little larger than the preceding. The pregiuçoza is of the size of the getahi, and produces an insipid honey. That named mosquitinho is very small and black, and lives on the ground. None of these species form the honey-comb like those of Europe; the combs are round, and the cells unequal, in the form of a bubble, without regularity, and the wax is more or less glutinous, and never has the whiteness of that of the old world. All the bee-hives, of whatever species of bees they are, have few inhabitants, comparatively speaking.

There are also various casts of Wasps, or Morimbondos, as they are called in the country. The inxuy is delicate, and makes its habitation generally of a round form, plain, and of an ash colour, attached to a branch, or fastened to some plant; its combs are deep, and introduced one into the other, the orifices or cells are full of a yellow savoury honey, which ultimately becomes like refined sugar. The inxu is large, fabricates its combs according to the method of the preceding, and fills them with most excellent honey.

If the Brazil cannot boast of so great a variety of quadrupeds as some countries, perhaps no other region of the world equals it in the innumerable species of birds which it possesses, more wonderful still in the beauty of their plumage and variety of their song.

The Alma de Gato (Soul of a Cat) is of the size of a pigeon, the lower part ash-coloured, and the upper of a gold colour, with a long tail, short and curved beak. It has no song.

There are various kinds of Andorinhas, or Swallows, distinguished alone by the size or the colour, being more or less black.

The Anum is of the size of a blackbird, the whole of a brilliant and jet black, the tail long and rounded, with only eight feathers. The bill curved, thick at the root, and the upper part pointed. Its song is a kind of sad lamentation; and its flight is short. They always proceed in flocks not very numerous, and never alight upon high trees. It is said that these flocks all lay their eggs in one common nest. It is, however, certain, that if the nest of these birds is found with a great number of eggs, there are numerous compartments, and the various little nests are separated by portions of dried grass. There are other casts of the Anum, of the size of the preceding one, but of an ash-colour, with a slender beak, a little curved, and a tuft or plume of feathers, which it elevates and lowers at pleasure.

The Araponga, or Guiraponga, is of the size of a small pigeon, white as snow, with a beak wide at the root, a portion unfeathered, and of a green colour around the eyes. This bird perches upon the[509] top of the highest trees in the woods, and there passes the principal part of the day in a song, which imitates well a farrier just finishing a horse’s shoe upon the anvil.

Azulao is a species of sparrow, of an indigo-colour, which, after being accustomed to the cage, imitates various other small birds.

Bemtevi, so called by the Europeans in consequence of its articulating with accuracy the words which compose its name, is the size of a lark, with a white circle around the head, a thick and pointed bill, having a yellow belly, and a gold colour above.

Bicudo is a kind of sparrow, either of an agate or gold colour, sings, and has a very short thick bill.

Barbudo is little less than a blackbird, also black, with a large white spot on the back, and a yellow one on the neck, a short tail and legs, a large head, with thick eyebrows, a jet black bill, a little curved and pointed, having whiskers.

Cabeca de Rubim (Head of Ruby) is a species of duck, of a green colour, with a little crimson cap, which it conceals at pleasure, as well as the feathers of its sides. The female has a larger and black cap.

Caiçu, which signifies large head, is of the size of a lark, of a disagreeable aspect, with the wings and tail of a tobacco and the belly of an ash colour, having a white spot upon the neck, the upper part of the body gray and speckled with white, a thick neck and bill, the latter black pointed.

Canario (Canary) has the form, and almost the same colour, but not the song of those of the Canary islands. It is the first amongst the small birds that announces the dawn of day.

Cancao is of the size of a blackbird, the belly white, the upper part dark, with a long round tail, and white at the extremity. The fore part of the head, neck, and breast, are of a jet colour. It has a large white spot upon the back part of the head, a small black crest, a small round spot above the eyes, beginning with blue and finishing in white; the iris is yellow, which it extends and compresses, and the beak thick and short. This bird always goes near the ground, and on perceiving any living creature immediately gives a signal. It is the most choleric bird of the country, and a destroyer of the others, eating the eggs and the young ones whilst unfeathered.

Cardial (Cardinal) is a little larger than the linnet, which it resembles. It has a small crimson cap, or hood, which covers a part of the neck, and from which it derived the name: its song is loud and pleasant.

Carrica (Hedge-sparrow) differs from that of Europe only in being a little larger, and less fearful. It makes its nest, with little care, in inhabited houses or the fields.

Chama-Coelho is a little less than the blackbird, with a black head, the lower part yellow, and the upper of a tobacco colour.

Cazaca de Coiro is of the size of a lark, yellow above, and gray under the belly.

Colhereira, which with justice has the pre-eminence of king amongst birds of the morasses, is the size of a large capon, without a tail, of a rose colour above, the belly white, with long legs, long white neck, the bill also long and thick at the root, square in the middle, wide and flat at the point, like a Spatula.

Colibri, or Humming-bird, and known in the Brazil only by the name of Beija Flor, (Kiss the Flower,) is the smallest bird existing. Mr. Robert has represented it to be as small as a fly, in which he does not appear to be correct, as none so diminutive are seen in this country. Their[510] varieties have been stated at six or seven, but there are a great many more: Padre Cazal has seen ten different kinds. An European would never have supposed that a bird so small as the end of one’s finger could exist, furnished as it is with a bill, feathers, wings, and intestines, similar to the larger kind, and he would be naturally disposed to consider it but a creature of imagination, until he visited its native country, and daily beheld it fluttering like a butterfly at every flower, and humming a gentle chirrup. It has long wings compared with the size of the body. The largest, of the size of a very small wren, are of an indigo colour, with a white spot upon the back. The second species differ only from the first in being smaller and not having a spot, both have a long tail much forked. The third kind and size are gray, and make their nests in inhabited houses, in the form of a little pocket, suspended from the point of a straw. The fourth variety are entirely green. The fifth are the same colour and size, with a white spot upon the breast. The sixth differs only from the preceding in having a very short tail. The seventh is of the same colour and size, with the tail yellow. The eighth is the colour of the nightingale, the breast finely speckled with white. The ninth is of a brilliant green, with the wings and tail dark, the beak short, slender, and yellow. All the others have it long, pointed, very delicate, and straight, with the exception of the gray ones and those of the nightingale colour, who have it a little curved. The tenth kind is dark, or almost black, with a short tail of the colour of fire, the bill black, and of medium length; when turned towards the spectator, the throat and breast exhibit at one instant various colours, according to the movements of the bird, at one time that of Aurora, when most bright, or like gold melted in the crucible, followed, on a sudden, sometimes by a suffusion of green, at others by blue, and by white, without ever losing an inimitable brilliancy. The head, which is black, appears ornamented with a little crest of the same colour when the bird has its side towards the observer, and when it presents the front it appears studded with sparkling rubies, or all of a brilliant scarlet, which insensibly changes to refulgent yellow. They generally have the tongue very long, the legs exceedingly short, and the eyes black; their principal aliment is the juice or honey of flowers, which they extract, not as the bee but in the same manner as the butterfly. Some of them have the tongue cleft.

Ema, or Emu, is the Ostrich of the old world, and is the largest bird of this country; its body is round, and covered with long gray feathers, standing on end; the legs thick and long, with three short and stout toes; two sort of spears are at the joints of the wings, which are not sufficient to fly with, but in the plains it surpasses the horse in swiftness, and is difficult to laço, even when the laçador is mounted upon a fleet horse. It has no tail, and when it elevates its head it is the height of a man. Its feathers are esteemed for plumes, and the skin is used for shoes.

Encontro is the size of a greenfinch, long, delicate, and dark, with a yellow spot at the joint of the wing. There are two other sorts, of a jet colour, one of which has white spots, and the other red.

Feiticeiro is the size of a lark, between yellow and green on the upper part, the belly ash colour, with the bill of a blackbird, eyes like rubies, and a small crest,

Galleirao is the size of a pigeon, the upper part green, and the lower purple, with a very short tail, long yellow legs, the neck slender, the head small, with a flat comb, smooth and white, the bill short and thick and the colour of red sealing wax, with the extremity yellow. It frequents the margins of lakes, and its flesh is savory. There is another species of this bird, somewhat varying from it.

Gallo do Bando is the size of a sparrow, black, with a white spot upon the back, and the top of the head green, having a long tail.[511] Guara, one of the handsomest birds that frequent the morasses, has the body similar to a partridge, a long neck and legs, with the bill long and a little curved, and without a tail. The first feathers are white, after a short time they turn black, and finally scarlet, preserving the second colour at the extremity of the wings.

Garca, or Heron, consists of small and large white ones, and also others which are large and of an ash colour.

Gaviao, or Hawk, includes various kinds, of which the Cauhan is small, and the Corocuturu gray, being four spans in length from the head to the extremity of the tail, and will seize a small monkey and fly away with it with great facility.

Grunhata is the size of a robin-red-breast, yellow below and on the front of the head, the rest of a dark colour, except some blue parts. Its song is harmonious. There are other sorts, some of them yellow, with the tail and wings green, and a black stroke the whole length of the lower part.

Jaburu is larger than the turkey-cock, without a tail, and white as snow; the neck, legs, and bill are very long; the latter is pointed.

Jacanan is little less than the thrush, the breast green, the upper part of a tobacco colour, with the wings short and round, the tail very short, with eight small feathers, the eyes and legs of a rosy hue, a fine bill, and a green spot on the front part of the head. It goes always upon the ground.

Jacutinga is a little larger, with the same figure and colour, having green legs, and half of the wings white, a green bill and large black eyes, the feathers on the upper part of the head are long and white, the breast is speckled with white.

Jacu-Pemba is smaller than the first, with the breast of an ash colour. The aracuan is also a species of jacu, the size of a pigeon, with the tail and neck long, of a dark yellowish hue. These four birds have wattles at the throat similar to a turkey-hen.

Japu is the size of a pigeon, black, with a yellow tail, the bill of the same colour, thick, long, round, and finely pointed; when it sings it suspends itself by the feet, at the same time beating with its wings.

Japue is less, and of the same colour, with a large green spot upon the back, the eyes small and the iris blue. Both construct the same kind of nests, which are remarkable for the form and for the art with which they make them at the extremity of the highest horizontal branches, in the shape of a bag or pocket, and five or six spans in length; they are of moss, woven in such a way that they move continually to and fro with the wind, without sustaining any injury. Such is their precaution to prevent their young from being injured by surrounding enemies. They destroy oranges profusely to obtain the seed.

Inhuma is the size of a capon, with dark sides, the belly ash colour, and the wings of an extraordinary length, being ten spans when extended, each with two spurs of an unequal size, and a horn of a bony substance half a span in length and the thickness of a large turkey-quil, sharp pointed, and a little curved at the extremity, with a magnetic virtue, and also with the property of counter-poison. When about to drink it introduces this antidote against poison into the water, and the birds and quadrupeds near it, it is said, then only drink. Its flesh is spongy and not eaten. There are other kinds of this bird about the size of a pigeon.

Joao-de-Barro is a species of lark, yellow, with a whitish streak above the eyes, and only remarkable for the arrangement of its nest of burro, or clay, from which its name is derived. The[512] nest is constructed with much art and perfection between the forked branches of a tree, and consists of a corridor, something more than a span in length, having a window at the end, between it and an apartment almost of the same length at one side, whose entrance is small, and always on that side the least exposed to the wind. This edifice withstands the winters for many years.

Joao Tolo (Foolish John) is the size of a bullfinch, of a greenish changeable colour above, the belly yellow, with a white spot upon the throat, the neck very long, the bill also long and pointed. It is tame, and without any song.

Amongst various sorts of Macaricos, which inhabit the margins and lakes, there is one somewhat smaller than the thrush, ash-coloured above, and white below, with a very short tail; the legs long and green; the head large and flat, with a narrow white circle around it, which is relieved by another that is wide and black, and a collar of the same colour; the eyelids are rosy, with two ferrels or spears at the joints of the wings, which are white, with the extremities black.

Marido-he-dia (Husband it is Day) does not differ from the female of the bird called tendilhao (or chaffinch:) its song is its name badly articulated.

Morcegos, or Bats, are numerous everywhere, some being of the size of a pigeon; they are exceedingly prejudicial to cattle, to certain fruits, and to houses and churches, where they frequently discharge a black liquid that cannot be washed away.

Mutun is almost the size of a turkey-cock, of a beautiful jet black, very graceful, with a curled tuft or plume, quick eyes, the bill yellow, the legs green, and the thighs white. Its song is mournful; its flesh delicious. The female has the plume spotted.

There are also different sorts of Night-crows (Noitibos) or Coliangas, as they are commonly called. One kind frequents the margins of lakes during the day, and is of a beautiful and inimitable gray on the upper part, the lower part white, having a white spot in the middle of the wings, the extremities being black. The head is large and flat, with large black eyes. It has scarcely the appearance of a bill, with a crooked, and extremely large mouth; the largest toe, which is not proportioned to the smallness of the others, has a saw or comb towards the inner side. The flesh of this bird, when fat, is considered good.

Paho is the size of a pigeon, black, with the breast of a rosy hue, and the beak proportionate. Its flesh is also good when fat.

There are upwards of twenty sorts of Parrots, reckoning from the smallest parroquet to the arara, or macaw. The flesh of the whole is deemed good, especially that of the juru. Those which compose the last class are of three sorts: the Araruna is entirely blue; the Caninde, also blue above, with the belly of a gold colour; and others which have the lower part and the head of a rose colour.

In lakes distant from inhabited places there are large Wild Geese some gray, some white, and others coralline.

The bird called the Pavao, or Peacock, is of the size of a lark when unfeathered; but, while feathered, is larger than a thrush. It is of a beautiful, brilliant, and changeable colour, beginning with green, and finishing with a bluish green upon the back; the belly is of a rose colour; the wings small and round, and of an exquisite gray; the lower parts of the thighs are dressed in dark feathers, covering the legs, which are very delicate and short; the tail is six inches long, the two central[513] feathers are dark and of changeable colour, the four next are of a jet black, and all the six equal,—the other six have the extremities white, and gradually diminishing from the others in length: the head is rather large, covered with curled feathers, which form a little plume of dark blue; the bill is very short and a little curved, extremely wide at the root, and terminating in a point encircled with mustachoes or foretops thick and black; the eyes are large and black, with yellow eyelids.

There are five species of Partridges, all gray, and without tails. The smallest, called nambus, have a rosy beak; those called zabelez are a little larger than the European partridge, and have the legs yellow; the enapupez is still larger, with a long bill; those named macucos are more bulky, and of a dark colour, with two spurs at the joints of the wings, and a species of saw (such at least have the males) upon the hinder part of the legs; the capueiras, which are a little larger than the nambus, go in bands: all the others disperse after the mothers leave them. The whole sit upon the ground, excepting the macuco, which always perches upon a tree at night.

Peru do Mato, (the Wood Turkey,) improperly so called, is the size of a blackbird, of a dark ash colour, well furnished with feathers, which terminate like hair, the tail jet black, the bill red, thick, and pointed; when it sings it elevates the beak perpendicularly.

Queroquero, which is almost the size of a partridge, has a white belly, with the breast and throat white, of a changeable colour above, with a white spot near the wings, which are armed with two spurs, and whose largest feathers are black, much exceeding the length of the tail, which is short, with the extremity white, the eyes are green and handsome, it has the bill similar to a pigeon, green, and the end black; the head is ornamented with a small black crest, and pointed; the legs are long, and the thighs still longer, with the lower portion unfeathered and green. Its flesh is good, and it would appear not to sleep, as its cry is heard at all hours of the night. It feeds upon the margins of lakes.

The Rola, or sort of Turtle-Dove, is of various species: those called juritis are a little less than a similar kind which pass from Africa to Europe in the spring, but are not so handsome; their song, consisting of one long note, is somewhat melancholy; those called turtles de cascavel, in consequence of the rattling of their wings when they rise, are beautified with white spots, and are somewhat larger than a sparrow, they fight with their wings, and commonly procure their sustenance in bands. The third kind, called coboclas, from being the colour of a brick, are the same size as the preceding. The other sorts all pass under the name of pombas (pigeons); the cardigueras are small; those called aza branca (white wing) resemble the troquaze pigeon, or ring dove of Europe. The ring doves of the country are large, and have their beaks green; as have also those called pararis.

Sabia is a kind of thrush, and the greatest singer in the Brazil; its song does not differ from the blackbird; some, but very rarely, have the feathers and the bill yellow.

The Sahys are a species of beautiful little bird, and divided into various sorts. The sahy da secia is the size of a hedge-sparrow, having a similar beak; its sides and belly are purple, with the wings black above, and the under parts yellow, the tail black, the feet of a rose colour, the head silvery, and the eyes blue. The sahy bicudo is the size of a robin, of a green colour, with the tail and wings black, and the bill pointed. The sahy roxo (or purple sahy) is the size of a sparrow, with the tail and wings black, the head and breast purple, and the bill short and pointed. The sahy de colleira, has the form and size of a sparrow, with the head purple, the neck rosy, the belly green, the sides, wings, and tail, of a greenish hue, and the bill short. The sahy-xe, has the head, wings, and tail of a greenish colour, the breast between blue and green, and black near the blade bone or shoulders and the throat, the hinder part of the back yellow, and the beak short. The sahy papagaio is the size of a greenfinch, of a changeable colour, between blue and green, with a black tail and short bill, wide at the root and fine at the extremity.

Seriema is a little larger than the turkey-hen; its song is simple and tender, it goes generally upon the ground, and flies little.

Serrador is a small bird of a blackish colour, with the beak similar to a sparrow, it only perches upon dry and naked branches, is like the ortolan, and is incessantly rising perpendicularly two or three spans, alighting upon the same place, and keeping in its movement the time of a serra, or saw; it has no song, nor is its plumage beautiful.

Soffrer, to which the whites have given the name, pretending that it articulates the word in its inharmonious song, is little less than the blackbird, of a gold colour, with the head, throat, tail, and wings, black, excepting a white spot in the middle of the wings; the tail is long, the bill round, long, and pointed, likewise black, with two white spots on each side of the lower part; the iris yellow.

Soco is a bird comprising various kinds, the white ones are the size of a large capon, without a tail, with the legs a little long, the bill also long and blue, the fore part of the head is black, the hinder part ornamented with a long pointed crest, falling back upon the neck, which is rather long. The ash-coloured ones differ only from the preceding in colour. There is another larger than the blackbird, being two spans and a half when the wings are opened, and three from the extremity of the bill to that of the feet; it is green on the upper part, and ash-coloured below, the bill is long and pointed, the iris yellow, the neck a span in length, slightly covered with feathers, and spotted on the under side; the tail is two inches long, the head is black, with a crest.

Tapera is a little larger than the blackbird, the whole of the body white, with the head, tail, and wings black, the bill stout and pointed.

Tyhe, or Tapiranga, is much larger than the sparrow, the feathers of the wings large, and those of the tail black, the rest entirely crimson; the bill is thick and black, with two white spots upon the lower part. The tyhé negro (black tyhe) is the same size, with a green spot upon the head.

Tingara is the size of a tentilhao, or chaffinch, of a sea green colour, with the head green, the tail short, and the bill fine, short, and pointed.

Tucano is the size of a pullet, black, with the breast between green and yellow; the bill, a little curved, is of a thickness and length disproportionably large for the body. The arassary is another species of tucano, differing in the colour of the feathers; the bill is a little less and straight, its song is the name by which it is designated. The tucano builds its nest in the cavities of old trunks, lays only two eggs, and its first plumage is white, it has on each side of the head a naked portion of a red colour and varnished.

Tuyuyu is much larger than the turkey-cock, white, with the legs black, is very high, with rather a long neck, the bill pointed, without a tail, and is the height of a man; it feeds at the margins of lakes, and its sustenance is fish.

Viuva is the size of a sparrow, black, with the head white, and the tail proportioned. There is another species of viuva the size of a red robin, also black, with the head white, and the body a little large from the feathers curling very much upon the upper part; the bill is short and delicate; it always perches upon dry branches and does not sing.

Urubu is a species of vulture, of the size of a turkey-cock, black, with the head hairy like it, the bill proportioned and curved at the upper part. There are two other sorts of the urubu, both rare, the one differs only in having a portion green, the other, which is called urubu-rey, is of a whitish ash colour, with the tail and wings black, the neck absolutely naked and fleshy, the head imperfectly covered with a soft fur, the crop hairy, the eyelids green, the iris very white, and the bill black.[515] and has on the upper part of the bill a caruncle, composed of various yellow globules of divers sizes, attached to a delicate pedicle.

In the interior lakes there is a species of gull, the size of a swallow, the lower part very white, and the upper of a pearl colour; the tail forked, the wings long and narrow, with the three leading feathers black, as likewise the fore part of the head; the bill is long and yellow.

Rendeira is the size of a bullfinch and white, with the head, tail, and wings black, the bill and tail short.

Ticotico is of the size of a hedge-sparrow, having its colour almost upon the sides, with the belly yellow, and a white semicircle above the eyes.

Tacoara is larger than a blackbird, of a greenish colour, with the tail very long, the upper part of the head a gold colour, having a large black spot round the eyes.

PHYTOLOGY.

Perhaps no country in the world presents such an infinite variety of vegetation as the Brazil, or so spacious a field for the labours of the botanist. It abounds in a diversity of excellent timber, dye-woods, and medicinal plants. Nature, here so spontaneous, has not, amongst its innumerable indigenous species, any plants and trees of the European world. The colonists have naturalized a great number, but they do not prosper so well as in their native soil. Those of Africa and Asia sustain no injury when planted in the same latitude. The olive-tree grows little, soon droops, and does not fructify in the torrid zone. The chestnut-tree is only known in the southern provinces, where peaches grow in perfection; also the apple, plum, and cherry trees. The pomegranite and quince also prosper in the torrid zone. The vine and fig grow generally, but more especially out of the tropic. Oranges, of which there are various kinds, grow universally. Grain does not grow in all the provinces, with the exception of rice and Indian corn. Water-melons are every where excellent; the melon is good only in a few places. The cabbage and lettuce are cultivated, together with other indigenous hortulans unknown in Europe. The pea, bean, and turnip are little cultivated; with these were also naturalized rosemary, rue, wormwood, lavender, parsley, coriander, aniseed, mint, the pink, and jasmine. The rose-tree has a great enemy in the ant: its flower is not handsome.

Amongst other trees of excellent wood for building, carpenter and joiner’s work, are the ajetahypeta, buranhe, cedar, conduru, coraçao de negro, (negro’s heart,) gonçalo alves, jacaranda, jacarandatan, jacarando-mulato, jequitiba, jetahy, loiro, massaranduba, mocetahyba, mocuhyba, which is high, having a small tuft, similar to a parasol, and affords a small walnut, somewhat like an olive, with a thin and smooth rind, inclosing an oval kernel, from which is extracted an oil that is applied to various seus, brahuna, or maria preto, olandim, bow wood, oil wood, violet wood, peguim, putumuju, oyty, oytycica, itapicuru, sapucaya, sebastiao d’arruda, male and female, sucupira, sucupirassu, vinhatica, sassafras, and many more.

Alecrim Brazilico (Brazilian Rosemary) is a shrub, only similar to that of its name in the colour of its flower, bark, and wood; the leaf resembles that of mint, but is small, with the smell of savory. There is another sort of rosemary, which differs only from the latter in its flower, which is white and formed like that of savory. Both grow best in a dry and sandy soil.[516] Algodeira, or Cotton-Tree, is a shrub which begins to ramify immediately on appearing, its leaves resembling the vine leaf. It has five large yellow petals, encircling each other; a great number of capillaments united in one column, in the centre of which a pistil arises to a greater height, of whose germ a capsule is formed more than two inches in length, triangular, and enclosing in three lodgements a great number of seed, resembling that of the pear, contiguous and in two orders, and unfolding in a white and long cotton wool, supplying the most extensive branch of commerce in the Brazil.

The Ambuzeiro, or Ambuzo Tree, is of small size, and grows in sterile lands, not requiring any culture. It begins to have branches on issuing from the ground, and they are exceedingly intertwined with each other; the leaves are small, elliptical, and varnished on both sides; the flower is in small bunches, like the olive-tree; the fruit is similar in appearance to the sloe, between a green and white colour, having a thick skin, disagreeable to the taste, with a large round stone, never separating from the pulp, which resolves itself into a thick fluid, generally pleasant when ripe. It is much esteemed in the certams, particularly by the quadrupeds. The people of the country make of its fluid and curdled milk, well mixed together, and sweetened with sugar or honey, a beverage, which they call ambuzada, and say that it might do for a royal repast. This tree produces at the root one large potatoe, and sometimes more, and also small ones of a spongy and transparent substance, which turn into cold water on being compressed, and is a great resource to caravans and travellers passing plains devoid of water.

Andiroba is a plant, very similar to that of a cucumber, affording a round fruit, without smell, the size of a large apple, with eleven or twelve seeds, round and flat, disposed in three cavities or cells, from which is extracted a clear medicinal oil, being also good for lights.

Angelim is a tree of medium height, having many branches, the leaf small, the flower, with five petals in an ear, between a violet and rose-colour, having a pistil and nine capillaments; the fruit is a two-valved capsule of an ash-colour, affording an oval almond, covered with a thick membrane, and which is used in pharmacy.

Araca Mirim is a tree of considerable growth, with a small leaf; the bark is as smooth on the epidermis as the inner side.

Argueiro, or Argua-Tree, is the size of the olive-tree, its trunk and branches overspread with short prickles; the leaves, which it annually sheds, are of the shape of a heart; the flowers are in bunches, of one or two spans in length, at the extremity of the branches, disposed three and three; it has five petals of which one only unfolds itself, this is of a beautiful rose-colour, with little less than two inches of length, and more than one in width. Upon the lower part of the pistil, which is amongst ten capillaments, there is a pod, containing an indeterminate number of feijoes, or beans, entirely of a red colour, or with black spots; they are very hard, and bracelets are made of them. It is one of the most beautiful trees in the country when in flower, in which state it remains for some time.

The Artecum, or Araticu, of which there are various kinds, is similar to the ambuzo in size, in the entwining of its branches, and in having an ash-coloured rind. The leaves, which it casts off annually, are almost round, and of a beautiful green, and varnished on both sides. Its flower is like a fig, of a yellow colour, which opens in three equal portions, as if they were parted with a knife, are thick, of a reddish hue, and in the form of a shell; below each portion there is a smaller shell, not so thick, and externally white, inclosing a button in the shape of a pine, which becomes a fruit of the size and form of the largest pear; the pulp is white or yellow, soft and full of pips; few are good, but they are generally eaten.

The Barriguda, (Big-bellied,) so called in consequence of its trunk being thicker at the middle[517] than at the ground, and otherwise denominated Arvore da lan, (Wool-Tree,) has the rind covered with round thorns, the leaves are almost elliptical, and from three to four inches in length. The flower begins with the figure of a little round fig, smooth, without an eye, having a short and thick pedicle; this fig has the length and form of an acorn, being always of a green colour, it opens at the extremity in three parts, from whence issues a bud similar to that of cotton, round, and two inches long, which unfolds in five petals three inches in length. It has five capillaments surrounded with a pistil, which is delicate and terminates in a little red ball, the whole six attached to a receptacle at the bottom of a cup, where a fruit is formed with some resemblance to a cucumber, which, when it opens, is full of fine white wool, which the wind blows away if not immediately taken; it cannot be spun, but it is used for stuffing beds.

There are three sorts of Brazil Wood;—Brazil Mirim, which is the best; Brazil Assu, or Rozado, so called from its trunk being higher, more upright, of less girth, and the dye which is extracted from it of less consistency and more rosy, hence arises its second name. The Brazileto differs little from the Assu in size, in the form of its trunk and tuft, and affords little dye. The Brazil Mirim has a larger trunk, the rind greener and finer, the thorns smaller and thicker, the leaf smaller, and the wood more of a purple hue. The bark of the whole is smooth and the thorns begin at the shoot and extend to the point of the branches. The flower of the Mirim is white and very small; the wood, immediately on being cut, if put to the tongue, is sensibly bitter, which, on becoming dry, it loses, turning to an agreeable sweetness. These trees grow on rocks as well as in plains. The wood is heavy and excellent for building; put into water it will remain sound, it is said, eternally; put into the fire it breaks in pieces, but does not produce any smoke. It is said, that the most proper periods for cutting this timber for its dye is at the time of the new moon in winter, and when in the fourth quarter in summer. A portion of vitriol and lime, or ashes thrown into the decoction of the Brazil wood forms a black dye.

Cacauzeira, or Cocoa-Tree, which generally does not exceed the size of a small tree, almost always has many trunks, and extends its branches horizontally and incliningly; the leaves resemble those of the largest chestnut; its fruit, which grows only upon the trunks and thickest branches, is a large oblong capsule, in the shape of a mellon, with a very hard rind, which encloses forty to fifty almonds in a white, viscous, and sweet substance. Of these almonds chocolate is made.

Cafeeiro, or Coffee-Tree, transplanted from Arabia, and prospering admirably in the strong and fresh soils of this country, is a branchy shrub, with the leaves opposite, which are smooth, pointed at both extremities, and larger than those of the laurel; the flower is white, entire, and tubulous on the lower part, and cleft into five lancet points on the upper, with the same number of capillaments attached to the angle of the divisions, and a pistil to the receptacle. The fruit is a berry, somewhat resembling a cherry, attached to a thick and short pedicle. It is exceedingly fruitful, and grows to the greatest size when planted under the shade of large trees; but the fruit of those trees exposed to the sun is of the best quality.

Cajaty is a shrub with a very thick rind, black, and furrowed with the first bark, the leaf differs little from the laurel, and affords a yellow fruit the size of the sloe, having an agreeable taste and perfume, with seed like the orange, and attached to the extremity of the branch by a long and delicate pedicle.

Cajazeira, or Cajaza-Tree, is high, with a round tuft and small leaf, its fruit is like the acorn, yellow, insipid, and with a large stone.

The Cajueira, or Cajue-nut Tree, which grows in sandy soils, is a small tree with a crooked trunk,[518] a round tuft, with the branches raised horizontally and inclined; the first rind affords a sort of black dye; the wood a yellow one; the leaves are almost round; the flower in bunches; its singular fruit is of the size and figure of a long round pepper, with a fine smooth skin, tinged with red or yellow, and sometimes with both, with a white spongy substance, half sweet, without stone or seed; the taste is not agreeable, although many persons are partial to this fruit; it has at the extremity a nut of an ash-colour, containing a white and oily substance, and not unlike the chestnut when roasted. Excellent sweetmeats are made of the fruit, and also a lemonade and even wine of its juice.

Calumby, or Calumbo-Tree, is small, with little tuft, having exceedingly small leaves, which close when the sun sets and open in the morning. There are male and female, both armed with thorns like the bramble; the male has a very small flower, resembling a paint-brush, and its wood is green, hard, compact, and very heavy, being only serviceable for joiners’ work, as scarcely one is found, even amongst the most slender, without being hollow. The female has a flower resembling the chestnut-tree, and its timber, although solid, is not so heavy, and is waved with green and white. The fruit of both are flat berries.

Candea (Lamp) is a crooked shrub, with a large stock, the leaf is generally white on the under side; the wood, when dried, affords a good light without smoke, and saving much oil to the poor of the certams, who put a fire-brand of it into the wall, where it lasts for a long time, giving a flame like a flambeau; hence comes its denomination. When put into the ground it keeps many years.

Caneleira, Canela or Cinnamon Tree, was transplanted from Asia, and was cultivated with some care at the commencement of the colonization, but was afterwards destroyed, by royal order, that it might not interfere with the oriental trade; this error was soon discovered. At present the increase of those which spring from roots is preferred; the quality of the soil in which it should be planted depends upon the vegetable. The best Asiatic cinnamon-trees grow in dry soils.

Colla is a tree introduced from Africa, of medium size, with leaves rather long, pointed, and shining on both sides; the flower is white and in bunches. It fructifies in a pod.

Cutezeira, or Cuteza-Tree, is small, with horizontal branches, and the leaves rather long, smooth, wide, rounded at the point, and pointed at the base; it affords a large oval fruit with a hard shell, of which, when parted, is made cuyas, or cups.

Gamelleira, or Gamella-Tree, is of considerable girth, having a round and thick leaf; it extends roots from the branches to the ground; its shade is sought after.

Geremma is a small thorny tree with very small leaves, which daily close from the influence of the sun; the flower resembles that of the chestnut; of its wood charcoal is made for forges.

Goyabeira, or Goyaba-Tree, is a shrub with a smooth rind, the leaf almost round, the fruit, like a pear, is yellow and odoriferous, the pulp is rubicund, with a great quantity of small and round seed in the centre. A preserve much esteemed is made of it.

Guabirabeira, or Guabiraba-Tree, is one of the largest fruit-trees in the country; its leaf is a little less than that of the peach, and almost of the same shape; the flower is white; the fruit has the size and form of a pear, and is eaten in the same way as sorvas or service-berries.

Herva de Cobra (Serpent-Herb) is a small plant resembling a little the fern in its foliage, the flower is small and yellow, with five petals, and its fruit is a very little berry. The name arises from its virtue in curing the bite of a snake by placing the leaves pounded upon the wound and giving the patient the juice to drink.

The Jabuticabeira, or Jabuticaba-Tree, is small and slender, with smooth bark; the leaves, which are varnished on both sides, but not of the same green, vary in form upon the same branch. It[519] flowers upon the trunk only, beginning at the ground, and extending to the branches, that are thick; the fruit is generally of the size and colour of a cherry, and of a good flavour; a strong liquor is distilled from it.

The Jambeira, or Jamba-Tree, whose size is proportioned to the quality of the ground upon which it grows, has a pointed leaf, with dark green on the upper side, and clear green on the under; the flower has four small petals in the form of a shell, with numerous long and upright capillaments, and a pointed pistil still longer; its fruit resembles an apricot, has a fine flavour, and smells like a rose.

The Jaqueira, or Jaca-Tree, transplanted from Asia, and prospering only in the tropics, is a large tree, with a round tuft, a thick trunk, large leaves rounded at the extremity and pointed at the base, varnished on both sides, the upper one of dark green. Its fruit, which only grows upon the trunk and main branches, is very large, (some forty pounds weight,) of an oblong form; the skin is green, rough-grained, and thick; the white pulp is fibrous, and impregnated with viscous milk; but it has another pulp, sown promiscuously with a sort of almond, less fibrous, without milk, and sweet, and which is the part eaten.

Jatuba, which has not this name in all the provinces, fructifies in husks like the tamarind-tree.

Jenipapeiro, or Jenipapo-Tree, is of good height with the trunk erect, the tuft round and of medium size; the leaf is similar to that of the chestnut, very thick, and of a dark green; it is never without fruit, which is the size of an apple, the skin tenuous, a little harsh, and of an ash colour, the pulp is white, and the interior full of seed. They remain from one year to the next upon the branches, which wholly shed their foliage, and only change when the tree puts forth its new leaves, and when already the new fruit, for the following year, is of good growth. Its wood is preferred for the shafts of the sege, or cabriolet.

The Joazeiro, or Joaza-Tree, which grows in sandy soils, is of the size of a middling olive-tree; its tuft is round and thick; the leaves, which it scarcely sheds, are round and carefully protected; its wood is white, and its ashes are a good substitute for soap. The flower is in small and round bunches; the fruit is of the size of a cherry, oblong, yellow, disagreeable to the touch, and with a stone (full of smaller ones) which is difficult to divest of the pulp when the fruit is not half dried. It is aliment for some quadrupeds, and for the jacu and other birds, although few are well flavoured.

Mangabeira, or Mangaba-Tree, is of medium size, with small pointed leaves, and a flower like the jasmine; the fruit is round and of various sizes upon the same branch, with a yellow and greenish rind; the pulp white, extremely soft, with various seeds covered with down; the wood, the leaves, the flowers, and the fruit, when parted, distil a clammy and white milk.

The Mangue is a small tree, with a smooth rind, thick and varnished leaves. It prospers only upon the sea-coast or the margins of salt rivers.

The Mangueira, or Mangua-Tree, transplanted from Asia, and prospering only in the torrid zone, is a bulky tree, with a leafy tuft, having a long leaf a little narrow and pointed. The fruit is the size of an apple and a little flat, the skin similar to a greengage, green or yellow, and tinged sometimes with red; when divested of the skin, which has a turpentine taste, the pulp is juicy and delicious, although unpleasantly full of fibres attached to the stone.

Mozes is a tree of medium height, slender, with little tuft, remarkable for its foliage, which does not differ from the fern; its flower is white, and its ashes are good for the lixivium of soap.

Mucory is a large tree of excellent timber; its fruit is of the size of a sloe, yellow, and odoriferous, of very fine flavour, and has a large stone.

Muricy is a shrub, with large thick and harsh leaves, rounded at the end and pointed at the base; the flowers are in bunches, beginning with yellow and turning to a carnation colour; the fruit is very small, with little flavour. There is another called muricy-bravo, (or wild,) differing in the flower, which is white, and in the leaves, which are much less elliptical and varnished on both sides.

Oyty is a middling tree, of good timber, with fruit well flavoured, and of the colour and form of a pear, with a large stone, which, when ground or scraped, and used as a beverage or as a clyster, is an efficacious remedy against diarrhæas.

The Palm-tree of Dates, which is so abundant in Asia and Africa, are introduced only, and very partially, in the province of Rio de Janeiro.

Amongst the multiplied species of Palm-trees that denominated Tucum or Tycum is particularly remarkable; its trunk is thorny, slender, and of proportionable size; its leaves differ a little from the common resemblance observed amongst all the other palm-trees; from its fibres a flax is made that is a little harsh, but as lustrous as silk, without any appearance of the coarsest description of flax, and which, from its strength, is generally consumed in making fishing-tackle. It is well adapted for making a certain sort of lace.

Pindahiba is a handsome tree, and of proportionable size according to the quality of the soil in which it grows; its wood is light; its leaves are lancet, one inch in width, and from three to four in length; it fructifies in very small bunches, and its berries are sometimes used as peppers.

Piquiha, is a medium-sized tree, affording fruit like the quince, with a thick and hard rind, and full of a gray liquor, very sweet and cooling, with some seed like those of an apple.

Pitangueira, or Pitanga-Tree, which reaches the size of a plum-tree when planted in good ground, but generally not exceeding the size of a middling shrub in the woods; its leaf resembles that of the myrtle; the flower is white and small, with a great number of capillaments; the fruit is the size of an unripe cherry, of a scarlet or purple colour, and rather sour. An agreeable spirit is distilled from it.

Quinaquina, the Jesuit or Peruvian Bark, was discovered about three centuries ago in Peru, and met with only a few years since near the heads of the river Cuiaba; it is a high tree, nine inches in diameter; the leaves are round at the base and pointed at the end, glossy and of a beautiful green above, and striped with a brilliant dark green in the half near the base. The flowers, which are in bunches at the extremity of the branches, are shaped like a funnel, with the edge parted into five lancet forms, and shorter than the tube, hairy, green in the middle, bounded with white, and fringed at the borders. The pistil is white, and surrounded with five capillaments, within the tube of the flower. When the flower falls the cup swells at the middle, and takes the shape of an olive, changing into a fruit, whose numerous seed, which are long, thick, of a green colour, and flat at the edge, are enclosed in two lodgements, divided by a double membrane. Thus a tree so useful to mankind is propagated abundantly.

Amongst the Resin-Trees are the Angico, which produce the gum-copal; those that produce mastick, benzoin, and storax; amongst those that distil balsam are the cabureigba, better known by the name of Balsam of the Holy Spirit, the cupahybu, or capivi, and the cumaru.

Amongst the medicinal plants is noted sarsaparilla, ipecacuhana, jalap, butua, purging cassia, quassia, aristoloquia, or hart-wort, cahinana, Jesuit’s bark of the country, ginger, capeba, commonly called herb of St. Luzia, from its great virtue on application to diseases of the eyes. It is said that a surgeon of Rio de Janeiro, in the year 1784, by only using the juice of this plant, in the course of three months, restored the eye of a soldier to its former state, which had been injured by[521] the point of a bayonet. Marvellous cures are related of this vegetable, which is said to regenerate the sight; experiments have been made by perforating the eye of a cock with sharp instruments, and on applying the juice or even the milk of this herb it is asserted that the eye has been cured in a few hours, and the sight restored. The curucu, whose juice, when drunk with water, is an efficacious stiptic for a bleeding at the mouth. There is also betony, ground-ivy, but very different from that of Europe, with a leaf resembling the rosemary, and a small white flower in a species of artichoke; the herva ferro (iron herb); the herbs mercury, eurucucu, and mallows; orelha d’onça, (ear of the ounce,) generally two feet in height, the leaf like a heart, flat, and hairy on both sides, of a pearl colour, and as flexible when dried as when green; the plant called hervachumbo; and many others.

Sapucaya is a high tree of good timber, with a leaf similar to that of the peach; the bark, softened, produces a tow for caulking vessels. Its produces a very large spherical nut, full of long almonds. For their extraction nature has formed an orifice at the extremity four inches in diameter, covered with a lid of the same size, which has over it an outer rind similar to that of the whole nut, and of which it is necessary to strip it in order to find the entrance. The monkeys, by instinct, shake off this species of cocoa-nut when ripe, and with a stone, or hard piece of wood displace the lid and eat the almonds.

St. Caetano is a delicate plant, resembling that of a water-melon; its fruit is a species of small cucumber and thorny; it opens in three portions when ripe, exhibiting some small seed similar to those of the pomegranite. It is the sustenance of birds, who, carrying its seed, propagate it in all parts. This plant is applied to various domestic purposes, and augments the properties of soap in its ordinary use; on this account it was transplanted from the coast of Guinea, where it is called Nheziken, and being planted near a chapel of St. Caetano, took the name of that saint.

Tababuya is a tree remarkable for the lightness of its wood, of which scarcely any thing is made besides corks and floats for fishing-nets; it resists all instruments except such as are used for cork¬cutting.

Taruman is a shrub with lancet leaves of unequal size; the tea of these leaves have a diluent effect upon stones in the bladder.

Theu is a delicate sipo or plant of long and flexible shoots, scarcely exceeding the thickness of a hen’s quil, but of extraordinary growth, always winding round other larger plants and trees. I have seen them so firmly entwined round orange-trees that the prosperity and fructification of the tree was impeded by them; its leaf is exceedingly small, resembling that of the broom; the root is nearly two yards in length, having a strong smell, and operating as an emetic, and is an approved remedy against the venom of snakes.

A great diversity of piratical trees or plants are observed in the Brazil, fixed to the bark or body of others, and nourished alone by their substance. In some parts there are divers species of climbers which rise to the top of the highest trees, sometimes unaccompanied, at other times twisted spirally with another of the same, or of a different species. Occasionally these prodigiously long cords have four, six, or more legs, or shoots.

Tinguy is a small tree with the branches and leaves alternate; the latter are small and lancet. The bark and leaves well pounded, and put into lakes, &c. cause the fish to die, from becoming soon intoxicated with it.

The Urucu does not in general exceed the size of a large shrub; the leaves are in the form of a heart, and the flowers in bunches with fine petals a little purpled, a pistil, and a great number of[522] capillaments; the fruit is a capsule, a little flat and pointed, of the size of a large chestnut, and of a green colour, composed of two valves or folds, covered with fine soft thorns, and lined with a membrane that encircles a large quantity of small seed, having over them a green substance which, when diluted in water, affords a precious dye. The Indians are not ignorant of this, and use it to paint their bodies.

Vinhatico is a high and straight tree of yellow wood, and fructifies in pods with beans.

There are a variety of edible roots:—potatoes of various kinds; mandioca, of which is made the usual bread of the country; its plant, of which there are various sorts, is a shrub of one or more stems; the root, after being scraped and reduced to flour, is pressed until exhausted of its abundant juice, which is generally poisonous, and is ultimately toasted in a large earthern or copper vessel over a furnace till it becomes dry; this vegetable prospers well only in substantial soils: it is planted in little mounds of earth, by putting into each half the stock of the plant, which is a span in length. The aypim is a species of mandioca, whose root is boiled or roasted. The mendubim is a plant of little growth, with leaves similar to the French bean, producing beans at the root with a gray skin, which encloses from one to three small seed. The potatoe do ar, a creeping plant, without a flower preceding it, produces a fruit of irregular form, without stone or seed, is covered with a thin and green skin, and has the taste of the potatoe.

Besides the fruits mentioned there are many others, amongst which are the pine, or atta, the size of a quince, with a white, soft, and savoury pulp; the conde, which is of the size of the preceding, with the pulp equally soft, but not so white; the mammao is larger, with a smooth and yellow skin, and the pulp of the same colour; the pitomba; the mocuge; of the banana, whose length exceeds many times its diameter, there are three sorts, the whole having a thick skin, and clustered upon one stalk; the plant which produces them is of considerable growth, without either branches or wood in the trunk; the leaves are very long, slender, and smooth, with proportionable width, and the back fibres very thick; the trunk is formed of the leaves firmly woven together, being two or three yards in height, round, erect, and inflexible, the leaves branching out from it at the top. The pine-apple, resembling a pine, with various leaves in the eye, is of delicious flavour and aromatic scent; the plant from whose centre it issues is very similar to the aloe. The muracuja is of the size of an orange, oblong and regular, with a thick and hard skin, green on the outside and white within; it is full of gross and rather sour liquid, containing seeds similar to those of the melon.

The sugar-cane, mandioca, tobacco, and the matte-plant, are all indigenous, and now cultivated to a great extent with considerable advantage, furnishing many lucrative branches of commerce.

The indigo-plant and opuncia are met with almost in all parts; the first, which only prospers in strong soils, is yet cultivated but in few provinces. There are a diversity of peppers; that of Malabar, which only thrives in substantial and fresh soils, has been cultivated only within a few years.

The plant commonly called malicia de mulker (woman’s malice) is a creeping and thorny twig, with very small foliage, whose little leaves obtain their opposite one’s, when they immediately adhere, so that the twig is encircled, and remains in this state for a considerable time.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Eight successive days after a festival.

[2] “The said small vessels found a reef with a port within, very fine and very secure, with a very large entrance, and they put themselves within it.” Also, “and all the ships entered and anchored in five and six fathoms, which anchorage within is so grand, so beautiful, and so secure, that there could lie within it more than two hundred ships and men of war.”

[3] “We showed them a grey parrot, which the captain had brought with him; they took it immediately into their hands. We showed them a sheep, they took no notice of it. We showed them a fowl; they were afraid of it, and would not put their hands upon it.”

[4] “I kiss the hands of your Royal Highness from this secure port of your island of Vera Cruz. To-day, Friday, first day of May, 1500. P. V. de Caminha.”

[5] “L’altro giorno che fu alli dua di Maggio del derto anno 1500 l’armata fece vela pel camino per andare alla volta del capo di Buona Speraza. Li quali comincioro no a piangere, et gli huomini di quella terra, gli confortavano, et mostravano havere di loro pieta.”—Ramuzio.

[6] “We arrived at the Cape of Good Hope at Easter-tide, and there met with good weather. We continued the voyage, and arrived at Besengue, near Cape Verd, where we met with three caravels, which the King of Portugal had sent to discover the new land, which we had found in going to Calcutta.”—From the relation of the voyage of Cabral in Ramuzio.

[7] “The relations of A. Vespuccius contain the recital of two voyages, which he made upon the same coast (the Brazil), in the name of Emanuel, King of Portugal; but the dates are false, and it is in that which the imposture consists; for it is proved by all the cotemporary testimonies, that at the time which he names he was employed upon other expeditions.”—Hist. Gen. des Voyages, tom. 14. liv. 6. c. 9. Paris, 1757.

[8] This is a corroboration of Vincente Yanez Pinson’s voyage, as the character of the Indians near those two same places where he landed are described to be similar.

[9] “The King, Don Manuel, extremely attached to Vespuccius, gave him the command of six ships, with which he sailed on the 10th of May, 1503, and passed along the coast of Africa and Brazil, with the intention of discovering a western passage to the Molucca Islands, (afterwards discovered.) “After entering the Bay of All Saints, he navigated as far as the Abrolhos and the river Curababa. As he had provisions only for twenty months, he took the resolution of returning to Portugal, where he arrived on the 18th of June, 1504.”—Murery Dicc. Grand. Paris, 1699.

[10] “Ordered immediately to be prepared another armament of caravels, which he delivered to C. Jacques, a fidalgo of his house, and with the title of Captain Mor, ordered him to continue in this undertaking of discovery. The armament sailed, and pursuing the voyage, arrived upon the coast, sounding bays and rivers, erecting pillars with the Portuguese arms upon them. He entered a bay to which he gave the name of All Saints, and after all necessary diligence he returned to Portugal.”—Cunha.

[11] “In the same year, 1503, Gonsallo Coelho was sent to the land of St. Cruz, with six ships, with which he left Lisbon on the 10th day of the month of June. In consequence of not having much knowledge of the land, four were lost, and the other two brought to the kingdom merchandise of the land, which then were no others than red wood, which was called Brazil, and parrots.”—Goes.

[12] An overlooker of negroes.

[13] To kiss his hand.

[14] No one had suffered the penalty of death for a long period before July 22, 1819, when a wretched criminal was hanged. He had stabbed five or six men, and it was said his punishment would have been commuted for transportation to Africa, had he not imbrued his hands in the blood of a pregnant female, whom he stabbed mortally.

[15] These parishes in the Brazil are considerable districts of country, and take their names generally from the chief or mother church.

[16] Mr. Langsdorff has recently (since his return to Europe) presented to the National Institute of Paris the head of a Botocudo Indian, who had been in his service for some years. He sent this Indian to St. Helena to collect insects, which commission he executed satisfactorily, and died soon after his return to the Brazil.

The Botocudos are really the Aymores of the province of Porto Seguro, and received their present name from the Portuguese, in consequence of their custom of perforating the ears and lips, and introducing pieces of wood as ornaments, which they imagine render them more genteel and comely.

[17] This denomination originated in Portugal, where the judge was prohibited from having any jurisdiction within his native town. Hence it is applied to judges in the Brazil, universally, without the capital.

[18] The Torres are two great and contiguous rocks, upon the coast, in 29° 40′ south latitude.

[19] Sumacas are from ten to nearly two hundred tons burden.

[20] Bandeira is a name given in the Brazil to an indeterminate number of persons, who provide themselves with arms, ammunition, and every thing requisite for their subsistence, with the project of entering the territories of the Indians, for the purpose of discovering mines, exploring the country, or chastising the savages; the individuals who compose those companies, call themselves bandeirantes, and their chiefs, certanistas.

[21] Pantanos signifies marshy, and is the name given to the swampy islands at the mouth of the Tocoary, which are submerged at the floods.

[22] “By the treaty of limits, liberty was given to these Indians to remain in the country or to pass to the other side of the Guapore, which latter they did by the persuasions of the Spanish curates. The mission of St. Roza, which consisted of four hundred Indians, and removed in 1754, was near a waterfall, where D. Antonio Rolin ordered a fort to be constructed. That of St. Miguel, which was in a plain near the river, and had six hundred Indians, was removed in 1753; and that of St. Simao, which comprised more than two thousand inhabitants, and was removed in 1752, existed near a river a little below the situation of the Pedras.” Extract from the History of the Journeys of the Lieutenant-General of Matto Grosso. M.S.

[23] Passo is a picture or image representing some of our Saviour’s sufferings.

[24] The interior districts of provinces are so called.

[25] A bowl into which diamonds are put when found, from whence they are taken, weighed, and registered daily.

[26] He acquired the appellation of Caramuru, which signifies “a man of fire,” on the occasion of his first discharging a musket in the presence of the astonished Indians.

[27] “Where there was a Portuguese, who said he had lived twenty-five years amongst the Indians,” proving Correa’s shipwreck to be in 1510.

[28] The province is designated, as well as the city, by the Portuguese word for bay, from the great importance justly attached to its fine bay.

[29] “Sepulchre of Donna Catharine Alvarez, Lady of this Captaincy of Bahia, which she, and her husband, James Alvarez Correa, a native of Vianna, gave to the Kings of Portugal, and erected and gave this chapel to the patriarch St. Bento. The year 1582.”

[30]

The Don of the land is arrived,

The one hundred and fifty are ended.

[31]

The Don of the land is on the main,

The one hundred and fifty remain.

[32] The precarious nature of the tobacco trade is evidenced by a shipment made of this article from Bahia to London, where on its arrival it was unsaleable; the agent, therefore, reshipped it for Gibraltar, drawing for the freight and charges he had paid. On its arrival in Gibraltar, it was there equally unsaleable; and, after being deposited some time in a warehouse, it was discovered to be rotten, and condemned by government to be thrown into the sea; after which the agent there had to draw also for the freight and charges that he had paid, in which was included the expense of throwing the tobacco into the sea. The shippers, no doubt, considered the termination of this speculation as unpalatable as the element to which it was finally consigned.

[33] One thousand reas, or a milrea, is now worth about five shillings, and varies according to the exchange.

[34] “Oh! what a beautiful situation for founding a town.” Hence its name of Ollinda.

[35] Some writers have stated that this Duarthe Coelho Pereyra served as a military man in India; but Duarthe Coelho, of whose military exploits there Barros and Farria both speak, had not the surname of Pereyra. He died by the hands of the Moors of the island of Sumatra, after having suffered shipwreck at the mouth of the river Calapa, in 1527.

[36] The Dutch armament, commanded by Admiral Hervey Zonk, consisting of sixty-four vessels, of various sizes, and eight thousand men, landed, on the 15th of February, 1630, on the beach of Pau Amarello, three leagues north of Ollinda, by the direction of Judea Antonio Dias, who had resided many years in the country and acquired a large fortune, with which he established himself at Amsterdam. In 1654 the Dutch evacuated the captaincy.

[37] A capibara, the animal from which this river takes its name, is now in Exeter Change.

[38] Ollinda, although the head of a comarca, being commonly considered, with Recife, to constitute the city of Pernambuco, they will be described together.

[39] A Brazilian term for the Indian.

[40]

Erected
under
the Illustrious Government
of the
President and Council
in the year 1652.

[41] Some of these people are also called certanejos, inhabitants of the certams, or interior.

[42] I have been informed, since my return to England, that a clergyman had arrived at Pernambuco.

[43] Great River of the North; as there is Rio Grande do Sul, (Great River of the South,) and which must occasion some little confusion, both being called Rio Grande: it would be better to designate this St. Roque, the cape being even a more conspicuous object than the river.

[44] The Spaniards, from whom the French took this portion of territory, always recognized the river Oayapoek and the Vincent Pinson as the same river; and near its mouth a marble stone was erected, by order of Charles V. to serve as a limit between his conquests and those of the Portuguese.

[45]

Conserva o tardo impulso por tal modo,

Que em poucos passos mette um dia todo.

Cant. vii. p. 57.

[46] Inhabiting the calingas.

[47] Inhabiting the campos, or plains.

[48] Correiçao is a term applied to a judge going out to travel through the district of his jurisdiction.

Transcriber’s Notes:

1. Obvious printers’, punctuation and spelling errors have been corrected silently.

2. Where hyphenation is in doubt, it has been retained as in the original.

3. Some hyphenated and non-hyphenated versions of the same words have been retained as in the original.

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CITIES.	DISTRICTS.
Cape Frio.	Cape Frio.
St. Sebastian (commonly called Rio de Janeiro)	Rio de Janeiro.
TOWNS.	DISTRICTS.
Marica.	Rio de Janeiro.
Macacu.	Ditto.
Mage.	Ditto.
Villanova.	Ditto.
Parati.	Ilha Grande.
Angra.	Ditto.
Rezende.	Parahiba Nova.
St. Joao Marcos.	Ditto.
St. Joao de Maccahe.	Cape Frio.
St. Salvador.	Goytacazes.
St. Joao de Parahiba.	Ditto.
Canta-Gallo.	Canta-Gallo.

	INHABITANTS.
St. Francisco de Borja	1,300
St. Miguel	1,900
St. Joam	1,600
St. Angelo	1,960
St. Nicolau	3,940
St. Lourenço	960
St. Luiz	2,350

4,216	fogos, or houses.
23,865	adult inhabitants, exclusive of paid troops.
3	sugar engenhos, or works.
192	distilleries of rum.
4	engenhos for pounding rice.
297	wind and horse mills.
884	bolandeiras for grinding mandioca.
32	tan-pits.

The central district comprises		Matto Grosso, on the west.
		Cuiaba, central.
		Bororonia, on the east.
The northern district comprises		Juruenna, on the west.
		Arinos, central.
		Tappiraquia, on the east.

	GEN. LINGUA.	GUAYCURU.
Sun	Araci	A’liga
Moon	Jaci	Pannay (used by the men only)
Moon	Jaci	Epannay (women)
White	Tinga	Lapaca
Black	Una	Nabidre
Great	Guassu	Elodo

Brother	Enduva	Nixo
Salt	Juki	Juki
Ostrich	Ema	Apacanigo
Ostrich	Guaripe	Apacanigo
Crocodile	Jacare	Nioxe
Horse	Cavaru	Apolicano
Pig	Taycu	Nigda
Dog	Jaguara	Niknik
Wolf	Guara	Tiglicon
Cat	Bracaya	Perixene
Man	Apuaba	Hulegre
Demon, or Evil Spirit	Anhanga	Nanigogigo
Diviner	Page	Unigenito

Guianna		All bordering in part upon the coast.
Para
Maranham
Siará
Rio Grande, North
Parahiba
Pernambuco
Seregipe d’El Rey
Bahia
Porto Seguro
Espirito Santo
Rio de Janeiro
St. Paulo
St. Catharina
Rio Grande, South
Mato Grosso		Interior provinces.
Paraná
Uruguay
Solimoes
Piauhy
Minas Geraes
Goyaz

Beira-Mar		Ilha Grande.
		Rio de Janeiro.
		Cape Frio.
		Goytacazes.
Serra-Acima		Parahiba-Nova.
		Canto-Gallo.

St. Joze		on the continent;
St. Miguel
Nosso Senhora do Rozario
Santa Anna
Nosso Senhora da Conceiçao		in the island of St. Catharina.
Nosso Senhora da Lapa
Nosso Senhora das Necessidades

Cayaponia		in the western portion.
Goyaz
Nova Beira
Tucantines		in the eastern.
Parannan
Rio das Velhas

COMARCAS.		TOWNS.
Villa Rica		Villa
Villa Rica		Marianna
Rio das Mortes		St. Joam d’el Rey
		St. Joze
		Queluz
		St. Carlos de Jacuhy
		St. Maria de Baependy
		Campanha
		Barbacena
		Tamandua
Sabara		Sabara
		Caethe
		Pitangui
		Paracatu
Serro do Frio		Villa do Principe
Serro do Frio		Fanado

Second	Branco dez	No. 10.
Third	Branco onze	11.
Fourth	Branco doze	12.

		SUGAR.				TOBACCO.					COTTON.			MOLASSES.
To what Places the Vessels belong.	Number of vessels.	Cases.	Boxes.	Barrels.	Arrobas.	Rolls.	½ Rolls.	Arrobas.	Bales.	Arrobas.	Bags.	Arrobas.	Hides.	Pipes.	Barrels.	Solas.	Casks of Rum.
Lisbon	24	9,828	381	—	399,021	8,101	——	107,153	843	18,657	1,054	6,324	46,037	255	37	7,350	225
Oporto	19	5,506	245	42	218,104	——	——	——	——	——	262	1,572	6,498	—	5	5,030	603
Gibraltar	10	429	24	—	17,328	3,971	11,732	79,058	——	——	140	840	9,846	—	25	——	—
Ilha Gracia	1	3	24	—	312	——	——	——	——	——	6	30	——	—	—	372	2
Hamburgh	11	2,716	52	—	109,056	386	1,677	8,758	831	8,001	115	690	1,309	—	115	——	—
Liverpool	36	1,187	10	—	47,539	——	——	——	——	——	30,430	182,580	1,154	—	—	——	—
London	5	689	38	—	27,864	——	——	——	70	1,406	2,168	10,840	853	—	—	——	—
Falmouth	3	981	51	—	39,546	——	——	——	——	——	——	——	——	—	—	——	—
Portsmouth	1	395	25	—	15,975	——	——	——	——	——	——	——	——	—	—	——	—
Guernsey	1	236	4	—	9,472	——	——	——	——	——	——	——	——	—	—	——	—
Amsterdam	3	930	28	—	37,480	109	——	1,526	50	1,050	——	——	——	—	—	——	—
Trieste	1	333	27	—	13,563	——	——	——	——	——	——	——	——	—	—	——	—
Jersey	1	399	4	—	15,980	——	——	——	——	——	——	——	——	—	—	——	—
Geneva	1	——	—	—	——	49	1,623	2,932	——	——	——	——	——	—	—	——	—
Cowes	1	543	35	—	22,000	——	——	——	——	——	——	——	——	—	—	——	—
Stockholm	1	250	—	—	10,000	——	——	——	——	——	——	——	——	—	—	——	—
New York	2	——	—	—	——	——	——	——	—	——	——	——	2,200	387	—	——	—
Baltimore	1	——	—	—	——	——	——	——	—	——	——	——	2,200	60	—	——	—
Philadelphia	2	2	—	—	79	——	——	——	24	504	——	——	2,175	220	—	——	—
Bremen	1	21	—	—	840	——	——	——	120	2,460	53	318	40	110	—	——	—
Salem	8	——	—	—	——	——	——	——	—	——	——	——	9,950	847	—	——	—
Boston	4	——	—	—	——	——	——	——	—	——	——	——	1,263	717	—	——	—
Newport	1	——	—	—	——	——	——	——	—	——	——	——	——	86	—	——	—
Nantz	6	420	5	—	16,830	——	——	——	30	603	541	2,710	3,102	—	—	——	20
Bourdeaux	4	245	7	18	11,012	——	——	——	—	——	1,370	8,220	——	—	—	——	30
Totals	148	25,113	960	60	1,012,001	12,616	15,032	199,427	1968	32,681	36,139	214,124	86,627	2682	182	12,752	910

Seregipe		in the eastern part.
St. Amaro
St. Luzia
Itabaianna
Villa Nova
Propiha		in the western part.
Lagarto
Thomar

COMARCAS.		TOWNS.
Ollinda		Ollinda[38]
		Goyanna
		Iguarassu
		Pau d’ Alho
		Limoeiro.
Recife		Recife
		Serenhen
		St. Antonio
		[370] St. Antao.
Alagoas		Porto Calvo
		Alagoas
		Atalaya
		Anadia
		Maceyo
		Porto de Pedras
		Poxim
		Penedo.

B F	Branco Fino.	Paying a shipping duty of sixty reas per arrobe.
R F	Ridondo Fino.
B R	Branco Ridondo.
R B	Ridondo Branco.
B B	Branco Baixo.
B I	Baixo Inferior.
MM	Muscovado Macho.	Ditto of thirty reas per arrobe.
MR	Muscovado Retame.
MB	Muscovado Brame.

Number of vessels.	Destination.	Cotton.		Rice.		Hides.	Tanned Leather.	Gum.	Farhina, or Flour of Mandioca.	Indian Corn.	Total freight to each Port.		Total value at each Port.
		Bags.	Arrobas.	Bags.	Arrobas.	No.	Pieces.	lbs.	Sacks.	Sacks.			Milreas.	Reas.
25	Lisbon	16,294	88,488	43,212	224,263	5131	32,503	1501	250	——	137,692	250	1,092,498	151
16	Oporto	3,251	18,595	25,037	132,167	1027	6,116	202	—	1389	65,281	854	319,697	590
1	Cape de Verds	14	73	——	——	——	——	——	—	——	——		500	400
1	Antwerp	500	3,040	305	1,666	418	——	——	—	——	4,062	800	28,653	200
1	Surinam	25	157	——	——	712	——	——	—	——	441	800	1,936	600
1	Boston	8	48	——	——	1659	——	——	—	——	435	800	2,013	400
1	Gibraltar	156	780	——	——	——	——	——	—	——	780	000	6,084	000
2	St. Maloes	511	2,976	——	——	420	——	——	—	——	2,823	200	24,236	200
5	Havre de Grace	3,888	21,472	372	1,997	30	——	——	—	——	21,438	200	167,402	100
2	London	1,687	8,835	——	——	——	——	——	—	——	5,985	200	70,046	300
49	Liverpool	47,396	258,329	——	——	——	——	——	—	——	220,576	200	2,069,903	000
104		73,730	402,793	68,926	360,095	9433	38,619	1703	250	1389	459,517	304	3,783,020	941

Ports.	Cotton.		Cost.		Rice.		Cost.
	Bags.	Arrobas.	Milreas.	Reas.	Bags.	Arrobas.	Milreas.	Reas.
Lisbon	16,625	91,074	517,821	500	41,993	220,562	201,039	450
Oporto	2,629	14,212	81,745	500	22,934	116,184	104,074	950
Cape Verde	8	45	238	833
Havre	5,900	31,326	203,052	350
Liverpool	40,291	222,623	1,333,142	354
Total	65,453	359,280	2,136,000	537	64,927	336,746	305,114	400

DISTRICTS.		PRINCIPAL TOWNS.
Para Proper		Belem or Para.
		Braganca.
		Collares.
Xingutania		Villa Vicoza.
		Gurupa.
		Melgaco.
Tapagonia		Santarem.
		Souzel.
		Alter do Chao.
Mundrucania		Villanova da Rainha.
		Borba.
		Villafranca.

1.	Don John VI. and his Attendants	to front the Title	Page
2.	Map of the Brazil	to front	1
3.	View of the Western Side of the Bay of Rio		9
4.	Custom-House Negroes		10
5.	Convent of St. Antonio		52
6.	Convent of St. Theresa, Part of the Aqueduct, and a Sege		53
7.	Convent of Ajuda		54
8.	Pillars and Scenery near the Source of the Aqueduct		56
9.	House at the Bottom of the Orange-Valley		57
10.	A Miner, from the Province of Minas Geraes		61
11.	Bella Fonta, the Shacara of J. E. Wright, Esq.		62
12.	Palace of St. Christovao		63
13.	A free Negress, and other Market-Women		71
14.	Nightman, Water-Carrier, Washerwoman		74
15.	The Casa of a Padre, in Campinha		85
16.	The Rio Exchange, Trapiche, Grass-Waggon, and Gallows		96
17.	A Captain of Militia, in the Province of Rio Grande do Sul		116
18.	A Paulista and a Brazilian Mendicant		176
19.	A Map of the Comarca of Sabara		277
20.	An Officer of Cavalry, in Minas Geraes, and a Hermit		283
21.	Botocudo Indians about to cross a River		299
22.	A Brazilian Sedan-Chair, and a Person begging for the Church		336
23.	A Brazilian Sesta, or Afternoon Nap		346
24.	A Jangada, or Catamaran, near Pernambuco		357
25.	A Mattuto returning from Pernambuco		385
26.	Style of Houses at Poço de Penella		388
27.	Negroes impelling a Canoe with the Vara, and Scenery at Ponta de Cho		389
28.	The House of the Senhor d’ Engenho de Torre, near Pernambuco		391
29.	The Sugar Engenho de Torre, and a Plan of its Interior		392
30.	The Site and Remains of Fribourg-House, formerly the Residence of Prince Maurice, of Nassau		393

The Project Gutenberg eBook of A history of the Brazil

A HISTORY OF THE BRAZIL;

NOTICE TO THE READER.

CONTENTS.

LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.

CHAPTER I. Voyage from England to Rio de Janeiro.

CHAP. II.

CHAP. III. PROVINCE OF RIO DE JANEIRO.

CHAP. IV. PROVINCE OF RIO DE JANEIRO—continued.

CHAP. V. PROVINCE OF RIO GRANDE DO SUL.

CHAP. VI. PROVINCE OF PARANNA.

CHAP. VII. PROVINCE OF URUGUAY.

CHAP. VIII. PROVINCE OF ST. CATHARINA.

CHAP. IX. PROVINCE OF ST. PAULO.

CHAP. X. PROVINCE OF MATTO GROSSO.

District of Camapuania.

District of Matto Grosso.

District of Cuiaba.

District of Bororonia.

District of Juruenna.

District of Arinos.

District of Tappiraquia.

CHAP. XI. PROVINCE OF GOYAZ.

District of Cayaponia.

District of Goyaz.

District of Nova Beira.

District of Tucantines.

District of Parannan.

District of Rio das Velhas.

CHAP. XII. PROVINCE OF MINAS GERAES.

Comarca of Villa Rica.

Comarca of Rio das Mortes.

Comarca of Sabara.

Comarca of Serro Frio.

CHAP. XIII. PROVINCE OF ESPIRITO SANTO.

CHAP. XIV. PROVINCE OF PORTO SEGURO.

CHAP. XV. PROVINCE OF BAHIA.

Comarca of the Ilheos.

Comarca of Jacobina.

Comarca of Bahia.

CHAP. XVI. PROVINCE OF SEREGIPE D’EL REY.

CHAP. XVII. PROVINCE OF PERNAMBUCO.

CHAP. XVIII. PROVINCE OF PARAHIBA.

CHAP. XIX. PROVINCE OF RIO GRANDE DO NORTE.[43]

CHAP. XX. PROVINCE OF SIARA.

CHAP. XXI. PROVINCE OF PIAUHY.

CHAP. XXII. PROVINCE OF MARANHAM.

CHAP. XXIII. PROVINCE OF PARA.

District of Para.

District of Xingutania.

District of Tapajonia.

District of Mundrucania.

CHAP. XXIV. PROVINCE OF SOLIMOES.

District of Puru.

District of Coary.

District of Teffe.

District of Hyurba.

District of Hyutahy.

District of Hyabary.

CHAP. XXV. PROVINCE OF GUIANNA.

CHAP. XXVI.

APPENDIX.

ZOOLOGY.

WILD QUADRUPEDS.

PHYTOLOGY.

FOOTNOTES:

THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE

A
HISTORY
OF
THE BRAZIL;

CHAPTER I.
Voyage from England to Rio de Janeiro.

CHAP. III.
PROVINCE OF RIO DE JANEIRO.

CHAP. IV.
PROVINCE OF RIO DE JANEIRO—continued.

CHAP. V.
PROVINCE OF RIO GRANDE DO SUL.

CHAP. VI.
PROVINCE OF PARANNA.

CHAP. VII.
PROVINCE OF URUGUAY.

CHAP. VIII.
PROVINCE OF ST. CATHARINA.

CHAP. IX.
PROVINCE OF ST. PAULO.

CHAP. X.
PROVINCE OF MATTO GROSSO.

CHAP. XI.
PROVINCE OF GOYAZ.

CHAP. XII.
PROVINCE OF MINAS GERAES.

CHAP. XIII.
PROVINCE OF ESPIRITO SANTO.

CHAP. XIV.
PROVINCE OF PORTO SEGURO.

CHAP. XV.
PROVINCE OF BAHIA.

CHAP. XVI.
PROVINCE OF SEREGIPE D’EL REY.

CHAP. XVII.
PROVINCE OF PERNAMBUCO.

CHAP. XVIII.
PROVINCE OF PARAHIBA.

CHAP. XIX.
PROVINCE OF RIO GRANDE DO NORTE.[43]

CHAP. XX.
PROVINCE OF SIARA.

CHAP. XXI.
PROVINCE OF PIAUHY.

CHAP. XXII.
PROVINCE OF MARANHAM.

CHAP. XXIII.
PROVINCE OF PARA.

CHAP. XXIV.
PROVINCE OF SOLIMOES.

CHAP. XXV.
PROVINCE OF GUIANNA.